Something I forgot to add I think most of the trouble with the electronic ignition kits is they're not as forgiving of worn out distributor shafts and my biggest problem with them is they have to be ordered and all our customers need it running yesterday or sooner
Hey thanks for simple clear explanation on servicing the ignition system. just restarted process of restoring my 51' Super A. Was running rough when I decided to tear it all down and start restoration. That was 10 years ago. I disassembled it to about 50%. Then had some lifestyle changes that put it on hold. So now I'm back at it. Its got original 6 volt system. I want to keep it that way and would like your opinion on that. My biggest intent with the tractor is to tend a little garden and Maby ride it in a parade sometime.
Just subscribed. Yes I still use points. We have several Tractors. mostly farmalls. We just posted a video of our Super A Mowing with a belly mower. We also talk about resistors , air cleaners ,plug wires and spark plugs.
Thanks for sharing Chris and good talking to you this morning. What I love about those old gems is they are simple to work on. Back then they were made so anyone with any mechanic skills could get it running. Many blessings to you both.
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay One thing I never got to do was pick corn with the 2 row mounted New Idea picker on a M . I wish I could have done that once but I was always told it was to dangerous .
@@AaricHale we never had one of those , MF self propelled 2 row combines were what we ran . But we had one row snappers for making cow feed pulled it with one of these
Hey Chris im still restoring my super A and rebuilt the distributer. im keeping the 6 volt system. im having trouble understanding the timing procedure. Got an IT Shop manual and operators manual. Both give complete instruction on timing but Im still missing some part of the concept. If I could just see it done one time then I believe I could get it. I wish you could do a video specifically on how to time a 6 volt battery ignition on Super A.
Good tips and progress Chris. Those with knowledge of the older tractors are dwindling fast! Around here nearly all the small tractor mechanics are gone ☹️
I'm really the only one left around here apparently , they bring them here from a hundred miles away and I do a lot of older tractors for the dealerships red and green . I work on the big stuff on site and take in a project or two at the shop
Great vids. I have a MF35 Massey Ferguson and need info on rewiring the points, ignition, coil and the little ceramic block. It was wired previously by someone else and the ceramic block was bypassed. If it is needed then I would like to wire it correctly. Any info would be appreciated
Depends on the coil if it says 12 volt internal resistor it doesn't use the ceramic one but the external resistor coil and ceramic resistor work better . Hot from switch to plus side , minus to the distributor and if you use it the resistor goes in-between the coil and switch . Someone probably changed the coil at some point or the resistor is bad and bypassed
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I don't hate computers (because I CONTROL them) but never did like fuel injection. Give me a Holley 4bbl (or even a Rochester)!
That's about the way it happens around here too , I convert 8 or 10 back to points a year . EI sounds like the best idea in the world but for some reason it just isn't reliable
Just one tip....Chinese condensers can be bad right out of the box. If you swap out your points and condenser from a running tractor and it will no longer fire, put the old condenser back in. Solves the problem 99% of the time. Hope this helps.....~Eli.
Love that gantry and hoist you have in the background...thieves stole our hoist and heavy chain! You make that work look easy, Chris. I think both Phillips and straight screws ought to be replaced by Torx/star screws. The don't 'booger up' as easily. Farmall Fanatic recommends NOT changing to electronic ignition. This looks like a fun project!
I took a EI set out of a truck like yours this morning and put points back in it . Another shop converted it last week I guess because they didn't know how to set points , so I had to go convert it back beside the road with a load of tobacco plants getting too hot. I hate a thief sorry y'all had to deal with that
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Okay, so if we were to convert Dyna from a generator to an alternator, besides the alternator and bracket, what else do you recommend? I think there is already a resistor on it somewhere near the ignition. Should we even bother buying an internally-resisted coil? Will it matter with an external resistor on it anyway?
Lol I don't know about fun , it belongs to a friend of mine and he's not in a hurry for it so we can do some videos on it . Most of the time on customers tractors where we are charging them by the hour it's not conducive with doing videos , its get them back working fast as possible
I have a super a that needs a 12 v system put on and get back to running. I’m from around the Monroe Nc area. I saw the video on working on super a distributor. Could you tell me were you are located in eastern Nc and how to get in touch. Thanks
Good video here Chris.. I’m sure lots of people will end up benefiting from it for sure! Man them things spin over faster when converted to 12 volt! Haha
Check the gap on the points it's easy to get wrong and sometimes they move on you . I get a fair number of bad condensers and an occasional bad set of points
If it's a factory push/pull switch it only has two maybe three and it really doesn't matter one has constant power others are ingnition ,if it's an aftermarket key switch it's the one marked ING for ingnition
Take out number one plug and get the piston on top dead center then point the rotor button to the number one on the cap ( mark distributor body ) and slide it in . I always set it by ear , an easy way is to advance it until the starter drags just a little with the engine good and warm then back it up until it cranks . Just make sure it takes the throttle fine
Can you give me the numbers on that resister and coil from dodge.I've had problems with coils.ordered internal resistor coil.if it goes bad I will have to change to external resistor and different coil .great video
It's a RU11 resister and you're supposed to use a 6 volt external resister coil but we have to use a 12 volt external resisted or they give trouble if you run the tractor all day .remember that resister will get HOT , I ether mount them under a coil hold down bolt or on the back of the head under the fuel tank bolt. Some of the trouble is low quality parts especially 6 volt stuff used to hold up to a few extra volts now it just won't
Hi their great videos ,have 51 farmall model m , ran ok for a while, sat for a while got it running seems like it was getting spark , like I would try to start but will die immediately, bought ignition coil fix the issue ran fine for a bit then starting doing it again were wont start again tries bit dies, kind of suspected the coil whent bad and getting no spark , tested coil and I'm getting power to both (+) & (-) of ignition coil now has me thinking might be bad or can be the condenser not grouding out and points wont spark ? What do you think ? Thank you for your advise
Bad new parts are common , I'd clean and adjust or replace the points and condenser . Then you can break the points ( have to be closed ) and then you can check the coil like I did in the video . Might be as simple as the gap in the points closed up on you . If it doesn't have a resister points and coils can burn up in an hour of running . If it's 12 volt make sure negative sides going to the points
Thanks you for the advice for to mention its on 6v system but im using 12v battery , also not sure if it positive/ ground system but when i bought tractor has negative to ground and possibly to starter , been running like that with 12v battery had a feeling i burned something up ethier points or ignition system also will not charge battery so might issue their with the voltage regulator , not sure how to check points or adjust them also where would the resistor be wired
@@MrSehka77 yep that's what happened go to our about page and send me a email and I'll talk you through it . Take most of a day and a couple hundred bucks in parts but it happens a lot
When you pull the rod it slides a copper plate into the lug on the switch and the top of the starter , really similar to the foot starter switch on old automobiles
They're bad out the box about half the time , make sure it's wired right and you have power and that the distributor shaft is turning if that's good you got a bad one . I quit putting the kits in because of the unreliability and we change a lot back to points that other people converted . If you keep having trouble let me know
@@morgangroce2521 its not supposed too , but the negative side goes to the EI . A resister might help If you get it going , I can't stress enough that those things can be bad when you get them especially the cheaper kits sometimes they work a little while . The other shop in town puts them in then a few days later I'm converting it back in the middle of the field
Something I forgot to add I think most of the trouble with the electronic ignition kits is they're not as forgiving of worn out distributor shafts and my biggest problem with them is they have to be ordered and all our customers need it running yesterday or sooner
Hey thanks for simple clear explanation on servicing the ignition system. just restarted process of restoring my 51' Super A. Was running rough when I decided to tear it all down and start restoration. That was 10 years ago. I disassembled it to about 50%. Then had some lifestyle changes that put it on hold. So now I'm back at it. Its got original 6 volt system. I want to keep it that way and would like your opinion on that. My biggest intent with the tractor is to tend a little garden and Maby ride it in a parade sometime.
If you're intending to use it much I would recommend converting to 12 volt it'll save so much hassle.
Just subscribed. Yes I still use points. We have several Tractors. mostly farmalls. We just posted a video of our Super A Mowing with a belly mower. We also talk about resistors , air cleaners ,plug wires and spark plugs.
We'll be doing a live on Friday nights , you ought to come on it would get your name out a little
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Thank you for subscribing and the invite. Our internet is real poor so I dont know if we can come on it.
Thanks for sharing Chris and good talking to you this morning. What I love about those old gems is they are simple to work on. Back then they were made so anyone with any mechanic skills could get it running. Many blessings to you both.
They built things to be repairable not replaced !
Lot's of great info ! I love these old Farmalls . The first tractor I got left by myself in the field was a Farmall C cultipacking at like 8 or 9 .
With me it was a 400 farmall cutting tobacco stalks and a 140 plowing !
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay One thing I never got to do was pick corn with the 2 row mounted New Idea picker on a M . I wish I could have done that once but I was always told it was to dangerous .
@@AaricHale we never had one of those , MF self propelled 2 row combines were what we ran . But we had one row snappers for making cow feed pulled it with one of these
Hey Chris im still restoring my super A and rebuilt the distributer. im keeping the 6 volt system. im having trouble understanding the timing procedure. Got an IT Shop manual and operators manual. Both give complete instruction on timing but Im still missing some part of the concept. If I could just see it done one time then I believe I could get it. I wish you could do a video specifically on how to time a 6 volt battery ignition on Super A.
Email me your phone number and I'll talk you through it . It seems complicated in the books but it's not that bad
homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com
Good tips and progress Chris. Those with knowledge of the older tractors are dwindling fast! Around here nearly all the small tractor mechanics are gone ☹️
I'm really the only one left around here apparently , they bring them here from a hundred miles away and I do a lot of older tractors for the dealerships red and green . I work on the big stuff on site and take in a project or two at the shop
Great vids. I have a MF35 Massey Ferguson and need info on rewiring the points, ignition, coil and the little ceramic block. It was wired previously by someone else and the ceramic block was bypassed. If it is needed then I would like to wire it correctly. Any info would be appreciated
Depends on the coil if it says 12 volt internal resistor it doesn't use the ceramic one but the external resistor coil and ceramic resistor work better . Hot from switch to plus side , minus to the distributor and if you use it the resistor goes in-between the coil and switch . Someone probably changed the coil at some point or the resistor is bad and bypassed
I like that trick for checking the coil by opening the points! That may come in handy if I ever get my old Vette back on the road!
Hope it helps , people now days are scared of points . I think because they don't know how they work and miss simple problems
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Personally, I prefer points & condenser. But then, I grew up with them.
@@geekygardens I think that's me too honestly , I hate computers and fuel injection for the same reason
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I don't hate computers (because I CONTROL them) but never did like fuel injection. Give me a Holley 4bbl (or even a Rochester)!
@@geekygardensI'm a holly man myself !
I had electronic on 3 farmalls and they all went out at the same time. I switched back to points. Spent some cash on that deal!
That's about the way it happens around here too , I convert 8 or 10 back to points a year . EI sounds like the best idea in the world but for some reason it just isn't reliable
Just one tip....Chinese condensers can be bad right out of the box. If you swap out your points and condenser from a running tractor and it will no longer fire, put the old condenser back in. Solves the problem 99% of the time. Hope this helps.....~Eli.
That's very true I get bad ones regularly ! I started leaving the old one in if the points are just burnt up / worn
great info Chris and lots of it, I really enjoyed this video and I know I am going to love this series.
Wish I knew how to film it better , its hard to see what's going on . But I'm glad to hear that and I hope it helps some people
Love that gantry and hoist you have in the background...thieves stole our hoist and heavy chain! You make that work look easy, Chris. I think both Phillips and straight screws ought to be replaced by Torx/star screws. The don't 'booger up' as easily. Farmall Fanatic recommends NOT changing to electronic ignition. This looks like a fun project!
I took a EI set out of a truck like yours this morning and put points back in it . Another shop converted it last week I guess because they didn't know how to set points , so I had to go convert it back beside the road with a load of tobacco plants getting too hot. I hate a thief sorry y'all had to deal with that
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay Okay, so if we were to convert Dyna from a generator to an alternator, besides the alternator and bracket, what else do you recommend? I think there is already a resistor on it somewhere near the ignition. Should we even bother buying an internally-resisted coil? Will it matter with an external resistor on it anyway?
@@contentment164 if its 12 volt now , it's super easy move two wires and add a diode .give me a call and i'll walk you through it
Looks like your having fun with the little Farmall...
Lol I don't know about fun , it belongs to a friend of mine and he's not in a hurry for it so we can do some videos on it . Most of the time on customers tractors where we are charging them by the hour it's not conducive with doing videos , its get them back working fast as possible
I have a super a that needs a 12 v system put on and get back to running. I’m from around the Monroe Nc area. I saw the video on working on super a distributor. Could you tell me were you are located in eastern Nc and how to get in touch. Thanks
We're in Lagrange. homesteadingthehardway@gmail.com
Good video here Chris.. I’m sure lots of people will end up benefiting from it for sure! Man them things spin over faster when converted to 12 volt! Haha
They shure do !
Have a early 140, changed everything ignition. No spark, could it be the condenser even though it is new?? At a loss at this point!!
Check the gap on the points it's easy to get wrong and sometimes they move on you . I get a fair number of bad condensers and an occasional bad set of points
Thanks, I'll try that
Very helpful video. Thanks.
Glad to hear that!
What terminal on the ignition switch is for coil
If it's a factory push/pull switch it only has two maybe three and it really doesn't matter one has constant power others are ingnition ,if it's an aftermarket key switch it's the one marked ING for ingnition
How to set timing . if the dis. Has been out. What is coil .and resister number.
Take out number one plug and get the piston on top dead center then point the rotor button to the number one on the cap ( mark distributor body ) and slide it in . I always set it by ear , an easy way is to advance it until the starter drags just a little with the engine good and warm then back it up until it cranks . Just make sure it takes the throttle fine
RU11 resistor, don't remember the coil we use but it's 12 volt external resistor female end
Can you give me the numbers on that resister and coil from dodge.I've had problems with coils.ordered internal resistor coil.if it goes bad I will have to change to external resistor and different coil .great video
It's a RU11 resister and you're supposed to use a 6 volt external resister coil but we have to use a 12 volt external resisted or they give trouble if you run the tractor all day .remember that resister will get HOT , I ether mount them under a coil hold down bolt or on the back of the head under the fuel tank bolt. Some of the trouble is low quality parts especially 6 volt stuff used to hold up to a few extra volts now it just won't
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay thank you so much for the information.
Do you rebuild and re sleeve super a tractors
Just about everyone of them has the block cracked and needs master sleeves. I usually have that done and skip the factory sleeves
Hi their great videos ,have 51 farmall model m , ran ok for a while, sat for a while got it running seems like it was getting spark , like I would try to start but will die immediately, bought ignition coil fix the issue ran fine for a bit then starting doing it again were wont start again tries bit dies, kind of suspected the coil whent bad and getting no spark , tested coil and I'm getting power to both (+) & (-) of ignition coil now has me thinking might be bad or can be the condenser not grouding out and points wont spark ? What do you think ? Thank you for your advise
Bad new parts are common , I'd clean and adjust or replace the points and condenser . Then you can break the points ( have to be closed ) and then you can check the coil like I did in the video . Might be as simple as the gap in the points closed up on you . If it doesn't have a resister points and coils can burn up in an hour of running . If it's 12 volt make sure negative sides going to the points
Thanks you for the advice for to mention its on 6v system but im using 12v battery , also not sure if it positive/ ground system but when i bought tractor has negative to ground and possibly to starter , been running like that with 12v battery had a feeling i burned something up ethier points or ignition system also will not charge battery so might issue their with the voltage regulator , not sure how to check points or adjust them also where would the resistor be wired
@@MrSehka77 yep that's what happened go to our about page and send me a email and I'll talk you through it . Take most of a day and a couple hundred bucks in parts but it happens a lot
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay ok which page in here or do you have a website ? Also Don't see and email addres thank you
@@MrSehka77 go to the channel and it's on the about page in the description
How does the switch on top of the starter work?super a
When you pull the rod it slides a copper plate into the lug on the switch and the top of the starter , really similar to the foot starter switch on old automobiles
I've got a Farmall m and I took the points out and put electronic ignition in it and I'm not getting any fire I need help
They're bad out the box about half the time , make sure it's wired right and you have power and that the distributor shaft is turning if that's good you got a bad one . I quit putting the kits in because of the unreliability and we change a lot back to points that other people converted . If you keep having trouble let me know
@@HomesteadingtheHardWay I found out that I'm running a 6 v coil and not a 12-volt does that matter
@@morgangroce2521 its not supposed too , but the negative side goes to the EI . A resister might help If you get it going , I can't stress enough that those things can be bad when you get them especially the cheaper kits sometimes they work a little while . The other shop in town puts them in then a few days later I'm converting it back in the middle of the field
Hi
Hi mason !
Hello I have a farm all don’t know what year model and if it’s a A are super A # 325681
1540 if you could help me out here thanks in advance
J