Great video William. As a new knife maker, l've come to watch your videos before trying something new. I've only made three knives so far, all completely hand made with hack saw, files, and sand paper (and a drill press) . The 01 steel just works out better for me. Thank you for sharing!
I've had an O1 knife from a well known Knife maker and another O1 knife from a one man shop who does his own heat treat. The knife from the one man shop was much more impact resistant than the other. I like your videos.
2 of my most used outdoors knives are in your O1 and Peter's 3v from a different maker ground very differently. So, it's difficult to get a 1:1 comparison. However, what I've seen anecdotally is that the real difference is not abrasion resistance, but edge stability under very hard use (bordering on what some may call abuse). The O1 has surprising toughness and the edge will roll or deform instead of chipping, but the 3v is just incredibly stable and resistant to any type of deformation even under high impact and prying. So if the knife is going to be used just to cut and slice I think O1 wins for having comparible edge retention with better value and sharpenability. But, if the knife is going to be whacked and pounded and pryed with and twisted, I think that's where you start to see some return on investment in 3v. Also my experience is similar in that it seems more stainless than semi-stainless in terms of corrosion /rust resistance.
I'm an O1 fan....glad to see that it holds up well in your test. Wet hide seems to be the worse thing that dulls my knifes....but I've found that in the field sharpening is easier with O1 than with my few stainless knives.
Awesome video man. One thing I’ve noticed with the A2 blades from LTWK that are Cyro treated at Peters, they don’t rust or patina near as fast or bad as other companies that I’ve tested A2 with that weren’t cyro treated. Not sure what the treatment is exactly but I think it does help it from tarnishing and corroding as fast.
And to be honest I was hesitant to post this video thinking I got the steels mixed up somehow with a stainless but that was impossible because I didn't have any stainless with that batch of knives. So I did the internet search to see if others were seeing the same thing and they are as well.
According to Mike Stewart at BRK Cold Steels infamous Carbon V was manufactured by Sharon Steel and HT and cryotreated ...I'm pretty sure by Camillus. I spoke to Mike over this issue as I have used CS carbon V for years and never has it failed...it does rust and patina far slower than commonly available 01 with normal treatments. Cryo just makes the right steel a better steel.
it probably results in more even distribution of chromium. One of the things that decreases the corrosion resistance in stainless alloy is holding the steel at a temp that causes the chromium to migrate to the edge of grains (or something like that). The treatment schedules generally say to avoid temps between 800F and 1400F because of that - either hot or not
Great job Mr Collins! I loved the handle material you used on those, both did great to. 👍 keep the epicness coming, u make some good blades and videos.
Awesome test William! There really is an art to heat treat. I have had different knives with the same steel, same grinds and one performed way better than the other. The knives you tested have a very interesting shape. I usually stay away from non traditional blade shapes but one of yours I would try. Great video brother.
Damn I love you and my O1. My O1 held up against S30V ht by Peters and not one failure, the S30V broke twice from using a torch to check and straighten.
Edge retention is about the same. The big difference with 3v is chip and impact resistance. 3v is quite superior in that regard. But if you're not buttoning every day with it, it's not worth a $50 increase in knife price.
Great test William! From my understanding, 3V is supposed to be stronger than O1 etc. which allows makers to produce thinner blades and edges with the same strength as other steels. It would be interesting to see a test of that hypothesis.
That is a argument for 3V but my O1 full flats at the secondary apex are about .020. Don't think you can get much thinner than that. See this video on blade thicknesses. 26 14:06 Knife Edge Apex, My Thoughts William Collins
Thanks brother. I agree O-1 is great stuff and I would never be worried about only having it in the field. Most of my stuff is O-1 right now. I think the big hype about 3V is the idea that it can withstand abuse better than O-1 at thinner edge geometry. For instance if you pounded identical blade geometries in O-1 and 3V through some pine knots, the 3V is "supposed" to handle it better than the O-1 as far as chipping, rolling, denting etc. 3V is supposed to allow you to grind super thin edges that will handle damage better than full carbon steels. Personally I haven't tested this but it might be worth trying that out as well. Honestly, I think it will really come down to heat treatment in the end and there is a limit to thinness no matter the steel and what ends up being practical.
I appreciate your honesty, as a knifemaker. For me use determines steel choice, and CPM 3V is very tough--less prone to chipping. I slash vines, cut small saplings, and chop limbs, etc. Sometimes I hit a rock beneath the dirt surface, so my ESEE 1095 steel chips. I have fixed it, but I am hoping the CPM 3V is less prone to chipping, as it is rated tougher. 3V is not as good at edge retention as CPM S90v, Elmax, or M390, which I have, but 3v is not bad in edge retention and I am more concerned with chipping than edge retention. Corrosion has never been an issue since I just clean my knives regularly. The question remains too, how much is it worth to the buyer to get 3v steel over say 01? That will likely vary person to person, but you offer the choice. What more can you do? Good video.
CPM3V 0.80% Carbon 7.50% Chromium 2.75% Vanadium 1.30% Molybdenum 01 Tool Steel Carbon 0.95% Manganese 1.25% Chromium 0.50% Tungsten 0.50% Vanadium 0.20% As you can see the CPM 3V has a 7% higher chromium content which could well account for the difference in stain resistance.
I have both Cold steel kukri in O-1 and about 7-8 cold steel knives in cpm 3v and i've noticed that it is very easy to put the edge on O-1 but 3v has a little more clean edge
Thank you I always learn something when I watch your videos. At the moment I don't have one of your knives. It's just a little out of my budget. But when I do get the money I will be getting one of your knives for sure. Thanks again keep it up.
There is a recent video on Dutch Bushcraft Knife on testing a knife made of O1. It could not hold an edge compare to 'super steel' like M7 or 4V, But it was easiest to sharpen.
Yea he commented on this video too as if he could speak for all O1 steel. Just like anything else there is different quality standards. Just because one O1 doesn't hold its own doesn't mean that O1 is bad or inferior. Just that the heat treat isn't where it should be. If your not getting 61 - 62 RC on your O1 then your not achieving its potential and not many makers push that limit.
William Collins hello sir. Your knife in 01 kicks ass. Plain and simple. The Dutch bushcraft knives channel that tested the 01 knife that didn’t hold up is a different Dutch bushcraft then the jack ass commenting on your O1 as if all 01 are equal. Just wanted to let you know. Thanks and god bless
Great Work William!!! I Have To Say I Was Gutted When Stripping Some Thistles For the Horses With CPM 3V There Was Some Kind Of Rapid Galvanic Corrosion and The Tannins Ate Into the Edge in less than 10 Mins!!! The Rest of the Blade Was Stain Free!? Im Guessing as good as 3v is This odd Deep Pitting Corrosion is Why Many Makers Dont Use it!? Mora carbon steel just got an even Patina for Comparison!.
Gotta say you make a beautiful knife. Maybe one day I can save up enough to get one. That would be one useful knife on my loop around America trying to make Alaska then go South America down one side up the other. So every dollar I have right now is going to making the van capable. It’s a 2007 Chevy so hopefully by the end of this summer the adventure begins.
I realize that im super late to the party here however, all steels have strengths and weaknesses. You could say well why dont you just do an apples to apples comparison. And run both the 3v and the 01 to say 59-60 hrc. But youd be missing the point. 01 can be run higher so that it can hold an edge as well or slightly longer than 3v. Will it hold a candle to how tough 3v is? No of course not. But you pick your hrc and heat treat and steel based on what you want the knife to do. You want stainlessness over all else? Go h1? You want toughness over all else s7 would be great... you want a decent mix of ease of sharpening, edge holding and toughness 01 is not a bad choice.
nerv 102 agreed but for stainless I prefer AEB-L with my proprietary heat treat in house. 3v is tougher for side to side pressure but I don’t need a pry at for a knife. I prefer cutting. Appreciate your view and thoughts.
@@wcknives I definitely think you know what youre doing, my comment was aimed more at the other people lol. But thanks for making some great quality knives and doing what you do.
This vid has me left with more questions but can’t really sort them out. The #1 deal is I sort you out,own 2 of your blades. MW 01&fur and scale edc necker s35vn. No reason for me to have doubts of living the woodsman life or which tools work coming from you. So as anything in the market goes,price is placed on demand. If I buy tums for my heartburn I chew the same amount as the store brand and I’m good. Knife community tends to turn right all in sequence. Well except those like yourself who are honest about what works well and advise strongly to stay the course. True not all heat treat is equal so it’s a good idea to make those lefts every so often.
Id love to see a continued test with cardboard or rope of the same two knives and see how many cuts it takes until they can't easily slice paper... But heat treat is definitely a major factor, I've seen O1 from a certain maker that is more corrosion resistant than most stainless steels because of the awesome heat treat... Id agree that most people probably won't use the knives enough to notice a difference between the two steels but I'd be willing to bet that if the test continued until they were both dull that there would be a clear winner at least by a little bit. (Probably not enough to make up for the $150 price difference though)
I have did a cardboard slice test with my O1 to over 150 slices and it would still shave. There is a video of this on my channel. If I have the time some day I may try this with 3v but everyone is welcome to do their own test against those standards until then;-). Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I remember on a forum I destruction tested an O1 knife with unbelievable results, battoning bricks and blocks with 22oz hammer to the spine and so on. All the snobby knife collectors and steel snobs had no comment at all lol. They don't want to believe a knife I made for about $30 was just as good as their $300 in actual use.
Peters uses heat to straighten your heat treated blade. Think that's good for it? #3V has 7% chrome so it's going to hold off on rusting for awhile, but not around seawater.
Mountain Fisher I heat everything in house now but still not sure sure of your point. Most heat treat recommendation is the aneal before heat treat. Thanks for sharing your methods but really happy with my results as is my customers.
@@wcknives Peters will take a torch to unwarp a ht part. That caused two of my S30V knives to break from flexing. Not a single one of my O1 knives ever broke from flexing at hRC 60-61. I don't have the capability to HT S30V properly. Oven won't do it.
I would be interested in seeing one of yours in 440 c do a cutting test, no reason on paper that it would be worse than cpm 154, in fact as it has more chrome it should hold its edge better!
Honest question... Could this be a testament to your grind..? I know that the quality of the steel and the heat treatment are huge factors in edge retention, but as a chef and an outdoorsman, I've used plenty of knives from all ends of the quality spectrum... I've used some super cheap knives that surprised me by almost never needing more than a touch up, and I've had some expensive blades were nothing short of disappointing. The hogstooth I got from you continues to impress me and paired with this video, I can't help but wonder if craftsmanship is the deciding factor...
Grinds were the same so the grind wasn't a factor between these two knives. Appreciate your view and comment. Craftsmanship could be the factor but the same test between the same two steels could be done with other fabricators to see if they have different results.
AHHHHH Ok. Could be but I think a lesser quality steel or heat treat would have shown a difference is edge retention no matter the grind geometry. JMHO!
If your doing edge retention test's and make it as fair as possible... I would get some strong thick rope like manila hemp that's at least 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick and cut in the same part of the blade. I know using cardboard is easy and abundant for you but you'll be cutting that forever! xD I love your videos! I want a knife so bad from you but on my college student budget I dont think I'll have enough for years. So, I'm thinking on making my own O1 steel knife similar to your WCSK. I wish you had a video on how to heat treat and temper O1 steel because you are the best at it. I'm not asking to leak your trade secrets but just a basic tutorial on how not to fuck up your steel.. lol
IcyS appreciate your view and comment. Heat treat is contingent on many things and I explain why I don’t give out that in a video call “why some things are secret” and also give advise on how to heat treat.
Exactly, you'll need to cut hundreds to thousands of feet of cardboard (steel dependant) to notice difference in wear resistance. I filled up more than half of my recycling barrel with cardboard testing m390 and it still shaved. Filled it almost full testing s110v and it still catches a few hairs. 3v has better wear resistance(close to s30v, heat treat depending), higher toughness and better corrosion resistance than O1. But it's more expensive, harder to hear treat and harder(takes longer) to sharpen than O1. Have folders, small fixed blades and choppers in both and I think both are great steels and are some of my favorites.
Nice one William, it amuses me when all the latest greatest super steels don’t seem to be any better than good old O1, have you tried cryogenic treatment on O1, you mentioned that you were going to, also have you ever made blades out of 440 c, that’s a steel that I think is underrated, but given that it’s a tool steel, should actually be very good.
yes I have had Peter's cryo treat a couple O1 large blades but they were customers so I haven't personally used one yet. 440C is a good hight carbon stainless for sure.
Nathaniel Barron thanks, very easy. The scandi bevel is the same from the handle to the tip. Here is a playlist on the grind and design. There are several videos on sharpening. ua-cam.com/play/PLlbS3ilO_URopS8TR9zyYZFOzE2ZuHV6W.html
William Collins If I can get lucky enough to catch the batch I'm on it! Nothing but good words is what I've heard. The 18th, right? What time will you push the release button. 👍
Ill take O1 all day every day. I carry a falknivin dc3 in my picket so when my knife gets dull i sharpen it. I think cpm 3v has some vanadium in it. I think its semi stainless like D2
Vincent Flauto appreciate your interest but had to stop customs in 2018. Just done have the time. There are customs offered on my website as well as production models and I have three dealers. Visit my website www.wcknives.com for more information . There is a video on the home page if you need help navigating the site or have other questions.
Hi i am a noob when comes to steel but having a few blades of the cpm 3v and the o1 steel, can i say that they also depend a lot on how well both steels are being treated?
William Collins Thanks for your comment which given me more knowledge in steel which also helps whenever i purchase a new blade with so many kinds of steel in the market (only able to watch youtuber reviews). So i guess i am pretty right as in eg. "a" company produce a blade of cpm 3v may not be as strong as "b" company's cpm 3v, right? Thanks bro for your enlightenment
Keith Sim yes and the same with all steels. Peter's, who I used for the 3v in this video, is a leader in the industry and most of the larger knife shops, LT Write and BHK just to name a couple, use them for all of their heat treating and they do a great job. My argument is that in day to day use I have not seen a difference between a reputable heat treated 3v and my heat treated O1. You can probably see a difference in lab test but not day to day use.
I guess u may not like what i am collecting lol...cold steel products. I like their products for several reasons, strict law over my country, so i rarely even have the need or able to use the blades but as a collector i want the best looking and quality of blades (personal preference) but i dont like their marketing strategy which i assume many hated that big time. I visited their website on types of steels. They all written as the best, so which is the best? Lol..if i am rich enough, i will purchase 2 same blades of different steels from them and have a blade vs blade knockout to see which will kill which....lol
Performance of o1 = the knife maker's ht skill. People stating that this steel is the easiest to work with have at best the basic knowledge of ht procedure. Most of the time they just wasting good material. Treat it right and it will outperform many of the "supasteels".
Say Heah William, I find the 3V DOESN'T rust as much, but it pits. But be glad there's steel choices, because if O1 was the blade sreel and everybody had one, they wouldn't have to buy but one knife.,,.p
O1 is an acceptable steel in dry conditions. Like all steels the heat treatment has to be good. But O1 is not some supersteel although most Americans think so. There are no O1 diver knives for a reason.
Dutch Bushcraft Appreciate your thoughts. However, this was a comparison between a high carbon super steel, as you called it and a high carbon O1 and neither one are considered as dive knives. This was a edge test and the O1 heat treated in my shop held its own with the super steel and that is what this video was about. In the video I explain that corosion is an issue with both steels, perhaps you missed that or didn't watch the video.
I was talking more in general. I'm not talking about your knife or craftsmanship specific, because I don't have any of your knives. I've tested many knifes and still are and that also includes O1 steel ones from well respected American knife makers. I test and compare more carbon steels, like 1095, sk5, D2, L6, along with the more rust resistant ones, from Sandvik to Elmax. In the US it is hard to find a bush knife that is not made from O1 and over here it is difficult to find one in O1, mostly because of the taxes we pay when importing from the US and few European knife makers use O1. Most beginning knife makers do use it because it is easy to work with. I am not saying that O1 is no good. Absolutely not. But 3V is more rust resistant than O1 but they will both rust eventually. Maybe it is our wet and moist climate why people are more likely to choose a different steel. ;)
I live in a swamp and it doesn't get much wetter than that. I have used O1 for many years now in that swamp and have no issues with corrosion. Not sure about knife makers in the US primarily using O1 I see lots of makers at the Atlanta Blade show last year and most were using the super steels as you called them. O1 is not the easiest steel to work with either, not sure where you heard that. It is a bit more forgiving than some steels if your OK with an average heat treat but not if your after the optimum heat treat. As I said in the video 3v appears to be more corrosion resistant but as far as toughness and edge retention I am not seeing it in my actual use. Laboratory test you may see a difference but in field use I think it would be hard to tell the difference in edge retention and toughness in a properly heat treated O1. If your not achieving a RC of 61-63 in O1 then your not reaching O1's potential.
I did not call all other steels super steels. In fact I would not recommend Elmax (that I do consider a super steel) to any person who does not know how to sharpen a knife properly. There is no use in having a super steel blade when you don't know how to sharpen it in the field because all knives will get blunt at one point. That American knife makers that make bushcraft knives mostly use O1 is just a fact. They are experimenting with the use of other steels but recently. That O1 is indeed very forgiven (like 1095) is a fact that I hear from knife makers. That does not mean these steel are bad. There are some very good knife makers out there that make very good O1 steel knives. But hey will rust and not all knife users want to clean and oil their knife after every use. That is also why it is recommended to store any carbon steel knife outside the leather sheath. People are forcing a patina on them and a lot of them get a rust resistant coating.
Yes well we are repeating ourselves and getting nowhere. As a custom knife maker who has used and made knives from most of the available steels and who lives in a very wet swampy area in the States disagree on points already mentioned so we need to move on. I wish you well and appreciate your video views.
This is not a real test The real test is to practice the harshest kinds of experiments until each knife loses its intensity and becomes a dead blade and sees when each knife has become its blade is blunt before the other Here the best metal appears
Aal Aal well, that is one test for sure. There is also a destructive test, a sharpness test and...I could go on. Link your test video here and I will be happy to critic them for you as well.
It's a test but not a very good one you didn't test the knifes until they were dull for one that's kinda weird. Ok the other thing is you switched the medium you were testing from cardboard to wood in the middle of the test which makes no sense test once for Edge retention on the cardboard and go until the the knives dull. And then take them through the strength test on the wood until they both doll and see which one last longer.
Casey Bryan LOL, the test was to demonstrate normal use not to proves which steel was better. I was showing that it was difficult to tell a difference between the two through normal use. I question if the price difference was worth it but it was a customer choice. As a maker my profit margin remains the same.
William Collins I understand that but the whole reason their buying it is because it is probably tougher and has more Edge retention than 01 that's why their buying it and if you don't believe that than do some more testing and research I plan on making some knives in powdered steel soon and look forward to doing my own tests but thanks for the response
William Collins the video is called cpm3v vs 0-1 the title is kind of contradictory to what you're saying if you would. If I'm not mistaken the reason of a versus is to determine a winner right?
Casey Bryan not in this case. If you don’t like the video, fine. You can just move on to another channel. Evidently my videos are not up to your standards and I can live with that.
William Collins well your saying that o-1 is just as good as almost any powder metal steel as far as edge retention and toughness and I think we've moved a little bit past that o-1 in terms of that. Advice take moving on to other data points and videos on the subject.
Not really, are you a custom knife maker? All steel is easy to work with if you know how. Do you have one of my O1 knives? No, so you can't have an opinion on this video comparing my O1 to a professional heat treating shop. I have used O1 in swamps and have no issues with corrosion. People in the jungles all over the world use carbon steel with no problems. I think you just want to argue and make people think you know something you don't. Please go away or I will block.
You think about what if scenario and apply it across the board. Most knife users are not taking a knife to do everything under the sun. Most knife users are not taking a knife and going into the wild for 3 weeks or more either. I get really alarmed when people read off what properties steel have and don't have and never real world tested the knife. I get into arguments with people who own a VG-10 S1 and they tell me it is the best survival blade but the blade chips and the spine is too soft for ferro rod work and that comes from real world use. When you see reviews of William Collins Blades have you ever seen multiple complaints? People wait a year for a reason. O1 has been around a long time for a reason. Yes it has weaknesses but it has plus value too. Go take your M390, 3V, or even Cruwear blade into the Smokies and use it for everything under the sun and then tell me how sharp it is after 30-60 days of use without taking it home to sharpen. I can use my belt to keep my blade sharp enough to prepare trout, make tinder, and enjoy my weekend outdoors like most people and not hit a stone/rod for a whole year. Spare me the walkabout with only a knife for 6 months with a super steel story that don't happen in real life. I have nice 3V blades but I am going back to D2 from Dozier, A2 from LTWK, and O1 from William Collins and enjoy the outdoors. If you are breaking O1, D2, and A2 then you are doing some strange activities that is not needed. Yes my Busse with INFI steel can chop through concrete blocks but that is not what I use a blade for. I'd rather have a blade that cuts first then can do other chores without breaking. I am not trying to dig ore with my knife and then cut the metal in half and expect no edge damage.
William Collins is right he knows what he is talking about. He makes knives and different steels , do you ??. He proves here 01 is good as 3V which is overhyped in my opinion and over priced and harder to sharpen in the field . Mountain men did not use 3V or other super steels and they worked just fine. Sure everyone has a opinion that is fine that is our freedom of speech but if we do not make knives we are not the experts . That is why we are learning the truth about knife steels as in this video here by Mr. Collins.
3V is twice as good at just about everything than 01, your heat treat must be off. You’re comparing a powdered metallurgical steel to an antiquated machine steel that carries no advantages
IrishSavage87 did not heat treat the 3v it was professional done by Peter’s Heat Treat. The 3v I am heat treating is about 3 times better than my O1. So your right if it is done properly it is a great steal.
3V is ok, however it is a pain in the ass to sharpen in the field , not good for a field knife or survival blade steel. You must be able to sharpen your blade easy with just a pocket Diamond sharpener like a DMT Diafold , or similar sharpener. The Best steel is AEB-L It blows 3V away easily , because it is a stainless steel yet it sharpens as easy as 01 or 1095 and it will not rust. AEB-L is the best of both worlds and it can hold a edge as long as 3V. I would never buy a 3V , it costs more and is difficult to sharpen if it gets dull . AEB-L is great , I have it on my LT Wright Patriot Scandi version and it sharpens with ease to a razors edge on a Fallkniven DC3 or DC4 pocket sharpener. I own and tried many steels including 3V , and sold my 3V knife . AEB-L is my new favorite steel then A2 and 01 , 1095. On the other steels I just oil them after use with no rust issues . Just my opinion, buy and use what you like.
Mark JG me and my team are comparing 3v to AEB-L and I agree I like AEB-L better but the reason I like it better is it seams to get a sharper edge. 3v is sharp but the carbides in stainless allow’s it to cut better. Here is one of my test groups videos on sharpening comparisons. ua-cam.com/video/TVk76MwseDg/v-deo.html
Heat treat is dependent on climate, working conditions, and equipment so what works for me may not work the same for you. The best advise I can give is to find a reasonable heat treat process like the process listed at www.hudsontoolsteel.com and experiment with different temps and durations to find what works for you and your equipment. 5 degrees is a lot when your talking heat treat.
Nathaniel Barron thanks, this is a complete playlist on the Master Woodsman and sharpening. It is very easy the edge bevel is the same angle all the way through from handle to tip. ua-cam.com/play/PLlbS3ilO_URopS8TR9zyYZFOzE2ZuHV6W.html
Woo Hoo. The day is always improved when I "hear" from my brother William. Good stuff,
Appreciate the support.
Great video William. As a new knife maker, l've come to watch your videos before trying something new. I've only made three knives so far, all completely hand made with hack saw, files, and sand paper (and a drill press) . The 01 steel just works out better for me. Thank you for sharing!
Appreciate your video support and wish you well with your knife making.
Thanks William. Seems like a honest test. Im a 01 guy usually but was thinking about a knife in 3V at some point. You gave me something to ponder. 👌
Happy to help, appreciate your support.
I've had an O1 knife from a well known Knife maker and another O1 knife from a one man shop who does his own heat treat. The knife from the one man shop was much more impact resistant than the other. I like your videos.
2 of my most used outdoors knives are in your O1 and Peter's 3v from a different maker ground very differently. So, it's difficult to get a 1:1 comparison. However, what I've seen anecdotally is that the real difference is not abrasion resistance, but edge stability under very hard use (bordering on what some may call abuse). The O1 has surprising toughness and the edge will roll or deform instead of chipping, but the 3v is just incredibly stable and resistant to any type of deformation even under high impact and prying.
So if the knife is going to be used just to cut and slice I think O1 wins for having comparible edge retention with better value and sharpenability.
But, if the knife is going to be whacked and pounded and pryed with and twisted, I think that's where you start to see some return on investment in 3v. Also my experience is similar in that it seems more stainless than semi-stainless in terms of corrosion /rust resistance.
Appreciate your view and sharing.
I'm an O1 fan....glad to see that it holds up well in your test. Wet hide seems to be the worse thing that dulls my knifes....but I've found that in the field sharpening is easier with O1 than with my few stainless knives.
Thanks!
Awesome video man. One thing I’ve noticed with the A2 blades from LTWK that are Cyro treated at Peters, they don’t rust or patina near as fast or bad as other companies that I’ve tested A2 with that weren’t cyro treated. Not sure what the treatment is exactly but I think it does help it from tarnishing and corroding as fast.
Yep, did some research on that and it is being discussed in forums about how the cryo treatment decreases corrosion problems. Very surprising.
And to be honest I was hesitant to post this video thinking I got the steels mixed up somehow with a stainless but that was impossible because I didn't have any stainless with that batch of knives. So I did the internet search to see if others were seeing the same thing and they are as well.
According to Mike Stewart at BRK Cold Steels infamous Carbon V was manufactured by Sharon Steel and HT and cryotreated ...I'm pretty sure by Camillus. I spoke to Mike over this issue as I have used CS carbon V for years and never has it failed...it does rust and patina far slower than commonly available 01 with normal treatments. Cryo just makes the right steel a better steel.
Iv been enjoying a2 from hogue their ht ct is amazing
it probably results in more even distribution of chromium. One of the things that decreases the corrosion resistance in stainless alloy is holding the steel at a temp that causes the chromium to migrate to the edge of grains (or something like that). The treatment schedules generally say to avoid temps between 800F and 1400F because of that - either hot or not
Great job Mr Collins! I loved the handle material you used on those, both did great to. 👍 keep the epicness coming, u make some good blades and videos.
Thanks!
Awesome test William! There really is an art to heat treat. I have had different knives with the same steel, same grinds and one performed way better than the other. The knives you tested have a very interesting shape. I usually stay away from non traditional blade shapes but one of yours I would try. Great video brother.
Thanks, yep the heat treat makes all the difference. You should check out my Woodsman Grind playlist to learn more about that blade design.
William Collins I will check it out!
Damn I love you and my O1. My O1 held up against S30V ht by Peters and not one failure, the S30V broke twice from using a torch to check and straighten.
Mountain Fisher good to hear. Appreciate the comment.
Edge retention is about the same. The big difference with 3v is chip and impact resistance. 3v is quite superior in that regard. But if you're not buttoning every day with it, it's not worth a $50 increase in knife price.
Great test William! From my understanding, 3V is supposed to be stronger than O1 etc. which allows makers to produce thinner blades and edges with the same strength as other steels. It would be interesting to see a test of that hypothesis.
That is a argument for 3V but my O1 full flats at the secondary apex are about .020. Don't think you can get much thinner than that. See this video on blade thicknesses. 26
14:06
Knife Edge Apex, My Thoughts
William Collins
ua-cam.com/video/ixH5hP71zeg/v-deo.html&list=PLlbS3ilO_URps8TZQbO_fywqG7rkESByc&index=26
Thanks brother. I agree O-1 is great stuff and I would never be worried about only having it in the field. Most of my stuff is O-1 right now. I think the big hype about 3V is the idea that it can withstand abuse better than O-1 at thinner edge geometry. For instance if you pounded identical blade geometries in O-1 and 3V through some pine knots, the 3V is "supposed" to handle it better than the O-1 as far as chipping, rolling, denting etc. 3V is supposed to allow you to grind super thin edges that will handle damage better than full carbon steels. Personally I haven't tested this but it might be worth trying that out as well. Honestly, I think it will really come down to heat treatment in the end and there is a limit to thinness no matter the steel and what ends up being practical.
I appreciate your honesty, as a knifemaker. For me use determines steel choice, and CPM 3V is very tough--less prone to chipping. I slash vines, cut small saplings, and chop limbs, etc. Sometimes I hit a rock beneath the dirt surface, so my ESEE 1095 steel chips. I have fixed it, but I am hoping the CPM 3V is less prone to chipping, as it is rated tougher. 3V is not as good at edge retention as CPM S90v, Elmax, or M390, which I have, but 3v is not bad in edge retention and I am more concerned with chipping than edge retention. Corrosion has never been an issue since I just clean my knives regularly.
The question remains too, how much is it worth to the buyer to get 3v steel over say 01? That will likely vary person to person, but you offer the choice. What more can you do? Good video.
CPM3V
0.80% Carbon
7.50% Chromium
2.75% Vanadium
1.30% Molybdenum
01 Tool Steel
Carbon 0.95%
Manganese 1.25%
Chromium 0.50%
Tungsten 0.50%
Vanadium 0.20%
As you can see the CPM 3V has a 7% higher chromium content which could well account for the difference in stain resistance.
I have both Cold steel kukri in O-1 and about 7-8 cold steel knives in cpm 3v and i've noticed that it is very easy to put the edge on O-1 but 3v has a little more clean edge
Thank you I always learn something when I watch your videos. At the moment I don't have one of your knives. It's just a little out of my budget. But when I do get the money I will be getting one of your knives for sure. Thanks again keep it up.
sourena zilaie appreciate your video support.
It is videos like this that got me interested in your work!
Thanks!
There is a recent video on Dutch Bushcraft Knife on testing a knife made of O1. It could not hold an edge compare to 'super steel' like M7 or 4V, But it was easiest to sharpen.
Yea he commented on this video too as if he could speak for all O1 steel. Just like anything else there is different quality standards. Just because one O1 doesn't hold its own doesn't mean that O1 is bad or inferior. Just that the heat treat isn't where it should be. If your not getting 61 - 62 RC on your O1 then your not achieving its potential and not many makers push that limit.
William Collins hello sir. Your knife in 01 kicks ass. Plain and simple. The Dutch bushcraft knives channel that tested the 01 knife that didn’t hold up is a different Dutch bushcraft then the jack ass commenting on your O1 as if all 01 are equal. Just wanted to let you know. Thanks and god bless
Appreciate the clarification and compliment.
William Collins no problem sir
Great Work William!!! I Have To Say I Was Gutted When Stripping Some Thistles For the Horses With CPM 3V There Was Some Kind Of Rapid Galvanic Corrosion and The Tannins Ate Into the Edge in less than 10 Mins!!! The Rest of the Blade Was Stain Free!? Im Guessing as good as 3v is This odd Deep Pitting Corrosion is Why Many Makers Dont Use it!? Mora carbon steel just got an even Patina for Comparison!.
Mark Anthony Stringfellow yep, not to sold on the 3v. Like the CPM 154 and s35vn but don't think the 3v is worth the additional cost IMHO.
Nice knives, William ! Thanks for another good video !
Appreciate your support.
Gotta say you make a beautiful knife. Maybe one day I can save up enough to get one. That would be one useful knife on my loop around America trying to make Alaska then go South America down one side up the other. So every dollar I have right now is going to making the van capable. It’s a 2007 Chevy so hopefully by the end of this summer the adventure begins.
Wish you all the best for your trip.
I realize that im super late to the party here however, all steels have strengths and weaknesses. You could say well why dont you just do an apples to apples comparison. And run both the 3v and the 01 to say 59-60 hrc. But youd be missing the point. 01 can be run higher so that it can hold an edge as well or slightly longer than 3v. Will it hold a candle to how tough 3v is? No of course not. But you pick your hrc and heat treat and steel based on what you want the knife to do. You want stainlessness over all else? Go h1? You want toughness over all else s7 would be great... you want a decent mix of ease of sharpening, edge holding and toughness 01 is not a bad choice.
nerv 102 agreed but for stainless I prefer AEB-L with my proprietary heat treat in house. 3v is tougher for side to side pressure but I don’t need a pry at for a knife. I prefer cutting. Appreciate your view and thoughts.
@@wcknives I definitely think you know what youre doing, my comment was aimed more at the other people lol. But thanks for making some great quality knives and doing what you do.
nerv 102 appreciate your view and support.
This vid has me left with more questions but can’t really sort them out. The #1 deal is I sort you out,own 2 of your blades. MW 01&fur and scale edc necker s35vn. No reason for me to have doubts of living the woodsman life or which tools work coming from you. So as anything in the market goes,price is placed on demand. If I buy tums for my heartburn I chew the same amount as the store brand and I’m good. Knife community tends to turn right all in sequence. Well except those like yourself who are honest about what works well and advise strongly to stay the course. True not all heat treat is equal so it’s a good idea to make those lefts every so often.
Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I like your belt knife sheath.
my 2 favorite steels....looks like great handle ergos!
good test william..love that master woodsman
Yes sir! Thanks.
Id love to see a continued test with cardboard or rope of the same two knives and see how many cuts it takes until they can't easily slice paper... But heat treat is definitely a major factor, I've seen O1 from a certain maker that is more corrosion resistant than most stainless steels because of the awesome heat treat... Id agree that most people probably won't use the knives enough to notice a difference between the two steels but I'd be willing to bet that if the test continued until they were both dull that there would be a clear winner at least by a little bit. (Probably not enough to make up for the $150 price difference though)
I have did a cardboard slice test with my O1 to over 150 slices and it would still shave. There is a video of this on my channel. If I have the time some day I may try this with 3v but everyone is welcome to do their own test against those standards until then;-). Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I remember on a forum I destruction tested an O1 knife with unbelievable results, battoning bricks and blocks with 22oz hammer to the spine and so on. All the snobby knife collectors and steel snobs had no comment at all lol. They don't want to believe a knife I made for about $30 was just as good as their $300 in actual use.
Shock Wave LOL, O1 is still my favorite carbon steel. Haven’t seen anything beat it yet if properly heat treated.
52100 might be similar, similar low alloy carbon steel with about 1% carbon@@wcknives
Peters uses heat to straighten your heat treated blade. Think that's good for it? #3V has 7% chrome so it's going to hold off on rusting for awhile, but not around seawater.
Mountain Fisher I heat everything in house now but still not sure sure of your point. Most heat treat recommendation is the aneal before heat treat. Thanks for sharing your methods but really happy with my results as is my customers.
@@wcknives Peters will take a torch to unwarp a ht part. That caused two of my S30V knives to break from flexing. Not a single one of my O1 knives ever broke from flexing at hRC 60-61. I don't have the capability to HT S30V properly. Oven won't do it.
Thanks for posting this.
Very welcome, appreciate your support.
Thank you! Great video!
I would be interested in seeing one of yours in 440 c do a cutting test, no reason on paper that it would be worse than cpm 154, in fact as it has more chrome it should hold its edge better!
Not sure you would be able to tell a difference in field test, laboratory probably but not in daily use.
Honest question... Could this be a testament to your grind..? I know that the quality of the steel and the heat treatment are huge factors in edge retention, but as a chef and an outdoorsman, I've used plenty of knives from all ends of the quality spectrum... I've used some super cheap knives that surprised me by almost never needing more than a touch up, and I've had some expensive blades were nothing short of disappointing. The hogstooth I got from you continues to impress me and paired with this video, I can't help but wonder if craftsmanship is the deciding factor...
Grinds were the same so the grind wasn't a factor between these two knives. Appreciate your view and comment. Craftsmanship could be the factor but the same test between the same two steels could be done with other fabricators to see if they have different results.
William Collins I'm more referring to the results being so close because of the grind...
AHHHHH Ok. Could be but I think a lesser quality steel or heat treat would have shown a difference is edge retention no matter the grind geometry. JMHO!
William Collins between the two of us, you're the expert! Just a thought I had... Perhaps a good edge is just a good edge!
Don't claim to be an expert but yes edge geometry is very important.
If your doing edge retention test's and make it as fair as possible... I would get some strong thick rope like manila hemp that's at least 1/2 - 5/8 inch thick and cut in the same part of the blade. I know using cardboard is easy and abundant for you but you'll be cutting that forever! xD
I love your videos! I want a knife so bad from you but on my college student budget I dont think I'll have enough for years. So, I'm thinking on making my own O1 steel knife similar to your WCSK. I wish you had a video on how to heat treat and temper O1 steel because you are the best at it. I'm not asking to leak your trade secrets but just a basic tutorial on how not to fuck up your steel.. lol
IcyS appreciate your view and comment. Heat treat is contingent on many things and I explain why I don’t give out that in a video call “why some things are secret” and also give advise on how to heat treat.
Exactly, you'll need to cut hundreds to thousands of feet of cardboard (steel dependant) to notice difference in wear resistance. I filled up more than half of my recycling barrel with cardboard testing m390 and it still shaved. Filled it almost full testing s110v and it still catches a few hairs. 3v has better wear resistance(close to s30v, heat treat depending), higher toughness and better corrosion resistance than O1. But it's more expensive, harder to hear treat and harder(takes longer) to sharpen than O1. Have folders, small fixed blades and choppers in both and I think both are great steels and are some of my favorites.
Great review.
Nice one William, it amuses me when all the latest greatest super steels don’t seem to be any better than good old O1, have you tried cryogenic treatment on O1, you mentioned that you were going to, also have you ever made blades out of 440 c, that’s a steel that I think is underrated, but given that it’s a tool steel, should actually be very good.
yes I have had Peter's cryo treat a couple O1 large blades but they were customers so I haven't personally used one yet. 440C is a good hight carbon stainless for sure.
Awesome video and I get to learn something new,I don't get better then that thank you God bless...
Thank you, happy I could pass on a little something.
I really like the design of the master woodsman... Just wondering how it is to sharpen in the field?
Nathaniel Barron thanks, very easy. The scandi bevel is the same from the handle to the tip. Here is a playlist on the grind and design. There are several videos on sharpening. ua-cam.com/play/PLlbS3ilO_URopS8TR9zyYZFOzE2ZuHV6W.html
I have an 01 puukko on the way (not one of yours, alas) with HC 57-59. I've heard it's best around 60. Is that true? What do you take your 01 too?
Jeremiah Shine not achieving O1 potential until 61. Mine are 62-63.
William Collins Thanks. I'll have to bust the handles off and give it a whirl. Unless you want to do it...
Jeremiah Shine sorry, only time to make my knives.
William Collins If I can get lucky enough to catch the batch I'm on it! Nothing but good words is what I've heard. The 18th, right? What time will you push the release button. 👍
Jeremiah Shine no set time. Best to subscribe and click on the bell for notices of video uploads.
Do you issue the tissue with this video ! Concrete ! I'm tearing up held up great as always take care brother
Hey how's Mr. Collins ?
Thanks, he is doing better, thanks for asking.
Ill take O1 all day every day. I carry a falknivin dc3 in my picket so when my knife gets dull i sharpen it.
I think cpm 3v has some vanadium in it. I think its semi stainless like D2
Appreciate your view and thoughts.
I really like the base shape of these knives are they available for sale and do you have a website link?
kevin auman sure www.wcknives.com
@@wcknives thank you
Lovely video
how can i get you to make me a custom knife?? I love your work!! i have a great collection and yours would be a great addition!!
Vincent Flauto appreciate your interest but had to stop customs in 2018. Just done have the time. There are customs offered on my website as well as production models and I have three dealers. Visit my website www.wcknives.com for more information . There is a video on the home page if you need help navigating the site or have other questions.
Hi i am a noob when comes to steel but having a few blades of the cpm 3v and the o1 steel, can i say that they also depend a lot on how well both steels are being treated?
Completely agree that is why I stated who did the heat treat for these knives several times. Other brands may not have the same results.
William Collins Thanks for your comment which given me more knowledge in steel which also helps whenever i purchase a new blade with so many kinds of steel in the market (only able to watch youtuber reviews). So i guess i am pretty right as in eg. "a" company produce a blade of cpm 3v may not be as strong as "b" company's cpm 3v, right? Thanks bro for your enlightenment
Keith Sim yes and the same with all steels. Peter's, who I used for the 3v in this video, is a leader in the industry and most of the larger knife shops, LT Write and BHK just to name a couple, use them for all of their heat treating and they do a great job. My argument is that in day to day use I have not seen a difference between a reputable heat treated 3v and my heat treated O1. You can probably see a difference in lab test but not day to day use.
William Collins truly agree with u bro
I guess u may not like what i am collecting lol...cold steel products. I like their products for several reasons, strict law over my country, so i rarely even have the need or able to use the blades but as a collector i want the best looking and quality of blades (personal preference) but i dont like their marketing strategy which i assume many hated that big time. I visited their website on types of steels. They all written as the best, so which is the best? Lol..if i am rich enough, i will purchase 2 same blades of different steels from them and have a blade vs blade knockout to see which will kill which....lol
Forged steel over stock removed regardless of alloy.
I once saw a forged carbon steel knife cut a cheap, stock removed stainless knife with ease.
Heat treat is a huge part of any steel performance. We also have seen magicians perform many feats to push an agenda.
Performance of o1 = the knife maker's ht skill. People stating that this steel is the easiest to work with have at best the basic knowledge of ht procedure. Most of the time they just wasting good material. Treat it right and it will outperform many of the "supasteels".
In ur opinion what is the best knife steel that is rust resistant?
either CPM 154 or CPM s356vn
Will O1 reather chip or role? Will it bent or brake?
Mine do not. As the video shows.
nice knives they both are Beautifull
Great steel that O1 both are good steels on price O1 is top good test .👍
Thanks!
Soak the CPM 3v in vinegar overnight... if it is gonna patina, it will do so then.
Tried it for a couple of hours with not patina but didn't over night. Thanks!
Say Heah William, I find the 3V DOESN'T rust as much, but it pits. But be glad there's steel choices, because if O1 was the blade sreel and everybody had one, they wouldn't have to buy but one knife.,,.p
Good point.
good test...you might need to start testing on your beard the arms are looking pretty well shaved
LOL, thanks!
What wood was on that knife ... ok I seen what u said
scott smith 3v had African Blackwood and the O1 toasted red oak. Have a knife now on my Available Knives webpage with the same red oak handles.
William Collins I have zebra wood if u can't get it ok
scott smith oak, thanks!
Why you not tell your treatment?
Sebs_scandi_knifes I AM ua-cam.com/video/uIMIhdWbAPQ/v-deo.html
just the chromium difference for the patina not showing as fast on 3V
Thanks, getting the same comments about A2 with a cryo treatment verses without a cryo treatment so cryo treatment may also play a part.
O1 is an acceptable steel in dry conditions. Like all steels the heat treatment has to be good. But O1 is not some supersteel although most Americans think so. There are no O1 diver knives for a reason.
Dutch Bushcraft Appreciate your thoughts. However, this was a comparison between a high carbon super steel, as you called it and a high carbon O1 and neither one are considered as dive knives. This was a edge test and the O1 heat treated in my shop held its own with the super steel and that is what this video was about. In the video I explain that corosion is an issue with both steels, perhaps you missed that or didn't watch the video.
I was talking more in general. I'm not talking about your knife or craftsmanship specific, because I don't have any of your knives. I've tested many knifes and still are and that also includes O1 steel ones from well respected American knife makers. I test and compare more carbon steels, like 1095, sk5, D2, L6, along with the more rust resistant ones, from Sandvik to Elmax. In the US it is hard to find a bush knife that is not made from O1 and over here it is difficult to find one in O1, mostly because of the taxes we pay when importing from the US and few European knife makers use O1. Most beginning knife makers do use it because it is easy to work with. I am not saying that O1 is no good. Absolutely not. But 3V is more rust resistant than O1 but they will both rust eventually. Maybe it is our wet and moist climate why people are more likely to choose a different steel. ;)
I live in a swamp and it doesn't get much wetter than that. I have used O1 for many years now in that swamp and have no issues with corrosion. Not sure about knife makers in the US primarily using O1 I see lots of makers at the Atlanta Blade show last year and most were using the super steels as you called them. O1 is not the easiest steel to work with either, not sure where you heard that. It is a bit more forgiving than some steels if your OK with an average heat treat but not if your after the optimum heat treat. As I said in the video 3v appears to be more corrosion resistant but as far as toughness and edge retention I am not seeing it in my actual use. Laboratory test you may see a difference but in field use I think it would be hard to tell the difference in edge retention and toughness in a properly heat treated O1. If your not achieving a RC of 61-63 in O1 then your not reaching O1's potential.
I did not call all other steels super steels. In fact I would not recommend Elmax (that I do consider a super steel) to any person who does not know how to sharpen a knife properly. There is no use in having a super steel blade when you don't know how to sharpen it in the field because all knives will get blunt at one point. That American knife makers that make bushcraft knives mostly use O1 is just a fact. They are experimenting with the use of other steels but recently. That O1 is indeed very forgiven (like 1095) is a fact that I hear from knife makers. That does not mean these steel are bad. There are some very good knife makers out there that make very good O1 steel knives. But hey will rust and not all knife users want to clean and oil their knife after every use. That is also why it is recommended to store any carbon steel knife outside the leather sheath. People are forcing a patina on them and a lot of them get a rust resistant coating.
Yes well we are repeating ourselves and getting nowhere. As a custom knife maker who has used and made knives from most of the available steels and who lives in a very wet swampy area in the States disagree on points already mentioned so we need to move on. I wish you well and appreciate your video views.
This is not a real test The real test is to practice the harshest kinds of experiments until each knife loses its intensity and becomes a dead blade and sees when each knife has become its blade is blunt before the other Here the best metal appears
Aal Aal well, that is one test for sure. There is also a destructive test, a sharpness test and...I could go on. Link your test video here and I will be happy to critic them for you as well.
It's a test but not a very good one you didn't test the knifes until they were dull for one that's kinda weird. Ok the other thing is you switched the medium you were testing from cardboard to wood in the middle of the test which makes no sense test once for Edge retention on the cardboard and go until the the knives dull. And then take them through the strength test on the wood until they both doll and see which one last longer.
Casey Bryan LOL, the test was to demonstrate normal use not to proves which steel was better. I was showing that it was difficult to tell a difference between the two through normal use. I question if the price difference was worth it but it was a customer choice. As a maker my profit margin remains the same.
William Collins I understand that but the whole reason their buying it is because it is probably tougher and has more Edge retention than 01 that's why their buying it and if you don't believe that than do some more testing and research I plan on making some knives in powdered steel soon and look forward to doing my own tests but thanks for the response
William Collins the video is called cpm3v vs 0-1 the title is kind of contradictory to what you're saying if you would. If I'm not mistaken the reason of a versus is to determine a winner right?
Casey Bryan not in this case. If you don’t like the video, fine. You can just move on to another channel. Evidently my videos are not up to your standards and I can live with that.
William Collins well your saying that o-1 is just as good as almost any powder metal steel as far as edge retention and toughness and I think we've moved a little bit past that o-1 in terms of that. Advice take moving on to other data points and videos on the subject.
People looking for 3v are looking for toughness...
We wanna this type of comparison
good
O1 is just the easiest steel to work with for a knife maker. Not the best steel for a knife user.
Not really, are you a custom knife maker? All steel is easy to work with if you know how. Do you have one of my O1 knives? No, so you can't have an opinion on this video comparing my O1 to a professional heat treating shop. I have used O1 in swamps and have no issues with corrosion. People in the jungles all over the world use carbon steel with no problems. I think you just want to argue and make people think you know something you don't. Please go away or I will block.
You think about what if scenario and apply it across the board. Most knife users are not taking a knife to do everything under the sun. Most knife users are not taking a knife and going into the wild for 3 weeks or more either. I get really alarmed when people read off what properties steel have and don't have and never real world tested the knife. I get into arguments with people who own a VG-10 S1 and they tell me it is the best survival blade but the blade chips and the spine is too soft for ferro rod work and that comes from real world use. When you see reviews of William Collins Blades have you ever seen multiple complaints? People wait a year for a reason. O1 has been around a long time for a reason. Yes it has weaknesses but it has plus value too. Go take your M390, 3V, or even Cruwear blade into the Smokies and use it for everything under the sun and then tell me how sharp it is after 30-60 days of use without taking it home to sharpen. I can use my belt to keep my blade sharp enough to prepare trout, make tinder, and enjoy my weekend outdoors like most people and not hit a stone/rod for a whole year. Spare me the walkabout with only a knife for 6 months with a super steel story that don't happen in real life. I have nice 3V blades but I am going back to D2 from Dozier, A2 from LTWK, and O1 from William Collins and enjoy the outdoors. If you are breaking O1, D2, and A2 then you are doing some strange activities that is not needed. Yes my Busse with INFI steel can chop through concrete blocks but that is not what I use a blade for. I'd rather have a blade that cuts first then can do other chores without breaking. I am not trying to dig ore with my knife and then cut the metal in half and expect no edge damage.
William Collins whoa there! No need to be so defensive! He just stated his opinion, everyone is entitled to one, no matter how wrong or right they are
William Collins your reply is just sad to see...he was just stating his point
William Collins is right he knows what he is talking about. He makes knives and different steels , do you ??. He proves here 01 is good as 3V which is overhyped in my opinion and over priced and harder to sharpen in the field . Mountain men did not use 3V or other super steels and they worked just fine. Sure everyone has a opinion that is fine that is our freedom of speech but if we do not make knives we are not the experts . That is why we are learning the truth about knife steels as in this video here by Mr. Collins.
3V is twice as good at just about everything than 01, your heat treat must be off. You’re comparing a powdered metallurgical steel to an antiquated machine steel that carries no advantages
IrishSavage87 did not heat treat the 3v it was professional done by Peter’s Heat Treat. The 3v I am heat treating is about 3 times better than my O1. So your right if it is done properly it is a great steal.
This video will show the difference. ua-cam.com/video/c9s6s3WJEgc/v-deo.html
3V is ok, however it is a pain in the ass to sharpen in the field , not good for a field knife or survival blade steel. You must be able to sharpen your blade easy with just a pocket Diamond sharpener like a DMT Diafold , or similar sharpener. The Best steel is AEB-L It blows 3V away easily , because it is a stainless steel yet it sharpens as easy as 01 or 1095 and it will not rust. AEB-L is the best of both worlds and it can hold a edge as long as 3V. I would never buy a 3V , it costs more and is difficult to sharpen if it gets dull . AEB-L is great , I have it on my LT Wright Patriot Scandi version and it sharpens with ease to a razors edge on a Fallkniven DC3 or DC4 pocket sharpener. I own and tried many steels including 3V , and sold my 3V knife . AEB-L is my new favorite steel then A2 and 01 , 1095. On the other steels I just oil them after use with no rust issues . Just my opinion, buy and use what you like.
Mark JG me and my team are comparing 3v to AEB-L and I agree I like AEB-L better but the reason I like it better is it seams to get a sharper edge. 3v is sharp but the carbides in stainless allow’s it to cut better. Here is one of my test groups videos on sharpening comparisons. ua-cam.com/video/TVk76MwseDg/v-deo.html
Mark JG why sharpen in the field? I just carry a back up knife... also diamond stones made quick work of 3V
3V is 7precent chrominium.
Pierre- Built yes it is, Thanks!
Do you share your O1 heat treat recipes?
Heat treat is dependent on climate, working conditions, and equipment so what works for me may not work the same for you. The best advise I can give is to find a reasonable heat treat process like the process listed at www.hudsontoolsteel.com and experiment with different temps and durations to find what works for you and your equipment. 5 degrees is a lot when your talking heat treat.
I really like the design of the master woodsman... Just wondering how it is to sharpen in the field?
Nathaniel Barron thanks, this is a complete playlist on the Master Woodsman and sharpening. It is very easy the edge bevel is the same angle all the way through from handle to tip. ua-cam.com/play/PLlbS3ilO_URopS8TR9zyYZFOzE2ZuHV6W.html