The O-1 Tool Steel Controversy
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2024
- Today's vlog: is O-1 tool steel a good steel for the beginning knifemaker?
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This channel has sort of turned (inadvertently) into a knife making channel. But the original idea behind what we wanted it to be is this description below:
Videos on our journey to homesteading. With a recent purchase of a little piece of the Alberta prairie, we're looking to sell our nice suburban home in search of a more meaningful life beyond chasing the "American dream" working for some big company and making someone else rich. It's not about the money, it's about getting the most value from the work I do to improving the life of my family.
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Jeremy, I'm a huge Peter McKinnon fan too. Nice homage to him.
Hahahaha! Yeah!👍 He's got some serious talents and I find him incredibly inspiring!
O1 tool is what I started with when I started and still used to this day. Used a 2 brick forge to heat treat the first one. Quench in extra virgin olive oil. Still to this day is an awesome knife.
Always appreciate your awesome insight! Kevin Cashen has a good DVD on heat treating 1084, an easy steel to get a good forge-side heat treat with. No temperature control needed. No alloys or hypereutectoid carbide issues.
Read Cashen's O1 HT. I was doing it in the 90s and didn't know why until I read Cashen.
Hypereutectoid, I think I heard that on a raunchy talk show. Just kidding, I'm going to have to look it up. Thought I new a lot about carbides, but that term is new to me. Thanks for providing it
Does anyone know what company he is talking about in this video? I started with O1 and I still use O1 years later. It is a great steel to work with and it makes great tools. I make knives from O1 and I make my own chisels, scrapers, scissors, and some wood turning tools as well as many other things over the years. It is a great steel for beginners and pros alike in my opinion. Another major plus to using O1 tool steel is that it is very affordable. Great video, thanks for sharing.
The thing I like most about O-1 tool steel is that O-1 takes an incredible patina. I have noticed that hardened and unhardened O-1 patinas at different rates, but that doesn’t really change much. Still patinas nicely and has great rust resistance
I love O1 and make tools and knives from it for years… beside the price
As a hobby guy I have had good results with 0-1 and have been satisfied with its performance. It's easy to sharpen with a diamond stone and strops really well. I have easy access to it and it doesn't break the bank. Heat it evenly to critical, quench in canola , temper in the oven at 400 for 1hr and your good to go.
Good for guys like me that don't have fancy tools, everything today is context I wish people would remember that. I have to laugh at all the snobbery from people who have the access to and the ability to heat treat super steels.
Been using 01 and 1084 with excellent results. I heat treat with oxy acetylene to non magnetic and quench in135 degree canola oil. Temper at 400 2 times for 1 hour each seems to work for me. Thanks for the video have a great day sir
O1 has easy heat treatment but it is very demanding to be forged because there is easy grain growth if it exceeds the maximum forging temperature. Some normalization cycles are required before hardening.
01 was the first steel I have used. Not sure if you have an in depth video on basic 01 heat treating but would be interested in your recipe for 01.
You forgot O1 has over 1% manganese. It makes the heat treating different. You cannot compare steels if you ignore so called non-knife hardening alloy elements. I heat treated (HT) both O1 with Vanadium always beat the 80CrV2 because of that Manganese and a tiny bit of Vanadium. At 0.2% vanadium doesn't make carbides, but what it does do is restrict grain growth in the matrix.
Vanadium makes harder carbides than even tungsten. Explains those "super steels" with high percentages of vanadium. FYI
You can buy O1 without the Vanadium, Latrobe still makes it, you don't want it. 80CrV2 was made for the folks with forges for HT in case you get too hot it won't create large grains in the matrix unless you go way too hot. Difference is that right after quench within 2 to 3 minutes O1 can be straightened easily if it warps, but the 80CrV2 does not have this property. See what that manganese does? I cannot say for certain, but it is the biggest difference between the two and the 0.5% tungsten which cannot account for short term flex.
A short HT lesson is gradually heat O1 up to 1475 F and hold for 12-15 minutes depending on thickness, then quench in an oil with a slower cool rate than Parks 50. Canola oil is about right at 120 to 130 degrees, O1 takes a slower quench. It will be HRC 65 as quenched. The 12-15 minutes is necessary to get the chrome and tungsten into solution to form into carbides upon quench. Then literally as fast as you can you quench in oil, edge down. No more than one second should pass from oven to quench on ANY high carbon steel, so have the quench close.
80CrV2 is different and needs a higher temp for austenization or the formation of carbides. It needs to be heated to 1580 F and held for 5 minutes then quench and it will be about 66 HRC. I won't go into tempering, but there is a fairly large difference. A two hour temper at 400 F will put you at 60HRC with 80CrV2. O1 on the other hand it takes two hours at 450 to drop to HRC60. Temper both steels twice.
See how small differences change the final results? You cannot guess too accurately about the final results. I'll stick to O1 for my High Carbon alloy steel. Of course to get the best out of the steels you need a good HT oven to control the heat, but if a forge is all you have then O1 with Vanadium is the way to go.
Hell yeah. I’m making my first knife from 01 now. So far so good. Just finishing the plunge line and the grind. (I am a 15yr Millwright)
Right on! 👍
I'll have to check the alloy online some time. I've been using too much spring steel.
You tubers almost always get a bad rap for being know it alls or for spreading misinformation. I could see an issue if the title of every video was "expert advise from a pro maker" but it's not. I'm not a teacher, you didn't pay to go to my imaginary knife university, I've always said from the start that I'm just some fat guy in a shed with a camera sharing what I've been up to and what works for me. If you learn something along the way, that's a bonus! just my two cents from a you tuber on a long hiatus lol
Would love to see an end to that hiatus ;)
And we miss your videos!!
When is the Matt and jeremy collaboration ?
Wow just yesterday I ran across your channel Mike and was wondering if you’d ever start up again. I for one would really enjoy seeing what you’ve been up to and learning from you.
Cheers
Couldn't agree more Mike. Now get off youtube and do something.. lol jk love ya buddy!
I just started making knives. So far, O-1 tool steel is all I've used. I've treated and tempered successfully. I haven't had any problems. In fact, I started with it because of UA-cam videos saying it's a good beginner steel. I'm happy with it.
I think the issue people have with O1 being or not being a beginner steel is the soak time. It's hard but not impossible to do in a forge. In my opinion at balde thickness you will still get great results from O1 without a soak. O1 was/is my first known steel and I love it.
O1 is great. Easy to work and simple to heat treat in a home shop. Takes a nice satin finish or a high polish pretty easy too. As a beginner knife maker I can say 01 is great to start with, and if you ever need a small tool for scribing, engraving, chiseling etc its so easy to whip one up with this stuff.
I agree 100% with you on O1 tool steel. I took your advice from a previous video and have since then built several knives with no issues with the heat treating process. I have my oxy acetylene set up with a rosebud tip and magnet. I think any issues with knife-making in general has to do with the individual and there knowledge and potential.
One small think about tool steel is that it can "air harden", so that might be something to watch for if you are forging it. I managed to air harden a stubby stick tang I was heating to burn into the handle. I tried to file it after and the file skated off the tang. I've heard tangs can snap if they get accidentally harden, just a small thing to watch for. Steel heat treated fine with charcoal/hairdryer combo. Good steel!
I like how you narrate .... would you please assist in explaining what cold steel is since I'm still new in the knife making
I followed the advice that I gained from your channel and others' and used O1 on my first knife and it turned out far better than I expected it to - it's as sharp as a razor, holds an edge etc.
Great to see so much come out from SLL already in the new year. Hope 2019 is a great one for you and the family. Thanks Jeremy.
Thank you sir! I appreciate that. 🙏
I have never made a knife myself, but am eager to give it a try. I too read on a steel supplier website that O1 is not a great steel for knife making. Thanks for clearing that up!
You bet. I wouldn't take a strong stance if I hadn't tried it myself and I feel 100% about recommending O-1 to new makers. In fact, I get excited because I know how great it is to work with. Cheers👍
I was confused and thought I clicked on the wrong video for a minute. I am a huge espresso fan.
O1 is not just for "beginners". Look at Jacklore in the UK, certainly an advanced maker and I think he is still working with primarily O1. A heck of a lot of old and some new woodworking tools are made from this material. I work with it and 1095 and find the O1 more than satisfactory for most all applications.
Jeremy, I rarely comment on UA-cam vids, mostly because I usually watch via a Roku device on my big screen, but I just have to jump in and say something regarding this 0-1 controversy. I now own several of your knives and I know that at least two are made of 0-1. Of those two, I have used, abused, and beat the daylights out of one of them and it still gets as sharp as the day it arrived. It would probably be even better if I could ever master the Wicked Edge I woke up with after a trip to Vegas I can’t seem to recall. Seriously though, while steel plays a key role in a knife’s outcome, the majority of a knife’s quality is poured into it by the maker. And you, Sir, are Master IMHO. Now, if I could only get you to make a kitchen/BBQ knife for me.
Thank you Todd! I really do appreciate that. Glad to hear the knives are holding up well. And we should make the bbq knife happen for you this year! 👍
Simple Little Life Yes we should. 👍🏻👊🏻🤙🏻🙏🏻
O-1 is an excellent steel, but just reading the Heat Treater's Guide will give you an indication of whether or not you have the equipment to heat treat it properly. Hardening: Heat slowly. Preheat at 1200 °F. Austenitize at 1450 to 1500 °F for 10 to 30 min, then quench in oil. Quenched hardness, 63 to 65 HRC. If you are able follow that heat treating recipe, by all means use O-1.
Take a look at Kevin Cashen's website (Cashen Blades), and you will find some insights on commonly used steels, including O-1.
o1 is really forgiving, but it has lots of potential. I have done fancy cryo treatments with o1 that took 8h to complete and the edge retention is phenomenal.
I use O1 to make knives and a couple years ago when I realized I am not giving the O1 it's true potential without temperature control; I decided to look more into 1070 - 1084 HC. My local metal supply for some reason can't get any of them, so I looked around online in Canada and eventually States side. In the end it will cost way more to get my hands on 1080, whether it's source in Canada or from the States. As a hobbyist O1 is actually less expense to obtain, since I am not placing bulk orders, over the likes of 1070, 1080, and 1084, and so far I have had some really good results. Could the heat treating methods be better? absolutely, but that doesn't change that it is still simple to heat treat. Would 1080 benefit better from a more simple heat treat? sure, but for me it's not easy to get a hold of.
15N20, good steel cheap easy I'm the HT
The only time I got O-1 to harden correctly was a random experiment I did with linseed oil. Not sure why it wouldn't work in vegetable oil for me.
Should a knife (made by Battle Horse Knives) of O1 tool steel be damaged (little chunks of it came out) from a ferro rod? I tried to start a fire and after a couple of strikes I noticed there were little pieces of the spine were being taken off. Should I have expected this? Is it a heat treating problem?
I would certainly say that is a problem.
Simple Little Life Should there be ANY damage from the ferry rod? They aren’t huge chips out of the spine, probably half the size of a grain of sand.
No there shouldn’t be any damage. I’ve used a ferro rod a lot with O-1 knives that I’ve made and I don’t have any damage at all. Something is definitely off. Unless there is something really weird about the ferro rod.
Simple Little Life Does it depend on the retro rod? Maybe the composition of the ferry rod I used was unusually hard or something? I don’t know.
Jeremy, thanks for your continued sharing of hard-learned knowledge while on the knife-making journey.
Thank you very much. I appreciate that. 🙏👍
do o1 and 1095 work? yes you can make a perfectly usable knife from it. edge geometry is much more important than steel selection, and in your first couple knives getting good edge geometry is what your likely gonna struggle with. however your losing all of the benefits of using o1 or 1095 over simpler steels if your not gonna heat treat it accurately, so your better off getting some 1080 or 1084 that you can heat treat pretty well with a torch or forge.
Just starting on blades, thanks for the info on O-1 another good video
Thank you.
thr best steel for beginners is whatever you can easily get your hands on. one of my early blades ( about 25 yrs ago) was 01, had no problems. next i tried l6 ,old sawmill blades, now that is a mongrel steel. currently i use D2 cos i came across a 2"x4" sheet of it. pretty hard to work with but very forgiving in heat treat. Once you sort through all the mindless moronic crap... youtube is a fantastic resource for learning. I reckon you should name and shame that supplier, soooooo annoying when you arent sure what you want and the rude prick behind the counter treats you like a fool for not knowing the right inhouse terminology.
O-1 when properly heat treated is an excellent knife steel. If a person puts a good hard polish on the steel and takes care of the knife (like they would do with any item of value) then corrosion isn't a problem either. O-1 also takes a really nice rust blue finish which is a great little diversion from the normal polished finish...and it's cheap. I also use some of the stainless grades and D2 as well, but I'll always use good old O-1 in my knives. I sometimes liken the forum discussions on knife steels to the discussions I read about accuracy in hunting rifles where doing this or that will gain a person 1/4 MOA @ 200 yds..in an environment where "close enough is good enough". There are a lot of "steel snobs" running around out there. :-)
I'm a new knife maker and on your recommendation have been using 01-tool steel and have not had one problem.
I heat treat O1 like 1084 and get good results every time.I have said that in forums and really riled folks up 😅
Hahahaha! I could imagine it sure would get some folks fired up😆👍
Is it bad that I know exactly what website and where it says the quote about O1 misinformation?
I also started with 01 and continue to have great results with it, even with less than ideal heat treat. I always recommend it or the plain carbon steels when people ask.
I was looking for more o1 tool steel because my son and I have finally started making things. I found their website, read that and it clicked my memory of you calling them out about their comment. Now I know where it was :) My won sent you an email for viewer's knives of his first knife.
hi, nice video!!! this heat treat would be ok for O1??? grinding the knife, and then put in the forge until 1160ºF and cool in the air. then put in the forge until 1470ºF and quench in 160ºF oil, and cool until the oil comes 160ºF again, then inmediatly temper in the oven at 400ºF for 2h and cooling in the air, temper twice. it would be a good way to heat treat O1 in forge?????? thanks a lot.
Hi my friend!! Nice info!!! Using a simple 2 bricks forge do you think that is a good heat treatment that?????: normalizing twice at 1350°F cooling in the air, then hardening at 1475°F and quench in 150°F oil until cooling the blade at 150°F, then inmediately temper twice at 400°F for two hours cooling in the air. What do you think???? Thanks a lot my friend!!!!
I love using O1. Can get it at a decent price right down the road. Heat treat oven is needed though. Most of my big knives are O1. Also using O1 on a straight razor.
Love your channel and off topic question. I noticed the portable bandsaw with what looks like a flat base made for it is that something you made and added a base for it? Thanks have a great day and appreciate you
Jeremy....is there a story to be told about the Abe Lincoln photo or did I miss it.?
Did he ever make that Alec Steele knife?
He was way too busy, coz he used to do a lot of preorders and was hugely backed up. He’s changed his system for this year and he hopes that he’s gonna have a lot more time and to get it done this year
Hey, I have a question: what's the best way to use and cut as round stick piece for handed with out an Lethe or a milling machine? Because I'm new to knife making but I want to make folding knives ( pocketknives)??thank you
How does 1095 compare to 01 steel? I’ve only used 1095 and found it really easy. Slowly heat soak to non magnetic and dunk in parks 50. Then throw in oven at 400f -425f for 2 1 hour cycles and it’s done. Maybe I just been lucky.
I bought a half gallon of ferric chloride 43%. Can you tell me how to mix about half of it with water and vinegar???? Also, what do you recommend for quench oil?? Thank you
I’ve used O1 for years and it’s my go to, maybe from habit but I’m trying to make a complex hilt for my fencing long sword and I’m not sure if it’s my best option
Hi there sir.... What is the name of the first song track? Awesome videograpphy too🤩😍
I can’t imagine why anyone would give this a thumbs down.
Always appreciate your insights and bringing us along for the ride. God bless.
Those are the guys from knife steel supply. I started with O1, and if you get a heat treat oven you can bring out its very best.
01 is also one of the only HC steels i can get at local shops
Yeah I hear that from a lot of people.
Part of that o1 quote he showed also said 1095 is a bad beginner blade steel. I've been making knives for about a year and have used exclusively 1095 and heat treated with a campfire and canola oil and I'm getting results that I'm pretty happy with, sure they could be better with a heat treat oven and specialized oil, but they are still skating a file with ease. Anyone know why it's referred to as a bad steel for beginners/should I switch if its the cheapest steel i can get and am getting good results?
When people leave a comment on forums/site etc similar to "O1 is not a good steel for beginners,," do they leave their preferred choice as an alternative for peer appraisal on their opinion? Probably not I'm guessing. My view is O1 is a good beginner steel but from a reliable consistent source so there are no composition variances to affect heat treat/temper, my first supplier sent 3 different company's in 4 deliveries, all different. Afterwards I use a German source, all identical from then on.
Yes, BBB left a very informative comment on this video but it seems to have been removed? Odd
Would you share your O1 heat treat with us? I have seen different formulas floating around, mostly the temper temperature! Thanks!
Thank your for making such cinematic knife videos! 👍🏻
You're welcome! 🙏
You should look into getting a scale and some other stuff to speed up your shipping process at home we’ve gotten to the point where we can drop it off all our packages and leave in 5 minutes pay for everything online before hand. Just an idea for someone who doesn’t enjoy spending the better half of an hour or two in line lol. 👍
1080 is probably a better steel for beginners. O1 also probably has closer specs, especially back in the day. Might be why people used to recommend it.
A fire pit in the back yard and leaf blower will get the temp hot enough. My son heat treated his (he's 12) and he had a magnet and I had a high temp laser thermometer that goes up to 2250F. We checked it and it got to 1550 - 1600 and then he dunked it. He's sooooo hooked on knife making now. Can't wait to see his picture / knife in the next Viewer's Knives.
Great vid! Hey, i wanna ask you something. I don't have a specific liquid in what i'm quenching. I've quenched in normal watter, in heated water and i've quenched in used motor oil and i've had the same results with both of the liquids. So, i wanna ask, should i use further the burnt motor oil, is it good? Cause, some people say used motor oil is not good, but i've had pretty good results with it, especially when i quench axes in it. I mean, after quenching in used motor oil and tempering, i'm able to cut nails with the axe without damaging it. I say that's a pretty good result. Thanks!
A little late but the biggest problem with motor oil is toxic fumes. Canola from the grocery store works great
Had to stop to get some coffee, and then looked at and said, while pointing at the monitor, "that's what you're supposed to look like!" I kid, great video, and enjoyed it.
I've never used 01, but it's on my "to-try" list. I wouldn't use it for forging, but for stock removal it seems to be decent.
Mate I have only used O1 so far, might try stainless one day but that will double the cost and I am dubious that it will be better besides corrosion resistance.
O1 is fantastic, anyone who says otherwise is probably trying to sell you something.
Love watching you use all those tools...one day.
True...My first knife was 1/16, O1 tool steel. I heat treated it with a "two firebrick" forge and I was able to skin 4 wild hogs without touching it up. Now...you might get a little more from proper heat treating but I was satisfied. I now send my blanks out for proper heat treating. Honestly, I can't tell the difference but I do it for a proper HRC reading
Looks great is their a taper on the tang of this knife
there is an article from the steel supplier I use about beginner steels that says "Go on youtube and you'll be told that O1 or 1095 are really good beginner steels - they are not! Both really need exact heat treatments in tempreature controlled kilns to get the most from the steel!"
"The unsolvable complexity of Japanese knife names"😂😂😂
my 2 cents: I think people see youtube videos and see a guy go tap tap with a magnet and plunge it into oil and think "oh its that easy" and then when they get mixed results or decarb the blade by overheating it or cooking it too long, they complain to the dealer and demand money back for 'obviously' selling them poor steel. ive had good luck with O1 and 1095. i had a few that would lose their edge quicker than id like. but i found anti-scale compound for forge heat treating and now i get more consistent results. way better choices than a precipitation hardening steel or stainless for beginners. if it were much harder than heat treating 1095/O1 i might not have kept with it
I started with 1095 and o1....both were easy. I still use them. Just do some research. It is easy and uncomplicated to use both these steels. Thanks for your videos
will it work? yes. your edge geometry will matter a lot more than your heat treatment, however you will get much better performance with 1084 or 1095.
Anyone else notice the autofocus having trouble with the light in the window in the background?
I sure did 😆👍 Drive me nuts!
I consider myself a novice knife maker, but, I have had very good success heat treating O1 tool steel so I'm not sure what these people are talking about
Yeah I just don't get where that comes from either.
Dont you need to keep O1 at temperature (810 degrees C) for around 10 minutes to get a proper heat treatment? :S
It is required that you soak for at least 5 mins if you want to get the most out of the steel you can. You CAN just heat it up to critical and quench, and you’ll be fine but you’ll be missing out on the benefit of having 1% carbon (1095/O1/W1).
It really isn’t hard to soak even with a forge. It’s just constant pulling in and out. That’s how I do it.
I wouldn’t necessarily say they are NOT for beginners. I’m a beginner, and I use 1095 and W1 exclusively.
Now something like A2, D2, or CPM-3v... THAT’S what I consider steels not for beginners.
Those blueish pieces of material you are going to use, are they wood? You call them burl so it makes me think they a re wood but they look acrylic. Beautiful whatever they are. :)
Yeah they actually are dyed and stabilized burls. Fairly nice to work with too! 👍
@@Simplelittlelife Very cool, will be a beautiful knife. :)
Have you ever tried making a folding lock blade knife
I haven’t but they look like a fun challenge 👍
Forgive me if i am wrong, Alberta is in Canada? You mention living the American dream in your discription , do you consider yourself American, surely not!
I am not a knife maker, would like to be, but respect and admire your skills, and your video presentation is adictable, keep up the good work, cheers...
I haven't watched this all yet, so I don't know where you are heading. I will say that anyone who is getting butthurt because a company is trying to warn, potential customers, that they might be purchasing metal they don't need. That's what a suppliers job is. Not just sell it but make sure it is the right material for your purposes. So kudos for that company standing up and not just taking your money knowing you are over paying for something you don't need or are very likely to mess up.
FEEDBACK: If your goal is to convert first time visitors into new subscribers, it's somewhat counterproductive to make them sit through 2 full minutes of irrelevance before finally getting on topic. Just sayin.
Edit: Finished watching. Some insightful info ... thanks.👍
I couldnt agree more. i was put off by that companys verbage too. ive made most of my knives with o1 and i have tested them personally and have had rave reviews about the edge retention and durability. Those comments are nothing to worry about. O1 is by far my favorite blade steel.
Most relaxing intro EVER🔪
Thank you!
Hey! Tuesday next week around supper and again Sunday morning-ish make sure to send a wave out to HWY 1 :-D We'll be rolling through heading to the mountains. Somewhere more tropical!!! Not sure if you're down with random strangers popping by, but also not sure my crippled self should be on your hockey rink, and I'm not sure what our time looks like anyways. Definitely going straight to the Olive Garden and then the hotel on Tuesday! haha
Take care (please send heat)
O-1 is fantastic. It's all I ever used and always resulted in a solid, reliable, end product.
What espresso machine you use?
I could have told you that Polymer Ebony doesn't like to be Machined... Unless you're turning it on a Lathe. Anyhow... It's best to shape it with Wood Working Tools, or cut it roughly to shape and grind it to it's final dimensions
Hope that helps ^.^
Does anyone know what steel is used for Bahco files? Wondering if it would make a good knife.
I can only afford Chinese files.
I'm sure if Walter Sorrells recommends it (o1) I'm sure it's good.
Oh yeah. He’s the only one who knows anything. Way to limit your options there pal 😆😆😆
There is no "best" steel for knives or for beginners. There are however steels that you dont want to just heat up to red and dunk in any random oil!
agreed. 👍
Yeah well I got here as a result of me buying an expensive custom knife made with O1 tool steel and the damn blade is softer than a Pakistani butterknife smh it arrived very poorly ground and with a total dull edge so I figured "no problem I can regrind by hand and sharpen it myself" yeaaaah well, the files just bit right into the very edge so easily I just kept getting more and more pissed at the maker but I will not name him out of respect just sucks that I paid so much for an unhardened blade...
Great Job!!!!
You don’t have to confirm it, but I wonder if it’s Metal Supermarkets? Hmmmm, I have a problem with their in store customer service at one location, one meathead in particular, and they seem very arrogant towards knife makers.
Anyway, 01 is an amazing carbon steel, the only ‘beginner,’ thing about it is the rudimentary heat treatment opportunity with it for a ‘first knife.’ This way you can make a first knife to keep and own, to scratch that itch, by heating it to cherry red, and plunking it in canola oil no problem. Do you want to make several this way, put your makers mark on it, let it carry your name out in the world...you maybe shouldn’t. Heat treating 01 in a kiln, in a controlled environment is the way to go if your going to take money from other people. Canola oil is used by a lot of people, I won’t go into that argument, but is it condoned by the likes of Master Smith Kevin Cashen, who does more research on metallurgy and quench mediums that any other artisan...the answer is no he does not.
That said, my first knife heated with two MAP torches in a homemade Kiln brick forge, quenched in canola oil, and tempered 4 hrs in total ( 2 x 2hr cycles) at 400F...is still razor sharp and cuts everything I want/need it too 😂👍👍👍
Excellent points there. And no, it wasn't Metal Supermarkets. It's a specialty online knife supply store. 😀 That's too bad you're getting that attitude. All the folks at the MS location I go to think it's really cool and always ask me questions about making knives. Super good folks there....👍
+1 for Metal Supermarkets. My son is interested in knife making and two locations have been very helpful to him. One even lets him come in and donates mild steel off cuts for practice blanks so that he can work out prototypes prior to working up knife with 01. I give you tubers like yourselves a hearty thanks to give curious teenagers a creative outlet. Anything that keeps a 16 y/o off his phone and interested in working on things with their hands. Shame a specialty store wouldn't realise channels like yours are a boon for their business.
@@treynewton3273 Awesome! I am in the same situation as your son (16 starting in knife making), except we don't have any stores like that here in NZ so I have to harvest mine from the scrapyard... :(
I hope you cleaned the coffee crumbs otherwise the simple little wife might beat you.
Great video!
Thank you !
So I've seen guys a with a dialed in, precise, 01 heat treat, with designer oil, and they can get 66 HRC. They then temper the piece to the desired hardness, depending on the use or type of knife. I heat soak it in my forge, preheat canola oil to 120 deg, quench based on color with a magnet as a ball park, and guess what? My tempered knife is just as hard as the precise method after tempering. I may only get 60-62 HRC but I'm tempering it to 58-60 HRC. And yes, I've had my blades tested after my method and it works. It's an oil hardening steel, it's simple. However, it sucks to forge. It REALLY sucks to forge LOL
Have you tried O-2 tool steel?
I never have.
@@Simplelittlelife i have used it for a kitchen knife. It's supposed to be a little tougher i think.
0-1 and 1095 are both great steels. I've made quite a few out of both never had a problem in anyway.both hold an edge really well and there tough. if you have stuff that's better how is it better? is it worth 3 or 4 times the price,can you bend it 180degrees and have it spring back to it's original shape come on guys don't fall for something that was used on a spaceship they sent up to urananus.get better at making knives be honest when you look at it is it good or is it a crappy letter opener you can give to your mother in law so you don't have to get her something good. lol you can tell her I know it looks bad but its made out of the best steel there is because somebody else told me it is.
It is going to look nice when you get it done.
I didn’t hear much about the O1....
I don't bother with anything fancy since I can make great knives out of 1075 and 1084 all day long.
all im gonna say is google the beginning sentence of the quote you will find it >.>