cardboard also contains sand and kinda a graphit (its pretty much like dirt) thats the stuff which dulls your edge but you also can sharpen your knife with a piece of cardboard again if you do strop on it for a while
exacly :) im also a little bit into knife making (about 4 months now) and the metal work is all fine but i have problems to get a nice finish on my micarta scales... can you give me a tip or two? do you have instagram? thank you very much :)
I ht O1 with only the 0.2% Vanadium and hold at 1475 for 15 minutes, not ten. Quench in canola oil thick viscosity oil at 120-130. Temper 425 two time two hours. If you want you can put between blocks of dry ice in a 4 inch thick box for four days. Then do second temper. My O1 filet knives go through 4-5 dozen of thick boned ocean fish before needing a quick strop on 5000 grit diamond compound on leather. Measure hRC60-61. Vanadium is essential for restricting grain growth.
Say Heah William, I hear alot of people throw good sparks with Stainless Steel as long as you have a sharp 90° edge on the spine. If the stainless does throw sparks with a sharp 90° spine. Can you do a video on it. Thanx, Buddy.
+paulie 4x Any sharp edge will throw sparks from a fero rod including glass. I am talking about flint rock against the spine of the knife. Only high carbon steel will do that.
Thanks for the demo of how the two steels hold up. It is really looking like I want mine when you get around to it, in CPM 154. Unless you can think of a reason it should not be.
Benchmade uses cpm154 in the new hunter taggedout. It is the best edc knife I own. It is also the sharpest factory grind I have ever bought. This thing is freaking sharp. It is 3.5 inch blade. And open at 7.84 inches and weight is a amazing 2.1 Oz. It is a blend of the benchmade crooked river and the bugout. Awesome knife.
William, Battle Horse Knives is using CPM154 as well as S30V and plenty other steels. when you custom make your own knife they give you choices in steels.
I love my O1 tool steel. I have a pile of bar stock ends from a plywood mill that are perfect for forging into blades. It doesn't move like 1095 under the hammer but it makes up for that with the ease of heat treatment. I've never been able to get consistent HT with 1095, where as I have always had consistent deep hardening with O1.
+ThrowingItAway 1095 is very temperamental but O1 is a bit for forgiving. I found the air temp, wind, and humidity play a big roll in 1095 so a closed in space works best for 1095 and also preheat the oil is very important.
+William Collins (WC Knives) I forge and quench out doors so it can be a bit frustrating if the wind picks up on me. I'll keep my O1 as I have plenty of it and it's working for me. 1095 will have to wait until I have my own space. I'm thinking of moving to D2 when I'm out of O1 as I don't like how O1 rusts so easily and want to tackle a new metal.
is a bit tricky and needs a well maintained temperature control. Not sure how it would turn out on a forge. I use a kiln for heat treat for that reason. Wish you well at your attempt.
That's amazing edge retention for your O-1! Folks usually consider O-1 an easy to sharpen or touch up steel, and CPM 154 the opposite. How does your heat treat affect that "easy" sharpening of O1? Thanks!
Nice video, thanks for sharing your knoledge. Yes, edge retention is need and most decent knifes will do it enough for me. So my main consern is not to nick the edge. I hate nicks and I want scandi grinds with low angles. So, good steel and heat treat will be something I will look for in knifes. Is there a steel that you would choose for that task? (thin scandi edges) I love my cheap Mora Companion in 12C27, but it get nicked all the time. So I would go to a carbon steel if that would be solved. I do have some knifes in 3V, but I just don't have enough use to say anything about it yet. and the edge is very different, it's a convex. Any sugestions?
this video may help. ua-cam.com/video/KNMPw6dpW44/v-deo.html scandi edges are the thinnest edge and are susceptible to either chipping or rolling. a good O1 tool steel with the proper heat treat will work but still best to apply a convexed edge or a micro bevel as discussed in the attached video. 3 V steels is great but don't let it get dull or resharpening it is a real pain.
Hi, I wanted to ask you a tip, I would like to make me a good bushcraft knife with 10 cm blade to carry with me on trips in nature, choosing the steel wanting to stay on stainless steel, I recommend a 440C well tempered to 57 / 59 hrc which should have a decent wire hold but is it fairly straightforward to be sharpened in nature, or a more modern powdery steel such as S35VN or CPM154 that holds more sharp but is also more complicated to sharpen in nature? Let me know what you think, Thank you Michele.
William , get some 3/4'' or 1'' manila rope and do a comparison . A lot of makers use this rope and push cuts to check edge retention and to get the most out of heat treating a certain steel. Im going to also try this with my 1084 and 5160 knives . Id love to see how many cuts each steel can get with different heat treatments .
For one, its the same diameter around the whole length of the rope, so every cut will be the same amount of cutting. And why the hemp rope? Im not sure, i just know it is a standard for a lot of knife makers, that was started by Wayne Goddard yrs ago. there is a lot of data out there for comparison also. And its a lot easier to manage during the test.
ok, its just the length of the cuts aren't the same, and with the rope, you will see a change in the edge way before you will see it in cardboard . makes testing two different steels or heat treatments easier and takes less time.
You definitely got them heat treats down pat on both steels. I think the main difference is one will produce sparks with flint but it'll rust pretty dang quick if you aren't careful. and the other is dang near completely stainless! Just walking around with a neck sheath on in my area produces a blade and sheath that is completely soaked within an hour...so corrosion resistance is paramount here. I've taken O1 knives out that were completely covered in tallow and had them turn brown over night. Now all my old hickories are pre-browned and it doesn't matter, but on a beautiful custom it's a real heart breaker. Your CPM 154 is in my opinion the best steel out there. It holds an edge awesome, and I don't have to baby it. Now, if we could just come up with a soft liner in the kydex that would keep it from scratching up the blades so bad...
+briargoatkilla LOL, I hate that part of kydex as well. I thought about a liner but also thought it would trap sand and grit more than just having the kydex. Appreciate the comment brother and hope you guy's are not floating where you are.
+William Collins (WC Knives) Total destruction in my hometown of Columbia, SC, but I'm high and dry at my house in the NC mountains. All my people are well. Many not so lucky, though. It's the worst flood in history down there.
just found cpm154 in the new kershaw launch series in production, suprised me. Only knife I have in it now is my Frank James Custom. what do you feel more confident in for your heat treat. Do you have a website or fb page I can check out more of your work on?
+Christopher Herinckx Face book. facebook.com/WC-Knives-512674285457159/ also you tube is the other best way here is a playlist of designs and past work. ua-cam.com/video/6nNSgX0ah6A/v-deo.html
+Christopher Herinckx Confident in all of my heat treat or the knife gets remade before handles. O1 may have its advantage because I have worked with it longer than the crucibles.
I know I’ve been using my 01 MasterWoodsman hard and at times foolishly hard and don’t see a need to strop as of yet. She’s been out on 5-7 day hikes and seen plenty of action during the time. Heat treat is the soul of the blade 4sure.
Good info. I've made a few blades with O1 & there great. A2 air hardening steel is good stuff also. Next is my 24" MACHETE . I found a HUGE .187" thick 2.5" x 24" HIGH SPEED STEEL planer blade blank (never sharpened) at the Goodwill for a couple dollars. My woodshop has smaller HSS joiner & planer blades & holy SHIT do they get sharp & hold an edge! Not fun to work & shape, but worth it.
The fastest dulling material on the planet is the packing material "foam rubber or styrofoam". Try and edge retention test with either of those material and you will find out which steel hold and edge best very quickly.
+keith moore I use the stock removal method. The heat treat temps must be precise as with all crucible steels so I would recommend using a kiln. Never tried the dog rawhides. Appreciate your view and comment.
Say Heah William, Yeah, Thanx William for sharing your knowledge really helped me look at my CM 154 blades differently, I only have a couple of blades in the CM 154 because I thought like alot of guys until I learned from you, WoW Thanx William, I bought these way before I knew you, Ones a Blackbird SK-5 and the other one is a Browning Independence and the only reason I got it was for its orange handle to go with my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and the Ranger RD-9 But now I look at this steel differently Thanx to you.
Say heah William, Yeah, ever since I've seen this video, I've looked at the 154CM Stainless, I don't have any knives in the CPM, but I have some production knives in the CM , I know the CPM is much better, But my CM versions are pretty good . It sharpens alittle harder but the exchange their my wet and snowy weather knives, Great review. ,, .
Basic heat treat methods are listed on this web site. You will need to try temps and durations several times to see what works best for your equipment and geographic location. What works for me may not work for you. This is the web site that will get you close on your heat treat. www.hudsontoolsteel.com
Seahawk.Customs.Pc I make and sell them. Only heat treat my own. This channel is filled with my custom designed knives or I make knives to customer specs and designs.
Old video, I stopped doing custom builds in 2018. You can visit my home website to see what popular models I have and dealers to purchase them from. Appreciate your view.
Say Heah William, Which steel is easier to sharpen in the bush, And is the difference between the CPM 154 and the CM 154 that noticeable to the user. I know the the CM 154 is flowed hot where the CPM 154 is a powder welded into a bullet and is much cleaner not as much impurities. But since the sharp edge/cutting ability is important, Does a user notice that much difference between the two. Thanx in advance
Thanx, So it is harder to sharpen, I guess you can use a DC 4 Fallkniven Sharpener will work in the field, What is the difference to you between the two and no wing your getting the best because it is more expensive. But how much better does the edge holds, can you measure that, so I can understand it bettrr, Right now it's as clear as mud to me. Thanx in advance
+paulie 4x I didn't say that. I said "I didn't notice a difference in sharpening but I use diamond stones" so that may be why I don't notice a difference. This is a edge retention comparison of CPM 154 and O1 for my knives. I can't say what results other knives from other makers would result. ua-cam.com/video/OWhiYK8a8_M/v-deo.html
Sorry William, I wasn't trying to put you on the spot. But the 154 looks like a blade material maybe on my next knife. Just learning, that's all..Thanx, William.
Do you have any recommendations of a steel that has a high edge retention, high toughness, and is easy to sharpen? By easy to sharpen I mean that I can strop for less that five minutes WITHOUT compound and still achieve hair shaving results.
No such thing. Any steel that holds a good edge or tough will not be that easy to sharpen. Just a mater of physics. What dulls a knife will sharpen a knife so easy to sharpen per your suggested standard would be a very soft steel so not hold a very good edge or be very tough. I find a happy medium between edge retention and toughness is a well heat treated O1 or 1095. All stainless is harder steel than a carbon steel like o1 or 1095 so no stainless.
William Collins makes sense, but between 1095 and 01, which is best? Two days ago I got a message saying that 3v fits that image, and that people say it’s great on a plain strop, what’s the truth in that? I’m looking for a steel which I depicted earlier, but it also needs to be able to fillet a wet fish, and then go the rest of the day without rusting, any help?
I have test comparison video on the 3v and o1 that is heat treated properly and don't see any reason to pay the high price for the 3v in real world use. O1, 1095 and 3v are all carbon steels and will rust if not maintained. Of the three I prefer O1. I think O1 is a very good steel that holds a great edge and is easy to sharpen. Not to impressed with 3v compared to the price increase between it and O1 however 3v will hold up to a very thin edge compared to O1 and is a little bit more rust resistant than o1 and 1095 but not a stainless. 1095 is a basic good carbon steel but does seam to rust quicker than O1. There isn't a stainless steel that will sharpen with only a strop without buffing compound. All will require a stone and I prefer diamond stones. D2 is a good stainless steel that is reasonably priced but will require a stone to sharpen. CPM 1654 in this video is a great stainless steel but very expensive and will require a stone. CPM s35vn is another great stainless steel but again will require a diamond stone. All of this is dependent on proper heat treat. if the steel isn't properly heat treated then nothing is good about it.
William Collins I agree with most of what you said, but the fact that you said that ANY stainless steel cannot be sharpened by a bare strop is wrong, because mora uses 12c27 stainless and it’s very very easy to sharpen. Anyway, thanks for your help, do you know any good stainless steels (other than 12c27) that sharpens easy and is comparable to 1095/01?
Frederik Kjaer I have several 12c27 knives and it is a good Mesolithic stainless steel but I suppose it depends on you definition of sharpening. Leather will clean the edge and straighten the bit but will not remove steel as the definition of sharpening does. Not sure why you ask so many questions if you already had a stainless you liked but appreciate your view.
+matthew collins I know Kershaw makes 154 CM knives but haven't seen any with CPM 154. There is a difference. CPM is 154 steel that has been broken down into a powder form and remade. It is a crucible steel. 154 CM is not a crucible steel and so the steel molicules are not as tight as CPM 154.
+William Collins (WC Knives) holding it in front of me with a couple articles proving it is real cpm154 Don't get me wrong custom made knives are beautiful and I would never dream of putting someone Down that has mastered that craft I'm simply informing you that companies of high quality have in fact put cpm154 into production
+matthew collins I just did a Google search and you are correct, Kershaw is launching a new line of knives with CPM 154. Appreciate the heads up. At the time of this video there wasn't any to my knowledge.
cardboard also contains sand and kinda a graphit (its pretty much like dirt) thats the stuff which dulls your edge but you also can sharpen your knife with a piece of cardboard again if you do strop on it for a while
Rowen all true, if you think about it anything that dulls a knife will also sharpen a knife. Appreciate your view and comment.
exacly :) im also a little bit into knife making (about 4 months now) and the metal work is all fine but i have problems to get a nice finish on my micarta scales... can you give me a tip or two? do you have instagram? thank you very much :)
Rowen yes, I am on Facebook and Instagram @williamcollins4918. Be happy to help. Send me an email and tell me the problem. Williamcollins@wcknives.com
It was funny that both knifes keep going. A real working test. Thanks. I'll check out more of your videos.
Thanks, hope you enjoy my channel and become a subscriber.
I appreciate you doing the test......i was wondering the same thing since you started offering the CPM......good job William.
Thanks! Appreciate your support.
I ht O1 with only the 0.2% Vanadium and hold at 1475 for 15 minutes, not ten. Quench in canola oil thick viscosity oil at 120-130. Temper 425 two time two hours. If you want you can put between blocks of dry ice in a 4 inch thick box for four days. Then do second temper. My O1 filet knives go through 4-5 dozen of thick boned ocean fish before needing a quick strop on 5000 grit diamond compound on leather. Measure hRC60-61. Vanadium is essential for restricting grain growth.
Say Heah William, I hear alot of people throw good sparks with Stainless Steel as long as you have a sharp 90° edge on the spine. If the stainless does throw sparks with a sharp 90° spine. Can you do a video on it. Thanx, Buddy.
+paulie 4x Any sharp edge will throw sparks from a fero rod including glass. I am talking about flint rock against the spine of the knife. Only high carbon steel will do that.
Oh Ok, I stand corrected, Thanx, William.
Love the real use tests. Hoping for more in the future! :)
Thanks, have many already on my channel.
Hey William, I never would have thought either one would have lasted. Take care and God bless.
+MUTT N.C. Surprised me too. Thanks!
Thanks for the demo of how the two steels hold up. It is really looking like I want mine when you get around to it, in CPM 154. Unless you can think of a reason it should not be.
+Jerry Morris Completely up to you my friend. Appreciate your support.
Benchmade uses cpm154 in the new hunter taggedout. It is the best edc knife I own. It is also the sharpest factory grind I have ever bought. This thing is freaking sharp. It is 3.5 inch blade. And open at 7.84 inches and weight is a amazing 2.1 Oz. It is a blend of the benchmade crooked river and the bugout. Awesome knife.
I have several Benchmade’s.
That was a cool test i would have thought they would have both stated to loose some edge towards the end you make a quality knife my friend atb John
+Turtle Bushcraft Surprised myself, thanks!
William, Battle Horse Knives is using CPM154 as well as S30V and plenty other steels. when you custom make your own knife they give you choices in steels.
+Bradley Birmingham Good to know appreciate the info.
Super steel, and super duper steel!
+TJack LOL, thanks!
Those are some sharp knives and very good quality
+The_kid Thank you!
I love my O1 tool steel. I have a pile of bar stock ends from a plywood mill that are perfect for forging into blades. It doesn't move like 1095 under the hammer but it makes up for that with the ease of heat treatment. I've never been able to get consistent HT with 1095, where as I have always had consistent deep hardening with O1.
+ThrowingItAway 1095 is very temperamental but O1 is a bit for forgiving. I found the air temp, wind, and humidity play a big roll in 1095 so a closed in space works best for 1095 and also preheat the oil is very important.
+William Collins (WC Knives) I forge and quench out doors so it can be a bit frustrating if the wind picks up on me. I'll keep my O1 as I have plenty of it and it's working for me. 1095 will have to wait until I have my own space.
I'm thinking of moving to D2 when I'm out of O1 as I don't like how O1 rusts so easily and want to tackle a new metal.
is a bit tricky and needs a well maintained temperature control. Not sure how it would turn out on a forge. I use a kiln for heat treat for that reason. Wish you well at your attempt.
I'm really temped to get a HT oven so when that happens I'll try some new steels to see what I like.
That's amazing edge retention for your O-1! Folks usually consider O-1 an easy to sharpen or touch up steel, and CPM 154 the opposite. How does your heat treat affect that "easy" sharpening of O1? Thanks!
+CoastalBackWoods see no difference in ease of sharpening.
Nice video, thanks for sharing your knoledge.
Yes, edge retention is need and most decent knifes will do it enough for me.
So my main consern is not to nick the edge. I hate nicks and I want scandi grinds with low angles. So, good steel and heat treat will be something I will look for in knifes.
Is there a steel that you would choose for that task? (thin scandi edges)
I love my cheap Mora Companion in 12C27, but it get nicked all the time. So I would go to a carbon steel if that would be solved.
I do have some knifes in 3V, but I just don't have enough use to say anything about it yet. and the edge is very different, it's a convex.
Any sugestions?
this video may help. ua-cam.com/video/KNMPw6dpW44/v-deo.html scandi edges are the thinnest edge and are susceptible to either chipping or rolling. a good O1 tool steel with the proper heat treat will work but still best to apply a convexed edge or a micro bevel as discussed in the attached video. 3 V steels is great but don't let it get dull or resharpening it is a real pain.
Thanks, will watch it right now.
Hi, I wanted to ask you a tip, I would like to make me a good bushcraft knife with 10 cm blade to carry with me on trips in nature, choosing the steel wanting to stay on stainless steel, I recommend a 440C well tempered to 57 / 59 hrc which should have a decent wire hold but is it fairly straightforward to be sharpened in nature, or a more modern powdery steel such as S35VN or CPM154 that holds more sharp but is also more complicated to sharpen in nature?
Let me know what you think, Thank you Michele.
S35vn isn't more difficult to sharpen than 440c. In fact it is probably less difficult. 35vn would be my choice.
William , get some 3/4'' or 1'' manila rope and do a comparison . A lot of makers use this rope and push cuts to check edge retention and to get the most out of heat treating a certain steel. Im going to also try this with my 1084 and 5160 knives . Id love to see how many cuts each steel can get with different heat treatments .
+bobby keller Not shure how the rope would be different than card board. let me know how your test go.
For one, its the same diameter around the whole length of the rope, so every cut will be the same amount of cutting. And why the hemp rope? Im not sure, i just know it is a standard for a lot of knife makers, that was started by Wayne Goddard yrs ago. there is a lot of data out there for comparison also. And its a lot easier to manage during the test.
+bobby keller Cardboard is the same thickness as well but I may try it sometimes appreciate the suggestion.
ok, its just the length of the cuts aren't the same, and with the rope, you will see a change in the edge way before you will see it in cardboard . makes testing two different steels or heat treatments easier and takes less time.
+bobby keller thanks for the info.
You definitely got them heat treats down pat on both steels. I think the main difference is one will produce sparks with flint but it'll rust pretty dang quick if you aren't careful. and the other is dang near completely stainless! Just walking around with a neck sheath on in my area produces a blade and sheath that is completely soaked within an hour...so corrosion resistance is paramount here. I've taken O1 knives out that were completely covered in tallow and had them turn brown over night. Now all my old hickories are pre-browned and it doesn't matter, but on a beautiful custom it's a real heart breaker. Your CPM 154 is in my opinion the best steel out there. It holds an edge awesome, and I don't have to baby it. Now, if we could just come up with a soft liner in the kydex that would keep it from scratching up the blades so bad...
+briargoatkilla LOL, I hate that part of kydex as well. I thought about a liner but also thought it would trap sand and grit more than just having the kydex. Appreciate the comment brother and hope you guy's are not floating where you are.
+William Collins (WC Knives) Total destruction in my hometown of Columbia, SC, but I'm high and dry at my house in the NC mountains. All my people are well. Many not so lucky, though. It's the worst flood in history down there.
Sorry about your home town but happy you and you family are safe. I have been hearing reports that SC was being hammered.
just found cpm154 in the new kershaw launch series in production, suprised me. Only knife I have in it now is my Frank James Custom. what do you feel more confident in for your heat treat. Do you have a website or fb page I can check out more of your work on?
+Christopher Herinckx Face book. facebook.com/WC-Knives-512674285457159/ also you tube is the other best way here is a playlist of designs and past work. ua-cam.com/video/6nNSgX0ah6A/v-deo.html
+Christopher Herinckx Confident in all of my heat treat or the knife gets remade before handles. O1 may have its advantage because I have worked with it longer than the crucibles.
Awesome, I like your work. Thanks for the quick response. I will be in touch.
Cardboard is highly abrasive and gives a very good edge retention test
+Cal Zackary Yes it does, Thanks!
I know I’ve been using my 01 MasterWoodsman hard and at times foolishly hard and don’t see a need to strop as of yet. She’s been out on 5-7 day hikes and seen plenty of action during the time.
Heat treat is the soul of the blade 4sure.
Glad to hear that. Yep heat treat is very important.
William can you get a mirror polish on CPM 154 and what are the roc well differences? Thanks
Yes you can get a mirror finish. CPM 154 Rockwell is 58-60 and O1 is around 61.
William Collins
Thanks brother!
Good info. I've made a few blades with O1 & there great. A2 air hardening steel is good stuff also. Next is my 24" MACHETE . I found a HUGE .187" thick 2.5" x 24" HIGH SPEED STEEL planer blade blank (never sharpened) at the Goodwill for a couple dollars. My woodshop has smaller HSS joiner & planer blades & holy SHIT do they get sharp & hold an edge! Not fun to work & shape, but worth it.
Jay Dee yep made several with A2 I like it. The knife I use in the shop now is A2. Watch some of my latest videos and you will see it.
impressive
+Belnap Custom Knives Thanks!
@@wcknives.all of these guys
How do they compare when working on them ? Grinding, cutting it to shape, drilling it etc ? I assume CPM 154 is harder to work on ?
dave davies yes, prior to heat treat CPM steels use twice the sanding belts.
What is the name of that knife and how big is it, blade and handle? Looks like a great EDC, all purpose knife.
+Elwha Have not named it. Blade is about 3.5" and handle 4.5". Appreciate the view and comment.
Good test Sir. Do you still make blades in o1 steel ?
Thomas Honea yes sir, almost every day. Do more in AEB-L though.
@@wcknives thank you for your reply Sir.
The fastest dulling material on the planet is the packing material "foam rubber or styrofoam". Try and edge retention test with either of those material and you will find out which steel hold and edge best very quickly.
littlejpl cardboard in a gritty dusty shop is a pretty good indicator as well. Appreciate your view and thoughts.
Man I bet your arm is gonna itch like crazy in a few days. That's dedication to quality! Lol
+Survivalnoob1 LOL, thanks!
ever try dog chew rawhide for a test medium? this stainless a cut, grind and temper or can it be worked I a forge?
+keith moore I use the stock removal method. The heat treat temps must be precise as with all crucible steels so I would recommend using a kiln. Never tried the dog rawhides. Appreciate your view and comment.
just wonderin, raw hide works pretty good on belt axes for cutting depth
Appreciate the info.
Say Heah William, Yeah, Thanx William for sharing your knowledge really helped me look at my CM 154 blades differently, I only have a couple of blades in the CM 154 because I thought like alot of guys until I learned from you, WoW Thanx William, I bought these way before I knew you, Ones a Blackbird SK-5 and the other one is a Browning Independence and the only reason I got it was for its orange handle to go with my O. K. C. Ranger Afghan and the Ranger RD-9 But now I look at this steel differently Thanx to you.
There is a difference between CM 154 and CPM 154. CPM 154 is a powdered crucible steel.
Yes and more expensive, Have you compared the difference between powder and furnaces the same ingredients ? Thanx in advance
i think ontarios blackbird sk5 is in cm 154....is 154cm the same as 154 cpm
It just the expert heat treat and making :)
cool test. I'm gonna have to test some knives with cardboard.
+ThePatriot4freedom Let me know how they do. Thanks!
CPM154 and O1, which one do you prefer？
Steven HaHa between the two I prefer O1 but for the kitchen or coastal you should probably go with CPM 154
Impressive. Especially since the blades aren't really thin and still shaved hair afterwards.
Thanks!
will a scandi be even better edge retention wise?
christopher martin edge retention is from type of steel and heat treat not the grind. Different grinds dictate slicing ability.
Say heah William, Yeah, ever since I've seen this video, I've looked at the 154CM Stainless, I don't have any knives in the CPM, but I have some production knives in the CM , I know the CPM is much better, But my CM versions are pretty good . It sharpens alittle harder but the exchange their my wet and snowy weather knives, Great review. ,, .
are you willing to give out your heat treat method?
Basic heat treat methods are listed on this web site. You will need to try temps and durations several times to see what works best for your equipment and geographic location. What works for me may not work for you. This is the web site that will get you close on your heat treat. www.hudsontoolsteel.com
Thanks for the tip..great vid!
Thanks!
Tops Knives uses CPM154 and 154CM Ontario Buck just to name a few.
Seahawk.Customs.Pc yep, the steel is starting to catch on with production companies. This video is a few years old. Appreciate your view and info.
William Collins
Hello I have a question do you sell knives. Or do you only heat treat them. Thanks
Seahawk.Customs.Pc I make and sell them. Only heat treat my own. This channel is filled with my custom designed knives or I make knives to customer specs and designs.
154 is widely used by bark river: I came here for a review because I Wanne buy a bark river again but maybe in 154.
Old video, I stopped doing custom builds in 2018. You can visit my home website to see what popular models I have and dealers to purchase them from. Appreciate your view.
im going to try this
+brandon mitchell Let me know how it works.
Say Heah William, Which steel is easier to sharpen in the bush, And is the difference between the CPM 154 and the CM 154 that noticeable to the user. I know the the CM 154 is flowed hot where the CPM 154 is a powder welded into a bullet and is much cleaner not as much impurities. But since the sharp edge/cutting ability is important, Does a user notice that much difference between the two. Thanx in advance
+paulie 4x it does to me but it is an individual choice if it is worth the price to upgrade.
Also I use diamond stones and rods to sharpen so I don't notice a difference.
Thanx, So it is harder to sharpen, I guess you can use a DC 4 Fallkniven Sharpener will work in the field, What is the difference to you between the two and no wing your getting the best because it is more expensive. But how much better does the edge holds, can you measure that, so I can understand it bettrr, Right now it's as clear as mud to me. Thanx in advance
+paulie 4x I didn't say that. I said "I didn't notice a difference in sharpening but I use diamond stones" so that may be why I don't notice a difference. This is a edge retention comparison of CPM 154 and O1 for my knives. I can't say what results other knives from other makers would result. ua-cam.com/video/OWhiYK8a8_M/v-deo.html
Sorry William, I wasn't trying to put you on the spot. But the 154 looks like a blade material maybe on my next knife. Just learning, that's all..Thanx, William.
Cardboard has a fair amount of Clay deposits in it from the manufacturing process. its rough on blades.
Yes it is, thanks!
i've used cardboard to even strop a blade, does a nice job.
Yep, anything that will dull a knife will sharpen it as well.
Awesome
+Wade Ussery Thanks!
Where is 1095 relative to these?
+Seventh Seal Have to try it out sometimes and see but I would suspect close but not as good.
bad ass knives
+Jordan Hyland Thanks!
Very Good Brother!
Bet you're liking the new Shoppe!
You can slip and send Andy's knife to me!
Lol!
God Bless!
HIS Peace!
Hawk.
+hawknives Thanks Hawk!
Do you have any recommendations of a steel that has a high edge retention, high toughness, and is easy to sharpen? By easy to sharpen I mean that I can strop for less that five minutes WITHOUT compound and still achieve hair shaving results.
No such thing. Any steel that holds a good edge or tough will not be that easy to sharpen. Just a mater of physics. What dulls a knife will sharpen a knife so easy to sharpen per your suggested standard would be a very soft steel so not hold a very good edge or be very tough. I find a happy medium between edge retention and toughness is a well heat treated O1 or 1095. All stainless is harder steel than a carbon steel like o1 or 1095 so no stainless.
William Collins makes sense, but between 1095 and 01, which is best? Two days ago I got a message saying that 3v fits that image, and that people say it’s great on a plain strop, what’s the truth in that? I’m looking for a steel which I depicted earlier, but it also needs to be able to fillet a wet fish, and then go the rest of the day without rusting, any help?
I have test comparison video on the 3v and o1 that is heat treated properly and don't see any reason to pay the high price for the 3v in real world use. O1, 1095 and 3v are all carbon steels and will rust if not maintained. Of the three I prefer O1. I think O1 is a very good steel that holds a great edge and is easy to sharpen. Not to impressed with 3v compared to the price increase between it and O1 however 3v will hold up to a very thin edge compared to O1 and is a little bit more rust resistant than o1 and 1095 but not a stainless. 1095 is a basic good carbon steel but does seam to rust quicker than O1. There isn't a stainless steel that will sharpen with only a strop without buffing compound. All will require a stone and I prefer diamond stones. D2 is a good stainless steel that is reasonably priced but will require a stone to sharpen. CPM 1654 in this video is a great stainless steel but very expensive and will require a stone. CPM s35vn is another great stainless steel but again will require a diamond stone. All of this is dependent on proper heat treat. if the steel isn't properly heat treated then nothing is good about it.
William Collins I agree with most of what you said, but the fact that you said that ANY stainless steel cannot be sharpened by a bare strop is wrong, because mora uses 12c27 stainless and it’s very very easy to sharpen. Anyway, thanks for your help, do you know any good stainless steels (other than 12c27) that sharpens easy and is comparable to 1095/01?
Frederik Kjaer I have several 12c27 knives and it is a good Mesolithic stainless steel but I suppose it depends on you definition of sharpening. Leather will clean the edge and straighten the bit but will not remove steel as the definition of sharpening does. Not sure why you ask so many questions if you already had a stainless you liked but appreciate your view.
Keyshaw makes a ton of cpm154 knives
+matthew collins I know Kershaw makes 154 CM knives but haven't seen any with CPM 154. There is a difference. CPM is 154 steel that has been broken down into a powder form and remade. It is a crucible steel. 154 CM is not a crucible steel and so the steel molicules are not as tight as CPM 154.
+William Collins (WC Knives)
The kershaw launch series is cpm 154
+William Collins (WC Knives) holding it in front of me with a couple articles proving it is real cpm154
Don't get me wrong custom made knives are beautiful and I would never dream of putting someone Down that has mastered that craft I'm simply informing you that companies of high quality have in fact put cpm154 into production
+matthew collins I just did a Google search and you are correct, Kershaw is launching a new line of knives with CPM 154. Appreciate the heads up. At the time of this video there wasn't any to my knowledge.
+William Collins (WC Knives) just here to help! Keep up the awesome work!
I think this was just an excuse to shave his arms! Nice to see a real world use test though.
Thanks!
look up cedric and ada gear reviews.. they do actual tests
Cpm 154 all day long
SENGVIN good stuff!
Lol