Edge Retention Test! - 01 Tool Steel - Tindall Knives
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2024
- cedric-ada-sto...
Good gravy its bricky on things
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O1 will always be my favorite steel. It has crazy durability, it holds an edge well, and it patinas so beautifully
💯🇺🇸
I would recommend trying a few brands of O1... especially since the heat treat can vary quite a bit with O1. I recommend an LT Wright
Thanks for doing these test mate, big ups from the Caribbean.
I love the chart at the end for reference. Thanks!
Bark River A2 was really impressive
Chrono Trigger music. You sir is a man of good taste.
Got a mighty hit of nostalgia when that Chrono Trigger music during the testing came on.
I think Bob Loveless was a big proponent of O1 for ease of working with and decent all-around performance. I once made a kiridashi out of O1, but botched the first heat treat. D'oh!
CSGraves love the Zeal music in general from chrono trigger. That was my favorite part of the game
Mine was Ayla's outfit. :-p
I like O1 becaus it seems to sharpen just as easy as 1095 and it takes a better edge at the same time, also the edge retention is noticeably better. The rust sucks tho. Nice Video !
Finest yeah, can definitly see why its still in use as a mid level non-stainless
That's a beautiful knife my friend, thanks for the review. I find all of these tests interesting and awesome!!!
Hultafors SK5 steel would be interesting to add to the test results.
That was better than i thought. You should look into L6\Sawmill steel, legendary toughness & edge retention.
+Felix Zaragoza Thats a good one I hadnt thought of yet! Do you know a good knife that has it?
Yeah, Svord knives. Check out their Von Tempsky bowie or Ranger knife.
Brother I just have to ask, lol what the heck do you do with all the rope cuttings lol bet itd make.great tinder for fires
Wasn't expecting chrono trigger music in a steel/knife review. I like it though
with releases like magnacut, there's a strong preference to stainless over stain"full"
Tops 154cm sells like hot cakes
Can't keep them stocked
Esee is releasing more and more in s35vn. People don't want the added maintenance and stress of having to constantly oil a tool or carbon steel blade, keep it dry, and separate from the sheath, and God help you if you're out in the forest with your wrinkler If it starts raining.
With 154cm you're good to go
Plain carbon isn't difficult to look after, I have a 1095 old hickory chefs knife never oil it... no rust.
great vid as always. please make a vid about spyderco pacific salt H1 steel plane or serretad. currenly your the best knife channel on youtube please keep it up
Yours videos are so helpful ! thanks !
Love this channel and love that HSS steel
How do you get the black color tone at the top of the blade???
Easy to sharpen tho so I would say it’s good to go!!
You should try A2 steel
Sisal, pronounced SIZE-ul. Great content thank you
HI Mate I use O1 tool steel and reclaimed O1 on a lot of my knives in some kases the older the better for forging and stock removal But as I've been working with O1 Since the 6Os may be i am a bit biased Grate video look forward to watching more ATB Keith
I liked 01 till I learned to make good blades. But, it's a great starter steel no doubt.
As for your story about working with old 01 steel that preforms better......yeeeeah, NO....It is more likely that you didn't have 01 steel in the first place, if it was preforming differently. 01 steel is made (dumbing down for you) to a very basic recipe. A number of additives to iron powder making what you call 01. If it preforms/behaves differently after the same heat treatment and tempering cycling.....its simply not the same steel.
@@shonaoneill5151 Remember he said he forged it? It gives different results in a forge ht everytime. O1 is great for an oven, but though I started ht it with a forge I soon went with only O1 with vanadium to restrict grain growth and hold at 1475 for 15 minutes to get a greater amount of the tungsten and chromium carbides. If I had to go back to a forge I'd use a steel made for a forge, 80CRV2 or CruForgeV with its .75% vanadium it makes carbides and vanadium carbides are harder than tungsten carbides by 0.2 points on the Mohs scale.
I feel like T.M Hunt's O1 is on another level.
O1 has over 1% manganese. It makes the heat treating different. You cannot compare steels if you ignore so called non-knife hardening alloy elements. I heat treated (HT) both and O1 with Vanadium always beat the 80CrV2 because of that Manganese and a tiny bit of Vanadium. At 0.2% vanadium doesn't make carbides, but what it does do is restrict grain growth in the matrix.
Vanadium makes harder carbides than even tungsten. Explains those "super steels" with high percentages of vanadium. FYI
You can buy O1 without the Vanadium, Latrobe still makes it, you don't want it. 80CrV2 was made for the folks with forges for HT in case you get too hot it won't create large grains in the matrix unless you go way too hot. Difference is that right after quench within 2 to 3 minutes O1 can be straightened easily if it warps, but the 80CrV2 does not have this property. See what that manganese does? I cannot say for certain, but it is the biggest difference between the two and the 0.5% tungsten which cannot account for the short term flex.
A short HT lesson is gradually heat O1 up to 1475 F and hold for 12-15 minutes depending on thickness, then quench in an oil with a slower cool rate than Parks 50. Canola oil is about right at 120 to 130 degrees, O1 takes a slower quench. It will be HRC 65 as quenched. The 12-15 minutes is necessary to get the chrome and tungsten into solution to form into carbides upon quench. Then literally as fast as you can you quench in oil, edge down. No more than one second should pass from oven to quench on ANY high carbon steel, so have the quench close.
80CrV2 is different and needs a higher temp for austenization or the formation of carbides. It needs to be heated to 1580 F and held for 5 minutes then quench and it will be about 66 HRC. I won't go into tempering, but there is a fairly large difference. A two hour temper at 400 F will put you at 60HRC with 80CrV2. O1 on the other hand it takes two hours at 450 to drop O1 to HRC60. Temper both steels twice.
See how small differences change the final results? You cannot guess too accurately about the final results. I'll stick to O1 for my High Carbon alloy steel. Of course to get the best out of the steels you need a good HT oven to control the heat. BUT if all you have is a forge get the O1 with Vanadium.
Do you think that 01 would fair better when made with a Scandinavian grind? Was it easy to sharpen? Does it react well to stropping with bare leather?
Super late reply, but why not:
Better with scandi grind, no, probably not in this test. Overall, O1 with scandi is great.
O1 is on par with 1095 as far as ease of sharpening, but will hold the edge longer and takes a better edge. Same for stopping, it's great.
Like everything with O1, that all really depends on the hear treat. William Collins has made some great knives in general, but sets the bar for O1 as far as I'm concerned.
@@CNYKnifeNerd Williams AEB-L is his trademark. A shame he doesn’t offer it anymore. For O1. I gotta give it to LT Wright. Wright has been in the game far longer and it shows.
Do you have any recommendations of a steel that has a high edge retention, high toughness, and is easy to sharpen? By easy to sharpen I mean that I can strop for less that five minutes WITHOUT compound and still achieve hair shaving results.
N690Co is your best bet
Morakniv is using O1 for their carbon steel knives like Companion.
No
Mora has used UHB-20C (basically 1095) for forever. Definitely never O1
how is chinese 01?
PLEASE post the list of current results in the description, the results mean absolutely nothing unless you have comparative data.
clancy6969 its at the end man
+Cedric & Ada Gear and Outdoors awesome thanks,
Dude you need to clean your back yard up!!!!!!!
I did at one point or another in the 18 months since making this video
Isnt that music animal crossing