This is an awesome build! Way simpler than the other DIY builds I’ve seen that cost over a hundred bucks to make. I’ll be heading to the flea market this week for an old microwave and scrap steel
Yeah baby I'm a retired machinest and always building better mouse traps your mschi e is vunderbar wonderful love it my hats off to you buddy thank u thank u
Routers and table saws have to be slowed down when cutting certain plastics and other gummy materials so they don't heat up. At Harbor Freight you can get a 120V speed controller for $20 to adjust a tool motor.
Bloody ingenious 😀👍 . How many firings do you get out of your brass ( that looks like a 308 Winchester case ) by using this method of annealing your brass cases ?
I just pulled a motor from a microwave. It says 120V on it but the wires are a very thing guage. I wonder how he was able to wire this 120v synchronous motor from a microwave?
@@Hunter4Life. all torches I have seen have a valve to adjust fuel flow to control heat or you could have different slotted cans for different cases. Spaces between slots control exposure to heat, etc. just a couple of ways to control heat
you cut your case neck to thin. Hole in one of the first pieces you annealed, right next to the shoulder. Great video, way to solve a problem on the cheap!
Good point. I had also changed the number of slots in the pan at the same time. I started with a larger pan with 3 slots. The number and width of the slots is what changes the time in the flame.
the drum was just an old candy tin, nothing special. You can use metal bowls if they have flat sides and bottoms or large tin cans, anything with flat bottoms and flat sides. You will probably need to cut the sides to the necessary depth depending on your cartridge length. My cartridge was a 308. The diameter and number of slots can be changed depending on the rpm of your motor. just put a mark on whatever drum you select and time how long it takes to go 1 revolution.. I determined my slots by timing how long it took my brass to get to temperature, then used that time to calculate where and how many slots to put on my drum. Good Luck!
nearly 6" in diameter but it doesn't really matter. mount your tin to the motor and time how long it takes for 1 revolution. you can then determine whether you need 2, 3, or 4 slots to control how long the brass remains in the flame. you can also vary the size of the slots making them larger if need to reduce the amount of time in the flame. have fun and good luck.
Nice work! Will try to build one myself too, but with a pwm controlled DC motor. The diameter of the tin will not make any difference to the time the brass stays in the flame though, only the rpm of the motor. Larger diameter will make the brass spin faster, but not for any longer time. It will still take the same amount of time to complete a full revolution.
MrSGL21 if it’s a fixed rpm motor, the drop happens at the same time regardless of the diameter...only way you could change that is the speed of the motor, or cutting larger slots
Hi Ralph, my motor is an 110v ac motor so I just connected a plug to it. Look on your motor to see if it is 110v ac or not it should either have a label or stamped on the motor what the voltage is. Be careful and good luck.
@@Johan_Pentrose if it says 110v it should be ok. The diameter of the wire reflects the amount of current being low. The motor should also indicate either wattage or amperage of the motor which would be very low.
0:55 "The larger the diameter, the longer brass going to stay in front of flame".... NOT. The FIXED speed motor is making 1/2 turn (1 brass) in the SAME time regardless of diameter. Otherwise, good idea.
I misspoke concerning that and it has been addressed in other previous comments. The number and width of the slots in the tin will control the time in the flame for a fixed rpm motor. It had also been pointed out that if wanted an inexpensive variable speed motor control can be had from HF for around $20. I have not found it necessary. I adjusted my slots and the size of the flame to control how hot my brass got.
@@southernexposure1205 Adjusting number and size of slots (and flame) will allow to fine-tune annealing process.. that makes sense. Combined with using an inexpensive motor, this makes an efficient solution. KISS principle.. sometimes we tend to over-complicate things :) Good job!
At what step in the reloading process do you anneal the brass? after de-priming, resizing, trimming ? video is great - looks like 8 or 9 seconds of heating. - thanks!!
@@southernexposure1205 Thanks, I decap, clean flash hole, FL resize and finally trim to length, chamfer, then wash before before I prime cases, soon to add annealing to a test batch of brass.
That yellow ramp scrap metal reminds me so much of the yellow paint we used on aircraft structural components. Where did you get that piece from? Just curious.
Anything 5-7” in diameter should work. You can vary the size and number of the cutouts for the slots to adjust the time in the flame. Put a flag of tape on your motor spindle and time how long it takes for one revolution and go from there. Good luck.
Gotta love the difference between Yankees and southerners. Yankees order a bunch of parts off Amazon and eBay spend $100. Southerner scavenges parts from old microwave!
Todd H either a cookie tin or a peppermint stick can. Something 5-6 " diameter should be fine. Depends on the speed of your motor. Also you can adjust the heat from your torch to reach the right temp. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Almost any can 4-6 inches in diameter will work. The number and width of the slots can be adjusted to determine the amount of time the brass is in the flame. You will need to check the time it takes for 1 revolution and also the time it takes for the brass to reach temperature. Adjust slots accordingly.
generally after. brass unlike some metals gets harder or more brittle when it is worked. so i normally anneal after i resize. cut to length, etc. so I get a better and more even crimp.
@@sdlillystone Agreed...Another way to put it is.....If you want a job done quick give it to a lazy man....he will figure out the easiest way to get it done
Flatlander69 I don't have any personal experience with it but brass is brass. Brass gets hard when it is worked I.e. Forming, crimping, etc. So annealing will soften military brass the same as commercial brass. I have seen some military brass and it had been annealed at the factory. So after a couple of firings it could benefit from another annealing. The thing you are trying to achieve is a consistent pressure on the bullet and if your brass is not crimping the same way for each bullet you will not get consistent groups. Have fun, shoot often, be safe.
Bryson Anderson my motor runs on 110v so I just wired it to a plug and plug it into an outlet strip. You will need to verify the voltage for your motor which is usually stamped or printed on the motor. You may also want to use a fuse or breaker and switch for it.
it possibly would be if I had 2 torches or excessive heat, the amount of heat being applied to the brass has to be considered. The heat can be controlled by the size of the flame and the distance. Mine is working fine. Thanks.
peteralexben you may be right...although I currently do not have that available. This brass had some natural oxidation although it was new brass. i could have run it through the tumbler to polish it but since it was clean and new but old stock I didnt see the need. Thanks for watching.
Absolutely BEAUTIFUL !!! Simple and effective.
Everything a design should be !!!!
Tim
Thank you very much!
This is an awesome build! Way simpler than the other DIY builds I’ve seen that cost over a hundred bucks to make. I’ll be heading to the flea market this week for an old microwave and scrap steel
Good luck with your build! Enjoy!
Inginuity at its finest! Hats off to you sir, this is really fantastic!!
Your a genius. Mind blowingly simple.
Yeah baby I'm a retired machinest and always building better mouse traps your mschi e is vunderbar wonderful love it my hats off to you buddy thank u thank u
Thats the best hack I've ever seen
Routers and table saws have to be slowed down when cutting certain plastics and other gummy materials so they don't heat up. At Harbor Freight you can get a 120V speed controller for $20 to adjust a tool motor.
Very good idea, thank you for sharing with people. I made one and it works very well. cheap and effective.
Good idea....simple but functional and cheap ! Might just have to make one too.
Well put together, thanks for sharing!
I LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Gday from Australia mate. WOW so simple so brilliant.
Thanks! Enjoy. Gday mate!
Fantastic, I do love a bit of home engineering.
Very good engineering.
That is great. I thought about a microwave motor also. I'm building one!!!!!!!
Hey if it works it works....
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing!
This is incredible..I love it.. and will build one
Very ingenious. Thanks for sharing.
About 1 1/4” but you can adjust it depending on case size you work most often
This beats all the others I have seen.
Simplicity is its own brilliance.
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching. Be sure and subscribe!
Good idea man! Looks like it works good.
Thanks. Not pretty but it works. Kind of like me. Ha!
That rocked. The supper is simple.
Awesome job! I like it!!
Great video, thanks for sharing.
KFW please I no speak English Why the introduction is heated gunshot
It’s quite the noticeable difference when reloading the brass and groups 😊
That's why I started reloading....to get better accuracy than store bought without buying match grade.
My friends buddy made one just like this one and it works damn good 👍
Glad to hear it….mine is still going strong too
A great cheap and simple way to anneal .
Thanks for the video!
CLUTCHNSHIFT You are welcome. Hope you enjoyed it.
That's brilliant!
Thank you.
Bloody ingenious 😀👍 . How many firings do you get out of your brass ( that looks like a 308 Winchester case ) by using this method of annealing your brass cases ?
If you did this 40years ago I would have had fingers today thanks starting mine tommorow
im trying to imagine how you lose your fingers in an annealing accident. rupturing gas tank? hot oil?
Warning motors out of microwave ovens are not always 120 Volt read the label on the back of the motor for voltage input.. Pay attention to that !
I just pulled a motor from a microwave. It says 120V on it but the wires are a very thing guage. I wonder how he was able to wire this 120v synchronous motor from a microwave?
Great job!!!!! Thanks. J.
Really nice job.
Thanks
Your are a genius!
Thanks!
Brilliant!
What did you use for a motor and speed control?
I like the idea but without a speed control how would you control the temp of brass when you switch from .223 rem to 300 Weatherby magnum?
Thanks
@@Hunter4Life. all torches I have seen have a valve to adjust fuel flow to control heat or you could have different slotted cans for different cases. Spaces between slots control exposure to heat, etc. just a couple of ways to control heat
Simple and effective
How deep is the sidewall on the rotating drum?
you cut your case neck to thin. Hole in one of the first pieces you annealed, right next to the shoulder. Great video, way to solve a problem on the cheap!
Time stamp? I went back through and couldn’t see anything
@@markg1247 Yep saw it that time, thanks
An automatic feeder does not mean you walk away from a flame, you just don't have to feed every single case by hand every 15 seconds.
True.
Good Job!
Thanks!
Very Clever !!!
the larger diameter pan wont change the time the brass is in the flame..... just how fast the brass turns.......
Good point. I had also changed the number of slots in the pan at the same time. I started with a larger pan with 3 slots. The number and width of the slots is what changes the time in the flame.
A variable speed controller would make this set up perfect,.
Annealing your brass allows the case to get a proper neck tension on the bullet, so that you have more accurate ammo to shoot.
Nice setup.
This is great !!!
What did you make the drum out of/ diameter/ timeing , also just wondering what caliber is that particular cartridge in the video 8mm ?
the drum was just an old candy tin, nothing special. You can use metal bowls if they have flat sides and bottoms or large tin cans, anything with flat bottoms and flat sides. You will probably need to cut the sides to the necessary depth depending on your cartridge length. My cartridge was a 308. The diameter and number of slots can be changed depending on the rpm of your motor. just put a mark on whatever drum you select and time how long it takes to go 1 revolution.. I determined my slots by timing how long it took my brass to get to temperature, then used that time to calculate where and how many slots to put on my drum. Good Luck!
What is the diameter of your round tin ?Excellent idea👍
nearly 6" in diameter but it doesn't really matter. mount your tin to the motor and time how long it takes for 1 revolution. you can then determine whether you need 2, 3, or 4 slots to control how long the brass remains in the flame. you can also vary the size of the slots making them larger if need to reduce the amount of time in the flame. have fun and good luck.
This is genius !!!
Nice work! Will try to build one myself too, but with a pwm controlled DC motor.
The diameter of the tin will not make any difference to the time the brass stays in the flame though, only the rpm of the motor. Larger diameter will make the brass spin faster, but not for any longer time. It will still take the same amount of time to complete a full revolution.
Lol no. It takes longer for the notch to rotate around the larger the diameter the tin. Hence the brass spends for time in the flame.
@@MrSGL21 Nope, PolarnPer2 is correct... the case will just spin faster, but the drop window will come by at the same time regardless of diameter.
MrSGL21 if it’s a fixed rpm motor, the drop happens at the same time regardless of the diameter...only way you could change that is the speed of the motor, or cutting larger slots
Never heard of radial speed?
Can you please put a pic of the back and the microwave motor how you wired it up
Hi Ralph, my motor is an 110v ac motor so I just connected a plug to it. Look on your motor to see if it is 110v ac or not it should either have a label or stamped on the motor what the voltage is. Be careful and good luck.
@@southernexposure1205 mine says 120v but the wires are so very thin....
@@Johan_Pentrose if it says 110v it should be ok. The diameter of the wire reflects the amount of current being low. The motor should also indicate either wattage or amperage of the motor which would be very low.
@@southernexposure1205 synchronous motor #TYJ50-8, 120v 60hz 4W, 6R/min
@@southernexposure1205 do you have any kind of controller on the motor or just an on-off switch?
0:55 "The larger the diameter, the longer brass going to stay in front of flame".... NOT. The FIXED speed motor is making 1/2 turn (1 brass) in the SAME time regardless of diameter. Otherwise, good idea.
I misspoke concerning that and it has been addressed in other previous comments. The number and width of the slots in the tin will control the time in the flame for a fixed rpm motor. It had also been pointed out that if wanted an inexpensive variable speed motor control can be had from HF for around $20. I have not found it necessary. I adjusted my slots and the size of the flame to control how hot my brass got.
@@southernexposure1205 Adjusting number and size of slots (and flame) will allow to fine-tune annealing process.. that makes sense. Combined with using an inexpensive motor, this makes an efficient solution. KISS principle.. sometimes we tend to over-complicate things :) Good job!
I LIKE IT GOOD JOB
Excellent
Thanks
I just pulled a motor from a microwave. It is indeed 120v. The wires are thin. Wondering if j could just wire 120v to it….
Excellent.
🎉damn cool!
Nice.
How did you attach the drum to the motor shaft
with a small screw into the center of the shaft
going to make myself one of these
excellent
At what step in the reloading process do you anneal the brass? after de-priming, resizing, trimming ? video is great - looks like 8 or 9 seconds of heating. - thanks!!
After all prep work on brass. Since brass is work hardened, last thing I do before I start reloading process.
@@southernexposure1205 Thanks, I decap, clean flash hole, FL resize and finally trim to length, chamfer, then wash before before I prime cases, soon to add annealing to a test batch of brass.
Matt barrloe Make sure you anneal BEFORE you prime!!! The heat from annealing can cause them to explode.
That yellow ramp scrap metal reminds me so much of the yellow paint we used on aircraft structural components. Where did you get that piece from? Just curious.
I don’t really know but it is lightweight alloy of some kind
@@southernexposure1205 very well might be an aircraft support beam. Pretty cool. Don't get the yellow hot or burned. Cancer lol.
What diameter is your pan. I have a microwave motor and want to build one of these. Great idea!
Anything 5-7” in diameter should work. You can vary the size and number of the cutouts for the slots to adjust the time in the flame. Put a flag of tape on your motor spindle and time how long it takes for one revolution and go from there. Good luck.
Thank you
He was wrong. The first step is to hit your thumb.
Otherwise, great video.
Gotta love the difference between Yankees and southerners. Yankees order a bunch of parts off Amazon and eBay spend $100. Southerner scavenges parts from old microwave!
Great video. what was the can from is it a cookie tin or what?
Todd H either a cookie tin or a peppermint stick can. Something 5-6 " diameter should be fine. Depends on the speed of your motor. Also you can adjust the heat from your torch to reach the right temp. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Really innovative...but how do you calibrate this to ensure it is annealed at the right temp 450-475f?
This rig is not calibrated but you can get the heat sensitive paint or use an infrared thermometer which can be had for around $20 bucks.
Greg Zuccarini I thought the right temp was 750f
The correct temp is 650 degrees F.Buy 650 Temilaq to get the settings spot on.
What diameter is the can and how big are the slots or did I miss it?
Almost any can 4-6 inches in diameter will work. The number and width of the slots can be adjusted to determine the amount of time the brass is in the flame. You will need to check the time it takes for 1 revolution and also the time it takes for the brass to reach temperature. Adjust slots accordingly.
Do you anneal before or after resizing/trimming?
generally after. brass unlike some metals gets harder or more brittle when it is worked. so i normally anneal after i resize. cut to length, etc. so I get a better and more even crimp.
SouthernExposure: Awesome info, thank you for the reply!
Where's the fancy L.E.D. monitoring device? And the timer? and the computer 16pin D-shell plug?
Too simple here....Mind Blown!
dugan hayes Yeah I know. Too simple.
Einstein said "any fool can make somthing more complicated, but its takes a genius to make something simpler"
@@sdlillystone Agreed...Another way to put it is.....If you want a job done quick give it to a lazy man....he will figure out the easiest way to get it done
I would like to know you input on annealing military brass for reloading. Thanks Flatlander69
Flatlander69 I don't have any personal experience with it but brass is brass. Brass gets hard when it is worked I.e. Forming, crimping, etc. So annealing will soften military brass the same as commercial brass. I have seen some military brass and it had been annealed at the factory. So after a couple of firings it could benefit from another annealing. The thing you are trying to achieve is a consistent pressure on the bullet and if your brass is not crimping the same way for each bullet you will not get consistent groups. Have fun, shoot often, be safe.
How did you wire up the microwave motor?
Bryson Anderson my motor runs on 110v so I just wired it to a plug and plug it into an outlet strip. You will need to verify the voltage for your motor which is usually stamped or printed on the motor. You may also want to use a fuse or breaker and switch for it.
Looks to me way to long under the flame
it possibly would be if I had 2 torches or excessive heat, the amount of heat being applied to the brass has to be considered. The heat can be controlled by the size of the flame and the distance. Mine is working fine. Thanks.
good idea and machine ,but it would be better to wet tumble with pins the brass before annealing.
peteralexben you may be right...although I currently do not have that available. This brass had some natural oxidation although it was new brass. i could have run it through the tumbler to polish it but since it was clean and new but old stock I didnt see the need. Thanks for watching.