Just received my Vertex last week. It’s built like a tank. This video and one more on YT pushed me over the edge. I do believe this machine will last a lifetime and then some. Thanks for the great video.
awesome videos Sam, by far some of the best online i subscribed a while ago, glad you put up a good annealing video... there arent very many good ones online, seems like a lot of people overcook the brass on youtube lol
Hi, I love your videos. I am considering getting an annealer. Have you learned any lessons in the last 7 years in regards to annealing? The way I have been trying to maintain neck tension is with a very light crimp, am I wrong? Thanks
I have never used the machine for annealing. Slick!!! Used the ckae pan in the broiler method, I use a factory crimp die set with feeler gauge so as to not deform the bullets. it seems to work as the chrono shows low single digit es and my 1000 yard groups are almost all separated horizontally. Does the precision of that machine help with case life?
When you paint the outside, how do you know that the temperature indication is the temperature of the case or the temperature of the flame? I would think the heat being applied to the flame would cause it to turn before the metal got up to temp.
Oh gosh, as just before actually reloading my 1st round, I now find out I need a super expensive machine for annealing my brass 1st? Thanks for the video 🤔
If your just starting out and aren’t necessarily doing mass production then a drill socket and torch will be good enough to get you started. Cheap, easy, and effective! There are plenty of videos on it. Maybe start out with this and as you progress later get a machine??
Sam, your lathe is almost same as mine, can you give me the 1,2,3,4 steps you use on realoading your brass, as to new, and used, do you anneal it? And on fired brass, you decpa, clean, anneal, bump the shoulder and size just the neck? No one really covers the steps they go thru. Just a Q as have loaded many differnt cartridges's but now wanting to bump the neck and shooting more new Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor and PRC brass. My Bergara's are shooting best groups ever with ammo right out of a new box of Hornady ELD-X , .20 groups at 100 yds. Thanks so much and really enjoy watching all your great videos.
Check every other video on annealing, the tempilaq goes inside the neck, not outside. Putting it outside the neck only tells you that the flame has reached a specific temperature, not the brass.
Great video my friend! My question is that I see others using 750 tempilaq for 6.5 Creedmoor. Should I go with that or are you really saying that by the time the 650 goes black, you're probably at the 750 mark by the time the case leaves the flame? Thanks again and great videos!
I know your not working with 223 / 556 brass but maybe you can help me what temp should 223 /556 brass be annealed at? thanks for all your videos very great work
It anneals at the same temperature. I use the same process as the rest of my brass. I just annealed 600 pieces of LC 5.56 brass using the Bench Source and the methods shown in this video.
Great video! I have a question, you said you clean the brass and then anneal. Do you clean the neck after annealing or just size your brass without cleaning the neck? thanks
I think I am confused. Still hard and so when you heated up to temperature in Quincy it in oil or water. Brass does exactly the opposite. I have been the priming my brass and putting it in a cake pan with about half inch of water in the bottom of it. I then put the propane torch at the neck shoulder junction wow in the evening when they had lights can be down low and look for a doll red color then use a knife to knock it over into the water works very, very well low extreme spreads etc. Been doing that way for 20 years and never had a problem
Never mind I was under the miss impression that the water was annealing the hot cases. The water is only there to protect the case and head in the lower part of the cartridge case. The actual work is being done by the flame. However, a single flame on the side will give a symmetrical annealing. Go with one of the good annealing machine‘s. See you later, I have to go take my head out of my ass
Thanks for the video and the information you present. As one who has been shooting and reloading for over 5 decades, I've never given the idea of annealing much credence, frankly. I do a quality scheme of cleaning and prepping all of my brass in whatever caliber I'm shooting at the time, load the cases with consistency (that IS the important thing, right?) and have been satisfied with 1/2" and smaller 5-shot groups for the most part. Yet NOW I'm seriously considering doing this newfangled annealing process to determine if I can extract yet more consistency if at all possible. Ok. Enough jawing for now and time to get some questions out. You mention that with the temp lacquer the process of determining the proper temperature and dwell time for a given case is pretty much a trial and error each time you set up or change case brand, caliber, etc. Granted, if one has kept quality notes, time taken can be minimized but reinventing the wheel each time does detract from the time actually DOING. My question, then, is: Has anybody bothered to compile a document that records their experience with given cases, workspace temp, flame heat, etc., so that they wouldn't, necessarily, need to recreate the wheel, so to speak? And if they have, has such document or documents, been posted or dispensed to anyone seeking such knowledge in an effort to educate those using, say, this particular machine for instance? For instance, I recently watched a video on an induction type annealing machine which provides a sheet document(s) that takes MANY of the variables out of the equation for the price of turning a page and looking for the particular case you are working with at any given time. Granted, doing the initial setup then re-doing the process each time you need to anneal a batch of cases is quality time building experience, but for someone wanting to maximize their time being productive and not having to fidget with setup each and every time, and possibly inducing yet another variable during the process, it seems that everyone who has and uses this particular machine could benefit from the experience of their fellow reloaders and machine users. Sorry for the long-winded question and I certainly don't mean to demean or put down anybody for their methodology, but as I said, I really like the idea of getting the job done and not having to tinker each time just to (hopefully) recreate the same success I had in a previous loading session. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me as I try and determine which style and brand of machine I will buy, should I elect to go that path. Hope you had a Very Merry Christmas and will have a Happy New Year!
Try molten salt annealing. It’s simple and easy. You can’t overcook the brass because it’s at the annealing temperature already. It heats from the inside as well as the outside at the same time. A Canadian outfit called “Ballistic Recreations” will set you up with a complete kit. Anneal every time you fire a case for consistency. This way is fast and easy and affordable.
Sam, Thanks for the videos. Do you anneal each time to deal with the increase neck tension that occurs after annealing? How do you handle this change in tension in a systematic way? Thanks
Not commenting as a critic. Just a question. Does brass anneal at that temperature in a few seconds? The sourcing i am seeing says it anneals at 800 deg in a few seconds rather than 6 or 650. Is that the case or? Dont want to mess up my brass
I've watched the video a few times now. You have a great way of presenting the info. Do you ever have trouble with seating inconsistency after annealing? I get a few thousands swing in seating depth with annealed brass but the Redding comp die does great on un annealed brass. It's very frustrating.
Hi Sam. Thanks for the great information in your videos. They are realy helpfull, for a newby like me. But one question....In European videos they drop the bras in water after annealing it. You dont do that. Why....? Greatings from Denmark. Tom
Great information. Do you anneal after every firing? Do you neck turn cases? With the thinner necks would you have to put the tempilaq closer to the shoulder ? Or inside the neck.? Thanks Dave.
Hi Sam I know this a old Thread, I load for a 338 lapua mag, I never anealed brass, My question is I will be useing a drill with the case in a socket, with the torch at a set distance and drill at a set speed. I noticed you put the 650 temp on the outside of the case, some guys put it on the inside, But I like your method better cause you can see what you have and when the color changes. I dont have money for a machine yet. will my method work if iI do things in a consistant manner. ? Thanks If I may ask how far is your propane cylander away from the brass like from the end of the tube? Thanks.
CAPS 4 READING NOT SHOUTING.... I TIMED UR SHELLS AND 4 SEC ON THE MONEY WAS MORE LIKE 4 1/2 SECONDS AND UR FINAL RUN OF SHELLS WAS CLOSER TO 5 SECONDS... DID U BUMP UP THE TIME OFF VIDEO.
I noticed after annealing 20 pieces of brass with a homemade annealer , my necks sizes were very consistent on my calipers. Would that be a good sign of good consistent neck tension ?
Quick question, you mentioned you anneal before sizing your shot brass. I have just received my bench source machine. My brass is sized and ready for loading should I resize after annealing or should I be ok to load and shoot after annealing? Thanks in advance.
Hello Sam, I'm doing research to decide between 300 Win mag and 338 Lapua for a long range build in the future. As far as 300 WM goes, is there a large difference between Winchester and Hornady brass? Also, have you heard of RWS brass? I've read that it is considerably thicker than other brands for 300 Win Mag. Thank you!
I don't know about currently produced Hornady brass, but I used a batch of it for a 300 Wthby about 15 years ago and liked it. I think I got 10 firings out of it. The WW brass has been pretty good for this project. I'm on the 4th firing now with no problems. I've never used RWS brass, but heard it, and Norma brass, are thicker than WW. Normally that would mean it's tougher in the primer pocket area. That may be, but WW brass seems to be harder than most and tends to keep its dimensions in the pocket. A little bit thinner case means a little more room for powder.
Great video. Do you have to use your expander ball in your sizing die after annealing? I have this machine as well and I noticed some deformed case necks when I was playing around with it, maybe that was a sign of over annealing?
Occasionally I'll have some dinged necks I have to run over an expander if I'm shooting around concrete. I've never had one get dented by the fall from the annealer. The necks definitely get soft and crush easily if you get them too hot.
Hi Sam, thanks for this how-to and the effort you put into it which helps people like me flatten the learning curve considerably! It appears to me you apply the Tempilaq to one case during setup to establish the appropriate dwell time for that lot based upon the conditions present and not each case individually. Am I seeing that correctly?
That's correct. I usually paint two cases to avoid getting one too warm to accurately set the flame temp or dwell time. I can run one through twice before having to cool it down. Fine steel wool will scrub the Tempilaq off when you're done.
Thanks for the reply Sam! One last thing...Have you noticed any reduction in flame temperature as the smaller Bernzomatic cylinders empty which might require a mid-batch adjustment in dwell time to achieve the desired temp? I'm wondering if connecting both torches to a larger propane source, like a 20lb tank, would improve flame temperature stability? Probably not an issue with smaller batches of brass but possibly with larger batches?
I haven't noticed it yet, but I'm sure it will happen. I've annealed at least 1800 cases this year, though, without the bottles running down. A 20-pounder would last me forever! :-) Ambient temperature in the shop makes a big difference, too. I keep a notepad by the machine with times and flame settings for different temp brackets.
Sam I have learned a lot from videos. My question is you air cool the brass after annealing, but another sight quenches in water. Which is the correct method?
Steve & Kayla I annealed WW brass after the first firing. The Gunwerks brass didn’t need it for a long time. The details are in my review on the website.
Hey Sam, I just purchased the Anneal-Rite product from www.cartridgeanneal.com/ and I was talking to the man that makes/sells the product about outside vs. inside placement of the 750 Tempilaq. He said that when he was talking to the chemist of the Tempilaq that it would need to be placed on the inside of the neck area and would melt when the brass got to temp (method I used first time annealing). If placed on the outside the tempilaq would just burn/melt at flame temp and the brass would be inconsistent depending on how thick the Tempilaq was when brushed on. I annealed 100pc of 6.5cm all with the inside method and his manual annealing device (also only 140 bucks) which once a rhythm was established it was very fast. Brass felt great on full length sizing and shot my Berger 135 classic hunters w/20" barrel at an AVG. of 2645 w/SD of 5.9 w/H4350! I know you said it doesn't matter and this method works for you but thought I would pass this on. Love your videos, my go to youtube channel!
Sam, some people suggest using the 750 Tempilaq. Is 650 the "least" temperature maybe and 750 is the "highest" temperature? What's your thoughts on that? Thanks!
@@PanhandlePrecision Thanks Sam for the quick reply. You were using 650 in the annealing video. If 750 was the target temp why did you choose to use the 650? Thanks!
The temp of 750 degrees requires that temp be held for 1 HOUR to reach the proper annealing of brass!!! In order to reduce the time to reach proper annealing, the temp must be increased.
Hi guys ı have 300win mag. I love long range shooting and hunting. My country ıbex paradise. I m using 230 berger hybrid and 210 berger vld. I have case problem. And ı make Just neck sizing. The templiaq is useful or not. And have a alternative thing templiaq. Because ı have no templiaq in My country thanks a lot.
Do you know the AMP Annelaing Made Pefrect Machine? Am thinking about getting one to avoid user error. I load .308 and cant get under ES of 32. maybe this will do the trick. Have done everything else I can think of. Groups are about 0,5-0,6 MOA out to 330 yards (cant shooot further over here). Thanks!
@John Beige yes it is, it comes with a paintbrush that you apply to the inside of the neck. Applying it to the outside only tells you the flame is above 750. Applying it inside tells you the brass is 750.
@@xdm9guy the flame isn't hitting the tempilaq. When the heat crawls down the case and hits the tempilaq, that means that spot on the case is 650 degrees, meaning everything above there is above 650 degrees.
Great videos,Sam. Thank you. Sage advice to ignore your critics .
Got my question answered on whether quecnching is necessary. Thank you !
Just received my Vertex last week. It’s built like a tank. This video and one more on YT pushed me over the edge. I do believe this machine will last a lifetime and then some. Thanks for the great video.
awesome videos Sam, by far some of the best online i subscribed a while ago, glad you put up a good annealing video... there arent very many good ones online, seems like a lot of people overcook the brass on youtube lol
Hi, I love your videos. I am considering getting an annealer. Have you learned any lessons in the last 7 years in regards to annealing? The way I have been trying to maintain neck tension is with a very light crimp, am I wrong? Thanks
Nice video, thanks for sharing your process and thoughts with us!
I have never used the machine for annealing. Slick!!! Used the ckae pan in the broiler method, I use a factory crimp die set with feeler gauge so as to not deform the bullets. it seems to work as the chrono shows low single digit es and my 1000 yard groups are almost all separated horizontally. Does the precision of that machine help with case life?
When you paint the outside, how do you know that the temperature indication is the temperature of the case or the temperature of the flame? I would think the heat being applied to the flame would cause it to turn before the metal got up to temp.
Putting the Tempilaq on the inside of the case neck is the proper way. I would also argue that you need to hit at least 750F. Go watch Erik Cortina.
Always enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great information! Thank you!
I just want to say thank you! I really appreciate all your videos they have been a big help.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
For a detailed online description of my annealing process and general reloading, see: panhandleprecision.com/choosing-long-range-hunting-load/
Oh gosh, as just before actually reloading my 1st round, I now find out I need a super expensive machine for annealing my brass 1st?
Thanks for the video 🤔
If your just starting out and aren’t necessarily doing mass production then a drill socket and torch will be good enough to get you started. Cheap, easy, and effective! There are plenty of videos on it. Maybe start out with this and as you progress later get a machine??
Sam, your lathe is almost same as mine, can you give me the 1,2,3,4 steps you use on realoading your brass, as to new, and used, do you anneal it? And on fired brass, you decpa, clean, anneal, bump the shoulder and size just the neck? No one really covers the steps they go thru. Just a Q as have loaded many differnt cartridges's but now wanting to bump the neck and shooting more new Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor and PRC brass. My Bergara's are shooting best groups ever with ammo right out of a new box of Hornady ELD-X , .20 groups at 100 yds. Thanks so much and really enjoy watching all your great videos.
Nice machine more cost effective compared to others?
Many sincere thanks for your video.
Hey Sam have you checked the AMP annealing machine yet ?? Just wondering!
Check every other video on annealing, the tempilaq goes inside the neck, not outside. Putting it outside the neck only tells you that the flame has reached a specific temperature, not the brass.
That's gotta be Winchester brass going by that split case mouth 😂
Great video my friend! My question is that I see others using 750 tempilaq for 6.5 Creedmoor. Should I go with that or are you really saying that by the time the 650 goes black, you're probably at the 750 mark by the time the case leaves the flame? Thanks again and great videos!
great, great vids!! On average, how many times would you reload a .308 brass without annealing before you toss it off?
I have Lapua with over 10-14 reloads. Still going strong. And with heavy loads
I am confused the long range shooters of utah video used 750 templilaq and it turns clear
I know your not working with 223 / 556 brass but maybe you can help me what temp should 223 /556 brass be annealed at? thanks for all your videos very great work
It anneals at the same temperature. I use the same process as the rest of my brass. I just annealed 600 pieces of LC 5.56 brass using the Bench Source and the methods shown in this video.
thank you keep up the good. videos
Great video! I have a question, you said you clean the brass and then anneal. Do you clean the neck after annealing or just size your brass without cleaning the neck? thanks
jaybigboy34 I clean the brass before annealing. I don't do anything to the necks between the annealer and the sizing die, other than lube.
I think I am confused. Still hard and so when you heated up to temperature in Quincy it in oil or water. Brass does exactly the opposite. I have been the priming my brass and putting it in a cake pan with about half inch of water in the bottom of it. I then put the propane torch at the neck shoulder junction wow in the evening when they had lights can be down low and look for a doll red color then use a knife to knock it over into the water works very, very well low extreme spreads etc. Been doing that way for 20 years and never had a problem
Never mind I was under the miss impression that the water was annealing the hot cases. The water is only there to protect the case and head in the lower part of the cartridge case. The actual work is being done by the flame. However, a single flame on the side will give a symmetrical annealing. Go with one of the good annealing machine‘s. See you later, I have to go take my head out of my ass
Jon Labrum such honesty....very refreshing.
Thank you for your posts. I learned a lot from you.
Excellent presentation. What do you use to measure neck tension?
Thanks for the video and the information you present. As one who has been shooting and reloading for over 5 decades, I've never given the idea of annealing much credence, frankly. I do a quality scheme of cleaning and prepping all of my brass in whatever caliber I'm shooting at the time, load the cases with consistency (that IS the important thing, right?) and have been satisfied with 1/2" and smaller 5-shot groups for the most part.
Yet NOW I'm seriously considering doing this newfangled annealing process to determine if I can extract yet more consistency if at all possible.
Ok. Enough jawing for now and time to get some questions out.
You mention that with the temp lacquer the process of determining the proper temperature and dwell time for a given case is pretty much a trial and error each time you set up or change case brand, caliber, etc. Granted, if one has kept quality notes, time taken can be minimized but reinventing the wheel each time does detract from the time actually DOING.
My question, then, is:
Has anybody bothered to compile a document that records their experience with given cases, workspace temp, flame heat, etc., so that they wouldn't, necessarily, need to recreate the wheel, so to speak? And if they have, has such document or documents, been posted or dispensed to anyone seeking such knowledge in an effort to educate those using, say, this particular machine for instance?
For instance, I recently watched a video on an induction type annealing machine which provides a sheet document(s) that takes MANY of the variables out of the equation for the price of turning a page and looking for the particular case you are working with at any given time.
Granted, doing the initial setup then re-doing the process each time you need to anneal a batch of cases is quality time building experience, but for someone wanting to maximize their time being productive and not having to fidget with setup each and every time, and possibly inducing yet another variable during the process, it seems that everyone who has and uses this particular machine could benefit from the experience of their fellow reloaders and machine users.
Sorry for the long-winded question and I certainly don't mean to demean or put down anybody for their methodology, but as I said, I really like the idea of getting the job done and not having to tinker each time just to (hopefully) recreate the same success I had in a previous loading session.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me as I try and determine which style and brand of machine I will buy, should I elect to go that path.
Hope you had a Very Merry Christmas and will have a Happy New Year!
Try molten salt annealing. It’s simple and easy. You can’t overcook the brass because it’s at the annealing temperature already. It heats from the inside as well as the outside at the same time. A Canadian outfit called “Ballistic Recreations” will set you up with a complete kit. Anneal every time you fire a case for consistency. This way is fast and easy and affordable.
Sam,
Thanks for the videos. Do you anneal each time to deal with the increase neck tension that occurs after annealing? How do you handle this change in tension in a systematic way? Thanks
Not commenting as a critic. Just a question. Does brass anneal at that temperature in a few seconds? The sourcing i am seeing says it anneals at 800 deg in a few seconds rather than 6 or 650. Is that the case or? Dont want to mess up my brass
Hey Sam! I'm sure you have already addressed this, but is this temp desired for all brass cases or do you change temp on different case sizes? Thanks
Brett Morefield Same temp, but how to get there varies with different brands and thickness.
So you anneal BEFORE you resize? (Thanks again for this very informative and well made video!!)
kubotamaniac yes always anneal first before any resizing. If not the brass is hard and can split easier or make it harder to resize.
If you over anneal, is the brass wasted?
That machine really expedites the process, adds a lot of consistency too i would imagine.
Thanks,
Yes. Might as well toss it if you get it too hot.
I've watched the video a few times now. You have a great way of presenting the info. Do you ever have trouble with seating inconsistency after annealing? I get a few thousands swing in seating depth with annealed brass but the Redding comp die does great on un annealed brass. It's very frustrating.
Sorry--I should have read the introduction before writing. Any suggestion on handling this change if it is not possible to anneal every time?
Hi Sam. Thanks for the great information in your videos. They are realy helpfull, for a newby like me. But one question....In European videos they drop the bras in water after annealing it. You dont do that. Why....?
Greatings from Denmark. Tom
There's no need to, unless you want to handle them right off the fire. Dropping them in water isn't necessary for annealing.
Can you do nickel plated brass?
Great information. Do you anneal after every firing? Do you neck turn cases? With the thinner necks would you have to put the tempilaq closer to the shoulder ? Or inside the neck.? Thanks Dave.
Sam, is it necessary to clean the brass prior to the annealing process, if so why? Just trying to learn more, always appreciate all your video.
Is it OK to go back and re anneal a case that was used as a set up part that didn't reach the proper temperature the first time?
Yes
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Great video
Hi Sam I know this a old Thread, I load for a 338 lapua mag, I never anealed brass, My question is I will be useing a drill with the case in a socket, with the torch at a set distance and drill at a set speed. I noticed you put the 650 temp on the outside of the case, some guys put it on the inside, But I like your method better cause you can see what you have and when the color changes. I dont have money for a machine yet. will my method work if iI do things in a consistant manner. ? Thanks If I may ask how far is your propane cylander away from the brass like from the end of the tube? Thanks.
Good day! How many seconds does annealing take?
I adjust the flame to anneal in 5-5 1/2 seconds.
@@PanhandlePrecision Thank you! I am interested in your channel. I've been fond of reloading for a long time, you help me a lot in knowledge :))
Good day! I would like to contact you for advice! I'm going to anneal 338 lapua magnum cases. Please advise how long it takes to anneal?
I wonder if a Dillon case feeder can be adapted to it ..
How many times would you recommend annealing brass before you decide to replace them?
I don’t have a number to recommend. If done properly, I don’t think annealing will hurt the useful life of a case.
I was wondering if you anneal after each firing?
great info, I get alot of tips from your videos, keep up the great work.
CAPS 4 READING NOT SHOUTING.... I TIMED UR SHELLS AND 4 SEC ON THE MONEY WAS MORE LIKE 4 1/2 SECONDS AND UR FINAL RUN OF SHELLS WAS CLOSER TO 5 SECONDS... DID U BUMP UP THE TIME OFF VIDEO.
WOULD LIKE YOU TO SHOOT VIDEO WITH LIGHTS OUT TO SEE BRASS COLOR, UP CLOSE
Are you using propane or mapp gas ? How often do you need to swap out bottles ? Recommendations ?
Awesome as usual!
Which panhandle are you in?
North Idaho
Panhandle Precision God’s country! Cant wait to get up and running with my reloading. It’s been in the box too long!
I noticed after annealing 20 pieces of brass with a homemade annealer , my necks sizes were very consistent on my calipers. Would that be a good sign of good consistent neck tension ?
Not necessarily.
Quick question, you mentioned you anneal before sizing your shot brass. I have just received my bench source machine. My brass is sized and ready for loading should I resize after annealing or should I be ok to load and shoot after annealing? Thanks in advance.
Hello Sam, I'm doing research to decide between 300 Win mag and 338 Lapua for a long range build in the future. As far as 300 WM goes, is there a large difference between Winchester and Hornady brass? Also, have you heard of RWS brass? I've read that it is considerably thicker than other brands for 300 Win Mag. Thank you!
I don't know about currently produced Hornady brass, but I used a batch of it for a 300 Wthby about 15 years ago and liked it. I think I got 10 firings out of it. The WW brass has been pretty good for this project. I'm on the 4th firing now with no problems. I've never used RWS brass, but heard it, and Norma brass, are thicker than WW. Normally that would mean it's tougher in the primer pocket area. That may be, but WW brass seems to be harder than most and tends to keep its dimensions in the pocket. A little bit thinner case means a little more room for powder.
Eric Gonzales ai
What are your thoughts on salt bath annealing?
The only thing that is achieved with this temperature is stress relieving. The hardness of the brass is almost unmeasurable.
Great video. Do you have to use your expander ball in your sizing die after annealing? I have this machine as well and I noticed some deformed case necks when I was playing around with it, maybe that was a sign of over annealing?
Occasionally I'll have some dinged necks I have to run over an expander if I'm shooting around concrete. I've never had one get dented by the fall from the annealer. The necks definitely get soft and crush easily if you get them too hot.
Panhandle Precision
Hi Sam, thanks for this how-to and the effort you put into it which helps people like me flatten the learning curve considerably! It appears to me you apply the Tempilaq to one case during setup to establish the appropriate dwell time for that lot based upon the conditions present and not each case individually. Am I seeing that correctly?
That's correct. I usually paint two cases to avoid getting one too warm to accurately set the flame temp or dwell time. I can run one through twice before having to cool it down. Fine steel wool will scrub the Tempilaq off when you're done.
Thanks for the reply Sam! One last thing...Have you noticed any reduction in flame temperature as the smaller Bernzomatic cylinders empty which might require a mid-batch adjustment in dwell time to achieve the desired temp? I'm wondering if connecting both torches to a larger propane source, like a 20lb tank, would improve flame temperature stability? Probably not an issue with smaller batches of brass but possibly with larger batches?
I haven't noticed it yet, but I'm sure it will happen. I've annealed at least 1800 cases this year, though, without the bottles running down. A 20-pounder would last me forever! :-) Ambient temperature in the shop makes a big difference, too. I keep a notepad by the machine with times and flame settings for different temp brackets.
Thank you sir. Great info. That's an awful lot of cases on two bottles. Happy New Year!
Sam I have learned a lot from videos. My question is you air cool the brass after annealing, but another sight quenches in water. Which is the correct method?
Terry WAGNER Water cooling does absolutely nothing for the annealing process, other than make the brass wet.
Panhandle Precision thank you Sam, appreciate the quick reply
When are you getting a AMP?
Steve & Kayla I’d love to try one, but it’s out of our budget. The Bench-Source is long paid for and works just fine.
Panhandle Precision how many reloads of 300 mag can you get with out annealing vs annealing?
Steve & Kayla I annealed WW brass after the first firing. The Gunwerks brass didn’t need it for a long time. The details are in my review on the website.
do you anneal Lapua brass??
Great video!
Hey Sam, I just purchased the Anneal-Rite product from www.cartridgeanneal.com/ and I was talking to the man that makes/sells the product about outside vs. inside placement of the 750 Tempilaq. He said that when he was talking to the chemist of the Tempilaq that it would need to be placed on the inside of the neck area and would melt when the brass got to temp (method I used first time annealing). If placed on the outside the tempilaq would just burn/melt at flame temp and the brass would be inconsistent depending on how thick the Tempilaq was when brushed on. I annealed 100pc of 6.5cm all with the inside method and his manual annealing device (also only 140 bucks) which once a rhythm was established it was very fast. Brass felt great on full length sizing and shot my Berger 135 classic hunters w/20" barrel at an AVG. of 2645 w/SD of 5.9 w/H4350! I know you said it doesn't matter and this method works for you but thought I would pass this on. Love your videos, my go to youtube channel!
Do you anneal before doing anything else in the reloading process?
Clean, anneal, size
Sam, some people suggest using the 750 Tempilaq. Is 650 the "least" temperature maybe and 750 is the "highest" temperature? What's your thoughts on that? Thanks!
additude obx 750 is the target temp for brass to be annealed.
@@PanhandlePrecision Thanks Sam for the quick reply. You were using 650 in the annealing video. If 750 was the target temp why did you choose to use the 650? Thanks!
additude obx It’s in the video.👍🏻
The temp of 750 degrees requires that temp be held for 1 HOUR to reach the proper annealing of brass!!! In order to reduce the time to reach proper annealing, the temp must be increased.
Thanks!
Hi guys ı have 300win mag. I love long range shooting and hunting. My country ıbex paradise. I m using 230 berger hybrid and 210 berger vld. I have case problem. And ı make Just neck sizing. The templiaq is useful or not. And have a alternative thing templiaq. Because ı have no templiaq in My country thanks a lot.
thanks mate.
Do you know the AMP Annelaing Made Pefrect Machine? Am thinking about getting one to avoid user error. I load .308 and cant get under ES of 32. maybe this will do the trick. Have done everything else I can think of. Groups are about 0,5-0,6 MOA out to 330 yards (cant shooot further over here).
Thanks!
The AMP is a nice machine. If you get one, let us know if it fixed your problem.
Panhandle Precision will do. But might take a few month since there is supposed to come a new modell and i want to wait for it.
You are supposed to put the tempilaq inside the neck, not on the outside.
@John Beige yes it is, it comes with a paintbrush that you apply to the inside of the neck. Applying it to the outside only tells you the flame is above 750. Applying it inside tells you the brass is 750.
@@xdm9guy the flame isn't hitting the tempilaq. When the heat crawls down the case and hits the tempilaq, that means that spot on the case is 650 degrees, meaning everything above there is above 650 degrees.
Excellent video. Thank you!