Mine isn't ready to go until it starts ticking and rattling and knocking.I crank it up, let it run till it comes down to 1100 rpms let it warm up a little more,she starts a little tick,then a faint rattle and a minute later a slight knock from the clutch/balancer area and THEN she's ready to go
I do have one more question. Many people with the 1st gen 1300 talk about the ticking sound.. that there is a ticking? Do you know of this issue with these engines having a tick???
TECH WIZ Ticking only affects generation 1 bikes. Some bikes have it, others never have a problem. Ticking is caused by premature exhaust valve guide wear. Fixed in Gen 2 and later.
Its not too bad. Takes a bit of time, depending on the bike to get fairings etc removed. But its not too hard. Similar in difficulty to replacing a timing belt on a car. If you have to correct any clearances, then you need to remove the cams, which is just a matter of getting the engine to TDC and loosening the slack on the tensioner.
I changed the timing belt on my 4Runner a couple years ago and have done valve train work on cars. Gotta have a valve lash shim set in case adjustments need to be made. aperaceparts.com has them, but it's an entire set, so after using a few shims, the set will just collect dust, so it would be nice to find a local source for individual shims.
Well you better too have some slack on the clearance than been to tight.With heat expension the gap become short and you can burn the valve seat,,.i it is .006 and you have 7 or tight 8 it is not a big deal at least for me i would let it this way. Again ,for my experiences,a loose valve clearance is way better than to tight but been professionnal as this gntleman it is the better way! i wonder what is the duration between valve adjustment??? Gef
A lot of people don't have experience using feeler gauges or understanding how valve clearance works. And there are a lot of other videos on UA-cam that have already covered tank and valve cover removal.
You spend way too much time talking about your "shim" tool by which I think you mean feeler gauge. What we want to know is where to position the cam lobe for each of the 16 valves when we do the measurement. Why do other videos talk about using TDC? Why do other videos show the measurement taken when the lobe is pointing somewhere off to the side instead of straight up? Think about someone trying to do this job for the first time and what the actual steps they need to go through to get each of the 16 valve cams in the proper position to take the measurement. Assume we know how to use a feeler gauge and can do addition and subtraction. Those are the easy parts!
Just started on doing the valve clearance check on my 2005 fjr. I have everything stripped out and down to the coolant pipes. Is there a trick to getting the coolant pipes off? I have taken the two bolts out where the pipes drop into the valve cover and the two screws/bolts on top. Any advice on getting the pipes out? These feel really fixed still, and I didn’t want to use too much force.
Gordon Leech Wiggle back and forth, side to side a little at a time and they should come free. On a 2005 they just likely need a little bit of encouragement.
Great videos by the way. Have a question about removing the valve cover to seal a small oil leak coming form the front of the engine near number one cyclinder. My question is when removing the valve cover and gasket do the other small gaskets inside the valve cover stay in place or do you have to be very careful that they don't drop off? Cheers Jim
james cramer Depends on if you get lucky. I suggest using a very small amount of black rtv oil sealant to help adhere the gasket to the valve cover. Or if you buy a new gasket it might stay in place better.
Many thanks for your quick reply. What happens with the small seals inside the valve cover when removing it? Do they come off with the valve cover or do they stay in place? Did you have any problems getting to the front two outside valve cover bolts and if so whats the best way of doing it? Sorry for all the questions but I just want to make sure I know what to do when taking it off. Cheers Jim
Mine isn't ready to go until it starts ticking and rattling and knocking.I crank it up, let it run till it comes down to 1100 rpms let it warm up a little more,she starts a little tick,then a faint rattle and a minute later a slight knock from the clutch/balancer area and THEN she's ready to go
Very good video :) was thinking of getting one of these!! Glad I saw your video
TECH WIZ It is an excellent bike. I plan to post a more thorough valve clearance video when I do it in my own bike soon.
I do have one more question. Many people with the 1st gen 1300 talk about the ticking sound.. that there is a ticking? Do you know of this issue with these engines having a tick???
TECH WIZ Ticking only affects generation 1 bikes. Some bikes have it, others never have a problem. Ticking is caused by premature exhaust valve guide wear. Fixed in Gen 2 and later.
TECH WIZ See this article:
www.bestbits.org/ticking_overview.html
And that's wrong, you should have exhaust and intake exactly opposite....
Valve clearance check was something I planed to have a shop or the stealership do, but it doesn't seem as complex as I originally thought.
Its not too bad. Takes a bit of time, depending on the bike to get fairings etc removed. But its not too hard. Similar in difficulty to replacing a timing belt on a car.
If you have to correct any clearances, then you need to remove the cams, which is just a matter of getting the engine to TDC and loosening the slack on the tensioner.
I changed the timing belt on my 4Runner a couple years ago and have done valve train work on cars. Gotta have a valve lash shim set in case adjustments need to be made. aperaceparts.com has them, but it's an entire set, so after using a few shims, the set will just collect dust, so it would be nice to find a local source for individual shims.
Well you better too have some slack on the clearance than been to tight.With heat expension the gap become short and you can burn the valve seat,,.i it is .006 and you have 7 or tight 8 it is not a big deal at least for me i would let it this way.
Again ,for my experiences,a loose valve clearance is way better than to tight but been professionnal as this gntleman it is the better way! i wonder what is the duration between valve adjustment???
Gef
Wow, the tank and valve cover magically removed themselves?who DOESN'T know how to check the valve clearance once everything is out of the way?
A lot of people don't have experience using feeler gauges or understanding how valve clearance works. And there are a lot of other videos on UA-cam that have already covered tank and valve cover removal.
You spend way too much time talking about your "shim" tool by which I think you mean feeler gauge. What we want to know is where to position the cam lobe for each of the 16 valves when we do the measurement. Why do other videos talk about using TDC? Why do other videos show the measurement taken when the lobe is pointing somewhere off to the side instead of straight up? Think about someone trying to do this job for the first time and what the actual steps they need to go through to get each of the 16 valve cams in the proper position to take the measurement. Assume we know how to use a feeler gauge and can do addition and subtraction. Those are the easy parts!
as long as the lobe is up on which ever valve you do then you check with feelers i do exhaust first then the inlets
Just started on doing the valve clearance check on my 2005 fjr. I have everything stripped out and down to the coolant pipes. Is there a trick to getting the coolant pipes off? I have taken the two bolts out where the pipes drop into the valve cover and the two screws/bolts on top. Any advice on getting the pipes out? These feel really fixed still, and I didn’t want to use too much force.
Gordon Leech Wiggle back and forth, side to side a little at a time and they should come free. On a 2005 they just likely need a little bit of encouragement.
can anyone tell me what code 31 is please
Great videos by the way.
Have a question about removing the valve cover to seal a small oil leak coming form the front of the engine near number one cyclinder.
My question is when removing the valve cover and gasket do the other small gaskets inside the valve cover stay in place or do you have to be very careful that they don't drop off?
Cheers
Jim
james cramer Depends on if you get lucky. I suggest using a very small amount of black rtv oil sealant to help adhere the gasket to the valve cover. Or if you buy a new gasket it might stay in place better.
Many thanks for your quick reply. What happens with the small seals inside the valve cover when removing it? Do they come off with the valve cover or do they stay in place? Did you have any problems getting to the front two outside valve cover bolts and if so whats the best way of doing it? Sorry for all the questions but I just want to make sure I know what to do when taking it off.
Cheers
Jim
james cramer Jim, working on a full valve DIY video now on my 15. Hopefully that will help you. Should be published in about a week.
Too much talking
Dear Me this was dull. I came here looking for a valve Check video but I found a guy talking about feeler gauges and calling them shims 😂😂
Your tool is not a shim.
You even haven't got a basic tools for this job
I call this appalling