Nice craftsmanship! I did a set like this out of maple and they squeaked like crazy after a few months of traffic. Wish I thought of using those strong tie brackets like you.
I wish you named the bracket. Is it just a simpson strong tie bracket? when under the stairs you mention the gap between the brackets and the treads leading me to believe maybe they are something else
@@HandBuilt Oh great thank you! Also, you think this method is ok for installing treads/risers on existing treads risers (just getting longer pocket screws to account for the difference?). Otherwise was considering just sanding, using premium pl max, and some finishing nails to make sure the pl max sets right
@@myoploy if I was applying over existing treads I would glue them and screw from the bottom for the clamping pressure. Finish nails would also be acceptable if you want to go that route.
Great question Tyler. You can use a right angle drill adapter and start at the top step. You will have access to the step from the next one below because the riser won’t be nailed on yet. Secure the step then the riser then the next step. This will be the same process that I used. At the bottom you may need to nail one of them if you don’t have enough room to get under the last step (you should have room) but you can still do them all this way.
The next riser down from the step I’m Working with in the video is actually not secured. It’s just placed there. So just leave yours out until you secure the step so that you have access from the bottom of the steps
How do you fasten them Duayne? I didn’t want screws or nails on the top as I mentioned. How would you do it better Duayne? Just so the viewers here can benefit from your knowledge.
@@HandBuilt you install the skirts and risers first , I make sure the risers are connected to the skirts with screws making the structure rock solid , then fit the treads , , each tread should have a 3 - 5 degree bevel on the back. Now screw the through the riser into the back of the tread , because the back of the tread has a bevel the tread is forced to lay flat , make sure you use lots of PL premium under the tread , no visible nails !
@@duaynenaugle4186 Basically the same thing I did but I used brackets for extra good measure. Not everyone uses the same methods. I agree that your way will work just as well and if it’s a new install that may be a better option. Mine was a remodel.
@@HandBuilt and the fact that you don’t have make the connection through the underside of the stairway. I just make the connection through the next open riser from above. I’ve averaged 2 1/2 sets of stairways that way every week including handrails for over 20 years. And no problems with squeaks !
@@duaynenaugle4186 I agree with you. I just have had luck with the brackets and the liquid nail. I looked you up and it appears you are a high end stair builder. I’m not at all questioning your work after seeing your stairs you have done. Thank you for your input and I’ll try that on my next stairs.
The greatest human on UA-cam
Haha thanks best friend
Nah, Logan Paul is the greatest because he is dreamy. This guy is a 7 at best.
@@nerdestories5523 😂
Nice craftsmanship! I did a set like this out of maple and they squeaked like crazy after a few months of traffic. Wish I thought of using those strong tie brackets like you.
I have installed them with pocket hole screws before and they squeaked but these brackets have held up great. Thanks for the kind words!
Good stuff
I wish you named the bracket. Is it just a simpson strong tie bracket? when under the stairs you mention the gap between the brackets and the treads leading me to believe maybe they are something else
@@myoploy Good evening. It’s just a Simpson tie bracket.
@@HandBuilt Oh great thank you! Also, you think this method is ok for installing treads/risers on existing treads risers (just getting longer pocket screws to account for the difference?). Otherwise was considering just sanding, using premium pl max, and some finishing nails to make sure the pl max sets right
@@myoploy if I was applying over existing treads I would glue them and screw from the bottom for the clamping pressure. Finish nails would also be acceptable if you want to go that route.
What if you don't have access to the under part of the stairs?
Great question Tyler. You can use a right angle drill adapter and start at the top step. You will have access to the step from the next one below because the riser won’t be nailed on yet. Secure the step then the riser then the next step. This will be the same process that I used. At the bottom you may need to nail one of them if you don’t have enough room to get under the last step (you should have room) but you can still do them all this way.
The next riser down from the step I’m
Working with in the video is actually not secured. It’s just placed there. So just leave yours out until you secure the step so that you have access from the bottom of the steps
@@HandBuilt awesome man!! Thank you for the info!!!!
You should make a video on how to install a smart light switch!
You should make a video on how to make a video!
This looks like white oak treds.
I bleached them to look like white oak. ua-cam.com/video/VEUiM_B_Lw8/v-deo.html
Totally unnecessary , you can get a squeak free set of stairs without the brackets. And do it much faster
How do you fasten them Duayne? I didn’t want screws or nails on the top as I mentioned. How would you do it better Duayne? Just so the viewers here can benefit from your knowledge.
@@HandBuilt you install the skirts and risers first , I make sure the risers are connected to the skirts with screws making the structure rock solid , then fit the treads , , each tread should have a 3 - 5 degree bevel on the back. Now screw the through the riser into the back of the tread , because the back of the tread has a bevel the tread is forced to lay flat , make sure you use lots of PL premium under the tread , no visible nails !
@@duaynenaugle4186 Basically the same thing I did but I used brackets for extra good measure. Not everyone uses the same methods. I agree that your way will work just as well and if it’s a new install that may be a better option. Mine was a remodel.
@@HandBuilt and the fact that you don’t have make the connection through the underside of the stairway. I just make the connection through the next open riser from above. I’ve averaged 2 1/2 sets of stairways that way every week including handrails for over 20 years. And no problems with squeaks !
@@duaynenaugle4186 I agree with you. I just have had luck with the brackets and the liquid nail.
I looked you up and it appears you are a high end stair builder. I’m not at all questioning your work after seeing your stairs you have done. Thank you for your input and I’ll try that on my next stairs.