Thank you so much for this video. I have wanted to do this too, however my husband has been very reluctant. After seeing you both do yours he has agreed with me. We are moving forward on our staircase in the next two weeks. I will let you know. . .
Excellent narration and video. Helps so much for DIYers with small details everything covered. You set the benchmark and glad to came across your vodeo. Many many thanks for the video.. Keep up great work.
the end result made all the effort worth it. Ive literally spent days on just prepping the exact same carpeted stair situation. the dust is really old and I would suggest a good mask. your is the best end result Ive seen. Very well done. Subscribed.
My daughter painted her stairs which looked great initially, but over time with a lot of foot traffick they became very slippery and quite dangerous. Ended up having to re-carpet the whole stairs and landing area. Lesson learned!😊
I’m planning to stain and seal the treads and painting the risers. I just don’t like the artificial LVT look. Is this what she did, because slipperiness is something that crossed my mind.
@RoyRosales thats what I'm planning on doing as well. Hopefully not. I'm getting some rug treads too on Amazon, 15 for $60 and I think that should help with it being slippery
Good work! As a finish carpenter with young children, that would’ve taken me at least 3 months to complete 😂. I ripped out carpet in my dining room and installed LVP, but never got around to the shoe molding-that may take another year.
Great look. For now I will stay with carpet and recarpeting of our stairwell. The kids and their friends going up and down all day, the Klacking noise would drive me crazy I will wait till they are out of the house. And I will also install white carpet in my living room. Lol.
El problema de la alfombra es que por de bajo se concentra cantidad de polvo y en mi experiencia como instalador de pisos es muy malo para los pulmones en especial si hay niños . Planchas de vynil no recomiendo es muy resbaloso, siempre recomiendo planchas de madera sólida White oak ,red oak y pino , pero cada quien , depende mucho del presupuesto
You got a discernible seam in the middle of each stair tread where you glued the two pieces together. I would think that could effect the integrity of each tread as time goes by. Also, not sure I particularly like the aesthetic of it…But…that’s just me.
Incidentally, a very very timely video for us, Jason. Thanks! I was sort of getting upset at having hairline gaps at the stringers, good to know I'm not alone. Not enough to bother scribing each step though.
When I did a similar job on my stairs with laminate planks replacing carpets, we ran into a issue with the noise of the stairs. The became quite loud and creaky. From what I have read, you need a thick wood for the tread to absorb the sound.
Very handy the flooring came with stair bullnose piece. My laminate floor upstairs didn't have a matching stair/bullnose piece so have to get creative. Oak veneered mdf for the threads with a strip of real oak for the bullnose but its going to be probably trickier to install
De pasada aquí soy profesional en instalación y puedo garantizar que ese trabajo quedo100% garantizado te recomendaría a los ojos cerrados que haría un buen trabajo
Very nice, but so much work! We ripped the carpet off one of our past homes and left the bullnoses. We sanded and then stained to match the LVP we installed throughout the house. It took less than 2 days and it looked fantastic. We just bought another house with carpet (yuk) on stairs and about to do the same. Although yours was very nice and very professionally done, I have to admit, ours looked pretty good too. AND we didn't have to cut any wood to do it.
My understanding is to install the riser first and then butt the tread up to the riser. That way as you look at the stairs you won't see gaps at the base of the riser. Good video, lots of prep work but we'll worth it.
If you don't remove the existing treads, you will have a shorter rise on the top step and a higher rise on the bottom step in relation to the rest of the steps, which is not to code. Did you change the landing and bottom floor?
I've been professionally building custom stairs for about 25 yrs. When you add a plywood to 'each' riser the tread depth stays the same. What changes is moving the entire staircase forward the thickness of the plywood. So if its 1/2" ply then your entire stairs is moved forward 1/2". Usually that is no big deal. The bigger concern is that these flooring companies that sell these treads to match their flooring don't know how to make a real looking tread. They usually only have a 3/4" thick nosing on them (which looks like what he's using here) or sometimes they are way too thick like 1-1/2". A traditional wood tread measures around 1". Second, according to the IRC (International Residential Code) which most state codes are based off of, the nosing must hang over the riser by 3/4" to 1-1/4". and the radius can not be more than 9/16". I have yet to see a flooring company that make one to fit these requirements. Many overhang less than 3/4". Third when adding any kind of material directing over the main floor and/or the original treads and/or the second floor you risk violating code by changing the height of the risers either at the bottom or the top if you don't do the same on all 3 areas. This is hardly ever mentioned. Each riser MUST be the same height within 3/8" from the shortest to the tallest in a flight of stairs. There are so many variable that can change rise heights, but no one talks about it because they simply don't know what they are doing. Flooring manufactures aren't going to care or tell you they just want to sell you their product and DYI really don't know the code at all. In fact, most carpenter don't really build stair so they don't know either. You really need a professional finish carpenter that builds stair (not all finish carpenters do) that understands the code to look at the stairs and see what can and can not be done. People trip and fall all the time on stairs and many have died because of stairs no meeting code requirements.
@@t.e.1189 I agree. I've been a finish carpenter for decades, and I bring in my stair guy when working on treads, railings, etc. You want someone that does NOTHING but stairs. It is a sub-specialty within finish carpentry.
@@t.e.1189I second all of that. I've seen some completed overlay jobs done by flooring companies, and most all were hideous. Tread noses hanging out past the stringers and much more. I was all about stairs professionally for 25 years also. Circular and winders mostly...straight stairs were boring to me, although I was instrumental in manufacturing improvements.
I appreciate your detailed video. What about ordinary people who are not sponsored by Festool and have just regular mitre saw, circular saw and a table saw? Could you make a video for those people, please?
Was it more difficult or not feasible to remove those old stair treads and rises instead of cutting of those stair tread nose? I’m planning to do mine but trying to figure out what’s the best way to do it. Thanks
I didn’t have nosing on my stairs either. I’ve seen other videos where they filled in the n hollow space in the nosing, but I see you didn’t. Is that necessary?
I have question. When you removed the carpet, there is wood landers, why can’t just sand them nice and stain and just put only risers, since normally the risers are plywood and can’t be sanded and finished.
Hi. I recently discovered your channel, and am loving your content! I have a question regarding a video you did about a year ago on your assembly table, the gear for it, and how you set it up for breaking down sheet goods. You used a couple of arrow tools to space the track saw between the dogs. Do you happen to remember where you purchased those arrows? I just ordered my 3 Festool tables, and am putting the shopping list together for the other equipment you use. Thanks again! Dave Little
Hey, Jason a question - which size router did you use - seems like a beefy 1/2" shank one would get anywhere close to the corners. Did you just use the multi-tool for the remainder?
Thank you so much for this video. I have wanted to do this too, however my husband has been very reluctant. After seeing you both do yours he has agreed with me. We are moving forward on our staircase in the next two weeks. I will let you know. . .
I really like the work and the quality of it. It almost made me forget about the “see how many Festools I’ve got” vibe.
Felt threatened did you?
Thank you! Your wife should increase your allowance for the outstanding work and hard labor you did.
"I like fancy stuff"
Truer words were never said
Excellent narration and video. Helps so much for DIYers with small details everything covered. You set the benchmark and glad to came across your vodeo. Many many thanks for the video.. Keep up great work.
I’ve been building stair treads professionally for 137 years and this met my standards
😂😂😂 Now THAT’S the kind of expert comment we need more of.
Those are low standards,jesus😂
He needs to stick with making birdhouses.
Yes I remember the work you did 124 years ago. Long story short I haven’t hired you since!
Usually when someone adds how many years they have been doing stuff they are pretty good.
I heard you didn't start till your late 20s either. Sterling job sir.
the end result made all the effort worth it. Ive literally spent days on just prepping the exact same carpeted stair situation. the dust is really old and I would suggest a good mask. your is the best end result Ive seen. Very well done. Subscribed.
My daughter painted her stairs which looked great initially, but over time with a lot of foot traffick they became very slippery and quite dangerous. Ended up having to re-carpet the whole stairs and landing area. Lesson learned!😊
Women ☕
@@WiseOwl_1408Take your misogyny to your mommy, little man.
I’m planning to stain and seal the treads and painting the risers. I just don’t like the artificial LVT look. Is this what she did, because slipperiness is something that crossed my mind.
@RoyRosales thats what I'm planning on doing as well. Hopefully not. I'm getting some rug treads too on Amazon, 15 for $60 and I think that should help with it being slippery
Good work! As a finish carpenter with young children, that would’ve taken me at least 3 months to complete 😂. I ripped out carpet in my dining room and installed LVP, but never got around to the shoe molding-that may take another year.
Lol I totally get it. I still haven’t done our baseboards since installing our flooring
Haha. That long? Even scribing it is only a 3 day job.
Great look. For now I will stay with carpet and recarpeting of our stairwell. The kids and their friends going up and down all day, the Klacking noise would drive me crazy I will wait till they are out of the house. And I will also install white carpet in my living room. Lol.
El problema de la alfombra es que por de bajo se concentra cantidad de polvo y en mi experiencia como instalador de pisos es muy malo para los pulmones en especial si hay niños . Planchas de vynil no recomiendo es muy resbaloso, siempre recomiendo planchas de madera sólida White oak ,red oak y pino , pero cada quien , depende mucho del presupuesto
Most helpful video! I was not sure about connection from the top of the stair and flooring but it solved my problem! Thank you!!
Glad it helped!
Excellent job. You made it look easy but I know from doing these things in the past it is a skilled job
Thanks 👍
I've done stairs in the past and getting it done with no gaps can be tricky. Nice job.
Thanks for making this video. I plan to do this on my home as well. This video has helped me a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
This is what I call perfection....amazing job 👍
Thank you so much 😀
You got a discernible seam in the middle of each stair tread where you glued the two pieces together. I would think that could effect the integrity of each tread as time goes by. Also, not sure I particularly like the aesthetic of it…But…that’s just me.
Its meant to look like two separate pieces…
Wow that actually looks amazing. I really don't say that much as well.
Incidentally, a very very timely video for us, Jason. Thanks! I was sort of getting upset at having hairline gaps at the stringers, good to know I'm not alone. Not enough to bother scribing each step though.
😂😂😂😂😂
Great job. I did the same and found the vinyl is very slippery. Think of a kid running down the stairs with socks on.
I hear ya brother. Just finished ripping up carpet accros 35 treads including removal of those timber tack strips, pulling our of staples and nails.
When I did a similar job on my stairs with laminate planks replacing carpets, we ran into a issue with the noise of the stairs. The became quite loud and creaky. From what I have read, you need a thick wood for the tread to absorb the sound.
Very handy the flooring came with stair bullnose piece. My laminate floor upstairs didn't have a matching stair/bullnose piece so have to get creative. Oak veneered mdf for the threads with a strip of real oak for the bullnose but its going to be probably trickier to install
How is your project going?
Great video Thanks
Glad you liked it!
No comment at all you did a great job
مشالله تبارك الرحمن مبدع ممتاز الشغل ذا جميل خالص نشكرك لقد استفدنا من هذا الفيديو .
Glad to hear that
De pasada aquí soy profesional en instalación y puedo garantizar que ese trabajo quedo100% garantizado te recomendaría a los ojos cerrados que haría un buen trabajo
Sanding the back of the tread is definitely a level 10 move. I don’t need to say it. But good job.
Nice professional job!
Thanks!
Very nice, but so much work! We ripped the carpet off one of our past homes and left the bullnoses. We sanded and then stained to match the LVP we installed throughout the house. It took less than 2 days and it looked fantastic. We just bought another house with carpet (yuk) on stairs and about to do the same. Although yours was very nice and very professionally done, I have to admit, ours looked pretty good too. AND we didn't have to cut any wood to do it.
I was thinking the very same thing! I would never remove bull noses to put on bull noses. Makes no sense. Stain or paint and varnish. You’re done.
Fantastic work and great video with many great tips. Thank you for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
I'm always wearing the Pods at work too. What are you listening to? Me, usually Eddie Trunk, Ozzy's Boneyard, or the Jim Florentine podcast.
Little bit of everything honestly
Nice tread jig 👌
Most expensive too set I’ve ever seen lol bros got EVERYTHING festool lol
Beautiful job and great video!
Thank you very much!
excellent work ...
Thanks a lot!
Great video. Easily understood. Thanks
I like fancy stuff too 😊
Looks good Richard 👍🏼
That's a big job man
Does adhesive need to be used? Should I want to remove it in the later years
My understanding is to install the riser first and then butt the tread up to the riser. That way as you look at the stairs you won't see gaps at the base of the riser. Good video, lots of prep work but we'll worth it.
Which way is the correct way? Install the riser first then the treads or the treads then the riser ?
You do beautiful work! Ty!
Thank you so much!
Awesome video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Very nice video and great work!!!
So professional n easy method
If you don't remove the existing treads, you will have a shorter rise on the top step and a higher rise on the bottom step in relation to the rest of the steps, which is not to code. Did you change the landing and bottom floor?
That's right, that treadvis now short.
To correct, each tread must now be increased by 2x the lip he cut off.
I'm doing the same on my stairs now
Beautiful
Thank you
Love the bird house hammer he’s using. 😂
Great vedio
Looks mint…👍
Thanks 👍
Looks good. I would have kept the stair nose and used hollow nose planks.
Using the pry bar the opposite way would take the tack strips off easier. 😁 teto
Nice job thx
LOVE
Hello from Martinsville!
Hello there!
looks wonderful
Nice video! Question on treads, any concern with loss of tread depth due to the installation of the plywood facing?
I've been professionally building custom stairs for about 25 yrs. When you add a plywood to 'each' riser the tread depth stays the same. What changes is moving the entire staircase forward the thickness of the plywood. So if its 1/2" ply then your entire stairs is moved forward 1/2". Usually that is no big deal.
The bigger concern is that these flooring companies that sell these treads to match their flooring don't know how to make a real looking tread. They usually only have a 3/4" thick nosing on them (which looks like what he's using here) or sometimes they are way too thick like 1-1/2". A traditional wood tread measures around 1".
Second, according to the IRC (International Residential Code) which most state codes are based off of, the nosing must hang over the riser by 3/4" to 1-1/4". and the radius can not be more than 9/16". I have yet to see a flooring company that make one to fit these requirements. Many overhang less than 3/4".
Third when adding any kind of material directing over the main floor and/or the original treads and/or the second floor you risk violating code by changing the height of the risers either at the bottom or the top if you don't do the same on all 3 areas. This is hardly ever mentioned. Each riser MUST be the same height within 3/8" from the shortest to the tallest in a flight of stairs. There are so many variable that can change rise heights, but no one talks about it because they simply don't know what they are doing. Flooring manufactures aren't going to care or tell you they just want to sell you their product and DYI really don't know the code at all. In fact, most carpenter don't really build stair so they don't know either.
You really need a professional finish carpenter that builds stair (not all finish carpenters do) that understands the code to look at the stairs and see what can and can not be done. People trip and fall all the time on stairs and many have died because of stairs no meeting code requirements.
@@t.e.1189 I agree. I've been a finish carpenter for decades, and I bring in my stair guy when working on treads, railings, etc. You want someone that does NOTHING but stairs. It is a sub-specialty within finish carpentry.
@@t.e.1189I second all of that. I've seen some completed overlay jobs done by flooring companies, and most all were hideous. Tread noses hanging out past the stringers and much more. I was all about stairs professionally for 25 years also. Circular and winders mostly...straight stairs were boring to me, although I was instrumental in manufacturing improvements.
I appreciate your detailed video. What about ordinary people who are not sponsored by Festool and have just regular mitre saw, circular saw and a table saw? Could you make a video for those people, please?
What wood you used for threads, noose and rrisers ? Thanks for sharing, good instruction and very neat
Awesome!
Glad you think so!
Can you have a wood riser and a carpet tread that has a bullnose?
How much for the materials?
Sorry if I missed but what thickness was your risers and what would? Wanting to do paint grade wood but not sure what to pick
So when measuring the wood do u have to add inches to the original stairway size ?
Nice work! But is it not better extending the stairs
Is it necessary to remove the existing bullnose? Or is it possible to install new nosing over top with a 90 degree piece underneath to fit ?
Thanks
I rarely comment on videos, but brilliant. Made it look simple.
Was it more difficult or not feasible to remove those old stair treads and rises instead of cutting of those stair tread nose? I’m planning to do mine but trying to figure out what’s the best way to do it. Thanks
Where did u buy the top stair wood? Or laminate
What material did you use for the treads. Thank you
Great work! What size router bit did u use ? The grit paper what number should I buy I’m struggling with the sanding ..
What material did you use for the risers?
What should you do if you can't get the bullnose cut completely straight?
Ok on a nice newish floor like yours,but mine is 130 years old so it may take a bit more time to do it
To remove the tack strip you just need to tap the side of them with a hammer where the nails are and they come up easy.
I didn’t have nosing on my stairs either. I’ve seen other videos where they filled in the n hollow space in the nosing, but I see you didn’t. Is that necessary?
Where do I buy the treads and the stair nosing? Thanks
Where can I find quick little jig, I want to buy, thanks.
Can I stick tiles on old sticking tiles.
I have question. When you removed the carpet, there is wood landers, why can’t just sand them nice and stain and just put only risers, since normally the risers are plywood and can’t be sanded and finished.
Hi. I recently discovered your channel, and am loving your content!
I have a question regarding a video you did about a year ago on your assembly table, the gear for it, and how you set it up for breaking down sheet goods. You used a couple of arrow tools to space the track saw between the dogs. Do you happen to remember where you purchased those arrows?
I just ordered my 3 Festool tables, and am putting the shopping list together for the other equipment you use.
Thanks again!
Dave Little
They actually came with the track hinge from dashboard. He may send something different now.
Is there a way to renovate stairs without cutting exsiting stair nose
what about two 3/8 strip on each riser to keep the 90 angle 🤔
Where can i get these flooring pieces
Is the bull nose cut for a specific look or is there a reason it's cut.
Where are the risers and threads from?
Hey, Jason a question - which size router did you use - seems like a beefy 1/2" shank one would get anywhere close to the corners. Did you just use the multi-tool for the remainder?
For cutting wood is bad idea, stick extra wood underneath to make the flat service you need.
why did u cut the bullnose from the step? I have seen it both ways. some people cut- others do not cut them back
Nice job!👍 what is a price for stairs like that?
how did you did the qtr turns
Stair video.. the bull nose..where is that from? Same place you get flooring? New to your channel but this was timely
Did you have to rip the risers?
Nice.. when I did my stairs I had saw thru the ends of a 2x12.
Not fun and very, very noisy and chaotic.
You do really like your toys one for the job
👌🏾
I feel like it would’ve been easier to sand what was there and stain/paint it?
What would it cost to have someone install just the stairs? If the carpet is all removed and ready to go
Treating and/or painting the bare stairs after you'd removed the carpet would have given similar results with a lot less work