Old Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Tine And Wheel Axle Seal Replacement
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- Old Troy Bilt Horse Tiller Tine And Wheel Axle Seal Replacement
This old rear-tine Troy-Bilt Horse tiller was due for some maintenance. It has the 6 HP Tecumseh engine and serial number 376543. Axles and rear tine seals were leaking, so I ordered a kit with both types of seals. After doing those, I noticed the drive shaft seal was also leaking. I'll have a video for that shortly. • Old Troy-Bilt Horse Ti...
Seal Kit: amzn.to/3rfWckC
Seal Remover and Installer Kit: amzn.to/44u2R99
Aircat Ratchet Wrench: amzn.to/3r8lvou
Aeropro Aluminum Air Impact Wrench: amzn.to/3JKlhKQ
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Thanks for watching!!!
00:00 This is a great tiller
00:58 Shroud removal
01:25 Tiller tine removal
02:42 Right side tiller tine seal removal
03:05 Right side tiller tine seal installation
04:02 Left side tiller tine seal removal
05:18 Left side tiller tine seal installation
06:05 Left side tine reinstallation
06:27 Right side tine reinstallation
06:46 Shroud reinstallation
07:19 Wheel removal
07:50 Left side axle seal removal
08:33 Left side axle seal installation
09:12 Right side axle seal removal
09:26 Right side axle seal installation
10:06 Tiller handle removal
10:42 Draining gear box oil
11:43 Wheel reinstallation
11:57 Handle reinstallation - Навчання та стиль
My local lawn equipment repair place did this job twice on same tiller and screwed it up both times. Charged me stupid money to work on it then wouldn't fix what they messed up. They actually said this is what you can expect with old equipment. Needless to say they will never touch anything of mine again. Thanks for the link to the parts.
This video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much.
Mine was so old and used I had to replace the entire drive gear and axle. I have done this job about three times.
If you don't mind me asking, where'd you buy your parts at? Mine is a 1971 Horse 1 model and hadn't ever had any maintenance done on it. So besides new seals and at least one new bearing I think it needs a new driveshaft. The worm gear looks like,e it's messed up on the back end. It really chewed up the brass worm gear on the tine shaft. Mine has one solid shaft for the tines. I noticed on later models they went to separate bolts one on each side. A new driveshaft isn't cheap. The best price I've found is $350. And I'm also having trouble finding the correct brass worm gear that goes on the tine shaft. I don't know if the tine bearings need to be replaced. They don't seem to have much slop in them. I've seen all kinds of worm gear kits for newer tillers but really none for Mine. I measured mine and they're just a little bit smaller than all the ones on Amazon or Ebay. I checked with one other place but they want over $200 for that same kit for mine. Just because it's older they figure they can charge 4 times what a newer one costs. Do you have a reasonable place where you buy your parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@larryarmstrong6973 it was years ago and I bought them through Troy built. My son owns the tiller now and he has done some work on it too. I will ask him where be gets his parts and let you know.
Thanks for posting this! I was not expecting to find a how to for my 40 year old machine. Also I was about to pay $45 plus shipping on the TroyBilt website for just the tine seals. Never thought to look on Amazon.
Great video..
I am rebuilding my old Troy-Bilt horse with a 8 horse Kohler motor.
I found a quick way to remove the tine axel seal.. U took an old nail punch That I dont care about and punch four holes in the side of the seal then inserted the point of the nail punch and hit downward on the end and worked my way around to each hole and out popped the old seal.
I am trying to find the rear seal for the drive shaft.. I have replaced the front one but I having a problem finding the rear one.
Great video!! I waded through a few until I found yours... Some others remove stuff but dont show it but you did... Thanks a bunch.
Brian
Awesome video! Exactly what I needed to see to repair my neighbors old 8hp Troy bilt. There's no model number on it but it's exactly like yours other than 8hp. Thank you!
The model should be stamped on top of transmission right hand side when standing by handles. Probably covered in dirt.
@@jimstraightshooter163 Thank you! This one has the serial number stamped there...... Still on the search for a model number but your reply is greatly appreciated!
@@bob5944-1 No model number if it was made prior to 1990. My 1967 does not have one, just the serial number.
I have a 1974 horse that the tine seals started leaking over winter. The only thing ever replaced was the original engine. A Clinton. Put a 5 horse flathead briggs 30 + yrs ago. I still have manuals and parts book. 140 gl3 gear oil recommended because some brass parts. Cant find gl3 , gl1 or gl4 best. Says 90 might leak.Thanks for posting.
I’ve got one just like I’ve got the horse, and the super bronco. Love both of them , the six and half motor on the bronco was smoking, carb was wore out , so I went to harbor freight got a predator 10 hp and put on it works great way more power , great video man
this really helped a lot. i just wish i could find a gasket for the muffler of this kohler 8 i got on mine
Thank you. Great video.
Nice
Great Job Brother!!!!!!!!!!!! Watched the whole Video. Love it!!!!
Great job. I have a 81 model horse. Need to remove wheel to repair leak. Thanks
Bought one 3 months ago and, put gear oil in it. It all ran out. Guess I have to do this job. Put new carb on it and it busted off. Should have good tiller.
I made up a gearbox breather cap for mine. Seems to be less leaky at all points now.
Thanks for the tip
I think the reverse plunger on the transmission top cover acts as a breather if pressure builds, but possibly a more direct breather would be more functional.
Nice job thanks for the demo on seal replacement. Are all the old two speed Horse models the same seal kit? Thanks
I don’t know for sure, but my guess is yes.
just got taking mine apart as the bearings needed to be shimed as they had to much play,,,not good for rollers...you dont neet to take the hood off to work on it,,
Old one GREAT ! DO NOT buy a NEW one though, piece of MTD CRAP. My old one was 22 years old and had to do work on it mainly from a plastic tank coming apart and clogging carb, other that that was still tough as nailsm the new one I got 10 years ago is nothing but cheap crap at a ridiculous price