Old Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Drive Shaft Seal Replacement - Now Your Tines Won't Turn
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- Old Troy-Bilt Horse iller Drive Shaft Seal Replacement - Now Your Tines Won't Turn
After changing the axle seals and rear tine seals • Old Troy-Bilt Horse Ti... , I noticed the drive shaft was leaking oil as well. These old Troy Bilt tillers work great and are so reliable that it's worth putting some money into them to keep them going. This one has the 6 HP Tecumseh engine and serial number 376543. Since I already was going to drain the gear box, I decided now was the time to go ahead and change out the drive shaft seal. I also had to figure out why my drive shaft had too much play in it. After all this, the tines wouldn't turn. In the end, I got it all back together and it's working great!
Drive Shaft Replacement Seal: amzn.to/43qinlm
Aircat Air Ratchet: amzn.to/3DapZOp
SAE 140 Gear Oil: amzn.to/46OfLRe
Axle seal and rear tine seal replacement: • Old Troy-Bilt Horse Ti...
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Thanks for watching!!!
00:00 It's time to change this seal
01:03 Serial number location
01:16 Motor shroud removal
01:34 Lever linkage removal
01:47 Pin removal
03:04 Belt removal
03:32 Motor removal
04:13 Gearbox pulley removal
04:32 Snap ring removal
05:19 Drive shaft collar and seal removal
06:10 Tiller handle removal
06:25 Gear box lid removal
07:04 Troubleshooting excessive drive shaft play
07:16 Shimming drive shaft bearing
08:59 Reassembly of drive shaft collar
09:18 Drive shaft seal installation
09:34 Snap ring installation
09:36 Gear box pulley installation
09:55 Gear box oil fill
10:43 Gear box lid installation
11:32 Handle reinstallation
11:40 Motor reinstallation
11:51 Motor pin reinstallation
13:22 Lever linkage reinstallation
13:40 Motor shroud reinstallation
14:06 Trial run - Tines aren't turning
14:30 Tine shaft exposure
14:42 Why tines won't turn
16:06 Key reinstallation
16:32 Rear tine casing reassembly
17:38 Garden trial - Навчання та стиль
Stellar stuff man....and great timing! Just had ours out this past weekend and the more I ran it, I noticed oil leaking from the drive shaft area, and it just became more and more underpowered. Looks like I may be doing the exact same repairs you did...much appreciated! Thanks to your camerawoman for doing such a great job as well being able to clearly see what you were doing!
Thanks!
This was timely. I have the same leak and the same amount of play in the shaft.
Man I really like your vice grip slide hammer. Good job
Thank you
Rock on, man! Excellent instructional video. I'm in the process of replacing the axle seals and tine shaft seals on a 1977 model i picked up and wouldn't be surprised if i have to go a lot further like you had to do here. Thankfully these are fairly simple machines. Thanks for taking the time to show the way. 🙏
Good luck!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Nice clear video. Thanks
Thanks for replying. I was a little worried about it, but I just checked mine. I’m waiting for my new field to come in today and really there is no place to speak of. May be a hint of movement in and out sideways and up and down nothing it’s very tight shaft I think I’m gonna be OK justreplacing the seal thanks for your input. I appreciate it.
Thanks for sharing. Glad I found you. My rear tines aren’t turning went through the PTO to the tines no luck had not looked at the backend of the tines hope this fixes my problem. Thanks again
Great troubleshooting tutorial. I just did this last night, following this video + the original owners manual (1973 Horse). One difference I noticed, the transmission repair manual says the washers or shims go under the other cap, at the other end of the shaft, back by the tines. Possibly has to do with alignment of the worm gears.
Also in case anyone else needs to find the real shims, I founds mine at custom Parts Inc. - item number: CP1325C is a variety pack. Reasonable price and fast shipping.
i’m doing this tomorrow, curious did your s have the play his did? i did see the shims go on the other end according to the schematic.
Yep. Same play. Mine was wobbling around enough to allow oil past the seal. Solved by the shims. The spec for acceptable in/out play of the shaft is 0.002-0.010, observed by holding the shaft in place while rocking the tines back and forth.
Also good to replace the seal while in there. Recommended to remove burrs from the shaft with 400 grit sandpaper so the new seal doesn’t get messed up while installing over the shaft.
Good luck! Check back here if you run into issues. I just did this last month. Tilled the garden a week ago, trouble free.
Jordan, have you had to replace any other parts on your tiller yet? Ours is a co😮😮uple years older than yours and after tearing it apart down to the transmission ( I didn't tear into it) I have found that mine needs a new driveshaft plus a new worm gear and bearings on the tine shaft. But all I'm seeing on the net are for newer tillers with a part number for the gear being 11527/ GW1064. According to MTD mine has a part number for the gear being 1205 and the bearings being GW1735. Where have you ordered your parts from? I've tried a number of different places with no luck for the worm gear and tine bearings. I actually found 3 driveshafts, the least expensive being $350. Ouch. But I'm not going to order one until I find out if I can get the worm gear and bearings for the tine shaft. Any help would be appreciated. Ok, I called MTD back again and got a different guy. The first guy was from Oregon then the second guy was from Ohio. Same company same phone number but 2 different places. The 2nd guy gave me different info from the first guy, completely different. John, the second guy said they do sell the worm gear and bearings in a kit but it sells for like $229 or something like that. I can buy the worm gear part # 2675 off ebay and other places but trying to find the correct bearings part #1735 is getting to be a little more of a challenge. According to John, the worm gear and bearings comes as a kit but I'm not finding a kit. Just the gear itself.
@@larryarmstrong6973 try custom Parts Inc. That's where I found everything I needed. Mine probably needs a new worm gear too, but for now it's working good.
Suggestion: face book page: Troy bilt (garden way) root tiller fans. Alan whisler, member. Know everything about these horse tillers. Truly imho the knowledgeable person who is willing to help.
Awesome video! Got a Oct 1980 gardenway myself with the same leak. Need to do input shaft seal and tine shaft seals on mine. That's the 7hp Kohler engine, by the way.
Disregard the comment on which engine. Got ahead of myself. I was thinking of the appearance of the 8hp. My apologies.
Need to tell camera person to do more close ups- please.
Get work Rusty ove the old tiller. Just got one yesterday and it needs 20 years of help.
Rustic handyman, have you ever postsd a link to any place or places where you get your troybilt parts from? I've found a lot of different places on the net which sell parts for these things but some are pricier than others.
I haven’t bought too many parts for my tiller yet, except for seals. I got those off of Amazon. Partstree.com might be a place to check out as well.
I have a question, before you worked on it, did the tiller make any unwanted noises when the tines were digging in the dirt? I just got one of these tillers yesterday and it makes a racket when the tines face resistance in the dirt. The main shaft in mine really moves back and forth quite a bit and it also leaked gear oil when i tilted the thing forward to work on the back end. I'll probably be doing pretty much what you did on yours. Thanks for posting this video. It answered a few questions i had about these things.
Mine was not making noise. It sounds like yours is skipping teeth or something like that. Possibly you got more play than I had in mine. Good luck. Definitely sounds like you have bad seals!
@@therustichandyman You were so right. After watching the video I had to dig in and find the trouble. Yeah the seal was bad because the rear bearing was gone! All that was there was the inner and outer races. The rollers were gone so the rear of the shaft could not only go up and down, causing the gear skipping but the shaft could also move back allowing the snap ring at the front of the shaft to get into the front seal. I'm sure after the new parts arrive it'll be good as new! Thanks for the inspiration for me to figure it out!
Really appreciate your vid and the quality of it. I am trying to find the link to the seal you replaced. I don’t see a link to it. Would you please post the part number that you used? Thanks very much.
@@user-sg9gv1lu3m this should be it. www.amazon.com/REPLACEMENTKITS-COM-Different-Mini-Tiller-921-04044-721-04044/dp/B09CBVDVKK
@@dirtyburd71DIRTYBIRD,YOU SEEM TO HAVE HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN TO YOURS AS HAPPENED to ours. Our front bearing was OK on the driveshaft but there was nothing left of the rear bearing. The rollers were in the bottom of the tine shaft housing mixed in with all the sludge. So in looking at the back end of the driveshaft, it appears there is some of it missing. Without having a new one to compare it to I don't know what it is supposed to look like. I have found a number of driveshafts on the net but they are pricey at $350 on up to over $400!! Ouch!! I also have to replace the tine worm gear and bearings. Have you had any of the tine stuff apart? You might want to look at that if you haven't had it apart yet. Where have you been getting your parts from? There are a ton of places that sell parts for these things but some are pricier than others.
I have to replace the drive shaft bearings on my Troy-Bilt horse model 2059. What is the correct order to install them.
I haven't done that on mine. But I believe you should be able to find a service manual that could help you on this page. manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do?model_num=horse&serial_num=1&doSearch=Y
Thanks for the info I will check it out.
What is that tool you use at the 3:00 minute mark?
ua-cam.com/users/shorts0OPriDIghJA?si=gjb7rpbiNbYcznI3
I made it. I sent you a video for a closer view.