Busting Clay Soil With a Troy Bilt Horse Tiller | Part 1 | Man About Home
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2022
- This is Part 1
Busting Clay Soil | Troy Bilt Horse Tiller | Part 1 | Man About Home
A vegetable garden has been on our wish list for quite a while. This year seems like a good time to get to it! However, with our heavy clay soil it's a much bigger job than I ever thought it would be. And I'm new to the idea and methods of conditioning clay soil.
I picked up a used Troy Bilt Horse roto tiller, to make the job "easier". Having this tiller is actually what made this garden even possible. I never would've done it without the Troy Bilt Tiller and my Ford
Tractor with its front loader.
Please enjoy watching my Tiller and Clay soil learning curves as I figure out how to make this happen.
Thank you for watching!
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Clay soil | Troy Bilt | Troy Bilt Horse | Roto Tiller | Troy Bilt tiller | Clay | Compost | soil | tiller - Навчання та стиль
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Just picked up a 1971 horse and it runs like a champ. Need to make a few repairs that are super easy and cheap.
Congrats! After some simple adjustments this year, mine is running better than ever. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I still enjoy watching these videos. I used to till gardens as a hobby/ sideline business in the 90's. Managed to find a 1946 Graham Paige B 16 rs from the original owner. Did the repairs necessary to make it functional. Best tiller ever built. Massive two stroke engine, two speed spring tines. Handlebars adjusted up and down also side to side.
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed!
I moved back home and bought the farmstead after my parents passed and got dads Troy built running. Couldn’t imagine how many years it sat. Got it over to where I’m going to till, tines down so a shallow dig. 😳 It about liked to pull my arms off. I watch this and you’re just digging away with nearly no effort. Dads tiller just jumped around and sped away, had me running after it. I’ve got to be doing something wrong. My GOD it nearly ruined me. 😂😂😂
That was my first experience when I was first breaking the established sod... in hard clay soil. It bucked and pulled and I had a tough time holding onto it. Now I know when I'm breaking hard ground I have to set the tines to dig only an inch or two. And then it takes 8 to ten passes to get to a decent depth. My soil only looks that good because I added three trailer loads of fine compost and tilled it into the clay. Without adding more organic material to the hard clay, it will compact and get hard again (and sticky, muddy when wet), and impossible to till. I'm getting more compost this year to continue amending the soil and breaking up the smaller clods of clay that are still remaining. One good tip.... if you can sharpen the tines, similar to how you'd sharpen lawnmower blades (check out my video on that), they will cut better in tough soil. Thanks for sharing your experience. I can relate to it! And thank you for watching!
Also to those who do not know- my tiller from the seventies and others like it does not have any way to stop the tines rotating when the engine is running. So when you reverse, best to do it slow and gently!
Interesting video. You did well for a novice tiller operator with the benefit of the TBH being a forgiving unit. Your soil actually looks like it should be easy work for the TBH. It may be former farm land. Suggestion for future videos: do you want viewers to hear dialog or music? Viewers can play their own music if they feel the need.
Breaking my soil isn't even easy work for a jackhammer. Rock hard clay. After it's been blended with ample compost, it's fine. This is an older video. My latest videos have hardly any music. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! I too have a Horse, with a Kohler 8hp, and I too have heavy clay soil. I found the best way to bust clay is cutting it with a subsoiler first, then come back with the tiller to finely chop the clay pieces. I realize not everyone have a tractor, but even a small old subcompact, or large garden tractor, can make easy work tilling clay down to 12" with a subsoiler.
Thank you! That's a good tip. We're considering enlarging our garden area... may need to look into a subsoiler. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I'm really enjoying your videos on your Troybilt Horse. I picked one up a couple weekends ago(an 1986 I think) It needed a little TLC like yours. Your videos are a great source of what works and what doesn't.
Happy to hear it! Thank you for watching.
Nice video! Troy Bilt Horse is a wonderful machine slow and easy and knowing when is key. Sometimes you're better off taking a little and leaving a little and coming back later to drier ground. Clay is real good at holding moisture and wanting to ball up.Your garden looks Great and you have lots of room to expand with no pesky trees! We have a small garden about 10x30 and gonna double it to 20x30, 10 ft is just too narrow with a fence around it. Big Beef tomatoes and Crimson Sweet watermelon are our favorites at our location here in Clay County Missouri.
Thank you! I'm learning as I go and I'm discovering everything you've said is true. I couldn't have done it without the Troy Bilt Horse. Our big harvest surprised us this year, even though planting was delayed a month by working the clay and family events. But we were drowning in Cherry tomatos, so we'll adjust next year and plant more bigger ones. Our garden will be expanded to 20x30 in the Spring. I'd love to expand faster but the clay is slowing us down! Thanks for watching and commenting!
My recommendation is to disengage the tines before putting it in reverse! You definitely don't want those tines walking up your legs. I have one and it can be a scary beast. I'm not using mine again until I can get some restoration work done on it. The throttle control will not kill the engine and it can be really hard to put it into neutral. Whew!
You don't "put it in reverse". Reverse is just a rubber surface on one pulley rubbing against the other pulley. You have to hold it hard to get it to move. Let go, and it stops. There's no way it's going to walk up your legs. If you put a little oil on the moving linkages it'll probably go into neutral a lot easier... mine gets easier every time I oil it. Good luck with your machine. And thanks for watching!
Agreed with Man About Homes assessment of the reverse usage and dangers. They are made to not lock into reverse. If yours does lock into reverse you should consult the manual and adjust back to specs or have it professionally done.
Just Subscribed. I just bought a troy built at a auction yeaterday. $35 . so now we have 4 troy builts. This latestone is the horse like yours.
Great! You got a bargain if it's a runner. Good luck with it, and thank you for watching and subscribing!
You need to spray and kill the grass first. That grass is thick and intertwined. After it dies then till. It still is hard the first time but over time it will work much better. You should consider planting a cover crop. My Dad's Troy Horse tiller from the 1980 still works fine for me.
Thanks. This video is two years old. The cover crop is an interesting idea. That's what the farmers do here. Yeah, these old tillers do a good job. Thanks for watching.
I love these tillers I have two . If your not careful it will give you a real licking . 😂
It definitely kicked my butt more than ounce!
I should have watched this video before I attempted to test out my horse…… I fired it up, Jammed the tines into the ground, the engine realized it needed more power and doubled in rpm’s and took off with me hanging on for dear life…. I somehow was able to bring it to a halt after literally running behind it for 30-40 feet…not sure how?…. But after my heart rate returned back to normal I gave it a better look over…. I found many linkages needed oil… The throttle cable would only operate full on or idle….. I couldn’t shut the engine off with the hand control…. And the tiller control needed adjusting…. It wouldn’t stay in neutral……. But I think I’ve got it now….. Tomorrow is round two…… Thanks for putting up this video…..
You're welcome! I just discovered another tip that helped a lot yesterday, when I tilled for the first time this season. I sharpened the tines with an angle grinder, using a flap disc. I learned that sharp tines cut into hard soil a lot better than dull tines, and it made my work a lot easier. The machine didn't kick much, unlike last year. It's well worth the effort. Thanks for watching and good luck!
I have found that if I want to go at one or two notches down for the first pass and just leave it at that during the second past third and fourth it steadily grinds down into the earth and produces a fluffy layer in the hard clay soil of Southern California. That said, I am now in northern Idaho was very different soil, and this spring I will be putting in a garden for myself and for my daughter it should be most interesting to see how this goes
Same here. I have to use multiple passes and gradually cut deeper with each new pass. Good luck in Idaho!
Pointed tines are worn out tines ,let the tiller plow do not foce it, can cause injury by kicking up and striking you. Also can be rapidly propelled foward by plow tines when tires loose traction. My brother found out when it bucked and struck him between the legs!
Those are all true points that were demonstrated in the video! Thanks for watching!
A new belt in half sizes along with belt adjusting but once used you'll need to readjust. Look into non stretch belts also. Also lower speed works
Thank you!
Clay soil is a nightmare, I fortunately do not have it here in central NYS. You figured out as you went along, not to force the handlebars down and to do a little at a time as slow as possible. Sod can be tough to deal with also- I have an old tiller from the seventies that I still use some. It was a shame Troy Bilt sold out, I guess they got in money problems. They used to put out the Troy Bilt Owners News that had lots of good gardening advice in it. My brother and I drove up to Troy to pick up my tiller at the plant there. They are a great machine. Maybe you can find an owner's manual somewhere, it is an excellent guide to maintenance and repairs, and some gardening tips also.
Yep, they're a great machine. I do have the owners manual. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm watching this video trying to learn because I done the same thing and tried to go too deep and it took off on me and more you hang onto them handlebars the more weight pushing down more bucking lol I just had to let go of it might help if I I adjust the handlebar something
Yep! In my case, I had to learn it just can't till as deep as I' want it to on just one pass. It takes 6 - 8 passes before I move onto the next section. Thanks for watching!
Counter rotating tines are best for clay soil .I think Troybilt has models that has both . If you aren't against glyphosate spray your spot at least a week before if not more . Adjust the belts first .You should get that turned the first time then . Amend the soil still . I live in Tennessee and not only do we have clay we have fist sized rocks on average. You have plenty of good help though !
I've wondered about rotation direction of the tines. One great thing about our garden spot is there are almost no sizable rocks. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Take smaller bites. I usually take 3 or 4 passes and lower the tines as I go.. it’s easier on the machine and your body. These are the best tillers ever made.
Yes, that makes sense. The video's a year old, so I've used it for two Spring seasons now. But it's HARD clay. I think a lot of people don't fully understand what that means. When I'm first trying to break new ground in this hard clay soil, it takes 8 - 10 passes to get down 3"... and a lot more to get to full depth. After the soil's blended with 50% compost, it goes a LOT easier. I also learned this year, that sharpening the tines makes a big difference. I posted a video about that! Thanks for watching!
Best advice, go down in levels and it’s sweet, go all at once and you better hold on.
Things I've read suggest that counter-rotating tines are best for hard soil. The machine won't run for the hills if the wheels and tines are rotating in opposite directions. Helpful video, though ... lots of ways to "live and learn"!
That seems logical, and I wish my tines were reversible. Thanks for watching!
I dont know why they didnt make the tines counter clock wise instead of clock wise. My craftsman was counter and went right through any sod with no problem.
Sometimes I think it would be great if they were reversible. But I'm sure there's no tiller that can work this clay sod without a fight. This is amazingly dense hard sod. I couldn't have worked it at all without a tough machine. Thanks for watching!
You can get a belt at your local automotive store. first thing i would of done.
No it isn't. The first thing you would have done is try operating the machine to discover what the problems may be. Just like I did. Unless you like replacing parts for no good reason. Do you like replacing parts for no good reason?
You also have two belt slots two the same size the the other which runs slower. Go slow, mines the same just n8 electric start
Yep. Thanks for watching!
The belt drive block needed adjusting badly in order to increase the belt tension. When properly adjusted, the tines can indeed wrestle the engine down rather than the belt slipping. I have one of these machines, pretty much the same machine from the late 1980s, early 90s that your machine is and the belt adjustment block needs regular adjusting as the belt wears. The owner's manual and/or UA-cam will have instructions on how to do the adjustment. Troy Bilt includes a special tool to aide in setting the proper position for the cam block. I'd imagine MTD still sells them and/or they're available all over the Internet.
Thanks Steve. This was recorded almost a year ago. When I got the machine it needed some work, including belt replacement. The belt was so worn out it couldn't be tightened enough. I've since replaced it, and as you said, after using it a bit I needed to readjust. Thanks for watching!
You have a good machine. Any Troy Bilt made before September 21 2001 was made in Troy New York under the ownership of Gardenway. MTD bought them out, and they were never the same. When that old Briggs quits, you can do a repower with a Honda, and it will last for another generation.
Thank you for that interesting information. It would take a lot for me to replace the original engine. The Briggs would have to be catastrophically destroyed and not rebuildable before I'd consider it. Thank you for your comments and watching the video.
Please check out my most recent video. I'm celebrating 2000 subs and there's a prize drawing!
*Correction: "Out of the frying pan and into the fire!"
Interested on it, how can I get,
Any idea please
They frequently come up on the used market. Try Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. One commenter told me he got one from an auction.
From what I can see, the tines are worn out. I tried tilling soil with practically the same machine and it would not dig the soil at all. It just produced a shiny hard pan in the soil. The following year, I had the money and motivation to change the tines. It was like a brand new machine. It did all of the work by itself practically.
At first, I was using the old tines that came with it. I then replaced the tines with a new old stock set that came from Troy Bilt. That was shown in my videos. With the new tines, it became even more difficult to till this extremely dense soil. They weren't short like the old tines and wanted to take a deeper cut into the HARD clay. That just drove the machine into the air! This past Spring, I sharpened the new tines similar to how you'd sharpen a lawnmower blade. That made a real improvement. The clay here must be a lot worse than anyone has ever seen. It's dense and tough, and dries so hard you can't shovel it without using a pickax first. Thank you for watching and commenting!
When you "Have the tines set too deep and the belt isnt slipping." And she wants to run away.... Dont try and restrain it. It'll settle itself down and dig. Yes she will buck occasionally but this is normal when breaking new ground. I never attempt this one handed. I keep my hands lightly on the bars and mainly worry about keeping it going straight. By restraining it you only serve to keep the weight back on the tines and give them traction over the wheels. I was going up a little slope once with my tines buried in fresh ground and i made the mistake of trying to hold her back.... Matilda didnt blink. She grunted, squatted on her tines and with wheels FULLY OFF THE GROUND dragged me up the hill. Only by letting up on the handles did allow the weight to fall back on her much more sensibly paced wheels. I also picked up an 8foot length of chain on that slope and only knew about it afterwards when i heard something flailing under the tine hood. Removed the chain and made it into tire chains. I had the thought, 'Matilda is just like those soldiers you hear about keeping enemy ears on a necklace, she wears her opponents like trophy medals. BTW, Matilda is a 1973 Troy Bilt Horse 1 with the 6HP Tecumseh HH60. Solid cast iron. No bumper bars. Top hat fuel tank. Original Goodyear studded tread tires (tubes in them now, they were flat and off the rims when I found her, dryrotted too. Still good enough to get the job done) The first generation Horse model has TWO drive belts on a double sheave pulley. I just replaced them and when she hooks up, look out! Two forward speeds, till and walk to the garden speed. The reverse is the same as the later models except instead of a rubber wheel riding on a flat its got a fiber wheel made out of what looks like brake pad material which rides down inside the reverse sheave like a v belt. The disc develops the v profile around the perimeter as it wears. Likely an asbestos impregnated hockey puck for playing in Hell. I found her abandoned and sad in a collapsing old garden shed and brought her home. Got her running the second day! Had to clean up the carb and ignition. Just recently retired the original HH60 Tecumseh. And replaced with a modern Briggs and Stratton. It has less rated HP but it feels like double! The new engine with gas and oil doesn't weigh as much as the HH60 does eith everything removed but the carburetor and flywheel! Ive only been able to find one other HH60 thats set up for a Troy Bilt, that was running and original. Price? $1000! That prompted me to retire the original while it still ran so well and was all original down to the carburetor. The Briggs got a shot of matching red and Matilda is happy. I love and miss her old look however. I do use her now without fear and can restore her later or sell her to a collector to be restored. As long as i plan to grow things ill never buy or need another tiller so selling her to be retired is the only way I'd sell her. Anyway, happy Tilling from Rex and Matilda. Kitsap County Washington State.
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Thank you for watching! It isn't so simple with this soil I have to deal with. The tines will not penetrate this dense/hard clay any more than 1" at a time, no matter what you do. Even after I sharpened them like a knife. I takes 6 - 8 passes to get any depth at all. I just have to work it to hard break new ground. People have suggested wetting the soil a little. Moisture is tricky. The tines turn into a big ball of sticky mud that can't dig into anything if it's just a little wet. After the first clod busting, with a lot of compost blended in, it gets much better. It's been two growing seasons since the video, and while I'm interested in expanding the garden, I'm not looking forward to it! Thank you for watching and commenting.
You REALLY got you some clay on your hands. Might oughta consider building the wife a pot throwing wheel! Great videos. Awesome machines. Makes you proud to be American. Feeding our families from the land. I know amending my soul here really made a HUGE difference.
My soil* ^
Engaging reverse while the tines are spinning is obviously a good way to chop up your feet.!!! Better to use reverse when the tines are not turning.!!!!!
That's a goofy statement. I can tell you've never operated one of these machines. Thanks for watching though.
I like the handle bar(S) on the Troy which is waaaay better than the earthquake handle which is crossbar like a lawnmower...bad design!....you got NO leverage with that style of handle...BTW, you mentioned "no where to go but up", I get that, I pushed on that crossbar with belly and took a hard shot when that thing bucked backward.
Yeah, those tines driven by an 8 HP Briggs, against hard ground, can buck it backwards really hard. Thanks for watching!
Today I made a purchase of a Troy-Bilt Horse with the fuel tank mounted on top. It belonged to a ma that passed away, his son sold it to me for $20 he had no idea if it works or not, but I'm willing to take the risk.
Well... YEAH! You can't go wrong!
Any progress humbledsparrow?
@@landontesar3070 I had it running and tilling well. After a few months, it lost its spark. Planning to take it in to our small engine repair shop for a fix.
@@humbledsparrows4687 I've got one waiting for me, great compression, no spark. Bought points and a carb for it.
Please see if you can raise the handle bar don't get hurt let the tiller do the work, a lot more fun
I did that in the Fall. Thanks!
Break that ground with a tractor and plow first .
Yep. I'm looking for a plow to use. Thanks.