For anyone interested, we came up with the shim/collar kit ourselves because of how bad they make these machines (link: bit.ly/3UafcwJ) - my understanding is WP ended up revising the machines very recently, including this with new units. The lack of the collar has probably cost untolds amount of money because somehow they thought a plastic-bottomed tub was a good idea...
Thanks for the info, Ben. A lot of the newer Whirlpool/Maytag washers have a service bulletin out for them on WP's service site that is about the inner spin basket not having the wholes drilled properly so when it goes into a spin, water can't leave through the sides. I had a few where the holes were improperly punched into the sides to the point where I couldn't even get a needle through about 75% of them, so that's something to watch out for too. It can be decieving because if you put a light between the tub and cabinet you can see light through the holes so it looks like they're there, but in reality the metal where they tried to punch the holes through is so thin that the light can get through when there is no hole, so you have to physically check them with a needle or other skinny object.
They don't care anymore its all about shaving as much as they can get away with to meet a certain price point in manufacturing brand loyalty is a thing of the past I remember when the direct drive came out in 85 we thought it was cheapness we saw the belt drive as a machine that lasts a half century then the calypso and cabrio all junk . I'm glad I'm retired now I was an appliance tech from 1975 until last year
Ben, recently my nearly 30 year old Kenmore series 90 gave up the ghost permanently. I nearly pulled the trigger on one of these Maytag washers when they were put on sale . I remembered your hack with the suspension rods and when I read all of the reviews on the Maytag it was clear that there were many unhappy customers. I started searching all of the used appliance stores in a 50 mile radius. I walked into the fifth store with all of it’s double stacked LG and Samsung washers and dryers and was about to leave I when saw a white washer sitting back in a corner. To my surprise it was a 2004 series 80 Kenmore in almost new condition. It was like I had found a lost treasure !! Weird huh? My wife thinks I might have a screw loose but I think it’s your fault for turning me into a vintage Kenmore washer geek with your comparison video. Thanks Ben, our new 20 year old Kenmore purrs like a kitten and washes great too.
Our first two washers were Kenmore, the first one lasted 25 years the second just over 20 years. Now with a new Whirlpool we have had nothing but problems with it. Had serviceman out 5 times he finally said I should get ahold of Whirlpool and complain to them, he admitted they are poorly designed. Not enough water, shreds our bath towels, shakes like crazy where it will dance across the floor. If I could find an old Kenmore I would buy it in a heart beat.
I was about to give up on my Whirlpool washer. It was shaking across the floor! I checked the suspension rods and they were fine. When I found Bens video and checked the tub hub I knew his repair kit was the fix I needed! Thank you for your Great ideas!
I just finished this entire service solution for my washer & it seems to have taken all the play out between the basket & wash ring. I replaced the suspension rods along with the new metal hub & added the shim included in your kit. Can’t run the calibration mode or wash clothes yet until the locktite on the wash plate/agitator dries, but I can already see a huge improvement with this hack taking out all the slack between the parts. Thanks for saving me from having to buy a new (also junk) washer when we can’t afford it.
My 9 year old Maytag Bravos was thrashing terribly. I changed the suspension rods a couple years ago and it helped a little, but I recently learned that they were .3" longer than the originals, even though they were supposed to work. The washer started walking across the floor again and thrashing terribly. I repacked the original rods with Very Tacky Grease and it helped a little. Then I installed Ben's 1mm shim. It was a tight fit but I don't think the .75mm would have done the trick. The .5mm was too thin. The installation was straightforward and easy enough. I reused my plastic hub which was still in new condition. All the slop between the basket and shaft is gone. The washer has minor shakinging at a couple times in the spin cycle, but it's mostly quiet and no longer walks across the floor. It doesn't move at all. I call it a success. Thanks Ben.
I made a mistake purchasing non Maytag parts for suspension rods from Amazon. The generics length did not match. Sent em back and purchased real Maytag rods. Model is a Centennial top load and runs just great.
So helpful! Have brand new Maytag smart W/D. Never know when this info will be needed vs stressing out. Our floors are uneven, so I put the W/D on an adjustable stand that has fixed feet and wheels that lock. Some wheels needed shims, but the stands hold both machines perfectly in place even when the washer went off balance once or twice. Washer weighs about 150lbs and Dryer 100lbs. Stands also help to move appliance easy for cleaning and air flow when not in use. Old Duet washer weighed over 250lbs. ugh!
Excelente video Ben, saludos desde el norte de México, aca se rehabilitan muchas lavadoras de transmisión directa para venta ya que la mayoría de la gente se queja de los nuevos modelos de Whirpool y Maytag mi hija tiene una Maytag Bravos XL y justo esta semana le voy a revisar los amortiguadores y el cubo de fijación, seguro le tendre que poner el de metal para qué tenga mejor funcionamiento.
Good evening, I just got the parts and I installed them already. Now I just need to recalibrate the machine and hopefully it will be good. I was watching your video on recalibrating the machine and I’m just a little confused about turning clockwise 4 times. When and where to start and finish turning it or maybe if you have another video or explain it just a little more detail please. By the way the part fit perfectly.
I just did this. When setting the metal hub on the plastic tub, there's a gap in between. I tightened the screws. Then lifted on the tub while using a plastic mallet and tapping the shaft down. You can also put the hub nut on loosely and tap on that too. Then tighten the screws some more. Then tap again and repeat. Took me several tries to finally get the metal hub to sit all the way down.
Great timing for this video as my parents are having this issue. They have a Bravos washer, and it was making noises. They bought new rods off of Amazon which, I believe, were not OEM parts. The noise went away for about a month and then it came back. My assumption is that this is due to the items not being OEM parts, but what do y'all think? Are the non OEM suspension rods known for this kind of issue? Or could it be that my step-dad installed the rods wrong somehow? Or could it be something else? I'd imagine since the noise went away for at least a month, that would imply it is the rods.
So here's the honest answer, non OEM rods have terrible dampening properties. I'm making a packing grease to cure that but it won't be out for a few months
Purchased the hub kit a few week back clean install with no problem and it corrected the issue, however now the issue is back. After examining the unit the lock tight bolt was now loose and the hub was jiggling. When trying to tighten the hub with the wrench the center rod is now rotating with every turn. Have you seen this happen before? This did not happen with the original repair. Looking for some insight here, thank you in advance!
@ben can I get a response here? 11:00 into your video you say that it should spin one way with a lot of resistance and then the other way. With this hub that isn’t happening.
Thank you so much for providing the videos. I believe I need a new metal hub assembly for my washer and just want to be sure to order the correct one. Maytag Model MVWC565FW2. Could you please advise which hub I need to purchase?
I have the same model washer that you are working on in the video. My unit is violently shaking in spun cycle and the clothes are soaked at the finish. My was plate does not spin at all. If I try to spin the wash plate it just spins the whole tub. Any ideas?
I have a Maytag Bravos Washer and I can easily move the tub from one side to the other. So it gets unbalanced pretty easily. Are there shocks in that machine? Can't move the bottom at all like you show in the video. Or the repair you show would also fix this problem? The gauges are totally different too.
The new suspension rods I ordered are longer than the old ones. Is that a problem? And the old rods also have a extra black plastic part on it that the new ones don’t
I have a Bravo model of Maytag and it would spin out of balance. I just changed the suspension rods and that solved the problem for about 5 washes. Now it's out of balance again. I did the re-calibration and the Spin light stayed on and is blinking. Any advice?
Ben, I’ve got this same machine. I’ve replaced the struts and the hub with the metal hub kit. The tub still rocks enough to hit the sides of the machine when it first starts to spin. But then it levels out and runs good. Any ideas??
Does the threadlocker need to also be applied to the spanner nut? I think an older video showed you doing that but maybe it isn't necessary anymore? Thanks!
The thread locker may not work on that type of metal. There's a catalyst for that situation if needed. As a rule, thread locker works on metals that tarnish. It's a chemical reaction.
I purchased your kit and did all of it. Only thing I didn’t do was the calibration on it so I washed the first set of clothes and then it did a little bouncing but it corrected itself and finish washing so I redid another laundry and the machine wants to spend to rinse and it bounces around so I tried to do the code and it’s not accepting it once you push the start button it won’t do anythingnot sure what’s going on with that doing all these repairs with the washer still bounce around
This has caused our Maytag Bravos to fail. F9 E1 due to a broken wire. Do you have any videos addressing fixing a broken wire or replacing the wiring harness?
Hello there thanks for this useful video.. I have a Maytag washer exactly like this one and it's banging around. I checked the dampers and they seem fine. The inner tub has about 1/2 inch of play with the outer tub .. is that too much? I also tested the wash plate and I can't make it turn independently from the inner tub at all no matter how hard I spin and brake it.. The wash plate is stuck on the hub and is currently soaking in order to loosen it but what do you think? Is it a worn hub? Thank you!!
Any play between inner/outer tub is an issue honestly. Probably a hub starting to wear + wallering inner tub against the gearcase shaft. The shim kit mentioned is saving a lot of these.
I replaced my suspension rods and wash plate hub. The tub still wobbles. When i push the start button to recalibrate it shuts off every time. It will not calibrate.
At 9:43 you say is the displayed LEDs for forced agitation. I believe that is wrong, and actually low spin. Agitation is should be the LEDs lit up at 9:48.
so my washer shakes violently but when i tested the rods and the hub as you described, my washer acted just like the one you were showing. so what would my issue be? bought this maytag washer new in 2019
@@bensappliancesandjunkI think I’ll try the metal hub. The hub I replaced the old one with is the oem plastic hub. It has a small amount of wiggle between the basket and the tub.
How I am going to solve the problem is I am going to look for an old Maytag washer made in Newton Iowa before 2006, and will be replacing this machine with that. I hate these machines. They don't get your clothes clean either. They also use a lot more water than my old Maytag did. These machines are nothing more than a rebranded Whirlpool.
I just purchase this, because this is the problem on my maytag washing machine. I hope it will work and fit the part. The model number I have is MVWX655DW1. I hope it will work on my model that I have. I order the metal one.
My machine is still off balance, if it had legs it would walk away on its own. I took a video of it while spinning, I wish I could show it to you. What is the problem with my washing machine ?
@@bensappliancesandjunk Do you think maybe something could have got under that plate? Like a screws or something and if that is the case, this is what would case it to go to UL and shake?
Software resets all information to default based on tub spin logic from my understanding. It relearns tolerances for throwing the unit OOB, and adjusts to that for full-weight loads. It works way more often to solve an OOB issue than you think. I've had hundreds of commenters over time say thats what fixed their washer.
Question: If this happens in washers from the past five years...which also have a 10 year warranty...why fret? Just let a professional do it for free. Lemme guess: Warranty doesn't cover things that actually break, huh?
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thanks for that. Per your video, how do I know how much "play" the tub should have, and how do I know if the corner posts are indeed the problem? I'd hate to waste time and money replacing something that won't fix the problem.
@@ScottJSmith inner/outer basket should have almost zero play in it between each other. You could always take the tub cover off and inspect, but the next video I am shooting has a before/after and there really shouldn't be any play in it, or maybe 1-2mm tops.
If i knew that Maytag was owned by Whirlpool, i wouldn't have purchased this machine. They use cheap part so that you have to buy another machine. I believe this tub is bad.
For anyone interested, we came up with the shim/collar kit ourselves because of how bad they make these machines (link: bit.ly/3UafcwJ) - my understanding is WP ended up revising the machines very recently, including this with new units. The lack of the collar has probably cost untolds amount of money because somehow they thought a plastic-bottomed tub was a good idea...
Thanks for the info, Ben. A lot of the newer Whirlpool/Maytag washers have a service bulletin out for them on WP's service site that is about the inner spin basket not having the wholes drilled properly so when it goes into a spin, water can't leave through the sides. I had a few where the holes were improperly punched into the sides to the point where I couldn't even get a needle through about 75% of them, so that's something to watch out for too. It can be decieving because if you put a light between the tub and cabinet you can see light through the holes so it looks like they're there, but in reality the metal where they tried to punch the holes through is so thin that the light can get through when there is no hole, so you have to physically check them with a needle or other skinny object.
They don't care anymore its all about shaving as much as they can get away with to meet a certain price point in manufacturing brand loyalty is a thing of the past I remember when the direct drive came out in 85 we thought it was cheapness we saw the belt drive as a machine that lasts a half century then the calypso and cabrio all junk . I'm glad I'm retired now I was an appliance tech from 1975 until last year
I need the shims you sell. Let me know when you have some in stock. There is play on my tube.
@@adrpals2324 we've almost run out of them, but I'm adding a few more to the system ready to ship now
@@bensappliancesandjunkI’ve already installed a hub kit. Is it possible to remove it and install the shims?
Ben, recently my nearly 30 year old Kenmore series 90 gave up the ghost permanently. I nearly pulled the trigger on one of these Maytag washers when they were put on sale . I remembered your hack with the suspension rods and when I read all of the reviews on the Maytag it was clear that there were many unhappy customers. I started searching all of the used appliance stores in a 50 mile radius. I walked into the fifth store with all of it’s double stacked LG and Samsung washers and dryers and was about to leave I when saw a white washer sitting back in a corner. To my surprise it was a 2004 series 80 Kenmore in almost new condition. It was like I had found a lost treasure !! Weird huh? My wife thinks I might have a screw loose but I think it’s your fault for turning me into a vintage Kenmore washer geek with your comparison video. Thanks Ben, our new 20 year old Kenmore purrs like a kitten and washes great too.
Our first two washers were Kenmore, the first one lasted 25 years the second just over 20 years. Now with a new Whirlpool we have had nothing but problems with it. Had serviceman out 5 times he finally said I should get ahold of Whirlpool and complain to them, he admitted they are poorly designed. Not enough water, shreds our bath towels, shakes like crazy where it will dance across the floor. If I could find an old Kenmore I would buy it in a heart beat.
I was about to give up on my Whirlpool washer. It was shaking across the floor! I checked the suspension rods and they were fine. When I found Bens video and checked the tub hub I knew his repair kit was the fix I needed! Thank you for your Great ideas!
I just finished this entire service solution for my washer & it seems to have taken all the play out between the basket & wash ring. I replaced the suspension rods along with the new metal hub & added the shim included in your kit. Can’t run the calibration mode or wash clothes yet until the locktite on the wash plate/agitator dries, but I can already see a huge improvement with this hack taking out all the slack between the parts. Thanks for saving me from having to buy a new (also junk) washer when we can’t afford it.
This guy is amazing. I have now fixed a oven and a washer with his videos. I figure he has saved me over 600 dollars. He rocks!!!
My 9 year old Maytag Bravos was thrashing terribly. I changed the suspension rods a couple years ago and it helped a little, but I recently learned that they were .3" longer than the originals, even though they were supposed to work. The washer started walking across the floor again and thrashing terribly. I repacked the original rods with Very Tacky Grease and it helped a little. Then I installed Ben's 1mm shim. It was a tight fit but I don't think the .75mm would have done the trick. The .5mm was too thin. The installation was straightforward and easy enough. I reused my plastic hub which was still in new condition. All the slop between the basket and shaft is gone. The washer has minor shakinging at a couple times in the spin cycle, but it's mostly quiet and no longer walks across the floor. It doesn't move at all. I call it a success. Thanks Ben.
I made a mistake purchasing non Maytag parts for suspension rods from Amazon. The generics length did not match. Sent em back and purchased real Maytag rods. Model is a Centennial top load and runs just great.
@@southsidetom Yes OEM suspension rods is the correct way to go.
The 1 mm collar fixed our machine very nicely only took 5 minutes to install. I did have the wash plate out about a month ago so it came right out!
So helpful! Have brand new Maytag smart W/D. Never know when this info will be needed vs stressing out. Our floors are uneven, so I put the W/D on an adjustable stand that has fixed feet and wheels that lock. Some wheels needed shims, but the stands hold both machines perfectly in place even when the washer went off balance once or twice. Washer weighs about 150lbs and Dryer 100lbs. Stands also help to move appliance easy for cleaning and air flow when not in use. Old Duet washer weighed over 250lbs. ugh!
Hey Lynn do you have a link to the stand you bought?
Excelente video Ben, saludos desde el norte de México, aca se rehabilitan muchas lavadoras de transmisión directa para venta ya que la mayoría de la gente se queja de los nuevos modelos de Whirpool y Maytag mi hija tiene una Maytag Bravos XL y justo esta semana le voy a revisar los amortiguadores y el cubo de fijación, seguro le tendre que poner el de metal para qué tenga mejor funcionamiento.
Good evening, I just got the parts and I installed them already. Now I just need to recalibrate the machine and hopefully it will be good. I was watching your video on recalibrating the machine and I’m just a little confused about turning clockwise 4 times. When and where to start and finish turning it or maybe if you have another video or explain it just a little more detail please.
By the way the part fit perfectly.
Easy to follow Thanks. I did the hub replacement
I just did this. When setting the metal hub on the plastic tub, there's a gap in between. I tightened the screws. Then lifted on the tub while using a plastic mallet and tapping the shaft down. You can also put the hub nut on loosely and tap on that too. Then tighten the screws some more. Then tap again and repeat. Took me several tries to finally get the metal hub to sit all the way down.
Just bought a new model MVW5035MW2. If it takes a crap then no more Maytag for me. I vote with my pocket book.
Great timing for this video as my parents are having this issue. They have a Bravos washer, and it was making noises. They bought new rods off of Amazon which, I believe, were not OEM parts. The noise went away for about a month and then it came back. My assumption is that this is due to the items not being OEM parts, but what do y'all think? Are the non OEM suspension rods known for this kind of issue? Or could it be that my step-dad installed the rods wrong somehow? Or could it be something else? I'd imagine since the noise went away for at least a month, that would imply it is the rods.
So here's the honest answer, non OEM rods have terrible dampening properties. I'm making a packing grease to cure that but it won't be out for a few months
@@bensappliancesandjunk I figured as much. Thanks for the reply.
Did someone recalibrate it after the suspension rod install?
@bensappliancesandjunk is the packing grease out yet? Are you packing the worn-out plastic/rubber rod bushing?
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Thank you!
Purchased the hub kit a few week back clean install with no problem and it corrected the issue, however now the issue is back. After examining the unit the lock tight bolt was now loose and the hub was jiggling. When trying to tighten the hub with the wrench the center rod is now rotating with every turn. Have you seen this happen before? This did not happen with the original repair. Looking for some insight here, thank you in advance!
By center rod I mean motor shaft
It looks like the small tab or “tang” is no longer on my hub. Is this common to break off?
@ben can I get a response here? 11:00 into your video you say that it should spin one way with a lot of resistance and then the other way. With this hub that isn’t happening.
7 mins
ur tha man ben!
What do you think about the Kenmore front-loading washing machine made by LG
that rod trick os ok but it does not help on the first one, that is why I carry a trampoline spring puller to pull on the load springs
do you have a video for machines with the old school agitator ?
Will the shims work with the plastic hubs too?
If I only have one bad suspension out of the four do I really need to change it ? Will the washer die ?
Thank you so much for providing the videos. I believe I need a new metal hub assembly for my washer and just want to be sure to order the correct one. Maytag Model MVWC565FW2. Could you please advise which hub I need to purchase?
Its the one here in the video - the W1032, its the same as the one in the video
Hi Ben
Question for you
Are a wash plate for a wtw5000dw1 and a wtw5000dw3 interchangeable
Thank you for your time
Joe
I have the same model washer that you are working on in the video. My unit is violently shaking in spun cycle and the clothes are soaked at the finish. My was plate does not spin at all. If I try to spin the wash plate it just spins the whole tub. Any ideas?
Mine does the same. If you figure it out please post. Thanks. I'll do the same.
Excellent !
I have a Maytag Bravos Washer and I can easily move the tub from one side to the other. So it gets unbalanced pretty easily. Are there shocks in that machine? Can't move the bottom at all like you show in the video. Or the repair you show would also fix this problem? The gauges are totally different too.
Just bought this machine and day one this thing is banging and shaking om spin. It says its level. Guess I'm gonna get a new one.
The new suspension rods I ordered are longer than the old ones. Is that a problem? And the old rods also have a extra black plastic part on it that the new ones don’t
I have a Bravo model of Maytag and it would spin out of balance. I just changed the suspension rods and that solved the problem for about 5 washes. Now it's out of balance again. I did the re-calibration and the Spin light stayed on and is blinking. Any advice?
Ben, I’ve got this same machine. I’ve replaced the struts and the hub with the metal hub kit. The tub still rocks enough to hit the sides of the machine when it first starts to spin. But then it levels out and runs good. Any ideas??
Ty
thanks
So I removed the screws , how do I get the hub off? It doesn't slide over the spline? Do I beak it off?
Does the threadlocker need to also be applied to the spanner nut? I think an older video showed you doing that but maybe it isn't necessary anymore? Thanks!
The thread locker may not work on that type of metal. There's a catalyst for that situation if needed. As a rule, thread locker works on metals that tarnish. It's a chemical reaction.
My bravos makes a sort of clicking noise when agitating or low gear spin/stop. Think the hub mount piece will fix that?
I purchased your kit and did all of it. Only thing I didn’t do was the calibration on it so I washed the first set of clothes and then it did a little bouncing but it corrected itself and finish washing so I redid another laundry and the machine wants to spend to rinse and it bounces around so I tried to do the code and it’s not accepting it once you push the start button it won’t do anythingnot sure what’s going on with that doing all these repairs with the washer still bounce around
Thank you
There JUNK. WE HAVE A NEW ONE AND OUR SHEETS AND CLOTHES WAD ALL UP THEN GOES OUT OF BALANCE. I WANT MY OLD MACHINE BACK!!!
This has caused our Maytag Bravos to fail. F9 E1 due to a broken wire. Do you have any videos addressing fixing a broken wire or replacing the wiring harness?
Not yet but it's on the to do list
@@bensappliancesandjunk I'll keep an eye out
Hello there thanks for this useful video.. I have a Maytag washer exactly like this one and it's banging around. I checked the dampers and they seem fine.
The inner tub has about 1/2 inch of play with the outer tub .. is that too much?
I also tested the wash plate and I can't make it turn independently from the inner tub at all no matter how hard I spin and brake it..
The wash plate is stuck on the hub and is currently soaking in order to loosen it but what do you think? Is it a worn hub?
Thank you!!
Any play between inner/outer tub is an issue honestly. Probably a hub starting to wear + wallering inner tub against the gearcase shaft. The shim kit mentioned is saving a lot of these.
So we're do we get the metal hub from
I replaced my suspension rods and wash plate hub. The tub still wobbles. When i push the start button to recalibrate it shuts off every time. It will not calibrate.
Mine still shakes on that last rinse after replacing plastic hub with metal one, furthermore I replaced the rods too.
At 9:43 you say is the displayed LEDs for forced agitation. I believe that is wrong, and actually low spin. Agitation is should be the LEDs lit up at 9:48.
Ben, i have this machine. It does not move on wash or rinse mode. What does this mean?
We changed the suspension rods but the washer is still shaking alot, does that mean we should change the hub?
hub & tub bushing. I have a video on the Whirlpool version of this that shows how to do the bushing which tends to solve a lot of issues.
Will the shim kit be restocked?
Yes, waiting any moment on delivery
does the botton plate have to move at all?
This worked for a day on my machine. Did I install this incorrectly or is there another culprit?
so my washer shakes violently but when i tested the rods and the hub as you described, my washer acted just like the one you were showing. so what would my issue be? bought this maytag washer new in 2019
@4:30 looking for that video... Cant find it at the end of this one...
What if you’ve replace the hub and suspension rods and it still shakes violently? I’ve also recalibrated.
Potentially shims in the tub. The other question is who did you buy rods from. Amazon suppliers are notorious for garbage rods.
@@bensappliancesandjunkI think I’ll try the metal hub. The hub I replaced the old one with is the oem plastic hub. It has a small amount of wiggle between the basket and the tub.
I need the dang shim kit
Supposed to be delivered to us tomorrow!
I have the same washer. I changed all four and it still shakes when it spins
Did you recalibrate it afterwards?
How I am going to solve the problem is I am going to look for an old Maytag washer made in Newton Iowa before 2006, and will be replacing this machine with that. I hate these machines. They don't get your clothes clean either. They also use a lot more water than my old Maytag did. These machines are nothing more than a rebranded Whirlpool.
looks like there is a couple quarters between the basket and tub
LG heatpump video coming soon?
I hope so! Just waiting on editor
@@bensappliancesandjunkI couldn't wait!! Mine shows up tomorrow!!
I just purchase this, because this is the problem on my maytag washing machine. I hope it will work and fit the part. The model number I have is MVWX655DW1. I hope it will work on my model that I have. I order the metal one.
It will, yes
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you
My machine is still off balance, if it had legs it would walk away on its own. I took a video of it while spinning, I wish I could show it to you. What is the problem with my washing machine ?
@@simonmichellerochon0 did you re-calibrate after installing the parts?
I have a washer that continues to fill and drain. What could be wrong?
Shifter actuator
👍👍👍👍
What if the wash plate doesn't move at all? Tried to turn it and it doesn't budge.
I'd look under the washer for obstructions to the gearcase system that may do that
@@bensappliancesandjunk Do you think maybe something could have got under that plate? Like a screws or something and if that is the case, this is what would case it to go to UL and shake?
How could the calibration do anything? These washers just have a motor. There isn't any balance actuator or anything
Software resets all information to default based on tub spin logic from my understanding. It relearns tolerances for throwing the unit OOB, and adjusts to that for full-weight loads. It works way more often to solve an OOB issue than you think. I've had hundreds of commenters over time say thats what fixed their washer.
Or just avoid everything Maytag
Will the shims hold the tub solid if the splines have been worn smooth?
Step one : Scrap it. Step two: buy a used Whirlpool built direct drive.
Easy fix to me was to get rid of that piece or junk
Easy fix to me was to get rid of that piece of junk 😅
Buy a used agitator washer instead.
Mine is 6 months old. Crap
Question: If this happens in washers from the past five years...which also have a 10 year warranty...why fret? Just let a professional do it for free.
Lemme guess: Warranty doesn't cover things that actually break, huh?
That and they're often so far on back order that the customer may spend 6 months waiting on the tub.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thanks for that. Per your video, how do I know how much "play" the tub should have, and how do I know if the corner posts are indeed the problem? I'd hate to waste time and money replacing something that won't fix the problem.
@@ScottJSmith inner/outer basket should have almost zero play in it between each other. You could always take the tub cover off and inspect, but the next video I am shooting has a before/after and there really shouldn't be any play in it, or maybe 1-2mm tops.
Cool.
If i knew that Maytag was owned by Whirlpool, i wouldn't have purchased this machine. They use cheap part so that you have to buy another machine. I believe this tub is bad.