This repair was made on 2021/12/05. As of 2022/05/08 (154 days), the washer still runs all spin cycles flawlessly. I have applied no new grease, yet. I have made a couple of additional repairs to fix cosmetic problems (mostly parts that are excessively rusty here in Hawaii), but it still runs through a full cycle without incident every time. I do expect to check the state of the rods at 12 months, but I don't expect to find problems, yet. If so, I will again chalk it up to the marine environment which causes things to break down very quickly, here.
Aloha Zack! Glad I came across your video. I'm facing the same problem wth my Maytag Washer. It seems I've had problems from the very beginning since I bought the machine especially with the sensor thingy. I've had two replaced and the second one has a mind of its own. I more or less have to baby sit it or the washer will begin a new cycle. Now the banging begins! Btw, I live on the Big Island too in Puna in a subdivision called HPP. It seems everthing just rust, rot or mold! It's certainly a challenge living in Hawaii!!
For those who are thinking about it, I tried applying new Nyogel to the original OEM rods and it was *not* sufficient. They worked at first but were failing again within a week. The mechanism must be very sensitive to the tight fit of the damping plugs. I also tried non-OEM replacement rods and they failed in a month. So either (1) try molding your own damper plugs as Zack did or (2) buy new OEM rods--they solved the problem.
I followed your suggestion exactly, and it worked perfectly. Just make sure to use Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease, as no other grease worked for me. My rods are about 2 years old, so I also replaced the internal cylinder with Epoxy Putty. I am a happy camper. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Hi Zack. The wife’s washer was walking across the floor every spin cycle. I thought about replacing the suspension rods but wanted to know why they wear out. I watched several videos only to be frustrated with the fixes. Then I watched your video and realized you had figured it out. I bought some damping grease and fixed the machine tonight. It works like new once again! Thanks for the great advice! Cheers!
I also was completely frustrated with nobody explaining why they fail. Not one person even measured the sping height to prove they were compressed without any load, nobody ever mentioned just buying new springs and rebuilding the rods. Now we have the answer.
I unfortunately bought new washer rods before watching this video. But I did order some Nyogel 767A before putting them into the washer and greased the new rods with the dampening grease. I think this is a great idea.
I have the non-glass top version of this washer and it lasted us almost 10 years before this issue popped-up. I just changed the rods for $42 (bought them from Amazon). Hopefully, I'll get another few years at least, but overall, it has been a good washer given the amount of work it gets. This was a great video and something I'll keep in mind for the next time.
I totally admire your insight into this problem. Thanks to Amazon - I was able to purchase a set of suspension rods and they were delivered a few days later. Wish me luck. I am absolutely going to try your approach if this problem rears its ugly head. Last year I noticed rust on the exterior of the washer housing down around the base of the unit. Six years. You'd think they could make enamel last a little longer.
Thank you for the video. I ended up cleaning off the rod assembly but had nothing to use but some 3M Super && Multipurpose Adhesive. I sprayed it all inside the pieces and over the rod and reinstalled it. It now runs like new pretty much. Thanks again.
Hi, Zack, from Upstate South Carolina. We owe you and Washer Dryer Money a great deal of gratitude! Thank you, thank you, thank you! Hubby and I were ready to give up the 10-year-old washing machine ... until we happened upon your suspension rod fix. After watching WDM, then yours, we immediately ordered the Nyogel from Amazon and purchased Steel Stik from HD -- $32 investment saved hundreds! I'm into the 2nd load today after reinstalling the rods -- spin cycle hums like it used to 10 years ago. We'll still save our pennies should this fix not last, but we are confident it'll be quite some time before the knocking and banging returns. If it does, we'll go thru the process again! And you are correct ... this Nyogel lubricant will last longer than us in this life. We both believe you are our new hero! Janet and Ken in Greenville, SC
@@robertpodolsky6252 You have to have something cling to the rod more tightly than just the cups. If you didn't put in new dampers (the bits I use epoxy for), then it won't help. (Sorry I haven't been responsive - I've had a family emergency tying me up for the past 8 months.)
Thanks man! We live on Kauai and have had this issue on our washer probably a year after we bought it (had to wait months for it like you said) Gonna give this a shot before I shell out for new rods/springs Thanks!!
@@zackstone6354 PERFECT! I bought exactly what you used and did the same. It’s been weeks now and no banging when spinning even with big, heavy loads. And like you say, if it starts banging again, I will just apply more dampening grease from time to time if needed. So far no need works like brand new. Thank you!!
I had a junk cheap washer and never had a problem until I upgraded and bought a high end washer and it’s never worked on high spin because it would bang up against the walls so I would stop it and now I’m going to try your fix thanks for the video
Looks great! I appreciate your guidance, single mama attempting to fix my admiral. Now I can at least check those before spending extra money. The video is great, since I am a newbie Mayne slow motion and up close to see what's going on.. can't wait to learn more
Hands down the best video and explanation of load balance problems. And thanks dude for making this!. my mind was asking the same questions about "the failure of said rods" after following the search. Great to know its a relatively simple repair. There are probably millions of rods now in landfill that did not need to be replaced.. Ridiculous the service technicians arent trained to service the rods. my washing machine brand (Fisher & Paykel) wants $157 for a set. this is the real gravy train for manufacturers.
If techs were “trained” to repair rods they would t really make any money. This is better off being an owner repair. You’ll save money on a service call and the tech will take a call where he can actually make money. Just my thinking on it. And to be honest they make appliances to be replaced anymore. Quality has gone way down. But I will say one of the main issues with these rods is that people want these huge washers and then overload them causing premature wear. It’s what I call false advertising on the Appliance company by marketing them as extra large capacity then making a cheap appliance that can’t hold up to what they are selling.
@@kssooners1 I think you are very close to the truth on this. I'm very cynical about most new appliances and electronics. There's no reason for an LED TV to "wear out," right? So they invent ways for it to go bad. As to the service call bit, a truck roll these days must cost $250-300 with current inflation. If you can't recover that much profit from the stop, it isn't worth it. This is just the nature of things, today ... it is easier and cheaper to make a fully replaceable unit than to make a repairable one. This is also why "right to repair" is such a big deal, imo. The manufacturers do not, under any circumstances, want you fixing your own stuff. You should have to pay them to fix it or pay them to replace it. It is ruining both the economy and the planet over the long run ...
First of all thank you. I scratched my head more than a few times when trying to find the problem. Nothing visually obvious as in, nothing broken, no lose parts laying at the bottom of the machine. I did notice right away and commented about how sticky the grease is. I should have caught on at that point but I had no idea grease could be formulated to do the opposite of what I expect grease to do. Brilliant observation on your part! I did however invent a replacement plastic bushing using some 1/4” thick polyethylene but it didn’t work because I couldn’t get the proper shape I needed before I scrapped the idea. I even thought to cut off the ‘retainer’ on the bottom of the rod and running a die over the end to create threads to accommodate a nut for future repairs. That still may be an option but not right now. I’m hoping I can find some of that grease to try for myself but in the meantime, we stop the washer before the spin cycle completes. Pain in the butt! Thanks again for the tip!
A link to the stuff I used is in the description. What's funny is that damping grease is not a common sort of thing for people to know about. In fact, I only learned about it in the past 5ish years when dealing with little things like car A/C vents. A little motion-limiting grease is usually the difference-maker in something "feeling like quality, precision work while you operate it" and "loud, plastic, annoying, and cheap" even if made from the same material ... 3D print some widget that uses nylon gears, toss a little motion grease on it, and the difference is immediately obvious. But in a washing machine? I wasn't sure. I recorded it just in case, and I was dying laughing at the first spin cycle. It was flawless - worked better than I could have imagined. Hence, the wife's comment, too. I knew there was no way anyone else had figured that out after watching the videos I had seen on replacing the rods on UA-cam. We're past the 8-month mark, now ... still running on the same fix.
@@zackstone6354 Yes, I saw the links you provided but I’m in the Philippines so we don’t always have access to high products here. I did find some on Lazada (sort of like Amazon here) in bulk form. The ad has no information about it only that it’s ‘damping grease’. It’s somewhat reasonably priced @ around $15/30 grams. There are a couple other varieties too but they cost more than I want to spend at thins point in time. Looks like about a 2 week wait to ship from China so I’ll start wearing my underwear a bit longer between changes. Hahahaha I’m curious if you have any other dealings with corrosion and possible solutions due to living in such a harsh environment… Rusting metal, termites, intensely hot sun along with high humidity and, fighting with various insects in the garden are our problems I complain about most. Thanks for the update on the washer. I’m glad it’s working for you and I hope we have the same results.
@@nelsondog100 The rust is a never-ending battle. Marine environments are unkind to exposed metal of any sort. The only advice I have on that is to coat whatever you can with a good rust-preventer or rust "conditioner" and inspect it often. Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a huge help, but vigilance and quick treatment is the key to longevity. Heat accelerates the process, as well, so avoid direct sunlight or hot attic spaces, if you can. If you have an airtight space (I do not, as you could tell from the video), a dehumidifier is a huge benefit (or air conditioning). However, they can be very expensive to run in the tropics ...
@@zackstone6354 I’ve learned to coat everything I can with paint, grease or oil, it certainly helps. Ive seen some rust converters but I don’t know too much about them. I guess I’ll look into that soon. You’re right about being diligent and acting quickly. Thanks
Good job & funny too...yeah the Damping grease was key.I knew it was something different when I first got it on my fingers...my fix was to use Teflon (a rear bearing for a dryer) to replace the foam, then encircled the cup/foam with a stainless hose clamp, tightened (tuned) to dampen w/o the grease. In theory, if/when the Teflon wears,I can just reach down with a 1/4 in ratchet & re-tighten...
My 2 cents? If you throw some damping grease on that, the whole assembly will last years longer. Dry clamped Teflon certainly is clever, though! My concern is the same as @WasherDryerMoney 's liquid nails idea, though: Eventually, the metal WILL wear through that. Especially if you get a few specks of rust on the rod, it will get like sandpaper and just chew it up. (This is a more of a real risk in Hawaii / marine environments than most other places, but if you have a damp basement, you won't be far behind me us in Rusty Rods. You can treat the rest of it with knife oil if you are concerned about it.)
Interesting! I wonder if just a piece of soft but rugged rubber the right side would suffice for the restrictive orifice. Maybe piece of rubber gas line or even a faucet washer? Congratulations on your deductive skills. Great video.
YOu know what depresses me, we gain all this knowledge over our lives then we die and it's all gone. Except youtube keeps it going for us to pass on. Without UA-cam, I wouldn't have gained a lot of knowledge. I'm still depressed about this. thanks for your video. You made a difference.
Don't let the existential dread get to you, Robby. Humans have forgotten how to do things and re-learned them many, many times in history. First, we thought it was just Columbus that took a boat to America. Then it was also the Vikings. Then it was also the Polynesians. It turns out that any stable culture sitting by the ocean long enough will give crossing the water a try. The Polynesians didn't do anything that humans 30,000 years ago couldn't have done (and probably did). They were master navigators, but "we" modern folk almost lost the knowledge of how they did it. Not that we could erase the proof they DID do it (that proof is all over the Pacific), but just the know how. It happens.
I bought some of that grease(thank you). Well I have a ge washer too. The suspension rods are a little different. They have a metal spring also but the dampening effect comes from a plastic disc (piston) that rides or moves back and forth in a plastic cylinder. So I applied the grease on the piston and cylinder, and on the metal rod where is goes through the back end of the cylinder. Anyway It still needed the grease in there to slow the movement down. So it works like new again.
I finally got the grease I ordered from China but it’s no good. I instantly noticed it’s consistency was not as thick as the original goop found on the rod. I reluctantly applied it to all four corners and put the washer back together. I soon found myself looking for new rods on the local online shop. I haven’t bought replacement units yet but still looking for some sort of grease. I found Dow Corning moly kite but it’s over $40! If I knew 100% it would work, I might buy it. I guess I’ll get the $15 replacement set of rods and experiment with the old ones.
I'm curious whether some plumbers grease or non-curing thread sealant would work as good as the damping grease? i bought an aftermarket set of rods, but fully intend to rebuild the originals and have a spare set to swap in when the replacements eventually go bad. Other solutions to the dampers include wrapping them with electrical tape to restore the grip, or splitting them and putting some rubber hose in between to increase the friction. I'm also considering combining those two solutions.
I have noticed that unlike all other things in the past three years, rods have gotten a LOT cheaper. When I first looked at replacing the rods, a set of them was over $100 to order to Hawaii. Now, I think I can get a kit that is under $40 for the same washer. I can't prove that this video had anything to do with that, but given that several other videos with similar methods are available on UA-cam, now ... maybe these rods seem less "magical" than they used to be? And getting $20 or $40 is better than letting them all sit on the shelf ...
I try to keep it from sticking too much to it. You don't want to let it BOND with the rod. A little stick is okay so long as you can break it free. The epoxy piece needs to be able to move with the spring.
Aloha! (We have close friends in Kauai.) Deeply grateful for your video and expertise. QUESTION: How do you keep the putty from bonding with the steel shaft? I will be attempting this repair over the weekend. If you could share your wisdom and experience on this, it would be (even more) greatly appreciated! Mahalo!
When I lived in Hawwaii I picked up an old avacado green Maytag washer along the roadside replaced the filter in the agitator and used it the whole time i lived there and left it with the landloard when I left and they conyinued to use it for years
Definitely not gonna try to dive into crypto again but hell of a investigative job on this subject. Really did drive me nuts on how these new rods are supposed to be the solution. Great presentation and humor too thank you sir!
You can probably give a much better description of how the grease works. I simply know it DOES and a tiny bit about why, but that's mostly by accident. I first ran into the stuff a few years ago when people were applying it to 3D printed gears. (It makes a plastic/nylon gearbox feel like a premium, precise thing instead of a quick-and-dirty thing made from Dollar Store parts.)
nice stuff, the solution i plan on mines is to use nylon zip ties to tighten the bushing and some silicone grease for the shaft. which should save me a good $40 or so. Thx!
Great video. I’m going to do a follow video and I’ll probably bring up part of how you did your fix. I did find another way of making the sponge that you made with epoxy that’s a lot faster and easier and most importantly cheaper from another repair guy. I’ll probably suggest a combination of your repair and his repair as the best way of doing it. Although there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. I have received about 10 other very good suggestions that have worked. Which makes sense it solving a simple problem of gripping a rod. Again good job on finding the correct grease great video.
Wouldn't have gotten there without yours, sir. Every UA-cam video is like, "check these 5 things, and if it isn't fixed, swap the rods." And that bothered you, and after that video, it didn't sit right with me, either. Thanks for the reference!
Zack, first thank you to both you and washer dryer money for isolating the root of this problem. Do you know the dimensions of the foam cylinder that wears out, and the diameter of the steel rod it slides on? I was contemplating using some plastic rod (probably nylon or acetyl) cut to length and drilling out the center. Then putting a slot along the side so I can snap it onto the steel rod. Plastic rods come in various diameters and it would help to know the dimensions. The washer I am hoping to fix is 1100 miles away from me right now, or I would just get the dimensions myself! Thanks!
Unfortunately, I think these come in pretty variable shapes and sizes. That's one advantage of the epoxy solution: It is fit-to-task. I agree that a cut-to-size sleeve of something like brass would be ideal, but it would be tricky to make a rod this way from a distance!
That was excellent -- especially the analysis of how those rods work. I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what goes on with them. For me, I'll just replace them every few years -- I'm too lazy to use your method, lol. But I am very impressed with your uncovering the way the these work. Thanks!
I mean, if you are going to go through all the trouble of replacing them, you are already doing the hard part: Taking them out and putting them back in! All I'm doing is adding a few bits of sticky stuff between those parts of the job. 😇
@@zackstone6354 I suppose so. I've saved a link to this so maybe next time they go I will do it. Time will tell. Or the damn washer might break beyond easy repair, lol. Thanks again.
Can you recommend a good solvent for nyogel 767a? I downloaded the data sheet from the manufacturer but no solvent listed. They said for skin contact soap and water. I've tried alcohol, acetone, carb and brake cleaner no luck.
Thanks Zack I'll give it a go. I know what you're talking about in regards to high humidity salt environment. I live 500' from the ocean just south of cape Canaveral. Two of my rods rusted out and the machine is only 3 years old@@zackstone6354
GREAT video. A geek like me who decided to understand what was happening. On my Samsung top-loader my board went out. Tech guy fixed it and was really cool when I asked about the off balance code it was throwing. He grabbed the tub shook it and said, those rods are bad, get these on Amazon and you can do it yourself. So I did. Install took me 10 minutes and cost me $50. Then I looked at the parts to see what could possibly go wrong. I ended up hanging mine like you did and measures the spring compression with a ftlb meter and they were all different. Now the thing purrs like yours!
Yeah, the "intuitive" thing is to see the spring and think, "Oh, those different compressions are obviously unbalancing it." But that's not really the problem. The spring just has to absorb the impulse; the off-balance comes from the uncontrolled release of the tension. I didn't understand: Did you replace the rods or not? Also, did the NEW springs have different compressions, as well? It would not surprise me if they did. Also, if you did get new rods, you can have a "spare" set of rods by reconditioning the ones you pulled out. :-)
@@zackstone6354 It did, however there was another video to use liquid nails in place of the sponges inside of the plastic things that go on the rod. I need to redo the liquid nail but the dampening grease does its job.
I replaced the bit of pool noodle in the center with two rubber bands (3.5"x.25") in the place of the pool noodle. Seems to work fine for about 5 cents.
I'm wondering if Viton or neoprene rubber insert will solve the problem for good? You get these in standard cross sections, make a split version to insert into the plastic piece with a correct hole for the rod and should be good for many years. Use a hose clamp or something to keep the split insert from opening.
Now all I have to do is decide which is more worthwhile. Taking the machine in under warranty to have it fixed and spend time and money getting it to the shop or do this and spend time and money on fixing it at home lol.
You should package the grease in little tiny container and resell it in quantity of a single repair so we all don't have to buy a big tube. Great video. Funny how ours just quit on a cycle and hasn't worked since.
I took my rods out and grease them. Ran a cycle and it still showed UE. Did some more research @"You can fix that" said to check the bottom nut. I tipped the washer on it's front and tightened the spindle nut, it was loose and there's a hall sensor that detects vibration. Since the stator was loose it was sensed as vibration and shut down. Tightened it up and good to go. Thanks for your video, enjoy Hawaii!
@@chrismiles1369 Yeah, this is more of a "do this last" kind of thing. I guess I haven't made that clear, but there are some other reasons for UE to check before you get in there and take the whole daggum thing apart. This is just the step between, "Okay, it's the rods" and "I am ordering a new $150 set of rods" or whatever they cost for your model.
You are welcome to do so and reference the video. I honestly don't have time for that. Much as I love fixing stuff, I have about 4 other ways to make money before I get down to selling little packets of sticky grease. :-)
Zach, Mahalo for your video. I will be attempting to recreate the repair this weekend once the grease arrives. The one question I have is, how many JB steel sticks did you need to make the "new gripper" part for all four rods? I received my ordered product. However it doesn't look like it'll be enough to make four copies of your gripper part. Mahalo for your assistance. Aloha
Aloha! In most cases, I think 1 would do the trick. However, the design of these rods varies a lot between models. So, if you think a "good fit" on the rod for the pieces you have would exceed 1, I'd pick up a 2nd. For what it is worth, you can get Steelstick at Walmart or Home Depot here on Big Island, and even my tiny local hardware store usually has a couple. So the only thing you have to "order" from off-island is typically the grease (depending on which island you are on, of course). 🤙
@@zackstone6354 Mahalo. I ended up getting a second one just in case at home depot. Repair was made to washer last weekend and waited till Wednesday to let the new grippers cure. You were also right about the "dampening grease" that stuff was tacky and nasty to work with, but I could see how it made a difference. Worked like when it was new. no need to buy $90 dollar rods (ea). Mahalo Zach for sharing your manao (knowledge).
They're 'damper rods' and operate on 'controlled friction' like a shock absorber. The issue is they ALL have to work and provide, relatively the same resistance at each mounting point, otherwise you'll have a problem maintaining balance. By the way, that is a LOUSY suspension/dampening design which seems to have become common in all residential washers lately. The 'old' method was to suspend the tub from the base of the chassis (which commercial washers still use). Not smart or effective to try and suspend 15 gallons of water and wet clothes from 4 skimpy points on a flimsy cabinet. Good job fixing it.
It is a strange design, and I'm not sure why it is so prevalent. To your point about the same resistance, I think it is more like a threshold: They each have to remove some minimum amount of bounciness, but above that line, they can be pretty different and still keep the thing stable. I'm quite certain my bespoke rod refurbishing, including accidentally bending one, shows they have wide tolerance, at least. They all have to take energy out of the system, but it can be pretty vastly different at each rod - so long as each is contributing *something* to the process, it seems to work fine. Once you have one that is nearly elastic where most of the energy comes back out, that's when things go sideways (literally).
I really appreciate your video. How long has your first application of Nyogel lasted? I'm trying to decide if this method will last long enough to justify it over buying new OEM rods. I really don't want to have to apply more damping grease every few weeks, so I would love to hear an update.
Well, let's see ... I did this in November, and it still runs butter smooth in March. My suspicion is that the grease I used will last in the Hawaiian environment for about 6 - 12 months, at worst. If yours is sitting in a basement in a less-hostile environment, then you should get 2-3 years out of it like you would with a new set of rods. It's definitely not something to do every week or even every month. If that becomes necessary, then something else is off.
That is pretty cool and thanks for sharing, but it's a lot of work when you consider the fact that you can find a new set of rods for $20 bucks if you shop around for them.
Same thought. The grease plus JB weld is $25 + tax, a new set of rods for my appliance is $22 + tax or $25 locally. Any ways, it's always good to learn a little bit of everything.
@@robertpodolsky6252 I can't think of any reason you might not find rods for $20. The whole point of this video is that there's nothing magical about them. A few pieces of steel, plastic, and grease should maybe cost around $10-15 to manufacture. So, I believe folks can find cheap rods. It just bothered me that most of the explanations are "throw away these steel things because they have 'gone bad' if you see this." It's a spring and a rod. If it isn't rusting apart, it isn't "going bad."
What about the idea of finding something metal that can be tightened around the rod in place of the plastic or SteelStick gripper. In fact, what about stacking 2 or 3 Zip Ties that are pulled as tight as they can go to see how quick they burn down or not.
There's another video that someone posted a link to in the comments. ua-cam.com/video/W3VE66YIWss/v-deo.html - I love the simplicity of this approach, but I don't really know how to compare how long it will last. Part of the purpose of the epoxy is to increase the surface area for the action of the grease, not just to make it tighter, again. Intuitively, I think it should work longer if you have a greater amount of contact with the rod than just a zip tie as a restriction, but I don't know for certain that would be better than the original plastic cup getting squeezed by a metal constrictor ...
I suspect that our Whirlpool Cabrio Platinum washer could use this, I would have liked to see what the original dampers looked like and maybe got an idea of what kind of material they're made out of, guess I'll see that when I tackle ours. Also, I'm not sure how much grease you used so I'll have to try to guess at that.
Not much grease, really. My dampeners were basically rotted, so I don't really know what the original material was. Sorry for the late reply, but curious if you were able to fix it.
@@zackstone6354 It ended up being the main bolt on the bottom of the tub, underneath of the washer. It's easy to get to, it was loose. I cleaned the threads and put a dab of blue Loc-tite on them and tightened it up. It's been purring like a kitten since.
After doing tons of research, discovered that the grease is Damping grease designed to cause resistance. I uncapped mine, slid the packing out, re applied grease from underneath cap to rod, wrapped electrical tape around packing a few rounds and snapped together. Now resistance is there again. Packing piece is tapered to squeeze tight against rod.
I've ordered the grease, and I think I'll copy your idea of using electrical tape to increase the friction on the packing tube. I was wondering if the packing material appeared to be open cell, allowing it to absorb the grease. If so, perhaps the packing material was originally infused with the grease and served as both a friction media and reservoir to slowly release more grease. Thanks for posting and thanks to Zack for recognizing the grease.
@@user-wh5mh2jt7t I think that was the original design intent, but the friction media in mine seemed to be a sort of PE foam. I can't imagine that was "built to last." The best thing is probably some kind of brass fitting or sleeve with the damping grease between it and the rod. Something cut on a lathe an machined with precision to allow the least amount of grease between the damper and the rod.
JB Weld's Steelstick is something I have used for many little "fabrication" projects like this. It hardens quickly, and the finished object is typically very durable.
YOU DON'T NEED TO DO ALL OF THIS AT ALL!!! The fix is messy as hell but will only take ya about an extra 30mins over just replacing the rods. Our 2020 Samsung washer got to where no matter how much you babied it by carefully placing the clothes in 99% of every load would have the UB error. Rather then buying new Suspension rods we bought a tube of the Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease on Amazon for about $26 total and refilled the original rods as they are the best mknry can buy.. Tools you need are Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease. a flat bladed screw driver a Phillips driver some tough gloves!! nitrile wont work as the grease will rip them apart as its extremely sticky. Rubbing Alcohol Paper towels And maybe a helping hand. Each washer is different so get down to the rods and take one out. On the lower section on top of the spring is a cup,you need to split that cup in half if you look closely you will see where they separate,using the flat blade you should be able to split them fairly easily. inside one half of the cup should be a sponge piece, you can remove it by putting pressure on one side of the cup while sliding it up the rod and the Friction should pull the sponge out. This sponge combined with the Damping Grease is the magic of how these rods work. Take the sponge out (the one in our washer came split down the middle long ways,if yours is solid use a razer blade to make a split so you can take it off the rod) now wipe it down with a paper towel that has Rubbing alcohol on it. Wipe down any more black Grease that you see in the area. Apply about a quarter sized amount of the Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease Lubricant to the inside of the sponge and carefully slide the sponge back into the cup,then slide both halfs of the cup back together. Now this is the important part.i believe the reason the old Grease is black is from wear of the sponge which has Contaminated the old Grease and will make it not Damping as well,so the rods fail to keep things in balance.as you compress the cup down onto the spring a few times you will start to see more black Grease on the rod.this is the new clean Grease pushing the old dirty crap out so Clean that black crap off really good. Compres the spring a good 10 times or so and wipe as much of the black Grease away as you can. Now pull the cup apart again and repeat cleaning the sponge and refilling until its fairly clean when you press the cup and spring together a few times. Before the final time to go to put the cup back together put a little extra Grease in behind the sponge on either side,then put everything back together and repeat for the other rods. I did this today and to test it we dumped a huge load of towels in without worrying about placement, just straight out of the basket into the washer which we haven't been able to even attempt since it was brand new,and it washed and spun everything just like it was brand new. I do not know how long this will last,but im hoping atleast a year and if so it will just become part of our year Maintenance on our washer&dryer.
What if the plastic part is loose though like not stuck in the coils like it’s suppose to be but separated from it then do we need to do what he does in this vid to make “another one” that will be stuck in the coils or will just doing what ur saying with the Nyogel work?
@@caseslearningtube If you know another dampening grease, it will probably work fine. This was just something I ran across that I thought would do the job, and it turns out I was right.
Unfortunately, what often happens with bouncy washers that have been bouncy for a long time is that none of those little bits are still remotely viable. In my case, the grease had burned and the seals completely rotted. Hence, I'm pulling them out in little pieces with the flat head to build new stabilizers.
Thanks for this smart evaluation of a tricky problem ... was hoping I could just apply the grease and am not clear on why I need to refashion a liquid steel doohickey if the original junk looks OK. Exasperating ...the engineers who designed these flimsy pieces of crap ought to be covered in honey and staked naked to a termite mound. This was a $400 washer designed to fail and i am wondering why some greedy lawyer hasn't filed a class action by now???
You know, I'm not that mad about it ... but I do understand why people would be. In terms of using the "original doohickey," I don't know the answer. The "cup" thing had a "sleeve" thing in it. The "sleeve" was some kind of foam or fabric or paper or something, but it was mostly disintegrating with the aging grease. Even if I threw more new grease into it, I don't think it would have created the fluid dynamics necessary to dampen the bouncing. I knew that creating a new "gripper" would do the trick for sure if it could tightly limit the space between it and the rod. So I just went straight to that design ...
A little bit of advice= slow down the play back when you are actually making the "gripper" on the rod. I could not see what you were doing at that time in the video. There are two or three videos that do a better job on you tube. I thank you for the effort you made but the other videos are the ones I will use to repair my washer.
Since I posted this, a couple of folks have figured out some better ways to make grippers. But the secret is really the grease. So, however you get something to stick to rod that restricts the flow of the grease, you'll be good.
Zack Stone 1 second ago The "cup" thing had a "sleeve" thing in it. The "sleeve" was some kind of foam or fabric or paper or something, but it was mostly disintegrating with the aging grease. At around the 1:26 mark in the video, I am digging those out with a screwdriver and tossing them in the trash. Even if I threw more new grease into it, I don't think it would have created the fluid dynamics necessary to dampen the bouncing. I knew that creating a new "gripper" would do the trick for sure if it could tightly limit the space between it and the rod. So I just went straight to that design ...
I just put new rods in mine that did nothing. I will do this fix to the old ones and transfer them. I looked for the dampening grease on Amazon and the epoxy is offered as an add on. I guess enough people are buying both so Amazon puts them together for you.
So I ordered the grease and epoxy. While waiting I took one of the old ones apart, the insert seemed sound, it was just dry with a small amount of grease inside the cap. When I got the grease I just squeeze grease in the bottom of the holder and some inside the cap. I did that to all four rods and pushed everything back together. To make it easy I just replaced one rod at a time, my wife helped me tip the machine over to slide one out and slide the replacement back in. Works better then new. I will just store the epoxy and new rods in my garage in case I need them.
I forget what brand washer and dryer my parents have but I have to ask my mom to do my laundry for me because I do not have easy access to them currently . However , my clothes , my black pants that I first noticed it on , have reddish brown stains on it. WHAT could be causing this???? Driving me mad since initially I thought it was the sunshine causing it to appear that way at first but no , even inside at normal light I can see streaks of these stains. I think one of my white tshirt has some of this staining too. Please help me to get to the root cause of it. Hopefully it’s something I or another family member can remedy ourselves without having to call a service person.
If it comes off, then it is likely rust from somewhere along the water path. If it does not, it is likely a small amount of leftover bleach that isn't fully draining out of loads of white clothing.
@@zackstone6354 ugh…I hate front loading washers. Those gaskets get to smelling so disgusting and the junk left behind in the cranny (I don’t even know the proper name for it , lol). Will non-chlorine bleach do the same thing ? I don’t think my mom uses bleach anymore but it’s possible she uses Oxyclean when she washes whites …
@@SleeplessinOC Typically, with black clothing, "staining" is something that removes pigment, not stains over the top of it. "Color safe bleach" can sometimes cause issues in black clothing under certain circumstances. Also, various acids can do it. If there was something particularly salty, or maybe citric acid spilled in there, or a half-dozen other things. Tough to say. Personally, I'm a fan of front-loaders. They last a LOT longer than the basin kind because of the direct drive mechanisms. However, yeah, that means they can also build up bacteria in certain spots that can be tough to clean out. Sometimes, you can get rid of the smell by running a load with old-fashioned bleach and an empty (or as nearly empty as it will let you) load right after it to clear any residual bleach. It also seems like your mom quit using bleach probably because the washer didn't fully drain ... thus leaving some bleach behind to ruin things in the next load like you are seeing. I'd Google for common "draining" issues on that model of washer.
I wanted something that would fit into the "cup" that came on my model. I suppose that whole assembly could be replaced if you found one of those that fit on there tightly enough - assuming you could get it onto the rod without damaging it.
Unfortunately, no. But the thing you are looking for is called "damping grease" or sometimes "motion grease." It is a bit unusual to find in a hardware store, but perhaps an auto parts store would have something similar for hydraulics.
Try a non hardening plumbing thread sealant. Greaselike paste that might have teflon. Applied some on my OEM suspension rods so it would get into worn out bushings and it seems to help. Washer was shaking violently at start of spin cycle but if it could get past a certain speed it would stop shaking. The paste seemed to make just enough difference.
I’m trying to repair mine but the most important part of video went too fast with music. Don’t know if I should fill in with epoxy or solely on the rod and push it down using vise?
I would not "fill in" with the epoxy. It needs to be able to move against the rod. You might get a better perspective by watching the video that inspired me: ua-cam.com/video/IZZCwXEmGhE/v-deo.html
@@zackstone6354 Well, I managed to move them and filled in nicely with black plastic where the foam was. Almost made exact same thing. Now I gorged them with dampening grease. See how that works.
@@robertmunguia250 Best of luck! If you bought the big tube of grease, yes, it is spendy - especially considering you will only need about a spoonful, total. However, I still haven't had to re-grease mine, and I expected to need to do so, by now.
Appreciate the thrust of this and I know island life (Vieques, Puerto Rico) - you have to make do sometimes - but ppl don't have time to play games w/ that. The WasherDryerMoney guy said his hot glue solution stopped working after a month. There are many modules or components we buy for things from trucks to computers that are 'all of a piece' because drilling down to that one thing that fouled up is a worse option. I don't want to know if the piston or clutch assembly of my truck's AC compressor went out, I'm just going to order a new compressor. Same here. The linear dampener on all these models are different too. Here's a guy who knows all these connecting rod assemblies, he said GE were the only ones to get it right though the Samsung one is engineered well, probably second best: 1:55 mark ua-cam.com/video/xmBJdpUfV-Q/v-deo.html
At the end of the day, you are paying for $$$ steel rod to get a tiny patch of grease. Up to you, but most folks would rather just fix it to work with their own patch of grease. I would say, "the steel rod doesn't go bad," but as you mention, "Island Life." Rust is real, and the rods CAN go bad quickly in marine environments if left to sit for a long time. But if you have a perfectly good looking steel rod, then it's probably fine. Just grease it.
Zach, I watched your video and also this one here: ua-cam.com/video/W3VE66YIWss/v-deo.html I'm wondering if, instead of disassembling the cup and fashioning that additional piece from the SteelStik putty, why not just use a plastic collar clamp (as seen in the aforementioned video), in addition to using your suggestion of the 767A grease? I think the other video is onto something, but missing the relubricating with damping grease. Thoughts?
I love it! I left a comment on his video. I may end up doing 2 rods that way and 2 rods my way on the next one - just to see which lasts longer. I'm a sucker for the simplicity of his approach, though. If you have white cups and clear grease, it should be fine to leave that so long as the grease still feels a bit "tacky." If the grease is yellow or brown, then I'd replace it. If you started with black grease (some rods I've seen do), then I'm not sure what would be best, there ...
I'm not sure how this method would work on the damper rod assemblies that do NOT have the extended "nipple" on the upper spring retainer "cap" for the metal collar to attach to?
Zack, nice job. After watching the video a few times while waiting for the grease to be delivered I developed a question. After making the bead of jb weld putty did you slide it up and down to make sure it did not stick to the rod? Also noticed you made a button head even though the original foam was just a tube, just curious why.
Yes: The point is that it has to be able to move, but it is the "limiter" in terms of grease flow between the bead and the rod. So, if it sticks, that's bad; it needs to move. As to the button head, that was just the shape in the cup? I suppose I think it probably absorbs "shocks" a little better by distributing the "hit" over a wider area than the narrow bead, but if your "cup" only has a sleeve, that's probably fine. The key to the whole mechanism is limiting the motion of the bead against the rod by limiting the amount of fluid that can pass in that very tight space. Air would not provide any significant resistance, so you get bouncing. A regular lubricant would also seek to REDUCE resistance, so something like "teflon" would turn it into a Bouncy House. The motion grease is meant to serve as a "speed limiter" - it can still move, but only "so much."
I have ordered new rods with the plan to go nuclear with the old ones. I intend to somehow incorporate hydraulic dampeners to permanently fix this issue. Maybe cut the rod and weld them on in place of the existing dampener...I don't know yet. I do know the current design is terrible.
take them rod and take them little rubber things out of there and put pantyhose in there rapid tight put the cap back on them. it'll work I've got about 60 loads on the machine was in there getting grease it or nothing just put the pantyhose in there and let it run and you'll put the pantyhose in there where you can still close the cap but wrap it tight
That's super interesting! In the case of the pantyhose, the energy is dissipated by the nylon's flexing instead of the fluid dynamics of the grease. I'm curious how long that lasts. I feel like my solution will last a little longer, but it will depend on how long it takes the pantyhose to break down vs. the motion grease ... Please post a follow-up comment when you have to check it again! Mine has been going for 8 months now. This video getting over 10k views is hilarious to me, too. I knew it would get a lot of views, but I have to admit I still find it funny.
This repair was made on 2021/12/05. As of 2022/05/08 (154 days), the washer still runs all spin cycles flawlessly. I have applied no new grease, yet. I have made a couple of additional repairs to fix cosmetic problems (mostly parts that are excessively rusty here in Hawaii), but it still runs through a full cycle without incident every time. I do expect to check the state of the rods at 12 months, but I don't expect to find problems, yet. If so, I will again chalk it up to the marine environment which causes things to break down very quickly, here.
Aloha Zack! Glad I came across your video. I'm facing the same problem wth my Maytag Washer. It seems I've had problems from the very beginning since I bought the machine especially with the sensor thingy. I've had two replaced and the second one has a mind of its own. I more or less have to baby sit it or the washer will begin a new cycle. Now the banging begins!
Btw, I live on the Big Island too in Puna in a subdivision called HPP. It seems everthing just rust, rot or mold! It's certainly a challenge living in Hawaii!!
You just saved me 60$ for the rod set on my Samsung washer. Thank you for troubleshooting and sharing your results with us.
any updates Zack?
sir i just wanted to show you a easy way an it cost you next to nothing do it an lest than 10 min to fix
For those who are thinking about it, I tried applying new Nyogel to the original OEM rods and it was *not* sufficient. They worked at first but were failing again within a week. The mechanism must be very sensitive to the tight fit of the damping plugs. I also tried non-OEM replacement rods and they failed in a month. So either (1) try molding your own damper plugs as Zack did or (2) buy new OEM rods--they solved the problem.
I followed your suggestion exactly, and it worked perfectly. Just make sure to use Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease, as no other grease worked for me. My rods are about 2 years old, so I also replaced the internal cylinder with Epoxy Putty. I am a happy camper. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Hi Zack. The wife’s washer was walking across the floor every spin cycle. I thought about replacing the suspension rods but wanted to know why they wear out. I watched several videos only to be frustrated with the fixes. Then I watched your video and realized you had figured it out. I bought some damping grease and fixed the machine tonight. It works like new once again! Thanks for the great advice! Cheers!
I also was completely frustrated with nobody explaining why they fail. Not one person even measured the sping height to prove they were compressed without any load, nobody ever mentioned just buying new springs and rebuilding the rods. Now we have the answer.
My mother’s new GE walks around the room. Insane. Parts could not be worn, it did it when bran spankin new!
I dunno if this will fix my washer but it cured my insomnia. I fell right asleep. Thanks for that.
I unfortunately bought new washer rods before watching this video. But I did order some Nyogel 767A before putting them into the washer and greased the new rods with the dampening grease. I think this is a great idea.
I have the non-glass top version of this washer and it lasted us almost 10 years before this issue popped-up. I just changed the rods for $42 (bought them from Amazon). Hopefully, I'll get another few years at least, but overall, it has been a good washer given the amount of work it gets. This was a great video and something I'll keep in mind for the next time.
I totally admire your insight into this problem. Thanks to Amazon - I was able to purchase a set of suspension rods and they were delivered a few days later. Wish me luck. I am absolutely going to try your approach if this problem rears its ugly head. Last year I noticed rust on the exterior of the washer housing down around the base of the unit. Six years. You'd think they could make enamel last a little longer.
But then you wouldn't need a new one ...
Thank you for the video. I ended up cleaning off the rod assembly but had nothing to use but some 3M Super && Multipurpose Adhesive. I sprayed it all inside the pieces and over the rod and reinstalled it. It now runs like new pretty much. Thanks again.
Hi, Zack, from Upstate South Carolina. We owe you and Washer Dryer Money a great deal of gratitude! Thank you, thank you, thank you! Hubby and I were ready to give up the 10-year-old washing machine ... until we happened upon your suspension rod fix. After watching WDM, then yours, we immediately ordered the Nyogel from Amazon and purchased Steel Stik from HD -- $32 investment saved hundreds! I'm into the 2nd load today after reinstalling the rods -- spin cycle hums like it used to 10 years ago. We'll still save our pennies should this fix not last, but we are confident it'll be quite some time before the knocking and banging returns. If it does, we'll go thru the process again! And you are correct ... this Nyogel lubricant will last longer than us in this life. We both believe you are our new hero! Janet and Ken in Greenville, SC
So, did the solution last? I tried it and the Nyogel leaked out onto the springs and stopped working after a day.
@@robertpodolsky6252 You have to have something cling to the rod more tightly than just the cups. If you didn't put in new dampers (the bits I use epoxy for), then it won't help. (Sorry I haven't been responsive - I've had a family emergency tying me up for the past 8 months.)
Thanks man! We live on Kauai and have had this issue on our washer probably a year after we bought it (had to wait months for it like you said)
Gonna give this a shot before I shell out for new rods/springs
Thanks!!
Aloha! How did it work out?
@@zackstone6354
PERFECT!
I bought exactly what you used and did the same. It’s been weeks now and no banging when spinning even with big, heavy loads. And like you say, if it starts banging again, I will just apply more dampening grease from time to time if needed. So far no need works like brand new.
Thank you!!
I had a junk cheap washer and never had a problem until I upgraded and bought a high end washer and it’s never worked on high spin because it would bang up against the walls so I would stop it and now I’m going to try your fix thanks for the video
Did this work for you?
yes, give us some feedback
Looks great! I appreciate your guidance, single mama attempting to fix my admiral. Now I can at least check those before spending extra money. The video is great, since I am a newbie Mayne slow motion and up close to see what's going on.. can't wait to learn more
Hands down the best video and explanation of load balance problems.
And thanks dude for making this!. my mind was asking the same questions about "the failure of said rods" after following the search.
Great to know its a relatively simple repair.
There are probably millions of rods now in landfill that did not need to be replaced.. Ridiculous the service technicians arent trained to service the rods. my washing machine brand (Fisher & Paykel) wants $157 for a set.
this is the real gravy train for manufacturers.
If techs were “trained” to repair rods they would t really make any money. This is better off being an owner repair. You’ll save money on a service call and the tech will take a call where he can actually make money. Just my thinking on it. And to be honest they make appliances to be replaced anymore. Quality has gone way down. But I will say one of the main issues with these rods is that people want these huge washers and then overload them causing premature wear. It’s what I call false advertising on the Appliance company by marketing them as extra large capacity then making a cheap appliance that can’t hold up to what they are selling.
@@kssooners1 I think you are very close to the truth on this. I'm very cynical about most new appliances and electronics. There's no reason for an LED TV to "wear out," right? So they invent ways for it to go bad. As to the service call bit, a truck roll these days must cost $250-300 with current inflation. If you can't recover that much profit from the stop, it isn't worth it. This is just the nature of things, today ... it is easier and cheaper to make a fully replaceable unit than to make a repairable one. This is also why "right to repair" is such a big deal, imo. The manufacturers do not, under any circumstances, want you fixing your own stuff. You should have to pay them to fix it or pay them to replace it. It is ruining both the economy and the planet over the long run ...
Great vid I wish I had found your vid before I purchased new rods. In the future I’ll get the dampening grease. Thanks a ton Boss.
Thank you sir for an outstanding explanation. Great work thank you again
First of all thank you. I scratched my head more than a few times when trying to find the problem. Nothing visually obvious as in, nothing broken, no lose parts laying at the bottom of the machine. I did notice right away and commented about how sticky the grease is. I should have caught on at that point but I had no idea grease could be formulated to do the opposite of what I expect grease to do. Brilliant observation on your part!
I did however invent a replacement plastic bushing using some 1/4” thick polyethylene but it didn’t work because I couldn’t get the proper shape I needed before I scrapped the idea. I even thought to cut off the ‘retainer’ on the bottom of the rod and running a die over the end to create threads to accommodate a nut for future repairs. That still may be an option but not right now.
I’m hoping I can find some of that grease to try for myself but in the meantime, we stop the washer before the spin cycle completes. Pain in the butt!
Thanks again for the tip!
A link to the stuff I used is in the description.
What's funny is that damping grease is not a common sort of thing for people to know about. In fact, I only learned about it in the past 5ish years when dealing with little things like car A/C vents. A little motion-limiting grease is usually the difference-maker in something "feeling like quality, precision work while you operate it" and "loud, plastic, annoying, and cheap" even if made from the same material ... 3D print some widget that uses nylon gears, toss a little motion grease on it, and the difference is immediately obvious.
But in a washing machine? I wasn't sure. I recorded it just in case, and I was dying laughing at the first spin cycle. It was flawless - worked better than I could have imagined. Hence, the wife's comment, too. I knew there was no way anyone else had figured that out after watching the videos I had seen on replacing the rods on UA-cam. We're past the 8-month mark, now ... still running on the same fix.
@@zackstone6354 Yes, I saw the links you provided but I’m in the Philippines so we don’t always have access to high products here. I did find some on Lazada (sort of like Amazon here) in bulk form. The ad has no information about it only that it’s ‘damping grease’. It’s somewhat reasonably priced @ around $15/30 grams. There are a couple other varieties too but they cost more than I want to spend at thins point in time. Looks like about a 2 week wait to ship from China so I’ll start wearing my underwear a bit longer between changes. Hahahaha
I’m curious if you have any other dealings with corrosion and possible solutions due to living in such a harsh environment… Rusting metal, termites, intensely hot sun along with high humidity and, fighting with various insects in the garden are our problems I complain about most.
Thanks for the update on the washer. I’m glad it’s working for you and I hope we have the same results.
@@nelsondog100 The rust is a never-ending battle. Marine environments are unkind to exposed metal of any sort. The only advice I have on that is to coat whatever you can with a good rust-preventer or rust "conditioner" and inspect it often. Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is a huge help, but vigilance and quick treatment is the key to longevity. Heat accelerates the process, as well, so avoid direct sunlight or hot attic spaces, if you can. If you have an airtight space (I do not, as you could tell from the video), a dehumidifier is a huge benefit (or air conditioning). However, they can be very expensive to run in the tropics ...
@@zackstone6354 I’ve learned to coat everything I can with paint, grease or oil, it certainly helps. Ive seen some rust converters but I don’t know too much about them. I guess I’ll look into that soon. You’re right about being diligent and acting quickly.
Thanks
Well done Good Sir! Thank you for your honesty.
Good job & funny too...yeah the Damping grease was key.I knew it was something different when I first got it on my fingers...my fix was to use Teflon (a rear bearing for a dryer) to replace the foam, then encircled the cup/foam with a stainless hose clamp, tightened (tuned) to dampen w/o the grease.
In theory, if/when the Teflon wears,I can just reach down with a 1/4 in ratchet & re-tighten...
My 2 cents? If you throw some damping grease on that, the whole assembly will last years longer. Dry clamped Teflon certainly is clever, though! My concern is the same as @WasherDryerMoney 's liquid nails idea, though: Eventually, the metal WILL wear through that. Especially if you get a few specks of rust on the rod, it will get like sandpaper and just chew it up. (This is a more of a real risk in Hawaii / marine environments than most other places, but if you have a damp basement, you won't be far behind me us in Rusty Rods. You can treat the rest of it with knife oil if you are concerned about it.)
So with motion grease and jb weld you increased the grippiness of the extension rods giving the suspension rods less bounce
Interesting! I wonder if just a piece of soft but rugged rubber the right side would suffice for the restrictive orifice. Maybe piece of rubber gas line or even a faucet washer? Congratulations on your deductive skills. Great video.
YOu know what depresses me, we gain all this knowledge over our lives then we die and it's all gone. Except youtube keeps it going for us to pass on. Without UA-cam, I wouldn't have gained a lot of knowledge. I'm still depressed about this. thanks for your video. You made a difference.
Don't let the existential dread get to you, Robby. Humans have forgotten how to do things and re-learned them many, many times in history. First, we thought it was just Columbus that took a boat to America. Then it was also the Vikings. Then it was also the Polynesians. It turns out that any stable culture sitting by the ocean long enough will give crossing the water a try. The Polynesians didn't do anything that humans 30,000 years ago couldn't have done (and probably did). They were master navigators, but "we" modern folk almost lost the knowledge of how they did it. Not that we could erase the proof they DID do it (that proof is all over the Pacific), but just the know how. It happens.
Too drawn out. Just buy new washing machine
I bought some of that grease(thank you). Well I have a ge washer too. The suspension rods are a little different. They have a metal spring also but the dampening effect comes from a plastic disc (piston) that rides or moves back and forth in a plastic cylinder. So I applied the grease on the piston and cylinder, and on the metal rod where is goes through the back end of the cylinder. Anyway It still needed the grease in there to slow the movement down. So it works like new again.
I finally got the grease I ordered from China but it’s no good. I instantly noticed it’s consistency was not as thick as the original goop found on the rod. I reluctantly applied it to all four corners and put the washer back together. I soon found myself looking for new rods on the local online shop. I haven’t bought replacement units yet but still looking for some sort of grease. I found Dow Corning moly kite but it’s over $40! If I knew 100% it would work, I might buy it. I guess I’ll get the $15 replacement set of rods and experiment with the old ones.
So the grease works exactly as shocks would work in a car. It dapens the recoil after the springs get compressed, interesting.
Thank you so much for sharing !
I'm curious whether some plumbers grease or non-curing thread sealant would work as good as the damping grease? i bought an aftermarket set of rods, but fully intend to rebuild the originals and have a spare set to swap in when the replacements eventually go bad. Other solutions to the dampers include wrapping them with electrical tape to restore the grip, or splitting them and putting some rubber hose in between to increase the friction. I'm also considering combining those two solutions.
Perfect! Thank you so much for creating this with the how's and why's! Starting this repair job tonight, fingers crossed.
Did it work out?
I had so much fun watching this video😁👍 Very educational, clearly explained and totally entertaining 😆….Thank You for taking the time❤️
Thanks for all the information.Mine has done it since new,drives me crazy.
you should make more repair videos, fix things and show the world. yes you do it well.
Thank you for posting this!
Saw your video and debated damping grease vs new rods. Grease ~$20 dollars vs new OEM rods ~ $60 . Rods won and the washer was working again.
I have noticed that unlike all other things in the past three years, rods have gotten a LOT cheaper. When I first looked at replacing the rods, a set of them was over $100 to order to Hawaii. Now, I think I can get a kit that is under $40 for the same washer. I can't prove that this video had anything to do with that, but given that several other videos with similar methods are available on UA-cam, now ... maybe these rods seem less "magical" than they used to be? And getting $20 or $40 is better than letting them all sit on the shelf ...
Once you shaped the expoxy , do you let it dry and stick to the rod or do you gotta keep it from setting up and sticking to the rod ??
I try to keep it from sticking too much to it. You don't want to let it BOND with the rod. A little stick is okay so long as you can break it free. The epoxy piece needs to be able to move with the spring.
Aloha! (We have close friends in Kauai.) Deeply grateful for your video and expertise. QUESTION: How do you keep the putty from bonding with the steel shaft? I will be attempting this repair over the weekend. If you could share your wisdom and experience on this, it would be (even more) greatly appreciated! Mahalo!
When I lived in Hawwaii I picked up an old avacado green Maytag washer along the roadside replaced the filter in the agitator and used it the whole time i lived there and left it with the landloard when I left and they conyinued to use it for years
Definitely not gonna try to dive into crypto again but hell of a investigative job on this subject. Really did drive me nuts on how these new rods are supposed to be the solution. Great presentation and humor too thank you sir!
I learned something new, thank you
I’m confused as to the purpose of the epoxy putty. Is it attached to the rod, permanently in one place on the rod or does it slide?
It has to slide. The purpose is to "squeeze" the nyogel - to limit movement. You want it to have very narrow (but lubricated) clearance over the rod.
Thanks. Enjoyed your video. Must be the chemist in me. I just bought new rods though. Good as new. Stay well bro.
You can probably give a much better description of how the grease works. I simply know it DOES and a tiny bit about why, but that's mostly by accident. I first ran into the stuff a few years ago when people were applying it to 3D printed gears. (It makes a plastic/nylon gearbox feel like a premium, precise thing instead of a quick-and-dirty thing made from Dollar Store parts.)
nice stuff, the solution i plan on mines is to use nylon zip ties to tighten the bushing and some silicone grease for the shaft. which should save me a good $40 or so. Thx!
Great video. I’m going to do a follow video and I’ll probably bring up part of how you did your fix. I did find another way of making the sponge that you made with epoxy that’s a lot faster and easier and most importantly cheaper from another repair guy. I’ll probably suggest a combination of your repair and his repair as the best way of doing it. Although there is definitely more than one way to skin a cat. I have received about 10 other very good suggestions that have worked. Which makes sense it solving a simple problem of gripping a rod.
Again good job on finding the correct grease great video.
Wouldn't have gotten there without yours, sir. Every UA-cam video is like, "check these 5 things, and if it isn't fixed, swap the rods." And that bothered you, and after that video, it didn't sit right with me, either. Thanks for the reference!
Looking forward to it! I've been flipping these for a couple years now and I'm glad people like you are finally figuring out how to defeat this issue.
Zack, first thank you to both you and washer dryer money for isolating the root of this problem. Do you know the dimensions of the foam cylinder that wears out, and the diameter of the steel rod it slides on? I was contemplating using some plastic rod (probably nylon or acetyl) cut to length and drilling out the center. Then putting a slot along the side so I can snap it onto the steel rod. Plastic rods come in various diameters and it would help to know the dimensions. The washer I am hoping to fix is 1100 miles away from me right now, or I would just get the dimensions myself! Thanks!
Unfortunately, I think these come in pretty variable shapes and sizes. That's one advantage of the epoxy solution: It is fit-to-task. I agree that a cut-to-size sleeve of something like brass would be ideal, but it would be tricky to make a rod this way from a distance!
That was excellent -- especially the analysis of how those rods work. I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what goes on with them. For me, I'll just replace them every few years -- I'm too lazy to use your method, lol. But I am very impressed with your uncovering the way the these work.
Thanks!
I mean, if you are going to go through all the trouble of replacing them, you are already doing the hard part: Taking them out and putting them back in! All I'm doing is adding a few bits of sticky stuff between those parts of the job. 😇
@@zackstone6354 I suppose so. I've saved a link to this so maybe next time they go I will do it. Time will tell. Or the damn washer might break beyond easy repair, lol. Thanks again.
Can you recommend a good solvent for nyogel 767a? I downloaded the data sheet from the manufacturer but no solvent listed. They said for skin contact soap and water. I've tried alcohol, acetone, carb and brake cleaner no luck.
Goo Gone, my friend ...
Thanks Zack I'll give it a go. I know what you're talking about in regards to high humidity salt environment. I live 500' from the ocean just south of cape Canaveral. Two of my rods rusted out and the machine is only 3 years old@@zackstone6354
Thank you for sharing
GREAT video. A geek like me who decided to understand what was happening. On my Samsung top-loader my board went out. Tech guy fixed it and was really cool when I asked about the off balance code it was throwing. He grabbed the tub shook it and said, those rods are bad, get these on Amazon and you can do it yourself. So I did. Install took me 10 minutes and cost me $50. Then I looked at the parts to see what could possibly go wrong. I ended up hanging mine like you did and measures the spring compression with a ftlb meter and they were all different. Now the thing purrs like yours!
Yeah, the "intuitive" thing is to see the spring and think, "Oh, those different compressions are obviously unbalancing it." But that's not really the problem. The spring just has to absorb the impulse; the off-balance comes from the uncontrolled release of the tension.
I didn't understand: Did you replace the rods or not? Also, did the NEW springs have different compressions, as well? It would not surprise me if they did. Also, if you did get new rods, you can have a "spare" set of rods by reconditioning the ones you pulled out. :-)
What type of grease do I put on suspension rods
thank you never knew about that type grease if been using the stuff from the sticky rodent and insect traps
Thanks!!! 🌞
Thanks for the explanation! Bought that dampening grease! :D
Did it work for you?
@@zackstone6354 It did, however there was another video to use liquid nails in place of the sponges inside of the plastic things that go on the rod. I need to redo the liquid nail but the dampening grease does its job.
Greetings do you have to remove any back panel screws before lifting lid???
I replaced the bit of pool noodle in the center with two rubber bands (3.5"x.25") in the place of the pool noodle. Seems to work fine for about 5 cents.
I'm wondering if Viton or neoprene rubber insert will solve the problem for good? You get these in standard cross sections, make a split version to insert into the plastic piece with a correct hole for the rod and should be good for many years. Use a hose clamp or something to keep the split insert from opening.
Nice job!
Now all I have to do is decide which is more worthwhile. Taking the machine in under warranty to have it fixed and spend time and money getting it to the shop or do this and spend time and money on fixing it at home lol.
You should package the grease in little tiny container and resell it in quantity of a single repair so we all don't have to buy a big tube. Great video. Funny how ours just quit on a cycle and hasn't worked since.
I took my rods out and grease them. Ran a cycle and it still showed UE. Did some more research @"You can fix that" said to check the bottom nut. I tipped the washer on it's front and tightened the spindle nut, it was loose and there's a hall sensor that detects vibration. Since the stator was loose it was sensed as vibration and shut down. Tightened it up and good to go. Thanks for your video, enjoy Hawaii!
@@chrismiles1369 Yeah, this is more of a "do this last" kind of thing. I guess I haven't made that clear, but there are some other reasons for UE to check before you get in there and take the whole daggum thing apart. This is just the step between, "Okay, it's the rods" and "I am ordering a new $150 set of rods" or whatever they cost for your model.
You are welcome to do so and reference the video. I honestly don't have time for that. Much as I love fixing stuff, I have about 4 other ways to make money before I get down to selling little packets of sticky grease. :-)
Thanks so much
Zach, Mahalo for your video. I will be attempting to recreate the repair this weekend once the grease arrives. The one question I have is, how many JB steel sticks did you need to make the "new gripper" part for all four rods? I received my ordered product. However it doesn't look like it'll be enough to make four copies of your gripper part. Mahalo for your assistance. Aloha
Aloha! In most cases, I think 1 would do the trick. However, the design of these rods varies a lot between models. So, if you think a "good fit" on the rod for the pieces you have would exceed 1, I'd pick up a 2nd. For what it is worth, you can get Steelstick at Walmart or Home Depot here on Big Island, and even my tiny local hardware store usually has a couple. So the only thing you have to "order" from off-island is typically the grease (depending on which island you are on, of course). 🤙
@@zackstone6354 Mahalo. I ended up getting a second one just in case at home depot.
Repair was made to washer last weekend and waited till Wednesday to let the new grippers cure. You were also right about the "dampening grease" that stuff was tacky and nasty to work with, but I could see how it made a difference. Worked like when it was new. no need to buy $90 dollar rods (ea). Mahalo Zach for sharing your manao (knowledge).
This is a great video. Maybe a little too long, so UA-cam purposes..... the only comment would be that the background noise is very disctracting.
They're 'damper rods' and operate on 'controlled friction' like a shock absorber. The issue is they ALL have to work and provide, relatively the same resistance at each mounting point, otherwise you'll have a problem maintaining balance. By the way, that is a LOUSY suspension/dampening design which seems to have become common in all residential washers lately. The 'old' method was to suspend the tub from the base of the chassis (which commercial washers still use). Not smart or effective to try and suspend 15 gallons of water and wet clothes from 4 skimpy points on a flimsy cabinet. Good job fixing it.
It is a strange design, and I'm not sure why it is so prevalent. To your point about the same resistance, I think it is more like a threshold: They each have to remove some minimum amount of bounciness, but above that line, they can be pretty different and still keep the thing stable. I'm quite certain my bespoke rod refurbishing, including accidentally bending one, shows they have wide tolerance, at least. They all have to take energy out of the system, but it can be pretty vastly different at each rod - so long as each is contributing *something* to the process, it seems to work fine. Once you have one that is nearly elastic where most of the energy comes back out, that's when things go sideways (literally).
I really appreciate your video. How long has your first application of Nyogel lasted? I'm trying to decide if this method will last long enough to justify it over buying new OEM rods. I really don't want to have to apply more damping grease every few weeks, so I would love to hear an update.
Well, let's see ... I did this in November, and it still runs butter smooth in March. My suspicion is that the grease I used will last in the Hawaiian environment for about 6 - 12 months, at worst. If yours is sitting in a basement in a less-hostile environment, then you should get 2-3 years out of it like you would with a new set of rods. It's definitely not something to do every week or even every month. If that becomes necessary, then something else is off.
That is pretty cool and thanks for sharing, but it's a lot of work when you consider the fact that you can find a new set of rods for $20 bucks if you shop around for them.
Same thought. The grease plus JB weld is $25 + tax, a new set of rods for my appliance is $22 + tax or $25 locally. Any ways, it's always good to learn a little bit of everything.
@@jesmasco in my experience those non-OEM rods that cost $20 don't tend to work for very long. Maybe their grease is inferior.
@@robertpodolsky6252 I can't think of any reason you might not find rods for $20. The whole point of this video is that there's nothing magical about them. A few pieces of steel, plastic, and grease should maybe cost around $10-15 to manufacture. So, I believe folks can find cheap rods. It just bothered me that most of the explanations are "throw away these steel things because they have 'gone bad' if you see this." It's a spring and a rod. If it isn't rusting apart, it isn't "going bad."
Can you send me an amazon link of the grease you use?. Thank you very much for this video.
I put a link to it in the description.
What about the idea of finding something metal that can be tightened around the rod in place of the plastic or SteelStick gripper. In fact, what about stacking 2 or 3 Zip Ties that are pulled as tight as they can go to see how quick they burn down or not.
There's another video that someone posted a link to in the comments. ua-cam.com/video/W3VE66YIWss/v-deo.html - I love the simplicity of this approach, but I don't really know how to compare how long it will last. Part of the purpose of the epoxy is to increase the surface area for the action of the grease, not just to make it tighter, again. Intuitively, I think it should work longer if you have a greater amount of contact with the rod than just a zip tie as a restriction, but I don't know for certain that would be better than the original plastic cup getting squeezed by a metal constrictor ...
I suspect that our Whirlpool Cabrio Platinum washer could use this, I would have liked to see what the original dampers looked like and maybe got an idea of what kind of material they're made out of, guess I'll see that when I tackle ours. Also, I'm not sure how much grease you used so I'll have to try to guess at that.
Not much grease, really. My dampeners were basically rotted, so I don't really know what the original material was. Sorry for the late reply, but curious if you were able to fix it.
@@zackstone6354 It ended up being the main bolt on the bottom of the tub, underneath of the washer. It's easy to get to, it was loose. I cleaned the threads and put a dab of blue Loc-tite on them and tightened it up. It's been purring like a kitten since.
After doing tons of research, discovered that the grease is Damping grease designed to cause resistance. I uncapped mine, slid the packing out, re applied grease from underneath cap to rod, wrapped electrical tape around packing a few rounds and snapped together. Now resistance is there again. Packing piece is tapered to squeeze tight against rod.
I've ordered the grease, and I think I'll copy your idea of using electrical tape to increase the friction on the packing tube. I was wondering if the packing material appeared to be open cell, allowing it to absorb the grease. If so, perhaps the packing material was originally infused with the grease and served as both a friction media and reservoir to slowly release more grease. Thanks for posting and thanks to Zack for recognizing the grease.
@@user-wh5mh2jt7t I think that was the original design intent, but the friction media in mine seemed to be a sort of PE foam. I can't imagine that was "built to last." The best thing is probably some kind of brass fitting or sleeve with the damping grease between it and the rod. Something cut on a lathe an machined with precision to allow the least amount of grease between the damper and the rod.
Thanks for the video! What kind of epoxy did you use?
JB Weld's Steelstick is something I have used for many little "fabrication" projects like this. It hardens quickly, and the finished object is typically very durable.
YOU DON'T NEED TO DO ALL OF THIS AT ALL!!! The fix is messy as hell but will only take ya about an extra 30mins over just replacing the rods.
Our 2020 Samsung washer got to where no matter how much you babied it by carefully placing the clothes in 99% of every load would have the UB error.
Rather then buying new Suspension rods we bought a tube of the Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease on Amazon for about $26 total and refilled the original rods as they are the best mknry can buy..
Tools you need are
Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease.
a flat bladed screw driver
a Phillips driver
some tough gloves!! nitrile wont work as the grease will rip them apart as its extremely sticky.
Rubbing Alcohol
Paper towels
And maybe a helping hand.
Each washer is different so get down to the rods and take one out.
On the lower section on top of the spring is a cup,you need to split that cup in half if you look closely you will see where they separate,using the flat blade you should be able to split them fairly easily.
inside one half of the cup should be a sponge piece, you can remove it by putting pressure on one side of the cup while sliding it up the rod and the Friction should pull the sponge out. This sponge combined with the Damping Grease is the magic of how these rods work.
Take the sponge out (the one in our washer came split down the middle long ways,if yours is solid use a razer blade to make a split so you can take it off the rod) now wipe it down with a paper towel that has Rubbing alcohol on it.
Wipe down any more black Grease that you see in the area.
Apply about a quarter sized amount of the Nyogel 767A Synthetic Damping Grease Lubricant to the inside of the sponge and carefully slide the sponge back into the cup,then slide both halfs of the cup back together.
Now this is the important part.i believe the reason the old Grease is black is from wear of the sponge which has Contaminated the old Grease and will make it not Damping as well,so the rods fail to keep things in balance.as you compress the cup down onto the spring a few times you will start to see more black Grease on the rod.this is the new clean Grease pushing the old dirty crap out so Clean that black crap off really good. Compres the spring a good 10 times or so and wipe as much of the black Grease away as you can.
Now pull the cup apart again and repeat cleaning the sponge and refilling until its fairly clean when you press the cup and spring together a few times.
Before the final time to go to put the cup back together put a little extra Grease in behind the sponge on either side,then put everything back together and repeat for the other rods.
I did this today and to test it we dumped a huge load of towels in without worrying about placement, just straight out of the basket into the washer which we haven't been able to even attempt since it was brand new,and it washed and spun everything just like it was brand new.
I do not know how long this will last,but im hoping atleast a year and if so it will just become part of our year Maintenance on our washer&dryer.
What if the plastic part is loose though like not stuck in the coils like it’s suppose to be but separated from it then do we need to do what he does in this vid to make “another one” that will be stuck in the coils or will just doing what ur saying with the Nyogel work?
Also can we use another brand of dampening grease/gel or does it have to be nyogel? Thanks
@@caseslearningtube If you know another dampening grease, it will probably work fine. This was just something I ran across that I thought would do the job, and it turns out I was right.
Unfortunately, what often happens with bouncy washers that have been bouncy for a long time is that none of those little bits are still remotely viable. In my case, the grease had burned and the seals completely rotted. Hence, I'm pulling them out in little pieces with the flat head to build new stabilizers.
Great job man
springs and a shock absorber?
Thanks for this smart evaluation of a tricky problem ... was hoping I could just apply the grease and am not clear on why I need to refashion a liquid steel doohickey if the original junk looks OK. Exasperating ...the engineers who designed these flimsy pieces of crap ought to be covered in honey and staked naked to a termite mound. This was a $400 washer designed to fail and i am wondering why some greedy lawyer hasn't filed a class action by now???
You know, I'm not that mad about it ... but I do understand why people would be. In terms of using the "original doohickey," I don't know the answer. The "cup" thing had a "sleeve" thing in it. The "sleeve" was some kind of foam or fabric or paper or something, but it was mostly disintegrating with the aging grease. Even if I threw more new grease into it, I don't think it would have created the fluid dynamics necessary to dampen the bouncing. I knew that creating a new "gripper" would do the trick for sure if it could tightly limit the space between it and the rod. So I just went straight to that design ...
Did you try it with just the grease? I had the same thought.
A little bit of advice= slow down the play back when you are actually making the "gripper" on the rod. I could not see what you were doing at that time in the video. There are two or three videos that do a better job on you tube. I thank you for the effort you made but the other videos are the ones I will use to repair my washer.
Since I posted this, a couple of folks have figured out some better ways to make grippers. But the secret is really the grease. So, however you get something to stick to rod that restricts the flow of the grease, you'll be good.
The original “gripper” was removed from the rod? I missed what happened to them.
Zack Stone
1 second ago
The "cup" thing had a "sleeve" thing in it. The "sleeve" was some kind of foam or fabric or paper or something, but it was mostly disintegrating with the aging grease. At around the 1:26 mark in the video, I am digging those out with a screwdriver and tossing them in the trash. Even if I threw more new grease into it, I don't think it would have created the fluid dynamics necessary to dampen the bouncing. I knew that creating a new "gripper" would do the trick for sure if it could tightly limit the space between it and the rod. So I just went straight to that design ...
I just put new rods in mine that did nothing. I will do this fix to the old ones and transfer them. I looked for the dampening grease on Amazon and the epoxy is offered as an add on. I guess enough people are buying both so Amazon puts them together for you.
So I ordered the grease and epoxy. While waiting I took one of the old ones apart, the insert seemed sound, it was just dry with a small amount of grease inside the cap. When I got the grease I just squeeze grease in the bottom of the holder and some inside the cap. I did that to all four rods and pushed everything back together.
To make it easy I just replaced one rod at a time, my wife helped me tip the machine over to slide one out and slide the replacement back in. Works better then new. I will just store the epoxy and new rods in my garage in case I need them.
I forget what brand washer and dryer my parents have but I have to ask my mom to do my laundry for me because I do not have easy access to them currently .
However , my clothes , my black pants that I first noticed it on , have reddish brown stains on it. WHAT could be causing this???? Driving me mad since initially I thought it was the sunshine causing it to appear that way at first but no , even inside at normal light I can see streaks of these stains. I think one of my white tshirt has some of this staining too.
Please help me to get to the root cause of it. Hopefully it’s something I or another family member can remedy ourselves without having to call a service person.
If it comes off, then it is likely rust from somewhere along the water path. If it does not, it is likely a small amount of leftover bleach that isn't fully draining out of loads of white clothing.
@@zackstone6354 ugh…I hate front loading washers. Those gaskets get to smelling so disgusting and the junk left behind in the cranny (I don’t even know the proper name for it , lol).
Will non-chlorine bleach do the same thing ? I don’t think my mom uses bleach anymore but it’s possible she uses Oxyclean when she washes whites …
@@SleeplessinOC Typically, with black clothing, "staining" is something that removes pigment, not stains over the top of it. "Color safe bleach" can sometimes cause issues in black clothing under certain circumstances. Also, various acids can do it. If there was something particularly salty, or maybe citric acid spilled in there, or a half-dozen other things. Tough to say. Personally, I'm a fan of front-loaders. They last a LOT longer than the basin kind because of the direct drive mechanisms. However, yeah, that means they can also build up bacteria in certain spots that can be tough to clean out. Sometimes, you can get rid of the smell by running a load with old-fashioned bleach and an empty (or as nearly empty as it will let you) load right after it to clear any residual bleach.
It also seems like your mom quit using bleach probably because the washer didn't fully drain ... thus leaving some bleach behind to ruin things in the next load like you are seeing. I'd Google for common "draining" issues on that model of washer.
Love the beard
What about cylinder rubber stoppers in Shape of funnel.. most hardware store has them…
I wanted something that would fit into the "cup" that came on my model. I suppose that whole assembly could be replaced if you found one of those that fit on there tightly enough - assuming you could get it onto the rod without damaging it.
Any other grease or lubricant you can recommend, the one from the link doesn't ship where I am and I can't fond it at hardware stores
Unfortunately, no. But the thing you are looking for is called "damping grease" or sometimes "motion grease." It is a bit unusual to find in a hardware store, but perhaps an auto parts store would have something similar for hydraulics.
Try a non hardening plumbing thread sealant. Greaselike paste that might have teflon. Applied some on my OEM suspension rods so it would get into worn out bushings and it seems to help. Washer was shaking violently at start of spin cycle but if it could get past a certain speed it would stop shaking. The paste seemed to make just enough difference.
Got some of that grease boy it’s pricey.
Excuse me,
Where is the cat??
I’m trying to repair mine but the most important part of video went too fast with music. Don’t know if I should fill in with epoxy or solely on the rod and push it down using vise?
I would not "fill in" with the epoxy. It needs to be able to move against the rod. You might get a better perspective by watching the video that inspired me: ua-cam.com/video/IZZCwXEmGhE/v-deo.html
@@zackstone6354 Well, I managed to move them and filled in nicely with black plastic where the foam was. Almost made exact same thing. Now I gorged them with dampening grease. See how that works.
@@robertmunguia250 Best of luck! If you bought the big tube of grease, yes, it is spendy - especially considering you will only need about a spoonful, total. However, I still haven't had to re-grease mine, and I expected to need to do so, by now.
Appreciate the thrust of this and I know island life (Vieques, Puerto Rico) - you have to make do sometimes - but ppl don't have time to play games w/ that. The WasherDryerMoney guy said his hot glue solution stopped working after a month. There are many modules or components we buy for things from trucks to computers that are 'all of a piece' because drilling down to that one thing that fouled up is a worse option. I don't want to know if the piston or clutch assembly of my truck's AC compressor went out, I'm just going to order a new compressor. Same here. The linear dampener on all these models are different too. Here's a guy who knows all these connecting rod assemblies, he said GE were the only ones to get it right though the Samsung one is engineered well, probably second best:
1:55 mark
ua-cam.com/video/xmBJdpUfV-Q/v-deo.html
At the end of the day, you are paying for $$$ steel rod to get a tiny patch of grease. Up to you, but most folks would rather just fix it to work with their own patch of grease. I would say, "the steel rod doesn't go bad," but as you mention, "Island Life." Rust is real, and the rods CAN go bad quickly in marine environments if left to sit for a long time. But if you have a perfectly good looking steel rod, then it's probably fine. Just grease it.
They build it to break. I'm sure they can fix the design but they just dont want to.
That's what I think, too.
i have never ever enable adverts or monitization on any google account i have ever had
Just like a car. No damping oil in worn out shocks and they po-go.
That's exactly right!!!! One of the reasons I was laughing so hard once I figured it out: How has no one else seen this!?
🐐🏆🏆🏆🎖🎖🎖🎖🎖
Zach, I watched your video and also this one here: ua-cam.com/video/W3VE66YIWss/v-deo.html
I'm wondering if, instead of disassembling the cup and fashioning that additional piece from the SteelStik putty, why not just use a plastic collar clamp (as seen in the aforementioned video), in addition to using your suggestion of the 767A grease? I think the other video is onto something, but missing the relubricating with damping grease.
Thoughts?
I love it! I left a comment on his video. I may end up doing 2 rods that way and 2 rods my way on the next one - just to see which lasts longer. I'm a sucker for the simplicity of his approach, though. If you have white cups and clear grease, it should be fine to leave that so long as the grease still feels a bit "tacky." If the grease is yellow or brown, then I'd replace it. If you started with black grease (some rods I've seen do), then I'm not sure what would be best, there ...
I'm not sure how this method would work on the damper rod assemblies that do NOT have the extended "nipple" on the upper spring retainer "cap" for the metal collar to attach to?
Zack, nice job. After watching the video a few times while waiting for the grease to be delivered I developed a question. After making the bead of jb weld putty did you slide it up and down to make sure it did not stick to the rod? Also noticed you made a button head even though the original foam was just a tube, just curious why.
Yes: The point is that it has to be able to move, but it is the "limiter" in terms of grease flow between the bead and the rod. So, if it sticks, that's bad; it needs to move.
As to the button head, that was just the shape in the cup? I suppose I think it probably absorbs "shocks" a little better by distributing the "hit" over a wider area than the narrow bead, but if your "cup" only has a sleeve, that's probably fine.
The key to the whole mechanism is limiting the motion of the bead against the rod by limiting the amount of fluid that can pass in that very tight space. Air would not provide any significant resistance, so you get bouncing. A regular lubricant would also seek to REDUCE resistance, so something like "teflon" would turn it into a Bouncy House. The motion grease is meant to serve as a "speed limiter" - it can still move, but only "so much."
@@zackstone6354 made mine yesterday looks like it’s going to work but I wanted to let the epoxy cure over night before I installed.
Someone needs to remake this video and show this step by step without the drama .
Naaaah...you needed to cool down anyway.
Yo the string to hold it up is 200 iq lol. Learn somethin erryday
I have ordered new rods with the plan to go nuclear with the old ones. I intend to somehow incorporate hydraulic dampeners to permanently fix this issue. Maybe cut the rod and weld them on in place of the existing dampener...I don't know yet. I do know the current design is terrible.
take them rod and take them little rubber things out of there and put pantyhose in there rapid tight put the cap back on them. it'll work I've got about 60 loads on the machine was in there getting grease it or nothing just put the pantyhose in there and let it run and you'll put the pantyhose in there where you can still close the cap but wrap it tight
That's super interesting! In the case of the pantyhose, the energy is dissipated by the nylon's flexing instead of the fluid dynamics of the grease. I'm curious how long that lasts. I feel like my solution will last a little longer, but it will depend on how long it takes the pantyhose to break down vs. the motion grease ...
Please post a follow-up comment when you have to check it again! Mine has been going for 8 months now. This video getting over 10k views is hilarious to me, too. I knew it would get a lot of views, but I have to admit I still find it funny.
The video is a waste when a spring becomes weak in pressure stretch it out that will make it stronger and have a tighter bounce your welcome
Fascinated with a long story getting no where. My god where does this end. Get another brand washer problem solved.
i can tell how to fix your rod for only 40 cents
Ok sounds good ..
😂😂too fast
just email me
What’s your secret?
i wii show you
Thanks!!