Aand, there is stuff for every application! Thanks for the video I am working on an old water pump on a Hercules diesel engine. You have confirmed and I will use Permatex No.3 aviation sealant on the paper gaskets (once I get rid of the slathered-on RTV from the rebuild shop.)
Great video thanks , I have a Yamaha and I'm about to do a valve cover with a rubber gasket , it says to use three bond 1541c but I can't find that in the UK, could I use permatex gasket dressing 09974 instead to hold it in place or high tak permatex , or is there something closer to the three bond that would better you might recommend if poss please 👍🏼
Hi, I enjoyed your video. Would the shellac based gasket dressing work best with a cork valve cover gasket? I plan on using it on only one side to secure the cork gasket to the valve covers.
Great Video. I am here for the Aviation sealant for paper gaskets. Used it on my old VW 1600 case halves years ago. Looking back to the past and now the future with motorcycle paper gaskets.
I just rebuilt a diesel engine 50 miles ago and now its leaking badly from the front timing case. I got to pull the cam out to get to it so I decided to pull the whole engine and reseal everything, what is the best thing to use for the oil pan and front timing case ? So many conflicting opinions on this. I really want to have it last as long as possible.
That's a pretty vague question, there are so many possible combinations of metals and applications it's impossible to give a correct answer without more information.
@@MegaMarclar its a 12 valve Cummins cast iron block. Stamped steel oil pan. Front timing case is aluminum and read main seal housing is aluminum also.
@@offthehookdesignandfabdotc2582 okay so what I use on those is called aviation sealer It is a sticky brown goo. Unlike silicone it doesn't completely cure and stays malleable
Great Video. I am currently replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L. It is the stupidest design I have ever seen with 4 half circles (bumps) in the gasketing surface. This creates eight 90 degree vertical corner surfaces the gasket must interact with to seal properly. Anyway I think this is the first time they are being replaced. They installed them with silicone drop in each of these 8 corners. The gasket must have been rubber because it was brittle and broke apart in my hand. I purchased the Fel-Pro Silicone gasket replacements and am thinking about not applying silicone to these corners. Silicone is a pain in the ass to clean out of these corners btw. Would you agree with this decision? Autozone repair guide says to use Loctite 5999 in the corners, but perhaps that instruction was meant to work with OEM rubber gasket? I purchased Permatex 25228 for this purpose because Loctite 5999 seems to only come in large tubes, but thinking about not using it. Thoughts? Thank you!
Which liquid sealant to seal crankshaft sleeve is better quality than Permatex Aviation? cual sellador liquido para sellar sleeve crankshaft de mejor calidad que permatex aviacion?
How long do you let the Mopar AFT RTV set before torqueing bolts? I am rebuilding my NP231 in my XJ and the directions on the bottle don't specify an actual time and I want to avoid my tcase leaking like it did before from not letting the RTV I used set long enough before torqueing the bolts for the case halves.
as long as it takes to get the goo on the pan, bolt it down. in the dealer world we never let it sit, takes too much time. by the time the vehicle is on the ground its getting filled, and pulled out. I actually use a case sealer on tcases, since the 2 halfs are precision machined. but atf rtv will be fine just barely use any.
@@MegaMarclar roger that appreciate the reply. I let it sit a little longer than that but it seems to be holding up so far. What do you use for "case sealer"? In the event I get back into the thing down the road maybe I'll try that instead.
I came across your video-awesome info! I'm about to do a timing cover reseal on my parents' 2008 GMC Acadia. It developed a leak after the warranty period expired, and they've been dealing with it ever since. I was initially planning to reseal it with the OEM AC Delco RTV, but since it failed at 50K miles, I don't fully trust it. I was considering using Permatex Maxflex as an alternative. After watching your video, the Mopar and ThreeBond sealants seem like a good fit. However, I'm doing the job with the engine in the car, so I just want to make sure I can pull it off if I need to go back in 😂 Any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks
Prep has a lot to do with the longevity of the seal. 3 bond is the absolute way to go for actually sealing leaks, just make sure its not put on in gobs. It can suck to remove but thats a problem for future repair guy lol. Might be worth putting chains in it while the cover is off.
@@MegaMarclar Yes, I have the chains in mind and will be inspecting them. They hardly drive more than 6K a year on it, and so far, the engine is still running great. My dad is calling the shots on this one, and his stubborn mindset-'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'-overrules my suggestions about the chains 🤣. If we do change them out, I'm going with OEM chains. I'm super disappointed that Cloyes kits are being outsourced to China, and the quality has gone downhill. I keep reading and seeing videos of chains breaking within 5K miles. SMH. Anyhow appreciate your recommendation. I'll be picking some up. Thanks 👍
@@johnny4713ify almost everything is out of china these days. Getting quality parts is becoming an issue for every platform. However I will say the the chains in general are HUGE problem on those early 3.6 engines. Might want to get pops to do a bit of looking on his own, be s crappy deal to not change them and have one brake then youll be pulling the heads. Or looking at a reman motor.
@@MegaMarclar Agreed, but he has already looked into the pros and cons of it. On the plus side, it's the early 3.6 LY7 port-injected engine, so maybe that's why he hasn't had any issues with it so far. I'll be checking for chain stretch and have already warned him about the possibility. Like I said, they barely put any miles on it nowadays - just short trips to the grocery store and doctor appointments. The older they get, the fewer miles they put on it. 🤞 Hopefully, it should last them another 50K miles (5 years) if they don't sell it by then.
@@johnny4713ify what's funny is I just had a memory pop up of a 3.6 chain failure I did a year ago. But ya ultimately it's up to them, just a ton of work to get to the point of resealing the cover, bit more effort for that piece of mind.
Hey I don't think you are going to explain my application. I got a Timing Cover and water Pump on a 2001 ford ranger 3.0 Do I use Hi tack, Aviation, or permatex no. 2 on the paper gasket for the timing cover and water pump. I'm going to use RTV on the exposed Oil Pan gasket if it doesn't rip. Getting the the pan out seems like too much trouble. I'd appreciate it if you got to this question soon.
@@MegaMarclarYeah ended up watching your video its the greyish brown paper not the blue stuff. Couldn't find blue gaskets. I bought Hi tack but am not putting it back together until the timing chain gets here and my epoxy job is done. Every description says hi tack is silicone based, and so is rtv so not sure if it will act completely different. Thanks for responding, let me know if it matters if I use Hi tack or I go out and get permatex no. 3, or just use permatex #2 I already have.
@@MegaMarclar This job has been done before on this 3.0 Vulcan engine, so I don't want it to go bad again. The oil pan gasket I was counting on being factory was aftermarket and it ripped. I found dissimilar and one missing bolt. Telling me the engine has been pulled out of this ford ranger and this job was done before. it appears the gasket that was put on last time was put on dry and the face around the coolant passage is a little rough so I'm going to smooth it out with high temp epoxy. 2001 Ford Ranger XLT I think with the spring suspension, I don't have an engine lift.
Thankyou, for videos like this is why i learn english (im mexican), i try yo be More profesional than other people and learn about everithing, almost nobody takes the Time for learn
Just came here to say that I only associate with people who, like me, LOVE the smell of Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket. It’s the mechanics equivalent of smelling burnt gunpowder.
I feel like you are very angry at me, even though I have only used the proper sealant all my life.
Aand, there is stuff for every application!
Thanks for the video
I am working on an old water pump on a Hercules diesel engine.
You have confirmed and I will use Permatex No.3 aviation sealant on the paper gaskets (once I get rid of the slathered-on RTV from the rebuild shop.)
absolutely, it is mostly marketing. RTV does NOT fix everything as permatex would have you believe.
Great video thanks , I have a Yamaha and I'm about to do a valve cover with a rubber gasket , it says to use three bond 1541c but I can't find that in the UK, could I use permatex gasket dressing 09974 instead to hold it in place or high tak permatex , or is there something closer to the three bond that would better you might recommend if poss please 👍🏼
I'd probably use a grey rtv. Designed for high vibration application like Honda bond
We like people who explain things instead of saying they are right, this guy right here will never be second guessed by me
lol, wow. Overall excellent information, the presentation was from pure frustration….breath. Wrench on my friend.
Ya.. so much old, obsolete information in the industry still fueled by companies that want to sell products.
Hi, I enjoyed your video. Would the shellac based gasket dressing work best with a cork valve cover gasket? I plan on using it on only one side to secure the cork gasket to the valve covers.
yes, or aviation sealer types. NO rtv
Great Video. I am here for the Aviation sealant for paper gaskets. Used it on my old VW 1600 case halves years ago. Looking back to the past and now the future with motorcycle paper gaskets.
yep, rtv is mostly a marketing scheme. aviation sealer works amazingly.
Great vid. For a paper gasket sandwiched between a water pump and a backing plate that bolts to the pump housing what would you reco?
Depends on the type of paper, but I prefer aviation sealer
I just rebuilt a diesel engine 50 miles ago and now its leaking badly from the front timing case. I got to pull the cam out to get to it so I decided to pull the whole engine and reseal everything, what is the best thing to use for the oil pan and front timing case ?
So many conflicting opinions on this.
I really want to have it last as long as possible.
That's a pretty vague question, there are so many possible combinations of metals and applications it's impossible to give a correct answer without more information.
@@MegaMarclar its a 12 valve Cummins cast iron block.
Stamped steel oil pan.
Front timing case is aluminum and read main seal housing is aluminum also.
@@offthehookdesignandfabdotc2582 should be gaskets,. Not just a sealer. The gasket you use determines what sealer, if any is used.
@@MegaMarclar I got a brand new factory Cummins gasket set. These are all the paper type fiber gaskets.
@@offthehookdesignandfabdotc2582 okay so what I use on those is called aviation sealer It is a sticky brown goo. Unlike silicone it doesn't completely cure and stays malleable
Great Video. I am currently replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L. It is the stupidest design I have ever seen with 4 half circles (bumps) in the gasketing surface. This creates eight 90 degree vertical corner surfaces the gasket must interact with to seal properly. Anyway I think this is the first time they are being replaced. They installed them with silicone drop in each of these 8 corners. The gasket must have been rubber because it was brittle and broke apart in my hand. I purchased the Fel-Pro Silicone gasket replacements and am thinking about not applying silicone to these corners. Silicone is a pain in the ass to clean out of these corners btw. Would you agree with this decision? Autozone repair guide says to use Loctite 5999 in the corners, but perhaps that instruction was meant to work with OEM rubber gasket? I purchased Permatex 25228 for this purpose because Loctite 5999 seems to only come in large tubes, but thinking about not using it. Thoughts? Thank you!
I use grey or black in the corners. Just a dab on each. Ya they didn't think that one through very well but the 3.5s didn't have many issues
Cual sellador liquido para sellar sleeve crankshaft?
Which liquid sealant to seal crankshaft sleeve is better quality than Permatex Aviation?
cual sellador liquido para sellar sleeve crankshaft de mejor calidad que permatex aviacion?
sleeve retainer, green stuff
Great information..learned alot.
How long do you let the Mopar AFT RTV set before torqueing bolts? I am rebuilding my NP231 in my XJ and the directions on the bottle don't specify an actual time and I want to avoid my tcase leaking like it did before from not letting the RTV I used set long enough before torqueing the bolts for the case halves.
as long as it takes to get the goo on the pan, bolt it down. in the dealer world we never let it sit, takes too much time. by the time the vehicle is on the ground its getting filled, and pulled out. I actually use a case sealer on tcases, since the 2 halfs are precision machined. but atf rtv will be fine just barely use any.
@@MegaMarclar roger that appreciate the reply. I let it sit a little longer than that but it seems to be holding up so far. What do you use for "case sealer"? In the event I get back into the thing down the road maybe I'll try that instead.
I came across your video-awesome info! I'm about to do a timing cover reseal on my parents' 2008 GMC Acadia. It developed a leak after the warranty period expired, and they've been dealing with it ever since. I was initially planning to reseal it with the OEM AC Delco RTV, but since it failed at 50K miles, I don't fully trust it. I was considering using Permatex Maxflex as an alternative. After watching your video, the Mopar and ThreeBond sealants seem like a good fit. However, I'm doing the job with the engine in the car, so I just want to make sure I can pull it off if I need to go back in 😂 Any recommendation would be appreciated. Thanks
Prep has a lot to do with the longevity of the seal. 3 bond is the absolute way to go for actually sealing leaks, just make sure its not put on in gobs. It can suck to remove but thats a problem for future repair guy lol. Might be worth putting chains in it while the cover is off.
@@MegaMarclar Yes, I have the chains in mind and will be inspecting them. They hardly drive more than 6K a year on it, and so far, the engine is still running great. My dad is calling the shots on this one, and his stubborn mindset-'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'-overrules my suggestions about the chains 🤣. If we do change them out, I'm going with OEM chains. I'm super disappointed that Cloyes kits are being outsourced to China, and the quality has gone downhill. I keep reading and seeing videos of chains breaking within 5K miles. SMH. Anyhow appreciate your recommendation. I'll be picking some up. Thanks 👍
@@johnny4713ify almost everything is out of china these days. Getting quality parts is becoming an issue for every platform. However I will say the the chains in general are HUGE problem on those early 3.6 engines.
Might want to get pops to do a bit of looking on his own, be s crappy deal to not change them and have one brake then youll be pulling the heads. Or looking at a reman motor.
@@MegaMarclar Agreed, but he has already looked into the pros and cons of it. On the plus side, it's the early 3.6 LY7 port-injected engine, so maybe that's why he hasn't had any issues with it so far. I'll be checking for chain stretch and have already warned him about the possibility. Like I said, they barely put any miles on it nowadays - just short trips to the grocery store and doctor appointments. The older they get, the fewer miles they put on it. 🤞 Hopefully, it should last them another 50K miles (5 years) if they don't sell it by then.
@@johnny4713ify what's funny is I just had a memory pop up of a 3.6 chain failure I did a year ago. But ya ultimately it's up to them, just a ton of work to get to the point of resealing the cover, bit more effort for that piece of mind.
Hey I don't think you are going to explain my application.
I got a Timing Cover and water Pump on a 2001 ford ranger 3.0
Do I use Hi tack, Aviation, or permatex no. 2 on the paper gasket for the timing cover and water pump.
I'm going to use RTV on the exposed Oil Pan gasket if it doesn't rip. Getting the the pan out seems like too much trouble.
I'd appreciate it if you got to this question soon.
It depends on the type of paper what you put on it
@@MegaMarclarYeah ended up watching your video its the greyish brown paper not the blue stuff. Couldn't find blue gaskets. I bought Hi tack but am not putting it back together until the timing chain gets here and my epoxy job is done. Every description says hi tack is silicone based, and so is rtv so not sure if it will act completely different. Thanks for responding, let me know if it matters if I use Hi tack or I go out and get permatex no. 3, or just use permatex #2 I already have.
@@MegaMarclar This job has been done before on this 3.0 Vulcan engine, so I don't want it to go bad again. The oil pan gasket I was counting on being factory was aftermarket and it ripped. I found dissimilar and one missing bolt. Telling me the engine has been pulled out of this ford ranger and this job was done before. it appears the gasket that was put on last time was put on dry and the face around the coolant passage is a little rough so I'm going to smooth it out with high temp epoxy. 2001 Ford Ranger XLT I think with the spring suspension, I don't have an engine lift.
Thankyou, for videos like this is why i learn english (im mexican), i try yo be More profesional than other people and learn about everithing, almost nobody takes the Time for learn
so what do i use ?
depends on the application, environment, materials used
Just came here to say that I only associate with people who, like me, LOVE the smell of Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket. It’s the mechanics equivalent of smelling burnt gunpowder.
Mopar threebond is gnarly stuff
Oh ya.. When we first started doing work on the pentastar engines, there were some we had to heat up with a torch to get it to break free.
@@MegaMarclar great video.👍 Very informative
Mopar is the bomb. Check out project farm. Blew everything else away.
ya I commented on that video. Still depends on the application on what you use.
Word of the day a-p-p-l-i-c-a-t-i-o-n