For everyone commenting about their "30 year ase" test passing ability, the OEM dealership training facilities (and manufacturers that have to build vehicles to not leak during the warranty period, where they have to fix it for free) have a different opinion. ASE is not a training facility. It's a test. Like a driving test. And we all know how many morons there are on the road.... The point is.. do what you feel you need to do.. all I'm saying, is I've made a pretty good living fixing these leaks... and 85% are "repairs" that have used silicone versus the manufacturer's procedure....
I have used gaskets sealers on about every repair until now. I just replaced the water pump on my Taurus and used blue RTV sealer and less that a week after I replace it, its spraying water everywhere. I have used black RTV sealer and don't seem to have any problem just the blue. I think I will try it this time without any sealer and pray it works. The gaskets are not expensive but I don't like to fix something but once. This is the first time I've had one fail but it it fails one time that's one time to many.
@@alensley1368 there are other types of "gasket sealers" such as "permatex super 300" which is not silicone based, does not dry out, and stays malleable to 425* Here is s snippet directly from permatex websight. 10. Using a gasket maker as a dressing on a conventional gasket. This might be the most common gasketing error of all. Many mechanics will use an RTV gasket maker to hold a conventional or cut gasket in place during assembly. Some mechanics will even use the RTV gasket maker as a dressing, coating both sides of the gasket. Gasket makers are the wrong product for these applications - their formulations are too thick for use as a dressing. If you’re installing a conventional gasket, use a gasket sealant - they’re available in sprays, liquids, and tubes, with specialized formulas for a variety of applications. www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
@rickkrockstar i think so too, also possibly not the right kind. I just installed a water pump on 2012 elantra 1.8 L and used a thin layer of permatex "2 make a gasket sealant" on each side of the gasket, its similar to aviation sealant but is said to withstand gasoline and other auto fluids. No leaks yet 🤞I highly recommend it, at least with paper gaskets
I just feel like if you’re going to use rtv then just use it alone. I’ve done both where I’ve had a paper gasket and rtv at the same time and it worked out fine. When you mix both together it’s just an unnecessary step and more work/money. My theory: if the surface is near perfect (not scratched or any imperfections) then use a paper gasket. If it has imperfections then use rtv to fill the gaps
Often parts designed for a gasket need the extra spacing provided by a gasket to function as intended. Using gasket maker or other stand alone flange sealant will change clearances. Same goes the other way, using a gasket where a liquid sealant was the design parameter. There are sealers for closely machined surfaces and sealers for gap filling, sealers for high pressures (like 20,000psi), those for high flex or thermal strain, or specific chemical and temperature resistance, pre-applied verses applied at assembly. Generally the manufacturer has done some research and testing in the matter, though admittedly in the case of many consumer items like cars that research often favors the needs of the original assembly line, or possibly high volume dealer, rather than individual field repair and restoration decades later.
I always put a thin layer of silicon on a paper gasket. Never had a leak. Always use good quality Loctite high temp silicon and not the cheap stuff. Not worth doing a job twice.
Used rtv and similar for years, NEVER had it leak! trouble is people use rtv sealant wrong most times, put it on, just finger tighten the bolts/nuts, then after an hour torque it up! then don't re fill liquids/fluids for 24hrs, it does say on the packaging how to use it! most people put it on fill and go, it won't work! it works fine if you use it properly! 30 years ago used to use red stag plumbing compound on head gaskets when times were hard and couldn't afford a new gasket! a dad trick that worked! it does work fine if done properly!
I performed many repairs in my 1944 WC 51 many years ago. Many of them were gasket replacement, which I did according to reprinted era manual from Portrayal Press. Excellent reproduction manuals if you ask me. Well, in those manuals you found detailed instructions about how to install or make a gasket and proper torque. I don't think back then cars were leaking oil everywhere since sealant was not invented yet. I performed the gasket replacement using the 1944 method explained in manual and they never failed. Eventually sold that vehicle and bought a newer one in which still use the practice of DONT USE SEALANT IN PAPER GASKET. I still found the same results: no leaking. I found no reason yet to change that practice since EVIDENCE tells I'm right
Not questioning your experience but The thing is IF SEALANT IS NECESSARY IN PAPER GASKET...why it doesn't leak when paper gasket is used according to manuals instructions? Pure luck?
@@enterBJ40 follow the video in the description you'll see that there's tens of thousands of possible variations. There's a dozen different papers and 5 dozen different "sealers"... There's no blanket solution for everything. Most are marketing.
2012 elantra 1.8 L just bought a new OE aftermarket pump, the paper gasket comes with instructions and demands applying sealant on both sides of the gasket before installing. Even specificies to do so only on paper gaskets and and in the case of rubber gasket to rather apply a silicone grease instead. Ive seen alot of diy youtubers installing it dry. I really dont know where to look for a good answer on this.
@MegaMarclar its a black paper gasket, almost looks like felt. Anyway i ended up buying permatex "2 make a gasket sealant" seems very similar to aviation selant but with added protection against gasoline and other auto fluids. I only put a thin layer on each side of the gasket (as per instructions) installed 2 days ago and still not leaking. Thanks for your input man, im still interested on knowing your opinion on this. Cheers bro! Happy holidays!
Used RTV on my water pump and intake manifold gaskets on my 87 Monte Carlo 23 years ago and NO LEAKS in 2021! However I do understand what your saying. It’s just the way an old timer taught me when I was a kid.
@@MegaMarclarhow about the front and back of the intake of a 305 Chevy small black? I use to always get leaks when I used the rub tabs that came with the intake gasket kits. Later GM started using nothing but silicone instead.
I have a question. I put RTV on the pump itself a d the the gasket no silicone in the block and when the temp gets hot its leaking bad . Is this because i did both?
Crap. I just fixed the water pump gasket on my 99 dodge again. I tried using no silicone and it lasted 6 months. I used silicone on both sides of the gasket last time and it lasted 3 years. Usually i have to replace the gasket once a year. I used permatex water pump and thermostat housing gasket maker today and after installing realized it said rtv. Permatex says its for water pumps, do you think this is right?
@@MegaMarclar i did notice my tensioner arm is not holding good tension at all i wonder if that could cause it or maybe the block is warped. Or if it is due to aftermarket pump? I never go with the cheap ones and i use felpro gaskets. Who knows a mopar gasket might do the trick. Thanks for the tip!!
I am about to put a new motorcraft water pump on a 2001 ford ranger.I am not sure what type of gasket it is.Ive watched videos of the install process and some people put sealer on and some dont so im confused as to what to do.
Hello, Thank you for your video. If I well understand The paper gasket is enough. So i don't add any type of isolatation material do i? How does not leak the coolant out from the water pump with paper gasket. can you explain it? thank you in advanced.
I've used RTV on paper gaskets for many years...and never had any leaks. The trick I do is I wait a few days before I start the engine to give the RTV enough time to harden up.
@@midos67channel24 that blue paper is silicon impregnated, doesn't require any additional sealers. This is the reason these leak down the road. Silicone will stick to any surface, except it's self. If you were going to use anything on that application it would be aviation sealer.
Thing I always wondered is why people would use the paper gasket anyways if they're using RTV. To me it feels a bit double, like putting a wheels under a wheel to move it. The only time when I used RTV was when there was no gasket to begin with. If there is one, I simply use that and it has always worked fine.
Yeah see that was all due to marketing from fill pro back in the '90s. Silicone everything. The thing is that you're supposed to use aviation sealer on paper gaskets, not rtV
Mine keeps leaking I have bought 2 water pump gaskets and they both were melted or worn after using them for a while, noticed it was still leaking from a bolt side, it was not leaking all around just around the bolt, does a metal gasket make any difference or just using rtv gasket maker ? It’s a 2010 camaro 3.6
So confused. Great video changing thermostat on 94 Wrangler have a new housing, was going to use the blue fel-co gasket. Not sure if I should any sealant. Did the valve cover with a reusable felco and didn’t use sealer and hasn’t leaked yet.
Blue paper has silicone impregnated into it and does not require any additional sealers. If you were going to use anything you would use a spray high-tack, or aviation sealer. See the video in the description for more information
@@MegaMarclar thanks I looked at repair manual and it’s just gasket so that’s what I’m going to do. I feel a lot of the times people have leaks on new gasket is because they do not tighten to torque specs
@@patrickab01 well there are about 25 different types of gasket material paper. Most of the time people have problems with it because if they use blue paper that has silicone in it and they put silicone on it they do not stick together. Suicone will stick to any surface known to man except for itself. So what that being said you have to be aware of what materials you're using and apply the sealers accordingly. The whole thing with the blue paper was that it did not need any sealers at all It was sort of a revolutionary technology designed by felpro many many years ago.
@@MegaMarclar I ended up using a felpro blue paper ,, no sealant, set to manuals torque setting. Ran it for a while got it up to temps with no leaks. Haven’t driven it yet Will see if all holds after driving it for a bit
@@patrickab01 those thermostat housings are famous for warping and also being pitted. If it does end up dripping a little bit I would suggest replacing the whole housing. I actually stock those here in the shop because I replaced them so frequently
When the metals are similar(eg steel on steel or iron) and the heat is evened out by the enclosed environment you will not have the issue with thermal expansion, both will expand at basically the same rate putting no shear strain on the flange sealant. With aluminum against iron/steel the difference is about 6-7 ten thou per 100f; iron and steel expand ~6.5 ten thou and aluminum expands ~13 ten thou per 100f; copper alloys are between at 9-11 ten thou, titaniums are only about 5 ten thou, lead zinc tin and magnesium are 13-16 ten thou. I swear most people are at least partially illiterate, they act like reading the label, let alone TDS, will cost them a first born child. When reusing good condition paper gaskets(yes this can be appropriate for certain old timey projects.) I wilI tend to favor gasket dressings for dressing paper gaskets; These usually thicken but stay somewhat plasticly deformable(flow under force) such as high-tack, gaskacinch, or even non-hardening permatex gasket maker(No2 or aviation-3, or maybe even 300, these are great on threads). Hell I've even had good luck using Indian-head gasket shellac to cement a motorcycle valve cover in place when the o-ring based seal had gone bad and some threads were in need of an insert,(prior owner tried over tightening rather than replacing the o-ring.) now I was on the road in small town timbukto, but it held on an air cooled engine head for over a month of daily riding until I made it home ordered the o-ring and had the threads repaired. The cover and head were both cast aluminum. Shellac is soluble in straight alcohol for cleanup, but resistant to both petroleum and water. Separate from all that, there are different types of RTV for good reason, some are stiff(grey) and some are very pliable(red).
Finally someone who gets it. Lol. I've been the enemy of the state since I posted this video, because everyone Is an expert that used rtv one time and had no issues.
This may be true if you are using a high quality OEM gaskets, most people use the aftermarket gaskets that are low quality. I used the gasket supplied with the water pump, did not use any sealant and used an inch pound wrench per the service guide, a year later the gasket was leaking and it took me five hours to replace the gasket. Used Ultra Grey RTV and no leaks in over ten years.. Don't allow RTV to dry before tightening the bolts, it simply seals the paper fibers... RTV works well if used properly, easy to remove compared to adhesive products.
That's because you didn't use the right sealant. Gotta remember that rtv at one time wasnt all over the shelfs in stores and didn't have mass marketing.
You can use straight silicone if you want it to leak and have to do it again. My suggestion is to replace it with whatever came off of It from the factory
I’m replacing the fuel pump on a 350 engine. I’m getting a fel pro gasket for the mounting plate and the pump. Then I should not use gasket sealer on the gaskets correct? Thanks for the info
@@JC7318 good deal. A+ for doing research first instead of wandering away at leaks later. The thing about silicone is it will stick to pretty much any surface on the planet except for itself. So when you put silicone on a silicone paper gasket they always leak because there's no actual bond
I'm up changing my water pump on my 2000 Ford Taurus for the 4th time. First time just a gasket. Fail. Second time red silicone RTV Permatex plus gasket too much my fault. Fail. Third time thin layer Permatex number 2 sealant and paper gasket, but I didn't spread it around with my finger. Fail. At 4 hours a pop this is beginning to piss me off. I figure I'm taking off the tire, spraying the area with carburetor cleaner, and sanding it all down, before reapplying and torquing to specks. The only question is do I use red RTV alone or the paper gasket with the number 2? And if I use the number 2 do I only put it on the side of the water pump? Or do I do the thin layer rubbed on both sides with my finger? The 4th time frustrations. What can I say... not even my first water pump, but this one's got me by the grapes.
For starters the waterpumps never came with silicon on them from the factory, just straight gasket. I would never use red / Orange on any paper gasket. Different types of silicone are design for different applications. The orange / red stuff always leak when they come in contact with oil or coolant for the most part. If you absolutely have to use silicone I would use black or gray. But in your particular application I would start by cleaning the surface as well as possible with a wire brush, the using brake parts cleaner to remove all signs of coolant and oil. I would then use permatex high-tack. It's a spray on sticky "sealer" that allows the gasket to stick to the water pump but still allows it to move freely. Spray a thin coat onto your water pump and on to the water pump side of the paper gasket. Let it dry for a minute until it gets sticky didn't put the paper gasket on to the water pump and install it. The problem with silicone is that it's effectively a glue and doesn't allow for expansion and contraction.
The biggest reason for RTV sealing failures is due to dirty / oily surfaces. Using ultra grey RTV on coolant system surfaces that have been thoroughly cleaned and de-greased will work perfectly every time! Additionally, I always prep the surfaces with an abrasive disk, even the new parts before cleaning.
So what does he say about the OEMs nowadays using some sort of RTV or similar sealant to seal timing covers, oil pans etc? My Hyundai used RTV on the oil pan from the factory. I had to change the pan because my old man god bless him took the car to a quick lube place and they stripped the threads on the drain plug. I had to replace the pan (pan was only $20 on Amazon). Instead of RTV I made a Garloc gasket and so far so good........I decided to make a gasket only because i had the know how and the material to do it and thought why not. Guess we'll see........
on a precision machined surface a bead of RTV is fine, as long as its the right kind. This video was more specifically targeting those that put RTV on paper which is not designed for that application. Most modern vehicles have moved away from gaskets on hard engine parts like pans and timing covers to make them cheaper to manufacture. The biggest issue there is the people working on them use WAAAAAY too much sealer. Doesn't take much at all.
It depends on the application, there is no one size fits all solution... Check the vid description for the follow up video that talks about what to use, when
Never use blue for anything that will contact any fluid. Blue will leak everytime guaranteed ...And it also depends on the type of paper gasket what sealer to use.. check the video in the description.
I replaced my Prius water pump with no additional gasket sealant and its been running 2 years with no leaks. Ford after market water pump on Galaxy Mk3 states that you need to smear sealant on the paper gasket. What to do?
I've used those for oil pumps, and high clamping force areas many times. But coolant will leech thru the paper over time, even with aviation sealer because of the 2 types of cardboard pressed together. In a pinch it would work but long term I'd get the real gasket for it
@@MegaMarclar gaskets were discontinued like 20 years ago... what other material can I cut out? It had red RTV on there in the past... took it off because I thought it was leaking (it actually wasnt it was just the rusted coolant tube next to it). Maybe I'll go back with the red high temp RTV again... its just a pain to work with where its located. Maybe I can apply it and let it dry first? Should it go on both surfaces or just one surface? I wish I knew what kind of gasket the stock one was... isn't a thermostat gasket just cardboard? I would think it would be fine...
@@MegaMarclar it's a 1.0 liter 3 cyilnder Suzuki G10 block with the coveted and very rare Turbo head from 1987. Parts for this thing are completely extinct. I've had to macgyver a full rebuild for it. The coolant pipe had a hole in it so I just slid some rubber hose over it and clamped it. Fixed. Other than the leak it runs AMAZING. The turbo is cooled 3 ways: coolant, oil, and the propane that I have running thru it. It spins at about 250-300k rpm so it needs the cooling trust me lol
I reviewed your video it makes sense, the expansion and contraction of the two components. I just got done replacing the thermostat gasket on my 1992 Ford 5.0 V8. I used rtv and yes it leaked for the very reasons you explained in the video. This time I used gasgacinch which coats the paper gasket with a thin layer of the product, you let it dry for a few minutes before attaching the gasket to the housing, then the housing with the gasket to the intake manifold. I applied a thin layer onto the intake manifold, waited 3 minutes then carefully placed the housing on the manifol and started the bolts. Did the leak check, NO leaks!!! Thanks for posting this very important explanation, on why you don't want to use rtv.
thanks for the comment. There IS a difference between 'gasket sealer' and 'rtv "gasket sealer" ' the marketing teams have allowed millions of sales in products and re-repairs. Sometimes you have to go back to the roots of the old timers, and how they did it.
I changed a rear differential cover and I just used the paper gasket,did I need to put on silicone or anything else on it!?.... because I didn't do that!...sorry for my ignorance but I don't know but I torqued the screws to what the manual said to torque them to.
Most of the time you will be fine. They used paper gaskets for many years. A lot of modern applications actually just use straight rtv from the factory. No matter which route you go, they all leak eventually.
My ford 1997 Taurus has in the shop manual using Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-1 9B508-AA (ES R-M 11 P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A and I can't find it anywhere. I'm not sure to apply it or not.
the trim adhesive is what they use to hold window seals and stuff on, all it is is a sticky glue that holds the gasket in place. it has no affect on the sealing surface. you can use hi-tack, or just stick the gasket on and hold it there.
I’ve always used on paper, cork, rubber, etc. Permatex® High Tack™ Spray-A-Gasket™ Sealant. coat both sides of gasket, let sit for a bit then apply and torque to specs, works great.
Would Permatex Aviation sealant 80019 be similar to the spray but in brush on? I believe they are similar but one is spray and 80019 brush. Basically it’s just a thin tacky layer to aid assembly.
@@MegaMarclar 2010 Infiniti FX35, part number is 23797-JA10B i already ordered and will install this coming week but was wondering if i needed RTV. Thanks for taking out the time to reply!
@@DTUFINOPhotography okay that type of gasket is a stamped preformed seal. A lot of the times they have a very thin coating on them I'm not sure exactly what it is but those type of seals are installed dry with no other sealers. All you got to do is clean both surfaces and make sure it's torqued correctly, that's it.
what about a timing cover gasket that deals with both oil and coolant? what would you suggest? 2001 buick century custom 3.1l v6. i have a coolant leak from the timing cover gasket which uses the standard felpro type of paper gasket. i will be diving into this repair soon. thanks.
Personally I always install them dry, just like the factory. On those there are 2 holes where coolant flows through (iirc). You could use some hi-tac to attach it to the timing cover prior to install. It allows the gasket to move as heat expands the metals. Unlike silicone where it creates a path for fluid to travel past.. Just like everything it's your preference. Consider how the factory built the engine in the interest of longevity and lasting through the warranty period. If the factory thought that it would need silicone to seal they would have put it on it.
I used RTV on paper gaskets many times and never had a leak; I use it only to hold the gasket in place while I do the istallation if you don't use something it falls of and there is a chance of damaging the gasket.
I've found most people use about 20x too much. A see thru skimming is all that's needed. Sometimes silicone helps to hold the gasket in place also if the mating surface is scratched or damaged in any way silicone has it covered. After having a water pump on a v6 mitsi leak thru the paper gasket after 7 hours of removing shit to get to it......never again shall a gasket be left unglued. I've also done a water pump on a Honda that was missing a bolt from the pump! It wasn't leaking from the seam it was buggered in the bearing but the silicone had been holding up the slack for God knows how long. There is a knack to silicone like any other product. Less than 1mm coating is all that's needed, some dudes lay it on like they would toothpaste on a brush😧
People also confuse "gasket sealer" for rtv. Old school gasket sealer is not rtv. Just because they print it on the package doesnt mean that is what it is. Honda also uses O-rings which are much more forgiving with missing Fasteners than a standard paper or plastic gasket
@@MegaMarclar it seems to be no matter what tube of goo ya buy the packets all say 100% silicone somewhere on the back 🤣🤣. It's more a marketing/pricing thing I think. You can buy a small maybe 50g tube of gasket silicone for like $20 or a $5 400g tube of bathroom silicone here. They feel, look, smell and taste the same to me. I've used bathroom silicone on sumps before with no leaks even over a period of several years it's still dry. Some of the parts we get here are Chinese knockoffs and the gaskets you get with them sometimes don't even line up with the bloody bolt holes even and you have to blade a little extra out here and there. Over the years I've repaired more paper gaskets than had things leaking glued up with silicone. If ya wanna be a real prick tho go for the sikaflex rubberized bonder/sealer🤣🤣. That shit never lets go.....even for 3 screwdrivers a hammer and vicegrips😂🤣😁🤣😂
I bought a water pump for 1977 Toyota 20R engine. Got a light sort of cardboard/paper gasket. So I should NOT USE SILICONE OR SEALANT RIGHT? Install NO SILICONE..... PLEASE can U tell ..... UA-cam & other Auto parts stores advise differing things. Very frustrating........as a woman.
@@lindaleehulsey3167 I would use permatex aviation sealer. It's a thick dark brown goo. It's what they would have used back then. It doesn't harden or cure like silicon does which is the major problem that people run into. It's really sticky and basically acts like Elmer's glue for the paper. I would recommend using rubber gloves when you put it on just basically paint a thin layer on each side of the paper and stick it on
I'm replacing thermostat on my old tractor. It definitely had a paper gasket but the new thermostat came with a seal. Do you have any idea if I need to use the thermostat seal also or just the paper gasket. The old thermostat so old I can't tell if it had a seal on it.
@@justinw123 it is probably an updated design and as long as you can get everything tight, and the surface is clean and does not have a ton of pitting, I would just use the rubber gasket on the thermostat itself. This is how all modern cars are all manufactured.
@@justinw123 no worries you may want to contact manufacturer just to double triple make sure if you have any doubts. Remember that my advice goes just from your description and I have no idea what the actual application looks like.
MY OLD ONE DID NOT HAVE IT FROM THE FACTORY, i DID NOT PUT SEALANT ON THE NEW ONE. lol i was just having this discussion with some one that was watching put the pulley back on, commented that my shit was going to leak and I was going to have to re do it all again LOL. i don't think i will however. If they didn't have it factory, why then would you think you should seal it up? anyway. great video.
Larry Leisuresuit Well, did it leak? I’m bet it did . Mine had some black goo from the factory. Looking for what is considered best for sealing a water pump right now to put the new one in with.
@@srocks-uj2ip No it has not. I'm not sure why I missed this reply, some one else just replied and I saw yours above it. 100% all good though. 94 mazda B3000 ( Ford ranger ) 4x4 manual shift with the crap 3.0L ( wish it was a 4 liter.)
I always look at it logically. If your paper gasket needs silicon rtv then the manufacturer should use silicon gaskets. I find paper gaskets all over tractors and the only leaks are when people overfill the fluid levels. The old " if it calls for five quarts I'm putting in six quarts to be safe " people.
two beer everybody has their own way of doing things. personally over the last 15 years of my career I have seen more paper gaskets fail from Silicon than any other gasket failure. I can't think of any manufacturer that recommends silicone in a paper gasket in a service manual.
Never had a paper gasket leak, until today! Solution? Paper gasket and a thin film covered over the hole paper gasket. Then finger thigh, currently wait it to dry. Then i probably tight it up
@@MegaMarclarare you letting it cure? I know mechanics don’t have time for that, but that’s probably why that’s happening. I’ve used paper gaskets and RTV sealer for over 25 years and I have had good luck with that combo.
My water pump came with replacement gaskets.old metal with little tiny oring kinda deal to new fibor gaskets.I also wonder about sealer can't find anything on adding sealer so I'm with you not going to use it.
MegaMarclar Thank you for your prompt response. I’m using Permatex Gasket Maker #22071 on my 85’ 5.0’s new thermostat housing. I’ve been using paper gaskets. But they keep leaking. At this point, I’m just going to try the gasket maker alone and see what happens.
@@bkborn74 is there pitting on the housing or on the intake? Also it makes a difference what side the gasket goes on.. iirc theres a machined recess on the intake where th tstat sits.. right?
i like using RTV with paper gaskets, it soaks into the paper and makes a silicon/rubber gasket out of paper(applied to both sides). follow the instructions, completely dry, thin coating/small beat, finger tighten, wait for however long is recommended(think an hr), then do final torque. fill with fluids after cure, generally 24hrs. i've really only used this on paper gaskets on crankcase covers on motorcycles, but it sealed so well i could run it with the bolts removed(just as a test) and needed a sledge and wood block to beat it off.... i'd say it sealed well.. (however, this was paper/rtv, literally turns a paper gasket into a modern rubber/silicone version)
It can work in some applications. But your assessment of "turning it into a modern rubber" gasket is not accurate. But I'm glad it worked in your situation.
Would you recommend 80062 permatex high tack gasket sealant? I understand RTV isn't the way to go, but looking for something to hold gasket in place for assembly (for a water pump)
Great, thanks for the replies. Guy at the part store tried to sell me some RTV to add with the paper gasket and I was skeptical. Glad I saw your video!
I literally just got done replacing my thermostat and I used blue rtv silicone with a paper gasket. Literally still have silicone on my fingers goddammit
If silicone was recommended by the manufacturer, wouldn't they include a small tube as well as the paper gasket? I haven't seen any (in my admittedly small experience) that do.
Not really .. cost savings, profit margins,.. most of these problems with the gaskets come down to people just not understanding how the system works. Years and years of propaganda by companies like permatex and felpro have let people to believe that silicone is a 100% fix all solution to everything. People could not be bothered to spend 5 minutes to do research to find out what exactly they're supposed to use.
If you do not use RTV on a paper gasket, IT WILL LEAK! Seen it too many times. Always coat the paper gasket with a layer of RTV, by hand, that's suited for the application before installing it.
@@MegaMarclar You can't be serious... Pick up most paper gasket kits and they come with a small tube of RTV. It's "paper". If it comes into contact with coolant or oil, it will slowly seep thru the gasket or thru any imperfections on the mating surfaces. That's what RTV is for. Take the gasket, apply a thin coat of RTV to both sides of the gasket with the tips of your fingers. You must be new to working on cars or something. Years ago, auto makers always used RTV on the pan gaskets(back when they were cork), valve cover gaskets, thermostat gaskets, timing cover, etc.
@@MegaMarclar And if you want an example, look up a timing cover gasket kit for a SB ford. Not that crap 4.6L and newer shit. Look up one for a 289/302/351 windsor. Should come with thread sealant and RTV. I'm staring at the picture of one right now. Here's a link. www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Engine/timing_chain_covers.htm
Think they used oil rtv instead of water rtv. Blue for water applications, and black for oil application. Also, if they did not read the instructions, they most likely did not wait for it to cure.
Could be right, there are different types for different applications. But, I cant think of any gasket install instructions that recommend putting rtv on a paper gasket.
Hylomar Hylotyte for water pumps, thermostats and timing covers. Hylomar blue for anything you would otherwise use RTV. Throw the RTV in the trash and never buy again. Use either Hylomar to dress gaskets or as a gasket.
Okay then genius, how do i seal that flange with that comes with the RMS on those older VAG V6s? I've tried multiple gaskets, cleaned the surface spotless, tightened the bolts in the "oem" manner and it still leaks. Im going all out with silicone on this one.
First thing is Sealer and RTV and not the same thing.. Permatex High TACK is a Sealer / Tack. RTV in not to be used with most Gaskets. It is the Gasket.
Its scary how large some beads of silicone are applied by people, and even Permatex's own videos slap it on super thick. I dont use it on paper gaskets but have use it as a maker, I put nowhere near the amount on that others do and it seals well with not a lot of squeeze out. I tend to put on a thin bead like you see in some OEM factory videos when they're applying black sealant as gaskets.
Ya, it really depends on the application. Permatex is a for-profit company and they could give two craps less if it's done right or wrong As long as they're selling products.
There's no need to use a sealer with a gasket. That's the whole point of the gasket. I have been in a pickle before when I could not get a gasket for my new water pump and I needed my car so I made my own gasket gasket maker. Drove it another hundred thousand miles and never had a leak. I would say use one or the other but I would much rather use a gasket alone. Sometimes if you have a car that's hard to get parts for that can be a challenge don't always have the option to wait a week for something to come in the mail
Yeah but they also never showed when they had to fix it a year later. Sometimes you just get lucky there's a dozen different types of paper and there's a dozen different types of sealer sometimes you accidentally get the right combination
I got a new idea. RTV silicone. No paper gasket. Did that on my jeep 4L because the surface wasn’t super smooth, it was kindof pitted. Hasn’t leaked yet. The right stuff
It all comes down to the specific repair. In your case,. I would have used normal paper and aviation sealer, that's how we did it at the dealership.. there are multiple types of 'paper' so picking the right one is important. Sometimes that thickness makes a difference and you can't just silicone two pieces of metal together, another applications that's how you have to do it. Also there's a It doesn't different types of silicone so you got to make sure to pick the right one in that area as well.. You don't just put black our TV silicone on everything
I use rtv on paper gasket because lot of paper gasket (e.g. athena) can't seal properly alone. And originally japanese manufacturers are using grafith paste coated paper gaskets. And haynes also says use rtv on paper gasket. Yes I use grafith based rtv. I don't want to make gasket for cylinderhead, no need for silicone.
@MegaMarclar just what I have noticed. The paper gasket alone is not enough. Yesterday I tried the greasing up the gasket method and morning I saw an oil stain under the bike. The gasket only worked at water pump but when there is oil space I never got good result. No matter how much I rub the matting surfaces with cloth and alcohol it's just never seal. I try to not use RTV because everybody say it's an evil thing but sometimes it is necessery to make a good repair.
almost certainly the gasket surface wasn't clean, didn't use a torque wrench, and didn't wait for the chemistry to finish..(ie cure time before solvents were contacted/coolant). after years of daily use, proper paper gasket+RTV made the best sealing surface possible. i've even reused a gasket and it worked perfect until i could get a new one.. could do that with just a plain paper gasket. chemistry is an exact science, but, it require patience... (wouldn't use RTV with modern silicone gaskets, aside from problem areas)
Your speaking in a ideal circumstance scenario. That cure time doesn't happen in the automotive industry. Paper gaskets need aviation sealers, not rtv. rtV is a marketing campaign to sell products
@@MegaMarclar "RTV" is "room temperature vulcanization" ...people are always confused when products don't work. like with paint. its all in the prep and process.
@@Swansen03 yeah, that's the problem. The vulcanization of the product is what causes the leaks. Different expansion rates require certain types of sealers. That's why aviation sealer was used up until the felpro and the permitax marketing campaign on rtV.
@@MegaMarclar that doesn't make any sense.. once the reaction is done, its not going 'move' very much?? unless you are torquing before its done setting adding solvents before its done curing, which everyone does.. otherwise that point you made about expansion rates makes no sense..
For paper gaskets - use shellac based _sealer, not 'gasket maker'_ most common is 'Indian head.' For metal to metal or other non paper gaskets, READ the label. And, NO you do NOT know 'better' than the engineers who designed it.
The title is quite aggressive, I gotta say. It should be like do not put too much RTV or sth like that. I do not know other repairs you did, but in this case, the amount of RTV was clearly overkill due to lack of skills or experiences from the customer. Assuming that this is a recommendation for DIYers, they do not have proper tools or skills most of the time, so RTV would definitely help them if they use it properly. I use very little RTV to compensate for old paper gasket on the surface around dowel pins (really hard to clean to perfection). There must be a way to remove old gasket completely, but it seems not that easy when it comes to repairing old vehicles. Sometimes, it is like welded/ fused into the surface so the only option is to scrap it off. I do not put silicon everywhere, but just around dowel pins.
I was looking for mine yesterday to reseal a carb on a mower im troubleshooting It is THE best sealant hands down period Harbor freight used to sell it cheap ill have to go look
Aviation gasket sealant. Never seen one leak, I have not had the chance to see one after 20 years but have never ever ever had a issue with Aviation gasket sealant. Aviation industry is done to a much higher standard than the automotive. The sealant is just tacky and doesn't harden.
@@MegaMarclar I used Permatex Gasket Maker on Thermostat Housing, it leaks, but just a little bit. Check out my latest video at the 5 minute mark, I show what I used.
F&^%!!!!!! i just f-ing did this bc the damn instructions said to. the original had a rubber o-ring style seal on it, the one i bought had a fiber gasket. I thought it would be ok, but now i'm second guessing the whole thing, your expand and contract theory makes a lot of sense. i feel like i learned if you use the sealer on the fiber to just snug it down and let it cure, THEN tighten it down. guess i'll just have to buy one with the rubber seal and replace it again if it doesn't work. piss what fun!
Instead of argueing against the use of RTV+paper gasket.... You should argue against the use of paper gaskets all together. I don't care the application. Paper gaskets fail all thr time with or with out the silicone
That is a accurate statement as well. Not all modern gaskets are indeed paper some of them are some sort of hybrid composite. But since the making of this video three years ago I've been collecting clips of related failures and also suggestions on how to seal gasket surfaces properly.
@@benjaminsmith4519 depends on the application. I would prefer to use a rubberized style gasket. But if paper is all that is available, I would use something like permatex 80019 Aviation gasket sealer
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
For everyone commenting about their "30 year ase" test passing ability, the OEM dealership training facilities (and manufacturers that have to build vehicles to not leak during the warranty period, where they have to fix it for free) have a different opinion. ASE is not a training facility. It's a test. Like a driving test. And we all know how many morons there are on the road....
The point is.. do what you feel you need to do.. all I'm saying, is I've made a pretty good living fixing these leaks... and 85% are "repairs" that have used silicone versus the manufacturer's procedure....
I have used gaskets sealers on about every repair until now. I just replaced the water pump on my Taurus and used blue RTV sealer and less that a week after I replace it, its spraying water everywhere. I have used black RTV sealer and don't seem to have any problem just the blue. I think I will try it this time without any sealer and pray it works. The gaskets are not expensive but I don't like to fix something but once. This is the first time I've had one fail but it it fails one time that's one time to many.
@@alensley1368 there are other types of "gasket sealers" such as "permatex super 300" which is not silicone based, does not dry out, and stays malleable to 425*
Here is s snippet directly from permatex websight.
10. Using a gasket maker as a dressing on a conventional gasket.
This might be the most common gasketing error of all. Many mechanics will use an RTV gasket maker to hold a conventional or cut gasket in place during assembly. Some mechanics will even use the RTV gasket maker as a dressing, coating both sides of the gasket. Gasket makers are the wrong product for these applications - their formulations are too thick for use as a dressing. If you’re installing a conventional gasket, use a gasket sealant - they’re available in sprays, liquids, and tubes, with specialized formulas for a variety of applications.
www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/
@@MegaMarclar Thanks.
show me a GM vehicle now days that dosnt leak before the warranty is up...!..I make a great living.. fixing all that manufacturer procedure..
@@MegaMarclar i used permatex 80062 "high tack" with a paper gasket. Is this ok?
I have been using rtv on gaskets for 15 years as a full time mechanic and never once had a come back .
Sweet. You probably smear black on everything huh?
I believe what happen in this case was,
the client used way to much silicon..
@rickkrockstar i think so too, also possibly not the right kind. I just installed a water pump on 2012 elantra 1.8 L and used a thin layer of permatex "2 make a gasket sealant" on each side of the gasket, its similar to aviation sealant but is said to withstand gasoline and other auto fluids. No leaks yet 🤞I highly recommend it, at least with paper gaskets
I just feel like if you’re going to use rtv then just use it alone. I’ve done both where I’ve had a paper gasket and rtv at the same time and it worked out fine. When you mix both together it’s just an unnecessary step and more work/money. My theory: if the surface is near perfect (not scratched or any imperfections) then use a paper gasket. If it has imperfections then use rtv to fill the gaps
Often parts designed for a gasket need the extra spacing provided by a gasket to function as intended. Using gasket maker or other stand alone flange sealant will change clearances. Same goes the other way, using a gasket where a liquid sealant was the design parameter. There are sealers for closely machined surfaces and sealers for gap filling, sealers for high pressures (like 20,000psi), those for high flex or thermal strain, or specific chemical and temperature resistance, pre-applied verses applied at assembly. Generally the manufacturer has done some research and testing in the matter, though admittedly in the case of many consumer items like cars that research often favors the needs of the original assembly line, or possibly high volume dealer, rather than individual field repair and restoration decades later.
I always put a thin layer of silicon on a paper gasket. Never had a leak.
Always use good quality Loctite high temp silicon and not the cheap stuff. Not worth doing a job twice.
my haynes manual says to use rtv on the paper gasket, now i don't know what to do .
I`ve never had a problem. And have done it many times.jmo
Just do it
It could work or not
It is an other ecpiriense to you
Used rtv and similar for years, NEVER had it leak! trouble is people use rtv sealant wrong most times, put it on, just finger tighten the bolts/nuts, then after an hour torque it up! then don't re fill liquids/fluids for 24hrs, it does say on the packaging how to use it! most people put it on fill and go, it won't work! it works fine if you use it properly! 30 years ago used to use red stag plumbing compound on head gaskets when times were hard and couldn't afford a new gasket! a dad trick that worked! it does work fine if done properly!
Well those processes can help, problem is in today's automotive industry no one can wait that long. It's a flat rate feast or famine world
Thanks.
Did u use the RTV with the paper gasket or just rtv? @justin ayres
I performed many repairs in my 1944 WC 51 many years ago. Many of them were gasket replacement, which I did according to reprinted era manual from Portrayal Press. Excellent reproduction manuals if you ask me. Well, in those manuals you found detailed instructions about how to install or make a gasket and proper torque. I don't think back then cars were leaking oil everywhere since sealant was not invented yet. I performed the gasket replacement using the 1944 method explained in manual and they never failed. Eventually sold that vehicle and bought a newer one in which still use the practice of DONT USE SEALANT IN PAPER GASKET. I still found the same results: no leaking.
I found no reason yet to change that practice since EVIDENCE tells I'm right
it depends on a lot of factors... 'sealant' has many types, and aviation sealer for example is great on paper gaskets. NOT RTV.
Not questioning your experience
but The thing is IF SEALANT IS NECESSARY IN PAPER GASKET...why it doesn't leak when paper gasket is used according to manuals instructions? Pure luck?
@@enterBJ40 follow the video in the description you'll see that there's tens of thousands of possible variations. There's a dozen different papers and 5 dozen different "sealers"... There's no blanket solution for everything. Most are marketing.
2012 elantra 1.8 L just bought a new OE aftermarket pump, the paper gasket comes with instructions and demands applying sealant on both sides of the gasket before installing. Even specificies to do so only on paper gaskets and and in the case of rubber gasket to rather apply a silicone grease instead. Ive seen alot of diy youtubers installing it dry. I really dont know where to look for a good answer on this.
Is it a grey paper? I usually put them on dry, or use aviation sealer. The water pump in this video was actually from a huyndai.
@MegaMarclar its a black paper gasket, almost looks like felt. Anyway i ended up buying permatex "2 make a gasket sealant" seems very similar to aviation selant but with added protection against gasoline and other auto fluids. I only put a thin layer on each side of the gasket (as per instructions) installed 2 days ago and still not leaking.
Thanks for your input man, im still interested on knowing your opinion on this. Cheers bro! Happy holidays!
What should I use for my paper gaskets they just leaked last time I used nothing
check the video in description.
Do we apply the rtv or silicone gasket on both sides,? Meaning under and on top of the paper gasket?
I mean it depends on the application. Not all gaskets and rtv's are the same
Thanks for the info
What about using OPTIMUM GREY in a thin layer on the gasket? Permatex claims it is designed for water pumps?
That is up to you... personally, I never use it.
That's what I did and no leaks!
Used RTV on my water pump and intake manifold gaskets on my 87 Monte Carlo 23 years ago and NO LEAKS in 2021! However I do understand what your saying. It’s just the way an old timer taught me when I was a kid.
There are some applications where it should be used... but not all. On the 305 they want you to use rtv around the coolant passages.
@@MegaMarclarhow about the front and back of the intake of a 305 Chevy small black? I use to always get leaks when I used the rub tabs that came with the intake gasket kits. Later GM started using nothing but silicone instead.
I have a question. I put RTV on the pump itself a d the the gasket no silicone in the block and when the temp gets hot its leaking bad . Is this because i did both?
Crap. I just fixed the water pump gasket on my 99 dodge again. I tried using no silicone and it lasted 6 months. I used silicone on both sides of the gasket last time and it lasted 3 years. Usually i have to replace the gasket once a year. I used permatex water pump and thermostat housing gasket maker today and after installing realized it said rtv. Permatex says its for water pumps, do you think this is right?
What dodge are you working on?
@@MegaMarclar 1999 ram 4x4 318cid
Ram with a 318
@@googleuser8448 that is unusual. I used to work for Dodge and we did thousands of those. Maybe try getting a set of mopar gaskets from the dealer
@@MegaMarclar i did notice my tensioner arm is not holding good tension at all i wonder if that could cause it or maybe the block is warped. Or if it is due to aftermarket pump? I never go with the cheap ones and i use felpro gaskets. Who knows a mopar gasket might do the trick. Thanks for the tip!!
I am about to put a new motorcraft water pump on a 2001 ford ranger.I am not sure what type of gasket it is.Ive watched videos of the install process and some people put sealer on and some dont so im confused as to what to do.
check the video description for another video discussing what sealers to use on what gaskets.
Hello, Thank you for your video. If I well understand The paper gasket is enough. So i don't add any type of isolatation material do i? How does not leak the coolant out from the water pump with paper gasket. can you explain it? thank you in advanced.
It depends on the type of paper, they are not all the same. Clamping force solidifies the paper into a hard substance.
I've used RTV on paper gaskets for many years...and never had any leaks. The trick I do is I wait a few days before I start the engine to give the RTV enough time to harden up.
Good job, glad it worked for you. Do you have a part number for the specific paper you used?
@@MegaMarclar The part# on my last repair was Fel Pro TCS13417. And the RTV I used was Permatex High Heat Red.
@@midos67channel24 that blue paper is silicon impregnated, doesn't require any additional sealers. This is the reason these leak down the road. Silicone will stick to any surface, except it's self. If you were going to use anything on that application it would be aviation sealer.
I’ve learned the hard way I never use silicone on paper gaskets anymore
Thing I always wondered is why people would use the paper gasket anyways if they're using RTV. To me it feels a bit double, like putting a wheels under a wheel to move it. The only time when I used RTV was when there was no gasket to begin with. If there is one, I simply use that and it has always worked fine.
Yeah see that was all due to marketing from fill pro back in the '90s. Silicone everything. The thing is that you're supposed to use aviation sealer on paper gaskets, not rtV
Mine keeps leaking I have bought 2 water pump gaskets and they both were melted or worn after using them for a while, noticed it was still leaking from a bolt side, it was not leaking all around just around the bolt, does a metal gasket make any difference or just using rtv gasket maker ? It’s a 2010 camaro 3.6
Use thread sealer on the bolt threads to seal the hole in the block
So confused. Great video changing thermostat on 94 Wrangler have a new housing, was going to use the blue fel-co gasket. Not sure if I should any sealant. Did the valve cover with a reusable felco and didn’t use sealer and hasn’t leaked yet.
Blue paper has silicone impregnated into it and does not require any additional sealers. If you were going to use anything you would use a spray high-tack, or aviation sealer. See the video in the description for more information
@@MegaMarclar thanks I looked at repair manual and it’s just gasket so that’s what I’m going to do. I feel a lot of the times people have leaks on new gasket is because they do not tighten to torque specs
@@patrickab01 well there are about 25 different types of gasket material paper. Most of the time people have problems with it because if they use blue paper that has silicone in it and they put silicone on it they do not stick together. Suicone will stick to any surface known to man except for itself. So what that being said you have to be aware of what materials you're using and apply the sealers accordingly. The whole thing with the blue paper was that it did not need any sealers at all It was sort of a revolutionary technology designed by felpro many many years ago.
@@MegaMarclar I ended up using a felpro blue paper ,, no sealant, set to manuals torque setting. Ran it for a while got it up to temps with no leaks. Haven’t driven it yet Will see if all holds after driving it for a bit
@@patrickab01 those thermostat housings are famous for warping and also being pitted. If it does end up dripping a little bit I would suggest replacing the whole housing. I actually stock those here in the shop because I replaced them so frequently
Hey thanks man, replacing a water pump and you answered my question.. with an example too
When the metals are similar(eg steel on steel or iron) and the heat is evened out by the enclosed environment you will not have the issue with thermal expansion, both will expand at basically the same rate putting no shear strain on the flange sealant. With aluminum against iron/steel the difference is about 6-7 ten thou per 100f; iron and steel expand ~6.5 ten thou and aluminum expands ~13 ten thou per 100f; copper alloys are between at 9-11 ten thou, titaniums are only about 5 ten thou, lead zinc tin and magnesium are 13-16 ten thou.
I swear most people are at least partially illiterate, they act like reading the label, let alone TDS, will cost them a first born child.
When reusing good condition paper gaskets(yes this can be appropriate for certain old timey projects.) I wilI tend to favor gasket dressings for dressing paper gaskets; These usually thicken but stay somewhat plasticly deformable(flow under force) such as high-tack, gaskacinch, or even non-hardening permatex gasket maker(No2 or aviation-3, or maybe even 300, these are great on threads).
Hell I've even had good luck using Indian-head gasket shellac to cement a motorcycle valve cover in place when the o-ring based seal had gone bad and some threads were in need of an insert,(prior owner tried over tightening rather than replacing the o-ring.) now I was on the road in small town timbukto, but it held on an air cooled engine head for over a month of daily riding until I made it home ordered the o-ring and had the threads repaired. The cover and head were both cast aluminum. Shellac is soluble in straight alcohol for cleanup, but resistant to both petroleum and water.
Separate from all that, there are different types of RTV for good reason, some are stiff(grey) and some are very pliable(red).
Finally someone who gets it. Lol. I've been the enemy of the state since I posted this video, because everyone Is an expert that used rtv one time and had no issues.
This may be true if you are using a high quality OEM gaskets, most people use the aftermarket gaskets that are low quality. I used the gasket supplied with the water pump, did not use any sealant and used an inch pound wrench per the service guide, a year later the gasket was leaking and it took me five hours to replace the gasket. Used Ultra Grey RTV and no leaks in over ten years.. Don't allow RTV to dry before tightening the bolts, it simply seals the paper fibers... RTV works well if used properly, easy to remove compared to adhesive products.
When I replaced my water pump I used only the paper gasket supplied. 3 years later and still no leaks.
High quality OEM 🤣
Yeah ok.
I could buy better quality gaskets than OEM.
Most OEM is trash anyway
OEM outsourced to China. We all know the quality that comes from there.
I got a water pump and it came with a paper gasket and I was thinking of getting a metal one. So are paper gaskets ok too use?
Depends on the application
Iv only ever had leaks from not using silicone
That's because you didn't use the right sealant. Gotta remember that rtv at one time wasnt all over the shelfs in stores and didn't have mass marketing.
So I changing my thermostat can I just use silicone and no paper gasket or do I have to have the gasket??????
You can use straight silicone if you want it to leak and have to do it again. My suggestion is to replace it with whatever came off of It from the factory
I’m replacing the fuel pump on a 350 engine. I’m getting a fel pro gasket for the mounting plate and the pump. Then I should not use gasket sealer on the gaskets correct? Thanks for the info
Depends on the type of paper the gasket is made from, You should use aviation sealer, not rtv. Unless the paper is blue then use hi-tack
@@MegaMarclar Well it was blue so I didn’t use any sealer at all. Hope it doesn’t leak
@@JC7318 blue paper is silicone impregnated and will cure on its own with engine heat
@@MegaMarclar Fuel pump installed. Long ride. No leaks !!
@@JC7318 good deal. A+ for doing research first instead of wandering away at leaks later. The thing about silicone is it will stick to pretty much any surface on the planet except for itself. So when you put silicone on a silicone paper gasket they always leak because there's no actual bond
I'm up changing my water pump on my 2000 Ford Taurus for the 4th time. First time just a gasket. Fail. Second time red silicone RTV Permatex plus gasket too much my fault. Fail. Third time thin layer Permatex number 2 sealant and paper gasket, but I didn't spread it around with my finger. Fail.
At 4 hours a pop this is beginning to piss me off. I figure I'm taking off the tire, spraying the area with carburetor cleaner, and sanding it all down, before reapplying and torquing to specks. The only question is do I use red RTV alone or the paper gasket with the number 2? And if I use the number 2 do I only put it on the side of the water pump? Or do I do the thin layer rubbed on both sides with my finger?
The 4th time frustrations. What can I say... not even my first water pump, but this one's got me by the grapes.
For starters the waterpumps never came with silicon on them from the factory, just straight gasket. I would never use red / Orange on any paper gasket. Different types of silicone are design for different applications. The orange / red stuff always leak when they come in contact with oil or coolant for the most part. If you absolutely have to use silicone I would use black or gray.
But in your particular application I would start by cleaning the surface as well as possible with a wire brush, the using brake parts cleaner to remove all signs of coolant and oil. I would then use permatex high-tack. It's a spray on sticky "sealer" that allows the gasket to stick to the water pump but still allows it to move freely. Spray a thin coat onto your water pump and on to the water pump side of the paper gasket. Let it dry for a minute until it gets sticky didn't put the paper gasket on to the water pump and install it. The problem with silicone is that it's effectively a glue and doesn't allow for expansion and contraction.
Mgeorge: i know how you feel. Doing my 99 dodge water pump gasket for the 4th time as well. So pissed right now!
The biggest reason for RTV sealing failures is due to dirty / oily surfaces. Using ultra grey RTV on coolant system surfaces that have been thoroughly cleaned and de-greased will work perfectly every time!
Additionally, I always prep the surfaces with an abrasive disk, even the new parts before cleaning.
I agree the prep is the biggest part. And I often will do the same, with roughing up a smooth surface.
@@a.melburn I use aviation sealer on those.
So what does he say about the OEMs nowadays using some sort of RTV or similar sealant to seal timing covers, oil pans etc? My Hyundai used RTV on the oil pan from the factory. I had to change the pan because my old man god bless him took the car to a quick lube place and they stripped the threads on the drain plug. I had to replace the pan (pan was only $20 on Amazon). Instead of RTV I made a Garloc gasket and so far so good........I decided to make a gasket only because i had the know how and the material to do it and thought why not. Guess we'll see........
on a precision machined surface a bead of RTV is fine, as long as its the right kind. This video was more specifically targeting those that put RTV on paper which is not designed for that application. Most modern vehicles have moved away from gaskets on hard engine parts like pans and timing covers to make them cheaper to manufacture. The biggest issue there is the people working on them use WAAAAAY too much sealer. Doesn't take much at all.
I've never had anything leak. You say don't use silicone. So what do you recommend?
It depends on the application, there is no one size fits all solution... Check the vid description for the follow up video that talks about what to use, when
Is Hylomar Blue good for sealing paper gaskets? I heard recommendations on that over Permatex Black.
Never use blue for anything that will contact any fluid. Blue will leak everytime guaranteed ...And it also depends on the type of paper gasket what sealer to use.. check the video in the description.
I replaced my Prius water pump with no additional gasket sealant and its been running 2 years with no leaks. Ford after market water pump on Galaxy Mk3 states that you need to smear sealant on the paper gasket. What to do?
Permatex aviation sealer for paper
Think just a dry cereal box gasket for my turbo water jacket seal will hold up? Its wet and really really HOT.
I've used those for oil pumps, and high clamping force areas many times. But coolant will leech thru the paper over time, even with aviation sealer because of the 2 types of cardboard pressed together. In a pinch it would work but long term I'd get the real gasket for it
@@MegaMarclar gaskets were discontinued like 20 years ago... what other material can I cut out? It had red RTV on there in the past... took it off because I thought it was leaking (it actually wasnt it was just the rusted coolant tube next to it). Maybe I'll go back with the red high temp RTV again... its just a pain to work with where its located. Maybe I can apply it and let it dry first? Should it go on both surfaces or just one surface? I wish I knew what kind of gasket the stock one was... isn't a thermostat gasket just cardboard? I would think it would be fine...
@@misterbulger what are you working on?
@@MegaMarclar it's a 1.0 liter 3 cyilnder Suzuki G10 block with the coveted and very rare Turbo head from 1987. Parts for this thing are completely extinct. I've had to macgyver a full rebuild for it. The coolant pipe had a hole in it so I just slid some rubber hose over it and clamped it. Fixed. Other than the leak it runs AMAZING. The turbo is cooled 3 ways: coolant, oil, and the propane that I have running thru it. It spins at about 250-300k rpm so it needs the cooling trust me lol
@@misterbulgerlook up felpro #3195 it's a sheet of gasket paper for coolant. You can make your own out of ut
I reviewed your video it makes sense, the expansion and contraction of the two components. I just got done replacing the thermostat gasket on my 1992 Ford 5.0 V8. I used rtv and yes it leaked for the very reasons you explained in the video. This time I used gasgacinch which coats the paper gasket with a thin layer of the product, you let it dry for a few minutes before attaching the gasket to the housing, then the housing with the gasket to the intake manifold. I applied a thin layer onto the intake manifold, waited 3 minutes then carefully placed the housing on the manifol and started the bolts. Did the leak check, NO leaks!!! Thanks for posting this very important explanation, on why you don't want to use rtv.
thanks for the comment. There IS a difference between 'gasket sealer' and 'rtv "gasket sealer" '
the marketing teams have allowed millions of sales in products and re-repairs. Sometimes you have to go back to the roots of the old timers, and how they did it.
@@MegaMarclar You are correct. I was so happy I was able to stop the leak. The rtv just let coolant leak, dribble out real slow.
@@cliffordkinnear9705 I'm glad you were able to get it fixed. So many people these days think that RTV silicone is the one end all solution
Very true, "gasket maker" does not equal "gasket sealer"(aka "gasket dressing")
IMHO, use a good gasket sealer IF anything. A spray or brushed sealer is WAY different than silicone goo.
I changed a rear differential cover and I just used the paper gasket,did I need to put on silicone or anything else on it!?.... because I didn't do that!...sorry for my ignorance but I don't know but I torqued the screws to what the manual said to torque them to.
Most of the time you will be fine. They used paper gaskets for many years. A lot of modern applications actually just use straight rtv from the factory. No matter which route you go, they all leak eventually.
@@MegaMarclar very much appreciated thank you.
I bought an GM water pump and the directions say use RTV sealant or pump will leak. So not sure about what you’re saying.
directions from the service manual, or from the gasket manufacturer? If its fel-pro they want rtv on everything.
So you just put them all dry? Unless the manual says otherwise?
It depends on the application, what parent metals are used, and what fluid it seals
My ford 1997 Taurus has in the shop manual using Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-1 9B508-AA (ES R-M 11 P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A and I can't find it anywhere. I'm not sure to apply it or not.
the trim adhesive is what they use to hold window seals and stuff on, all it is is a sticky glue that holds the gasket in place. it has no affect on the sealing surface. you can use hi-tack, or just stick the gasket on and hold it there.
@@MegaMarclar Thanks I ended up putting no tack, maybe a smidge of oil (I was doing a water pump) and it worked out pretty well! no leaks!!!
I’ve always used on paper, cork, rubber, etc. Permatex® High Tack™ Spray-A-Gasket™ Sealant.
coat both sides of gasket, let sit for a bit then apply and torque to specs, works great.
High tack does work for a number of applications, but not for all.
@@MegaMarclar for a water pmp or Tstate High Tack is the way to go .
@@awack_ it depends on the specific type of gasket. Hi tack doesn't nessasary work the best on the blue silicon Impregnated paper.
Would Permatex Aviation sealant 80019 be similar to the spray but in brush on? I believe they are similar but one is spray and 80019 brush. Basically it’s just a thin tacky layer to aid assembly.
Can I use RTV along with a metal gasket???
Does the gasket have a coating on it?
@@MegaMarclar It a black gasket for my VVT cover. My current one is leaking very very lightly.
@@DTUFINOPhotography what year make and model is it, I can look up the gasket see what it looks like
@@MegaMarclar 2010 Infiniti FX35, part number is 23797-JA10B i already ordered and will install this coming week but was wondering if i needed RTV. Thanks for taking out the time to reply!
@@DTUFINOPhotography okay that type of gasket is a stamped preformed seal. A lot of the times they have a very thin coating on them I'm not sure exactly what it is but those type of seals are installed dry with no other sealers. All you got to do is clean both surfaces and make sure it's torqued correctly, that's it.
what about a timing cover gasket that deals with both oil and coolant? what would you suggest? 2001 buick century custom 3.1l v6. i have a coolant leak from the timing cover gasket which uses the standard felpro type of paper gasket. i will be diving into this repair soon. thanks.
Personally I always install them dry, just like the factory. On those there are 2 holes where coolant flows through (iirc). You could use some hi-tac to attach it to the timing cover prior to install. It allows the gasket to move as heat expands the metals. Unlike silicone where it creates a path for fluid to travel past..
Just like everything it's your preference. Consider how the factory built the engine in the interest of longevity and lasting through the warranty period. If the factory thought that it would need silicone to seal they would have put it on it.
I used RTV on paper gaskets many times and never had a leak; I use it only to hold the gasket in place while I do the istallation if you don't use something it falls of and there is a chance of damaging the gasket.
depends on the type of paper. I try to use hi-tac if necessary
I've found most people use about 20x too much. A see thru skimming is all that's needed. Sometimes silicone helps to hold the gasket in place also if the mating surface is scratched or damaged in any way silicone has it covered. After having a water pump on a v6 mitsi leak thru the paper gasket after 7 hours of removing shit to get to it......never again shall a gasket be left unglued. I've also done a water pump on a Honda that was missing a bolt from the pump! It wasn't leaking from the seam it was buggered in the bearing but the silicone had been holding up the slack for God knows how long. There is a knack to silicone like any other product. Less than 1mm coating is all that's needed, some dudes lay it on like they would toothpaste on a brush😧
People also confuse "gasket sealer" for rtv. Old school gasket sealer is not rtv. Just because they print it on the package doesnt mean that is what it is.
Honda also uses O-rings which are much more forgiving with missing Fasteners than a standard paper or plastic gasket
@@MegaMarclar it seems to be no matter what tube of goo ya buy the packets all say 100% silicone somewhere on the back 🤣🤣. It's more a marketing/pricing thing I think. You can buy a small maybe 50g tube of gasket silicone for like $20 or a $5 400g tube of bathroom silicone here. They feel, look, smell and taste the same to me. I've used bathroom silicone on sumps before with no leaks even over a period of several years it's still dry. Some of the parts we get here are Chinese knockoffs and the gaskets you get with them sometimes don't even line up with the bloody bolt holes even and you have to blade a little extra out here and there. Over the years I've repaired more paper gaskets than had things leaking glued up with silicone. If ya wanna be a real prick tho go for the sikaflex rubberized bonder/sealer🤣🤣. That shit never lets go.....even for 3 screwdrivers a hammer and vicegrips😂🤣😁🤣😂
@@brotangyoust9252 Let's get Project Farm to do a test on that one!
@@MegaMarclarI wish car manufacturers would only use ORings! So much nicer when assembling parts. I’ve always hated paper gaskets.
I bought a water pump for 1977 Toyota 20R engine.
Got a light sort of cardboard/paper gasket.
So I should NOT USE SILICONE OR SEALANT RIGHT?
Install NO SILICONE.....
PLEASE can U tell .....
UA-cam & other Auto parts stores advise differing things.
Very frustrating........as a woman.
You would use hi-tack or aviation sealer.
@@MegaMarclar hi-tack what brand at auto store?
Is aviation at auto parts store?
Use thin layer or thicker U know.....
Thank U happy holidays!
@@lindaleehulsey3167 I would use permatex aviation sealer. It's a thick dark brown goo. It's what they would have used back then. It doesn't harden or cure like silicon does which is the major problem that people run into. It's really sticky and basically acts like Elmer's glue for the paper. I would recommend using rubber gloves when you put it on just basically paint a thin layer on each side of the paper and stick it on
@@MegaMarclar 👌 great....3 times now believe it......on off leak here leak there. Thin or thick, Rrrrrrrrrr😤
@@lindaleehulsey3167 you may have more issues. Warped housing or something else. Should not have that much trouble sealing.
I don't like RTV because it can squish out and float around in your coolant. I often find chunks when I replace radiators
Absolutely. Aviation sealer is my go-to
I'm replacing thermostat on my old tractor. It definitely had a paper gasket but the new thermostat came with a seal. Do you have any idea if I need to use the thermostat seal also or just the paper gasket. The old thermostat so old I can't tell if it had a seal on it.
Does the thermostat have a rubber almost oring looking seal around the outside edge
@@MegaMarclar Yes sir that's the seal I'm asking about, the one that goes around the edge of the thermostat
@@justinw123 it is probably an updated design and as long as you can get everything tight, and the surface is clean and does not have a ton of pitting, I would just use the rubber gasket on the thermostat itself. This is how all modern cars are all manufactured.
OK thanks for the fast reply have a good one
@@justinw123 no worries you may want to contact manufacturer just to double triple make sure if you have any doubts. Remember that my advice goes just from your description and I have no idea what the actual application looks like.
MY OLD ONE DID NOT HAVE IT FROM THE FACTORY, i DID NOT PUT SEALANT ON THE NEW ONE. lol i was just having this discussion with some one that was watching put the pulley back on, commented that my shit was going to leak and I was going to have to re do it all again LOL. i don't think i will however. If they didn't have it factory, why then would you think you should seal it up? anyway. great video.
Larry Leisuresuit Well, did it leak? I’m bet it did . Mine had some black goo from the factory. Looking for what is considered best for sealing a water pump right now to put the new one in with.
I put sealant on mine few years ago, no leaks. How has yours held up?
@@srocks-uj2ip No it has not. I'm not sure why I missed this reply, some one else just replied and I saw yours above it. 100% all good though. 94 mazda B3000 ( Ford ranger ) 4x4 manual shift with the crap 3.0L ( wish it was a 4 liter.)
@@MrRightNow Mine has not, It's all Good. Yours might be luck? Not enough time gone by? who knows, keep your fingers crossed though. just in case. LOL
I always look at it logically. If your paper gasket needs silicon rtv then the manufacturer should use silicon gaskets. I find paper gaskets all over tractors and the only leaks are when people overfill the fluid levels. The old " if it calls for five quarts I'm putting in six quarts to be safe " people.
Right. most of these 'modern' papers are silicon impregnated and cure with heat. silicon will stick to ANYTHING,... unless it is other silicon.
No mechanic I've worked with, will use an untreated paper gasket. They all leak...
two beer everybody has their own way of doing things. personally over the last 15 years of my career I have seen more paper gaskets fail from Silicon than any other gasket failure. I can't think of any manufacturer that recommends silicone in a paper gasket in a service manual.
Never had a paper gasket leak, until today! Solution? Paper gasket and a thin film covered over the hole paper gasket. Then finger thigh, currently wait it to dry. Then i probably tight it up
@@MegaMarclarare you letting it cure? I know mechanics don’t have time for that, but that’s probably why that’s happening. I’ve used paper gaskets and RTV sealer for over 25 years and I have had good luck with that combo.
My water pump came with replacement gaskets.old metal with little tiny oring kinda deal to new fibor gaskets.I also wonder about sealer can't find anything on adding sealer so I'm with you not going to use it.
Are you suggesting to use the silicon RTV only? or if using the paper gasket, use that only ?
It depends on the application but when gasket sealer is mentioned with paper gaskets they are referring to the old brown Aviation sealer not our RTV
MegaMarclar Thank you for your prompt response. I’m using Permatex Gasket Maker #22071 on my 85’ 5.0’s new thermostat housing. I’ve been using paper gaskets. But they keep leaking. At this point, I’m just going to try the gasket maker alone and see what happens.
@@bkborn74 is there pitting on the housing or on the intake? Also it makes a difference what side the gasket goes on.. iirc theres a machined recess on the intake where th tstat sits.. right?
MegaMarclar No pitting. It’s not recessed. It actually comes out.
@@bkborn74 looking at pictures online, is there a recess in the water outlet housing?
i like using RTV with paper gaskets, it soaks into the paper and makes a silicon/rubber gasket out of paper(applied to both sides). follow the instructions, completely dry, thin coating/small beat, finger tighten, wait for however long is recommended(think an hr), then do final torque. fill with fluids after cure, generally 24hrs. i've really only used this on paper gaskets on crankcase covers on motorcycles, but it sealed so well i could run it with the bolts removed(just as a test) and needed a sledge and wood block to beat it off.... i'd say it sealed well.. (however, this was paper/rtv, literally turns a paper gasket into a modern rubber/silicone version)
It can work in some applications. But your assessment of "turning it into a modern rubber" gasket is not accurate. But I'm glad it worked in your situation.
@@MegaMarclar why?
(obviously its not a 1:1, but it turns out pretty close)
Would you recommend 80062 permatex high tack gasket sealant? I understand RTV isn't the way to go, but looking for something to hold gasket in place for assembly (for a water pump)
Ya that does work. I've always used the spray version. It just really depends on what the gasket is made out of, thickness, and color of the paper
@@MegaMarclar Understood, not sure if it's a paper or composite gasket. Dark grey color. Local store only has the bottle stuff
@@TheWilslap as long as its not blue paper you should be fine
Great, thanks for the replies. Guy at the part store tried to sell me some RTV to add with the paper gasket and I was skeptical. Glad I saw your video!
I literally just got done replacing my thermostat and I used blue rtv silicone with a paper gasket. Literally still have silicone on my fingers goddammit
🤣🤣😂😂😂😂
.... it's just about time for you to be fixing that.
@@waynesanders1406 🤦🏻♂️
So you haven't put the tools away yet
@@Quickfury2010 i was all out of silicone when i posted my comment
ok, that answers that question for me today. thanks :)
If silicone was recommended by the manufacturer, wouldn't they include a small tube as well as the paper gasket?
I haven't seen any (in my admittedly small experience) that do.
Not really .. cost savings, profit margins,.. most of these problems with the gaskets come down to people just not understanding how the system works. Years and years of propaganda by companies like permatex and felpro have let people to believe that silicone is a 100% fix all solution to everything. People could not be bothered to spend 5 minutes to do research to find out what exactly they're supposed to use.
If you do not use RTV on a paper gasket, IT WILL LEAK! Seen it too many times. Always coat the paper gasket with a layer of RTV, by hand, that's suited for the application before installing it.
Name one OEM application where it tells you to rtv a paper gasket, in the service manual.
@@MegaMarclar You can't be serious... Pick up most paper gasket kits and they come with a small tube of RTV. It's "paper". If it comes into contact with coolant or oil, it will slowly seep thru the gasket or thru any imperfections on the mating surfaces. That's what RTV is for. Take the gasket, apply a thin coat of RTV to both sides of the gasket with the tips of your fingers. You must be new to working on cars or something. Years ago, auto makers always used RTV on the pan gaskets(back when they were cork), valve cover gaskets, thermostat gaskets, timing cover, etc.
@@MegaMarclar And if you want an example, look up a timing cover gasket kit for a SB ford. Not that crap 4.6L and newer shit. Look up one for a 289/302/351 windsor. Should come with thread sealant and RTV. I'm staring at the picture of one right now. Here's a link. www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Engine/timing_chain_covers.htm
@@JohnDoe-ml8ru lol, well your the expert.
NO, RTV on a _PAPER_ gasket *WILL LEAK.* Paper gaskets require shellac based SEALER, NOT RTV 'gasket maker.'
Have you ever heard of using spray lithium grease to allow the paper gasket to be imprinted?
I have heard of this being done with success. I personally have never done it myself.
Think they used oil rtv instead of water rtv. Blue for water applications, and black for oil application. Also, if they did not read the instructions, they most likely did not wait for it to cure.
Could be right, there are different types for different applications. But, I cant think of any gasket install instructions that recommend putting rtv on a paper gasket.
Hylomar Hylotyte for water pumps, thermostats and timing covers.
Hylomar blue for anything you would otherwise use RTV.
Throw the RTV in the trash and never buy again.
Use either Hylomar to dress gaskets or as a gasket.
never heard of it. Will look it up.
Okay then genius, how do i seal that flange with that comes with the RMS on those older VAG V6s? I've tried multiple gaskets, cleaned the surface spotless, tightened the bolts in the "oem" manner and it still leaks. Im going all out with silicone on this one.
Not sure, never had a VAG that leaks🤣.. I would use some permatex aviation sealer, not rtv.
First thing is Sealer and RTV and not the same thing.. Permatex High TACK is a Sealer / Tack. RTV in not to be used with most Gaskets. It is the Gasket.
Hardly anyone knows that. The rtv companies have marketed it for so long people have forgotten the brown goo, or hi tack.
Its scary how large some beads of silicone are applied by people, and even Permatex's own videos slap it on super thick. I dont use it on paper gaskets but have use it as a maker, I put nowhere near the amount on that others do and it seals well with not a lot of squeeze out. I tend to put on a thin bead like you see in some OEM factory videos when they're applying black sealant as gaskets.
Ya, it really depends on the application. Permatex is a for-profit company and they could give two craps less if it's done right or wrong As long as they're selling products.
There's no need to use a sealer with a gasket. That's the whole point of the gasket. I have been in a pickle before when I could not get a gasket for my new water pump and I needed my car so I made my own gasket gasket maker. Drove it another hundred thousand miles and never had a leak. I would say use one or the other but I would much rather use a gasket alone. Sometimes if you have a car that's hard to get parts for that can be a challenge don't always have the option to wait a week for something to come in the mail
Thanks for the info very helpful...
Never used rtv with paper gasket but I’ve seen so many people do that in UA-cam videos makes me feel like I was doing it wrong but never had a problem
Yeah but they also never showed when they had to fix it a year later. Sometimes you just get lucky there's a dozen different types of paper and there's a dozen different types of sealer sometimes you accidentally get the right combination
Been doing for 15 years, never had an issue
probably because people take their vehicles elsewhere when it leaks.
I got a new idea. RTV silicone. No paper gasket. Did that on my jeep 4L because the surface wasn’t super smooth, it was kindof pitted. Hasn’t leaked yet. The right stuff
It all comes down to the specific repair. In your case,. I would have used normal paper and aviation sealer, that's how we did it at the dealership.. there are multiple types of 'paper' so picking the right one is important. Sometimes that thickness makes a difference and you can't just silicone two pieces of metal together, another applications that's how you have to do it. Also there's a It doesn't different types of silicone so you got to make sure to pick the right one in that area as well.. You don't just put black our TV silicone on everything
@@MegaMarclar it’s silicone specially designed for applications like what I used it for.
@@JacobEcret which one? And what parts did you use it on? The right stuff is just a brand, they make about 30 different products.
I use rtv on paper gasket because lot of paper gasket (e.g. athena) can't seal properly alone. And originally japanese manufacturers are using grafith paste coated paper gaskets. And haynes also says use rtv on paper gasket. Yes I use grafith based rtv. I don't want to make gasket for cylinderhead, no need for silicone.
everything comes down to application, there is no one fix for all.
@MegaMarclar just what I have noticed. The paper gasket alone is not enough. Yesterday I tried the greasing up the gasket method and morning I saw an oil stain under the bike. The gasket only worked at water pump but when there is oil space I never got good result. No matter how much I rub the matting surfaces with cloth and alcohol it's just never seal.
I try to not use RTV because everybody say it's an evil thing but sometimes it is necessery to make a good repair.
@huntakashi6961 well the gasket itself should more or less seal. If it's that big of a problem you probably have a surface that isn't flat.
almost certainly the gasket surface wasn't clean, didn't use a torque wrench, and didn't wait for the chemistry to finish..(ie cure time before solvents were contacted/coolant).
after years of daily use, proper paper gasket+RTV made the best sealing surface possible. i've even reused a gasket and it worked perfect until i could get a new one.. could do that with just a plain paper gasket.
chemistry is an exact science, but, it require patience... (wouldn't use RTV with modern silicone gaskets, aside from problem areas)
Your speaking in a ideal circumstance scenario. That cure time doesn't happen in the automotive industry. Paper gaskets need aviation sealers, not rtv. rtV is a marketing campaign to sell products
@@MegaMarclar "RTV" is "room temperature vulcanization" ...people are always confused when products don't work. like with paint. its all in the prep and process.
@@Swansen03 yeah, that's the problem. The vulcanization of the product is what causes the leaks. Different expansion rates require certain types of sealers. That's why aviation sealer was used up until the felpro and the permitax marketing campaign on rtV.
@@MegaMarclar that doesn't make any sense.. once the reaction is done, its not going 'move' very much?? unless you are torquing before its done setting adding solvents before its done curing, which everyone does.. otherwise that point you made about expansion rates makes no sense..
@@Swansen03 check the video in the description
when I see silicone on an engine ....yuck
For paper gaskets - use shellac based _sealer, not 'gasket maker'_ most common is 'Indian head.'
For metal to metal or other non paper gaskets, READ the label. And, NO you do NOT know 'better' than the engineers who designed it.
It’s all about gasket shellac for paper and Cork
Exactly.. that's what they mean by "gasket sealer" not rtv
Thanks
anyone that has owned an old holden or ford would laugh at you if you didnt use sealant on the gaskets
Old timers used brown goo gasket sealer. Not rtv
@@MegaMarclar we old timers use rtv today with no probs
He did it wrong, ive done it many times and never leaks
The title is quite aggressive, I gotta say. It should be like do not put too much RTV or sth like that. I do not know other repairs you did, but in this case, the amount of RTV was clearly overkill due to lack of skills or experiences from the customer. Assuming that this is a recommendation for DIYers, they do not have proper tools or skills most of the time, so RTV would definitely help them if they use it properly. I use very little RTV to compensate for old paper gasket on the surface around dowel pins (really hard to clean to perfection). There must be a way to remove old gasket completely, but it seems not that easy when it comes to repairing old vehicles. Sometimes, it is like welded/ fused into the surface so the only option is to scrap it off. I do not put silicon everywhere, but just around dowel pins.
I tend to agree. In most paper applications I typically use old school brown goop gasket sealer like permatex form-a-gasket aviation sealer #80019.
Outstanding
I use hylomar wherever I can
I was looking for mine yesterday to reseal a carb on a mower im troubleshooting
It is THE best sealant hands down period
Harbor freight used to sell it cheap ill have to go look
Aviation gasket sealant. Never seen one leak, I have not had the chance to see one after 20 years but have never ever ever had a issue with Aviation gasket sealant. Aviation industry is done to a much higher standard than the automotive. The sealant is just tacky and doesn't harden.
Everything has it's application. I prefer aviation over anything else. Check the description for the follow up video
Yup, I did it wrong too
What happened?
@@MegaMarclar I used Permatex Gasket Maker on Thermostat Housing, it leaks, but just a little bit. Check out my latest video at the 5 minute mark, I show what I used.
F&^%!!!!!! i just f-ing did this bc the damn instructions said to. the original had a rubber o-ring style seal on it, the one i bought had a fiber gasket. I thought it would be ok, but now i'm second guessing the whole thing, your expand and contract theory makes a lot of sense. i feel like i learned if you use the sealer on the fiber to just snug it down and let it cure, THEN tighten it down. guess i'll just have to buy one with the rubber seal and replace it again if it doesn't work. piss what fun!
What application are you working on?
@@MegaMarclar replacing water pump on a 2000 Saturn sc1
@@chrisestes624 looks like it's as you said, there are 2 types.. oring and paper gasket style. Think you'll be fine for a while at least.
@@MegaMarclar got you thanks for the reply it wasn't too awful hard to get to so if I have to redo it it'll be alright
Thank you for the response too
I understand your theory but I call bs.
Do whatever you feel is best
Instead of argueing against the use of RTV+paper gasket.... You should argue against the use of paper gaskets all together. I don't care the application. Paper gaskets fail all thr time with or with out the silicone
That is a accurate statement as well. Not all modern gaskets are indeed paper some of them are some sort of hybrid composite. But since the making of this video three years ago I've been collecting clips of related failures and also suggestions on how to seal gasket surfaces properly.
@@MegaMarclar if you don't mind me asking. What is your preference for sealing a paper gasket on a oil pan??
@@benjaminsmith4519 depends on the application. I would prefer to use a rubberized style gasket. But if paper is all that is available, I would use something like permatex 80019 Aviation gasket sealer
@@MegaMarclar my bad I meant to metal. What kind of adhesive you might use om a oil pan
@@benjaminsmith4519 it really depends on the application. What exactly are you working on