LOL I see this all the time - the ER5 was fucking full of it - I even have the video taking the strainer apart and all there was was silicone slivers fucking everywhere.
The quick answer is no. If you're gonna use a gasket, just use a gasket, not two, and no RTV. $35,000 dollars of automotive school, and this was hammered into me multiple times.
I'm in both camps on this one as i've used sealants on gaskets when trying to keep them in place for assembly (such as 2 stroke crankcase gaskets) and on the fire rings of headgaskets to initially seal the cylinder gases from escaping into the cooling system (reliant motors are a pain to seal in this respect till they've been "run up" and been re-torqued) until the gasket has settled and sealed and also on gaskets for parts that i may periodically disassemble (alternator cover to access the starter clutch behind the rotor on old hondas for example) but not have to replace every time, I agree it's not strictly the correct thing to do, but sometimes the devil drives as needs musts.
I'm with you in this for some applications too, Steve. I think it's a case of knowing what sealants do what and where best to use or omit them. Also, and Matt touched on this too, if you're in a pinch situation, sometimes you have just do what you can, just to get you home, or out of the crap for a few days, until you have the time / parts / money / tools to sort things the right way.
I had a old CB350 that a mechanic used RTV on my valve cover after adjusting the valve lash instead of a new or crafted gasket. After about 6 months a piece of the RTV broke off internationally and clogged the oil port to the cam. I was doing 80MPH when this happened. The engine seized locking my back tire. Didn't crash, but it scared the crap out of me. I ended up having to push my bike home 3 miles because we didn't have cell phones back then. You don't realize how heavy bikes are till you have to push it home in 100°F weather.
A place that I once worked in, removed all the Hylomar from the stores and we were told to hand in any in our posession, after the Health and Safety guy noticed that on the box it stated "No known antidote."
Back in the day when I was learning my trade the best mechanic I've ever worked with showed me a light coating of grease both sides, then the casing can be removed without the soft mallet and the gasket can be reused. This has always worked for me and if I ever see silicon sealant protruding between mating faces I immediately think which bodging bastard has been in here.
I like to use a light coat of LM grease or fresh engine oil, for the same reasons you state Sideways, never had a leak yet and like you say the gasket will last multiple useages. The only time I use sealers is between two non-gasketed surfaces like case halves, etc. Feel exactly the same about squidged out silicone too mate!
I've always just used a very thin coating of axle grease on both sides of the gasket. I've never had a leak and bonus the gasket always comes off easily.
I’ve seen oil ways blocked because of overuse of silicon gaskets, so don’t use too much, even on old Brit bikes that tend to leak oil and don’t have oil filters! I’ve made gaskets using a dirty thumb to press down the paper on the casting and mark the paper with the impression of the casting. On large cast iron castings I’ve seen people gently tap out a paper gasket using a hammer.
I had a Honda Blackbird and had to take the alternator cover off. I replaced it with a new OEM gasket and torqued it up. Result was oil all over my boot. I checked the manual which I should have done in the first place and noted that it should have had sealant in two small areas re fitted with Honda sealant perfect no leaks.
I fucking love gasket paper, one of my favorite jobs back in my dads yard was tapping out new gaskets. Using a dirty finger to "trace" the outline of the part and where the holes are then using a ball peen hammer, or any tool you have at the side of the road to tap along the lines against the part to cut the shape out, felt pretty zen. Using a blade was never an option, too hard to cut the tight radii and on the side of the road in the snow at 4am with a pissed off skip driver looking over your shoulder you're more likely to cut your finger off. Also sealant is the devils work, "satans jizz" our sparky called it.
Thank god for that, my dad showed me 35 years ago the ball pein hammer trick, for 35 years its worked perfect for me, the old methods have saved me a fortune and work bloody great ;)
Can I use paranite material to cut out a gasket for motorcycle generator cover? and what a about the sealant part. Also, is it a good idea to rub some oil on the area where gasket is placed, so I can get a good outline where to cut. Real newbie here, ty alot.
Nice video . Can I use this on an intake manifold gasket as an add on to the existing gasket ( old gasket ) that seems to be flattened. I cleaned intake manifold as part of maintainence on my Prius V 2013 with 190,000 miles on it or just use the old one without applying this RTV. Thank you. I subscribed.
For my valve cover gasket I used a little bit of Hylomar universal sealant because it's a pain in the ass to get the cover with gasket back on on a Honda NTV. So to keep the gasket in place I used that. Works fine.
The gasket can still fall off the cover when you're trying to install it. Unless of course you can put the valve cover upside down on a flat surface & rest the engine gently ontop of it. That may be a bit more awkward than using sealant though.
Yep, it's not a 100% secure but it definitely keeps it in place if you don't bump against something. And of course it's important that the gasket fits 100%.
if it makes you feel any better, I stick cam/rocker gaskets to the cover with evostick (contact adhesive) to ensure the gasket can't move from the mating surfaces position (good example is BMC A-series/Reliant rocker cover cork gasket which can get "sucked-in" during running even though the gasket was fitted in the correct position), some manufacturer's apply adhesive to these gaskets (at Perkins the gaskets came with a peel off backing with the adhesive pre-applied) but this adds to the cost of the gasket, so isn't universal.
what about metal gaskets? from my experience, they tend to leak, so I started putting a bit of sealant on them a while ago. never on the paper ones though.
i don't like using that silicone stuff because the excess goes in as well as out and i always imagine bits of it breaking off on the inside and going somewhere it shouldn't having said that toyota and im sure many others use it solely on oil sumps etc, i think the old shellac is as good as any .
Agreed the application of gasket sealant is different in every situation. I personally cut my own gaskets if it is (feasible) other wise just buy the OEM stuff. I try to not use sealant unless specified.. But if I do it's generally around the bolt holes just as a tack until I can get the part bolted down. If you have your matting surface all wonky and think you can fill it with sealant that is not a cure. I like permatex gasket sealant. But as stated generally just to tack a gasket. Used very sparingly. Thank for the video
The definitive answer is: whatever the service manual tells you to do. Of course the trouble with modern bikes is getting access to the manuals. Generally speaking, some sealant around where the crankcase halves mate on side covers is good practice.
Some sealant on the mentioned surfaces above IS NOT good practice. That's the point I was making. You say that newer bikes manuals are hard to get hold of? Are you serious? Now if you mean for free, then yes.
I used to have a classic 1956 Triumph Tiger T110 pre-unit and it was impossible to get most gaskets, so I bought special gasket paper, and smeared a thin film of margarine onto the alloy cover, and pressed it onto the paper which left an accurate imprint, and cut the gaskets by hand with super sharp tailors scissors...I had an oil tight Trumpy!
Matt, another reason for not adding sealant is to avoid the mess it makes. I had a co worker, use RTV an oil pump to hold the O-ring type gasket in place, the RTV ended up plugging the oil passages, and the rest is history, the engine starved for oil. The shop ended owning the engine. I use vaseline as gasket dressing ,to hold gaskets in place, less messy, and if you have to redo the work, all you have to do is just peel off the gasket, and it comes off in one piece, no scraping, just wipe off the the matting surface... my 2 cent's...
I've currently got a cardboard gasket from a Nutri Grain box because I was in a pinch, haven't needed to change it yet... I mean, if I happen to run into a bit of money,I will of course get a new gasket, but it does work well
Putting a shit ton of sealant on the gasket isn't usually a great idea since it can technically change the clearance between the parts you're sealing. The only situation I personally use stuff like silicone sealant is when the gasket surface of the metal part is in bad condition and is likely to leak with just the paper gasket.
Why do most naturally aspirated 4-stroke enginges have a peak tourqe at roughly 100Nm/litre? Just by looking at official numbers, most engines have similar peak torque performance no matter of number of cylinders or displacement. A long stroke single/twin would likely generate vastly more torqe. Form my simpe googeling, most multi cylinder short stroke engines seems to make equal peak torqe? Am I wrong or is there a explenation on this topic?
Answer, torque per litre correlates with volumetric efficiency, which for naturally aspirated engines results in a max of Around 110Nm/L, stroke isn’t a part of it, for displacement, any change in Stroke is proportional to the change in piston area.
@@dirtygarageguy If you look at many four Stroke engines you will see the highest performance naturally aspirated engines of different backgrounds come in around 110Nm/L, and they are always the high performance/horsepower versions, not the so called high torque versions. The super short stroke v8/v10 F1 engines that reached 20k RPM and the relatively long stroke road legal 2001 BMW E46 M3 make similar torque per litre, (NA) Volumetric Efficiency pretty much peaks at 120% no matter how good you are, the trick to making power is #1 make this torque output, #2 make it at high RPM. Stroke length doesn’t have the effect on torque people think it does because for same size engines the leverage effect of the crank shaft is directly oppositely proportional to the axial gas force supplied by the area of the piston. Short stroke engines have large pistons, so while the short stroke crank has less leverage, the larger piston pushes it harder. Long stroke engines might have good leverage from the piston force, but the smaller piston has less force to begin with, and the effects are proportional, so apart from a little mechanical efficiency change, there is no winner. So torque really comes down to how much air you are flowing, and the RPM you are doing. Long stroke = high torque is BS. High volumetric efficiency = torque = reality. All comments relate to specific torque output per engine displacement. Past my Bed time 💤
Matt I remember working for a guy who was too cheap to replace gaskets and he used to tell us to cover gaskets and seals and o rings in sealent if we were re using them or if they were new even the ammount of issues and comebacks we had was mental 😂😂😂 some people there is no talking to
The amount of dirtbikes I bought with rtv squeezing out on every gasket surface. Some people think every gasket needs a load of rtv new or old gaskets 😂 yes Its probably a American v8 thing
Hey Matt... I'm about to buy a 4 stroke scooter made of chinesium... is it gonna hurt something to put just a tiny bit of oil in the tank along with the fuel? does it actually help in any way, shape or form?
If it's a 4 stroke, just fill it up with standard fuel. Oil in the fuel tank (or separate mixer tank) is for 2 stroke. Put oil where it's supposed to have oil and fuel where it's supposed to have fuel.
alles klar klaus funny thing is im tired of having to mix oil and fuel... i just wanted to know, if it helps the engine in any way.. if it did i would do it but aparently it doesnt so whatever
"is it gonna hurt something to put just a tiny bit of oil in the tank along with the fuel?" - where did you hear this? Isaac said something similar. I'll do a video. Cheers for the comment - and to answer - no don't put oil in the tank.
Out of University my first job was at a test facility. The senior night shift guy was on vacation so I was tasked with baby sitting the ammonia cooling system and top off these little hoppers with mineral oil because there is literally engineered oil leaks, "controlled weeping" they called it. They also said, if this cooling system runs away, it will take out the city (I assume he means the toxic release of gasses would evacuate the city).
I’m have a big headache with my 2004 ktm exc I’ve just replaced the gasket and still having an oil leak so I’ve just used some gasket sealant I’m literally waiting on it to dry such a headache
One of my engines recently started running rough at idle and midrange, but is fine at high revs. I checked all the obvious stuff including spark plugs and wiring, starting to suspect injectors. Can you talk about fuel injector cleaning? Any preference for additive products or should I have the injectors removed and washed with ultrasonic instead?
Just ripped a gasket rebuilding the top and my 125 pit bike yesterday this video is perfect timing definitely gonna try some of that gasket board stuff fuck paying for a whole new gasket set and waiting for shipping
A friend's father used old marine charts to make gaskets. Marine charts are resistant to water, oil, etc. so worked just fine on motor vehicles, outboard motors, bike engines.
Cheers man. I was thinking standard stationary hole punch, until reading your response. Then I remembered the industrial-like tailor/seamstress hole punches me dear Nana used to use while making clothes... 1 sec... Amazon do a cheap leather hole punch, not sure if it ill be as precise as the stationary version though, but it does have multiple sizes. Up from there, are £50 die looking things for goldsmiths..? lol Hmmm, maybe an experiment is due.
I've got a suggestion for a topic: why did older bikes leak oil so much more? Better sealants now? Gaskets? Or engine design? Better casting? Just guessing here. I'd think it would make a nice topic!
I would only use aviation non hardening gasket glue, never silicone, on gasketless joints (rocker cover and center case on most bikes) or if I have to reuse an old gasket, but expect never to use again But must used very thin and sparingly
Just bought the bottom end of a Varadero engine (from your part of the world) that failed due to the oil not reaching the cams. Why? Because the original owner (not the guy I bought it from) refitted the heads with great Delboy style gobs of sealant on the gaskets. It oozed out and totally blocked the fucking oilways! It's a no brainer. I used to put grease on them. That makes it easier to remove the case again during reassembly) if you need to. After the engine gets hot enough, the grease bakes off with no ill effects in my experience. White 2/3/4 sheet board in A3 is even cheaper.
Nobody taught me, I was wandering around a car parts shop and saw "gasket paper" I found somewhere that actually sold sheets of it. Thinking of the money saved, but time spent cutting and trimming.
My advice about gaskets, buy oem ones and install on clean dry surfaces. Oem gasket usually already have sealants in them and always fit perfectly. Non oem are junk, either they are to big or to small tear easy, by then you are using extra sealant because its shit.
they invented hylomar because of the merlin engine. it had such loose tolerances they needed a custom sealant to stop the leaking. that is the British version lol the U.S. built merlin engines had no need for hylomar as the machining was of a higher quality.
LOL nice try with the bullshit. I used to machine parts for re-conditioned merline engines. This is utter bollocks. Hylomar was developed by Rolls-Royce but in the 60's by the Rolls-Royce Aerospace division. Its was developed for the mating surfaces in the gearbox housing for the Avon engine. It used to be called SQ32 and then later called PL32. So back to the bollocks. It was nothing to do with machining - it was to do with mass production. Merlin engines at rolls-royce were hand built. The fit was down to the machinists that built the engine. In other words the machinists made the raw casting and components 'fit' together. This meant that the tolerances on the drawing were 'loose' rough cut dimentions from the manufacturing plants and the machinists would do the rest. Matching each component to each other. Packard Motor Company didn't work like this. They required draws that spelled it out for them what the tolerances had to be. Ford turned down bulding the Merlin in part due to this fact. If anything the machining from Packard was worse, with several planetary gears binding up in the second stage charger transfer set. Pilots would report the second stage nearly stalling the engine.
The Workshop lol nice try with your bullocks reply to back your bullocks. If you would do some simple research you will see that I am right. also if you are not aware merlin engines are aircraft motors so you are confirming what I said. yes that was part of rolls royce's aerospace division. here is a quote from hylomar's website. also it wasnt invented by rolls Royce it was valco that made it for them. "The original product was developed in conjunction with Rolls-Royce and was used for sealing aircraft engines. Hylomar continues to manufacture Rolls-Royce approved products for sealing aeronautical turbines." hylomar was developed in the late 30's early 40's to seal mateing faces on the RR Merlin engine as the machineing was not that good, to stop them leaking, they never really had the same problems with the Packard Merlins (US made) as the machining tolerences were a lot finer (Newer machine tools). no shit the Packard company had to have drawers to make an engine for another company based off of the tolerances they set. that's how any company works that has to sub out work they can't handle. The Packard company just made it closer to the tolerances on paper than the original manufacturer.
Adam Z valco state that it was developed in the late 50's (so that would be the meteor piston engine) www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.valco-hylomarproducts.com/history%2520of%2520hylomar%2520blue.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwifxJeKia3cAhXK_qQKHUENAAMQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2b8_zLrLLdo1a9IXivl9pn and hylomar state on their website that it was developed in conjunction with rr plc in the 60's for use on early jet engines as a seal for synthetic lubricants. www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html curious of your back ground have u ever touched a Merlin engine? I'm thinking your butt hurt that the p51 was shit until it got the Merlin? Or was it the comment about the shite stoneage v8's?
Stan Mil PL 32 or the first commercial for sale aerograde hylomar was in the 60 that I give you. That's the 32nd version though and for sale to the public lol not just used in rolls Royce factories. the original was used in the late 30's early 40's on the British shite merlins that were poorly machined. Ronnie Harker, a Rolls-Royce service liaison pilot, was invited by the RAF to try an early example when it arrived in the UK. He reported that 'It should prove itself a formidable low and mid altitude fighter. It closely resembles the Me.190F, probably due to its being designed by one of the Messerschmitt designers, who is now with the North American Aeroplane Co. [The book points out although Edgar Schmued came from Germany, he never worked for Messerschmitt]. The point which strikes me is that with a powerful and good engine like the Merlin 61, its performance should be outstanding, as it is 35 mph faster than a Spitfire V at roughly the same power'. Rolls-Royce then set about trial fitting of Merlins to Mustangs at their Hucknall development centre, the first example flying in October 1942. Separate development took place in the USA. Although there was no difficulty in principle in accommodating the compact Merlin in the airframe, dealing with problems of engine and oil cooling and air admission proved interesting. That's when " hylomar", which wasn't called hylomar at the time, came into play. sheep 🐑
Cheers Matt I do what I like 🤣🤣 but I use silicone on a lot of gaskets but the real issue is that you only need the thinnest smear of it if you do use it. I currently have a 1600 Suzuki escudo here that has been rebuilt recently ( fuckin botch up as it currently has the head off and been very hot shortly after this " rebuild ") the fuckin amount of orange sealant that's squished outs 10mm protruding off the motor in places and comes off like a rope when you peel it off. I'm betting the pickups just full of the crap.
@@dirtygarageguyit does help it seal and doesn't cause an issue if you just use enough to stick shit together. I did a water pump on a mitsi diamante v6 ( nightmare job ) and it leaked after I put it together using only a gasket so after that I take no chances🤣🤣.
Hylomar works great in the right application, rebuilt a rover k series engine, use hylomar to seal the shims required to raise the wet liners etc, stinks like a pensioners unwashed fanny tho
but it sucks if it is like the middle case gasked which now is dripping after i put the engine back together and in my bike id have to drop the fucking engine again and take everything apart and then add sealant to the fucking gasket😡😡
An Englishman giving advise about preventing leaks in gaskets :/ , they invented leaks!
Roland B whats a jaguar with no oil under it?
maurice van doeselaar dry
Old British stuff doesn't leak. It is just a total loss oil system. Ensures it always has fresh oil. Lol
Seized!
It doesn't leak, it marks it's spot
Another good reason to not use sealant is that the sealant squeeze out on the inside can eventually come away and begin to clog the oil strainer.
LOL I see this all the time - the ER5 was fucking full of it - I even have the video taking the strainer apart and all there was was silicone slivers fucking everywhere.
The quick answer is no. If you're gonna use a gasket, just use a gasket, not two, and no RTV. $35,000 dollars of automotive school, and this was hammered into me multiple times.
Well sometimes you just have to get it done with the lower cost . RTV helps when the gasket is reused .
A tiny bit of high tack sealant is nice to keep the gasket in place especially if it is thin paper or on the side/bottom of the engine.
I'm in both camps on this one as i've used sealants on gaskets when trying to keep them in place for assembly (such as 2 stroke crankcase gaskets) and on the fire rings of headgaskets to initially seal the cylinder gases from escaping into the cooling system (reliant motors are a pain to seal in this respect till they've been "run up" and been re-torqued) until the gasket has settled and sealed and also on gaskets for parts that i may periodically disassemble (alternator cover to access the starter clutch behind the rotor on old hondas for example) but not have to replace every time, I agree it's not strictly the correct thing to do, but sometimes the devil drives as needs musts.
I'm with you in this for some applications too, Steve. I think it's a case of knowing what sealants do what and where best to use or omit them. Also, and Matt touched on this too, if you're in a pinch situation, sometimes you have just do what you can, just to get you home, or out of the crap for a few days, until you have the time / parts / money / tools to sort things the right way.
I had a old CB350 that a mechanic used RTV on my valve cover after adjusting the valve lash instead of a new or crafted gasket. After about 6 months a piece of the RTV broke off internationally and clogged the oil port to the cam. I was doing 80MPH when this happened. The engine seized locking my back tire. Didn't crash, but it scared the crap out of me. I ended up having to push my bike home 3 miles because we didn't have cell phones back then. You don't realize how heavy bikes are till you have to push it home in 100°F weather.
Fel-Pro is the equivalent of Flexoid in the USA the make most the gasket kits.
A place that I once worked in, removed all the Hylomar from the stores and we were told to hand in any in our posession, after the Health and Safety guy noticed that on the box it stated "No known antidote."
Back in the day when I was learning my trade the best mechanic I've ever worked with showed me a light coating of grease both sides, then the casing can be removed without the soft mallet and the gasket can be reused. This has always worked for me and if I ever see silicon sealant protruding between mating faces I immediately think which bodging bastard has been in here.
sideways action good point, wish he would have touched base on that.
I like to use a light coat of LM grease or fresh engine oil, for the same reasons you state Sideways, never had a leak yet and like you say the gasket will last multiple useages. The only time I use sealers is between two non-gasketed surfaces like case halves, etc. Feel exactly the same about squidged out silicone too mate!
I've always just used a very thin coating of axle grease on both sides of the gasket. I've never had a leak and bonus the gasket always comes off easily.
I’ve seen oil ways blocked because of overuse of silicon gaskets, so don’t use too much, even on old Brit bikes that tend to leak oil and don’t have oil filters! I’ve made gaskets using a dirty thumb to press down the paper on the casting and mark the paper with the impression of the casting. On large cast iron castings I’ve seen people gently tap out a paper gasket using a hammer.
I had a Honda Blackbird and had to take the alternator cover off. I replaced it with a new OEM gasket and torqued it up. Result was oil all over my boot. I checked the manual which I should have done in the first place and noted that it should have had sealant in two small areas re fitted with Honda sealant perfect no leaks.
I'm with you on the American V8's!!!
I grease my gaskets and o rings when fitting just to keep them in place most of it gets squeezed out anyway
I fucking love gasket paper, one of my favorite jobs back in my dads yard was tapping out new gaskets. Using a dirty finger to "trace" the outline of the part and where the holes are then using a ball peen hammer, or any tool you have at the side of the road to tap along the lines against the part to cut the shape out, felt pretty zen. Using a blade was never an option, too hard to cut the tight radii and on the side of the road in the snow at 4am with a pissed off skip driver looking over your shoulder you're more likely to cut your finger off.
Also sealant is the devils work, "satans jizz" our sparky called it.
Lol descriptive, I like the story. I can picture that well
Thank god for that, my dad showed me 35 years ago the ball pein hammer trick, for 35 years its worked perfect for me, the old methods have saved me a fortune and work bloody great ;)
Can I use paranite material to
cut out a gasket for motorcycle generator cover? and what a about the sealant part. Also, is it a good idea to rub some oil on the area where gasket is placed, so I can get a good outline where to cut. Real newbie here, ty alot.
Nice video . Can I use this on an intake manifold gasket as an add on to the existing gasket ( old gasket ) that seems to be flattened. I cleaned intake manifold as part of maintainence on my Prius V 2013 with 190,000 miles on it or just use the old one without applying this RTV. Thank you. I subscribed.
For my valve cover gasket I used a little bit of Hylomar universal sealant because it's a pain in the ass to get the cover with gasket back on on a Honda NTV. So to keep the gasket in place I used that. Works fine.
Rocker covers generally don't leak though.
The gasket can still fall off the cover when you're trying to install it. Unless of course you can put the valve cover upside down on a flat surface & rest the engine gently ontop of it. That may be a bit more awkward than using sealant though.
Yep, it's not a 100% secure but it definitely keeps it in place if you don't bump against something. And of course it's important that the gasket fits 100%.
if it makes you feel any better, I stick cam/rocker gaskets to the cover with evostick (contact adhesive) to ensure the gasket can't move from the mating surfaces position (good example is BMC A-series/Reliant rocker cover cork gasket which can get "sucked-in" during running even though the gasket was fitted in the correct position), some manufacturer's apply adhesive to these gaskets (at Perkins the gaskets came with a peel off backing with the adhesive pre-applied) but this adds to the cost of the gasket, so isn't universal.
what about metal gaskets? from my experience, they tend to leak, so I started putting a bit of sealant on them a while ago. never on the paper ones though.
i don't like using that silicone stuff because the excess goes in as well as out and i always imagine bits of it breaking off on the inside and going somewhere it shouldn't having said that toyota and im sure many others use it solely on oil sumps etc, i think the old shellac is as good as any .
Agreed the application of gasket sealant is different in every situation. I personally cut my own gaskets if it is (feasible) other wise just buy the OEM stuff. I try to not use sealant unless specified.. But if I do it's generally around the bolt holes just as a tack until I can get the part bolted down. If you have your matting surface all wonky and think you can fill it with sealant that is not a cure. I like permatex gasket sealant. But as stated generally just to tack a gasket. Used very sparingly. Thank for the video
Agreed and yes, use sparingly! Most folks put WAY too much sealant on - ya only need a bit, ya muppits!
The definitive answer is: whatever the service manual tells you to do. Of course the trouble with modern bikes is getting access to the manuals. Generally speaking, some sealant around where the crankcase halves mate on side covers is good practice.
Some sealant on the mentioned surfaces above IS NOT good practice. That's the point I was making.
You say that newer bikes manuals are hard to get hold of? Are you serious? Now if you mean for free, then yes.
I used to have a classic 1956 Triumph Tiger T110 pre-unit and it was impossible to get most gaskets, so I bought special gasket paper, and smeared a thin film of margarine onto the alloy cover, and pressed it onto the paper which left an accurate imprint, and cut the gaskets by hand with super sharp tailors scissors...I had an oil tight Trumpy!
Matt, another reason for not adding sealant is to avoid the mess it makes. I had a co worker, use RTV an oil pump to hold the O-ring type gasket in place, the RTV ended up plugging the oil passages, and the rest is history, the engine starved for oil.
The shop ended owning the engine. I use vaseline as gasket dressing ,to hold gaskets in place, less messy, and if you have to redo the work, all you have to do is just peel off the gasket, and it comes off in one piece, no scraping, just wipe off the the matting surface... my 2 cent's...
Did he let it cure? I have some and if it did that after curing I won’t use it
I've currently got a cardboard gasket from a Nutri Grain box because I was in a pinch, haven't needed to change it yet... I mean, if I happen to run into a bit of money,I will of course get a new gasket, but it does work well
what ever you do-do, don't do what deldo
but seriously, i cut many out of cereal boxes and stuck them on with vaseline (2t)
"i've got loads of fans, Wheeey!" LOL
Putting a shit ton of sealant on the gasket isn't usually a great idea since it can technically change the clearance between the parts you're sealing. The only situation I personally use stuff like silicone sealant is when the gasket surface of the metal part is in bad condition and is likely to leak with just the paper gasket.
Why do most naturally aspirated 4-stroke enginges have a peak tourqe at roughly 100Nm/litre? Just by looking at official numbers, most engines have similar peak torque performance no matter of number of cylinders or displacement. A long stroke single/twin would likely generate vastly more torqe. Form my simpe googeling, most multi cylinder short stroke engines seems to make equal peak torqe? Am I wrong or is there a explenation on this topic?
very good question - I'll have to do a video
Answer, torque per litre correlates with volumetric efficiency, which for naturally aspirated engines results in a max of Around 110Nm/L, stroke isn’t a part of it, for displacement, any change in Stroke is proportional to the change in piston area.
Wow, what?
@@dirtygarageguy If you look at many four Stroke engines you will see the highest performance naturally aspirated engines of different backgrounds come in around 110Nm/L, and they are always the high performance/horsepower versions, not the so called high torque versions.
The super short stroke v8/v10 F1 engines that reached 20k RPM and the relatively long stroke road legal 2001 BMW E46 M3 make similar torque per litre, (NA) Volumetric Efficiency pretty much peaks at 120% no matter how good you are, the trick to making power is #1 make this torque output, #2 make it at high RPM.
Stroke length doesn’t have the effect on torque people think it does because for same size engines the leverage effect of the crank shaft is directly oppositely proportional to the axial gas force supplied by the area of the piston.
Short stroke engines have large pistons, so while the short stroke crank has less leverage, the larger piston pushes it harder.
Long stroke engines might have good leverage from the piston force, but the smaller piston has less force to begin with, and the effects are proportional, so apart from a little mechanical efficiency change, there is no winner.
So torque really comes down to how much air you are flowing, and the RPM you are doing.
Long stroke = high torque is BS.
High volumetric efficiency = torque = reality.
All comments relate to specific torque output per engine displacement.
Past my Bed time 💤
The gasket schmoo can act as a lubricant resulting in the gasket splitting and being squeezed out of the gap it's meant to fill.
Matt I remember working for a guy who was too cheap to replace gaskets and he used to tell us to cover gaskets and seals and o rings in sealent if we were re using them or if they were new even the ammount of issues and comebacks we had was mental 😂😂😂 some people there is no talking to
The amount of dirtbikes I bought with rtv squeezing out on every gasket surface. Some people think every gasket needs a load of rtv new or old gaskets 😂 yes Its probably a American v8 thing
Hey Matt... I'm about to buy a 4 stroke scooter made of chinesium... is it gonna hurt something to put just a tiny bit of oil in the tank along with the fuel? does it actually help in any way, shape or form?
Yes it will help to make you look like one of them cool 2-stroke boys with their white smoke exhaust
If it's a 4 stroke, just fill it up with standard fuel. Oil in the fuel tank (or separate mixer tank) is for 2 stroke. Put oil where it's supposed to have oil and fuel where it's supposed to have fuel.
Forever Computing k thanks
alles klar klaus funny thing is im tired of having to mix oil and fuel... i just wanted to know, if it helps the engine in any way.. if it did i would do it but aparently it doesnt so whatever
"is it gonna hurt something to put just a tiny bit of oil in the tank along with the fuel?"
- where did you hear this? Isaac said something similar.
I'll do a video. Cheers for the comment - and to answer - no don't put oil in the tank.
Out of University my first job was at a test facility. The senior night shift guy was on vacation so I was tasked with baby sitting the ammonia cooling system and top off these little hoppers with mineral oil because there is literally engineered oil leaks, "controlled weeping" they called it.
They also said, if this cooling system runs away, it will take out the city (I assume he means the toxic release of gasses would evacuate the city).
I’m have a big headache with my 2004 ktm exc I’ve just replaced the gasket and still having an oil leak so I’ve just used some gasket sealant I’m literally waiting on it to dry such a headache
One of my engines recently started running rough at idle and midrange, but is fine at high revs. I checked all the obvious stuff including spark plugs and wiring, starting to suspect injectors. Can you talk about fuel injector cleaning? Any preference for additive products or should I have the injectors removed and washed with ultrasonic instead?
Just ripped a gasket rebuilding the top and my 125 pit bike yesterday this video is perfect timing definitely gonna try some of that gasket board stuff fuck paying for a whole new gasket set and waiting for shipping
perfectly good information love the attitude thanks
I have been told by some old timers is that you can use leather as a gasket never have done it myself but I can see it working.
How much is a sheet of leather? I'm interested in trying that for my 110cc bike.
@@nuclearwinter21 Don't know but I bet it's slot cheaper than a sheet of plywood lol
A friend's father used old marine charts to make gaskets. Marine charts are resistant to water, oil, etc. so worked just fine on motor vehicles, outboard motors, bike engines.
I prefer "weetabixoid" gasket card :D
Any idea why a new gasket would leak? I checked and it was properly seated but idk why it was leaking makes no sense.
1. Cheap gasket
2. Surface very uneven
3. Torqued incorrectly
Isnt that like saying use some glue when u caulk things?
Can I cut that gasket card with a sharp craft knife on a piece of glass, and get a half decent result?
Yes you can - the main difficulty is the holes
Cheers man.
I was thinking standard stationary hole punch, until reading your response. Then I remembered the industrial-like tailor/seamstress hole punches me dear Nana used to use while making clothes... 1 sec...
Amazon do a cheap leather hole punch, not sure if it ill be as precise as the stationary version though, but it does have multiple sizes. Up from there, are £50 die looking things for goldsmiths..? lol
Hmmm, maybe an experiment is due.
I've got a suggestion for a topic: why did older bikes leak oil so much more? Better sealants now? Gaskets? Or engine design? Better casting? Just guessing here. I'd think it would make a nice topic!
all of the above.
I would only use aviation non hardening gasket glue, never silicone, on gasketless joints (rocker cover and center case on most bikes) or if I have to reuse an old gasket, but expect never to use again
But must used very thin and sparingly
Just bought the bottom end of a Varadero engine (from your part of the world) that failed due to the oil not reaching the cams. Why? Because the original owner (not the guy I bought it from) refitted the heads with great Delboy style gobs of sealant on the gaskets. It oozed out and totally blocked the fucking oilways! It's a no brainer.
I used to put grease on them. That makes it easier to remove the case again during reassembly) if you need to. After the engine gets hot enough, the grease bakes off with no ill effects in my experience.
White 2/3/4 sheet board in A3 is even cheaper.
The only thing I can say about this video is that your grandad was a wise man 👍👍👍
Nobody taught me, I was wandering around a car parts shop and saw "gasket paper"
I found somewhere that actually sold sheets of it. Thinking of the money saved, but time spent cutting and trimming.
We'll go through cutting a gasket out soon.
The Workshop I'm sure you will hammer that out quickly
My advice about gaskets, buy oem ones and install on clean dry surfaces. Oem gasket usually already have sealants in them and always fit perfectly. Non oem are junk, either they are to big or to small tear easy, by then you are using extra sealant because its shit.
they invented hylomar because of the merlin engine. it had such loose tolerances they needed a custom sealant to stop the leaking. that is the British version lol the U.S. built merlin engines had no need for hylomar as the machining was of a higher quality.
LOL nice try with the bullshit. I used to machine parts for re-conditioned merline engines. This is utter bollocks. Hylomar was developed by Rolls-Royce but in the 60's by the Rolls-Royce Aerospace division. Its was developed for the mating surfaces in the gearbox housing for the Avon engine.
It used to be called SQ32 and then later called PL32.
So back to the bollocks. It was nothing to do with machining - it was to do with mass production. Merlin engines at rolls-royce were hand built. The fit was down to the machinists that built the engine. In other words the machinists made the raw casting and components 'fit' together.
This meant that the tolerances on the drawing were 'loose' rough cut dimentions from the manufacturing plants and the machinists would do the rest. Matching each component to each other.
Packard Motor Company didn't work like this. They required draws that spelled it out for them what the tolerances had to be. Ford turned down bulding the Merlin in part due to this fact.
If anything the machining from Packard was worse, with several planetary gears binding up in the second stage charger transfer set. Pilots would report the second stage nearly stalling the engine.
The Workshop lol nice try with your bullocks reply to back your bullocks. If you would do some simple research you will see that I am right. also if you are not aware merlin engines are aircraft motors so you are confirming what I said. yes that was part of rolls royce's aerospace division. here is a quote from hylomar's website. also it wasnt invented by rolls Royce it was valco that made it for them. "The original product was developed in conjunction with Rolls-Royce and was used for sealing aircraft engines. Hylomar continues to manufacture Rolls-Royce approved products for sealing aeronautical turbines." hylomar was developed in the late 30's early 40's to seal mateing faces on the RR Merlin engine as the machineing was not that good, to stop them leaking, they never really had the same problems with the Packard Merlins (US made) as the machining tolerences were a lot finer (Newer machine tools). no shit the Packard company had to have drawers to make an engine for another company based off of the tolerances they set. that's how any company works that has to sub out work they can't handle. The Packard company just made it closer to the tolerances on paper than the original manufacturer.
Adam Z valco state that it was developed in the late 50's (so that would be the meteor piston engine) www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.valco-hylomarproducts.com/history%2520of%2520hylomar%2520blue.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwifxJeKia3cAhXK_qQKHUENAAMQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw2b8_zLrLLdo1a9IXivl9pn and hylomar state on their website that it was developed in conjunction with rr plc in the 60's for use on early jet engines as a seal for synthetic lubricants. www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html curious of your back ground have u ever touched a Merlin engine? I'm thinking your butt hurt that the p51 was shit until it got the Merlin? Or was it the comment about the shite stoneage v8's?
Stan Mil PL 32 or the first commercial for sale aerograde hylomar was in the 60 that I give you. That's the 32nd version though and for sale to the public lol not just used in rolls Royce factories. the original was used in the late 30's early 40's on the British shite merlins that were poorly machined.
Ronnie Harker, a Rolls-Royce service liaison pilot, was invited by the RAF to try an early example when it arrived in the UK. He reported that 'It should prove itself a formidable low and mid altitude fighter. It closely resembles the Me.190F, probably due to its being designed by one of the Messerschmitt designers, who is now with the North American Aeroplane Co. [The book points out although Edgar Schmued came from Germany, he never worked for Messerschmitt]. The point which strikes me is that with a powerful and good engine like the Merlin 61, its performance should be outstanding, as it is 35 mph faster than a Spitfire V at roughly the same power'.
Rolls-Royce then set about trial fitting of Merlins to Mustangs at their Hucknall development centre, the first example flying in October 1942. Separate development took place in the USA.
Although there was no difficulty in principle in accommodating the compact Merlin in the airframe, dealing with problems of engine and oil cooling and air admission proved interesting. That's when " hylomar", which wasn't called hylomar at the time, came into play. sheep 🐑
Adam Z links as evidence? Then again your in to chem trails and stuff so as a tinfoil hat wearer do you have any credibility? Is the earth flat?
the murican v8 boys gonna get so angry about what you said xD
Aircraft are the only good thing the septics make
right, my hemi was assembled in mexico, lol
My V8 designed , engineered and cast.. in the Uk.. in my Merican car. Not sure how to feel
I just use 50/50 water oil in my gaskets, because i dont have a torke wrench, this way the extra Nm's can slip away!
There's glycerine in there somewhere.
Gasgacinch works great old school.
Cheers Matt I do what I like 🤣🤣 but I use silicone on a lot of gaskets but the real issue is that you only need the thinnest smear of it if you do use it. I currently have a 1600 Suzuki escudo here that has been rebuilt recently ( fuckin botch up as it currently has the head off and been very hot shortly after this " rebuild ") the fuckin amount of orange sealant that's squished outs 10mm protruding off the motor in places and comes off like a rope when you peel it off. I'm betting the pickups just full of the crap.
"real issue is that you only need the thinnest smear of it if you do use it."
- So what is it doing?
@@dirtygarageguyit does help it seal and doesn't cause an issue if you just use enough to stick shit together. I did a water pump on a mitsi diamante v6 ( nightmare job ) and it leaked after I put it together using only a gasket so after that I take no chances🤣🤣.
Hylomar works great in the right application, rebuilt a rover k series engine, use hylomar to seal the shims required to raise the wet liners etc, stinks like a pensioners unwashed fanny tho
just oil on the clutch and oil pan
Blue hylomar on your gaskets will stop them sticking
but it sucks if it is like the middle case gasked which now is dripping after i put the engine back together and in my bike id have to drop the fucking engine again and take everything apart and then add sealant to the fucking gasket😡😡
Can you be any less prepared???
Probably.
Flex-tard paper 2.0 ...good shit!!!
You’ve obviously never worked on or built an American V8 engine!
But those are shit engines... I'm talking about good ones.
Uh smh
you do not need fucking sealant. ..
..
First
First