Very very good info. Diagnosis steps are accurate and led me to the fix which was the fan control module. Another good hint I learned also is if the fan motors have seized it takes out the control module also. And Thank you!
Id love to see you take the knock off apart and do a side by side comparison of the components just to see where they cheaped out and if its at all salvageable for people that can solder
Quick question for you. I’ve got a 2010 TDI hatchback, and with summer coming up, I checked my aircon. It works, but the air coming out of the vents isn't that cold. I had a quick look and noticed the aircon condenser fan isn’t spinning when it's on. I set the temp to LO, expecting the fan to kick in. Am I misunderstanding something? Cheers!
Great video. Is this similar to a 2011 Volkswagen CC? Currently I’m attempting to diagnose an issue with my AC. The vehicle has good fuses and the fans seem to work when I do an output test with my OBD11. I also removed and put 12v on the AC solenoid that’s attached to the AC and it clicks which makes me think its functioning correctly. Still no AC. I did realize that when I hook up the Freon bottle with gauge, it shows it’s overfilled almost max out. Any suggestions?
You have to check several components. Make sure both fans are on and it’s not suppose to be overfilled. Check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging and disengaging. Make sure the blower is working and it’s blowing air inside the car thru the vents. If all of that is good you might have a problem with other components like compressor, condenser, orifice, valves. Or it might even be electrical. I recommend you look at one of those UA-cam videos on how the A/C works, determine what kind of system you have and go from there.
This is a very basic question (Because I don't know much about electronics), but what should the reading be at the fuses? Is it going to be ~12.5 v? or is it different because of the resistance in the fuses? I'm getting ~ 5.7v at both #5 & #16 that's with the car on and the A/C turned on
@@mysterygarageCA still troubleshooting this. I've replaced the module (junk yard pull) but still nothing. I've checked and replaced both fans, but I'm not getting power at the fan connectors. I mean I guess it's possible I've got two bad modules, but I dunno. Hard to drop $400 without knowing .
@@mysterygarageCA would they be in the center near the controls? I pulled the wires off the sensor and I can power the fan's there. It's pretty much a guessing game. or maybe I just don't know what I'm doing.
@@John-d5i8v The thick one is the one the compressor sucks from and thin one is where all the pressure goes to. If you turn on your A/C make sure both fans are on. If not, your problem might be the main relay or a sensor that is on the upper radiator hose. It’s round and has two wire connector.
@@mysterygarageCA I know my problem the line that goes from the accumulator to the condenser has a break from rubbing the serpentine belt. Just trying to see if it’s the suction or discharge line on the ac so I can replace it. Oddly there’s no vids or nothing on the topic
@@John-d5i8v I see. But they are called the high pressure side or low pressure side. Look it up online as the high pressure or low pressure and compare them to see which one you need.
Pin 9 is power coming from the fuse box on the driver side. Open driver door and on left hand side of dash there will be a fuse box. Check fuse #5. Is a 7.5 amp fuse. If it blows again check you pressure switch on the main line behind firewall or the sensor on upper radiator hose. In front of engine.
@@mysterygarageCA You say anywhere but I've searched a lot and haven't found my 2008 Rabbit. My owners manual is not even close to what's in the car. It looks like 16 and 5 but I guess testing all of them would be a start.
Very very good info. Diagnosis steps are accurate and led me to the fix which was the fan control module. Another good hint I learned also is if the fan motors have seized it takes out the control module also. And Thank you!
I’m glad, that’s something new to me about the fan motors.
Id love to see you take the knock off apart and do a side by side comparison of the components just to see where they cheaped out and if its at all salvageable for people that can solder
That's a great looking New Beetle! Thanks.
Thank you for an informative lesson!
Very good video. Good information, thank you
Quick question for you. I’ve got a 2010 TDI hatchback, and with summer coming up, I checked my aircon. It works, but the air coming out of the vents isn't that cold. I had a quick look and noticed the aircon condenser fan isn’t spinning when it's on. I set the temp to LO, expecting the fan to kick in. Am I misunderstanding something?
Cheers!
@@getmespam in most systems both fans should turn on. Check fuses and relays
Great video. Would you be able to tell me the manufacturer and possibly the model of the power probe you are using ?
@@jimpomarico2831 is the one they sell at harbor freight
When you check the compressor itself on pin 10 do you have to have the ignition key and the air turned on?
@@jimpomarico2831 yes
Excellent diagnosis, thank you. What is that probe you're using? I need to get me one.
Power probe 3
Great job! Thank you. Remember to give the wrench sizes.
For sure!
Great video. Is this similar to a 2011 Volkswagen CC? Currently I’m attempting to diagnose an issue with my AC. The vehicle has good fuses and the fans seem to work when I do an output test with my OBD11. I also removed and put 12v on the AC solenoid that’s attached to the AC and it clicks which makes me think its functioning correctly. Still no AC. I did realize that when I hook up the Freon bottle with gauge, it shows it’s overfilled almost max out. Any suggestions?
You have to check several components. Make sure both fans are on and it’s not suppose to be overfilled. Check to see if the compressor clutch is engaging and disengaging. Make sure the blower is working and it’s blowing air inside the car thru the vents. If all of that is good you might have a problem with other components like compressor, condenser, orifice, valves. Or it might even be electrical. I recommend you look at one of those UA-cam videos on how the A/C works, determine what kind of system you have and go from there.
This is a very basic question (Because I don't know much about electronics), but what should the reading be at the fuses? Is it going to be ~12.5 v? or is it different because of the resistance in the fuses? I'm getting ~ 5.7v at both #5 & #16 that's with the car on and the A/C turned on
@@pcdreams1 should be over 12v
@@mysterygarageCA still troubleshooting this. I've replaced the module (junk yard pull) but still nothing. I've checked and replaced both fans, but I'm not getting power at the fan connectors. I mean I guess it's possible I've got two bad modules, but I dunno. Hard to drop $400 without knowing .
@@pcdreams1 there’s also two relay under the dash
@@mysterygarageCA would they be in the center near the controls? I pulled the wires off the sensor and I can power the fan's there. It's pretty much a guessing game. or maybe I just don't know what I'm doing.
Is the ac suction line the one on top of the accumulator/little can.
It runs from the top of the can to the front of the radiator/condenser.
It’s always the thick one. The thin one is the pressure hose
@@mysterygarageCA so the thin one is the discharge line
@@John-d5i8v The thick one is the one the compressor sucks from and thin one is where all the pressure goes to. If you turn on your A/C make sure both fans are on. If not, your problem might be the main relay or a sensor that is on the upper radiator hose. It’s round and has two wire connector.
@@mysterygarageCA I know my problem the line that goes from the accumulator to the condenser has a break from rubbing the serpentine belt. Just trying to see if it’s the suction or discharge line on the ac so I can replace it. Oddly there’s no vids or nothing on the topic
@@John-d5i8v I see. But they are called the high pressure side or low pressure side. Look it up online as the high pressure or low pressure and compare them to see which one you need.
I don’t have power at pin 9, what could be the problem?
Pin 9 is power coming from the fuse box on the driver side. Open driver door and on left hand side of dash there will be a fuse box. Check fuse #5. Is a 7.5 amp fuse. If it blows again check you pressure switch on the main line behind firewall or the sensor on upper radiator hose. In front of engine.
Where'd you get the wire diagram from?
Mitchell on demand
Where did you get the fuse map and wiring diagram?
Fuse map anywhere online. Diagram I have software called On Demand. But you can cut a repair manual from autozone for $18.
@@mysterygarageCA You say anywhere but I've searched a lot and haven't found my 2008 Rabbit. My owners manual is not even close to what's in the car. It looks like 16 and 5 but I guess testing all of them would be a start.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n I’ll check tomorrow see if I have it I can send it to you. What’s the year make model and engine?
@@mysterygarageCA 2008 VW Rabbit 2.5 (not PZEV the other one) 4 door automatic. Thanks
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n let me see if I can get those for you!
Great video. It help me
Thank you for watching!
I don’t have power at pin 9, what could be the problem?