“If you don’t have any common sense” ........my ears perked up to listen to what came next............great video. I’m doing mine next week. Good to watch a few of these. Great job
Recommend anyone having a similar problem with their Slant Fin boiler watch this video since the presenter does a fantastic job of breaking down each step of the replacement procedure and offering useful advice along the way. We provide genuine Slant Fin heater coil and other Slant Fin spare parts.
FYI two improvements that will make your life a lot easier are a Tiger loop and a new Aquastat. Having done this job those should be a cinch; you could plow some of the money you saved into those upgrades. The upgraded units are more efficient due to tech changes in the monitoring systems. Thanks for this; I have a dedicated water heater but its piped into the burner, now tracking an issue with PRV spitting troubling amounts of water under load. PS I love your style; its irreverent and iconic! Stay true!
My father in-laws hot water sucks but has good flow. Replaced the mix valve it was toasted but needs a coil. The company that cleans his furnace said just replace the 10 year old furnace for 5k.
I love the new videos. Thank you so much for the uploads. I live in Holden maine and work in Bar harbor. I enjoy watching all of your videos with my girlfriend, we were both wondering when you start your 2017 season?
Nice job, I have to do the same replacement for a friend. I was going to try and clean out the tubes but after seeing the buildup I decided against it. Glad I saw your video first.
Good job! I'm on my second one after ten years. Did you let the custom seal cure first? Last time I did it, it got really messy and leaked. Had to redo it. That's the only thing that makes this project hard. Other than frozen bolts. I out PB on bolts first and replaced with new stainless.
Stainless nuts an bolts will not undo if put tight. The threads pull. Have to cut. If the holes are threaded into cast iron or steel stainless bolts will freeze solid
thanks for posting this! I did this job yesterday and the rubber gasket was pushed out from contact due to wet silicone pretty bad. I noticed that you have a similar problem. That concerns me as about 1/2 of the gasket is gone which means that it may leak. When it leaks, I think I will be better off not using silicone. Any thoughts?
Every time I hear someone in the house turn off the water from full stream to nothing fast and the water pipes do the hammer time I always wonder if all the pipes I sweat together in the basement are going to pop apart.
I have seen a few usa videos of plumber replacing these due to no hot water. My NYT OIL boiler has the same coil as to my water to air heat exchangers. As a dealer for heat Master ss out door wood heater an installer you have domestic hot water coils broze plate heat exchangers pool an hot tub water to water heating coils. Dryer water to air rads . So many kinds even coil grain dryers. Hell if you replace them every time they stop performing 100% you go broke. All these coils need cleaning minimum once a year. Some more then that as it don't take much of a scale build up to slow heat transfer down. My coils heat all my domestic hot water on demand plus heats my in floor cement an wood sub floor forced air. You have to plumb every coil with a ball valve on the in and out water feed. Put a copper tee between the coil an ball valve. Install a female 3/4" copper to Npt an screw in a boiler drain. 2 washing machine hoses buy a cheap submersible sump pump that a garden hose screws onto put it in a 5 gallon bucket. Turn off the 2 ball valve on in an out water feeds hook up the 2 washing machine hoses one to each boiler drain. Hook one of the hoses to the sump pump an just put the other hose into the bucket. An no don't even try to use CLR. NO GOOD. You buy a gallon of Dairy Queen from your local plumbing outlet or Restaurant supply store . Open the 2 Boyter dreams after you close the ball valves pour the gallon into the bucket. Do not add water. Start pump an run 20 min. Now reverse the 2 hoses. An flush it back words for 20 min. You will see chunks come out. Lift the bucket up higher then the coil an pump for 1 min keep pail up high an let it sock for half hour make sure the cleaner stays in the coil then lower bucket an run pump again for 10 min as pump is running lift it out of bucket an put it into a full fresh water bucket an let it flush the cleaner out. You only need to flush your domestic hot water coil or broze heat exchanger with fresh water. Turn pump off let coil drain. Turn off the 2 boiler drains an open the 2 ball valves. You don't need to flush clean water though any of your heating coils just the cleaner. If you plumb every coil this way The maintenance is simple I also plum everything including the tempering valve Using unions This way when a part has to be replaced you're not cutting pipe support you just undo the unions and put the stubb tails from the part onto the new part and put it back together
You have to clean back flush all these gas an electric domestic hot water on demand coils once a year for warranty. Valid. No different. Your always going to get a thin coating of scale. Ppl on wells even with water softeners get it worse. I have customer I have to clean every coil an broze plate heat exchanger once every 2 to 3 months they refuse to do it them self. You don't need to shut the boiler off so house stays warm at 40 below
I definitely have my limitations, you on the other hand, have none as far as i can see....But i give you thanks because i draw inspiration from you guys!
Bravo! Have you checked the fitting for corrosion from electrolysis? Mine are all eaten away. I noticed you used copper male adapters like mine. I hate to put this thought in your head but copper to steel is sometimes a problem. I'm looking at replacing the ones I have with what they call dielectric ones. They separate the steel from your copper pipe with an insulating washer. I'm still searching for info and I don't know why the copper coil does not corrode in contact with the steel plate and fitting. Maybe because it's brazed on. I'm wondering if anyone here would know about this stuff. I don't want to see your hard work have to be repeated. Keep an eye on it in the next 6 months to a year and see what's going on. Apparently, this problem pops up only sometimes. Good job and good luck.
I taked the pipes off from my domestic hot water coil. Is all black inside. Do you think i need to replace it. Youla i replaced the relif valve to. Can you help me with that?
I try to remove the tub from wher the equastast goes for the termoatat. But i loose and try to take it off and water comes out. Do you know why. Can you help me with that??
Great job, I have a questions, I tried to remove the coil cover in my unit, and water start to dripping is that normal? Last year I cancelled the coil and install a water heater.
Did all that work and never showed us the final result as to how much water was coming out of faucet after complete. I wanted to see what the final result was instead I got a beer bottle.
I put 1/2 unions on mine ten years ago so saved me a cut. But now I'm watching cause mine is ten years old. These coils suck. It's just a bad design and the 120max mixing valve is a joke. Domestic never gets above 120 unless its brand spanking new. Need 140 degree mixing valve!
Sorry to rain on your parade, why not show your followers how to unscrew the aqua stat from the well and hoe to remove the well, by passed those steps. Also, ever seen coil bolts come off so easy, and what happens if one happens to snaps in the boiler. Oh well, good video, playing devils advocate.
@@PLAYwithGregg I've seen several, and although they don't show the actual tool on the fastener, it sounds like it's a single nut on the bottom of the aquastat and possibly another fastener on the side somewhere. Definitely a nut on the bottom though.
“If you don’t have any common sense” ........my ears perked up to listen to what came next............great video. I’m doing mine next week. Good to watch a few of these. Great job
Just wanted to say I watched your video a few times and I did a successful replacement of the gasket here. Appreciate you doing this so I could learn
Nice work! Reassuring I can do it myself. Thanks for uploading! $$$ saved!
you crack me up dude nicely done
Fantastic job!
Outstanding diy video!
Thanks so much....
I have to do mine also leaking at the seal. Thanks for the tutorial. Its summer now furnace off so now is a good time before it gets cold in NY
Nice job! Mine broke Also after watching your video I may attempt myself. Thanks for posting!
He made it look so easy.
Recommend anyone having a similar problem with their Slant Fin boiler watch this video since the presenter does a fantastic job of breaking down each step of the replacement procedure and offering useful advice along the way. We provide genuine Slant Fin heater coil and other Slant Fin spare parts.
So glad you are back! How about an update on your Shepherd?
Awesome job buddy
FYI two improvements that will make your life a lot easier are a Tiger loop and a new Aquastat. Having done this job those should be a cinch; you could plow some of the money you saved into those upgrades. The upgraded units are more efficient due to tech changes in the monitoring systems. Thanks for this; I have a dedicated water heater but its piped into the burner, now tracking an issue with PRV spitting troubling amounts of water under load. PS I love your style; its irreverent and iconic! Stay true!
My father in-laws hot water sucks but has good flow. Replaced the mix valve it was toasted but needs a coil. The company that cleans his furnace said just replace the 10 year old furnace for 5k.
Great video thanks for posting
Nice job.
nice job john.
Great Job!!!
Thanks for watching
I love the new videos. Thank you so much for the uploads. I live in Holden maine and work in Bar harbor. I enjoy watching all of your videos with my girlfriend, we were both wondering when you start your 2017 season?
I could start anytime, but it is usually a couple months of shore work on the gear and boat then start setting in late May.
Great job great video
Nice job, I am on my 2nd coil I see we are both Dead River customers. I also have the Presidential plan the only exclusion is the hot water coil.
No one knows how to fix anything anymore so these companies can charge what ever they want, most well pay, good job.
So true!
Nice job, I have to do the same replacement for a friend. I was going to try and clean out the tubes but after seeing the buildup I decided against it. Glad I saw your video first.
I hope next gen boilers came up with something easier to replace than this.
nice video
Ty for the video, hod did you remove the combi control?
Fantastic thanks
My compliments.
Good job! I'm on my second one after ten years. Did you let the custom seal cure first? Last time I did it, it got really messy and leaked. Had to redo it. That's the only thing that makes this project hard. Other than frozen bolts. I out PB on bolts first and replaced with new stainless.
Stainless nuts an bolts will not undo if put tight. The threads pull. Have to cut. If the holes are threaded into cast iron or steel stainless bolts will freeze solid
It's a dry well where the probe goes in
thanks for posting this!
I did this job yesterday and the rubber gasket was pushed out from contact due to wet silicone pretty bad. I noticed that you have a similar problem. That concerns me as about 1/2 of the gasket is gone which means that it may leak. When it leaks, I think I will be better off not using silicone. Any thoughts?
Mine has been over a year and never has leaked
Better to solder the first piece of pipe onto the male adapters before you thread them into the coil.Less chance of getting a leak at the threads.
Good job, John! Time to boil up some lobster to celebrate.
Be a while before that happens!...I'm still in snowmobile mode!
Do you think you could have used Pex and Shark Bite fittings to plumb the new coil or would it be to hot even for hot water rated PEX
I'm sure you could.
master plumber here good for you right choice get her don easy peezy. you got this
nice video, thanks! what is the torque on those 6 bolts, do you know?
I just snugged them up good
Every time I hear someone in the house turn off the water from full stream to nothing fast and the water pipes do the hammer time I always wonder if all the pipes I sweat together in the basement are going to pop apart.
Lol
A+ thanks
I have seen a few usa videos of plumber replacing these due to no hot water. My NYT OIL boiler has the same coil as to my water to air heat exchangers. As a dealer for heat Master ss out door wood heater an installer you have domestic hot water coils broze plate heat exchangers pool an hot tub water to water heating coils. Dryer water to air rads . So many kinds even coil grain dryers. Hell if you replace them every time they stop performing 100% you go broke. All these coils need cleaning minimum once a year. Some more then that as it don't take much of a scale build up to slow heat transfer down. My coils heat all my domestic hot water on demand plus heats my in floor cement an wood sub floor forced air. You have to plumb every coil with a ball valve on the in and out water feed. Put a copper tee between the coil an ball valve. Install a female 3/4" copper to Npt an screw in a boiler drain. 2 washing machine hoses buy a cheap submersible sump pump that a garden hose screws onto put it in a 5 gallon bucket. Turn off the 2 ball valve on in an out water feeds hook up the 2 washing machine hoses one to each boiler drain. Hook one of the hoses to the sump pump an just put the other hose into the bucket. An no don't even try to use CLR. NO GOOD. You buy a gallon of Dairy Queen from your local plumbing outlet or Restaurant supply store . Open the 2 Boyter dreams after you close the ball valves pour the gallon into the bucket. Do not add water. Start pump an run 20 min. Now reverse the 2 hoses. An flush it back words for 20 min. You will see chunks come out. Lift the bucket up higher then the coil an pump for 1 min keep pail up high an let it sock for half hour make sure the cleaner stays in the coil then lower bucket an run pump again for 10 min as pump is running lift it out of bucket an put it into a full fresh water bucket an let it flush the cleaner out. You only need to flush your domestic hot water coil or broze heat exchanger with fresh water. Turn pump off let coil drain. Turn off the 2 boiler drains an open the 2 ball valves. You don't need to flush clean water though any of your heating coils just the cleaner. If you plumb every coil this way The maintenance is simple I also plum everything including the tempering valve Using unions This way when a part has to be replaced you're not cutting pipe support you just undo the unions and put the stubb tails from the part onto the new part and put it back together
You have to clean back flush all these gas an electric domestic hot water on demand coils once a year for warranty. Valid. No different. Your always going to get a thin coating of scale. Ppl on wells even with water softeners get it worse. I have customer I have to clean every coil an broze plate heat exchanger once every 2 to 3 months they refuse to do it them self. You don't need to shut the boiler off so house stays warm at 40 below
You're an Animal Capt!! there ain't nothing we can't do eh!!☺
I definitely have my limitations, you on the other hand, have none as far as i can see....But i give you thanks because i draw inspiration from you guys!
I have to Replace the coil on mi boiler Do i have to Replace the Relif valve. Do you know?
I didn't, can't imagine why you would need to if not leaking
Bravo! Have you checked the fitting for corrosion from electrolysis? Mine are all eaten away. I noticed you used copper male adapters like mine. I hate to put this thought in your head but copper to steel is sometimes a problem. I'm looking at replacing the ones I have with what they call dielectric ones. They separate the steel from your copper pipe with an insulating washer. I'm still searching for info and I don't know why the copper coil does not corrode in contact with the steel plate and fitting. Maybe because it's brazed on. I'm wondering if anyone here would know about this stuff. I don't want to see your hard work have to be repeated. Keep an eye on it in the next 6 months to a year and see what's going on. Apparently, this problem pops up only sometimes. Good job and good luck.
Been a year and a half, no issues so far.
@@CaptJohnsBar dielectric fittings are overrated, not particularly effective in most sitations.
i have an issue with not getting hot water alot of time. could it be the coil?
The mixer.
Can I just keep mine in and cap it off and run a new natural gas water heater?
Yes, no problem capping it off.
I taked the pipes off from my domestic hot water coil. Is all black inside. Do you think i need to replace it. Youla i replaced the relif valve to. Can you help me with that?
If it's not blocked with crap i wouldn't
Is all black inside seens like is not clogeed. I am not sure of i need to feplace the coil
I wouldn't
Capt. John's Bar thanks for your help see what i can do. Your video is very helpful
I try to remove the tub from wher the equastast goes for the termoatat. But i loose and try to take it off and water comes out. Do you know why. Can you help me with that??
Is only water in the coil and that's it. Is that right or am I wrong but that's me?
Correct.
Great job, I have a questions, I tried to remove the coil cover in my unit, and water start to dripping is that normal? Last year I cancelled the coil and install a water heater.
did you just empty to water in the coil and cap it?
Did all that work and never showed us the final result as to how much water was coming out of faucet after complete. I wanted to see what the final result was instead I got a beer bottle.
Just dandy.
What holds the control box in?
A clip
dont laugh at me for this stupid question im new to homeownership,is that oil or gas?
oil burner hot water baseboard heater with a domestic hot water coil
Good information but, painful to watch
I have a place two seconds from on house that cleans them for $20
I put 1/2 unions on mine ten years ago so saved me a cut. But now I'm watching cause mine is ten years old. These coils suck. It's just a bad design and the 120max mixing valve is a joke. Domestic never gets above 120 unless its brand spanking new. Need 140 degree mixing valve!
Sorry to rain on your parade, why not show your followers how to unscrew the aqua stat from the well and hoe to remove the well, by passed those steps. Also, ever seen coil bolts come off so easy, and what happens if one happens to snaps in the boiler. Oh well, good video, playing devils advocate.
I've been on the hunt for a video showing how to remove the box on the coil. Everybody skips it.
@@PLAYwithGregg I've seen several, and although they don't show the actual tool on the fastener, it sounds like it's a single nut on the bottom of the aquastat and possibly another fastener on the side somewhere. Definitely a nut on the bottom though.