Sediment Buster Unclogs, Flushes AND Drains a Water Heater Tank like you've never seen before
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- Опубліковано 17 чер 2024
- Sediment Buster simplifies water heater cleaning whether you are Flushing or Draining.
What is the difference between flushing and draining and how does Sediment Buster help?
1. Flushing utilizes full water pressure to push out water and some sediment. When flushing, Sediment Buster will break through initial clogs with ease.
2. Draining is completely removing the water and sediment from a depressurized, vented tank. Sediment Buster stirs, lifts and vacuum sucks sediment and water out together.
In this video, you will see both happening back to back. When I shot this video, I wasn't sure what was going to happen. We actually captured a live clog being broken loose by the Sediment Buster. We also drained out a full strainer of sediment as you will also see. - Навчання та стиль
What do you think? www.amazon.com/stores/SedimentBuster/page/636B5426-16FA-4FE3-806A-22EDB36F94C0?ref_=ast_bln
I have to make a suggestion. When your ready to fill the tank back up, go around to all faucets and remove the aerators. Otherwise you may end up clogging one with sediment that might not have gotten flushed out with everything else. Better safe than sorry.
That is a great suggestion. We had a customer claim this happened to him. However, I believe the issue was his drain valve. If you have a 3/8 hole drain valve or better, and you drain the tank completely, the sediment will predominantly be removed. In this case, sediment collecting at the aerators have been minimal. If you have a restrictive drain valve, You can drain the tank empty first through your current drain valve with the help of Sediment Buster, then replace it with a full port valve when the tank is empty, then finish cleaning the tank with the tool
Yeah, and _don't_ open any shower valves to vent because it's a lot harder to clean out sediment/debris from shower heads and shower wands.
@@BrianW211Good point. One can also just divert the water to a tub spout, if available. The outgoing volume of water there is rather large, so it's a good pathway for debris to exit.
Lol why is this so satisfying to watch like those gross pimple popping videos?! Lol I’m weird but this is awesome. Thank you.
Right? If it only weren’t real. Literally every well property I used it on.
The "sacrificial" Anode rod, whether made of magnesium or aluminum, is the source of the sediment. Therefore, that Anode rod should be removed for inspection & replaced, depending on it's condition. Use an impact wrench with a (six point, not 12 point) 1 1/16" impact socket to release the factory installed Anode rod. There are also alternative replacement Anode rods that instead use a low-voltage electric current (from a plug-in wall adapter) that supposedly eliminate the sediment buildup problem.
If you have heavy water that also creates
Sediment.....
@@851995STARGATE Sand and grit from the city-supplied water is rare, no matter what minerals that may remain dissolved within the water. The "sacrificial" Anode is there to protect the steel & glass lined tank itself from damage. Without an anode rod present, you'd get much less sediment at the tank bottom, but also risk damaging the steel water heater tank.
@@851995STARGATE Hard water. Heavy water is used in atomic bomb production.
Removing the anode rod every 4-6 years is a great move. Clean the tank of the dirt and sediment and replace the rod to attract future minerals.
I hate to tell you this, but I have seen multiple hundreds of anode rods that had 80% or more left and the tanks were still full of sediment so deep it burnt out the lower element/s...
both city water and well water, some minerals and near neutral PH water will do that when heated by elements. it's mainly "electric" water heaters with the issue, due to the smaller surface area of intense heat produced. gas units around here(well water) tended to last longer than the plumbing or installer workmanship.
of course NONE of it lasts now days and your lucky if it's any good from the factory!.
interested in using this for my water heater maintenance business
What was all the stuff you got out of the tank? You mentioned sediment and minerals, but does that stuff just fall out of the water or does it cake to the inside of the tank and over time then drops to the bottom? Where were you for the 22 years I owned a house with a 40-gallon hot water tank? My new house has what I believe is called a tankless hot water heater, so I don't think this will be helpful here. Those 22 years, the glass-lined tank that was there when I bought it, well, it cracked within 6 or so months. I then bought the stainless steel tank and had no problems for that 21-period. Now, as it was just me, maybe I didn't run enough hot water through it to mess it up, but my hot showers were always hot.
As it's only been a few months in my new house, I haven't had a chance to find out what to do with the tankless stuff, so any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. In the meantime, I am going to subscribe. I also want to thank you for not having any music playing while you are speaking. It's a major pet peeve of mine with YT hosts that seem to think music playing while they are telling me how to fix something or do something or why a plane crashed is such a good thing. Let me tell you, it is not. It is very distracting. So, thanks again, for keeping the music out.
i have one on order shouls arive on friday
I back flush the drain with city water first. This should clear the way better then then the low pressure you get with the hand air pump. I have my hose hooked to the stationary tub faucet. When I think its cleared, turn off the tank and take the hose off the faucet and open the tank drain. Not only does this clear the drain but agitates the sediment, Warning, do not use higher pressure then your city water normally supplies.
Like another comment stated, be sure to take aerators off and flush the hot water lines otherwise you will be cleaning them. The hardest part of flushing your hot water tank is getting that plastic drain valve off.
Or activated charcoal?
Definitely not a Calcium buildup.... This method keeps sediment in front of the Drain. Anything actually Stuck to the tank walls or any Large chunk buildup will likely remain untouched.
I'd trust these products more if the Users did an on camera scope of the inside of the tank before and after.
* I've hand cleaned the inside of an Electric Water Heater and removed Gallons of Lime/Calcium. i.e. piled above the lower element.
Two points of agitation works well for calcium as well as dirt. We are new to the market but give us time, and we will get interior tank shots! Thanks for viewing
looking forward to this@@SedimentBuster
Is the main point not to clean around the heating element, which is at the bottom? I think the walls would be the minor issue. If any maintenance is to be done, this method is better than doing nothing at all. I do not know how plumbing companies do their water heater flushes, but if all they do is either use venting and gravity, or the city's water pressure the clean out sediment, then again, the method in the video seems more favorable.
Your (or anyone's) thoughts?
Don’t they make something you can put in that helps breaks up that stuff? Like I don’t know citric acid with baking soda? It would that mess it up?
@crxess
How have you cleaned inside the tank of a Hot Water heater? Thanks
Yes, with this tool
The pressure relief valve is a safety device and is supposed to seal. Part of maintenance should be opening and closing it anyway. If it doesn't seal, it should be replaced.
When I drained my tank it was all very fine rust dust. What are all those big chunks in yours? Some looks like sand and rocks. I didn’t have a tool like that so I stirred it up by opening the intake valve and blasting it.
The valve on the tank we were draining was a 3/8 hole. Some valves are very restrictive. Use the Sediment Buster to drain your tank empty. Replace the drain valve with a full port valve. Then fill with a little water and use the SB to create air vacuum.
Hey Joel, I'm getting ready to flush my 17-year-old Ruud 75-gallon gas hot water heater using your awesome product. Do you have an Amazon link to the heavy-duty pool skimmer you used to capture the debris? I'd like to document how much sediment actually comes out.
For sure. Get
www.amazon.com/UNCO-Pool-Skimmer-Nets-Cleaning/dp/B0B2WDHKW7/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=VNZ8XC9GZ2JF&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MWYr_j5B69zFGsDYC14w5guDiRbbklckf3i3oGlhvaHFD1QH3nn-CngHdpEPqpCImBsN6j4-miMIEwcGgCL1O_ss67r4VRt2e101dU7WtTzho4xccch9h-DTv42C31orrCBY9t864rargb8IJLqyq2OUKqK_VxAHsFsJrco1oCrwcmfoJzr3cFRkoru8GN5q1_2mFnAgNzL862Y94Zlq4Q.CxRiNMlayslNUp0-XVSv6kYF6eapIoNVZ2ytksftD9Q&dib_tag=se&keywords=pool+skimmer&qid=1711310774&sprefix=pool+skimmer%2Caps%2C142&sr=8-9
@@SedimentBuster Awesome! Thank you, sir.
BTW, what PSI do you recommend if one is using an air compressor? Any other tips before I get started?
Set around 80 on the tool. 1-3 second bursts.
I like this video and might get the buster thing if not too expensive. However, if we just let the tank empty thru the hose.. why not then take the hose off and run heavy wire in there and CAREFULLY scratch around to break up the crud? It'd release more water and be a little messy until you'd get the hose back on but ...
The air pressure is so much easier. Plus you don’t need to take a hose on/off to feed the wire, not to mention the water and sludge that will be pouring at you as you feed the wire…it’s just easier and the clear lets you see the process
A nice idea. You'll be hard pressed to convince me that adding air to the tank creates a vacuum of any sort, however.
😊 hard to believe but it does. I’ve tested it many times and show it in other videos. Needs to be vented and attached to a hose.
I can never get my tank to drain with faucet venting. I have to always use the relief valve.
I also don't think this product is necessary. Pulsing the cold water seems to agitate the sediment to drain.
I like it but I'd still like some rig setup to see the inside of a tank while using the air pressure.
You could always pull the anode rod and use a bore scope.
Next time I get into the field with some of our plumbers I will try to get that internal camera shot.
Agreed, that is an excellent idea. Would make for a very convincing video
It'll take a fancy bore scope with an articulating head. I tried it after removing the anode rod, but my bore scope only articulates in one plane and the humidity kept fogging the lens. The inside of the tank is dark steel which absorbs light so you'll probably have to add an additional light source.
@@Calliber50 thanks for the information. I have my bore scope but how would I go about adding an additional light source besides the one that the bore scope has already
Is there any concern that the heating element will be turning on, and may overheat?
Always turn power off. Then heating element will not heat up.
If you turn off the power FIRST, the elements will not come on
Question, I live in an old mobile home 1979 I think, there doesn't seem to be a shut off valve for the cold, I only found the pressure release valve. Do I need to get a plumber to install one? Any plumber out there doing videos this would be a good one for you to do, just saying lol
Good question! Shutting off the cold inlet can also be accomplished at the source of the house. Every home should have a cold water shut off valve which essentially accomplishes the same thing as shutting off at the point of the water heater.
@@SedimentBuster yes I found the main water shut off ty, I also found the one too the water heater but they put it under the trailer very hard to get to and getting dirty is not my thing lol, so I'll just shut the main off I had an hour to talk to my brother he's been in plumbing 28 years and he said same thing, I'm running to Lowe's to get new garden hose, the one we have is in a roller and it's 2 hoses , one small off the side and one long one rolled up and only the short one on side will fit but it's too short.also forgot to say we have well water and he said to do this every year since it's hard water
Great! The videos I made were well water. Make sure you check out our instructions and videos online. If any questions or problems email me through our website
sedimentbuster.com
Thanks!
Empty the tank completelty then pump the cold water shut off until it runs clear, literally does the exact same thing. It disturbs the bottom where all the sediment is.
Empty the tank, but first break up the clog. I know it is hard to believe, but pumping cold water only makes a channel to the valve, but the SB sucking action pulls it out so much better from our experiments. Thanks!
@SedimentBuster I install tank for a living. If it's that clogged (which it rarely is), I put the other end of my hose to a tap and run the water, it does the exact same thing.
Thats the same water we drink? (If we were to drink hot water for some reason lol)
can this be used on my tankless water heater ????
Hey friend, no this is not meant for tankless.
touching that CPVC valve made me nervous 😬😅
I can understand that. I’ve noticed that turning of the water to the entire house relieves the pressure through that cpvc valve allowing it to turn a little easier. That said, replacing that cpvc with a brass valve is never a bad idea.
I flooded out a house before when resetting a toilet on the third floor CPVC eith a stop...the toilet barely brushed against it ,snapped it off inside the wall and the stop by the time I got to the ground floor and out to the meter it had poured through all three floors.
@@joeyszalkiewicz8052that's what I was talking about - I was afraid the pipe will break off behind the valve somewhere
I can't find a "full port" garden hose. Regular hose won't work?
Regular gardening hose typically is full 5/8 port. Just stay away from the restrictive attachments
Tried 2 garden hoses yesterday and they leaked too much.
@@Mahaffeytattoo-ux2ro the garden hoses leaked? how so?
I wasn’t using your product, just flushing it the old fashion way. Our tank has a cheap plastic faucet so my hose was leaking if I opened up the valve all the way.
Lots O Lime and Calcium...
the rotten egg smell is hydrogen sulfide due to magnesium anode (vs zinc ) reacting to the hard water as it heats up it brings the minerals out of solution ,(opposite of being dissolved) . the drain valve opening is very small maybe 3/16 wide so any thing larger will not fit .. the air pressure is not doing anything but freeing up a drain valve clog .a powerflush ( just opening the drain while water is on) can do and it just creates a channel . there can be a solid layer stuck to the bottom of the tank that will never break up unless you cut open tank . it will break apart sometimes and sound like a bowling ball inside .
i have been installing water heaters for 22 years and have cut open tanks to see for myself..
good idea but wont solve the sediment issue .
Sediment Buster will help you get the tank empty (by keeping the passage clear as it drains) through the small drain valve so that you can change the drain valve to a full port. Then apply 2 points of agitation (cold water intake and Sediment Buster air bursts from the new drain valve). That is where we find the most success getting the sediment out. Without 2 points of agitation, you are right, a channel effect is happening.
I'm looking to flush mine out very soon after just moving in a few months ago. If I read correctly you suggested leaving the drain valve at the bottom open while leaving the cold supply line open at the top to create a channel of flow?
thats how i do it when called out on a trouble call. if you are handy and if it is a brass drain ,i would pull out the drain and put a 3/4 full port ball valve to allow the junk that is smaller than 3/4" to escape .obviously you will want to shut off the water and relieve pressure before removing valve ...if it is a plastic valve i wouldnt touch it as they tend to break off as they get older . also on a older tank 10 years or more flushing out the junk may reveal a pinhole leak that was covered before and now you have a leaking tank to replace ...
the water rushing through will also stir up and break up some stuff too.
@@avenge1671
Yes I have a plastic valve. I don't think it's ever been flushed since it was installed in 2006. You think ai could risk breaking it even If I tried to open it? B
it is a risk depending on brand but you can see if it will open fairly safely .the risk reward factor is low .. on a tank that old i usually recommend replacement on anything older than 10 12 years depending on water quality . you may end up not getting all the junk out and the rumbling bowling ball noise may get worse if it partially breaks up but cant fit out thru drain @@avenge1671
whats wrong with power flushing ?
This is power flushing 😉
I wonder if you need a plumbing license to do this on other peoples water heaters.
If you charge, maybe.
Would be even better if you took that drain cock off and screwed in a short piece of 3/4 pipe. The actual drain cock has a very small opening preventing the bigger stuff to come out.
Completely agree. Our updated instructions recommend this step.
@@SedimentBusterthat’s great!! I actually put a 3/4 ball valve on mine and clean it every year. Even with a whole house filter I installed I still get sediment in my tank, but far less than without the filter. I’ll pick up one of your adapters seems like it will make my life easier. Thanks!!
Your missing most of the sediment and all the big pieces that can’t fit through that tiny standard drain valve. Better than this method? Drain the whole tank, remove the stock drain valve and replace with a 3/4” ball valve for full flow and easy sediment passage.
You bet. Exactly what we suggest in our instructions.
If you have water that is clogging up your tank maybe you need a good filter system to save yourself and your stupid hotwater tank. Funny how people are more concerned with there hotwater tank then there health.
Check your anode while you are at it.
no doubt! Try this! Before you start draining, take the anode rod out and use the hole to create an excellent vent for draining.
@@SedimentBuster I been doing residential, commercial and RV water heaters + tankless for a few years... a few "good practices" when doing maintenance. Cheers!
Too complicated 🤦
Well hey, Just make sure your local plumber has the sediment buster if they plan on cleaning your water heater 😊
Wouldn't it be easier to just unhook the hot water line?