Very nice Professional work. I have 3 trade licenses ( Gas fitter, Power Engineer ( steam ) and Refrigeration ) and your work impresses me. I also watched your condensate tank replacement video at the church. I worked in a hospital with high and low pressure steam and had those remote tanks also. Retired now and we did not have ProPress fittings and had to thread and solder everything. Victaulic is as close as we got to easier joints. Keep up the good work.
Excellent work as always, but when your body gives you a warning take a couple days off. I know winter season is the most busy for us and everytime i get randomly sick for no reason i know i should take 2 days off and take care of myself before i get seriously sick
Correct. Weil Mclain cast iron boilers have an integrated “air scoop” on the first section. It works very well. No BFP required in this town we are working in. Just the city adjacent to it. Thanks for watching!
@@valenzaplumbing I could not find mention of the integrated air scoop in any Weil Mclain documentation. Can you point me to that? I have a WTGO circa 1999 that is still going strong but it has an external air scoop.
Orientation of the mixing valve in relation to the tankless coil does not matter. The manual does not back up your claim, nor does anyone else. There is also nothing wrong with black iron pipe/fittings after the PRV. The check valve separates the potable from the non potable hudronic side. No electrolysis occurs in a closed loop system. It’s 100% okay. Also the LF70A is not a “cheap mixing valve”. Stop hating.
I think you made a few big mistakes. 1 The domestic water mixing valve should have been piped straight up instead of sticking out towards the washing machine, the same with the transformers etc. it’s already a very tight space why make it even more ridiculously tight ? I hope the homeowner doesn’t have to big of an ass. 2 The white 120 V wire should not be running across the top of the OOPS boiler unsecured could easily come in to contact with the 400° stack. I would have also skipped putting the purge bleeder on top of the OOPS boiler all that’s going to do in a year or two is drip and leak water on top of that 120 V wire and cabinet and ruin the sheet metal just look at the old boiler. 3 The drain valve 🚰 at the bottom you were complaining about should have been replaced with a three-quarter inch ball valve, coming straight out instead of to the side where somebody’s apt to step on it or knock into it plus they are always notoriously leaking. 4 I would have put the low voltage electric control wires in a small box with a piece of conduit instead of sticking up with wire nuts, looking like who did it and ran. Remember, every time the homeowner stubs their 🦶 toe on that valve sticking out on the floor or hits their 🫏 ass on the mixing valve sticking out by the washer they’re gonna remember who did the job . I installed a well McLain boiler 25 years ago very similar to the one you did. They haven’t changed a bit. I ran 10 zones with 1/8 hp circulator motors, to each room with their own set back thermostat, saved a fortune in fuel. I change the nozzle and filter at the end of each season and clean out the water jacket and stack every two years and replace the combustion chamber every 10 years works great never had any issues. Still getting 85.5% efficiency.🎅🏼 Ho,Ho,Ho
The piece of equipment we installed here is a boiler, not a furnace 😉 I appreciate the feedback and you watching our videos. Definitely a lot of subjectivity and a lot of speculation with your concerns though. Just being honest. I don’t agree with the words “big” or “mistakes”. The way I did it just doesn’t seem to be your “preference”. Just like replacing the combustion chamber refractory every 10 years, “just because” wouldn’t be mine. The homeowner LOVED the install. He even commented about some of the more minor details that most others wouldn’t even notice. Also, I’m offended that you said my low voltage wiring looks like “who did it and ran” 😂 I think you’re the only one. Have you seen 99% of boilers with zone valves!? SupplyHouse.com featured another one of the boilers I installed and everyone thought the wiring was impeccable. Oh well. Again, thanks for watching.
What do the Americans call a boiler? A furnace (American English), referred to as a heater or boiler in British English, is an appliance used to generate heat for all or part of a building. Furnaces are mostly used as a major component of a central heating system. en.m.wikipedia.org › wiki Furnace (central heating) - Wikipedia
Very nice Professional work. I have 3 trade licenses ( Gas fitter, Power Engineer ( steam ) and Refrigeration ) and your work impresses me. I also watched your condensate tank replacement video at the church. I worked in a hospital with high and low pressure steam and had those remote tanks also. Retired now and we did not have ProPress fittings and had to thread and solder everything. Victaulic is as close as we got to easier joints. Keep up the good work.
Thank you sir!
Fine job Dominic.
Nice to see someone who cares about the aesthetics of a boiler.
Planning on upgrading my boiler later this year. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you Rob!
i would like to see a vid how you combat pipe deflection with the propress..thanks
Excellent work as always!
Very professionally install. Excellent work. 👌
Very smart installation 😎👍
Hey guy to be honest I think you are the best , congratulations.
Love this style video!!!!!!!!
you do very nice and neat work, press, or not you make it look professional
I see you install black iron to coper pipe w/o a dielectric union, what about electrolier?
Electrolysis does not occur on closed loop hydronic heating systems like this one. No dielectric unions required.
Excellent work as always, but when your body gives you a warning take a couple days off. I know winter season is the most busy for us and everytime i get randomly sick for no reason i know i should take 2 days off and take care of myself before i get seriously sick
Bro screw the comments , you don’t have to prove anything to nobody.✌you make Mikey pipes look like a third grader .
Mikey pipes likes 3rd graders I bet. He's actually a convicted pedo. Google his name
Nice job. You don't install an air eliminator on the feed because you have the air vent on the boiler? Any reason why no back flow on the water feed?
Correct. Weil Mclain cast iron boilers have an integrated “air scoop” on the first section. It works very well. No BFP required in this town we are working in. Just the city adjacent to it. Thanks for watching!
Have you ran into any issues with having to go back and add in a spirovent or additional air scoop? Just curious if I could stop adding in my own
@@stephencottens2521 Never. Installed countless WGO/CGA/CGI boilers without external air elimination. Never had an issue or a call back, ever.
Awesome thank you
@@valenzaplumbing I could not find mention of the integrated air scoop in any Weil Mclain documentation. Can you point me to that? I have a WTGO circa 1999 that is still going strong but it has an external air scoop.
👍👍
Your cheap mixing valve is supposed to be piped lower than the coil tappings. Read the instructions. Why black fittings on the tank tee?
Orientation of the mixing valve in relation to the tankless coil does not matter. The manual does not back up your claim, nor does anyone else. There is also nothing wrong with black iron pipe/fittings after the PRV. The check valve separates the potable from the non potable hudronic side. No electrolysis occurs in a closed loop system. It’s 100% okay. Also the LF70A is not a “cheap mixing valve”. Stop hating.
@@valenzaplumbing don't be a clown. Look at the diagram. Tell what's wrong with your installation. Regards, eldest tradesman.
How much an install like this cost just your labor?
We don’t go over pricing on the internet unfortunately.
No air in the can required in that jurisdiction?
Not a requirement. Only installed when necessary. It’s required by you on every job?
@@valenzaplumbing Yes, fairfield county ct
Definitely an unnecessary part for the customer to pay for if there is enough make up air without one. Don’t you think?
@@valenzaplumbing I agree.
Tomatos or Tomatoes - Which is Correct?
I don’t know why this is even a question haha. It’s black and white! Furnace = air. Boiler = water.
I’m going to reach out to you.
I think you made a few big mistakes.
1 The domestic water mixing valve should have been piped straight up instead of sticking out towards the washing machine, the same with the transformers etc. it’s already a very tight space why make it even more ridiculously tight ? I hope the homeowner doesn’t have to big of an ass.
2 The white 120 V wire should not be running across the top of the OOPS boiler unsecured could easily come in to contact with the 400° stack. I would have also skipped putting the purge bleeder on top of the OOPS boiler all that’s going to do in a year or two is drip and leak water on top of that 120 V wire and cabinet and ruin the sheet metal just look at the old boiler.
3 The drain valve 🚰 at the bottom you were complaining about should have been replaced with a three-quarter inch ball valve, coming straight out instead of to the side where somebody’s apt to step on it or knock into it plus they are always notoriously leaking.
4 I would have put the low voltage electric control wires in a small box with a piece of conduit instead of sticking up with wire nuts, looking like who did it and ran.
Remember, every time the homeowner stubs their 🦶 toe on that valve sticking out on the floor or hits their 🫏 ass on the mixing valve sticking out by the washer they’re gonna remember who did the job .
I installed a well McLain boiler 25 years ago very similar to the one you did. They haven’t changed a bit. I ran 10 zones with 1/8 hp circulator motors, to each room with their own set back thermostat, saved a fortune in fuel. I change the nozzle and filter at the end of each season and clean out the water jacket and stack every two years and replace the combustion chamber every 10 years works great never had any issues. Still getting 85.5% efficiency.🎅🏼 Ho,Ho,Ho
The piece of equipment we installed here is a boiler, not a furnace 😉
I appreciate the feedback and you watching our videos. Definitely a lot of subjectivity and a lot of speculation with your concerns though. Just being honest. I don’t agree with the words “big” or “mistakes”. The way I did it just doesn’t seem to be your “preference”. Just like replacing the combustion chamber refractory every 10 years, “just because” wouldn’t be mine.
The homeowner LOVED the install. He even commented about some of the more minor details that most others wouldn’t even notice.
Also, I’m offended that you said my low voltage wiring looks like “who did it and ran” 😂 I think you’re the only one. Have you seen 99% of boilers with zone valves!? SupplyHouse.com featured another one of the boilers I installed and everyone thought the wiring was impeccable. Oh well.
Again, thanks for watching.
" Mint
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What do the Americans call a boiler?
A furnace (American English), referred to as a heater or boiler in British English, is an appliance used to generate heat for all or part of a building. Furnaces are mostly used as a major component of a central heating system.
en.m.wikipedia.org › wiki
Furnace (central heating) - Wikipedia
A boiler is hydronic (ie hot water heat). A furnace is forced hot air. The names aren’t interchangeable.