How To Clean A Tankless Domestic Hot Water Coil
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- Опубліковано 11 бер 2013
- Shows how to remove rust and scale from a tankless domestic hot water coil in a residential summer-winter oil fired furnace. For reference, the furnace is a Trianco Heatmaker.
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thank you so much. I can't believe how well this worked . I was told $300-$500 to flush the coil out and I watched this video . $100 in chemical and pump and I have hot water again. pleas keep showing people how to do stuff like this. My family and I are very greatfull
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! You just saved my home from the repairman and a HUGE bill! I will very much enjoy my hot shower tonight. Thank you so much for sharing!
My husband was just about to purchase a new coil which would have cost us close to $300.00. I found your video and he tried it and it worked fantastic. Our cost now was $27.00 for the CLR. Thank you so much for the video.
Glad it helped out.
Justin, thanks for this video. It inspired me to attempt to clean out my own tankless hot water coil in my oil-fired boiler, the flow from which had slowed to a trickle. I installed cutoff valves and spigots on the in and out lines to the coil. I then purchased a small submersible pump from my local Harbor Freight as well as some washing machine hoses (female connectors on both ends) and pumped white vinegar through the coil. This took several attempts over several days, but eventually I got a good flow of reddish discharge. I, too, reversed the pump flow through the coil--several times--and this really helped break things up. Eventually, the clog broke up and I now have excellent hot water flow. I tried pumping CLR, but I think it foamed up too much and would not flow through my system. White vinegar worked great (purchased several gallon bottles from BJs Wholesale Club).
Interesting, what about using muriatic acid, hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid? Maybe too powerful and burn hole in coil.?
i am going to attempt this myself
Thanks for the video Justin. I recently diagnosed that I had a fouled heating coil for my hot water. After watching your video, I decided to give it a try, and save a bunch of money. The tricky part was getting the right fittings, and opening the system to give me access to the coil. I ended up taking out the hot/cold mixing valve, and installing fittings there. But once I got the CLR circulating, the flow increased in 15-20 minutes. We now have lots of hot water and good pressure, and it cost less than $50.
Can't thank you enough. I did it today and it worked. The pump hose worked better on the hot water side. I had to switch it back and forth about 4 times before it broke through. Thanks!
Donny, the pump used was just a cheap submersible pump (~$40). I adapted the discharge to a standard 5/8" garden hose type fitting.
John, I purchased 1 gallon of CLR from the hardware store for this job and mixed it with one gallon of hot water. This worked out well. Using less CLR may work out too.
So just go to Home Depot and ask for a gallon of CLR? Are there different grades of CLR to ask for?
THX!! for this!! HUGE help. I have a New Yorker furnace and in the past the plumber would do this but they are reluctant to do it as they say the acid will destroy the coil. I did this and the hot water pressure is as good as the cold and the inspector ( the house is up for sale ) will easily pass this !!
Mage helpful and easy to do !!
Glad it helped you out!
I adopted this exact method for flushing our heater coil. Worked great, key is to let it run for a long while and to do it in both directions. Only needed to do this every couple years to keep the pressure up. I think the hose, fittings, bucket, pump, and large bottle of CLR was $100-ish dollars at home depot.
Should note that I'm only moderately competent at DIY home repairs. If I can do it, most any able bodied/mind person can.
Worked great and easy to do. Thanks for the video! Our hot water was not heating up and running out very quickly during showers. After doing this we had two showers of completely hot water. One thing I found interesting was that the bucket I used with the CLR and gallon of water did not have debris or discolor after an hour of flushing the system. Not sure if I should run it again and for a longer time or not to worry about it since I have more sustained hot water now.
We just flushed ours with a mix of clr and hot water. We used a pond pump to move the solutiion. We had 12 years of sediment and minerals slowing things down. It restored our hot water volume.
I am in the same boat
We practically have the same boiler. my dad did this for years except he did it by cranking for hours. back in the 90s. did it by cranking a hand pump....for hours. Wish he thought of this back then.
hey thanks for this video, i have the same issue. what type of pump did you use to pump the clr. Also you said it was a 50/50 mixture, 50/50 of what???
Fantastic , do you just shut the lines off and empty some of the water from the coil ? Or you use the hot water from the coil itself and mixed with C.L.R. .?
Hello....I tried this and it seemed to clean the coil. One thin that's happening.is I am still getting clr Oder and foam from the water coil. I have flushed and re-flushed and still after it heats up I get some foam and order from the hot water....any suggestions or ideas why that is happening.
Yes..what kind of pump was used??
Anyone else hear the fart at 2:52?
Bryant Laprade just replayed it. Yes 😂😂
Well he did say "we're working on pressurizing" just beforehand
How we supposed to know when to stop? They tell me the acid can eat right through the coils. Ours has been done 3 times already., like every 4 years. Before the plumber ran it through for only about 5 minutes. Also what is CLR please. Thank you A lot.
Thanks for the helpful video. I have slightly less pressure on the hot water than on the cold side. But lately during high hot water flow (shower), hot water gets cold in 1-2 minutes. I'm going to replace mixing valve and add ports to flush coil like you did. Is there also a possibility the outside of the coil has muck built up from the boiler water?
Coil could have muck, I flush my boiler on a yearly basis to keep it internally clean, and also have a water filter installed right when the city water comes into the house.
Very nice video. Little tip for you tho instead of putting the plugs back in off the T fitting, install boiler drains facing the opposite direction plus caps. Even tho it might not get clogged often still good to have this way it’s easier for the next time. Very helpful and good quality work.
Precious Plumbing, would you mind explaining your suggestion a bit more detailed. I am looking to do this shortly and would like to try another option if you think it's a better choice. Thanks
Thank you Justin for making this video. We're in the same situation with the low water pressure, with the added, no hot water coming through. It's running cool, to barely luke warm. My question is, can an acid wash burn a hole through the coil? My plumber said he didn't do washes any more due to that danger. Our boiler company would do the wash for us, but they didn't seem to think there would be that problem. I'd appreciate your input on this. Thanks again.
Of course they are willing to do the acid wash, your boiler company would love to replace your coil sometime in the near future and charge you hundreds of dollars in the process, it's called a conflict of interest.
Thanks.
I have the same exact issue!!
Do you have any videos showing how you installed the fittings for the gauges and the clean out ports? Parts list? I'd like to add that to mine permanently.
Forget his video, he didn't answer you anyhow, see my solution in my other comment.
@@deependz3231 I would look at the video you reference but can’t seem to find. Can you help?
@@davidhoulihan1446ua-cam.com/video/OoXaFZ1s0Mo/v-deo.html
Probably couldn’t push through the hot water outlet side because a lot of time those coils have a check valve in them. Also have you tried using distilled white vinegar?
Hi question what acid I can use
I never tried it yet, but the lines are there and the hot water pressure is low and it gets cool at times in the shower
hi justin, What pumps are you using to run the acid etc through the coils?.. Thanks for the great vids
Paul P just a cheap submersible Pump from any hardware store. Most will allow a garden hose to be connected to it.
thanks
😊 for the video
wish I had a friend like you over here in PA ,I have the same exact problem ,but not enough balls to do it myself ,I refuse to let a plumber charge me
So cold showers it is lol
Also what do you think of using 100% distilled vinegar instead of chemicals? Trying to avoid any possible bad after-taste or possibly toxic residue/after-taste.
I'm not sure if vinegar would do the trick.
+hector s. You only need to run some water through the coil for maybe a minute or two after. The CLR will flush out. I ran the nearest faucet for a few more minutes to be sure when getting the air out of the line.
How did it affect the temperature of the hot water?
No effect on temperature.
What if the pressure is fine but you're not getting any hot water or it takes a really long time for it to get hot?
Luigi Provencher is your burner turning on??
Justin S. Yes! Of course it is, lol I live in the North East/New England so I'd be pretty screwed if it didn't. It's a Burnham Steam Boiler that has a mixing valve on the right side. No tank or expansion chamber on it.
Luigi Provencher is your mixing valve adjustable? I do not have a mixing valve. I know I get cold water to the sinks and showers when the circulator pump comes on to heat the house. After the house is back up to temperature, the hot water works fine.
Is this the case for you?
Is it possible that your hot water pipes are cooling off before they reach your shower?
Justin S. Yes! The mixing valve is adjustable and I was told by somebody at home depot that it's something that's very common to go but I was just trying to get a second opinion. We actually have zero heat right now because there's no more cast iron radiators. They've been removed because they weren't working or functioning properly. Cracked and or splitting at the seams.
Luigi Provencher if you only use it for domestic hot water. I would say mixing valve is the problem.
boiler inside water heater coil changing video
what acid did you use?
Wish I knew
Windowpane acid, Google it.
Acid can eat thru coils, CLR (Calcium Lime and Rust) is less aggressive and can be used to clean coffee makers, shower heads etc
I used one gallon CLR, one gallon water.
What the heck does CLR stand for please.??? Thanks
@@Hundert1 Calcium Lime Rust.. It's a solution sold at Walmart.. Home depot etc called "CLR" I didn't get any no one is answering that question. It comes in a Grey bottle. You can soak faucet heads in it to help clear them out some.
I use 3 gallons of vinegar
I did pretty much the same procedure a week and a half ago and it is working great, probably hotter water with greater flow than we have had since we lived here. I used 11 cups of CLR with 30 cups of hot water, about a 25% solution, quite a bit, in a large bucket. Not having fittings I had to unsolder some joints and use two pieces of hose with female ends, the other ends cut and fastened on with hose clamps. Started in reverse going in the hot water exit. Very slow and concerning at first, possible partially due to the pump. As time progressed flow increased so I reversed flow to enter the cold side awhile and then reversed again. Finished with doing the same with two large buckets of plain hot water. I was worried the procedure might cause a leak in the coil but situation was so bad I had to take the risk and so far everything is great. Also installed a new Watts tempering valve. Since I had the pump, which seems undamaged by the procedure, my only cost was a gallon of CLR. Would of course be easier with fittings installed for this purpose, like the newer tankless HW heaters seem to have, but hopefully I won't be doing this so much that it would be worthwhile.
I have the same brand of boiler, steel, but a smaller model. Company now defunct I believe. Sold to Laars who continued to produce some of the models for awhile.
You need to get Rid of those black fittings. They are for gas not for water. Should be Brass or Copper or anything else but Black fitting
I used to boil out the coil as a free service for insufficent hot water service call. Worked if cust. Had slop sink in basement, but as you might know you had to use your feeling for the job, you can run into trouble trying to help a cust. Out.
It's simple, Just go to Stodoys page.I bought excellent handbook from Stodoys website.
It should be noted that this procedure will only increase the flow of your hot water but will NOT increase the temperature of your hot water. If you’re having hot water issues (i.e., temperature below 120 degrees at your sink), it’s time to replace your coil.
Not true, coil can only have three problems, clogged passageway, internal leak, which will show undue pressure buildup inside the boiler, and leakage around the tankless coil flange, which will leak down the external side of the boiler.