Creality Cr10S ultimate Heat-bed upgrade! 750W heater installed
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- This is step by step tutorial that will make your CR10 or CR10S heated bed to warm up insanely fast and reach temperatures that was not possible before. With this 750W AC powered silicon heater printing ABS and other materials that require 110C+ degrades on heated bed is not a problem any more. Parts list are down in description.
-------------------------------------DISCLAIMER------------------------------------------------
Am not taking any responsibility if you are unskilled and inexperienced with electricity! AC voltage can be dangerous!
Use this video as reference or idea how this update can be done and what results it can deliver.
If you don't know what you are doing, found electrician to do this job for you.
If you have better way to do this update then please do it in your way.
If you want extra safety add ground wire to the bed and connect it to the ground on the power-supply ground terminal or on ground pin on the main AC plug switch.
Also for even more extra safety install Anycubic Ultrabase and don't use paper clamps and turn off printer when you removing the glass.
Thank you.
If you have Creality CR-10 or CR-10S use these parts from the list:
CR10/S 750W Silicon Heater - s.click.aliexp...
300x300 Insulation Cottons - s.click.aliexp...
Solid state relay 25A - s.click.aliexp...
ULTRABASE glass surface for CR10/S - s.click.aliexp...
Isolate your wires with Heat shrink wrap - s.click.aliexp...
If you have CR-10 S4 (400x400mm) use these parts:
400x400 Silicon Heater (1000W) - s.click.aliexp...
Solid state Relay - s.click.aliexp...
400x400 insulation cottons - s.click.aliexp...
Isolate your wires with Heat shrink wrap - s.click.aliexp...
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3D printer parts and accessories:
CR10/S Nozzle different size: goo.gl/5QpRV7
3D printing surface:
Sticker: goo.gl/WTmmiM
BueTape: goo.gl/7vQMYp
Switch for PSU - goo.gl/sKzzkg
Rubber Timing Belt - goo.gl/3xtQPv
SCS8UU-8mm-Linear-Ball-Bearing - goo.gl/88pgGV
Gear that I use for my videos:
www.nexi-tech.c...
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Thank you so much for your support.
Best Regards!
Nexi
!!!!!!-----DISCLAIMER-----!!!!!!
Am not taking any responsibility if you are unskilled and inexperienced with electricity! AC voltage can be dangerous!
Use this video as reference or idea how this update can be done and what results it can deliver.
If you have better way to do this upgrade then please do it in your way.
If you want extra safety add ground wire to the Aluminium heat-bed or to adjusting screw and connect it to the ground directly or on the power-supply ground terminal or on ground pin on the main AC plug switch.
Also for even more extra safety install Anycubic Ultrabase(that's what i did after this video) and don't use paper clamps. I'am afraid that using paper clamps over and over for long period of time may damage the heatpad and expose main wires.
Thank you!
Nexi Tech can you show us how to put marlin on to try and get higher temperatures? Thanks
You should not have used common transparent tape to isolate the mains cables! Each cable should be individually isolated with heatshrink tubing (very cheap from the hardware store).
guillep2k What transparent tape? Where did I used it? Yes I know what is the heat-shrink I have the full box of it in different colors.
4:44 over the thermistor wire. You shouldn't have used any kind of tape because a) tape dries with time and becomes a liability and 2) the one you used looks like very easy to puncture. In other comments you say you don't worry about the connector because the amperage will be less (which is correct) but the problem is voltage: some ambient humidity and you could have your mains voltage creep to the case; that's why someone suggested you put a ground connection to the case and the bed. And those connectors are typically rated for low voltage with a dielectric strength of 250 Vrms (not enough for your safety). I sincerely recommend you to add heat-shrink inside the connectors (both male and female).
guillep2k Can't you see that I just use that tape to stick thermistor wires to another cable so I can drag them thru the cable housing?! You didn't even look video carefully. Over connector wires there is electrical black tape and there is plastic thick transparent ring over it inside the connector. Like I said in the comments use this video as idea or reference and do this updgrade it in your way.
I did this mod to my CR-10 today. I had bought in advance a breaker for the heating mat. In the process of the modification I noticed that the socket for the power cord has an AC fuse built into it and since the tap for the AC power is downstream of the fuse, a separate breaker is not needed. That said, the mod works beautifully. Thank you "Nexi Tech" for posting this video!
Although you have done that, I suggest putting a ground wire. Just a suggestion, it's your choice though. I put the ground wire though
Worked perfectly. This is really the way it should be from the factory.
I find it warps up my magnetic bed until the whole surface equalizes.. Something that didn't happen before because it was so incredibly slow.
Not a deal breaker, but something to keep in mind for some who aren't using glass.
thanks, i was wondering about that, my thermistor went out a while back so im gonna do this. how long did it take for the magnetic cover to equalize? this might be a concern if the print is interrupted but maybe a broken filament or other unplanned event.. especially when using exotic plastics.
@@SteveHabermacher Not too long. A few minutes, but it's something to take into consideration.. I find if I preheat the bed before I run the print, it's usually figured itself out and sitting flat again.
I've taken to using a pop up vinyl grow tent as an enclosure to keep things nice and toasty around the print anyway, so this preheating makes sense to warm the enclosure too.
Fyi... followed this great video to add a 1200w heater to my cr10-s5. Worked great but due to the increased power, I started blowing fuses. Bumped the AC fuse up to 15A and for safety I replaced all the AC wires in the control box with 14 gauge. I was pulling a steady 13A when the heater cycled on. Thanks again for this! Hope my comment helps anyone installing a larger heater.
Awesome! Thanks for info and feedback. Wish you a great day! Good luck with your S5 monster 3D printer :)
I have a cr10-s5 and have been wanting to do this upgrade to a 1200w heater as well other than the fuse and replacing the wiring wich i will be doing do you have any other suggestions and how is yours working out
just got my 110V heated pad - I noticed that the wires were a bit shorter for power... oh well - I will splice them up! Thanks for the great video!!
Any long term problems to report?
Followed your instructions, using 110VAC pad, 115 C in minutes now, thanks for the great video.
did you try get 120c or more with the upgrade?
What 110 pad did you use?
Is it still working?
I actually just found this bed a couple days ago since my heated bed died. Wasn't sure if I wanted to get it because it wasn't wired in directly but with this! Super awesome
Is it still working?
While the idea of this upgrade is a good one and improves the operation of the 3D printer quite significantly and you look like your quite capable in what your doing, it is not a safe implementation for the following reasons
1 Your connector on the back of the case will expose 220V if the plug is not connected, this is a NO NO.
2 There is no fuse in the circuit, most countries dont have a fuse in the plug, you really should have one.
3 The frame of the 3D printer or at least the bed should be grounded, just in case of a fault occurring.
4 I am not sure of cutting holes in those heat mats is a good idea, you can easily expose the mains powered wiring inside or even cut it altogether making the mat useless.
5 Using the same color wiring as the 12V system in the case can cause someone going in their later to think it is the same voltage as every thing else aka 12V and you know what that can mean....
6 The plug and socket is not rated for 220V as another viewer has mentioned.
7 Not using correct termination techniques on the wiring is not a good practice, stuffing the wire under the spade terminal is just bad. you should crimp on additional spade terminals to do the job properly.
8 Not enough warning to viewers who may attempt to copy this upgrade was given, this can be extremely dangerous if performed by an inexperienced person.
Peter Oakes
1) I don't see any reason why would be somebody who is done this upgrade ever screw out safety ring in the plug and then disconnect the plug and stick finger on pins in plug (220V) when printer is on?
2) Yes, there is fuse in the sistem inside main AC plug and powersupply and the solid state relay is connected to it. it's 10A rated (10x220V is 2200W so it's fine).
3) If AC heater silicone pad ever catch short circuit fuse(AC) in control box will burn out and cut AC main voltage (small chance that AC heater will ever get damaged because of much lower temps that CR10/S will ever use sense is 135 max in firmware and 260C is max rated temps for AC silicon heater.
3. There is no point to ground the whole frame sense heated bed is isolated from printer frame(Plastic on rollers bearings) but I can agree that extra safety is always welcomed so adding extra ground wire is good idea and I might do follow up video.
4. I didn't cut or drill any holes on AC heater(am not crazy) holes are already pre cut and made by manufacturer. This silicon heater is made for CR10/S and have holes on right place.
5. And other AC wires in the control box, power supply and on AC switch and fuse are what color? The are the same red and black... Look again. All wires colors on AC and DC was the same color even before this upgrade.
6. I can't agreed on this one because amps that going though the connector now is 3.4A and before was 18A that's way less heat and stress on this plug then before.
7. I pull every wire hard to make sure they will not fall out. It's holding very strong. Adding two spade terminal on single screw will luckily be ever worse because of bulky plastic insulation on the spade terminals can push each other out or not be able to hold strong as is now..
8 Ok I will will add disclaimer in video description and on video that this can be dangerous if performs of unskilled and inexperienced person who don't know that AC voltage can be dangerous.
9. Only thing I can see that may be issue here is the paper clamps and I don't like them near AC heated and I recommend installation of ANYCUBIC ULTRABASE and no longer paper clamps. I will add that in description and on video.
Hi there, I appreciate the response and clarification for many of the points I raised, some of which are based on a general view rather than country specific (I did not see what plug you were using for instance, most countries do not have fuses in plugs (UK is the only one I am sure of)
So in rebuttal to your rebuttal (All Good I assure you)
1. Doing it for your self is your risk, but others may copy and either way it is not a recommended way of wiring mains (That's why sockets are on the wall and plugs are on the appliance :)
2. Good to know but my point is still valid for countries where this is not so.
3. yes, with fuse in place, this is ok
4. Good to hear, I have a pad exactly like this but without the holes, I was not aware you had one special for your printer
5. It is good to know your not making the wiring worse but it is bad in the first place when these are not clearly distinguished from low volts and mains, this is not your doing for sure, it is the manufacturer, but if I was in there doing this, I would have taken the time to improve things. You certainly did not make them any worse so that;'s good.,
6. Yes, you have significantly improved the current load through the connector but it also has a voltage rating, this is what is now being exceeded, this may be fine for years but it is things like the insulation breakdown, the clearance between pins etc that is now being violated based on codes etc. Will it work, sure but is it to code.. probably not.
8. Excellent, thank you.
9. I did not raise that point but it is a good thing to mention and fix.
To clarify and on the positive side, I do feel you made a great video and it is a good upgrade, my feedback is only intended to help people who may follow in your foot steps but with lesser understanding or skills, when I make my videos this is something I always try to cover when dealing with mains especially, here in Canada i have the drawback of only having 110V mains, yes less volts but twice the current to make up for it for the same power so wiring always has to be so much thinker, just one of the things I miss from living in the UK :)
You are right - a more appropriate work around with the socket would be to use separate, soldered, lower gauge (for safety) cables for the 220v, eg. drill a hole in the side of the box to accommodate this with added 220/120v fuse coupler. 750w through that gauge of cable concerns me more than anything, the cable under load will heat up with the current demand and if the connector does not have a perfect connection, the connector will physically heat up due to the resistance. Can it (the cable harness) handle it - yeah for short bursts but a constant long term load will (should) heat up the harness eventually. The exposed soldered terminals on the connector should at least be shrink wrapped with glue impregnated wrap in case the connector gets bent and you have a short (look out!). The tape over the spliced wires is bad. Another location to use electrical shrink wrap ...just some thoughts.... This video does at least show how to approach this installation properly enough though.
There is nothing wrong with the connector. I been test it with 30+ hour print with heat-bed ON and I monitor everything with thermal camera and it was no heat and no issues and then I upload this video.
Right now It have over 120 hours on this setup and all of them is with heat bed ON. Again no heat, no issues. And connector is on metal case that is also huge heat sink in some way...
About the tape on the socket no: I used white insulation tape to get extra safety but if you look at 5:45 there is plastic insulation ring covering whole connector. Over connection there is safety ring and there is no way that this connector ever have bad connection..
Now about the power(amps) going through the connector. If you do calculation in amps on the connector. Before it was 18A x 12V =~220W now is 3.4A x220W =~ 750W that's 5.2 times less stress in amps on the connector. And there is again no heat ever that i found in my testing with the help of thermal camera and with one more infra red temp sensor and with my hand.
Why would I use thinner wires on 220V when there is a fuse in control box on 220V? Power-supply and Solid state relay is connected to that fuse. Its 10A fuse 10A x 220V = 2200W. Thin wires will add more stress and more heat to the system.
And if you guys ever want to do this upgrade then please do it in your way and use this video as idea or reference how to do it or at least just for compering results etc heat up time...
P.S.
I add disclaimer in video description.
The problem is that it's possible, and Murphy tells us that anything that is possible will happen. One day the heating will stop working for some reason, diagnosing starts, people might die.
I'm digging the new intro! Keep the great videos coming, it's always interesting to see what you're up-to.
Just did this, worked great. Clean install. Don't listen to these guys that say this is dangerous, the cr10 bed underside is potted and isolated from the bare aluminium, it won't conduct. The only time the you'll get shocked by the bare connector is if you have the machine on, running bed temperature command and have the connector disconnected.... don't ever see that happening.
Thanks!! Exactly what I needed. Got this pad in 120V edition. Installing it now. Thanks again!
In a sea of mass confusion, your instructional video was very refreshing. Whoever manufacturers that SSR and heated bed should be paying you for boosting sales.
Hi Nexi, good instructional video as usual. Be careful with this one though. There is now 220v A.C. on a machine chassis that was purposed for 24v. There does not seem to be additional grounding on the printer for the 220v circuit. Just a heads up on regulation in case someone decides to flag.
Finally got around to doing this, and wish I had done it sooner. Was a little nervous as I am not an electrical expert, however following this video closely resulted in highly successful results. Thank you sir!
Is it still working? Any hazards?
For anyone wanting to know, I was able to do this with a CR10 S5! Just keep in mind when connecting the SSR to the motherboard to connect the negative side to where the small black cable from the heating bed port and the positive side to where the red cable was on the motherboard. I also couldn't get the end off of the cable so I just saudered the original cable with the new one. Works pretty good but doesn't look great lol. Thanks for this video too! 😊
What do you mean? Your comment is unclear. According to the video, the ports 3 and 4 on the ssr go to the mainboard.. are you saying to ensure each one is lined up with the -/+ on the board as it is shown on the ssr?
Your instruction is awesome! It’s amazing how fast the bed heats up now. Only thing I did different was ground the printer chassis and took out the aviation connector completely.
So to fix all the issues people have highlighted:
1, replace the aviation connector with a reverse 5pin 250v rated one, so no ac exposed back of control unit
2, run a ground wire on the extra pin to the aluminum plate
3, put a 5amp inline fuse before the relay
4, use spade connectors to connect to PSU AC and relay.
Does that about cover it.
Curious how did you attach the ground to the bed? Have a link to the connector you used ?
Thank you for the note, very helpful.
@@LCSRacing there is no good or up to code way to do that, so these mods are always dodgy
Best possible would be another countersunk hole but thats not possible with the silicone mat.
Workaround is applying a counter nut on one of the screws and having a ring terminal with counternut below the leveling knob. (but this needs to be undone every time you twist it)
@@anxiousmerchant4129 You don't really need to ground the heated bed directly. You just ground the mount plate underneath. Be worth checking resistance between the two before you count on it but it should be fine.
@@uglyduckling81 On most printers the bed carrier is isolated form the bed and electrical contact is coincidental if a screw touches the hole wall
ofcourse you have to ground the plate directly. If you give electrical advice on the internet, do it factual correct or be silent
If the diy'ed contraption misfunctions and safety fails, guess who's liable
@@anxiousmerchant4129 no one is going to go hold you liable for a dumb youtube comment.
EDIT: SOLVED just add a ground wire!
Recently I bought a E3D heated bed (E-BED-HT-300-300-240V-KIT). After installing it following your excellent video, the test worked fine. 135 degrees (according to the controlbox) within no time and I could see the relay do it's work. Nice.
But the I felt a little tingle when I touched the heated bed (when it wasn't warm anymore). I examined the edge of the heated bed...it was smooth. Then I found out that the tingling was only the case when I touched the heated bed and the control unit of the printer...oops. I got out my volt meter and started to measure on the control unit trying to find the point where I f*cked up. Everyting was connected according to the video and shielded properly. And there was no current on places where it shouldn't.
Then I pointed my research on the heated bed. Holding my volt meter between the heated bed and the ground pin of a wall socket it happily showed 230 volts. Is there a flaw in the video? I looked at the wiring. The neutral of the power supply went to the connector of the heated bed. Turning the wall plug 180 degrees (that's possible with dutch wall plugs) There wasn't any current on the heated bed anymore. Problem solved?
No not really. First of all I don't want to pull out my volt meter every time when I plug my printer into the wall socket to see if I have to turn the plug to not get electrocuted. Secondly I think it is strange that the heated bed itself gets current. I would expect that only the heating element in the rubber mat beneath it should get current.
By the way, even when the heated bed is electrically completely isolated from the printer but only connected with the wires of the heated bed to the control unit the tingling occurs.
Thanks for sharing this with such clear and easy to understand detail. I see a lot of negative comments from the peanut gallery, but such is the way with youtube... Bunch of professional keyboard critics lacking in the testicular fortitude or electrical experience to do what you have done, nothing more. I for one appreciate your work, clean work space, clearly worded instructions, and well put together piece of education. Happy printing!
Dude...this is the most complete video I've found so far. I was wondering about the thermistor and connections to the plug.
Great work.
UPDAET:
HOT DIGGITY DAMN, it works! About to do a PID test but the bed works!
Magic! That's how you are going to make it heat that quick LOL, nice work.
Excellent tutorial! Although I will not be doing this I sure do like your informative videos!
Amazing. Thank you! I was wiring my SSR wrong. This helped a lot.
v2.1 board requires you to use the "Hot Bed" connectors on the board. These are the two connectors that the wire from the mosfet run to.
This helped. I worked for the 2.0 as well. Not sure if it's because I updated firmware.
Great video, just finished installing my new heater and it's sooo fast.
Phew I'm glad others have mentioned adding some earthing to increase electrical safety!
I completed this upgrade today. I followed this video step by step along with a couple others and combined them. I had a few minor differences. my mother board heat bed connectors 1 black ground and one red positive were connected to connector 5 and 6 labeled as hot bed not 3 and 4 on my creality CR10s 2.1 motherboard and i kept it the same with the new heat bed connections. I ran a ground from the bed base to frame and frame to control box. I also put a 133c thermo fuse between the bed and insulation inline on the power wire that runs to number #1 pin on the plug. I also updated the thermistor type, max bed temp, and with more power comes along with more responsibility so I updated the thermo runout settings in marlin 2.0.9.3 firmware, compiled and uploaded perfectly. Finally set the bed temp to 100c and hit 100c in 2 minutes 10 seconds and 110c at 2 minutes 34 seconds with no heat error whats so ever. I am happy with this upgrade that cost roughly 70 dollars ordering all parts on amazon. The only problem I still have is that Octoprint still reports power supply under voltage to my raspberry pi and I really thought that would be resolved with this upgrade with the powersupply not being used to heat the bed anymore. I seriously give up on the undervoltage issue as it does not affect printing at all and I have tried everything except buy a new power supply and still get undervoltage warning from octoprint even after isolating the number 1, 5v pin in the usb plug with electrical tape as recommended on the gethub website. I never had this problem until upgrading my octoprint 1.7.2 and PI OS to 0.18.0. it seems they are always screwing up something with octoprint daily and I wish they would leave it alone and stop creating more problems with each update!!!! If anyone has had this same problem and has been able to resole it, please let me know how you resolved it, otherwise Cheers to a great heat bed upgrade video that will work perfectly if followed correctly and thank you so much for your time and effort!
Hi friends. This a DIY guide. If you don't feel comfortable, then don't do it. But stop criticizing the author. This is a very good example of what UA-cam can do for you. It can help you improve the product you've bought.
I'm a qualified electronics technician and I usually don't work with more than 48 V AC or DC, but I'm not afraid of 230 VAC. I know how to it make it safe for my kids and my wife (maybe not for my wife - she's got a good insurance).
Please use your common sense.
Dears, I just bought a CR10S - Thanks to Nexi's videos - Really useful and well done videos - OK I really wanted to make those modifications and I'm not a rookie regarding electronics stuff but reading all those comments below I don't know whose is right and/or wrong.
The point is if the heatbed is enought insulated from the rest of chassis and build plate there are reasons to have fault ... but I'm maybe wrong ...
There is maybe one thing, is it possible Nexi please to add a clear diagram for wiring in the power supply ? it would be really helpful for me !
And @ the end maybe we just have to make some holes in chassis and build plate and put them @ the ground no ???
Many thanks for your feedbacks guys, because I really want to make this upgrade safely.
Firmware upgrade - how to do?
Yesterday i bought a second-hand CR-10 - S4 printer. It's manufacture date must be late 2017 according to the labels inside it. I have a CR-10S - S3 bought in Oct. 2018 (new) and it's firmware is very different from this one.
Below a few issues you should consider when owning and using a 3D printer:
I was actually surprised how much maintenance is needed when I bought my first printer. However it's essential to get a good print quality.
The printer I bought had not had proper maintenance during it's use. It did, however, have a lot of expensive upgrades, but the basics had been neglected.
I have found several screws that were not tightened, the Z-axis motor would climb up the rail when activated instead of moving the Z-axis. Both retainers for the Z-axis screws were loose and didn't help much with precision movement. Both belts were out of alignment and severely worn.
So far I have spent approximately €50 for spare parts. These are parts that I had in stock for my old printer, but I think I'll have to spend €50 more. Luckily I got it very cheap as nobody else had responded to the add.
Very nice video looked everywhere on youtube and it wasn't explained yet. The only thing I would do different is adding a fuse in series.
marko rodriguez Thank you. I fact I was thinking to add fuse the heater on AC line but there is a fuse on the back of control box already where AC plug are and it's 10A rated. 10A x 220V= 2200w. I think it's enough for whole 3D printer with this upgrade. It's maybe good think to add ground somewhere but there is glass over aluminium heatbed and whole heatbed is rolling on plastic so it's isolated from rest of printer. Even if something short out fuse in control box will blow and cut main AC.
I installed a 24V 500W silicon heater. I also installed a circuit to isolate the 24V from the printer using an optocoupler. I later found out that this is NOT NEEDED, because the CR-10S already has one on its MOSFET module... DANG.
The bed heats up much faster now, BUT because of the thermal characteristics of the whole bed (heater, glue, aluminum, air, glass) there is a lag in the heating of the glass itself.
When I heat up to 90c the glass is just at 70 and takes about 3 minutes to reach the temperature measured at the NTC. Take this into consideration people...
Everything has a 'thermal constant', i.e. it's ability to conduct heat. Plastic has a very high thermal constant. Aluminium and brass have a very low thermal constant. Glass is somewhere in between.
Thanks for detailed manual.
Thanks for your video.
Just one thing. At 8:40 in this video you connecting wires in to heater0 in the middle it was wrong for me. It was start working when connect them to heated bed first two beside.
Thanks
Yes I found exactly the same on my CR10-S. The heatbed relay wires need to be connected to the two terminals at the bottom of that connector block as shown on the video. It is is extremely important that the polarity of the wires is correct or the relay will not function.
Otherwise a flawless video and many thanks!!!
Then make sure you EARTH/GROUND your Heatbed and Printer Frame to EARTH/GROUND running an EARTH/GROUND Cable to the the correct connection inside your 3D Printer's PSU.
I followed a guide on the TEVO Tornado on how to make it safer/grounding/earthing. Please use Google or UA-cam.
This is an extremely important safety feature and if you are going to all this trouble to upgrade your 3D printer, PLEASE DO THIS AT YOUR EARLIEST CONVENIENCE!
Thanks
Coaster
Nice work. As a professional technician it's nice to see a guy work with care.
I followed along with this video and it worked perfectly. Thanks!!
You're welcome!
Nexi Tech I know you are getting a lot of flak for this mod. Most of it is only due to safety concerns. I know you have the disclaimer and warnings, but that only goes so far. So in the interests of safety I will also add my bit (sorry if someone else has pointed this out already).
Reusing the original plug and socket for 220/120 VAC is a very bad idea. For 3 main reasons ( I'll ignoring the Volts/Amps rating of the plug and socket).
1. The socket on the control box has exposed pins that could be touched accidentally when the cable is unplugged. With 12V that is not a problem, but 220/120 VAC could electrocute and possibly kill someone.
2. If the control box is moved and connected to another CR-10 * unmodified * printer frame that has the standard 12V heated bed, firstly you would have a large bang as the 12V heater blows. Then the bed and printer frame could become live and electrocute or kill someone (no earthing on the frame).
3. The control box (in Australia at least) does not have a mains fuse and our power cords and plugs do not have in build fuses. The control boxes were designed that all output sockets have 12VDC coming out of them. The 12V Power Supply box has an internal fuse and short circuit protection on the 12V output and in the factory design it is enough to be safe. But you have taken the 220/120 VAC straight to the relay and the heated bed without a fuse or earth. This is not safe.
I understand you or someone else who knows what they are doing could use the modified CR-10 relatively safely. The problem is that someone else who doesn't realise the dangers may make this mod. or worse the printer is used by someone who doesn't know the printer has been modified. The potential for disaster is high. The modification as you have shown would be illegal in many countries and if something bad happened the person who made the mod could be criminally and/or civilly liable.
Sorry if it sounds like I'm criticizing you and the mod. The video and tutorial are great so don't stop making them. My only concern is to make such things safe for everyone.
Very good step-by-step guide. Thanks!
In the video, the existing connector was used. I like the the idea to reuse it, but there is a possibility that his connector may or may not have the proper current rating and/or low contact resistance rating when switching from 12 volt use to 120VAC.
A heated bed using 120VAC needs low resistance contacts. Poor quality connectors will become warm or hot to the touch. Easy to see with a thermal camera. I would also suggest not wrapping tape around all 4 wires in bundle, should one wire break free and short to another wire. Two options to choose from when using high voltage: (1) add shrink tube to each wire, then add tape as insulator. (2) apply silicon glue or hot glue around all soldered joints. With strain relief removed, force in more glue, then squeeze in more glue. Add the relief.
Tom Luque I'm using this upgrade for over a year without any issues. In my country AC is 220V. Connector is rated for 220V 15A AC. I have thermal camera(you can see it in my other videos). No heat was ever detected on the connector sense now it only need to carry 3.4A insted of 18A that was before, so much less stress in fact...
Just did this upgrade on my cr-10s. Thanks so much for the awesome tutorial.
Another great video on upgrades, Nexi clean crisp and to the point...Best Regards buddy and Happy Extruding !
The Happy Extruder Thanks buddy!
Best Regards(Extruding) :)
Don't miss Give away buddy! ua-cam.com/video/-c6PQ0f2Nng/v-deo.html
It would be a good idea to heatshrink the AC terminal in the plug. An earth for the bed would also be a good idea.
I agree. Why not it can only be better. Ground can be added on one level adjusting screw for example.
Would love to see instruction video on same install with 120v x 15A. Don't let 98% of the BS get to you. Keep up the good work. Would that control box handle 1300w heater.
You are awesome, thanks so much. You deserved more views and subs.
Thank you so much! :)
I was thinking of getting the tevo tornado because of its ac heat bed but now i don't have to!
Again other excelent vídeo. Thanks @Nexi Tech.
needs proper earthing + fuse to be added for protection though its a great idea thx for sharing ,
Warning! As standard, the CR10 does not require an earth wire attached to the printer assembly. This is because it is powered by low voltage ONLY which is provided from the control box. The control box is earthed but NOT the printer. As this mod provides mains power to the bed without any protective earthing, it would be a very good idea (to remain safe!!) to run separate earth wires directly to the aluminium bed and the CR10's frame. Better still, get an electrician to do it for you.
Great job, thank you. Are you aware of a 110VAC heater for US users?
Hi Nexi!
Great idea. Love it! And going to do the same! But there is a quesion: after upgrading heat bed time for bed plate upgrade :) So what do you recommend? Glass, mirror, LokBild? Please keep in mind that having a opportunity to head a bed to higher temperature there is possibility to finally use ABS etc.. Have you ever concerned turning your plate into magnetic one? Is that possible with high temperature without loosing neodimium strength?Which magnets to choose for that bed upgrade?? Another problem is isolation cotton which decrease magnet's power (so in that case should use again bigger and stronger).I've seen that people used to stick it on the bottom, but how to glue it to cotton :)? Any idea regarding perfect bed for that upgrade?
Hi Nexi!
It's been a little while .. but finally I have done it! :) In big shortcut: your idea but with my personal improvements such as:
-LokBild,
-0,5mm alloy sheet (previosuly I have bought very expensive spring steel! which doesn't affect magnets :)))) - so any of you whos wondering - don't make my mistake ;)
-added another aluminium 4mm cnc drilled sheet as base for magnets as well as heated top platform,
-special 60pcs magnets (which are fine till 380 C degree),
- instead of 1 isolation cotton sheet, I have used 3 of them (it was solled in pack of 4..), but 3 here are important in my design- it prevent thermister and heater from smashing and squishing ),
-bottom platform I have left orginal one as support for cotton which isn't glued,
-each wires were equipped in connector,
-I have left orginal lenght of new calbes (never knows when it might be needed)
-Lenght of screws 4x50 or 55 works better (60mm might be too long).
Pros:
-It's work like a charm! :) Always wanted to have such possibility.
-heating bad to 60C - after improving time drasticly droped from 15-18min to 1 min 10sec in my case! 15 tmes faster! Madness!
-Despite the fact than somebody has described that metod as "unsafety" a few times, calling others idiots and other unpleasent words.. As long as I exactly know what i'm doing - I hardly believe it's pretty safe! Person who disagree, seems has a lack of knowledge or experience... ?
-Availability to print immidiatelly after turning on printer, which is really cool!
-Possibility of using other materials (those which require high temperature).
Cons:
-It not a cheap modification (especially if you own S4 or S5) -approximately it costed me somewhere around half of S4 :) Sick! :)) But I don't regret!
-On your film all job took a few minutes - in my case I've losted a half day (got more tasks to complete )
-Despite the fact that bad is immidiately heated up it's good practice to give it another minute or two to heat bad evenly.
Thank you for sharing your mod!
Knowing my electrician skills, I'd probably goof this thing up at every step.
Is there a (relatively low cost) printer model that comes fully equiped out of the box to print nylon and polycarbonate ?
The SSR DC input is polarized. You need to make sure it is connected correctly or it won't work.
COULD USE SOME HELP. My heated bed on my CR10s never worked from day one so I thought id replace it. I followed the instructions perfectly and my bed still won't call for heat. what could I be missing??
Great stuff...watched it several time and ordered the new heat bed and relay but when using your link to the insulation material you glued to heater. Were finding it's unavailable. What are the white squares made up off? Is there a substitute? Does it need to be some fire retardant material etc.?? Hope you can reply will keep checking back as we wait for our parts. Thanks a million I have been wanting to do this and with your video decided we could thank again!
Hi Rob! Im glad that I can help and that you found mu video useful. That is heat resistant cotton which can withstand very high temperature without releasing any toxic fumes in the room. I just updated all links in the video description, please check them again. Just one tip you can use also silicone glue to hold the cotton it in the place. Remember it takes time to cure. Cheers!
how is your cr-10s performing after over a year of use on the new heated bed upgrade? was there anything you changed to the heated bed after you made the video?
I got bored, so I Great! I never had any problems with it. Still runs awesome! After this upgrade I have replaced stock glas with Ultrabase and I add stepper motor dampers and heatsinks. Only God knows how many printing hours I have on my CR10S, it's real working horse! :)
Having trouble with mine. The last step is what is not working for me. The 2 wires that trigger the relay. On the board the 2 pins on the board is already taken by the nozzle. I tried the 2 that wasn't used and nothing. I did try the location you originally set for and it doesn't work unless I run turn on the nozzle temp. But relay stops once nozzle temp is reached. Seems to me it's reading what the nozzle temp running. Got any ideas?
Got it working. It was the first 2 pins for my board.
So I'm assuming this works on the standard cr-10 as well? This upgrade is very tempting.
Yes.
Did I just saw wiper as a pad on your desk - great source for electrostatic charges? LoL!
xaverifm :D That's just to stop screws from bouncing around and to keep the table from scratch during assembly.
This upgrade is great! I took it to 105 c in 2 min. 18 sec. and planning to do some small ABS parts to mod a web cam for Octopi. I did notice it always passes the target temp by 2 or 3 degrees, then drops 1 or 2 below then locks in at 10- 20 seconds. The thing I did different, I insulated with black plumber's felt rated 982 c ( I know overkill) and used silicone adhesive rated at 204 c. The only complaint, using my Ultrabase, it take much longer for the temp to drop for the bed to release the part. Most likely due to the insulation and not a bad trade off.
Thanks for sharing this content. It's awesome.
Can you specify which difference is the upgrade version? The site does not specify anything, thank you.
I had an issue with my bed not getting to temperature. I saw your tutorial and got all the items as stated. The wiring on my box is different to yours where you connect the solid state relay. I have two yellow wires above the black wire and your seems to have two spare slots and then the two yellow wires. Would this cause my solid state relay not to turn on?
Take the 10USD multimeter and test every wire and every output on motherboard and SSR and then connect it nice and slow then re-check everything with multimeter when you test the heated bed. Also add one more ground wire from heat-bed screw to the ground om the AC switch or powersupply, you might need to dril a small hole on the bottom plate or on the back of the control box.
@@NexiTech Thank you for the reply. I have a V2.1 motherboard. I disconnected the hot bed and connected that to the SSR and it worked. Thank you again for the tutorial.
Great video! Althought a little exagerate with the 29mins to reach 85C xD. It takes around 10mins or so but not half an hour
Maybe you have newest CR10S model? 24V? My both old CR10 and CR10S are first generation and they have 12V heated bed. Takes a long time to heat up. I made review of CR10S and I shown timelaps video how long it takes to heat up. Fast forward this video to 19:08
ua-cam.com/video/tFfMPjKhF8c/v-deo.html
Mine takes a lot longer than 10 minutes as well and it will not always reach 95 degrees which makes it very hard to print ABS.
Great Guide, I cant quite make out where you have connected the 2 wires that control the relay on and off. Can I connect it to the same place where the 2 small wires from the heater bed moffet connected to on the motherboard? This is also where 40mm fan that cools the mother board is located.
Fluke752 Yes that's right. Where two wires(heat bed) connect to mosfet. You can use that two wires just cut conector and connect them to relay.
My CR-10S bed is not heating.. could move around the wires and get it to heat but when bed started moving the heat would stop. thought i had short in bed wires got a new bed worked for about 2 months then the same issue came back had to wiggle wires around to get bed to start heating checked the wires going into the plug showing good connection from the board and to the plug and to the mosfet. Now i cant get the bed to heat at all. i checked with multi-meter no power is going to the bed when the temp is turned on. Would this upgrade maybe fix my issue?
great video. you are a genius maker. thanks.
@Nexi Tech Hey mate, I am planning to use an EZABL device in combination with the Keenovo 1000w AC heater. I read on th3d website that 'cheaper' SSRs 'leak' current and therefor mess with the accuracy of the device. Do you use an EZABL? And if so which SSR do you use for that?
great !! i do on my CR10S
and all it's ok! TANKSS
Awesome video!
I know you are looking into doing the same thing with your TRONXY X5SA and since you have both these machines, what heating element would you recommend for the TRONXY X5SA?
Can wait for the TRONXY heatbed upgrade; need to order parts before mine gets here.
Thanks man!
The Looking Glass Thanks man! Well at the beginning I was thinking to go only with 12V 30A heatbed mosfet and insulation for my Tronxy X5SA but power is not enough. I measure only 17.5A(210W) pull from the 30A mosfet and 30A power supply and that's because of 0.8ohm resistance of the heated bed. Not quite enough. Then I was thinking to add one more 12V power supply or replace it by 24V powersupply and run whole printer or heated bed only on 24V. In that case Heatbed would pull around 30A (700w) but then we need to replace heatbed 16Awg wires with 12Awg silicone wires add one more 12V or 24V powersupply, we need Heat-sinks for borh power-supply as they would run at maximum power when heatbed is on and 24V heatbed mosfet. I think I might go with AC 600W-750W silicone heater and SSR as it's much simplier to install and possibly cheaper.
P.S. You have all Tronxy X5SA upgrade parts listed under It's review video.
Cool! I too think that going with 220Vac is the best, cheapest and above all safest way to go. All I need to find now if the largest heat mat I can find.
That´s where my question comes in: what is the CD of the holes on the TRONXY bed? Will also ask in the forum see if anybody knows.
Great video as always, but is that connector on the black cable to the heated bed rated for mains voltage?
Yep, my question exactly. But I think that it should be enough.
It's not a problem because load in amps is way to lower then before upgrade. Before was 20A on the connector and now is 3.4A
Steven Bacon Also there seems to be a metal outer sleeve just separated from mains wire by a layer of tape/small gap. If plug were damaged eg crushed or dropped then there's the possibility of it going live. While it may work I don't think I'd personally risk doing this mod. Any faults with the wiring could result in a live plate/frame which is afaik unearthed. If you are tempted by this mod, consult a qualified electrician.
freeyourinnertube If you pause video and look close on 3:59 you can see that tape is just extra protection over plastic cover. That plastic part is inside of plug and I add tape just to get extra safety.
Nexi Tech Hi. I saw the tube on disassembly. On reassembly at 5:45 you mention it but you don't see it being replaced. I like your channel but worry about this upgrade as it has the potential to go seriously wrong. As shown you don't use upgraded connectors, (cables, and power supply), the chasis isn't earthed, and the heated bed is only protected by the appliance fuse, a smaller fuse could be added for the heated bed alone. Ive done a number of printer mods that you've done, but will not be going near this one.
Thanks a lot for the guide. I have mounted my replay externally in a printed box. I looked at the specs on the B-7000 glue and it says it is only suitable up to 66 degrees C! Are you using a high temperature version by any chance?
You're welcome. Nope its standard B-7000 glue. When glue is cured and when it pass over 70C it turns to hard rock state and it stays like that. It's hard to remove it after but I don't see reason why would you do it. Anyway you can always use silicon glue that can withstand higher temperatures but in the time of making video I didn't have it so I just use b-7000.
Hello. I got the same printer, but there was no filament outrun sensor and on the main cable that comes out from the power supply. Do. i have cr10 or 10s, how can i distinguish it?
FOGLIA NERA GRAPHICS Do you have Dual Z axis? It could be CR10S
@@NexiTech i have not, but it is super silent. It has the fan that points directly on the noozle. This is weird
Well I tried following these instructions exactly and it shorted my power supply so maybe the dissenting comments have a point...
You almost certainly did something wrong though. Most probably you connected 220V AC to a 12V DC line, maybe you had a bad connection somewhere. If done correctly there is no way you could fry your power supply.
If you "followed these instructions exactly", you would not have shorted your power supply. You screwed up. Your fault 100%.
How do those Insulation cottons work? To me it seems they would keep the heat away from the glass bed. What's the actual surface temp of the glass in comparison to the thermistor read value?
You put the insulation on the underside of the heater, not the top, so it doesn't interfere with heat transfer to the glass build surface.
You have attached a 750 watt load directly to the mains supply WITHOUT any mention of the fuse? Assuming the power jack has an integrated fuse, I don't know how it could be sized correctly since the original AC load was far smaller....safe???
D A There is replaceable 10A fuse in Cr10S 3D printer switch(10Ax220V=2200W)
He is a genius!
:D
Hello, I’m actually coming from your video about you printing the fan nozzle for your printer. I saw you sent some people the settings you used so I wanted to know if you could possibly sent them to me as well :)
You should allow the top of the spring to touch the aluminum bed from the bottom. Right now it touches the foam. :(((
Tigran Ohanyan Foam(insulation cotton) is so fragile that as soon as you start to screw down heated bed metal spring will cut out ring and touch rhe aluminum heated bed.
My heat pad showed up 120v 750w then watching the video I started wondering...Here in the US we have 120v at the wall but yours said 220v Can I assume you live where you have 220v? And can I use the 120v pad with all the same connections you used in your video. Wait for the relay should be here next week will it accept the different pad? Thanks in advance
If I remember correctly I linked a 25A relay. It will work both with 120V and 230V pad heater. No worries my friend. Good luck with upgrade :)
great video ... How did yoiu ensured that the thermistor has the same behaviour ? i e themperature is correct ? Thanks
Olivier Bouilliez Thanks. Well Heater has the same 100k thermistor as original and I have checked with two infra red temp sensors and thermal camera.
Nexi Tech Well donne. I believe this double check was important. Did not hear you mention it in the vidéo, although extremely detailed for other things. I Knox IR ils impossible to ne both concise and extensive ..!!!
are you in the U.S i bought the exact same heat pad 220v 750w, i think i may have bought the wrong one. will this work for my cr10s in the u.s?
Did you get it working? How?
Really great video, very good detail :) I'm looking for a high quality version for the CR10 S5, can you point me in the right direction please??
Thank you, Yes sure, have look on my CR10 Max review - ua-cam.com/video/lE9i1-DX1aI/v-deo.html
Should the wires to the temperature sensor be polarized. As far as I can watch the video, connect the red wires to a terminal on the print label marked + and -
I just misunderstood the video. It's not the 2 red wires from the heat plate that are put on the print, so I've figured out.
I just finished modifying my CR-10S with the 750w 120V heating blanket. I used heat sink compound on the back of the SSR to ensure a good thermal bond with the power supply housing it's bolted to. It's amazing how fast I can reach 60 degrees, and achieve 120 degrees!
But there are two problems.
* The thermistor reads higher than the actual temperature. That might be partly due to location, but the old one was accurate and located similarly. I thought this one had identical characteristics to the original. Do I need to set a different type in the firmware?
* The temperature of the build plate swings + and - 2 degrees for a 4 degree temperature swing. Is there a way to reduce the hysteresis and keep it within a 2 degree total swing?
Hey, first you have to change your thermistor in the firmware; the cr10 uses the #5 but most of the silcone heaters use #1. And second you may need to calibrate your pid settings!
@@sercan4320 Thanks! I'll be updating the firmware soon and will try that. There was no information on what thermistor was used from the seller.
Considering you've got the wattage meter there, did you test how many watts the psu is pulling without the heated bed? Give people an idea of what they can downgrade to.
Joe Yes, 68W was the peak number at 250c on hotend and at max printing speed, 250mm/s travel and 150mm/s print speed. So 70W/12v=5.8A I recommend at least 100W(8A 12V) powersupply to be safe and it can be even passive one without cooling fan(silent type).
As a person that is not an electrical engineer I'm trying to understand something here. I see a number of comments that say this is a "no-no" because the box is not rated for the 220 mat. Forgive me if any of my terminology is off here...again, I'm not an expert in any of this.
My question is with regards to the 115/230 switch on the box. Is this switch meant to regulate or control the voltage? If that is the case, would there not be multiple components inside the box rated for 220 volts in the event the user has reason to select the 230 option? Or do these two things have nothing to do with one another? I realize the numbers are varied (110/115 and 220/230), but I was under the impression that was the purpose of this toggle.
What they are pointing out is the connector coming from the heating pad (the one he reused) that plugs into the back of the box may not be rated at 220V (I don't know if it is or not). Before this upgrade it only carried 12V, after upgrade it carries 220V. All connectors have both a current and voltage rating. You should not exceed either of them.
Second, none of the circuitry in the box runs on AC, 110V or 220V. They all run on low voltage DC (like any other IC's). They take the 110V or 220V mains power through some circuitry (usually a transformer) and convert to DC that the IC's use on the motherboard. The switch tells the conversion circuitry what to expect, it save costs if you tell it what to expect rather than add the extra circuitry so it can figure it out. In either case you don't use AC to run motherboards.
@@pragmaticrealist Thanks for the reply. It is greatly appreciated.
Hi, how do you make sure when the nozzle outputs the filament that it actually touches the bed? Whenever I print the extruder/nozzle are two far from the bed the print doesn't't stick. Any advise please
David Sonson
Home the printer, then place A4 paper under the nozzle and heated bed. Adjust the level on each corner(or close too). Paper should not be stuck. Then double check on the middle point of heated bed as well. You have video on my channel "how to level the heated bed" It can help.
P.S. You can use paper glue stick, blue tape, hair spray, Aprinta Fix spray etc to help with adhesive.
Another great video :)
Thank you ;)
I bought the 70watt 110v installed it.... Now it heats up without it being programmed to and it still slow to heat up.Thoughts would be appreciated!
Nevermind figured it out
nice upgrade, how about the power consumption and the cost in the long term ?
750W is quite large and the printer will turn the relay on and off during a print. did you measure the time when the relay is on ?
For print that take hours to be done, the printer will cost in electricity as much as a small home heater.
ALB Workshop It's not constant 750W obviously ;)
I have instaled Heated bed insulation so it maintain heat much better and heat loss is minimised. I would say that now it saves electricity actualy. Before powersupply was runing constant on ABS and it still printer could not reach or maintain high temps for ABS. And for PETG and PLA it reach temps very fast so much better efficiency actually.
@@NexiTech thanks for your answer
Hi ALB Workshop. I will just copy the reply I gave Seacred.
I have used this upgrade for about 4 months and - no, it will only use the power needed to maintain it's temperature. Exactly like your old built-in controller did. The original controller had to work more often and for longer time as it had much lower power. In theory the power used during a 20h print would be exactly the same (in KW h) but spent at different time intervals.
Hello. Please provide a wiring diagram?
I followed your steps and used all the same parts you used, but my bed does not heat up. My relay actually smells a bit burnt, like a capacitor smell. My extrude works fine. Any idea what would it be? It seems like bed is not getting power?
Well that's sad. Have you test the heater pad in the first place without relay? is it working? If so maybe relay is bad. Try to get replacement and next time do a check of everything before you install all components on CR10.
hello, could you give us the model of the screws that you use on the power supply?
Sorry friend. I just use random screws that I had. Just keep in mind they need to be short otherwise you can short out power supply. And if you do this upgrade install Anycubic ULTRABASE and avoid using paper clips. Am afraid they could maybe damage heat-pad after long period of use and it might be dangerous. Adding one ground wire to aluminium plate or to one adjusting screws is good option to. Never be to safe. Cheers :)
Thanks for your advices.
I will pay attention to the grounding.
Thank you
May I know what type of glue you use to stick the insulation cotton to heated bed? TQ
You can use silicone glue. The good one is thermal silicone glue for heatsinks. After drying/curing it turns out rock solid.
do i have to use insulation material ? i dont care if it'll take a bit longer to heat up, as long as its the only con.
Nope, isolation is not necessary.
@@NexiTech awesome,thx.
how much the outside dimensions are and how much is the control panel?
mosfet link no good. New mosfet link please?
The silicone heater link works, but the heater is unavailable. Please help
Tiberio Cellini Fixed. Try link now.
Nexi Tech thanks
Nexi Tech How much will the printer consume in watts with this upgrade?
Sweet upgrade😁
Cotton will catch fire. What part for high temp pc prints?
That's is high temperature resistant cotton. If I remember correctly it was rated up to 900 degrees celsius. Google it.
@@NexiTech I need to upgrade my system, it's been over a month and I still have no response regarding the mosfet. Please update. Got a 3d printer I can't do anything with.