Silence the CR 10
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I hear printers in my sleep, at least they will be quieter now... When you have 11 or more printers running it really pays to put some time in to bring their overall noise down. I decided to make a video on how I quieted my new CR-10 and show you what a difference just a few changes can make.
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Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing the fan upgrade. Having quieter (and more reliable) fans will preserve ones sanity!
Just finished this mod on my CR-10 - definitely worth the money.
I found it really frustrating that you would keep talking while trying to measure the sound of the printer.
Don't need to be quite for 5 minutes to get a quick reading with my phone. I'm not doing major scientific testing here.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting I can't fully speak for him, but I think he might've meant from a content standpoint and not in terms of your reading accuracy. I think it would have translated better to the audience if you had overlaid your voice after the fact in post so the video that's on the screen is showing the audio levels of the printer and not your voice + printer. Not that we don't trust what you saw, but to me I would've even rather you just not hold the phone up at all and just tell us the numbers because then what we were being shown on screen would match up with what you were saying. It was just awkward from a viewer perspective to have the number bounce around and made you holding up the phone to read audio not add anything to the overall video. Super minor gripe though! I just saw his comment and thought I'd maybe describe it in a more constructive way. Anyways I love your videos and I really appreciate all the work you put into them. You've given me a ton of ideas for my printer build! Keep it up!
@@FTGTapGod i agree 100% a 5 to 10 seconds quiet would of been wonderful
Completely agree with you. That entire segment I was saying to myself "shut your mouth so I can read the meter!" Super frustrating.
@@slickfast Yeah, it totally made this video sort of useless.
Thank you Shane for that video!! I have done actually the same with one difference that a power supply fan in my case is Silent 6. With ambient noise 33-36db I noticed up to 42db while printer starts, and around 53db while power fan runs. Confirm, that is nice improvement :) In one box of Noctua I've found 3 pin to 2 pin connector (so one problem less). Others two in main unit required modification. Instead of soldering and cutting orginal connectors I used crimping tool. Works like a charm :) First of all I was upsaid about Noctua's price, but now I do understand it was worth it!! Cheers
Rubber O rings between the fan screw and case also help reduce vibrational noise st the case.
Just use tac to hold the wires, works great. If you turn the iron down a bit you can use that to shrink the heat wrap too for small sections.
WOW!!
Great video.
Now all we have to wait for is that, Creality see your video and let them upgrade the printer, so the product is "Top Of The Line" (or at least better) and we don't have to spent extra "bucks" to fix/pay for their faults, in order to get a great and functioning product.
All great mods and they do work, another thing that works well for the sound resonance from your table top from the printer is add a cheap yoga mat cut to fit under the 3d printer and the surface it is sitting on
I recently found some feet on Thingiverse that use racquetballs and so far they have been amazing. I added them to my CR-10 and CR-10S so far.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Do you have a link for the racquetball build you used?
@@bp5781 I have not uploaded the STL yet. Check back this weekend and I should have it done by then.
Looks and sounds good Shane - TY.
If you want to silence yout CR-10 printer, the easiest way is to insulate the control unit box from power supply box, which is the source of vibrations by some foam rubber inserted as pad between those two tin boxes. Just unscrew the bottom of the control box, unscrew the 4 screws which hold the power supply, put or stick the insulation inbetween and screw it all together. Result is guaranteed. Then the noisiest part of the printer is the cooling fan of the extruder. It is worth to exchange it for better fan with magnetic bearings, which is quieter and produces less vibrations. These two easy to do chages will reduce the noice of your printer to acceptable level for minimum costs.
Fantastic vid! I will perform this upgrade in the near future!
For the control box you can do a 120mm fan mod that will cool the entire control box. This saves money and it is more quiet than replacing the individual fans. You can find several different options to print out. I'm using thing 2568828 with the legs it mentions in the description. It works great.
I was thinking the same thing. Why the hell do I need to do so many fans?
Do you have a video on the upgrades you've done? I can see a few but would love a quick overview of what you've done, why and was it needed. Thanks
Not yet. I was waiting for some final parts to come in. I have everything printed, just need to put them on and do a video about it.
I installed the Noctua NF-A4x20 (Noctua 40x20) wow that thing is super loud. I can hear the fan across the room. surprisingly the Noctua 40x10 is really quiet.
That is odd. Maybe you got a bad one? I can't hear any of my Noctua fans, regardless of size.
I'll buy another, just want it to make sure. thanks for replying :)
Maybe you got a fake...?
I added some Legs to my CR-10 that has Racket Balls for the feet and that has stopped any resignation from my printer to the table top and has quiet the printer by a lot.
Hello, I see you fit 12v fans whereas the PSU powers all fans with 24v ? Or am I missing something ? Thanks :)
I've put squash balls as feet for the print frame and they really do drop the noise levels alot. Dots on ball doesn't matter here. :)
You might be ale to find some small standoff’s for the dampener for the motor so you can use all the screw holes
After finishing this I went back and added the other 2 back. They JUST clear the motor but if they are too close for your liking you could dremel some of the threads off of them.
also, put open cell foam (scotch brite pads) under the rubber feet to isolate the noise from the table.
I found some racquetball feet which I am using now.
by the way dont ever worry about breaking "Warranty Void Stickers" because those are illegal based on Federal law you're allowed to fix your own objects and its illegal for them to void your warranty if you break the sticker
my 2 cents : People should think about printing time and material usage before designing part like the thing for controll box.
If your solder's rosin core flux, the flux can oxidize over time and become less effective. Just visual check the joint for proper flow and it should be all good.
I've been using this roll for 15 years and have never had an issue.
can you swap out the part cooling fan for a noctua? My part cooling fan is off balance and i can tell it vibrates when i'm leveling the bed with a piece of paper.
You can but I recommend Sunon fans now.
Sharing this one😊
change the main broad 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 they work on 12v 13.8 is perfect change fans to 40mm print covers ive done this on my cr10 s5 i forget its on a lot lol and you have a 32bit broad better
Those boards didn't exist when I made this video years ago.
Thanks Shane, I need to do the same for my CR-10 and the Anycubic i3 Mega. Cheers, JAYTEE
I'm almost done with the video for the Anycubic i3 Mega. Just waiting for fans to come in on Tuesday.
Fantastic. Will be interesting to see which fans you ended up going with. Cheers, JAYTEE
absolutely do it for the anycubic i3 mega, almost all extruder fan are noisy and often broken, i have changed it (the left side fan) and sound totally change
Thanks +Rosario Ricci. Compared to my Cocoon Create Touches x 3 the i3 is really noisy. Have been too busy of late to get to it, and thankfully the printers have their own room so it's not that bad. Cheers, JAYTEE
May i ask when will the i3 mega 's video come out? i changed the right side ertruder fan seems noise is louder
All these replacement fans push less air at lower pressure than the stock fans. You can achieve the same results putting a 50 cent potentiometer inline with the existing fans to adjust the rpm. Good luck with filament jams.
Well I'm at nearly 7 months now with this setup and no issues.
Where can you buy the Red premade Dupont male & female connector set? I can only find the female connectors for connecting tot pinheaders.
The link is in the description: amzn.to/2WkEuun
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Thank you.
Question: Why they called JST connectors?
I did think that these are called "Dupont" connectors.
That's why i could not find anything.
Do you know if these (JST) sets come in more then 2 in versions?
About Noctua:
These are the best fans i know.
Noctua has actualy also 60mm fans (NF-A6x25).
The only problem is that they are 20mm thick.
I could manage to put one in my powersupply by move the cover 10 mm up.
You have to make 6 little metal plates with 2 holes, 10mm apart for each screwhole.j
Screw of rivid the plates with one hole to the chassis on all 6 holes with the other hole up.
Then you can screw the cover with the 20mm fan on to these holes.
Now you do have an almost complete silend powersupply.
I’ve been looking for a GoPro mount for the CR10 bed and haven’t found anything like that one! Where did you find it or have you designed it?
The stepper motor dampeners won't help a lot unless you'd use dampened screws/screw mounts. Without decoupling the screws the structure bound sound will take its path through the screws into the aluminum frame. So there's some potential left...
Would these mods be the same for all current models of the CR-10?
Yes. I just went a different route for my CR-10 and CR-10S to show different ways you can mod the machine.
pretty cool!
What tool are you using to unscrew everything
Was a cheap set from Harbor Freight. I use these now: amzn.to/3bgWYjv
what fan was used as the part cooling fan?
I just got an e3d v6 and was going to print a fang mount for it before putting it on
Can you get dampers for Nema 15. I googled but came up with nothing.
What's that green piece on the front?
Thanks for this!
Great video, very informative, thank you!!! I learned to solder watching this video, and the shrink wrap is awesome... thank you!!!
Thanks and I'm glad it helped!
x motor cables should be at bottom
Please look into a Lineman Splice, or a Western Union splice. Far better way to join a wire, and takes solder like a boss. It is the only way I solder wires now, and I do board level on industrial drives running 480VAC and 400Amps+. And I use the same splice for the little 12 and 24V fans in those units.
Also, if you cut the shielding on the PSU over the fan, it cuts the noise even more, as there isn't the restrictions on the air flow. Both of my printers have this mod, and it cuts the noise a lot. My Wanhao i3 is the same style as the CR-10, my FLSun is exposed PSU. I accept the risks of my fingers on the open PSU. If I didn't, I would print something better.
do you think is it possible to remove the top aluminium cover of the psu and put insted a big slow fan?
Yes. There are a few things on thingiverse that do this and add a 120mm PC case fan.
can you please tell me where I can find the files for the legs on the control box?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2413227
For the pcu fan, which one is the signal wire? They are all black so idk
The middle wire is normally black so one of the 2 end ones should be the +. Hook it up to each and see when it turns on.
I took another 8 to 10db's off the total by placing the entire CR-10 and Control box on this : www.amazon.co.uk/Washing-Machine-Universal-Anti-Vibration-Mat/dp/B00E0JVN7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518845226&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+machine+rubber+mat I dont use the CR-10's spool holder so, proximity wasnt too much of an issue between Control Box and the frame of the printer.
Very cool. Since finishing this video I added some racquetball mounts and the noise level has goon down more.
Why not just use an enclosure built with noise cancelling materials? It helps with temperature control and most importantly can prevent toxic fumes from circulating around the room.
If you print mainly ABS, surely an enclosure is easier/better. I mainly print PLA and PETG so an enclosure would do more harm than good for them.
you made a review and have no opinion on if it is worth it or not?
This video was not a printer review. As for the mods? Totally worth it if you need to quiet your machine down.
What is he using the first 2 noctua fans for?
The control box.
please can you link the stl file of the cable holder for the soldering ?
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1725308
Thanks! ;)
The warranty is worthless tbh, you basically just pay for the part that breaks
Thing is that the CR-10S is the quietest printer I have 😂
A lot of Unessaserry work for little gain,... Print yourself a Double 120mm Control Box stand, remove the bottom and attach,... you'll never here the controlbox ever again.
Hi, i'm totally new to 3D printing. Is this something on thingiverse?
@@Tabs793 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839191
I can tell you that if you buy parts from Gearbest, even with an added, and paid for insurance, they do not honor the warranty in any fails or missing shipment.
I have had a year long communication with Gearbest due to an ($12 extra) ensured delivery that didn't arrive.
They only know one word: NO.
I would never expect warranty from any Chinese company.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting But you should expect them to deliver what you've paid for
dude just keeps pulling out tools damn
You acquire a lot over the years...
3k hours? My poor machines ging on 15k hours of use............
2 years ago lol
@@Fugatech3DPrinting I knew you would point that out. lol
I can't stand how ugly the CR-10 is. idk maybe it's just me...
It is just a supersized i3 3D printer. I personally hate the control box but that is a future project :)
This machine only has ONE Z Axis Leadscrew drive.....That's like buying a car with only 3 wheels....Mechanically, it's a disaster, and you are fussing over the noise..? The dual Z drive CR10-S is how it should be.
All right, thats why the CR-10 is one of the most popular printers out there. Stop trolling.
Good info.. thanks!
You should have put up a warning for the power supply, a power supply can have current stored in its capacitors. If you accidentally bridge the terminals on these caps you can literally die. So of course, discretion is advised
Surprised how far down the comments I had to read before someone said this. Definitely needs a warning.
Using tmc2130 drivers makes the motors really quiet which makes the dampers obsolete.
The main noise source on the cr-10 is the control box and it's fans.
+1.... running tmc2100 on xy. Best mod ever, smoother prints and super quiet!
Brian Lee yeah every trinamic driver will make the motors quiet. The 2130 are common since the prusa MK3 came out.
So I ordered some external stepper boards but they don't have the correct amount of pins for some reason. Now I have to order new ones.
Fugatech 3D Printing usually you should be able to make yourself some wires to make them work. It's just step, direction and enable and some vcc and ground. But the reprap wiki has an lot of information on it.
The problem is that the input from the board is only 3 pins vs 4 as it is supposed to be. I'm checking my order to see if I ordered the wrong thing or if they sent me the wrong thing.
Great Vid. Awesome content. Quiet is goooood. I love voiding warranties, I used the little rubber dampeners that came with the Noctua fans for the PS, even quieter. In theory anyhow. I sent a request to Noctua in a review to make a 60mm x 15mm Just for power supplies. I was just counting all the Noctua fans I have purchased and I'm up to 6. With 2 new in the box ready to go. Great product. Also those dampers make a huge difference. My printers are in my living room now my GF can watch tv. They cut way down on resonance, at least 30db.
Great Video, what kind of build surface is that? Looks like the prusa's. Cool!
Looks like it's Folger Tech's surface, you can get it from their website
Yep it is Folgertech's build surface. Amazing stuff. Get some here: bit.ly/2zAZoLb and don't forget the coupon "FUGA"!
Fugatech 3D Printing I found a 60mm Noctua NF A6X25, is that ok instead if the brandkess fan?
Fugatech 3D Printing Just to be sure, do I need to buy all 5 fans?
JST connectors
For everyone noticing (or experiencing) the loose Noctua 40x20 on the screws: the fan has some recesses that make the screws too long; I had no other part available so I made a sleeve with the heat-shrinking pipes, which locked nicely the fan in position. Also, my exhaust fan was not correctly mounted, strangely.
hey, liked the video. I'm interested giving this a shot. Do you not need a 24v step down model to run the noctua fans for a Creality CR-10S?
Maybe in new versions. This one is 12v.
Why do all you people resort to splicing the fan wires. Just once I would like to see someone use the proper connectors.
Disappointing in a way as you did not noise test the fans 1 by 1 and record airflow and dba to really show what worked and what did not. Good video on swap out though.
Sorry I'm not a scientist. I did the best I could and this works out great for me.
stand the printer on some old wet suit style material night & day difference
Most comprehensive. Thanks.
Thanks!
Noooo! The original sound is a mesmerizing music to my ears.
lulz
I have CR-10 S4, an I do my silencing upgrades. Here is the reality: NR1 is the hot end front fan. You need to: 1) change the fan for quieter and little slower. 2) redesign the fan box, so it is more efficient, 3) remove the fan grille so the wind doesn't go in turbulent manner to the fan 4) round it well, so there is no sharp edge near the fan, 5) experiment with power input to the fan, further lowering noise. NR2: side fan. Similar story. NR3: the power supply box rear fan. You can completely remove this one. NR4 middle box fan: replace for quieter (noctua) too.
NR5: power supply fan: reversed the flow and added 50Ohms resistor in series. Cut the grille out, so the air goes smoothly in... Made 1inch stands for the control box... Stepper dampeners are nearly useless here. Next step would be new driver board with better stepper drivers.
This really helps understand which fans are needed and how to do it from A to Z!
Great job!!!!
Glad it helped!
thak you very much for you're quick reply.
Did you need longer screws to mount on the extruder? Mine fan only fits in reverse. I probably should've looked if I could've pulled off the rubber and made it work.
I also used 2x 10mm width 40mm fans. -_- Dang it. I should've looked at this first and got the 20mm width for the PSU.
8.2m^3/h (4.8cfm) vs. 9.4m^3/h (5.5cfm) :/
The dampers are well worth the time and (minimal) expense. The fans... not so much. I changed 2 of the 3 on my CR-10S and dropped the noise a little less than 3 dB. I was quite disappointed. www.snafu.org/other/3dprint/20180113/
use fan temperature controller and you get alot more silent printer
So useful!
I do not understand why people do not re-wire the power supply with longer wires? There is plenty of room
Shayne, you show four fans in the video, but list 5. Which one don't I need? Thank you.
I just give options of 10mm thick or 20mm thick. You pick the one you want to use.
@@Fugatech3DPrinting Got it. Thank you, Shayne!
Next time you are doing sound testing can you record. Then add your voice later.
That GoPro mount is awesome! Did you design it?
Yessir. Here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2585996 Now this put the GoPro housing directly in the center of the bed which is bad, since the lens is off to the left. I changed it up and will upload the other model as soon as I test it and it puts the lens in the center of the bed.
As to the fan noise most of the time the solution is as simple as just oiling them.
My Ender 2 had 1 horribly noisy fan in the electronics compartment and when I peeled off the sticker on it I noticed that the bearing is literally dry.
A couple drops of oil made it nice and quiet
What kind of Oil do you use? I always thought about doing that but never knew if it was safe to do or not. Or what type of oil to use.
Some "Machine oil" from a local hardware store.
The sticker says "for sewing machines, door locks, hinges etc" so basically any liquid runny machine oil will do.
Engine oil works fine as well
At the hobby store they will have a small oil pen used for rc's. These work great for me.
Is it same on cr10S?
Yes
Since you replaced the PSU fan with a seemingly generic model did it have the intended effect on the noise level? Or was it just an overall quieting? I'm planning the motor dampers and was thinking about fans too...
Motor dampers have the biggest effect on noise level. Fans help a small amount.
So I know people complain about the noctua 40x10 fans not being strong enough for their hotends and they get "heat creep", is that true? Already bought some, so just wondering. Thanks
They work well for me on all my printers except for the FT-5 due to the enclosure. I have them on 5 or 6 printers now with no issues.
Is there room to replace the 50x10mm fan with a 60x10mm? I would have to print a new bracket, but it would be more reliably quiet for longer with a noctua.
With the feet, yes.
you're vid is great but I can't seem to find the file on thingeverse for the feet for the control box. Do you have a link for that?
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2413227
Any update on how the fans perform since installation? Some of these fans have some bad reviews on amazon.
They perform the same as when I put them on. Great. Since I put them on they new have a few hundred hours of run time and have not gotten any louder yet.
I bought mine a month ago and I can barely hear it. The only thing you can really hear is the fans and they're pretty silent.
They might have changed up fans in the year since I got mine.
I look down products you recommended in the list below the video. Gelid silence 6 is for the PSU?
I used a Silent 6 whisper quiet.
What is the bed surface you are using? Please provide link!
It was the Anycubic Ultrabase. I don't think they sell the big version anymore but here is a Creality knock off: amzn.to/2Agd8gj
Does anyone know where I can get the stl for that handle for the heated bed?
What handle are you talking about?
Should just do a standalone mod...
Did that in another video :P
How did it print since this video?
Still going strong. I've done lots more mods to it and it is my go to printer for large PLA or PETG prints.
Will these upgrades work on the cr-10s
It's mostly the same from what I see so it should. Especially the fans.
Can you fit a 25mm deep fan into the PSU?
I didn't try because other said you could not.
2 of my allen screws stripped and i cant get them out so guess I am heading to lowes tomorrow and am gonna have to find a way to get this one out
I've had that happen on several printers. Best thing to do is either use a star bit or use a saw/dremel to cut a slot into the screw head and use a flat head screwdriver to get it out.
just get a screw extractor from a hardware store ... use a drill/driver in reverse to get it out
True but if you have a bit set you probably have star bits so no extra cost :)
hypercube update plzzz
Part 4 will be out in a week or 2
Sorbothane Vibration Dampening Feet - Used In High End Audio
You're Welcome.
given up on the hypercube?
Not at all. New video will be out in a week or 2
Thanks for putting this together. It's been most helpful in seeing how to quieten my newly purchased CR-10S. BTW, could you please try and get in the habit of using the correct pronunciation of 'sol-der' rather than the botched yankee version 'sod-der'. My OCD goes into overdrive whenever I hear it mispronounced .. LOL. Cheers from OZ.
Well I am from the north so...