Upon popular demand I might need to add: in case it wasn't obvious the method I used here to measure low resistances is only good to 3 or 4 decimal places, even if my writing down all the digits from the calculator might suggest otherwise. Three decimal places is plenty good for hobby purposes, but you're obviously not going to replace a scientific instrument capable of measuring 10 digits with a multimeter.
Hand-made heated beds? Wooden printer frames? I feel like I'm back in 2009!! This is fantastic stuff man - I've gotta go back and watch the rest of the series!
Carving aluminum foil by hand when I can build a complicated machine and program it to doing it for me? My dude, You are the definition of an engineer. Congrats on the bed heater!! I love this channel and you are an inspiration
Thanks! Yeah well, the machine was mostly done already, why not let it build part of itself 😁 I always love using the machine I'm building as soon as it's somewhat usable to make parts to finish that very machine, haha. Did it with the bandsaw and table saw years ago
I like you. You have a real good balance of creativity, intelligence and cleanliness. You actually come up with simple and beautiful solutions that are neither over- nor under-thought.
btw, using small knives to cut the aluminum foil after gluing it on the glass bed, is simply put, genius. You know what? You inspired me a lot. I plan to use your method for painting. A sort of stencil... Thank you!
Before watching I just check the length of your post: almost 37 minutes! That will be pretty entertaining and in fact it is. Great job indeed. Thank you Ben! The suspense was horrific. I said to myself, wish he won't give up now... Your prototype meets all your expectations. I just wonder why you want to go beyond 60°C, the temperature I always set to print PLA (frankly I'm not excited by other trendy filaments). I can't wait your next post with some "real printing tests". Keep it up. I wish you'll go beyond 15K views with this. You deserve it so much for your skills and your actual acting talent.
Hi Philibert! As my second longest video ever I new it would be right up your alley 😁 I wanted to tag you on "X" but your account had been suspended... Main reason I wanted to go to 120° is to have enough head room for other materials since I plan on recycling PET water bottles into filament, but 94° should just barely do as well. As ridiculous as it may sound, my driving factor for building a 3D printer is small parts organizers - Those are incredibly expensive, and if I could print them using recycled PET that would be awesome!!
@@ChronicMechatronic I've been watching tons of youtube videos on PET water bottles filament. I understood that its main issue is... its length (per bottle). Too short, you have to glue them a way or another otherwise you'd be constrained in miniature-world outputs😉. 94°C is beyond decent really. I'm glad you noticed that my twitter account has been suspended permanently just because I said that a mercenary's death is irrelevant, he's paid to kill someone who has nothing to do with himself. Elon musk's algorithms considered that as a call to kill someone... Maybe you have a brand new X follower now.
Yeah, the way everyone does these PET bottle filaments is inherently flawed. Cutting bottles into strips that get fed into a hotend will never work because different parts of the bottle have different wall thicknesses and I'm sure it varies quite dramatically from one bottle to another as well. It needs to be done PROPERLY, which I'm planning to do, lol. I'm going to make a small Precious Plastics inspired shredder to turn bottles into tiny chips which then get fed into a real extrusion machine with an auger to extrude the plastic into a consistent filament. It's going to be significantly more expensive than the 3D printer, but that's just unavoidable when scaling down an entire industrial process. You see, I have lots of plans, the CNC projects I have planned right now are enough content for years to come, I really don't how I'm gonna do all of it before it becomes irrelevant 😅 It honestly didn't surprise me your X account got suspended, seeing as you did put some pretty extreme views on the whole Ukraine situation out there... Anyway, say hi to your uncle from me and enjoy your weekend :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Your sense of humor is so devastating ;) I'm really surprised that people read my "extreme" views. I said to myself, those who got fed up with my opinions are going to "mute" me (according to twitter terminology) because that's what I do with boring people... or simply stop following them. Reading unpleasant things requires a bullet-proof calm/indifference. Elon's algorithms help me get rid of that awful addiction. They ousted me ;)😄😆 Let's talk about your projects. They are time and energy consuming for sure. Do you have time to study? I agree with you, there are a lot of constraints in filament production e.g. controlled speed, controlled environment, controlled mechanics that a single individual hardly can meet. It must be really challenging to get a regular 0.75mm filament diameter. Maybe it's not that mandatory for hobbyists... Ciao! I'll kiss my uncle for you🤣😂
If projects like these were offered at middle schools over a span of, maybe 2 years (maybe even more) then you would have students who actually learned something. What an insane project.
Haha, you mean divide them up into teams and give them a couple of years to figure something out? I suspect most would just give up and/or cheat because they can't be arsed...
Not sure the benchy will happen in the next video already :( I realized I have an awful lot of little things like insulating the heated bed and installing limit switches left to do before I can even think about software integration hell...
@@ChronicMechatronic Not to worry. We'll be patient. It's only a matter of time, as your abilities far surpass any obstacles that might stand in your way. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your problem-solving process!
Probably not good for this particular case, but if you ever need to solder to aluminum, try melting some solder on it and then scratching in the puddle with a stainless steel brush. That cuts through the oxide while the liquid metal blocks access to oxygen. Good for epoxy too (although you can use sandpaper in that case).
@@ChronicMechatronicOhh i love that approach. I also like to set up an electroplating bath and sand off the oxide while i plate copper to it. (add magnisum salts- like epsions salt to the mix to aid in removing the oxide layer) It never quite turns out predictable but you always know where and how the solder will stick, and it generally allows for trying again so you usually end up with a decent surface but its increadibly labor intesive to set up and get right, only for medium to large batches
from a price and work hours it is not even remotely worth it with how cheap printers are but god I love this project, I've done a much similar thing for a PCB mill, it's jank AF and I love it :P great job really.
Yeah this obviously only works under the assumption of the time spent on it being worthless (or for enjoyment). If it wasn't for the challenge and the content that comes with it I'm not sure I would've bothered either. Tho to be fair the build process itself would've taken me an order of magnitude less time if I didn't have to document everything on camera.
@@ChronicMechatronic yea i get it, I would like to document stuff but i really can't seem to do it I have no idea how anyone manages to do it, on the bright side this is not just a fun hobby this is actually a good way of honing your skills
@@agasa_workshopit seems like the future of DIY machines is going super high end, to a part of the market that's still painfully expensive or limited.
You can buy bottles of aluminum contact goop at most hardware stores. Normally you squirt a bit of the goop into a screw terminal before sticking stranded aluminum wire in and screwing it down, but brushing a bit onto the underside of the washer should do just as well.
btw I was not wrong. I'm sure your post will go beyond 15K. Good rhythm, pleasant narrative and instructive content are the key. You master them arguably.
Absolutely love your channel mate! This channel is the safe haven for the RepRap mind, taking back to: "gotta build this thing from parts you can find"; "wait? you are alaready using steppers for all axis?" and to "how the hell does this even work..." also, FreeCad's crappy documentation is the cherry on the top of the process :D Stay strong!
I made my heated bed by gluing copper wire to the glass with super glue and then covering everything with 5 minute epoxy. I routed my wire in a zig-zag pattern, think of triangles, rather than rectangles. It works well and was easier to make than foil or any other method. I've been using it for years already with no issues.
Brilliant work! At first I thought it would be a pain not having a separate removable piece of glass, but on second thought this should cool down just as quickly when turned off, and prints on bare glass detach without effort. If I need stronger adhesion I can clip another layer of glass on top of it and use masking tape and glue stick, and then take that off to wrestle with the stuck-on print.
Great idea! I hadn't even thought of using a second glass plate as a removable build plate. Tho I think I'm gonna try G-10, Maker's Muse recommends it as a cheap alternative to those fancy magnetic ones...
Indeed, most prints should be fine.... except PERG... don't be like Joel (3D Printing Nerd) deciding to go straight to PETG, which is known for almost welding itself to glass, on a multi thousand dollar industrial level printer... That thin glass wouldn't stand a chance
Oh thanks, I didn't know that! In fact aside from PLA the other plastic I definitely plan to print is PET (recycling plastic bottles) I guess I'll get some G10 to put on top of the glass for that...
You should use copper Foil ORing between Al and washer, or you can use DIY spot welder using branch PSU and Capacitor to spot weald both. You can also use floor warmer resistive heating element or buy graphite flaxible sheet.
you could have used more resistive element than alluminium like nichrome and so improve efficiency of the heating bed by increasing the voltage and leaving out the resistance of the bad connections(because most of power drop will be on resistive element cause has higher resistance)
Not that much difference between 19.5 and 24 volts. In the video I did before I explored several possible ways of making the heater (including nichrome) and explained why I went with the aluminum foil: ua-cam.com/video/MpD2EWrJkOY/v-deo.html Nichrome for example would be so concentrated of a heat source due to the lower surface area that it burns through Kapton tape quite easily...
I'd say OK safe for the lateral flexing the Z axis does due to primarily being mounted to those floating Y-axis rails. At high print speeds on a tall print I will introduce ringing in X direction... Not a problem for me tho cause after the lead screw upgrade I won't have any high print speeds anymore :)
I adore this series and I am very impressed that you were able to do all this! I did want to ask if you thought it would be a good idea to put making a wooden 3d printer in the title, I only say this as I think it could help search optimization and get more click s on youtube. My only thought behind it is because i clicked on the series because i saw wood and loved the idea! Perhaps if it was in the title maybe more would want to click. Again I love the series and how much work you put into it.
Glad you enjoy it! Good question tho, I have been using an extension for YT search optimization almost from the beginning, but every time I include "wooden 3D printer" in the title it gives a pretty low score. With "Unipolar" I often manage to get a high score even in the overflowing 3D printing niche, which is literally the only reason I've blown the "unipolar" part that much out of proportion. I think the way it works is by checking how many relevant keywords there are and if there's a single word or even character no one else uses I get a high score. Of course, how much that actually helps with showing the thumbnail to more people in the end remains unknown. I don't know how big the market for wooden 3D printers would be since it seems most people who would get into 3D printing don't already have access to a full-fledged wood workshop, which, I just recently realized must be the reason for all those 3D printers being assembled out of 3D printed parts despite the irony of needing a 3D printer to build a 3D printer...
@@ChronicMechatronic That definitely sounds like youtube is way more complexed than I thought. I agree i am not sure how big the market would be for a wooden printer, but I would imagine more people would know what that is verses unipolar ( I wont lie i am guessing it means it goes only one direction, and I only figured that out because i saw you had to make the pcb for it). Ok with youtube in mind what about a click bait title the worlds cheapest full sized 3d printer XD. Also yes i love the irony of that, I actually bought a diy printer that is broken and to fix it i need my other 3d printer to be fixed so I can print the parts for the other broken one (the cycle of life for 3d printers lol) also if it appears im trying to back seat title, I apologize. just wanted to share my ideas incase they may help what so ever :) Also Looking forward to the future videos you make :)
What's the rating of that power supply you have? I'm wondering if the 24V at 5.6A is too much for it to handle, which might explain the dip in performance
It's rated 6.15 amps at 19.5 volts so with 3.18 ohms I should initially be just under max power, the power drop is primarily due to the temperature coefficient of the aluminum driving up resistance to about 4.2 ohms at full temp...
Because thermal paste conducts heat, not electricity 🙄
6 місяців тому
Alucinante, yo usé la cerámica de dos planchas de pelo y un regulador REX-100 y me fabrique un precalentador para desoldar componentes electrónicos,Great job, un saludo.
i bet you could get it hotter by insulating the underside. im blown away bo the fact that this works, and frankly that you even bother lol. great content
I guess so, but that would be cheating 😁 Going to those lengths to save 20 bucks is just so *me*, tho I'm not sure I would do it again for my next 3D printer... Either way it's important simple solutions like this exist, just so people aren't as depended on those big companies!
I made one pen plotter in 2014 using (old matricial printer motor) control by mach3...learning alot. One suggest to video (do robo like Wa-le) best you can...programmable "scratch3.0" Series 01-10 v1.0 and improve
@@Johadart ah yeah someone recently did call me gay - tho I can safely say I'm 100% straight lol (not that it matters IMO) But someone also called me an LGBTQ way before, so... 🤷 I'm just glad they can't say I look like that Spanish porn star anymore!
Did you try to insulate downside? I mean glass is quite bad heat conductor, so it might be worth putting something simple for insulation. Though I don't think it would increase temperature big any big margin. *edit* Oh you actually did it. Nice to see. One thing I immeadiately thought that piece of leather could be interesting to see as insulator. I'd think it might make quite good and light insulator material. After all, like almost all welding gloves are made out of common leather.
I can imagine the pen going wrong because of the tip. It looks like one of those euh.. "stift?" pens.. like the foamy tip type? .. I wonder if you'd use a ballpoint it would go better.. as the foamy one might "drag" more?
It's funny when people comment about things I've already totally forgotten and I have to go back watch the video to see what it's about - like I don't know what I did in my own video... The pen I used on the aluminum was a CD marker, it has a hard plastic tip with a tiny isotoxal star shaped channel down the length of it to wick ink through via capillary action. It usually has little friction on smooth materials, which is why I was a bit perplexed by the lost steps. But it turned out there was just a mechanical fault blocking the Y axis drive. Ball point might be pretty bad because those balls tend to occasionally get stuck, in which case it would get dragged across the aluminum to which it probably would start sticking thanks to its gummy nature, and start tearing holes.
@@ChronicMechatronic haha meh I'm guessing this got suggested to me as I was rewatching my old project where I did similar but far less professional than you haha. Damn I wish I had those skills
Calibrate stepper motors. Make sure all motors are the same. Adjust belts. Even a well built 3D printer is fussy. Best of luck to you fellow builder/ maker. 🤔😁
Hey, just curious. Do you have a Discord or Discord server? I've been following along your series and I've been working on building my own diy 3d printer out of pvc pipe, of course with similar financial constraints and without the wealth of workshop experience you possess. I'll be upfront in that I lack experience in software, electronics, woodworking and so on but I am willing to learn through trial and error and pure willpower (RIP future me). Can we get to chatting?
No I don't have one yet, tho a while ago I was advised to make one and you asking seems to bolster that advice, haha. That said I'll be blunt, I won't be playing personal project advisor for anyone - don't get me wrong, I definitely don't mind an occational question or two, but everything that could be solved with a simple google search is wasting everyone's time honestly. So yeah, pure willpower will be required in any case :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Gotcha :) I can totally understand you not wanting to be a project advisor. Was just wondering if you already had a place to bounce off ideas with other people. Who knows, I might make my own videos to share the results of my experimentation in the future.
@@thesentientneuron6550 just wanted to clarify, since on my pen plotter series I got quite a few people who apparently expected me to do their work for them... :O No, it's only now the channel is starting to feel a bit like a community, and so far I've been happy as a hermit doing my thing, but if a Discord is something folks want I'll make one of course :) I'll let you know when it's ready, but if you have Reddit (or Twitter) you can also DM me there in the meantime :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Thank you for clarifying :). In the end, if I wanted a completed 3d printer I could always just buy a budget model like the Anycubic or Tronxy. But inspired by you and Robert Murray Smith, I've decided to do this because of a small dream, curiosity and a challenge to myself. I will contact you on reddit if I have any questions, but until then, I wish the both of us all the best on our 3d printer journey.
@@thesentientneuron6550 yeah, Robert Murray Smith did some great research with that conductive paint, tho it was ultimately not useful for my purposes since I had a predetermined voltage to work with... Either way good luck with your project!
Ha, finally realise who I believe is your doppleganger: The host from the channel Keystone science. I actually thought you were him for a while as you both do similar type content. The voice is what is exact not the looks. Let me know if I am dead on or out of my mind ;) Love the channel btw. edit: I just checked again after not even doing so before commenting, it's only the earlier clips from the channel. It may not be exact but the voice and mannerisms are very close imo. It is quite an unusual thing you guys have going on also. Kind of like an old school tv host or sales person. It's cool though either way
Hah, that's the most flattering doppelganger I've had so far! Keystone science is way smarter than I am 😂 Never thought to compare it tho, I need to go back to his old videos and check if I can see what you mean
@@ChronicMechatronic Well that went down better than I expected haha. And I dunno. You both do some pretty wild stuff. Being that I am learning Engineering and electronics through a crash course of building my own 3d printer as a first build, using only recycled parts (except for maybe the nozzle), you can be quite impressive in your ideas and designs. And I'm only just past the gantry video in my own build!
@@louispconstant6624 the fact that you compared me with a youtuber I watched and not some random film/porn star I've never heard of before certainly helped 😅 But I went back to Keystone Science's old videos and I get what you mean! We definitely had some of the same vibes going on top of that similar voice. That's the best I can describe it 😂 Also, great! If you're using the same low res 48 steps/revolution steppers I definitely recommend going with lead screws of some sort. I have to install some on mine as well - I already tried printing with it, and while it's amazing how well it works with that 0.1mm resolution it won't do for decent accuracy prints.
I know right? Unfortunately I have no idea what I did different on this one compared to all the others that made it succede! 😂 Maybe it's just the insanity of a fried egg on the thumbnail 🍳🤔
@@ChronicMechatronic All the mystery of audience's response to a post. Let me point out @MichaelFeyrerJr's yt channel, an enthusiastic and pretty helpful guy when it comes to streaming using apps like OBS or PRISM. Most of his posts weigh 3K-views as average. But sometimes it jumped to almost 2M-views without any special reason but likely the topic. That's the mystery of yt and twitter. Those who claim to have some control on their followers - unless they pay a tiers marketing firm - are just liars.
@@joetkeshubyes, I was thinking of putting an even coating of paraffin wax on it when it's hot, letting it cool down, and then when it's heated up again hotpots should show nicely, but I guess a sprinkling of paraffin power should do exactly the same :) Actually I might include that test in the next video, I decided to cover the insulation in a separate, shorter one which should be done soon!
I do have a question though. Do you have the coolest dad ever or how do you have access to all these tools but now I've watched a lot of your videos and have returned with questions l😂l
It's funny you should say so, I must have the worst dad in history actually, just today my mom got a layer for the divorce lol! But I was lucky in as my parents are owing the house and let me set up shop in this room. Yes my dad did pay for quite a few of the handheld power tools, but those are all of the cheap kind and on the other hand I didn't have most of the things kids "need" in school these days. I spent my entire teenagehood getting the workshop to where it is now, and you'll be surprised how cheap it is to have a workshop like this when you've been used to getting the most out of every penny for your entire life. (look at my 3D printer) For the last like 3 years I have been financially responsible for the shop and my hobby related expenses, something I already completely rely on this channel's AD revenue for. So yeah, I'm sure you guys understand when I take on (good) sponsors every so often to be able to upgrade computer/camera equipment and stuff when needed 😉
I'm sorry to hear that! But honestly it makes more sense because beautiful things come from ugly places and you're a beautiful person with a beautiful mind, Keep going forward as I know you will and I can't wait to see what you create in the future 💪 Never be ashamed to get paid for what you do you should be compensated for your time and as a teacher here on UA-cam, you're going to be a very well paid teacher/engineer one day. I already know it
@@landofbosses7844 thank you! I hope I didn't burden you with my personal problems :) But you're right, dark circumstances build character, and as they say: necessity is the mother of invention! So it's definitely also important to suffer a bit for the greater good 😂
Yeah I usually try to put it on a weekend, but this time the video took so long I really didn't have a lot of time left for the Patreon early access and the weekend was needed to finish stuff like thumbnail and description...
@@paulstaf oh yeah, I guess that can happen, it's "Prizefighter" by 'Norma Rockwell'. I didn't intend to steal their theme song tho, I had no idea they even existed 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic No such thing as stealing if it is in the YT library, I was just throwing a shout out to Robot Cantina. :D Good luck on your printer! :)
@@paulstaf I know, tho for channels I really respect personally, like Cody's Lab who's theme song I also found in the youtube library, I won't do it anyway. Although that may be mostly my own preference because after really having enjoyed his videos the song would feel quite out of place in my own video 😆
Coincidentaly this video came out about conductive tape, ua-cam.com/video/0HZ35CyHVxQ/v-deo.html kind of related, maybe this tech can help? My printer (anycubic vyper) uses a simliar approach to heat the bed , wavey (not so square and smyetrical) looks like coppper traces on the underside of i think ceramic before the magnetic build plate. It does 110 which gives me a better appriecaiate for this technology and to be honest is required to print ABS so its sticks, however I think 94 should be good, its close enough i think, especially if you put an enclosure to just to stop drafts it could be enough. On the plus side ABS doesnt need part cooling so its actually prints better quality in the end if you can give it a warm stable environment. But PLA is actually more rigid so the idea of ABS = stronger is not necessarily the case, its more elastic which could be a weakness depending on your application. So PLA isnt inferoir and ABS isnt that amazing.
To properly cook an egg, you need to hit the boiling point of water, 100C! Also I'll bet with some insulation on the bottom of the bed you'd get a lot closer, but maybe not in the stated budget.. Also fun fact, those terrible backlash geared stepper motors you mentioned, were once used in a mini printer that costed over $300 "M3D Micro" looked neat, but just terrible kinematic design.
Well, 94C is close to boiling in my books, I think primarily it was lacking thermal mass or power on the part of the heating element to pull it off. But I'm glad you mention the budget, everyone seems to dismiss it because it's ridiculous, lol. I am currently working on an insulation that ticks those boxes so we'll soon see how much hotter it can get. No way, what a horrible value printer! I know those steppers are now used in super crappy printers called easythreed, but those are only like $100 I believe.
@@ChronicMechatronic I think you're doing some novel things to keep the costs as low as possible, your remelted HDPE v-wheels are something I never would have even thought of as a remotely possible option! One thing that might give you grief later is if your wood moisture-cycles enough, and loses its compliant springiness/gets stuck compressed, maybe that won't happen though?
@@Roobotics yeah, I'm sure learning a lot while doing so, including why 3D printers are built the way they are l, lol. In hindsight I would say HDPE isn't the best material to make those V-rollers out of, I think ABS would be a much better choice. Honestly I can't wait to do the video where I pick the entire machine apart and tell you guys everything that could've been done better, to me that's always the most interesting part! For the wooden gantry I hope my invention of Chronic CarriageSpring does the trick, so far I haven't had moisture-cycling of the wood cause any binding despite the project going on for a long time and getting large differences in ambient humidity between seasons. As for accuracy like squareness of the prints - yeah that will definitely hinge upon humidity 😂
@@ChronicMechatronic I think so long as your ABS version of the vgrooves was also made from homogeneous blobs, it probably would be better suited, HDPE is a softer plastic relatively, high impact resistance, but probably higher friction as a result of deformation to absorb said impacts. I don't think a printed ABS vgroove would work as well as your solid ones though, hmm, maybe if you print them solid and oversized then lathed the ID and OD afterwards? Also in regards to that of you try to print solid, try over-extruding and don't have criss-crossing layers, also smaller layer heights, like 0.1, it's the same idea as printing PETG as clear as possible, it squeezes more air out. Also some possible tricks with ironing on every layer.
@@Roobotics of course it would have to be a solid chunk of material, 3D printing the entire roller will never be accurate enough, but printing a solid slug that can then be machined like you suggest should definitely work. I will have to replace those V-rollers at some point, then I will try it, probably with PLA tho. I don't know how suited PLA is for those kinds of things, but it seems rather stiff and brittle compared to HDPE. Those POM bearings everyone uses are also a lot stiffer than I thought, they look kind of soft which is why I ended up choosing HDPE in the first place, but actually they're rock solid. Haha, had I done my research I would have realized that POM is the same plastic used in plastic gears, then things might've been different 😅
You will not be getting the resolution on the resistance calculations you think you are and definitely not anywhere near the number of digits you are writing down. Uncertainties come into play, mainly based on the resolution of the volt meter but also the tolerance on that resistor which could be as much as 5 % if you didn’t measure it or if you measured it, then it will be the uncertainty of the resistance measurement. It won’t be worth analysing all the uncertainties and finding out how accurate your resistance really is but there is no point writing down all the digits that you do because after a few significant figures they will most likely just be noise, uncertainty or created by the calculation and hence not really mean anything. A good rule of thumb is to round your answer to the number of significant figures you have in your measurements, which is likely only 4 significant figures.
Okay okay I get it, people are unhappy that I wrote down all those decimal places, I thought it was obvious those are irrelevant. The tolerate of the resistor doesn't matter since I measured it and used the measured value for the calculations. If those aren't accurate enough you can still use that method to measure another 220 ohms resistor more accurately and then use that one for the real measurements. It only makes sense to use the numbers with all decimal places for the calculations, otherwise you'll introduce unnecessary inaccuracies by rounding numbers too early. I don't know why y'all are making such a fuss about it, the only point of the endeavor was to get a measurement more accurate than what the multimeter can do. But I guess I didn't make that clear enough.
@@ChronicMechatronic we aren't making a fuss, we are pointing out something that it appeared you didn't know and people that watch the video might not know either. You don't need to be so defensive. You thought it was obvious they were irrelevant yet you write them down as if they mean something. Even if you used this method to measure the 220 ohm resistor first you are still limited by the accuracy of the multimeter and you won't get much more accuracy anyway. Even though you measured the resistor it is still subject to the uncertainty of the multimeter. Yes it makes sense to use all the decimal places for the calculations but you wrote them down as the final answer. It is even better just to leave the values in the calculator where they may have more digits than they display. The whole point is to get a more accurate measurement but you don't talk about how accurate that measurement actually is, you just write down all the decimal places your calculator shows. You are essentially saying, look at how accurate it is, look at all those decimals. Do you not realise it looks like you think you have that level of accuracy? From this comment it just looks like you can't handle comments or people trying to be helpful and pointing out things it appears you don't know or missed or providing additional information that may help others.
@@conorstewart2214 I do exasperate over comments quite easily, depending on how the comment is phrased the line between people just being helpful and people straight up being smartasses is blurry and not necessarily easy to pick up on through text. I totally agree writing down all those decimal places suggests I get this accuracy, and I certainly don't blame anyone for thinking I don't know something when the video makes it look that way. But I already spend insane amounts of time mulling over every sentence I say, and how to convey as much information as possible while still having the video be entertaining, if I justify every single action even more than I already do the videos get even longer and people will just skip it anyway. Jotting down those unnecessary decimal places was just something I did without thinking much about it - and honestly it's just a bit frustrating to have people pick apart a detail like that after all the work that went into the video in order to make it meet standards which are actually ridiculously high considering the size of my channel. Also, people are still responsible for using their own common sense, if someone completely new to STEM were to craw out from under a rock and say: "yo man, imma synthesize a super conductor and measure its resistance with my multimeter like I saw in that video, bro" I'm afraid they'll have bigger problems coming up than their decimal places being off. Someone who really needs a measurement this accurate should be aware of the limitations presented by a technique like this. But I'll add a note in a pinned comment correcting it, okay?
@@ChronicMechatronic My point is you were getting overly defensive, you admitted yourself you could see how it could appear that way. This is the internet, you will have people pick up on things you missed and they will point it out or add additional information. We dont know how much you know or what you think. Any time in life you do any form of presentation people will pick up on what to you might see to be minor details and they will point it out or question you on it. Its better just to approach it neutrally unless the person really does just seem to be being a smartass (even then approaching it neutrally is usually best), most of the time people are just trying to be helpful. I am not saying the video was bad either, it was definitely interesting to watch and I will be following your progress. If people are picking up and pointing out minor details it is probably a sign the video is good, since they arent pointing out massive errors or major problems with your design. Its unlikely you will have anyone trying to make a superconductor after watching this but there is a good chance people could see it and use it to measure homemade heating elements like you did or maybe even wire or motor resistances or similar. You would be surprised by the lack of common sense some people have or even lack of knowledge, and what might be common sense to you might not be to someone just starting out. Also a videos total usefulness isnt just the video itself, the comments and discussions often are useful too. People often look at the comments for extra information or corrections. But anyway, the video is good and it does show you put a lot of work into it.
Method you described isn't as accurate as you show it to be, LM7805 isn't accurate nor stable, DMM isn't as accurate as you estimate, you have tolerance stacking here and if you were to calculate total measurement uncertainty it won't be good. It'd be a bit more reliable to draw high current through the heater and measure current and voltage drop over the resistor. For low resistance measurement you really want Kelvin connection and proper meters or Thompson bridge with decade resistors
Okay maybe not that accurate from a scientific perspective, but it's more than close enough for our purposes. The power supply doesn't even need to be accurate, just stable so the voltage doesn't waver up and down between measurements... Drawing high current through the heating element is problematic too, because it heats up and the temperature coefficient skews the results. I did measure the resistance at full operating temperature and it had risen to around 4.2 ohms - which is why I never had the wattage to go beyond 94°C.
@@ChronicMechatronic one method is thermostatic control of the resistor so eg it gets submerged in a bath of mineral oil which is kept at constant temperature and from temperature and TRC you can calculate resistance at given temperature. Other way is to let it reach the steady state under given conditions (a bit under 100°C in your case) and then assume it's temperature of whole heating element and from this calculate resistance at room temperature. If not technical method (one described, you want voltage drop to be in the region where uncertainties will be the lowest according to voltmeter datasheet, so optimally near the max of the range of given divider), then either expensive measurement gear (which will force you to use Kelvin connector) or you build a Thomson bridge to measure these resistances using decade resistors and precision resistors (0.1% resistors are fairly cheap). For bigger resistances you can also use Wheatstone bridge which is cheaper and easier, but runs 2 wire measurements hence it's automatically inaccurate due to wiring and connection resistances
Already checked out your project, my next printer with use DC motors too! The glass is from the scanner unit of an inkjet printer (HP), hence the weird format and size
The first Gcode I used with the pen was generated using FreeCad, the separate ones for horizontal and vertical cuts were made using the same Inkscape extension I used in my pen plotter series, it allows to set a preferred "drawing" direction which was indispensable for the knife
As a physicist I really hate how you write the resistance measurement with 10 decimal places. You measured everything (R1 and the voltage drops) with at least 4 decimal places, so your calculated result may never be more accurate than 4 decimal places!
Yeah I definitely regret doing that in hindsight, I didn't think anything of it in the moment and just jotted down those numbers because I felt like it, oblivious of the strong reaction it might evoke online. It may have seemed like an irrelevant detail to me, but smarter people than me attach the right amount of importance to it, so I'll definitely think about these things next time 😆
@@ChronicMechatronic haha, no harm done, just my OCD. I just recently found your channel and really like your videos. They are very well made and your skills and creativity are amazing.
27:28 Nah, school only teaches a few useful tidbits at the cost of decades of your life and turning you into a democrat. With the internet you can learn the good stuff in minutes and spend your time actually building things.
Well, in this case the useful tidbit was primary school math (or rather using the calculator) lol. And had I not just halved the trace width but actually gone with something more sophisticated, it would have included Kirchhoff's Current Law to figure out resistances. But yeah, the internet is amazing for learning things WHEN I want, and the WAY I want, it's why I try to make my videos chock-full of all the interesting little problems and their solutions everyone else just can't seem to be bothered including.
Upon popular demand I might need to add: in case it wasn't obvious the method I used here to measure low resistances is only good to 3 or 4 decimal places, even if my writing down all the digits from the calculator might suggest otherwise. Three decimal places is plenty good for hobby purposes, but you're obviously not going to replace a scientific instrument capable of measuring 10 digits with a multimeter.
Hand-made heated beds? Wooden printer frames? I feel like I'm back in 2009!! This is fantastic stuff man - I've gotta go back and watch the rest of the series!
Carving aluminum foil by hand when I can build a complicated machine and program it to doing it for me? My dude, You are the definition of an engineer. Congrats on the bed heater!! I love this channel and you are an inspiration
Thanks! Yeah well, the machine was mostly done already, why not let it build part of itself 😁
I always love using the machine I'm building as soon as it's somewhat usable to make parts to finish that very machine, haha. Did it with the bandsaw and table saw years ago
I like you. You have a real good balance of creativity, intelligence and cleanliness. You actually come up with simple and beautiful solutions that are neither over- nor under-thought.
Thank you! Out of all the comments I get this stood out to me, and I just want to say that it made my day 🤗
this person is very creative
btw, using small knives to cut the aluminum foil after gluing it on the glass bed, is simply put, genius. You know what? You inspired me a lot. I plan to use your method for painting. A sort of stencil... Thank you!
Before watching I just check the length of your post: almost 37 minutes! That will be pretty entertaining and in fact it is. Great job indeed. Thank you Ben! The suspense was horrific. I said to myself, wish he won't give up now... Your prototype meets all your expectations. I just wonder why you want to go beyond 60°C, the temperature I always set to print PLA (frankly I'm not excited by other trendy filaments). I can't wait your next post with some "real printing tests". Keep it up. I wish you'll go beyond 15K views with this. You deserve it so much for your skills and your actual acting talent.
Hi Philibert! As my second longest video ever I new it would be right up your alley 😁
I wanted to tag you on "X" but your account had been suspended...
Main reason I wanted to go to 120° is to have enough head room for other materials since I plan on recycling PET water bottles into filament, but 94° should just barely do as well. As ridiculous as it may sound, my driving factor for building a 3D printer is small parts organizers - Those are incredibly expensive, and if I could print them using recycled PET that would be awesome!!
@@ChronicMechatronic I've been watching tons of youtube videos on PET water bottles filament. I understood that its main issue is... its length (per bottle). Too short, you have to glue them a way or another otherwise you'd be constrained in miniature-world outputs😉. 94°C is beyond decent really. I'm glad you noticed that my twitter account has been suspended permanently just because I said that a mercenary's death is irrelevant, he's paid to kill someone who has nothing to do with himself. Elon musk's algorithms considered that as a call to kill someone... Maybe you have a brand new X follower now.
Yeah, the way everyone does these PET bottle filaments is inherently flawed. Cutting bottles into strips that get fed into a hotend will never work because different parts of the bottle have different wall thicknesses and I'm sure it varies quite dramatically from one bottle to another as well. It needs to be done PROPERLY, which I'm planning to do, lol. I'm going to make a small Precious Plastics inspired shredder to turn bottles into tiny chips which then get fed into a real extrusion machine with an auger to extrude the plastic into a consistent filament. It's going to be significantly more expensive than the 3D printer, but that's just unavoidable when scaling down an entire industrial process.
You see, I have lots of plans, the CNC projects I have planned right now are enough content for years to come, I really don't how I'm gonna do all of it before it becomes irrelevant 😅
It honestly didn't surprise me your X account got suspended, seeing as you did put some pretty extreme views on the whole Ukraine situation out there...
Anyway, say hi to your uncle from me and enjoy your weekend :)
Also, by nothing short of a miracle your wish for 15K views on this video seems to be becoming true! 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic Your sense of humor is so devastating ;) I'm really surprised that people read my "extreme" views. I said to myself, those who got fed up with my opinions are going to "mute" me (according to twitter terminology) because that's what I do with boring people... or simply stop following them. Reading unpleasant things requires a bullet-proof calm/indifference. Elon's algorithms help me get rid of that awful addiction. They ousted me ;)😄😆
Let's talk about your projects. They are time and energy consuming for sure. Do you have time to study? I agree with you, there are a lot of constraints in filament production e.g. controlled speed, controlled environment, controlled mechanics that a single individual hardly can meet. It must be really challenging to get a regular 0.75mm filament diameter. Maybe it's not that mandatory for hobbyists... Ciao! I'll kiss my uncle for you🤣😂
Oh man... Just arrived here ... I'm DEFINITLY going to stay here ... Man that's awesome holly jebus ..
If projects like these were offered at middle schools over a span of, maybe 2 years (maybe even more) then you would have students who actually learned something. What an insane project.
Haha, you mean divide them up into teams and give them a couple of years to figure something out?
I suspect most would just give up and/or cheat because they can't be arsed...
@@ChronicMechatronic yeah, that's true. Thinking about it, a genuine interest it what makes the difference in the first place.
Just woke up and saw the notification, time to eat breakfast while watching
Let's goooo 👍👍
That solution was ingenious . Thoroughly enjoyed that. thanks.
Stellar, as always. You are the personification of the phrase "perseverance always wins". Looking forward to seeing the first Benchy!! :D
Not sure the benchy will happen in the next video already :(
I realized I have an awful lot of little things like insulating the heated bed and installing limit switches left to do before I can even think about software integration hell...
@@ChronicMechatronic Not to worry. We'll be patient. It's only a matter of time, as your abilities far surpass any obstacles that might stand in your way. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your problem-solving process!
Dude this video is Perfect! Good Job with the DIY Heated Bed!
your Eyebrow is amazing, iconic. you deserve a thumb up.
First time I heard that, thanks 😅
Probably not good for this particular case, but if you ever need to solder to aluminum, try melting some solder on it and then scratching in the puddle with a stainless steel brush. That cuts through the oxide while the liquid metal blocks access to oxygen. Good for epoxy too (although you can use sandpaper in that case).
I read a hackaday article about aluminum soldering, they sanded and subsequently soldered the surface under a protective layer of mineral oil
@@ChronicMechatronicOhh i love that approach.
I also like to set up an electroplating bath and sand off the oxide while i plate copper to it. (add magnisum salts- like epsions salt to the mix to aid in removing the oxide layer)
It never quite turns out predictable but you always know where and how the solder will stick, and it generally allows for trying again so you usually end up with a decent surface
but its increadibly labor intesive to set up and get right, only for medium to large batches
from a price and work hours it is not even remotely worth it with how cheap printers are but god I love this project, I've done a much similar thing for a PCB mill, it's jank AF and I love it :P great job really.
Yeah this obviously only works under the assumption of the time spent on it being worthless (or for enjoyment). If it wasn't for the challenge and the content that comes with it I'm not sure I would've bothered either. Tho to be fair the build process itself would've taken me an order of magnitude less time if I didn't have to document everything on camera.
@@ChronicMechatronic yea i get it, I would like to document stuff but i really can't seem to do it I have no idea how anyone manages to do it, on the bright side this is not just a fun hobby this is actually a good way of honing your skills
@@agasa_workshopit seems like the future of DIY machines is going super high end, to a part of the market that's still painfully expensive or limited.
You can buy bottles of aluminum contact goop at most hardware stores. Normally you squirt a bit of the goop into a screw terminal before sticking stranded aluminum wire in and screwing it down, but brushing a bit onto the underside of the washer should do just as well.
btw I was not wrong. I'm sure your post will go beyond 15K. Good rhythm, pleasant narrative and instructive content are the key. You master them arguably.
Absolutely love your channel mate! This channel is the safe haven for the RepRap mind, taking back to: "gotta build this thing from parts you can find"; "wait? you are alaready using steppers for all axis?" and to "how the hell does this even work..." also, FreeCad's crappy documentation is the cherry on the top of the process :D Stay strong!
Thanks! 🤗
I made my heated bed by gluing copper wire to the glass with super glue and then covering everything with 5 minute epoxy. I routed my wire in a zig-zag pattern, think of triangles, rather than rectangles.
It works well and was easier to make than foil or any other method. I've been using it for years already with no issues.
Please post a link to a photo.
Brilliant work! At first I thought it would be a pain not having a separate removable piece of glass, but on second thought this should cool down just as quickly when turned off, and prints on bare glass detach without effort. If I need stronger adhesion I can clip another layer of glass on top of it and use masking tape and glue stick, and then take that off to wrestle with the stuck-on print.
Great idea! I hadn't even thought of using a second glass plate as a removable build plate. Tho I think I'm gonna try G-10, Maker's Muse recommends it as a cheap alternative to those fancy magnetic ones...
Indeed, most prints should be fine.... except PERG... don't be like Joel (3D Printing Nerd) deciding to go straight to PETG, which is known for almost welding itself to glass, on a multi thousand dollar industrial level printer... That thin glass wouldn't stand a chance
Oh thanks, I didn't know that! In fact aside from PLA the other plastic I definitely plan to print is PET (recycling plastic bottles)
I guess I'll get some G10 to put on top of the glass for that...
Very impressive. Well done.
what a wonderful project. love it. you are really talented.
Nichrome wire is relatively cheap, and if you get a small assortment you have it for making foam cutters and similar tools.
Very underrated channel, keep the vídeos coming!
Definitely will!
Btw flip the bed upside down when your trimming the edges. It makes it cleaner and faster!
Amazing, good work, keep it up, I love watching engineering projects
Enjoy it. I always wanted to know how to do it and your video shows it. My printer is also made of wood.
Nicee work brother 👍
The use of bltouch and accelerometer will make it not necessary to have perfect structures?
I don't know, I will only be using Marlin for the time being
You should use copper Foil ORing between Al and washer, or you can use DIY spot welder using branch PSU and Capacitor to spot weald both.
You can also use floor warmer resistive heating element or buy graphite flaxible sheet.
Morrissey print maker, love this, epic video
You sir have earned my subscription! 🫡 Can't wait for the next part in the series!
you could have used more resistive element than alluminium like nichrome and so improve efficiency of the heating bed by increasing the voltage and leaving out the resistance of the bad connections(because most of power drop will be on resistive element cause has higher resistance)
Not that much difference between 19.5 and 24 volts. In the video I did before I explored several possible ways of making the heater (including nichrome) and explained why I went with the aluminum foil: ua-cam.com/video/MpD2EWrJkOY/v-deo.html
Nichrome for example would be so concentrated of a heat source due to the lower surface area that it burns through Kapton tape quite easily...
Conductive ink or paint is a reasonable consideration, applies with a basic stencil.
This is my first tine here! Wow!!!!! You are amazing!!! This is cool please keep going and giving lots of detail and information!
I'm glad you like my hairsplitting!! 😅😅
Wow. What a impressive video. Awesome job
Woah interesting- how's the rigidity with wood??
I'd say OK safe for the lateral flexing the Z axis does due to primarily being mounted to those floating Y-axis rails. At high print speeds on a tall print I will introduce ringing in X direction... Not a problem for me tho cause after the lead screw upgrade I won't have any high print speeds anymore :)
Nice work
Thanks :)
I adore this series and I am very impressed that you were able to do all this! I did want to ask if you thought it would be a good idea to put making a wooden 3d printer in the title, I only say this as I think it could help search optimization and get more click s on youtube. My only thought behind it is because i clicked on the series because i saw wood and loved the idea! Perhaps if it was in the title maybe more would want to click. Again I love the series and how much work you put into it.
Glad you enjoy it! Good question tho, I have been using an extension for YT search optimization almost from the beginning, but every time I include "wooden 3D printer" in the title it gives a pretty low score. With "Unipolar" I often manage to get a high score even in the overflowing 3D printing niche, which is literally the only reason I've blown the "unipolar" part that much out of proportion. I think the way it works is by checking how many relevant keywords there are and if there's a single word or even character no one else uses I get a high score. Of course, how much that actually helps with showing the thumbnail to more people in the end remains unknown. I don't know how big the market for wooden 3D printers would be since it seems most people who would get into 3D printing don't already have access to a full-fledged wood workshop, which, I just recently realized must be the reason for all those 3D printers being assembled out of 3D printed parts despite the irony of needing a 3D printer to build a 3D printer...
@@ChronicMechatronic That definitely sounds like youtube is way more complexed than I thought. I agree i am not sure how big the market would be for a wooden printer, but I would imagine more people would know what that is verses unipolar ( I wont lie i am guessing it means it goes only one direction, and I only figured that out because i saw you had to make the pcb for it). Ok with youtube in mind what about a click bait title the worlds cheapest full sized 3d printer XD. Also yes i love the irony of that, I actually bought a diy printer that is broken and to fix it i need my other 3d printer to be fixed so I can print the parts for the other broken one (the cycle of life for 3d printers lol) also if it appears im trying to back seat title, I apologize. just wanted to share my ideas incase they may help what so ever :) Also Looking forward to the future videos you make :)
You can connect the power supply to the other two screws.
Polish the bottom of the washers, they aren't that flat. Put a copper or Alu washer under the steel one and it'll deform to shape.
Hard work's! try and again until ready...Congratulation!!!
Brilliant idea! Im stealing it 😅
alminox jointing paste should do the trick! after applying scratch the surface to remove oxide coating!
What's the rating of that power supply you have? I'm wondering if the 24V at 5.6A is too much for it to handle, which might explain the dip in performance
It's rated 6.15 amps at 19.5 volts so with 3.18 ohms I should initially be just under max power, the power drop is primarily due to the temperature coefficient of the aluminum driving up resistance to about 4.2 ohms at full temp...
Wow, great video
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Great stuff
amazing video im trying it right now but... I have a question How much voltage did you give it to get the heat at that tempreture?
19.5 volts, I did a whole video about the math behind it: ua-cam.com/video/MpD2EWrJkOY/v-deo.html
@@ChronicMechatronic Thanks a lot You replied to my question very Quick, il check out the video.
Why don't you use thermal paste on the washers to cover the air gap between the washer and the foil?
Because thermal paste conducts heat, not electricity 🙄
Alucinante, yo usé la cerámica de dos planchas de pelo y un regulador REX-100 y me fabrique un precalentador para desoldar componentes electrónicos,Great job, un saludo.
i bet you could get it hotter by insulating the underside. im blown away bo the fact that this works, and frankly that you even bother lol. great content
I guess so, but that would be cheating 😁
Going to those lengths to save 20 bucks is just so *me*, tho I'm not sure I would do it again for my next 3D printer... Either way it's important simple solutions like this exist, just so people aren't as depended on those big companies!
Yeah, those self-adhesive 3D printer bed insulation things would be great for this since it would also eliminate the need for the kapton.
@@dekutree64 good point. But we'll see if it gets any hotter, I'm insulating it right now
@@ChronicMechatronic cant wait to see that thing print something
@@thorgraum1462 me too, I need tons of screw organizers 😂
I made one pen plotter in 2014 using (old matricial printer motor) control by mach3...learning alot.
One suggest to video (do robo like Wa-le) best you can...programmable "scratch3.0"
Series 01-10 v1.0 and improve
I'm so sad you're still so under-viewed for all your hard work.
so why did u not try a 1mm copper sheet instead of the alliminum
Because it's way more expensive and I would have needed a significantly longer track to make up for the lower resistance
@@ChronicMechatronic no its not thast expansive even here in the uk, but that was a fantastic ide anyway
Very cool
I'm more impressed that the printer is made of wood.
Hi Benjamin or do you prefer Ben? Great video, keep up the great work mate, cheers mate. 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Joe from Australia 🤙🏼🇦🇺
Thanks Joe! I'm fine with either :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Thanks Ben, keep up the great content, like the hair do, many people would call you gay.. ps I’m not one of them.. 🤙🏼🇦🇺
@@Johadart ah yeah someone recently did call me gay - tho I can safely say I'm 100% straight lol (not that it matters IMO)
But someone also called me an LGBTQ way before, so... 🤷
I'm just glad they can't say I look like that Spanish porn star anymore!
Great video!
3D pen plotter printer thingy: you could just call it "the bed slinger" or "the cartesian"
Did you try to insulate downside? I mean glass is quite bad heat conductor, so it might be worth putting something simple for insulation. Though I don't think it would increase temperature big any big margin.
*edit*
Oh you actually did it. Nice to see. One thing I immeadiately thought that piece of leather could be interesting to see as insulator. I'd think it might make quite good and light insulator material. After all, like almost all welding gloves are made out of common leather.
Leather sure would be a good replacement for the felt
I may have gone a bit far with the clickbait thumbnail on this one, lol...
You don't need to need to clickbait me I would binge your channel
Can't even imagine how excited you must have felt getting this done
@@landofbosses7844 incredibly relieved that the resistance turned out all right and I didn't have to start over! 😅😅😅
@@lazer1036 I know, you guys are the only viewers I really care about :) But I still need to play nice with the algorithm to attract new audiences...
@@ChronicMechatronic :) thanks bro
Nice job, Ben.
Thanks! Y'all got a mention at the end 😅
I can imagine the pen going wrong because of the tip. It looks like one of those euh.. "stift?" pens.. like the foamy tip type? .. I wonder if you'd use a ballpoint it would go better.. as the foamy one might "drag" more?
It's funny when people comment about things I've already totally forgotten and I have to go back watch the video to see what it's about - like I don't know what I did in my own video...
The pen I used on the aluminum was a CD marker, it has a hard plastic tip with a tiny isotoxal star shaped channel down the length of it to wick ink through via capillary action. It usually has little friction on smooth materials, which is why I was a bit perplexed by the lost steps. But it turned out there was just a mechanical fault blocking the Y axis drive. Ball point might be pretty bad because those balls tend to occasionally get stuck, in which case it would get dragged across the aluminum to which it probably would start sticking thanks to its gummy nature, and start tearing holes.
@@ChronicMechatronic haha meh I'm guessing this got suggested to me as I was rewatching my old project where I did similar but far less professional than you haha.
Damn I wish I had those skills
Calibrate stepper motors.
Make sure all motors are the same.
Adjust belts.
Even a well built 3D printer is fussy.
Best of luck to you fellow builder/ maker. 🤔😁
Hey, just curious. Do you have a Discord or Discord server? I've been following along your series and I've been working on building my own diy 3d printer out of pvc pipe, of course with similar financial constraints and without the wealth of workshop experience you possess. I'll be upfront in that I lack experience in software, electronics, woodworking and so on but I am willing to learn through trial and error and pure willpower (RIP future me). Can we get to chatting?
No I don't have one yet, tho a while ago I was advised to make one and you asking seems to bolster that advice, haha. That said I'll be blunt, I won't be playing personal project advisor for anyone - don't get me wrong, I definitely don't mind an occational question or two, but everything that could be solved with a simple google search is wasting everyone's time honestly.
So yeah, pure willpower will be required in any case :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Gotcha :) I can totally understand you not wanting to be a project advisor. Was just wondering if you already had a place to bounce off ideas with other people. Who knows, I might make my own videos to share the results of my experimentation in the future.
@@thesentientneuron6550 just wanted to clarify, since on my pen plotter series I got quite a few people who apparently expected me to do their work for them... :O
No, it's only now the channel is starting to feel a bit like a community, and so far I've been happy as a hermit doing my thing, but if a Discord is something folks want I'll make one of course :)
I'll let you know when it's ready, but if you have Reddit (or Twitter) you can also DM me there in the meantime :)
@@ChronicMechatronic Thank you for clarifying :). In the end, if I wanted a completed 3d printer I could always just buy a budget model like the Anycubic or Tronxy. But inspired by you and Robert Murray Smith, I've decided to do this because of a small dream, curiosity and a challenge to myself. I will contact you on reddit if I have any questions, but until then, I wish the both of us all the best on our 3d printer journey.
@@thesentientneuron6550 yeah, Robert Murray Smith did some great research with that conductive paint, tho it was ultimately not useful for my purposes since I had a predetermined voltage to work with... Either way good luck with your project!
+sub I made something similar, but it was with copper adhesive tape for stainedglass windows, greetings from argentina
Ha, finally realise who I believe is your doppleganger:
The host from the channel Keystone science.
I actually thought you were him for a while as you both do similar type content.
The voice is what is exact not the looks. Let me know if I am dead on or out of my mind ;)
Love the channel btw.
edit: I just checked again after not even doing so before commenting, it's only the earlier clips from the channel. It may not be exact but the voice and mannerisms are very close imo.
It is quite an unusual thing you guys have going on also. Kind of like an old school tv host or sales person. It's cool though either way
Hah, that's the most flattering doppelganger I've had so far! Keystone science is way smarter than I am 😂
Never thought to compare it tho, I need to go back to his old videos and check if I can see what you mean
@@ChronicMechatronic Well that went down better than I expected haha.
And I dunno. You both do some pretty wild stuff.
Being that I am learning Engineering and electronics through a crash course of building my own 3d printer as a first build, using only recycled parts (except for maybe the nozzle), you can be quite impressive in your ideas and designs. And I'm only just past the gantry video in my own build!
@@louispconstant6624 the fact that you compared me with a youtuber I watched and not some random film/porn star I've never heard of before certainly helped 😅
But I went back to Keystone Science's old videos and I get what you mean! We definitely had some of the same vibes going on top of that similar voice. That's the best I can describe it 😂
Also, great! If you're using the same low res 48 steps/revolution steppers I definitely recommend going with lead screws of some sort. I have to install some on mine as well - I already tried printing with it, and while it's amazing how well it works with that 0.1mm resolution it won't do for decent accuracy prints.
15K views! Congrats! and an honorable 658 thumb up
I know right? Unfortunately I have no idea what I did different on this one compared to all the others that made it succede! 😂 Maybe it's just the insanity of a fried egg on the thumbnail 🍳🤔
@@ChronicMechatronic All the mystery of audience's response to a post. Let me point out @MichaelFeyrerJr's yt channel, an enthusiastic and pretty helpful guy when it comes to streaming using apps like OBS or PRISM. Most of his posts weigh 3K-views as average. But sometimes it jumped to almost 2M-views without any special reason but likely the topic. That's the mystery of yt and twitter. Those who claim to have some control on their followers - unless they pay a tiers marketing firm - are just liars.
you can literally just draw the copper traces with a black marker and then put the board in your acid bath.
Great job ))
egg + hair dryer builder )))
I felt the anxiety when it did the final cut of the aluminium
How you expecting to fry an egg containing salted water under 100 C 😅 it showed be atleat higher then 100C atlest.
a thermal camera could help visualize heat distribution of your heat bed...
Maybe any company wanna sponsor?? 🤔😉😆
I do also have an idea for how it could be done without thermal camera however :)
@@ChronicMechatronic using paraffin powder?
@@joetkeshubyes, I was thinking of putting an even coating of paraffin wax on it when it's hot, letting it cool down, and then when it's heated up again hotpots should show nicely, but I guess a sprinkling of paraffin power should do exactly the same :)
Actually I might include that test in the next video, I decided to cover the insulation in a separate, shorter one which should be done soon!
@@ChronicMechatronic Can't wait ;)
I do have a question though. Do you have the coolest dad ever or how do you have access to all these tools but now I've watched a lot of your videos and have returned with questions l😂l
It's funny you should say so, I must have the worst dad in history actually, just today my mom got a layer for the divorce lol!
But I was lucky in as my parents are owing the house and let me set up shop in this room. Yes my dad did pay for quite a few of the handheld power tools, but those are all of the cheap kind and on the other hand I didn't have most of the things kids "need" in school these days.
I spent my entire teenagehood getting the workshop to where it is now, and you'll be surprised how cheap it is to have a workshop like this when you've been used to getting the most out of every penny for your entire life. (look at my 3D printer) For the last like 3 years I have been financially responsible for the shop and my hobby related expenses, something I already completely rely on this channel's AD revenue for. So yeah, I'm sure you guys understand when I take on (good) sponsors every so often to be able to upgrade computer/camera equipment and stuff when needed 😉
I'm sorry to hear that! But honestly it makes more sense because beautiful things come from ugly places and you're a beautiful person with a beautiful mind, Keep going forward as I know you will and I can't wait to see what you create in the future 💪
Never be ashamed to get paid for what you do you should be compensated for your time and as a teacher here on UA-cam, you're going to be a very well paid teacher/engineer one day. I already know it
@@landofbosses7844 thank you! I hope I didn't burden you with my personal problems :)
But you're right, dark circumstances build character, and as they say: necessity is the mother of invention! So it's definitely also important to suffer a bit for the greater good 😂
Well it's quite uncommon time for your uploading
Yeah I usually try to put it on a weekend, but this time the video took so long I really didn't have a lot of time left for the Patreon early access and the weekend was needed to finish stuff like thumbnail and description...
Robot Cantina background music! :D
Do they use the same tracks?
Unsurprising, it's all in the youtube music library :)
@5:38 that is the tune that Robot Cantina uses as their theme music at the end of their videos. :D
@@paulstaf oh yeah, I guess that can happen, it's "Prizefighter" by 'Norma Rockwell'.
I didn't intend to steal their theme song tho, I had no idea they even existed 😅
@@ChronicMechatronic No such thing as stealing if it is in the YT library, I was just throwing a shout out to Robot Cantina. :D Good luck on your printer! :)
@@paulstaf I know, tho for channels I really respect personally, like Cody's Lab who's theme song I also found in the youtube library, I won't do it anyway. Although that may be mostly my own preference because after really having enjoyed his videos the song would feel quite out of place in my own video 😆
Why don't u use copper tape...
Doesn't go around the corners needed to get this square wave pattern
Coincidentaly this video came out about conductive tape, ua-cam.com/video/0HZ35CyHVxQ/v-deo.html kind of related, maybe this tech can help? My printer (anycubic vyper) uses a simliar approach to heat the bed , wavey (not so square and smyetrical) looks like coppper traces on the underside of i think ceramic before the magnetic build plate. It does 110 which gives me a better appriecaiate for this technology and to be honest is required to print ABS so its sticks, however I think 94 should be good, its close enough i think, especially if you put an enclosure to just to stop drafts it could be enough. On the plus side ABS doesnt need part cooling so its actually prints better quality in the end if you can give it a warm stable environment. But PLA is actually more rigid so the idea of ABS = stronger is not necessarily the case, its more elastic which could be a weakness depending on your application. So PLA isnt inferoir and ABS isnt that amazing.
Interesting video, I usually don't watch Breaking Taps but I was wondering how that tape works 😅
it did seem like it was rpessign too hard, the amoutn fo extra down travel was oof
vidrio+colbon < --- > pegado en frio
To properly cook an egg, you need to hit the boiling point of water, 100C! Also I'll bet with some insulation on the bottom of the bed you'd get a lot closer, but maybe not in the stated budget.. Also fun fact, those terrible backlash geared stepper motors you mentioned, were once used in a mini printer that costed over $300 "M3D Micro" looked neat, but just terrible kinematic design.
Well, 94C is close to boiling in my books, I think primarily it was lacking thermal mass or power on the part of the heating element to pull it off.
But I'm glad you mention the budget, everyone seems to dismiss it because it's ridiculous, lol. I am currently working on an insulation that ticks those boxes so we'll soon see how much hotter it can get.
No way, what a horrible value printer! I know those steppers are now used in super crappy printers called easythreed, but those are only like $100 I believe.
@@ChronicMechatronic I think you're doing some novel things to keep the costs as low as possible, your remelted HDPE v-wheels are something I never would have even thought of as a remotely possible option! One thing that might give you grief later is if your wood moisture-cycles enough, and loses its compliant springiness/gets stuck compressed, maybe that won't happen though?
@@Roobotics yeah, I'm sure learning a lot while doing so, including why 3D printers are built the way they are l, lol. In hindsight I would say HDPE isn't the best material to make those V-rollers out of, I think ABS would be a much better choice. Honestly I can't wait to do the video where I pick the entire machine apart and tell you guys everything that could've been done better, to me that's always the most interesting part!
For the wooden gantry I hope my invention of Chronic CarriageSpring does the trick, so far I haven't had moisture-cycling of the wood cause any binding despite the project going on for a long time and getting large differences in ambient humidity between seasons. As for accuracy like squareness of the prints - yeah that will definitely hinge upon humidity 😂
@@ChronicMechatronic I think so long as your ABS version of the vgrooves was also made from homogeneous blobs, it probably would be better suited, HDPE is a softer plastic relatively, high impact resistance, but probably higher friction as a result of deformation to absorb said impacts. I don't think a printed ABS vgroove would work as well as your solid ones though, hmm, maybe if you print them solid and oversized then lathed the ID and OD afterwards? Also in regards to that of you try to print solid, try over-extruding and don't have criss-crossing layers, also smaller layer heights, like 0.1, it's the same idea as printing PETG as clear as possible, it squeezes more air out. Also some possible tricks with ironing on every layer.
@@Roobotics of course it would have to be a solid chunk of material, 3D printing the entire roller will never be accurate enough, but printing a solid slug that can then be machined like you suggest should definitely work. I will have to replace those V-rollers at some point, then I will try it, probably with PLA tho. I don't know how suited PLA is for those kinds of things, but it seems rather stiff and brittle compared to HDPE. Those POM bearings everyone uses are also a lot stiffer than I thought, they look kind of soft which is why I ended up choosing HDPE in the first place, but actually they're rock solid.
Haha, had I done my research I would have realized that POM is the same plastic used in plastic gears, then things might've been different 😅
You will not be getting the resolution on the resistance calculations you think you are and definitely not anywhere near the number of digits you are writing down. Uncertainties come into play, mainly based on the resolution of the volt meter but also the tolerance on that resistor which could be as much as 5 % if you didn’t measure it or if you measured it, then it will be the uncertainty of the resistance measurement. It won’t be worth analysing all the uncertainties and finding out how accurate your resistance really is but there is no point writing down all the digits that you do because after a few significant figures they will most likely just be noise, uncertainty or created by the calculation and hence not really mean anything. A good rule of thumb is to round your answer to the number of significant figures you have in your measurements, which is likely only 4 significant figures.
Okay okay I get it, people are unhappy that I wrote down all those decimal places, I thought it was obvious those are irrelevant.
The tolerate of the resistor doesn't matter since I measured it and used the measured value for the calculations. If those aren't accurate enough you can still use that method to measure another 220 ohms resistor more accurately and then use that one for the real measurements. It only makes sense to use the numbers with all decimal places for the calculations, otherwise you'll introduce unnecessary inaccuracies by rounding numbers too early.
I don't know why y'all are making such a fuss about it, the only point of the endeavor was to get a measurement more accurate than what the multimeter can do. But I guess I didn't make that clear enough.
@@ChronicMechatronic we aren't making a fuss, we are pointing out something that it appeared you didn't know and people that watch the video might not know either. You don't need to be so defensive.
You thought it was obvious they were irrelevant yet you write them down as if they mean something.
Even if you used this method to measure the 220 ohm resistor first you are still limited by the accuracy of the multimeter and you won't get much more accuracy anyway. Even though you measured the resistor it is still subject to the uncertainty of the multimeter.
Yes it makes sense to use all the decimal places for the calculations but you wrote them down as the final answer. It is even better just to leave the values in the calculator where they may have more digits than they display.
The whole point is to get a more accurate measurement but you don't talk about how accurate that measurement actually is, you just write down all the decimal places your calculator shows. You are essentially saying, look at how accurate it is, look at all those decimals. Do you not realise it looks like you think you have that level of accuracy?
From this comment it just looks like you can't handle comments or people trying to be helpful and pointing out things it appears you don't know or missed or providing additional information that may help others.
@@conorstewart2214 I do exasperate over comments quite easily, depending on how the comment is phrased the line between people just being helpful and people straight up being smartasses is blurry and not necessarily easy to pick up on through text.
I totally agree writing down all those decimal places suggests I get this accuracy, and I certainly don't blame anyone for thinking I don't know something when the video makes it look that way.
But I already spend insane amounts of time mulling over every sentence I say, and how to convey as much information as possible while still having the video be entertaining, if I justify every single action even more than I already do the videos get even longer and people will just skip it anyway.
Jotting down those unnecessary decimal places was just something I did without thinking much about it - and honestly it's just a bit frustrating to have people pick apart a detail like that after all the work that went into the video in order to make it meet standards which are actually ridiculously high considering the size of my channel.
Also, people are still responsible for using their own common sense, if someone completely new to STEM were to craw out from under a rock and say: "yo man, imma synthesize a super conductor and measure its resistance with my multimeter like I saw in that video, bro" I'm afraid they'll have bigger problems coming up than their decimal places being off. Someone who really needs a measurement this accurate should be aware of the limitations presented by a technique like this.
But I'll add a note in a pinned comment correcting it, okay?
@@ChronicMechatronic My point is you were getting overly defensive, you admitted yourself you could see how it could appear that way.
This is the internet, you will have people pick up on things you missed and they will point it out or add additional information. We dont know how much you know or what you think. Any time in life you do any form of presentation people will pick up on what to you might see to be minor details and they will point it out or question you on it. Its better just to approach it neutrally unless the person really does just seem to be being a smartass (even then approaching it neutrally is usually best), most of the time people are just trying to be helpful.
I am not saying the video was bad either, it was definitely interesting to watch and I will be following your progress. If people are picking up and pointing out minor details it is probably a sign the video is good, since they arent pointing out massive errors or major problems with your design.
Its unlikely you will have anyone trying to make a superconductor after watching this but there is a good chance people could see it and use it to measure homemade heating elements like you did or maybe even wire or motor resistances or similar. You would be surprised by the lack of common sense some people have or even lack of knowledge, and what might be common sense to you might not be to someone just starting out.
Also a videos total usefulness isnt just the video itself, the comments and discussions often are useful too. People often look at the comments for extra information or corrections.
But anyway, the video is good and it does show you put a lot of work into it.
Method you described isn't as accurate as you show it to be, LM7805 isn't accurate nor stable, DMM isn't as accurate as you estimate, you have tolerance stacking here and if you were to calculate total measurement uncertainty it won't be good. It'd be a bit more reliable to draw high current through the heater and measure current and voltage drop over the resistor. For low resistance measurement you really want Kelvin connection and proper meters or Thompson bridge with decade resistors
Okay maybe not that accurate from a scientific perspective, but it's more than close enough for our purposes. The power supply doesn't even need to be accurate, just stable so the voltage doesn't waver up and down between measurements...
Drawing high current through the heating element is problematic too, because it heats up and the temperature coefficient skews the results. I did measure the resistance at full operating temperature and it had risen to around 4.2 ohms - which is why I never had the wattage to go beyond 94°C.
@@ChronicMechatronic one method is thermostatic control of the resistor so eg it gets submerged in a bath of mineral oil which is kept at constant temperature and from temperature and TRC you can calculate resistance at given temperature. Other way is to let it reach the steady state under given conditions (a bit under 100°C in your case) and then assume it's temperature of whole heating element and from this calculate resistance at room temperature. If not technical method (one described, you want voltage drop to be in the region where uncertainties will be the lowest according to voltmeter datasheet, so optimally near the max of the range of given divider), then either expensive measurement gear (which will force you to use Kelvin connector) or you build a Thomson bridge to measure these resistances using decade resistors and precision resistors (0.1% resistors are fairly cheap). For bigger resistances you can also use Wheatstone bridge which is cheaper and easier, but runs 2 wire measurements hence it's automatically inaccurate due to wiring and connection resistances
POV you have a 160+ IQ
Genio
Very nice! I made a 3dp axis from inkjet printer mechanism: no stepper, just a dc motor with feedback. On my channel. You may like it.
How did you drill holes in that glass? And what is the glass from? I have to watch more videos of yours!
Generate your gcode with freecad for the cutting? What path operation?
I was looking at your videos and saw that I already watched the 3d printer ones. Hope you post more about it. Great content.
Already checked out your project, my next printer with use DC motors too!
The glass is from the scanner unit of an inkjet printer (HP), hence the weird format and size
The first Gcode I used with the pen was generated using FreeCad, the separate ones for horizontal and vertical cuts were made using the same Inkscape extension I used in my pen plotter series, it allows to set a preferred "drawing" direction which was indispensable for the knife
Use copper and insulation your losing more than what your gaining.
Nice 'retro-3D-printing'
ok
As a physicist I really hate how you write the resistance measurement with 10 decimal places. You measured everything (R1 and the voltage drops) with at least 4 decimal places, so your calculated result may never be more accurate than 4 decimal places!
Yeah I definitely regret doing that in hindsight, I didn't think anything of it in the moment and just jotted down those numbers because I felt like it, oblivious of the strong reaction it might evoke online. It may have seemed like an irrelevant detail to me, but smarter people than me attach the right amount of importance to it, so I'll definitely think about these things next time 😆
@@ChronicMechatronic haha, no harm done, just my OCD. I just recently found your channel and really like your videos. They are very well made and your skills and creativity are amazing.
Yo you got that bed as hot as you are
Okay sorry I had to do it😂
Lol, thanks whichever way round that was meant 😂
Your Making a DIY 3D Printer made from Recycled Materials and No More than 50 Dollars
27:28 Nah, school only teaches a few useful tidbits at the cost of decades of your life and turning you into a democrat. With the internet you can learn the good stuff in minutes and spend your time actually building things.
Well, in this case the useful tidbit was primary school math (or rather using the calculator) lol. And had I not just halved the trace width but actually gone with something more sophisticated, it would have included Kirchhoff's Current Law to figure out resistances.
But yeah, the internet is amazing for learning things WHEN I want, and the WAY I want, it's why I try to make my videos chock-full of all the interesting little problems and their solutions everyone else just can't seem to be bothered including.
Pi Ω
yes waste of time machine sucks