3D Printing ABS on the CR10? Building a 3D Printer Enclosure with Punished Props
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Bill from Punished Props stopped by to help build an enclosure for the Creality CR10 3D Printer. We wanted to print a large ABS print, but with the open design, we first needed an enclosure to keep the heat in and the ambient temperature consistent.
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I know that this was from 3 years ago but just for anyone looking to make an enclosure, you would want the reflective(Silver) side facing in to reflect the heat back in. When you insulate, and I have used this same foam in my basement, you want the reflective(Silver) side in to reflect the heat back into your living space. Just an FYI.
How much difference would it actually make for this?
@@jm329 alot
@@spashiron How much?
@@jm329 With an inch of polystyrene and not a huge temperature gradient such as this, it wouldnt really matter much. If the application were critical, it could really be huge. The major problem is the OCD element of it. That would REALLY bother me.
Can't believe I just spent a half hour watching someone make a foam box.
Some observations:
Shiny side in
Test the fit BEFORE adding fixtures.
Top vent useless if there is a huge hole in the side
Superglue melts Styrofoam
Fern Moore but, I mean, at least they made it entertaining!
Really bothered me that the shiny side wasn't in.
@Bondy, If they only use it with the cr10, not much of a fire risk since the stock bed only plays at heating up. :P
As it is not as obvious as I thought it was, DISCLAIMER TO ALL. My previous comment was sarcastic humor aimed at the cr10, and not meant to be taken seriously.
I am glad others were annoyed by them not putting the shiny side in.
Hey Joel.... why is your insulation shiny side out?
Bugged me too. I would call that a miss.
Yeah, your box totally negates the radiant heat reflection of the mylar. A decent portion of the heat put out by your CR10 is being absorbed by the foam. It makes a difference which side is out when using it to insulate your house, so I imagine it would make a difference when super heating Chinese electronics.
the heat is probably 90% convection so "its so shiny" is fine by me. Also, it stops the screws pulling through to foam.
The asymmetric placement of the hinges triggered my OCD too.
And the magnet could have been hidden behind the knob.
The more sensitive electronics was kept outside the enclosure.
You are right about the mylar but I feel like the giant slot in the side is a much bigger problem than the orientation of the mylar.
The opening cut for a register might not have helped either. Those things aren't air tight even when closed, but that's probably a smaller problem than an unobstructed slot in the side.
I had the same problem with my cr-10, bed not heating up past 76 degrees C. I was told to double check the 120 /220 slide switch on the side. Being the arrogant fool I was, I laughed at him and said ..yeah did that already. Then I was told to use a thin small screwdriver and finish pushing it to 120v and guess what he was right because then it was no longer stuck halfway between the two voltages. It wasn't making good a good connection. Now my bed heats to 115 degrees C. So that was a humbling lesson. Maybe that's the problem with the bed heating properly.
Well that was a red hot mess to watch. 😀
it was a red hot mess lol
So you obsess about the gaps between sheets, yet you just leave a huge hole down the side??? I have rarely seen 2 grown men that I thought were more in need of adult supervision. Entertaining? Yes. Instructional? Not so much.
Slugsie I felt the same way!!! This was hilarious and yet scary at the same time! They’re just missing “Curly”; we’ve got Moe and Larry!!!!
Thought the same thing. I've being obsessing over my Ender 3 enclosure, so I don't end up doing a mess exactly as they did. On the other hand, if I do a mess, I end up wasting my time and materials, whereas they can upload this (miss aligned, miss cut, fumble mess) video to youtube and make money.
Slugsie please tell me oh master of heat where they said it was a guide and who follows a video buys materials and try’s to build stuff without watching the whole video first so it’s your own damn fault you wasted your resources and time
I would of made a hole and feed the wire through
made one late last year when the loft where the CR10 is got really gold. Mine has a small greenhouse heater to keep ambient temperature warm for printing (no more MINTEMP errors). No window, just a huge removable panel for the door, made whole space large enough for the filament spool at the side/top (depends how I'm feeling) and a webcam. All glued with hot melt glue then taped up. Heated bed alone gets it up to 40C+ in there.
Shouldn't be the silver side be inside ?
cause the silver side reflects the heat better than the white side :/
Thought so too but the ambient temperature inside won't be high enough for the silver to make any difference as the silver will only reflect radiation heat. Also, white does a pretty good job as well.
Because it looks for better with the silver side outside (together with the aluminium tape) and the thing that actually is doing the insulation is the foam itself.
technically the silver would reflect the light, but the light that we car about for this is IR, not visible. what this means is, while yes it would help, it is so marginal due to size and temp that it really doesn't matter. you can have the same effect with cardboard and packing foam, anything to insulate the air temp so it wont cool the print bed.
MrGrebgnet That's incorrect. Adding reflectix to my acrylic enclosure definitely helped retain heat. It got hot quicker and stayed hot longer. For ABS he needs to add a heater and water cool the steppers and extruder and possibly air cool the filament. I've experimented a lot. He needs to hit between 40-70c. Which will degrade the motors and soften the filament. Making it very difficult to extrude.
Sintoxic Not quite, the foam is absorbing the heat way more than the mylar, which reflects the infrared radiation much more efficiently. It being mostly white helps a bit, but not enough.
Please read through the various comments Joel. I really feel you two need to reattempt this after hearing everyone's advice and suggestions. It should be possible to make a heat enclosure for the CR10 so that you can deliver quality ABS prints from it. Don't give up.
I had to come back for another laugh!!!! This is hilarious!!!! I would keep an extinguisher nearby, though so you won't have to pull a "This Is Us" and haul ass at 3am for a fire evacuation. Seeing ole Bill-bo inside that doghouse trying to dial it in was classic!!!! This is a major fail and it was hilarious!!!!! Billy was trying to get the hell outta dodge; rushing like he had better things to do! Classic!!! Thanks Joel! I would say don't quit your day job, but it's too late for that!!!! LOL!!!! Just kidding! :--) Funny video man! Keep em' coming!!!!
Can we title this video "how not to build a 3D printer enclosure"?
Same thought bro
My 6 years old son can build this piece of crap really better than those fool. Come on guys, didn't you go to kindergarten?
Joel & Billy,
You can have the home center cut the sheets down for you for no extra cost. Err, shouldn't you put the reflective side INSIDE??? I would use the pink insulation foam so the little foam shit doesn't get in everything. I would also attach a grounding wire to the box to bleed off any static buildup on the foam box. Last thing you wanna do is EMP your printer.
CapnRumple It depends on the store. Not all stores do that.
I've had it done at Home Depot & Lowes.
this kind of comercials really makes sense. U managed to create content which fits perfectly with sellers. Congrats bro
I made a foam enclosure years ago. Note that the foil should be on the inside. If you cut the foam at 45 degree angles, you can use glue to fuse them together. Using 2 inch thick foam is not much more expensive but holds the heat in a whole lot better. I used a cheap webcam and LED Light so I could see inside along with a reptile heater to give a boost to the warmth inside.
Thank you for publishing not only successes but also failures. I learn more from a failure than I do from a success. For me, this is the very best video you have made so far. You rock guys!
I needed to power my heated bed with a 24V power supply to reach temperatures for ABS. Now it reaches 100C degrees in about 4 minutes. It's a 300x300mm aluminum heated bed.
Nice to see “professionals” making a really botched up ....stick it there and it will do.....sloppy job......same as I do!
1. The shiny side reflects radiant heat effectively when there is an air barrier, so put shiny side facing the hot parts for better effectiveness. 2. you can easily cut big chunky square dovetails along each edge to add strength over the simple butt joint you used. 3. painting outside with thick paint over a layer of fiberglass window screen adds stiffness on the cheap.
super great video - guys! we just got our second cr10-s5 to print big parts with new bed heater, e3d all metal hotend and halogen lights (now very cheap - found the nasa paper on reworking a lulzbot, which we did for pc/peek printing)) - now doing it on our cr10 - really big parts - strong and little deformation under use (we build custom niche machines for research) - awesome program!
Please create a DIY channel together. This is the most entertaining video I've seen in youtube in ages.
petition for Joel/ Bill to make a hot wire foam slicer.
Domenico Lamberti that is a great idea
yeah ... lets see him cut through that metal coating .... oops
I've not seen Bill use a heated foam slicer, nor discuss an aversion to them, but I would think he's got plenty of opinions as to their usefulness. Either way I would think this is an area where you're better off buying, rather than building, unless Bill has some specific feature requirements that market has not met thus far.
ironically I made a 3D printable hotwire cutter handle. That said a sharp utility knife will cut foam like no one's business!
Two of our favorite people yayy!! We used one of Katelyn's old nail polish bottles to make an ABS slurry bottle/applicator and it works great! Also accelerant smells like raspberries and it's toxicly delicious
what are you guys doing here
You mean what are they doing here 3 years ago?
@@3DPrintingNerd probably but the real question is what are they doing here 5 years ago?
@@menta1Most likely is just being freaking awesome, but that's only a guess.
Good grief! I wouldn't hire you guys to make anything after watching this lol
I do admire your bravery actually posting it to UA-cam though :-)
Another excellent production! I “built” an enclosure for my Ender 3 using a large cardboard moving box from U-Haul, a 24 x 36 inch sheet of polycarbonate, and some Gorilla Tape for a hinge. Six small neodymium magnets hold the “door” against the opening nicely. When ambient is 70-80 F, the enclosure stabilizes to between 110-120 F, regulated by a small adjustable vent on top, inspired by your production. Before using the enclosure, my Ender 3’s bed, with a borosilicate plate instead of the stock one, would not heat above 90-95 C in room temperatures, but now can reach 120 C in around 8 minutes. I get excellent results with ABS when printing my initial layer at 110 C, dropping to 100 C afterwards. Your tips on improving 3D prints have been awesome, thanks!
I have a CR-10s I bought in 2020 that couldn't get the bed up to 100C without shutting down most days and it would take the better part of an hour. I could get it to about 96C for printing but once the print started, the bed struggled to keep the temp and would sometimes shut down during the print. This told me that I probably needed a bigger power supply. Or, I could upgrade the bed heater with one with a higher wattage that plugs directly into the wall, but I wanted to wait on that. Since I was printing ABS, I also wanted to be able to contain the fumes and possibly vent them to a nearby window using foil dryer vent tubing and this seemed to be the ideal solution.
I used 1/2" foam sheets and aluminum tape. I used a discarded picture frame's acrylic for the door and a discarded scrap of paneling to make strips to fasten the door to.
It wasn't pretty but it did the trick. My bed now easily heats to 100C in about 15 minutes. However, 100C is too much for the ABS I am using but found that 96C is adequate. When the temperature of the room is about 22C and the humidity is around 35%, the interior of the box is around 39C near the top and with a 20% humidity reading.
Some tips: 1) Use a very sharp knife and try to get your cuts as straight as possible. The straighter they are, the better your box will hold heat however, the aluminum duct tape helps hold in the heat.
2) I ALMOST used thicker drywall anchors to help hold the pieces as screws are useless in styrofoam, but with the strategic use of tape, I didn't need them. I taped both inside and outside.
3) My foam sheets only had aluminum on one side and outside was the plastic covering. The aluminum tape doesn't stick to this stuff very well so I went over it again with Gorilla tape to keep it in place.
4) You don't need a tight seal on the bottom. My box sits on top of all the wires, which doesn't seem to be a problem. I put 1/4 hole about an inch above where it feeds into the unit. This might be a problem for taller prints. I don't know yet, but if it does, I may change this into a thin slit. But, tape the bottom, too to keep the foam sheets from shedding styrofoam granules.
5) Budget about $100 for everything. I needed two sheets of foam at about $15 each. My enclosure is 26" tall, 24" wide, and 28" deep.
I print ABS on the clear glass which comes with the printer, coated with a couple of layers of Elmer's glue stick which I put down about 10 prints ago. The prints are solid but pop right off when it cools down. I use Hatchbox ABS. Your results may vary.
I have been able to get my CR-10 beds up to 100C...slowly. Like 10 minutes. But I had to bump the voltage on the power supply to 13.0-13.5V and add EVA foam to the bottom of the bed to the bed.
I am currently and almost done with designing a cabinet enclosure for my brothers cr-10s. We have a shaper origin cnc but it could be cut out fairly easily with a jigsaw and straight edge as well. It consists of a attic, center, and basements. The attic will hold several rolls of filament on rods and be completely closed off from the printer except for a ptfe tube routing the filament down to the extruder to keep it from making any extreme angles. The printer cabinet will be the printer and that's it the cables will be routed down into the basement and the printer will sit on some type of foam to reduce vibration transfer to the cabinet. The door will be held on by magnets and will have a identical door that isnt see through so that when it's printing over night he can block off the light and sleep in darkness. Also the cabinet will have lights and a camera inside. Possibly a heater for getting to and temps faster. I also want to recess magnets in a wall to hold tools that normally end up lost. The basement will house the printers control module, nice large quiet fans, a raspberry pi and screen, a power strip. The front pannel will house the screens and knob for the printer and a SD card slot in case of needing manual control of adding print or firmware.
We also plan to add sensors for smoke, fire, over temperature so that if it decides to catch fire or close to it, the sensor will kill the power and sound an alarm.
I have the cabinet almost completely designed and it is my very first crack at 3d modeling. I've learned alot in the process of designing this. Will be cutting it out soon. I plan to make a video of the build and in some way make the plans and files available for others to build. And like I said it can be built with CNC or a jigsaw and straight edge. I'll have a couple box joints to make really strong connections and require less hardware.
If I eventually end up getting a cr-10 I'll definitely be making one of these cabinets for myself. But in planning for my brothers printer we have found there isn't many great options out there for a printer as large as the cr-10 and so we decided we would have to do it ourselves.
I made the model completely parametric as well so in theory it should work for the larger model your playing with here as well if I just adjust some numbers.
I haven't even orderd my Cr-10 yet, but I'm already thinking about the enclosure as well. Would be really great to see what you have come up with :)
SayWhatTF SayWhat I'm not sure how I could share a picture of it or anything as I am pretty sure you cannot comment with a URL. But it's almost finished. I'll write back when it's done and I've got some more on it. I should also add that I'm making it where it'll be stackable to have 2 printers or add a second filament cabinet on top or make legs under it. Those I'll design after the current cabinet but I plan to make those to make the design even more cool.
photos.app.goo.gl/VkgTBo8aEFEHIpin2 not sure if i can share a url to an image on here. but here is a rendering of where im at currently. still got some changes to make and some things to add. other things i think ill add after cutting because they are going to be based on how the components fit together, how the printer fits inside. Designed this for my brothers cr-10s but i believe with some number changes it would fit the larger one.
Looks really nice :) Is it possible to guide the filament from the upper cabine down through a opening? Some points I have: You will most likely need more space at the top, since you have to consider the cables on top of the extruder that could touch the ceiling if you print something big. Leveling the bed could be annoying, since you have to reach deep inside the box to level the back side. Fire danger is one more point, there are some stories about burned down houses because of 3d printers by now, so I don't know if wood is the best choice (But I don't know how serious this actually is, maybe I'm overreacting on this one... ^^''). And since I'm probably the only one that will see your work here under this youtube video, you should maybe consider posting your work on thingiverse (thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general) or on reddit (reddit.com/r/CR10/) - people always appreciate stuff like that ;)
"A temperature reading thermometer" when I heard you say something like i would say, i know i needed to subscribe to your channel. Your sincere, down to earth and have a great channel.
If you attach a sheet of plumbers felt to the bottom of the bed with kapton tape around the edges you can get a stock CR-10 to 90, especially if you have it in an enclosure. :)
Awesome project Joel and Bill. You guys are amazing.
The insulation will work far better if the metal coating is on the inside because it will reflect the heat back into the enclosure as the insulation is designed to work in this way for homes. Also, it can be a benefit if in really cold environments to use a small heater to blow warmer air into the box as well. however, it should not be needed if you make a base out of the foam to place the printer on as well to make sure the bottom is kept warm and cold out as well. the top of the box can just sit upon this so the top can still be removed for part removal.
I watched all of your video which means I must have enjoyed it. Within the first few minutes you could see what the rest of the video was going to be like, no major surprises just two guys building a cheap enclosure. Well done, things don’t have to be perfect to be functional but boy you seem to have set the cat amongst the pigeons and receiving some harsh comments for you efforts. Keep up the good work your decisions on video content have got you to where you are today.
Stephen Berrisford à
How tall is Bill?
Thanks for the shout out, joel!
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Also I am going to put a 115VAC heater bed. So I will be able to print ABS I saw you talked about a slurry, I will be looking for that video. The hot end thermister opened up and I will be replacing it to day too. Keep up the good videos.. Thanks
LACES OUT!!
Such a fun build to watch. HOT TIP!!! Since the CR10s (s4/s5) comes in a box with it's X-gantry already assembled if you use box's width dimension as the internal width dimension for the enclosure your Xgantry will have room to move (inside the enclosure).
Be careful about saying you can use this enclosure with “any printer”. I have a hitop I-3 and the printed parts were PLA. Didn’t know that until my son was printing in our garage during the hottest part of the summer and the PLA parts melted, dropping out the linear bearing and warping the extruder X guide. In Phoenix when it’s 115F outside, the garage can get even hotter and with the printer inside an enclosure I made it even worse.
I'm here because I want a 3D printer but don't know enough about them to just go buy one without researching it to some degree first... So I've watched several videos, beginning to feel a little less intimidated by the thought of the (to me) steep learning curve, and then I came across this. Imagine my surprise when they built the box inside out! lol
This is some hill billy do it yourself-er and I love it xD. Once my CR10 comes in I'll get to building one of these. Great work guys!
I will do it for my normal cr-10! Thank you for the idea!
I know a lot of people watching probably know but I think it would have been beneficial to those who don't to explain why ABS wants a consistent temperature and the Pros of printing with it in the middle section, that way we get helpful tips too!
Did you force Bill to stand in a hole or are your heights just that different :)
Glass and masonry drill bits are great for drilling acrylics and other brittle plastics. Rotary ball files are good too.
I'm going to do this but with interlocking exercise mats. Thanks for the video!!!
First off. I looked into this last year and didn't do it because the foam boards shouldn't be heated because they'll out gas! Also they're flammable!
Why print ABS? There's better options.
If you do this please do it so the foil faces in. It might keep it from catching fire and might reduce out gassing.
If I were printing ABS once a month I would use this! We've all seen better but in a pinch this is good enough.
Thanks Joel! High five!
is it posibel to print with the bed on 70 degrees?
At 29:02 - seeing via the clear door that they NEVER COVERED the huge slot in the left side!. Holy crap NO WONDER it never got warmer than it did. It lets most of the heat out the top of the slot and sucked cool air in from the bottom of the slot. That's like opening all the doors and windows in a house in winter and wondering why the house isn't warm enough! I've never made a printer enclosure, but I have made a foam "hot box"(well, warm box) for helping to cure composite epoxy/fiberglass covered foam wing cores more quickly (box roughly 48 long x 24 x 24, plenty of clearance insice). Made it out of blue foam, using two 100 W incandescent light bulbs at each end as a heat source and a 4" pancake fan to circulate the air to avoid hot spots/cool spots (covered the inside with sheets of aluminum foil after spraying some 3M77 adhesive inside, before adding the other parts inside). Anyway, I found that if there was just a 1/2" gap between the bottom of the box and the tabletop, that cost about 20 degrees F (120F vs 140F) from cooler air seeping in thru that gap. So I had to be sure it fit more flush. It would have been almost worthless if I had put a huge 4" wide slot in the side, all the way up.
Back to the point, they could have avoided that gap by not being so cheap, trying to use a single 4 x 8 sheet. If they'd used two sheets, they could have made it wide enough not to have the clearance problem (actually, at first I thought they would make a HUGE enclosure to hold everything inside, and have some practical (?) way to raise and lower it. But the heat inside would not be good for the printer's electronics box and power supply longevity). Anyway, that bug gap was not the only problem, there still would have been problems with the filament feed. They didn't have any good view AT ALL showing how the filament feed went thru for doing actual printing, or the other wiring for that matter, and nothing on how they sealed up that air gap (Indeed it was as though they went out of their way to avoid showing the left side of the box at 29 minutes in, but that was the most important area to show). I figure they didn't seal that either, since they didn't bother to seal the huge gap. I think his editor was able make a Burlap purse out of a sow's ear. :) It's like "we made a train wreck of a project, but we shot a lot of video, so let's post it anyway. Gloss over and not show all the mistakes, so others may make the same mistakes". I will say the plexiglass door with magnets was a nice touch, if I ever make one of these I probably will copy that, so there was some good from seeing this. BTW - for anyone who might make one of these (properly, no gaps/holes), consider adding white LED strips or some SAFE form of lighting inside to make the print progress (or problems) a lot easier to see.
In Germany one would say if a guest forgets to close the door "Habt ihr Säcke vor der Türe?" as "Are you having bags before the door?" Well as not having doors at all were the guest lives. Also it made me anxious laying down the baren acrylic and then dropping scratchy screws at it.
A nice side-effect of the foam enclosure would be sound absorption, making for quieter as well as warmer printing. No more god-awful motor whine.
PongoXBongo doesn’t a stepper motor damper kill most of the whine?
Yes. But some more bare-bones printers still make a ton of noise, which a padded/insulated enclosure could definitely help with.
Another plus is, of course, keeping most of the ABS fumes inside.
@@Spacekriek Where they could be safely vented out a window with some flexible dryer vent hosing (cheap enough at most hardware stores).
I only watch your videos for the Killer Instinct lines. ;) I think what I like most about your videos in general are you showing the whole thing and not being edited to make it "look better" and such. Great video!
Was that BSI super glue? I actually use that for putting a finish on my pens that I make on the lathe. Good stuff. Most accelerants don't smell good, but BSI actually makes their to be "safe".
Question: Is it okay if the filament sits inside of the box? I would be making one for an Mp Mini v2 and the filament rack sits right next to the printer
Loved every minute of this video. Just like Blue Peter when I was a kid without the perfect “here’s one we made earlier” reveal at the end.
I made a box out of the same panel material to dry wood, silver side in, insulation tape to keep it together at edges, lightbulbs on dimmer switch and a kitchen thermometer...temp gets high fast, even cold shop.
I overvolted my cr-10 a bit (~14V)
that way i get the bed to 90°C without a problem. With insulation and / or an enclosure you can get it to 110°C without a problem that way :)
Fun to watch, but it would have been nice to see a few ABS prints before and after :D
Yeah Billy was in a rush..... it's good though to get the ball rolling for ideas. I see you were cool, but could tell you were a little frustrated with his rushing and half-ass construction. Basically, it's a big ass foam dog house with duct tape. All you guys need is a couple of tin foil cone hats and the incarnation will be complete! He would be wearing that box if I were there! :-) I am literally in tears over here!!! Seeing you guys working with this Reynolds Wrap box!
If only the 3D Printing Nerd could have found somebody to manufacture parts for his enclosure out of some sort of polymer.:)
While not a terribly technically proficient build it is a good demonstraion for people who are intersted in the basics. Plus There is an extension cable for the CR-10 that could allow your control box to be further away.
P.S Don't give in to the foil on the outside haters they have no sense of style. Bling is all important.
that noise is awesome thanks
You can get a Mosfet that gives the bed more power and saves your board. I burned up my X3 board printing ABS, it too took FOREVER to get to temperature.
Please please... can someone please help, my y axis is juddering, no matter what I try I can’t seem to fix..!
1. The wire has been swapped to see if motor was problem and problem transfers to another axis.
2. The wheels aren’t too tight I’ve tested that.
Adjusted the mother board pots for resistivity, doesn’t do much.. maybe slight temporary improvement.
What else can I try; it’s been 8 months or more now, just don’t know what else to do but ask for help.
28:52 HOLY, 16º Ambient, my Girlfriend starts putting on cold clothes at around 24º, and the guy is wearing a T-shirt.
Insulate the bed or slap on an external mosfet and second power supply for your heating. Or do both.
My CR-10 with my amazing enclosure (just about right size cardboard box) has a problem where the extruder gear gets too hot and chews through the filament. Enjoy!
Thank you for this Video I enjoyed it. I am going to build one of these. After reading the comets, I think I will put the shinny side in and paint the outside.
Hello, I need somebody's help on deciding whether I should or shouldn't upgrade to the CR 10 from the Anet A8. I want a more reliable printer that doesn't require a crap ton of fixing. I'm fine with fixing, but when I have to fix something twice a week, then it becomes a problem. My anet a8 is having trouble leveling and getting a perfect height even with auto level and glass bed. My lead screws go up at uneven rates. If I turn one side the other will go up slowly. The CR 10 seems like it wouldn't need a ton of fixing. Also my bed heats up with no stopping. I need help deciding if the upgrade is worth it.
you sealed all the side to keep the heat in while you cut a big slot on the side... hmm...
Yes, you have to with the CR10 to maintain a decent filament path, if you keep the standard Bowden extruder(it climbs). I have done similar slot for my CR10s box....But, I made my box the correct size, so my slot is just wide enough for the filament(not the entire left side of the X-gantry). For my S5 I will be changing to a direct drive extruder and placing the filament spool above the enclosure then just a small hole is required.
There is a file on Thingiverse to convert the existing parts to direct drive. I might do this very thing myself once I build the wooden box.
They could of just cut a small hole. And put the foil on the inside
the silver side facing in would have helped the box heat, as a quick cheap fix get a space blanket and cover the inside to reflect heat back into the space you want to remain heated perhaps
Insulate the bed, thicker wires, MOSFET module, and make your enclosure big enough to where you don't have to cut the side out...yeesh...
But the principle is sound :) good build video, also, put the shiny side in, it reflects heat better
Im sorry Joel. Im a big fan of you but this video....even though you did say its not meant to be pretty.... i'm sure you can see that just taking 5 more min you could of done something a bit better build or straight for that matter. I am sure that you too pride your self on a job well done.
Bill seemed on a rush to get out of there and the video was not to your usual standard.
Again very sorry to sound so negative. Anyway sure next one will be as good as all other of your videos. Big on 3dpn high5
Charles Sabate I agree. It doesn’t take long to measure everything and cut straight lines. If you’re gonna spend money on the materials then you should at least build it properly.
Some times you just gotta get sh*t done.
Jamie Smith LOL. Still, you will agree that the video was not as good as it nornaly is with Joel.
They feel as though they are just winging it no will at all
We all have those moments, thanks for sharing. Have a great night. God bless
Joeeeeeeel we love you, much love from Cape Town south Africa my dude
Awesome video!! Made one my self for my Tevo Tornado, and it works great!
Thank you for an ENTERTAINING 32 minutes. Next time, more beer! I could watch you two all day... I'm trying to imagine how that Mark 3 build went 😀...
just a thought, if make the X and E cable longer, you can cut a small hole on top and let the filament run from the top, and a small hole on the side for the cables to run to the top, at least in that way, you won't have such a big slot for the heated air to escape
Michael Ng but the filament has to go to all 4 corners! Wouldn't it make its own cuts through the foam eventually? What a mess that would be!
CR-10 is bowden type instead of direct drive, which means the extruder is at a fixed spot (XY, not Z), so the filament come from the top should make more sense imo, in this way you just need a small hole for it to go inside the box
Would it be possible to use PETG for an enclosure for a printer without it warping? This isn't for printing ABS, it's to make it quieter.
Now the "2.0" version with internal lighting and print viewing camera for maximum thermal insulation.
You could put a bit of dryer vent hose in the side and add warm air with your heat gun. Might be able to keep the bed at a lower temp that way, but you'd need to watch the ambient inside and blow in some air from time to time.
Big gaping gash on the side means no need for a vent on the top!
Definitely useful to know you can build a lightweight enclosure. I hadn't thought about it myself, but that's a really good idea. Other than that I did consider the heated bed and all metal extruder for my printer needing at least a 24 volt power supply to heat faster for flexible materials and ABS printing. I was woried about ABS because of not having an enclosure and this is a great and pretty cheap solution. Thanks guys! Can't wait to get my Ender 3 ... next year ... budgets suck.
The cuts for your box and vents and other hand made wonkyness are killing my OCD
3hours... 92 centigrade was the highest I got in my enclosure with stock heater mat ... upgraded to 220v 750w silicon Matt with relay control.. 100 centigrade bed temp within in 2 minutes...
I have a CR10s and it takes a few minutes to reach 70C though I never tried printing ABS so I didn't try higher bed temps.
I love the large build volume, good print quality and low price. I also love the integrated electonics in a separate enclosure. I've thought about building a small print farm with 4-6 of these mounted next to each other on a wall with a heated enclosure surrounding them all and the electronics on a shelf underneath so they run cool for reliable operation and long life. Two pieces of compatible extruded aluminum could tie the tops and bottoms of all printers together to make them even more rigid.
The silver side of the insulation should have been towards the inside. The larger c-10s only have a 300x300 heat bed, which leads to poor heating. A standard size CR-10 will reach 90-100c if you insulate the bed.
Joel and Bill, making me feel much better about my Monoprice Maker Select! just kidding although in my cold garage I can hit 120C on the bed, with a beefy mosfet and direct power from the PSU.
I do find it entertaining when you and Bill get together as I’ve been listening to Bill since the Fitness Geek days and the two of you show that perfection is t needed 😉
Great show ,enjoy your info. And humor. Throw me in for
When you go to buy your insulation from the hardware store...pick up a metal ruler while you're there, it'll make everything quicker.
Do they sell 1metre rulers in US hardware shops, or do you have to make do with 1yard?
Glad to see I'm not the only person in the hardware store parking lot trying to shove way too much foam into a tiny car lol
hahahahaha
If you change your power supply to a higher amp one you can up your temperature more.
Aren't you supposed to put the silver side in? It will reflect the heat?
Friends, where i can buy the cr10 in EEUU. What's the model in this video
I would add a Arduino with a temperature sensor and a servo control for the vent you could even add a fan or a heater on a relay to temperature control the ambient temperature of the printer.
Heat rises! Vent should be near or on the top (but some silicone would need to be applied to the meeting surfaces to enable closed to be "closed")!
Great idea, You could put a servo motor on the vent with an Arduino Uno and a theracoupler to help maintain the heat, I'm sure not needed but...
If you're doing this to keep heat in, why didn't you make the box with the reflective side *inside* of the box instead of the outside?
If you want to keep the heat in why are you not doing silver inside
So would a thermostat controlled heat gun or blow dryer inside the enclosure improve the ABS print quality even more by creating an evenly heated environment? Or would heating the entire printer to 90 degrees overheat something?
Ideally you don't want any kind of draft(moving air) around the print with ABS.
Why silver out? Wouldn't the silver be better inside as it would reflect the heat back into the box? Which I would have thought is what you want.
3D printer “operator’s” want their prints perfect,
But when they make a enclosure that will be seen by all and someone’s first impression of a 3D printer when coming in house.... chuck it together, not even putting the door and vent straight !
That is literally a 2 min video, all that is missing is a hot glue gun 😂
What good is it.With that huge cut along the side of it.Most of the heat will escape.
Silver should be on the inside, it is designed to reflect light (including light in the IR frequency range).
And the screws and nuts should be reversed. The bolt should pass through the hindge into the foam.