I hope this video was helpful and here are some key feedback comments so far: They may not allow delivery of kerosene without an 'approved' tank. Reversing the direction of the air blower mod may give better results to improve efficiency. The heater was held at customs because of poor instructions which could cause someone to use it dangerously. The heater itself is fine. I'm looking forward to hearing your other thoughts on the subject and any ideas for future videos. Here are some links but there is also more in the description. Cheers J The Diesel heater I recomend getting: UK: amzn.to/3ZO5S57 USA: amzn.to/3ZQgBMr Diesel heater featured: UK: amzn.to/3TUGYgo USA: amzn.to/3TUGYgo Additional affiliate links: Power supply 240v - 12v 300w UK: amzn.to/3BhmvZO USA: amzn.to/3PaYJoc glow plug burner mesh: UK: amzn.to/4euSkQv USA: amzn.to/4erp1OH *The Ulefone Armour 24 tough phone* Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG UK: amzn.to/3H3LcLX USA: amzn.to/47IxrxG *The Ulefone Armor 18T tough phone with built in thermal camera* Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG UK: amzn.to/3TpDQd4 USA: amzn.to/3RGMTol *Ulefone Armor Pad 2 Rugged Tablet UK: amzn.to/48grLLe US: amzn.to/48kJEse *Ulefone Armour 24 specifications* IP68/IP69K, MIL-STD-810H（Water proof, drop proof and dust proof ） Versatile Light 6.78" FHD+ 120Hz 22000 mAh Mega Battery MediaTek Helio G96 Up to 24 GB + 256 GB Android 13 64 MP Wide-angle 64 MP Night Vision Two IR LEDs NFC + Google Pay IR Blaster Reverse Charging ***WIN*** for just £5 enter the raffle competitions here: raffall.com/joshuadelisle Note these raffles are sometimes to help charities and are to cover my costs to do honest reviews and to invest in making better content. Please do suggest a charity that you belive is in need that I can look into helping via the comment section of my videos. The winner of the raffle will be notified by Raffall or myself via email and on the Raffall website, never answer to messages on social media as they maybe scammers. *TOPDON TC001 thermal image camera(Android)*: UK: amzn.to/3uUVV8j USA: amzn.to/48gkXxf *TOPDON TC002 thermal image camera(IOS)*: UK: amzn.to/3uPbe2A USA: amzn.to/47LN3As *Air quality monitor*: UK: amzn.to/41f0Mxy USA: www.walmart.com/ip/Hofun-Air-Quality-Monitor-Professional-Detector-5-1-Indoor-Pollution-Tester-AQI-PM2-5-PM10-HCHO-Formaldehyde-TVOC-Particulate-Meter-Home-Car-Office-H/2335367669 *Recommended air quality monitor reviews*: ( @Outside-In ) Six Air Quality Monitor Comparisons PLUS a Tear-Down of a Fake Meter: ua-cam.com/video/K3-Yvhk0C8o/v-deo.htmlsi=Zqa6tTHEKoSoTxWP ( @electronicsNmore ) Home Air Quality Testing & Tips(Dust/Toxins/Allergies): ua-cam.com/video/LxPfk2rluvo/v-deo.htmlsi=pS94FOxduTFk76We *Oil Drum 205ltr/45gallon* (Note not all heating oil services will deliver without an official/approved tank, it's worth contacting your local supplier first): UK: amzn.to/41qr7J4
Here's another idea for (supplimental) heating: did you know that composting is exothermic--i.e. produces heat? Up to 70C at times. It occurred to me that if you buried a car radiator (or two or three) in a compost pile--mostly wood waste, as that takes the longest to break down, but any proper ratio of 'greens' to 'browns' would do--and pumped water through it to a second radiator set up with a fan in your shop, that would offset at least some of the fuel you would need to burn. If you look up 'Jean Pain compost heating', you'll find a *LOT* of info on what it is all about, including how to harvest the methane that composting produces as yet another energy source. Cheers!
26:40 you can't talk about temperature in %, because the temperature scale is a relative scale, 0C is actually 273.15K. do the math again in K and you get another % value. or do it in F and get another %. so just never talk about % when you talk temperatures. its not applicable so its wrong. you should talk temperature difference instead in degrees.
The last two minutes summarizing the stupidity and irony of the modern world is just brilliant. Common sense and practical knowledge from a great man. Well done my friend
I'm off-grid here in Finland. I provide my own power: in summer this is easy, solar. In winter, heating is done with wood - with a very efficient wood gasification boiler. Power in winter is generated with a diesel generator running on biodiesel I make in summer from waste vegetable oil. Using wood is very common here, especially in the countryside. It's the cheapest fuel for this, and readily available everywhere. I produce mine (cut and split with electrical tools when I have excess solar power) from my own forest, turning a tree farm into a diverse forest.
Far as i understand in Finland waste vegetable oil is classed as dangerous waste and cannot legally be given to anyone except for kemira or other official recycling company glamorate.. that then burns it to produce power and heat, while charging the restaurant owner recycling fee... I presume you know some restaurant owner that didnt mind giving you it trough back door, or are you using that much vegetable oil that you can run it trough generator??
@@Hellsong89 It's even allowed (in home use) to put it into plastic containers and put in mixed waste, and some wholesalers have cooking oil reception points. It's not very difficult to get hold of, and it's not like I need a lot of it: 100L goes a long way (only needed in November, December and January).
@@kaidokivitoa9127 Likely works fine (like this Diesel heater does) - it's just easier for me to use wood as primary heating solution an WVO for electricity. Wood is just easier to deal with and abundant in my case.
When you run the exhaust through a radiator to super-cool it and pull more heat out of it the condensed liquid it produces has a very high probability of becoming acidic, so you may want to keep an eye on the radiator you've added for rusting out faster than expected.
Indeed, it is easier to heat a medium from low to high, to gradually heat it up, if you start at the hot side it heats up fast but then can't heat anymore because the air is already hotter than the exhaust. Also the flow needs to be higher than the flow of the exhaust, it would be fun to see the flows on that.
Yes. Might want to opt for an aluminium radiator since aluminium is more resistant to acid corrosion vise. Just dont get salt water on it; aluminium hate that
@@RealGengarTV I would have suggested Zinc Chromate coating to the radiator but upon closer look, it wouldn't be a good idea since it emits toxic chromium fumes upon heating.
I'm still rocking a flip phone here in the states.My boss has the 'Cat' smartphone and it's a tank,watching you pound nails with the screen on that thing was the coolest thing I've seen in a tick!!
Just thought that I would mention the exhaust angle, if anybody is looking at harvesting the heat from it. Whether using water, air, sand or whatever medium to extract the heat from the exhaust (which is a great idea)….. the water vapour within the exhaust gases will always condense inside the exhaust pipe. Therefore, it’s best to keep the exhaust pipe at a continuous downward angle, so that the water can escape….. outside, ideally. Also, maybe have a look for a smooth pipe oppose to the ribbed one that comes as standard. If you used some stainless plumbing pipe and fittings….. it will last forever!! Thanks for the videos, Joshua. Always engaging, interesting, and love the humour 🤪.
In corrugated exhaust pipe at any angle there are always pockets for water to collect. It is constantly evaporating/vaporizing as more is condensing, in a process that turns gas to liquid to vapour in the exhaust. Even once shutdown, the pipe being 80°C will speed up evaporation of all of the carbonic acid, eventually. Its deliberately a large surface area/volume ratio. If you use a smooth pipe you do maximize the output of carbonic acid, but to paraphrase Dr Ian Malcolm "we were so busy asking whether or not we could, we forgot to ask ourselves if we should"
I wouldn’t let that water get outside, it’s going to be contaminated. Make the exhaust, going down, and if you do use the barrel for hot water, have the pipe continue downward, then up and out. At the bottom of the dip, put a tee pointed down to a small tank, with the opening of the pipe near the bottom. Put a float valve into the tank, and place it so there is always a few centimeters of water in the tank. That will keep exhaust from escaping through the tank. The float should activate a small pump that would go to the sewer when it gets full enough. The wastewater treatment plant can handle that stuff a whole lot better than your lawn or anywhere else that stuff would run, such as a stream or river. If you want to extract more heat into the water in your tank, put a finned pipe inside the tank for better heat extraction. BYW, put a vent on your heat tube close to the burner end, and turn the fan around to blow the air in, rather than pulling it out. It’ll make for better heat coming out of the heat tube, and it won’t be warming the exhaust pipe on its way out. It’s rather like the way modern furnaces work, by getting the most heat out of whatever you are pulling heat from.
The exhaust gas condensate is rather acidic so it is hard on many materials that's what we found out around here with the condensing fuel oil furnaces it was actually rotting out the heat exchangers but they were considerably thinner and cheaper than the ones these are using
This was one of the most superb, well articulated videos I’ve seen yet on the heaters. Flipping awesome!!! Absolutely brilliant - he’s like the Colin furze of keeping us warm!
You should have that little fan blowing in instead of sucking out. When trying to exchange heat in that way, it's best to have the two medias (exhaust gas, and cooling air) going opposite directions. Also, not sure if you have already or not, but make sure your long run of exhaust has a slope out so the moisture condensing will run out instead of staying in there.
Carbon monoxide floats in air while carbon dioxide sinks. Idk if sloping it in either direction is safe... but then again, it is forced air. if I had to choose though, I'd slope it downwards from the source. Then carbon dioxide would be the main gas to worry about coming back in (especially after turning it off.) And at least that gas is detectable even without assistance. - but then we'd have to make sure there is always a fan cooling the exhaust. The slope would make heat rise towards the heater.
Thanks! Just about everything I want out of a YT video. Humour, intelligence, practicality, and common sense. I was going to send you some sticks from a nearby wood but opted for 5 quid instead. Thanks again.
Aussie here, I make biodiesel from used cooking oil I pick up from various places and successfully run my ute, tractor and diesel log splitter. I was so hoping to run the two diesel heaters that heat my home off it too, however, even mixing with bought diesel, the burn chambers and gauze clog up with sooty stuff and they won't fire up. So now I just run them on bought diesel. Thanks for your input, regards from down under!
Twenty years ago, I ran my Diesel VW Bus on pure vegetable oil - there was a heated Bosch Diesel filter that helped a lot. I'd also recommend using a water separator in the fuel line, as frying oil often contains some water. And maybe you could try using small pebbles instead of sand, then you could perhaps use is as a thermal mass or blow air through them to extract heat.
Love from cold lapland, I've been on the fence since your first heater video but it seems that this absolutely is the most convenient way to heat my outside workshop. Many thanks for the continuing morale boost for becoming a self sufficient "guy who builds things".
Thank you. These cheap Diesel heaters are great for the money and more importantly the fact they are easy to maintain/service and install on your own. It's important though to take extra precautions to make sure it's safe, so things like CO2 and fire alarms are a must. Cheers J
Top tip for using WVO... Mix it with 20% petrol then leave it for a couple of days before you filter it. The petrol acts as a solvent and 90% of the crude drops to the bottom of the tank you're storing it in. Great video by the way
Yeah, but you are adding to the cost again. it's going to cancel the saving out using petrol🤷🏻♂️. Unless you can filter petrol again and use it for something?😂... faff springs to mind
@@Dolmar-Rick If it's mixed with gasoline then you can use it as is, so instead of mixing with kerosene or diesel you just use it mixed with 10-20% petrol and that should make it thin enough and burn easier. Seen plenty guys running veg oil mixed with only 10% gasoline on diesel cars, not sure the best ratio for these heaters but it should be similar
Hi, you can increase the efficiency of the ducted fan solution by reversing the flow of the fan. I.e. push colder air in at the point furthest away from the heater. This keeps a more constant temperature differential between the air and the exhaust pipe temperature and thus better heat exchange.
Yes, I thought the same. (Just edited this because I reread what I'd written and realised I was previously talking gibberish!) But, It's called the principle of contra flow. When you want two fluids to exchange the most heat in the most efficient way, put the cold inlet of secondary fluid (could be liquid or gas) into the heat exchanger at the cold end of the primary fluid. That way the cooler primary can still give up heat to the colder secondary) The computer fan wouldn't enjoy being so close to the 200•C end of the Exhaust pipe either, so reversing the polarity of the fan and blowing air in rather than moving it to the other end of your shroud and sucking the air out will reverse the flow like you say. That's the way forward... 🤔
Correct on the counter flow. Also, pushing room air in is essential for the life of the server fan by having cool vs hot gas cooking the windings. @@ColinWoodpeckerUK
Hi from Canada Joshua, so you lot are the reason my wood is so expensive, lol. I started watching do-it-yourself videos, and you popped up, and I'm shocked you don't have more subs. Great information and well explained. Thank you.
it would be best if you got cracking on one of these before trudeau bans them here, I've got two one for my shed/shop and one for the house. this year ill be trying a different fuel tank idea for more capacity 25L jerry cans with a hole drilled in the cap for the standpipe fuel pick up to quintuple my capacity and because with the tank above the unit I'm pretty sure I've leaked more than I burned last year. I just stole a cap off an old can to seal it to refill the can come back transfer to the cap with the standpipe and its good to go for another week
I dont usually sub because of 1 video, but your logical and practical approach, effective communication skills and indomitable humour make it an easy choice. Absolutely useful and informative video, thanks!!
If you didn't already; counter flowing the fluid over the exhaust allows for more efficient extraction. Allow the colder side of the exhaust to warm the air and have the air flow over hotter and hotter sections of the exhaust, so the temperature difference is high across the box section.
Great point. He could just turn the fan over and make it blow into the cooler end. Must admit, I wondered where the air was coming in from… anyway, wherever it was, that should work, and as you say, it increases the temperature difference giving better heat extraction over the whole length.
Why not use the fan on the heater to pre heat the air going into the heater? I have seen a video of it and that guy picked up 20-30 degrees c on the outlet temp of the heater and no fan needed.
Another variation on the forced air through the shroud technique would be to make the shroud slightly larger than the diameter of the exhaust pipe and use the fan to PUSH the air through. This would increase the velocity of the air around the pipe and therefore give a larger temp differential, and spare the fan from the hottest air. I'm definitely getting one of these systems when I buy my house.
I had the same idea pushing the air should be the better option. But my main reasoning is different - it is the heat differential. If you push the air(or suck out on the heater side), then the colder ambient air meets the already cooled exhaust pipe there and while it travels to the heater side it warms up on an increasingly hot exhaust pipe. That means on an sufficiently long exhaust pipe the exhaust gas temperature can reach almost ambient temperature inside. A greater airflow or increased surface area on the exhaust pipe would improve too (or reach that result earlier). Probably taking the idea from the output pipe - a pipe to take in the air close from the floor, which should be cooler should be an improvement too,
Great video! Love the info but especially love the entertainment value LoL!!! Also, Ulefone (used for pounding nails at 9:42) are THE best rugged phones hands down! I have several and will never buy any other brand of phone, ever! Thanks!
If you want to extract even more energy out of this system, try putting insulation between the exhaust pipe and the wall. Since the wall goes to the outside, it is going to be cooler and will essentially be a heat sink. By insulating it you have more trapped thermal energy to siphon off which will increase your efficiency specifically on the draw of the exhaust.
Insulate the wall, not the exhaust pipe. Better solution is to add enough pipe onto the exhaust pipe to create a heat exchanger so as to extract as much heat as possible (i.e. exhaust reaches close to room temperature) BEFORE it goes into the wall. Or in other words, run the exhaust pipe into a radiator, which then has a pipe on the outlet going to the wall and then outside.
That's an EDUCATIONAL CONTENT. With the winter outside and the fronts in Europe moving west, I'm so thankful for this vid, it just checked so many preparedness boxes that I have a solution for and don't have to literally worry anymore.
Excellent presentation from a highly intelligent individual, an excellent presenter is able to highlight the necessities without the b/s no one cares about, which inspires me & motivates to think outside the square. Well done mate, keep it up 👍
Thank you. I certainly don't get it 100% right all the time. I already have some comments that make me question a few of my previous thoughts but that's good. It's always good to have pre conceived ideas and beliefs tested so you can find the truth. Cheers J
Like the video. Gave a thumbs up. Do want to say that over a large area, coppicing of trees produces less firewood (or lumber) in the long term than just cutting down the tree and allowing new ones to take their place.
Has anyone mentioned Afterburner for these diesel heaters? It's a project by a guy in Australia and he sells PCBs that turn these heaters into real thermostats which start and stop the heater to keep your set temperature and a ton of other features like monitoring fuel usage.
Great video. I wanted to make a suggestion for the exhaust. I recommend running the exhaust through a water type baseboard heater. These heaters have a pipe for the water to run through and I think it would work perfectly to exhaust the gases outside. Those heaters have fins which allow for more surface area to transfer the heat more effectively.
I haven’t read all the comments but the most effective way to recover heat from airflow (exhaust) is for the outside to be finned like an air cooled motor. This gives a much greater surface area to extract heat. Alternatively wrap copper tubing around the exhaust and run water through it to an automotive radiator with fan attached. Love your work, cheers.
Here in the mountains of Colorado it gets cold and our grid can be a little finicky when its really cold. I want one of these to save some money and be less reliant. Thanks for the video!
Hi, i use the 8kw, i only heve the exhaust outside. And i run on diesel. I have 50m2 to heat. I took the cover off so i can see clearly whan i need to fill it again. 2.5l per day. The heather has been on for weeks in a row and no problems, 22c, wonderful. I have not replaced the ful hoses eiter, but i have added a fuel filter. Nothing els. No maintenance nothing . For 3 years now. Great heater, nothing wrong with it. I like your videos fun and educational. Holland Ewald.
LMFAO. Your ending in the last 1 minute was great!! Keep up the good work!! If we get our house we're looking at, it will have an extended garage/workshop/utility room. I'll definitely get one of these to heat it up!
Hi Joshua, I have only just come across your channel and I'm pleased and impressed. Liked the camera, so I have just bought £203 including 'shipping'. It looks like a great product and will come in handy for late night pub brawls. Thanks
The Ulephone is out of stock on Amazon UK... 😮💨which is a pity as I would buy one right now! Love the content... I found your channel whilst researching diesel heaters for my boat.
I suspect that wet sand would have taken a lot of the energy out in the process of drying it before getting better results, I think it’s called evaporative cooling. I’m going to start playing around with sand batteries over winter to work out how we might utilise them in our place. Yes to self sufficiency! Looking forward to the steam turbine stuff :)
Don't forget usually in coldet temperatures the humidity is also lower. I'm not talking about the rain seasons like late spring or early fall. Just saying pretty much winter. The heat travels to colder areas. As the water evaporates if it is inside the heat will be there plus maybe needed humidity.
@@user-lz2bn6eo1j He’s in the Uk (where I’m from originally). I know what you mean but winters there are far from dry and never cold enough to lower humidity like it does here (for example).
that's probably why they mentioned pumping steam through the sand, I would guess that the water/steam stays somewhat pressurized in a closed loop, negating the problems of evaporation (it can be condensed at some other point and the latent heat recuperated through a heat exchanged or something, heat pump style)
A few counterpoint to your point about central energy production (without invalidating your points) 1. Those large power plants achieve much greater combustion efficiency. 2. Decent generating stations use their waste heat for district heating. 3. Transporting the heating oil takes fuel in itself. 4. Electricity generation is in the middle of a sea change: as the grid gets greener, so does energy used in your home. (Note: that's a point in favour of heat pumps and EVs, etc; not straight electric heating which is simply stupid, leading to the next point) 5. You can get 3 units of heat for 1 unit of electric energy using a heat pump. Works just as well with locally produced energy, mind you (solar, micro hydro). 6. Wood stove using sustainably sourced fuel, while inefficient, is fine in a truly off-grid application. It is not fine in suburban or dense residential areas: the exhaust particulates don't have enough free air mass to dilute to non-harmful levels. And we have too many people in the world for everybody to homestead. Same argument against heating oil, with the added issue of non-sustainably sourced resource use. Just information: Transformers are a small part of the grid losses, about twice as much as the losses in HV transmission lines. About half of the total losses is in the low voltage distribution (due to the higher current). HVDC lines are a solution for reducing losses in long backhauls, but the low voltage distribution system is probably here to stay for the foreseeable future. Total losses for the grid are about 5-6% in the US, China and EU average, 8% for UK (smaller grid, about average for the world) , up to tens of percents for small grids. Which could be argued to be another point in favor of centralized production, to a point. (data: World Bank indicator “EG.ELC.LOSS.ZS“)
Excellent video !! I like your approach ... you "get to it" !! Thorough, very thorough ! And yes , cross flow exchangers are more efficient. Someone might ask.. What is a "cross flow exchanger" cross flow exchanger is when one flow is going one way and the other flow going the opposite direction... AKA ... Cross flow heat exchanger. As you were ... be safe & have a great day ! PS: Good catch on the volatiles' coming off of the glues/adhesive.
You're a good person and innovative Joshua. Don't let the government, regardless of what side they're on, dictate to you what to do. It's not like you're building a nuclear power station in your house.
Please turn the fan around so it blows air into the duct. This brings the cooler room air in at the cooler end of the exhaust pipe and more total heat will be transferred. Also called a counter flow heat exchanger.
Alternatively, have the fan extracting at the hot end - although your idea keeps the fan cooler, thus extending its life due to the fan keeping cool while in use 🙂
All proper ideas having the fan pushing the air into the exchanger is the best and matching the air flow will help. Having fins to promote more exchange would help.
@@AscendedMaster11111after him will come next and next programmed „shadow” persons that will push plan forward with the accompaniment of useful idiots.
Good man! 1st video I've watched, but have subscribed. Im on oil central heating and have been swithering with changing to a Heat Pump as oil prices can spike quite high - especially during covid where it went from £500 to £1350 for 1000L tank. MWIll watch more of yor videos to see if there is a better aproach than going down the Heat Pump route, thanks
Love it. My unasked for two bits: A larger diameter exhaust pipe, to reduce flow restriction over longer lengths with some sort of addition to increase hot gas contact with heat transferring surfaces. Sand battery has a nice set of benefits for a shop such as yours for overall comfort and economy once you are managing the heaters on, off, and hz with an esp32 controller that knows when to expect you and when you are about to close up for the night.
Big diameter exhaust, less flow restriction **and** more time in the exhaust so more time for heat to be lost into the room. Perhaps use aluminum for the pipe as good heat conductor. Stainless steel not so good.
Excellent video again! Love your honesty. One observation is that kerosene & diesel are not the same thing ! Diesel has a higher energy density that kerosene, also is thicker in viscosity and higher boiling temperature. Therefore they are classed as heating oil #1(kerosene) diesel fuel oil, & #2 (diesel) diesel fuel oil or 28 second (for kerosene) & 35 second (diesel {red}) fuel oil. Referring to its Viscosity.
Yes. The good thing is that kerosene burns very clean and isn't affected by freezing temperatures so much like diesel is so an outside tank will be fine. However it's common for the diesel to gum up in trucks when the temperature drops. Cheers J
Love your content, your enthusiasm and energy. Very knowledgeable and informative. I no longer work due to my incapacity, mental illness. I love seeing things being made. I used to work in injection moulding, and tool making, got some understanding of some manufacturing process. Take care Joshua all the best to you and your family. Great content.
Just popping in to say I thoroughly enjoyed your video. The information presented and your stage presence was enough to keep one engaged without resorting to schtick. I was hoping for a waste oil furnace vid, but couldn’t click away!
Try adding larger bore lengths of pipe to the exhaust, only growing in size as you go a long the length. This will slow down the exhaust gas and give it more surface area to transfer the heat better. You can also use clean edged stuff to make the flow more laminar and help exhaust condensation flow out. I was hoping you were going to turn the oil drum into a sand battery. Ya big tease... Definitely looking forward to a video on used cooking oil filtering as I'm doing that myself. Used coffee grounds and coffee filters are my current secret sauce (along with sand).
The one issue with this is that you GREATLY reduce the amount of exhaust gasses that come into contact with the side walls of the exhaust gas exponentially as you make the pipe wider. That actually reduced the amount of thermal transfer you get.
Sand battery on the hot air output (not the exhaust) is a shout, just a case of working out what bore to make the coil through the sand to avoid excess back pressure.
@@Jonathan_Doe_ a sand battery on the output side would completely negate the point of him using a decent heater. He mentioned in the video that he has a wood heater, but he uses the diesel heater to heat up his shop quickly and have it warm when he gets out there . There . If you added a thermal battery to the outlet side that would increase the amount of time that it takes to heat up the shop in the morning.
Josh, only recently found and subscribed to your channel and as a retired engineer, I love it. ADDITIONALLY !! My three brothers (between them) have 7 sons and 3 daughters and all are being taught independence and self sufficiency. I have recommended your channel to them for obvious reasons but also due to the fact that you seem to be one of the very few on UA-cam that can complete a pod cast or for that matter even a sentence without having to insert an expletive. Thanks for all the useful information and a vocabulary that doesn’t sound like a “hood rat”.
You're a clever and innovative person Joshua. Don't let those in power, regardless of what side they're in, stop you from doing things like this. After all it's not like you want to build your
That fan is a very good way of extracting heat from that pipe. The only thing I can think of to get just a little more heat from that pipe is with heat exchange fins around the pipe to have a higher surface-to-air ratio. Just make sure that the fins run with the air flow and not parallel. You might need an extra fan doing that to get the needed airflow.
Completely agree about using wood burners, I've lived in boats, benders & on the road in various motors, always had a burner. However, you do need to be near a wood, getting enough wood for a day takes a lot of time & energy. Most folk however buy the stuff, & it ain't cheap, about £100+ for a "ton" bag. There are ways top get cheap wood, again, it takes time. Thanks for this video & all your time & effort.
For your air heat exchanger, run the air the other direction. Put the cooler air next to the cooler pipe. Your exhausted gasses will be cooler and you will scavenge more heat from the pipe.
@@joshuadelisleyes, as well as the efficiency improvement, as per my other comment a moment ago, it will improve the fan life because it will run cooler.
Oh, what is the outlet arrangement? If you haven't made another opening, make one at the end close to the burner. Make it quite small, so there is a positive pressure in the duct. It probably won't make a practical difference, but it might reduce the chance of exhaust leaks into your shed, because the pressure gradient will be slightly harder to overcome than just going out the silencer... With a computer fan the difference probably isn't enough to have a big impact though. But meh. Why not.
Im glad I found your channel. You're pursueing a number if things that I am wanting to heat my chicken coop with a Vivo and this is a great discovery for me. Also gotta have that Ulephone infra camera 😅 Im from Alaska and now down in the USA in NW mountains. Washington state.😮😮 I will be following your ventures. So far been very enlightening. Dandahermit
Quick note about fuel pumps.. - they should be mounted vertically due to their self-lubricating nature. 45 degrees is a compromise but horizontal is a bad idea. Air bubbles accumulate in the top of the pump and eventually the top side of the piston receives no lubrication.
As a suggestion, you could replace the exhaust pipe with a finned tube radiator. Due to the increased surface area you will extract much more heat. Also put the exhaust at an angle to make sure that any water can drip out and doesn't collect in the pipe when extracting the heat. BTW, I like the idea with the fan, but how about replacing it with a 230-volt fan? They are more powerful and, considering the losses in the power supply, probably more efficient than a 12-volt one.
I disagree with the use of AC mains fans, they are more expensive but less efficient than PC Fans. I run a temperature and humidity control for my inverters on 12V, the switch power supply is 98% efficient and the brushless DC Motors I guess 90%
DC Fans are much more efficient for same air flow, can run off battery in the event of a power failure and are highly controllable compared to most AC or shaded pole fans. You don't need super powerful fans, you need fans that can provide the airflow. There is a difference between airflow and "powerful". An 80% efficient power supply, which is well and truly within possibility even for cheap chineseum, will still be more efficient than a shaded pole AC fan.
Your sand battery is likely losing alot of retained heat into the exterior wall that its mounted to. Im of firm belief , … that it would be warmer if it was a couple inches off the wall. It would also retain the heat for a longer duration
I love it!!!! How about a wood burning stove with a back boiler that heats your radiators (will need a metal expansion tank and pump, no biggie). And the stick a flat plate heat exchanger in the loop so you can also switch your heating on using your combi boiler. Also stick a radiator on said loop in a metal cupboard with a extraction fan on top, to act as a drying rack!, to dry clothes and towels ect!!!! These are some of the amazing ideas I come up with and my adhd don’t ever let me complete!!!
I watched this video about 18 months ago, forgot all about it, then something reminded me of the subject matter. Anyway, put it into YT search and you came up again. I'd previously looked at prices and though they were circa £100-£120, didn't want to spend that. Looked on A again and £68, be here tomorrow. Should help heat the garage!
I stayed , almost transfixed by your antics. Strangely I managed to keep up with what you were showing us. I wish you had been my science teacher . Explaining subjects clearly, the way you do. Involves understanding, belief and honesty. Qualities few people hold. WELL DONE.
Just a side note. The sand battery would help maintain a longer heating period which should require less time overall to reach a better working temp on the next startup. Also the sand looked wet ! Dry sand is better which would be achieved with longer run times as the continued heat slowly removes all the moisture. The test should have really been over a couple of weeks and used sand that had been sieved / graded. As for using a radiator (yes that again LOL) The same thing but using a closed loop and small 12 volt pump to circulate the water. Water head should be taken into account based on the head flow of any pump. As an avid "upcycler" myself I use the exhaust from the house ran through a 6 inch sewer pipe just 2 foot under the ground across to my garage. Currently don't filter that air as there are enough air leaks to remove almost all the harmful effects to an acceptable level. Here in Canada I often see as low as minus 40 on some days in winter which had made the garage unusable. Now I have enough heat to be able to use it most days for a period of time. It also helps prevent such as latex paints from going off due to extreme cold. Yes I need to improve it so this vid gave me some more ideas.
Thanks for the great video! When talking about percentages of heat captured, you have to be careful when using non absolute units of temperature, such as °C and °F. Direct percentage calculations don't actually make sense for these units, and you will get different results for °C and °F, since the scales have different zero points. For example, (198°C - 56°C)/198°C = 72%, but (388.4°F-132.8°F)/388.4°F = 66%. If you want to divide by an absolute temperature, you need to use the Kelvin scale to get the absolute percentage of energy captured, but this is not exactly useful either, since a 100% efficiency would mean that you are able to cool the exhaust down to absolute zero (requires a heat pump, and of course one with that kind of efficiency does not exist). With Celsius and Fahrenheit scales, however, you can still talk about and divide by differences in temperatures, so a more useful notion might be to take a target temperature for the room, and set that as the reference for the optimal 100% efficiency exhaust temperature, as this is the best efficiency you can achieve without heat pumps. Take, say, 20°C = 68°F as the target. Now we get (198°C - 56°C)/(198°C - 20°C) = 80%, and as a sanity check, (388.4°F-132.8°F)/(388.4°F - 68°F) = 80%. Here it's also good to note, that temperature is not the same as heat energy. The rate of heat energy given out by a surface at temperature T_1 in a room at temperature T_2 is proportional to the surface area of the surface as well as the temperature difference T_1 - T_2. Since this is a direct proportionality with respect to temperature, you can use the temperature in many proportionality (percentage) calculations, but need to be a bit careful. Also the amount of heat energy stored in a substance is directly proportional to the temperature of the substance, meaning that with the sand battery, when it is initially warming up, it does not give out as much heat (power) as the air one, but once its temperature has settled (no longer rising), the amount of energy stored in the sand is constant, and it is giving out heat at the same rate it's pulling it from the exhaust. The surface temperature of the sand battery will be much lower than that of the exhaust pipe, since the surface area is much larger. I think your method of comparing the difference of exhaust temperatures at the beginning and in the end of the pipe is maybe more useful than comparing the temperatures of the radiator vs the pipe vs the air blown by the computer fan (and seems you thought the same).
Hello from across the pond. Have a diesel heater in my 6x10 cargo conversion. Works fantastic albeit I let the exhaust OUTSIDE to heat the forrest for the animals who might be cold...Love you channel and this video which I may have already commented on...ok keep em comming !!!
@@jimnjele.bean-dayone3505 thank you so much. I'm hoping to do another follow up on my diesel heater with a water cooled exhaust which circulates to a hot water tank. Cheers J
A massive safety aspect you missed on the Hicalory heater. The power adapter mains lead may not have a fuse, but it does have a plug where the Earth pin is - wrongly - sheathed. Chinese factories do get confused about the function of the Earth in a mains plug. The Earth pin should be the first pin to make contact and the last to disconnect: hence it being the longest pin. That way you are protected for the longest time. Similarly, the Earth wire inside the plug should have the longest length of 'slack' wire so that if the wires work loose, the Earth will still be connected - and the user protected - even if Live and Neutral wires break free. It's the Earth pin that pushes the safety shutters aside in the mains socket, so that the Earth pin connects first and disconnects last to the Earth contacts immediately inside the socket. Whereas the Live and Neutral contacts are recessed deeper inside. With the Earth pin sheathed, the Earth will be insulated as the Earth pin cannot touch the socket's Earth contacts - the device will not be Earthed... Perhaps you might like to notify H M Customs and the retailer about the seriousness of that anomaly.
Perhaps Hcal should make the Earth pin all-plastic. The power supply brick label indicates that it is double-insulated, so should not be earthed. ( Going by general standards, the label is probably decorative )
It isn't that they should make it plastic, it's having the isolation on a metal Earth pin in the first place. This device is metal cased and therefore needs an Eatth. The problem is that they are confused why there is shielding there in the first place.
I really like how you're relentless in your projects! your exhausts from the heater on the external wall you can put a thin layer a foam insulation to keep it from leaching heat outside. And put a couple of stove heaters on it That use thermal induction you would need no electricity. Love your projects buddy. Good luck
Sand battery benefits come from the ability to be heated up to hundreds of degrees of C without building up pressure or boiling. High temperature difference from the source to the storage -> high heat flow -> effective heat transfer from high temperature storage. I think the system designed in Finland uses cheap hours of electric grid to "fill up", then provides hot water from the heat storage - no idea what kind of heat exchanger they have to avoid overheating the water.
A friend of mine has got the same banned model and he received an email from his supplier to say that it must be disposed of or destroyed, not because there was anything wrong with it, but because the user guide specifically didn't contain a particular warning phrase.
@@joshuadelisle If the government have their hands in it you can safely assume boots are being filled and as an added benefit the whole thing is handled as incompetently as possible.
Running the exhaust through an aftermarket automobile catalytic converter may just be worth exploring. They are stainless steel to resist the acid formed in the condensing gas and many have a heat shield on one side that would provide some mounting options. In addition, I believe that rather than just recovering "waste" heat, the catalyst drives an exothermic reaction, especially the second generation convertors that have a port to admit extra air for driving the reaction. The extra air could be provided from outside. This setup could provide a radiant heat component to the whole rig...heat you can feel. True, the after-market catalytic converters run about what the diesel heater does, but it will probably outlast the heater and may very well pay for itself in a season with the extra heat generated.
The issue with adding a catalytic converter is exhaust back pressure. It will bugger the efficiency of the engine without retuning it. I'd recommend not slapping one on.
@@joshuadelisle Brazing or soldering would work well. They could either be made as discs (donuts) and slid on from one end, or as half-donuts so they can be slid on across the pipe. The final effect would look like the cooling fins on a Nambu type 99 machine gun, but maybe not so close together. If they are a close fit, they don't even need the soldering - just be tight enough to be in contact with the tube. If slid on slightly loose, then you could put a small kink in each disc so it deforms and grips the tube.
Great idea, perhaps 1 or more radiant fin tube copper hydronic piping, with condensate recovery. Obviously fin tube diameter would need to be sized to meet exhaust requirements. An industrial SS fin tube would be ideal. Nice job editing btw. Political bent A+
next time at the heating supply store, look at a hot water baseboard radiator.. similar idea... exhaust gas is hot, that heat radiates to the room via fins that surround it.... as the temp goes down in the exhaust from this radiation, problems may arise in the efficiency of getting the poisenous gasses to flow to the outside.... buildup in the pipe might be an issue. Just sposing, I don't know, I am a locksmith, not an HVAC Tech ! Maybe ASK an expert...... that would actually make a good video #3, and fill your bank at the same time.... kaching plus entertainment! Can not throw a rock at that!
Slightly off topic but completely on topic, 😊, all that heat we are generating from whatever contraption we have installed…. Most of it is getting trapped at ceiling level and we don’t normally reside at ceiling level. Simple bit of 3” downpipe and a pc fan at the bottom with the top of the downpipe at the highest point would drag all that lovely warm air back down to feet level? Would make an interesting episode on how much difference that makes to overall workshop heating? Would the heat be worth the extra draft created?
Really informative and helpfull video! Insulate your door with just reflective padded foil will help reducing heat loss dramatically and is easy and cheap to do. The next step would be to replace the door with one that has a seperat entrance door(and while you;re at it, that door can be the 40mm insulated one )
Thank you. I might build a porch at the side with a two door system so I can close one behind me. I need the two large garage doors for the large projects I do now and again. Some lengths of steel are over 8m so I pass it through the workshop. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I Can't believe you have not insulated the doors: They are a huge cold radiator, probably more than 50 sq ft. I obtained a load of fruit and veg boxes made of polystyrene from my local greengrocer and cut the base, sides and lids to make flat panels about 1/2" thick to cover my double garage door and it has made an amazing difference. When you touch it now it feels warm. I replaced the roof with insulated corrugated steel sheets as well.
One thing that sadly might be wrong here is the direction of your fan. You moved the air from hot to cold which could result in the cold side getting hotter and the hot side getting colder. You want a gradual increase in temperature so move the colder air over the colder area and gradually increase it by moving to a hotter and hotter area. This greatly increases efficiency. In chemistry you always have the cold water at the bottom of the condenser and the water flows from bottom to top where the hot product comes from the top to the bottom. My teacher hammered that in. That said its air... air isn't the best way to remove or add heat. You need a massive amount of surface area. For example my radiator at home I have 7 2000 rpm 14CM fans running full speed when the temperature rises above 25 celcius. It takes 15 minutes for it to cool down the water below 25c when its just sitting there so after I turned off the knob. That is really inefficient and I am in need of a better solution. Perhaps just reducing the flow rate.
I like a few of the ideas that have popped up in the comments. Particularly reversing the fan. I would be wary of making a more efficient radiator unless you have a way of stopping deposits from forming inside the exhaust section when the temperature is lowered too far. Also, I see that a sand battery would be good in an area where you need continued heating when the heater is off e.g. sleeping areas. So you can turn off the engine to sleep in the quiet, while retaining the continued heating ability of the sand. An air or liquid radiator is ideal when you need to use an area, and then leave e.g. a workspace, like a converted garage. As much of the heat as possible is used to heat the air while you are there. Then when you leave the area, there is no residual heat stored in the sand that would be wasted while you are not there.
I have had a Ulefone armor 11 for 3 years. I love it. Super Tough. As a mechanic it has no problem with oil, coolant or metal dust sticking too the speaker. Good camera too.
A diesel car EGR cooler is a good exhaust to water heat exchanger if you are looking to heat water with the exhaust heat. Ford Galaxy and Peugeot 2.0 HDI ones have been recommended by others as the connectors are close to the diesel heater exhaust diameter. Most people in the UK who are "on grid" won't be able to store more than 200l of heating oil without notifying the building control of their local authority. You're likely exempt as your home is heated by heating oil.
Thermoking makes a semi Trailer heater called a heat king. The muffler for the little yanmar or whatever it is diesel engine had an integral air water heat exchanger in it and it was pretty narrow diameter exhaust.
People have suffocated in tents from burning things in there and going to sleep. People think the government will protect them from all danger and the doctors will cure it all.
@@Kasperbjerby not saying that. Some people are super use to electric heaters, so I can understand how someone may forget to route the exhaust outside. Just like how someone who has driven Tesla all their lives may forget a gas vehicle should not run inside a garage or forget to turn it off. It’s happened before, it’s just not accustom to them.
Your air heat exchanger setup will have higher efficiency over time. As storage heats up the smaller temp drop means it captures less heat. Look forward to seeing your wood heater experiments.
based on that "logic", since people have comitted suicide by having their car running in a closed garage, the government _should_ ban petrol and diesel cars too!!! 🙄
And using to most fragile part of it as well, the screen. Would have used the side or the back, there is clearly damage to the LCD even if the glass isn't cracked.
I just come across your channel & it is funny to me that you have put so much time & effort into heating. I live in the far north of Western Australia, in a very hot environment & the very last thing that I ever think about is heating anything. Although, I do often think about how to cool things down.
I think the most efficient way of getting heat out of the exhaust would be to essentially submerge the tube in a water or antifreeze bath and then have a pump running to circulate the liquid through a radiator and then a fan to disperse the heat.
really interesting to hear your closing thoughts about burning wood etc. Agree with the "they dont lke us getting free stuff" idea. I've got PV, batteries & an ASHP. Pay for themselves in 5.5 years and after that free. I wanted to buy something that would eventually provide free energy rather that keep paying the energy companies for something thats burnt in an instant and needed to be bought continually. Good luck with the wood and diesel.
I got the same, then in the first year, leftwingers began trying to brutally slash the delivery compensation for my PV power. So in the summer I have to give it away for free and in the winter I can pay through my teeth despite my investment. The only thing keeping the compensation around is the current political chaos, and even then the payment got halved for my supplier (I was a first adopter of a new power company in 2008, still carry the perks after they were bought out) and cut by 7/8ths for most suppliers. They want us to stop burning gas, oil, wood etc, but they're doing an excellent job at deterring people from actually going there.
Interesting. With the sand, you sort of created a diesel/kerosene powered storage heater. Makes a lot of sense from when electricity is the only option. Installed a set of Quantum heaters last year and while they are light years better than old style storage heaters, that's basically what they are, just with far better insulation and fans. But, it's nice having warmth. If you go down the WVO path, it might be worth turning it into proper biodiesel. Not for the cost, but just to see how well it works in the heater.
The commercial solar power plants use molten Sulphur as the heat storage medium to continue to generate steam after sundown. Sulphur is probably not a friendly medium in a shop shed, but the experiment would be interesting
For WVO processing, (if you can weld) make a centrifugal particulate filter. Parts you will need? Angle grinder, a steel coupler from a resin disc grinder attachment. 12in x 1.5in round cake pan. 1 stainless steel round cake pan 11in x 2in. One stainless steel stock pot lid at least for an 11 inch pot. One blue barrel or container of your choice. Remove the plastic coupler on the resin disc sanding attachment. Find the center of the cake pan cut a hole big enough to accept the shaft of the angle grinder and attachment. Find center on your stock pot lid and cut out a 5 and 1/2 inch circle. Next, measure 1 inch from the lip you just cut and drill 8 x 1/4in holes that are equal distance apart from each other and centered. Take your stainless steel cake pan and TIG weld the lid to the pan. Now find the center of the bottom of your 11 inch cake pan. Take your coupler drill four holes, place it on you're 11 in cake pan and mark the holes. Try to make sure that they are centered I cannot stress that enough. Drill the four holes into the cake pan and both the coupler to the cake pan. Make sure you use nyloc nuts and lock washers. Now one half inch in from those holes that you just drilled, drill 4 1/2in holes that are also centered and on the opposite axis of the ones that you just thrilled. Now attach it to the grinder remove any excess material from your welds. Turn it on and off quickly and make sure that you balance it with the grinder head facing up with the pan attached to it. You can epoxy a weight of your choice on the inside. On the 12-inch cake pan, as close to the bottom edge as you can, install a drain port that you can attach a drain hose to.. Around the outside diameter. Cut the bottom off of a blue barrel or container of your choice so long as the sides are big enough to accommodate the 12 inch cake pan (greater than 14 in). Now here's the part I can't help you out with, you will have to figure it out according to what grinder you using but all grinders have two screw holes on the side. You will need to fabricate some kind of Mount to the grinder and to the 12-in pan so that it does not come in contact with the 11 in pan while it is in motion. This will also give you a fixed point to attach it inside your container. You're going to have to fabercoble whatever for your setup. Put a drain hole in the bottom of your container. This whole contraption will need to be off the floor as it relies on gravity to work. Once you get your grinder brace figured out for your container, attach the grinder, attach the 12 inch pan to the brace. Attach the coupler to the bottom of the 11 inch pan. Attach the pan and coupler, and set it inside the 12 inch cake pan and to the grinder. ***With the grinder unplugged, turn the power to the on locked position. Okay how it works. You do your preliminary sock filter in slightly warm wvo to remove the large particulates. Now you have your WVO that is dirty with carbon and smaller particulates. This material goes into a jug placed in the elevated position relative to the top of your centrifuge. A siphoned hose with a valve from this will be placed so that it will drizzle into the center of the centrifuge. The drain from the 12-inch cake pan will go into a dirty oil jug outside of the container. The drain at the bottom is where you collect your clean wvo. Plug your grinder into a power strip with a switch making sure that the switch is in the off position. Start your oil flow, and turn on the power strip switch. Once the spinning cake pan fills up, the access will come out of the holes and be flung against the container, this is similar to a gravitron at the fair. Particulates have a higher mass than the oil. They will be pulled to the ring running around the pan. The clean oil will float to the top where will spill out of the holes and be flung against the container. This will be collected at the bottom and out of a hose drain system that you attached. That will go into a clean jug... As far as clean up? You will know when the centrifuge is full when it is no longer clean oil being flung against the sides. Periodically you can avoid this by turning off the centrifuse via the power strip and as it slows down, it will settle and drain in the four other holes that you drilled into the 12-inch cake pan where can be collected in recycled. This is a basic welding project. If you are not good at fabricating, do not do this. You also need to make a shield for the grinder, this will attach do the same brace that holds the grinder in the container. It doesn't have to be elaborate it just has to be a basic umbrella. If you try to make this and you don't have it balanced or centered given the speeds that it is spinning it can cause some serious damage both to what you made and to you. I did not go into heavy detail, you can adjust the measurements, you can adjust the materials, I would recommend a safety lid on the container... But the thing is if you make this you don't have to worry about buying filter material which if you were using wvo can be very expensive overtime. I made this 25 years ago. Things that I did different than what I explained? I added a steel plate under my 11 inch pan. This was strictly for Mass and stability. I made sure it was perfectly round imperfectly balanced. It's really hard to balance stainless steel cookware because it doesn't weigh that much. I think the steal was 3/16 thick. Play what's thicker than sheet metal but not like plate steel. I made this and mounted it in the back of a bus. I also made a wand attached to a pump, heated by jacket water to quickly and discreetly suck oil out of waste oil bins. I would not recommend putting this on a bus like I did because eventually that's where it met its demise. It was full of junk wasn't secured, it threw off the balance and the centrifuge bound to the drain pan underneath and cooked the grinder. Shortly thereafter in a undisclosed mountainous area of Colorado I refer to as hell... You might refer to it as Vail, my torque converter went out. While there are many mechanic shops there. Not a single one was large enough to accept a bus. I ended up having to junk my bus because I was in the middle of a move to Chicago money was tight, a wrecker big enough to handle my bus the closest one was Denver and that's 2 1/2 hours away, and the cheapest quote I could get was $3500. I had about 5k to my name, still had to pay for first and last month when I got there... The tow company said that they would do it for 2k if I signed the title over. It only took me 6 months to convert it into an RV. 2 weeks to design the centrifuge and wvo processing station in the back including routing the coolant lines to the back to heat the oil and the wvo tank that was routed in line with the solenoid switches...blah, blah, blah... All of it for nothing. But I did learn an awful lot on that project and I applied in many aspects after that. I hope you at least get the basic concept if you plan on doing this it will save you a shitload of money spent on filters. And after it goes through this, you could run through a one micron filter and I would be surprised if you found anything. Not to mention if you did want to run it through that one micron filter it would probably last you better of course of a year before you'd have to replace as opposed to once every batch. Good luck on the free heat 😁👍🏼
I grew up with wood stoves, last winter I went camping with a titanium tent stove and it brought back a lot of memories... however, having not been around one for 30 years or so, it was really driven home how bad it really is for us, and things that I never noticed when I was a kid we were really obvious, such as the smoke scent that inundated everything that I was wearing, which was not nearly as pleasant as it was as it was burning. kind of similar to how when I was a kid I never noticed the way smokers and smokers houses and cars smelled, but now with smoking being banned everywhere public, the smell is really nasty when I encounter it, and if I have to ride in a car of somebody who smokes, even if they didn't smoke while I was in the car, that smell just clings to the entire interior, which because I was sitting on is also clinging to my clothes.
Yes those stoves aren't very efficient and so you get a lot of un combusted gases escaping. The type of wood makes a difference too, resinous pine is not a great after smell but apple wood has a really pleasant odar when burnt. Most stoves by law are fitted with a secondary burn for maximum efficiency. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleThe latest wood burning stoves produce huge amounts of particulate pollution. When they are warming up they can produce over 7000 times the particulate pollution of their lab rating. In "real world testing" using best practice, wood burning stoves had pollution levels many times higher than their lab ratings. I live in a Smokeless Zone with 2 wood burning stoves opposite. My particulate monitor regularly reads SEVERELY POLLUTED with pm 2.5 levels over 300 microgrammes / cubic metre. Wood smoke is loaded with carcinogens. Worse than cigarette smoke.
@@colintinker7778Yes people that use wood burning stoves are extremely selfish, our neighbourhood stinks all winter, we have to basically seal ourselves in our home, no fresh air. I think we are going back to Victorian times, one small consolation is that fire requires air so some of their pollution is slowly poisoning themselves and children as well!
@@colintinker7778 Lots of people have no idea how to burn them clean. My mother's chimney exhaust is unnoticeable (she has asthma herself) while our neighbors sometimes smoke up the whole neighborhood.
@@downstream0114 You're right about people not knowing how to operate fires. Of the two log burners opposite us, the newest one has the blackest flue. The smoke from it flows down the roof and along the road. This is in a "smokeless zone". Both log burners stink out the whole area when lit... even with no visible smoke.
Your exhaust pipe should have been a "finned pipe" where the fins radiate the heat better from the exhaust port heat pipe, but then you may need more fans to extract the heat into the room.
Honestly, if he could find an old radiator (ones that have metal caps rather than plastic) that'd be the best bang for his buck. And replacing the drain bung with a small leg and an auto drain (the kinds you can find on separators on air pressure regulators) would deal with the condensate.
Just a note on efficiency. If you try to recover too much heat from the exhaust you will drop the temperature below the dew point of the fuel. This will cause a build up of soot like deposits in the exhaust. In time this build up will reduce the ability of the unit to clear the exhaust resulting in poor combustion within the burner and a serious reduction in efficiency. So, to be efficient and safe check the dew point temperature of the fuel you use and allow an extra 10% margin and this figure should be the temperature of the flue gas leaving the exhaust pipe. Your system will then be operating at 100% design efficiency.
Really interesting as usual. Ive just installed 2 im my garage but the exhaust goes into a vehicle intercooler then out via a 2" exhaust for over a metre through a shed, all to reduce back pressure. The Intercooler gets exceedingly hot and exhaust is cool. Need to add different fans as computer fans I had lying around didn't shift enough air through the cooler. Also I thought I read somewhere not to use kerosene as it wasn't good for the burner. However you have busted that myth and I have an abundance of heating oil. Thanks for all the good info in all your videos-
Thank you. Kerosene doesn't have lubricant additives so it's not ideal for the pump which will eventually wear out. But considering they're cheap to replace and last at least a few years I don't see an issue especially when Kerosene is cheaper for me to buy. Cheers J
I'd guess one way to improve the heater is to add CO/CO2 detection to the control circuit, and have an excessive level as a fault condition for a safety shut-off. Not sure if that kind of thing would be required by regulation (at least on anything considered indoor heating), but maybe that's a reason why the gov't doesn't like Chinese imports? However I'm not sure if the part that controls operation could be swapped out easily, so that may be a thing that would eventually be added to newer models?
My advice is to use a bigger exhaust 2m tube instead of that one, because there's too much resistance for the exaust fumes to go out and the combustion will be affected (so you have particulate and other stuff in the reading). I have a BIG aluminium extensible pipe connected to the short exaust of the heater and there's no problem at all, it's a 10cm diameter pipe. I bet using a solid steel pipe can also share more heat for that computer fan, and the combustion will surely be better because of no constrictions in the exaust going out... LOVE your videos! Greetings from Sicilia, Italy!
It's all bottlenecked by the size of the exhaust ports on the motor. I imagine that thing isn't creating the highest pressures to begin with. And a heavy wall steel tube would act like too much of a sink. Something with a better transfer like copper and thin walls would allow him to extract more heat from the exhaust. What he should do is see if he can source an old copper or aluminum radiator (I say old implying ones with metal caps instead of plastic). Set up correctly he could also replace the drain bung with a small drip leg fitted with an auto drain at the end (the kind you can find in separator bowls for air regulators) (to deal with the condensate).
@@ObservationofLimitsCorrect about the size of the exhaust port, but the shape of the exhaust pipe creates a lot of turbolence and this impact the overall performance of the system :) He need a bigger exhaust pipe.
try having the air cooling in a counter flow configuration. you should extract more heat that way. all of the most efficient heat exchange systems use counter flow in one way or another edit: seems im not the only person to suggest this 😅
@@joshuadelisle Here's the reason behind counterflow being more effective: When heating or cooling something, the transfer of heat depends on the temperature difference. The more heat in the heat source, the quicker it will flow to what is being heated. think of it like a trough with a dam in the middle. the dam is the ambient temperature, and the water level being held back is the heat source temperature. the higher the water is above the top of the dam, the more water can flow. by having the exhaust going one way and having the exhaust cooling (heat exchanger air, whatever ya wanna call it) going backwards relevant to that, you're putting the coldest exchanger air at the coldest part of the heat source. This increases the temperature difference between the two so you'll pull more heat out of the cold end. since the temperature gradient of the exhaust pipe gets hotter the closer you get to the heat source, you may be decreasing the gradient at the hot end a little, but you more than make up for it by increasing the difference at the cold end. another thing that can help this is by piping the intake end of the heat exchanger so it pulls air from near the floor rather than 1/3 up the wall. air by the floor will be the coldest after all. In fact, you may even be able to get away without the fan if you did so as the warmer air will rise and pull colder air in so long as you have enough of a height difference between the in and out (less noisy, no need to power it, etc.). other things that can help this: using a high temp thermal glue to couple some strips of sheet metal to the exhaust tube, wrapping the exhaust tube with a bunch of wire with 2-3 inch ends sticking off it can have a similar effect. surface area is key to improving heat transfer as the air has to contact the hot bit to pull heat out. One more thing i just thought of is to try coiling the exhaust tube so that you essentially make a coil spring shape out of it with a few inches between the coils. I don't know if this would improve efficiency, but it could allow you to fit the same (or more) exhaust tube in a heat exhanger half the length.
Given the condensation problems with the exhaust, I think coils would trap condensate. But a slight decline in the run of the exhaust would likely be good for both issues. Make the outlet lower than the heater so the condensate runs downhill and the air in the tunnel will naturally flow uphill.
@@ppokorny99 Rotate it 90 degrees so the outlet is on the bottom and the inlet on the top for the exhaust tube. Hell, in a vertical configuration it'll pull its own draft so you won't need a fan. so long as the hot end of the exhaust is the top you've probably got the best way to set this up. Depending on how crafty you want to be with it, i can see an exhaust line coiled up in a piece of round air duct with a cap on both ends. have the coil offset from the walls, and a few tubes running the length of it inside the middle of the coil. fill the deadspace with sand or water and you have a heat battery. I think the main flaw of the sand test in this video is that the whole thing is so long. you're not concentrating the heat in the sand, you're just using the sand as a mid stage between the room and the pipe. by packing it all into a smaller space, and swapping to a vertical setup, it'll allow the system to create a draft to more effectively dump that heat back into the room when the heater itself isn't running. After all, in the end we're trying to keep the heat in the room. Heat batteries improve efficiency by keeping the heat around and releasing it over time, leading to the heater needing to be run less. I bet with the right setup reclaiming the exhaust heat like this would probably improve the overall system efficiency by quite a bit.
Man, this video is awesome, you are excellent! I have just one suggestion to you: reverse direction of fan to blow air inside housing, and air must go out closest to the heater. This way is more effective (counter-current exchanger).
Well said at the end! Our country is becoming a joke, you can't even fish, hunt, live off the land like a hermit without huge costs. I think its rather sad that someone if they choose to can't live truly free in a shack some place or even do it recreationally from time to time without mega amounts of money. I know we only have so much land and resources but i feel not many would truly want to live and do this kinda of stuff anyway. People dont like effort these days and getting stuck in. Things like fishing, burning own wood, heck even using the river (seriously look up boat rules and licences) are good examples of how bad things are.
Yet to do those things is the most green thing you can do to help the environment yet we're not allowed. If it doesn't make sense foul play is at the heart. Cheers J
Canoes don't require a license, along with a gas tank and a Briggs and Stratton motor with an propeller shaft. However, I do fully understand what your saying. Plus you can't fit a family of 4 on a single canoe along with all your supplies, survival gear and clothes.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I hope this video was helpful and here are some key feedback comments so far:
They may not allow delivery of kerosene without an 'approved' tank.
Reversing the direction of the air blower mod may give better results to improve efficiency.
The heater was held at customs because of poor instructions which could cause someone to use it dangerously. The heater itself is fine.
I'm looking forward to hearing your other thoughts on the subject and any ideas for future videos. Here are some links but there is also more in the description. Cheers J
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The 'Covertment' has 'band' it because it's efficient... that's the real reason !
the tough phones are already unavailable :(
Old denim jeans are a really great waste vege oil filter. Google it 👍😁
Here's another idea for (supplimental) heating: did you know that composting is exothermic--i.e. produces heat? Up to 70C at times. It occurred to me that if you buried a car radiator (or two or three) in a compost pile--mostly wood waste, as that takes the longest to break down, but any proper ratio of 'greens' to 'browns' would do--and pumped water through it to a second radiator set up with a fan in your shop, that would offset at least some of the fuel you would need to burn. If you look up 'Jean Pain compost heating', you'll find a *LOT* of info on what it is all about, including how to harvest the methane that composting produces as yet another energy source.
Cheers!
26:40 you can't talk about temperature in %, because the temperature scale is a relative scale, 0C is actually 273.15K. do the math again in K and you get another % value. or do it in F and get another %. so just never talk about % when you talk temperatures. its not applicable so its wrong. you should talk temperature difference instead in degrees.
The last two minutes summarizing the stupidity and irony of the modern world is just brilliant. Common sense and practical knowledge from a great man. Well done my friend
You're very kind. I'm not always right so it's good to debate and research these things and not just nod with what's put in front of us. Cheers J
Last two mins were absolutely mint - and true... sadly!
𝙵𝚞𝚗𝚔𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚐𝚘𝚟 𝚑𝚊𝚗𝚐𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚕𝚘𝚝
Rememeber common sense is not so common any more
I’ve been heat dependent on a wood burner for the last 7 yrs. £0 for the wood, and £0 spent on gas. £0 VAT for HMRC 💪🖕
I'm off-grid here in Finland. I provide my own power: in summer this is easy, solar. In winter, heating is done with wood - with a very efficient wood gasification boiler. Power in winter is generated with a diesel generator running on biodiesel I make in summer from waste vegetable oil. Using wood is very common here, especially in the countryside. It's the cheapest fuel for this, and readily available everywhere. I produce mine (cut and split with electrical tools when I have excess solar power) from my own forest, turning a tree farm into a diverse forest.
You're living the dream. Well done. Cheers J
Far as i understand in Finland waste vegetable oil is classed as dangerous waste and cannot legally be given to anyone except for kemira or other official recycling company glamorate.. that then burns it to produce power and heat, while charging the restaurant owner recycling fee... I presume you know some restaurant owner that didnt mind giving you it trough back door, or are you using that much vegetable oil that you can run it trough generator??
@@Hellsong89 It's even allowed (in home use) to put it into plastic containers and put in mixed waste, and some wholesalers have cooking oil reception points. It's not very difficult to get hold of, and it's not like I need a lot of it: 100L goes a long way (only needed in November, December and January).
What about using wvo in central heating oil burner ? Im about to purchase central oil burner soon. I have already colected 2t of wvo:)
@@kaidokivitoa9127 Likely works fine (like this Diesel heater does) - it's just easier for me to use wood as primary heating solution an WVO for electricity. Wood is just easier to deal with and abundant in my case.
Absolutely loved your closing comments on this one. They don't want you to have it if they can't tax it! Write it in gold!
Thank you. Lots more scepticism coming soon. Cheers J
Masterful closing comments for sure and what you said should ring in everyone's ears. Its about control and taxes nothing more
With age and life experience comes cynicism, your bang right with your comment.
From the US it is nice to hear people say this stuff over seas too!
Well, the UK is already gone. Biggest nanny state in all of Europe. Only Russia is more authoritarian.
When you run the exhaust through a radiator to super-cool it and pull more heat out of it the condensed liquid it produces has a very high probability of becoming acidic, so you may want to keep an eye on the radiator you've added for rusting out faster than expected.
Indeed, it is easier to heat a medium from low to high, to gradually heat it up, if you start at the hot side it heats up fast but then can't heat anymore because the air is already hotter than the exhaust. Also the flow needs to be higher than the flow of the exhaust, it would be fun to see the flows on that.
Yes. Might want to opt for an aluminium radiator since aluminium is more resistant to acid corrosion vise. Just dont get salt water on it; aluminium hate that
what the aluminum do with the salty water?@@RealGengarTV
@@youvebeenspooked i don't know.. it's just salty
@@RealGengarTV I would have suggested Zinc Chromate coating to the radiator but upon closer look, it wouldn't be a good idea since it emits toxic chromium fumes upon heating.
I'm still rocking a flip phone here in the states.My boss has the 'Cat' smartphone and it's a tank,watching you pound nails with the screen on that thing was the coolest thing I've seen in a tick!!
It's a pretty awesome phone. Definitely my favorite I've ever owned. Cheers J
Just thought that I would mention the exhaust angle, if anybody is looking at harvesting the heat from it. Whether using water, air, sand or whatever medium to extract the heat from the exhaust (which is a great idea)….. the water vapour within the exhaust gases will always condense inside the exhaust pipe. Therefore, it’s best to keep the exhaust pipe at a continuous downward angle, so that the water can escape….. outside, ideally.
Also, maybe have a look for a smooth pipe oppose to the ribbed one that comes as standard. If you used some stainless plumbing pipe and fittings….. it will last forever!!
Thanks for the videos, Joshua. Always engaging, interesting, and love the humour 🤪.
Very good points. Cheers J
In corrugated exhaust pipe at any angle there are always pockets for water to collect. It is constantly evaporating/vaporizing as more is condensing, in a process that turns gas to liquid to vapour in the exhaust. Even once shutdown, the pipe being 80°C will speed up evaporation of all of the carbonic acid, eventually. Its deliberately a large surface area/volume ratio. If you use a smooth pipe you do maximize the output of carbonic acid, but to paraphrase Dr Ian Malcolm "we were so busy asking whether or not we could, we forgot to ask ourselves if we should"
I wouldn’t let that water get outside, it’s going to be contaminated.
Make the exhaust, going down, and if you do use the barrel for hot water, have the pipe continue downward, then up and out.
At the bottom of the dip, put a tee pointed down to a small tank, with the opening of the pipe near the bottom. Put a float valve into the tank, and place it so there is always a few centimeters of water in the tank.
That will keep exhaust from escaping through the tank.
The float should activate a small pump that would go to the sewer when it gets full enough.
The wastewater treatment plant can handle that stuff a whole lot better than your lawn or anywhere else that stuff would run, such as a stream or river.
If you want to extract more heat into the water in your tank, put a finned pipe inside the tank for better heat extraction.
BYW, put a vent on your heat tube close to the burner end, and turn the fan around to blow the air in, rather than pulling it out.
It’ll make for better heat coming out of the heat tube, and it won’t be warming the exhaust pipe on its way out.
It’s rather like the way modern furnaces work, by getting the most heat out of whatever you are pulling heat from.
Not only the condense water have to go “down stream”, the material holding/transporting it have to be resistant to corrosion in the long term.
The exhaust gas condensate is rather acidic so it is hard on many materials that's what we found out around here with the condensing fuel oil furnaces it was actually rotting out the heat exchangers but they were considerably thinner and cheaper than the ones these are using
This was one of the most superb, well articulated videos I’ve seen yet on the heaters. Flipping awesome!!! Absolutely brilliant - he’s like the Colin furze of keeping us warm!
Thank you so much. Hopefully I'll show you how to get electricity for cheap next. Cheers J
You should have that little fan blowing in instead of sucking out. When trying to exchange heat in that way, it's best to have the two medias (exhaust gas, and cooling air) going opposite directions. Also, not sure if you have already or not, but make sure your long run of exhaust has a slope out so the moisture condensing will run out instead of staying in there.
And blowing the air instead of sucking it will create turbulent flow instead of linear which should be more effective.
And the poor little fan will run cooler and probably last longer
Carbon monoxide floats in air while carbon dioxide sinks. Idk if sloping it in either direction is safe... but then again, it is forced air.
if I had to choose though, I'd slope it downwards from the source. Then carbon dioxide would be the main gas to worry about coming back in (especially after turning it off.) And at least that gas is detectable even without assistance. - but then we'd have to make sure there is always a fan cooling the exhaust. The slope would make heat rise towards the heater.
Unless it's balanced either side? More of a question really. @@Styrola
The idea is that negative pressure will make it less efficient right? Having a channel to flow will be efficient because entropy will lead it?
Whenever the government is worried about your safety, theyre not. Theyre worried about the safety of their pockets.
No worried that you find a cheaper alternative
@@RonnieMay. thats what he said ...
@@jackobei17 who said was on first base he said was on third.
Thanks! Just about everything I want out of a YT video. Humour, intelligence, practicality, and common sense. I was going to send you some sticks from a nearby wood but opted for 5 quid instead. Thanks again.
Thank you so much, that's very kind. Your support is much appreciated. Cheers J
Aussie here, I make biodiesel from used cooking oil I pick up from various places and successfully run my ute, tractor and diesel log splitter. I was so hoping to run the two diesel heaters that heat my home off it too, however, even mixing with bought diesel, the burn chambers and gauze clog up with sooty stuff and they won't fire up. So now I just run them on bought diesel. Thanks for your input, regards from down under!
You're right. cheers J
Twenty years ago, I ran my Diesel VW Bus on pure vegetable oil - there was a heated Bosch Diesel filter that helped a lot. I'd also recommend using a water separator in the fuel line, as frying oil often contains some water.
And maybe you could try using small pebbles instead of sand, then you could perhaps use is as a thermal mass or blow air through them to extract heat.
Excellent ideas worth trying. Cheers J
Surely water in the fuel is much less of an issue in a burner like this than in a piston engine? I'm honestly asking. It sounds fascinating.
@@Brainchild110Water poisons the combustion, never a good idea to have it on diesel.
You could also lengthen the exhaust 3 or 4 times around your building inside.
"Add vents to distribute the exhaust, so it does not concentrate in one part of the garage" just kidding DONT DO THAT!@@Princess_Paula_T.
This channel is a hidden gem that I am absolutely so glad I found
Thank you so much. Lots more to come. Cheers J
Love from cold lapland, I've been on the fence since your first heater video but it seems that this absolutely is the most convenient way to heat my outside workshop.
Many thanks for the continuing morale boost for becoming a self sufficient "guy who builds things".
Thank you. These cheap Diesel heaters are great for the money and more importantly the fact they are easy to maintain/service and install on your own. It's important though to take extra precautions to make sure it's safe, so things like CO2 and fire alarms are a must. Cheers J
Van lifer here with a eberspacher and log burner. That sign off was absolutely gold, so glad I watched to the end.
Massive thanks, great content.
Top tip for using WVO... Mix it with 20% petrol then leave it for a couple of days before you filter it. The petrol acts as a solvent and 90% of the crude drops to the bottom of the tank you're storing it in. Great video by the way
Interesting idea. I'll possibly have a look at that. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleI hope that you don't mind me, chipping in,,,
but this works!!❤ Really!!
Yeah, but you are adding to the cost again. it's going to cancel the saving out using petrol🤷🏻♂️. Unless you can filter petrol again and use it for something?😂... faff springs to mind
@@Dolmar-Rick good point...
@@Dolmar-Rick If it's mixed with gasoline then you can use it as is, so instead of mixing with kerosene or diesel you just use it mixed with 10-20% petrol and that should make it thin enough and burn easier. Seen plenty guys running veg oil mixed with only 10% gasoline on diesel cars, not sure the best ratio for these heaters but it should be similar
Hi, you can increase the efficiency of the ducted fan solution by reversing the flow of the fan. I.e. push colder air in at the point furthest away from the heater. This keeps a more constant temperature differential between the air and the exhaust pipe temperature and thus better heat exchange.
Yes, I thought the same. (Just edited this because I reread what I'd written and realised I was previously talking gibberish!) But, It's called the principle of contra flow. When you want two fluids to exchange the most heat in the most efficient way, put the cold inlet of secondary fluid (could be liquid or gas) into the heat exchanger at the cold end of the primary fluid. That way the cooler primary can still give up heat to the colder secondary) The computer fan wouldn't enjoy being so close to the 200•C end of the Exhaust pipe either, so reversing the polarity of the fan and blowing air in rather than moving it to the other end of your shroud and sucking the air out will reverse the flow like you say. That's the way forward... 🤔
Came to the comments to say the same thing.... bump
Definitely this. Might be better for the fan as well, because it's way cooler.
Correct on the counter flow. Also, pushing room air in is essential for the life of the server fan by having cool vs hot gas cooking the windings. @@ColinWoodpeckerUK
That's just amazing. But with his box mounted to the wall, that might not work out as well as it could.
Hi from Canada Joshua, so you lot are the reason my wood is so expensive, lol. I started watching do-it-yourself videos, and you popped up, and I'm shocked you don't have more subs. Great information and well explained. Thank you.
You're very kind thank you. Yes also any wood chips are taken and no longer available to purchase over heat for the same reason. Cheers J
it would be best if you got cracking on one of these before trudeau bans them here, I've got two one for my shed/shop and one for the house. this year ill be trying a different fuel tank idea for more capacity 25L jerry cans with a hole drilled in the cap for the standpipe fuel pick up to quintuple my capacity and because with the tank above the unit I'm pretty sure I've leaked more than I burned last year. I just stole a cap off an old can to seal it to refill the can come back transfer to the cap with the standpipe and its good to go for another week
I dont usually sub because of 1 video, but your logical and practical approach, effective communication skills and indomitable humour make it an easy choice. Absolutely useful and informative video, thanks!!
Thank you so much. Lots more to come soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Thumbnail is top tier also on this one.
If you didn't already; counter flowing the fluid over the exhaust allows for more efficient extraction. Allow the colder side of the exhaust to warm the air and have the air flow over hotter and hotter sections of the exhaust, so the temperature difference is high across the box section.
I was just about to post about counter current cooling.
Great point. He could just turn the fan over and make it blow into the cooler end. Must admit, I wondered where the air was coming in from… anyway, wherever it was, that should work, and as you say, it increases the temperature difference giving better heat extraction over the whole length.
Just came here to write this. Would be cool if he could measure and post update
Plus you won't have to worry about the fan melting from the heat that way as well.@@simontillson482
Why not use the fan on the heater to pre heat the air going into the heater? I have seen a video of it and that guy picked up 20-30 degrees c on the outlet temp of the heater and no fan needed.
Another variation on the forced air through the shroud technique would be to make the shroud slightly larger than the diameter of the exhaust pipe and use the fan to PUSH the air through. This would increase the velocity of the air around the pipe and therefore give a larger temp differential, and spare the fan from the hottest air.
I'm definitely getting one of these systems when I buy my house.
Larger temperature differential means higher efficiency where the transfer of heated air occurs.
I had the same idea pushing the air should be the better option. But my main reasoning is different - it is the heat differential. If you push the air(or suck out on the heater side), then the colder ambient air meets the already cooled exhaust pipe there and while it travels to the heater side it warms up on an increasingly hot exhaust pipe. That means on an sufficiently long exhaust pipe the exhaust gas temperature can reach almost ambient temperature inside. A greater airflow or increased surface area on the exhaust pipe would improve too (or reach that result earlier). Probably taking the idea from the output pipe - a pipe to take in the air close from the floor, which should be cooler should be an improvement too,
I don't have the words to express how much I love and appreciate this video. All I can say is thank you, Joshua. ☮ from NY.
Great video! Love the info but especially love the entertainment value LoL!!! Also, Ulefone (used for pounding nails at 9:42) are THE best rugged phones hands down! I have several and will never buy any other brand of phone, ever! Thanks!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
If you want to extract even more energy out of this system, try putting insulation between the exhaust pipe and the wall. Since the wall goes to the outside, it is going to be cooler and will essentially be a heat sink. By insulating it you have more trapped thermal energy to siphon off which will increase your efficiency specifically on the draw of the exhaust.
Insulate the wall, not the exhaust pipe. Better solution is to add enough pipe onto the exhaust pipe to create a heat exchanger so as to extract as much heat as possible (i.e. exhaust reaches close to room temperature) BEFORE it goes into the wall. Or in other words, run the exhaust pipe into a radiator, which then has a pipe on the outlet going to the wall and then outside.
@@akulkis isn't that what he's already done with the 8' long exhaust running along the inside of the wall?
@@monkeysuncle2816
Yeah. I see now that I misread the post I was replying to.
Also add a layer of reflective foil to the top of the insulation- this will reflect infrared heat from the pipe back into the room.
That's an EDUCATIONAL CONTENT. With the winter outside and the fronts in Europe moving west, I'm so thankful for this vid, it just checked so many preparedness boxes that I have a solution for and don't have to literally worry anymore.
Thank you so much. The next video coming will be even better as I explore generating cheap electricity. Cheers J
Excellent presentation from a highly intelligent individual, an excellent presenter is able to highlight the necessities without the b/s no one cares about, which inspires me & motivates to think outside the square. Well done mate, keep it up 👍
Thank you. I certainly don't get it 100% right all the time. I already have some comments that make me question a few of my previous thoughts but that's good. It's always good to have pre conceived ideas and beliefs tested so you can find the truth. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleYou are doing a Fantastic job , Thank You!!
Best Wishes and Kindest Regards,. XxX.
you're welcome
@@joshuadelisle
Like the video. Gave a thumbs up. Do want to say that over a large area, coppicing of trees produces less firewood (or lumber) in the long term than just cutting down the tree and allowing new ones to take their place.
Has anyone mentioned Afterburner for these diesel heaters? It's a project by a guy in Australia and he sells PCBs that turn these heaters into real thermostats which start and stop the heater to keep your set temperature and a ton of other features like monitoring fuel usage.
I can't believe these don't already have a thermostat.
can you tell me the name of his channel or the video title ?
They've been in touch with me and sending one for review. Cheers J
@@466rudy6vevor new bluetooth heater does have a thermostat
@@joshuadelislesounds great. Is the recommended heater in your pinned post from Amazon compatible? Or does it need a different ECU?
Great video. I wanted to make a suggestion for the exhaust. I recommend running the exhaust through a water type baseboard heater. These heaters have a pipe for the water to run through and I think it would work perfectly to exhaust the gases outside. Those heaters have fins which allow for more surface area to transfer the heat more effectively.
Plus you could use the bottom tap of the heater to let the water out that is gonna be there from the exhaust fumes
I haven’t read all the comments but the most effective way to recover heat from airflow (exhaust) is for the outside to be finned like an air cooled motor. This gives a much greater surface area to extract heat. Alternatively wrap copper tubing around the exhaust and run water through it to an automotive radiator with fan attached. Love your work, cheers.
Here in the mountains of Colorado it gets cold and our grid can be a little finicky when its really cold. I want one of these to save some money and be less reliant. Thanks for the video!
Hi, i use the 8kw, i only heve the exhaust outside. And i run on diesel. I have 50m2 to heat. I took the cover off so i can see clearly whan i need to fill it again. 2.5l per day. The heather has been on for weeks in a row and no problems, 22c, wonderful. I have not replaced the ful hoses eiter, but i have added a fuel filter. Nothing els. No maintenance nothing . For 3 years now. Great heater, nothing wrong with it. I like your videos fun and educational. Holland Ewald.
LMFAO. Your ending in the last 1 minute was great!! Keep up the good work!! If we get our house we're looking at, it will have an extended garage/workshop/utility room. I'll definitely get one of these to heat it up!
Thank you so much. All the very best. Cheers J
Ending just hits with logic like you hit the nail with the phone. It was amazing video, thank you.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Hi Joshua, I have only just come across your channel and I'm pleased and impressed. Liked the camera, so I have just bought £203 including 'shipping'. It looks like a great product and will come in handy for late night pub brawls. Thanks
The Ulephone is out of stock on Amazon UK... 😮💨which is a pity as I would buy one right now!
Love the content... I found your channel whilst researching diesel heaters for my boat.
I'll check with them on Monday. They should re stock soon. Cheers J
I suspect that wet sand would have taken a lot of the energy out in the process of drying it before getting better results, I think it’s called evaporative cooling. I’m going to start playing around with sand batteries over winter to work out how we might utilise them in our place. Yes to self sufficiency! Looking forward to the steam turbine stuff :)
That's a very good point. Cheers J
Don't forget usually in coldet temperatures the humidity is also lower. I'm not talking about the rain seasons like late spring or early fall. Just saying pretty much winter. The heat travels to colder areas. As the water evaporates if it is inside the heat will be there plus maybe needed humidity.
@@user-lz2bn6eo1j He’s in the Uk (where I’m from originally). I know what you mean but winters there are far from dry and never cold enough to lower humidity like it does here (for example).
that's probably why they mentioned pumping steam through the sand, I would guess that the water/steam stays somewhat pressurized in a closed loop, negating the problems of evaporation (it can be condensed at some other point and the latent heat recuperated through a heat exchanged or something, heat pump style)
A few counterpoint to your point about central energy production (without invalidating your points)
1. Those large power plants achieve much greater combustion efficiency.
2. Decent generating stations use their waste heat for district heating.
3. Transporting the heating oil takes fuel in itself.
4. Electricity generation is in the middle of a sea change: as the grid gets greener, so does energy used in your home. (Note: that's a point in favour of heat pumps and EVs, etc; not straight electric heating which is simply stupid, leading to the next point)
5. You can get 3 units of heat for 1 unit of electric energy using a heat pump. Works just as well with locally produced energy, mind you (solar, micro hydro).
6. Wood stove using sustainably sourced fuel, while inefficient, is fine in a truly off-grid application. It is not fine in suburban or dense residential areas: the exhaust particulates don't have enough free air mass to dilute to non-harmful levels. And we have too many people in the world for everybody to homestead. Same argument against heating oil, with the added issue of non-sustainably sourced resource use.
Just information:
Transformers are a small part of the grid losses, about twice as much as the losses in HV transmission lines. About half of the total losses is in the low voltage distribution (due to the higher current). HVDC lines are a solution for reducing losses in long backhauls, but the low voltage distribution system is probably here to stay for the foreseeable future.
Total losses for the grid are about 5-6% in the US, China and EU average, 8% for UK (smaller grid, about average for the world) , up to tens of percents for small grids. Which could be argued to be another point in favor of centralized production, to a point.
(data: World Bank indicator “EG.ELC.LOSS.ZS“)
All very good points. I'll talk about those in my next video. I'm generating electricity at home using sustainable wood gasification. Cheers J
How does the difference in voltage effect losses 110V USA vs 220 V Europe ?
Excellent video !! I like your approach ... you "get to it" !! Thorough, very thorough ! And yes , cross flow exchangers are more efficient. Someone might ask.. What is a "cross flow exchanger" cross flow exchanger is when one flow is going one way and the other flow going the opposite direction... AKA ... Cross flow heat exchanger.
As you were ... be safe & have a great day !
PS: Good catch on the volatiles' coming off of the glues/adhesive.
You're a good person and innovative Joshua. Don't let the government, regardless of what side they're on, dictate to you what to do. It's not like you're building a nuclear power station in your house.
Please turn the fan around so it blows air into the duct. This brings the cooler room air in at the cooler end of the exhaust pipe and more total heat will be transferred. Also called a counter flow heat exchanger.
Alternatively, have the fan extracting at the hot end - although your idea keeps the fan cooler, thus extending its life due to the fan keeping cool while in use 🙂
Also see an opportunity to direct this heat to a second "zone" of the workshop adding comfort to where you are working.
This!
Also having aluminium fins attached to the exhaust pipe would make heat transfer more efficient.
All proper ideas having the fan pushing the air into the exchanger is the best and matching the air flow will help. Having fins to promote more exchange would help.
Yes the counter flow makes sense.
As klauss schuab said and the WEF is enforcing.... "you will own nothing and be happy".
@@corycarlson8712 Spot on! 👏👏👏
@@corycarlson8712 good thing Klauss is still a mortal human like the rest of us. Would be a shame the day he faces God, wouldn't it? 🤔
@@AscendedMaster11111after him will come next and next programmed „shadow” persons that will push plan forward with the accompaniment of useful idiots.
Good man! 1st video I've watched, but have subscribed. Im on oil central heating and have been swithering with changing to a Heat Pump as oil prices can spike quite high - especially during covid where it went from £500 to £1350 for 1000L tank. MWIll watch more of yor videos to see if there is a better aproach than going down the Heat Pump route, thanks
Love it. My unasked for two bits: A larger diameter exhaust pipe, to reduce flow restriction over longer lengths with some sort of addition to increase hot gas contact with heat transferring surfaces. Sand battery has a nice set of benefits for a shop such as yours for overall comfort and economy once you are managing the heaters on, off, and hz with an esp32 controller that knows when to expect you and when you are about to close up for the night.
Big diameter exhaust, less flow restriction **and** more time in the exhaust so more time for heat to be lost into the room. Perhaps use aluminum for the pipe as good heat conductor. Stainless steel not so good.
Excellent video again! Love your honesty. One observation is that kerosene & diesel are not the same thing ! Diesel has a higher energy density that kerosene, also is thicker in viscosity and higher boiling temperature. Therefore they are classed as heating oil #1(kerosene) diesel fuel oil, & #2 (diesel) diesel fuel oil or 28 second (for kerosene) & 35 second (diesel {red}) fuel oil. Referring to its Viscosity.
Yes. The good thing is that kerosene burns very clean and isn't affected by freezing temperatures so much like diesel is so an outside tank will be fine. However it's common for the diesel to gum up in trucks when the temperature drops. Cheers J
Love your content, your enthusiasm and energy. Very knowledgeable and informative. I no longer work due to my incapacity, mental illness. I love seeing things being made. I used to work in injection moulding, and tool making, got some understanding of some manufacturing process. Take care Joshua all the best to you and your family. Great content.
Thank you so much. That's very kind of you. I pray that you can recover and find your strength. Have a blessed Christmas. Cheers J
Just popping in to say I thoroughly enjoyed your video. The information presented and your stage presence was enough to keep one engaged without resorting to schtick. I was hoping for a waste oil furnace vid, but couldn’t click away!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
This is the best phone advertisement ever!
Try adding larger bore lengths of pipe to the exhaust, only growing in size as you go a long the length. This will slow down the exhaust gas and give it more surface area to transfer the heat better. You can also use clean edged stuff to make the flow more laminar and help exhaust condensation flow out.
I was hoping you were going to turn the oil drum into a sand battery. Ya big tease...
Definitely looking forward to a video on used cooking oil filtering as I'm doing that myself. Used coffee grounds and coffee filters are my current secret sauce (along with sand).
Thank you. I was tempted to do that but I ran out of time for this one. Maybe for a future video. Cheers J
The one issue with this is that you GREATLY reduce the amount of exhaust gasses that come into contact with the side walls of the exhaust gas exponentially as you make the pipe wider. That actually reduced the amount of thermal transfer you get.
Sand battery on the hot air output (not the exhaust) is a shout, just a case of working out what bore to make the coil through the sand to avoid excess back pressure.
@@Jonathan_Doe_ a sand battery on the output side would completely negate the point of him using a decent heater. He mentioned in the video that he has a wood heater, but he uses the diesel heater to heat up his shop quickly and have it warm when he gets out there . There .
If you added a thermal battery to the outlet side that would increase the amount of time that it takes to heat up the shop in the morning.
Josh, only recently found and subscribed to your channel and as a retired engineer, I love it. ADDITIONALLY !! My three brothers (between them) have 7 sons and 3 daughters and all are being taught independence and self sufficiency. I have recommended your channel to them for obvious reasons but also due to the fact that you seem to be one of the very few on UA-cam that can complete a pod cast or for that matter even a sentence without having to insert an expletive. Thanks for all the useful information and a vocabulary that doesn’t sound like a “hood rat”.
Thank you so much. You'll like my next video coming up. I'm going off grid using wood to generate electricity. Cheers J
You're a clever and innovative person Joshua. Don't let those in power, regardless of what side they're in, stop you from doing things like this. After all it's not like you want to build your
That fan is a very good way of extracting heat from that pipe.
The only thing I can think of to get just a little more heat from that pipe is with heat exchange fins around the pipe to have a higher surface-to-air ratio.
Just make sure that the fins run with the air flow and not parallel.
You might need an extra fan doing that to get the needed airflow.
Completely agree about using wood burners, I've lived in boats, benders & on the road in various motors, always had a burner. However, you do need to be near a wood, getting enough wood for a day takes a lot of time & energy. Most folk however buy the stuff, & it ain't cheap, about £100+ for a "ton" bag. There are ways top get cheap wood, again, it takes time. Thanks for this video & all your time & effort.
Your right. Cheap generally means a lot of work and convenience means expensive because some one puts in the work for you. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Aye, but as you say if your shifting for yourself you have more autonomy.
For your air heat exchanger, run the air the other direction. Put the cooler air next to the cooler pipe. Your exhausted gasses will be cooler and you will scavenge more heat from the pipe.
Agree! To add, it is called Counter-current Exchange and it can have almost 100% efficiency en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countercurrent_exchange
So you suggest reversing the fan I installed? Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleyes, as well as the efficiency improvement, as per my other comment a moment ago, it will improve the fan life because it will run cooler.
@GlennBrockett Sound like a good idea... a simple mod... and the heated air will vent through the holes in the top of the cowling.
Oh, what is the outlet arrangement? If you haven't made another opening, make one at the end close to the burner. Make it quite small, so there is a positive pressure in the duct. It probably won't make a practical difference, but it might reduce the chance of exhaust leaks into your shed, because the pressure gradient will be slightly harder to overcome than just going out the silencer... With a computer fan the difference probably isn't enough to have a big impact though. But meh. Why not.
Im glad I found your channel. You're pursueing a number if things that I am wanting to heat my chicken coop with a Vivo and this is a great discovery for me. Also gotta have that Ulephone infra camera 😅 Im from Alaska and now down in the USA in NW mountains. Washington state.😮😮 I will be following your ventures. So far been very enlightening. Dandahermit
Quick note about fuel pumps.. - they should be mounted vertically due to their self-lubricating nature. 45 degrees is a compromise but horizontal is a bad idea. Air bubbles accumulate in the top of the pump and eventually the top side of the piston receives no lubrication.
As a suggestion, you could replace the exhaust pipe with a finned tube radiator. Due to the increased surface area you will extract much more heat. Also put the exhaust at an angle to make sure that any water can drip out and doesn't collect in the pipe when extracting the heat.
BTW, I like the idea with the fan, but how about replacing it with a 230-volt fan? They are more powerful and, considering the losses in the power supply, probably more efficient than a 12-volt one.
I disagree with the use of AC mains fans, they are more expensive but less efficient than PC Fans.
I run a temperature and humidity control for my inverters on 12V, the switch power supply is 98% efficient and the brushless DC Motors I guess 90%
DC Fans are much more efficient for same air flow, can run off battery in the event of a power failure and are highly controllable compared to most AC or shaded pole fans. You don't need super powerful fans, you need fans that can provide the airflow. There is a difference between airflow and "powerful".
An 80% efficient power supply, which is well and truly within possibility even for cheap chineseum, will still be more efficient than a shaded pole AC fan.
Does the condensing exhaust not cause risk of it corroding?
Your sand battery is likely losing alot of retained heat into the exterior wall that its mounted to. Im of firm belief , … that it would be warmer if it was a couple inches off the wall. It would also retain the heat for a longer duration
On the fan front, wouldn't a repurposed stove fan that is powered by heat be a better option
I love it!!!! How about a wood burning stove with a back boiler that heats your radiators (will need a metal expansion tank and pump, no biggie). And the stick a flat plate heat exchanger in the loop so you can also switch your heating on using your combi boiler.
Also stick a radiator on said loop in a metal cupboard with a extraction fan on top, to act as a drying rack!, to dry clothes and towels ect!!!!
These are some of the amazing ideas I come up with and my adhd don’t ever let me complete!!!
I watched this video about 18 months ago, forgot all about it, then something reminded me of the subject matter. Anyway, put it into YT search and you came up again. I'd previously looked at prices and though they were circa £100-£120, didn't want to spend that. Looked on A again and £68, be here tomorrow. Should help heat the garage!
I stayed , almost transfixed by your antics. Strangely I managed to keep up with what you were showing us. I wish you had been my science teacher . Explaining subjects clearly, the way you do. Involves understanding, belief and honesty. Qualities few people hold. WELL DONE.
Thank you so much. Hopefully lots more like this to come. Cheers J
Just a side note. The sand battery would help maintain a longer heating period which should require less time overall to reach a better working temp on the next startup. Also the sand looked wet ! Dry sand is better which would be achieved with longer run times as the continued heat slowly removes all the moisture. The test should have really been over a couple of weeks and used sand that had been sieved / graded. As for using a radiator (yes that again LOL) The same thing but using a closed loop and small 12 volt pump to circulate the water. Water head should be taken into account based on the head flow of any pump. As an avid "upcycler" myself I use the exhaust from the house ran through a 6 inch sewer pipe just 2 foot under the ground across to my garage. Currently don't filter that air as there are enough air leaks to remove almost all the harmful effects to an acceptable level. Here in Canada I often see as low as minus 40 on some days in winter which had made the garage unusable. Now I have enough heat to be able to use it most days for a period of time. It also helps prevent such as latex paints from going off due to extreme cold. Yes I need to improve it so this vid gave me some more ideas.
Thanks for the great video! When talking about percentages of heat captured, you have to be careful when using non absolute units of temperature, such as °C and °F. Direct percentage calculations don't actually make sense for these units, and you will get different results for °C and °F, since the scales have different zero points. For example, (198°C - 56°C)/198°C = 72%, but (388.4°F-132.8°F)/388.4°F = 66%. If you want to divide by an absolute temperature, you need to use the Kelvin scale to get the absolute percentage of energy captured, but this is not exactly useful either, since a 100% efficiency would mean that you are able to cool the exhaust down to absolute zero (requires a heat pump, and of course one with that kind of efficiency does not exist). With Celsius and Fahrenheit scales, however, you can still talk about and divide by differences in temperatures, so a more useful notion might be to take a target temperature for the room, and set that as the reference for the optimal 100% efficiency exhaust temperature, as this is the best efficiency you can achieve without heat pumps. Take, say, 20°C = 68°F as the target. Now we get (198°C - 56°C)/(198°C - 20°C) = 80%, and as a sanity check, (388.4°F-132.8°F)/(388.4°F - 68°F) = 80%.
Here it's also good to note, that temperature is not the same as heat energy. The rate of heat energy given out by a surface at temperature T_1 in a room at temperature T_2 is proportional to the surface area of the surface as well as the temperature difference T_1 - T_2. Since this is a direct proportionality with respect to temperature, you can use the temperature in many proportionality (percentage) calculations, but need to be a bit careful. Also the amount of heat energy stored in a substance is directly proportional to the temperature of the substance, meaning that with the sand battery, when it is initially warming up, it does not give out as much heat (power) as the air one, but once its temperature has settled (no longer rising), the amount of energy stored in the sand is constant, and it is giving out heat at the same rate it's pulling it from the exhaust. The surface temperature of the sand battery will be much lower than that of the exhaust pipe, since the surface area is much larger. I think your method of comparing the difference of exhaust temperatures at the beginning and in the end of the pipe is maybe more useful than comparing the temperatures of the radiator vs the pipe vs the air blown by the computer fan (and seems you thought the same).
my captain my captain
What he said.
Hello from across the pond. Have a diesel heater in my 6x10 cargo conversion. Works fantastic albeit I let the exhaust OUTSIDE to heat the forrest for the animals who might be cold...Love you channel and this video which I may have already commented on...ok keep em comming !!!
@@jimnjele.bean-dayone3505 thank you so much. I'm hoping to do another follow up on my diesel heater with a water cooled exhaust which circulates to a hot water tank. Cheers J
A massive safety aspect you missed on the Hicalory heater.
The power adapter mains lead may not have a fuse, but it does have a plug where the Earth pin is - wrongly - sheathed.
Chinese factories do get confused about the function of the Earth in a mains plug. The Earth pin should be the first pin to make contact and the last to disconnect: hence it being the longest pin. That way you are protected for the longest time. Similarly, the Earth wire inside the plug should have the longest length of 'slack' wire so that if the wires work loose, the Earth will still be connected - and the user protected - even if Live and Neutral wires break free.
It's the Earth pin that pushes the safety shutters aside in the mains socket, so that the Earth pin connects first and disconnects last to the Earth contacts immediately inside the socket. Whereas the Live and Neutral contacts are recessed deeper inside.
With the Earth pin sheathed, the Earth will be insulated as the Earth pin cannot touch the socket's Earth contacts - the device will not be Earthed...
Perhaps you might like to notify H M Customs and the retailer about the seriousness of that anomaly.
I really hope more than three people read that!
wow, i'm glad i read the comments, never thought of this before. i'll keep the ground wire longest from now on
Perhaps Hcal should make the Earth pin all-plastic. The power supply brick label indicates that it is double-insulated, so should not be earthed. ( Going by general standards, the label is probably decorative )
It isn't that they should make it plastic, it's having the isolation on a metal Earth pin in the first place. This device is metal cased and therefore needs an Eatth. The problem is that they are confused why there is shielding there in the first place.
Walter: "These are not the ones that built the railrode here, Dude!"
lol I think this is the best add for a tough phone I have ever seen 😂
I really like how you're relentless in your projects! your exhausts from the heater on the external wall you can put a thin layer a foam insulation to keep it from leaching heat outside. And put a couple of stove heaters on it That use thermal induction you would need no electricity. Love your projects buddy. Good luck
I'm actually planning on doing just that. Cheers J
Sand battery benefits come from the ability to be heated up to hundreds of degrees of C without building up pressure or boiling. High temperature difference from the source to the storage -> high heat flow -> effective heat transfer from high temperature storage. I think the system designed in Finland uses cheap hours of electric grid to "fill up", then provides hot water from the heat storage - no idea what kind of heat exchanger they have to avoid overheating the water.
A friend of mine has got the same banned model and he received an email from his supplier to say that it must be disposed of or destroyed, not because there was anything wrong with it, but because the user guide specifically didn't contain a particular warning phrase.
I really hope he laughed and ignored that email.
1:32 You may also want to mention, for those who might try, NOT TO DRINK THE DIESEL FUEL! In California it'd be on a label.
Ive been interested in the Ulephone and that model is amazing. You are really challenging its claims. I need an unlocked international GSM.
Glad hearing someone mentioning the bio mass "green energy" scandal !
Great video 👌
If it doesn't make sense then foul play is at the heart is my thought on most subjects. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle If the government have their hands in it you can safely assume boots are being filled and as an added benefit the whole thing is handled as incompetently as possible.
Running the exhaust through an aftermarket automobile catalytic converter may just be worth exploring. They are stainless steel to resist the acid formed in the condensing gas and many have a heat shield on one side that would provide some mounting options. In addition, I believe that rather than just recovering "waste" heat, the catalyst drives an exothermic reaction, especially the second generation convertors that have a port to admit extra air for driving the reaction. The extra air could be provided from outside. This setup could provide a radiant heat component to the whole rig...heat you can feel.
True, the after-market catalytic converters run about what the diesel heater does, but it will probably outlast the heater and may very well pay for itself in a season with the extra heat generated.
The issue with adding a catalytic converter is exhaust back pressure. It will bugger the efficiency of the engine without retuning it. I'd recommend not slapping one on.
Radiator fins on the exhaust pipe (where it runs inside the tunnel/housing) will create more heat transfer to the air.
How would you suggest making/fitting them to the exhaust to get maximum heat conductivity? Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Brazing or soldering would work well. They could either be made as discs (donuts) and slid on from one end, or as half-donuts so they can be slid on across the pipe. The final effect would look like the cooling fins on a Nambu type 99 machine gun, but maybe not so close together.
If they are a close fit, they don't even need the soldering - just be tight enough to be in contact with the tube. If slid on slightly loose, then you could put a small kink in each disc so it deforms and grips the tube.
Jubilee clips and thermal paste or thermal pads would be a good start.
Great idea, perhaps 1 or more radiant fin tube copper hydronic piping, with condensate recovery. Obviously fin tube diameter would need to be sized to meet exhaust requirements. An industrial SS fin tube would be ideal. Nice job editing btw. Political bent A+
next time at the heating supply store, look at a hot water baseboard radiator.. similar idea... exhaust gas is hot, that heat radiates to the room via fins that surround it.... as the temp goes down in the exhaust from this radiation, problems may arise in the efficiency of getting the poisenous gasses to flow to the outside.... buildup in the pipe might be an issue.
Just sposing, I don't know, I am a locksmith, not an HVAC Tech ! Maybe ASK an expert...... that would actually make a good video #3, and fill your bank at the same time.... kaching plus entertainment! Can not throw a rock at that!
Slightly off topic but completely on topic, 😊, all that heat we are generating from whatever contraption we have installed…. Most of it is getting trapped at ceiling level and we don’t normally reside at ceiling level. Simple bit of 3” downpipe and a pc fan at the bottom with the top of the downpipe at the highest point would drag all that lovely warm air back down to feet level? Would make an interesting episode on how much difference that makes to overall workshop heating? Would the heat be worth the extra draft created?
Really informative and helpfull video! Insulate your door with just reflective padded foil will help reducing heat loss dramatically and is easy and cheap to do. The next step would be to replace the door with one that has a seperat entrance door(and while you;re at it, that door can be the 40mm insulated one )
Thank you. I might build a porch at the side with a two door system so I can close one behind me. I need the two large garage doors for the large projects I do now and again. Some lengths of steel are over 8m so I pass it through the workshop. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I Can't believe you have not insulated the doors: They are a huge cold radiator, probably more than 50 sq ft. I obtained a load of fruit and veg boxes made of polystyrene from my local greengrocer and cut the base, sides and lids to make flat panels about 1/2" thick to cover my double garage door and it has made an amazing difference. When you touch it now it feels warm. I replaced the roof with insulated corrugated steel sheets as well.
@@terrymcalinden889 nice. Cheers J
One thing that sadly might be wrong here is the direction of your fan. You moved the air from hot to cold which could result in the cold side getting hotter and the hot side getting colder. You want a gradual increase in temperature so move the colder air over the colder area and gradually increase it by moving to a hotter and hotter area. This greatly increases efficiency.
In chemistry you always have the cold water at the bottom of the condenser and the water flows from bottom to top where the hot product comes from the top to the bottom. My teacher hammered that in.
That said its air... air isn't the best way to remove or add heat. You need a massive amount of surface area.
For example my radiator at home I have 7 2000 rpm 14CM fans running full speed when the temperature rises above 25 celcius. It takes 15 minutes for it to cool down the water below 25c when its just sitting there so after I turned off the knob. That is really inefficient and I am in need of a better solution. Perhaps just reducing the flow rate.
Yes, the direction of the fan AND a larger surface to exchange the heat over… “spiral finned tubing” helps!
I like a few of the ideas that have popped up in the comments. Particularly reversing the fan.
I would be wary of making a more efficient radiator unless you have a way of stopping deposits from forming inside the exhaust section when the temperature is lowered too far.
Also, I see that a sand battery would be good in an area where you need continued heating when the heater is off e.g. sleeping areas. So you can turn off the engine to sleep in the quiet, while retaining the continued heating ability of the sand.
An air or liquid radiator is ideal when you need to use an area, and then leave e.g. a workspace, like a converted garage. As much of the heat as possible is used to heat the air while you are there. Then when you leave the area, there is no residual heat stored in the sand that would be wasted while you are not there.
I have had a Ulefone armor 11 for 3 years. I love it. Super Tough. As a mechanic it has no problem with oil, coolant or metal dust sticking too the speaker. Good camera too.
A diesel car EGR cooler is a good exhaust to water heat exchanger if you are looking to heat water with the exhaust heat. Ford Galaxy and Peugeot 2.0 HDI ones have been recommended by others as the connectors are close to the diesel heater exhaust diameter. Most people in the UK who are "on grid" won't be able to store more than 200l of heating oil without notifying the building control of their local authority. You're likely exempt as your home is heated by heating oil.
Very good point. Cheers J
Thermoking makes a semi Trailer heater called a heat king. The muffler for the little yanmar or whatever it is diesel engine had an integral air water heat exchanger in it and it was pretty narrow diameter exhaust.
Imagine starting a fire in your house and being surprised it filled up with smoke. It's like some people never saw the back of a running car.
Tesla owners, that’s your answer lol
Dear other commenters:
Don’t take it politically.
idiots making things illegal, a classic ^.^
@@techsethI know it's a joke, but driving electric does not equal stupidity 🤗
People have suffocated in tents from burning things in there and going to sleep. People think the government will protect them from all danger and the doctors will cure it all.
@@Kasperbjerby not saying that. Some people are super use to electric heaters, so I can understand how someone may forget to route the exhaust outside. Just like how someone who has driven Tesla all their lives may forget a gas vehicle should not run inside a garage or forget to turn it off. It’s happened before, it’s just not accustom to them.
Your air heat exchanger setup will have higher efficiency over time. As storage heats up the smaller temp drop means it captures less heat.
Look forward to seeing your wood heater experiments.
based on that "logic", since people have comitted suicide by having their car running in a closed garage, the government _should_ ban petrol and diesel cars too!!! 🙄
Don't give them ideas
That's the stupidest thing I ever heard. Lol just kidding. I actually agree :)
havent you realised... the wheels are already in motion for exactly this
someone who cares more about the right answer than the answer they want. this is a breath of fresh air. no pun intended.
I'm blown away that nobody is talking about him using a cellphone as a hammer for half an hour
Right? XD
🤣🤣
That did make me chuckle.... a lot
And using to most fragile part of it as well, the screen. Would have used the side or the back, there is clearly damage to the LCD even if the glass isn't cracked.
Funny to see that around 9:00 minutes you see multiple hammers
I just come across your channel & it is funny to me that you have put so much time & effort into heating.
I live in the far north of Western Australia, in a very hot environment & the very last thing that I ever think about is heating anything.
Although, I do often think about how to cool things down.
That'll be a project for me to tackle. Cheap cooling. Cheers J
I think the most efficient way of getting heat out of the exhaust would be to essentially submerge the tube in a water or antifreeze bath and then have a pump running to circulate the liquid through a radiator and then a fan to disperse the heat.
really interesting to hear your closing thoughts about burning wood etc. Agree with the "they dont lke us getting free stuff" idea. I've got PV, batteries & an ASHP. Pay for themselves in 5.5 years and after that free. I wanted to buy something that would eventually provide free energy rather that keep paying the energy companies for something thats burnt in an instant and needed to be bought continually. Good luck with the wood and diesel.
I got the same, then in the first year, leftwingers began trying to brutally slash the delivery compensation for my PV power. So in the summer I have to give it away for free and in the winter I can pay through my teeth despite my investment.
The only thing keeping the compensation around is the current political chaos, and even then the payment got halved for my supplier (I was a first adopter of a new power company in 2008, still carry the perks after they were bought out) and cut by 7/8ths for most suppliers.
They want us to stop burning gas, oil, wood etc, but they're doing an excellent job at deterring people from actually going there.
Interesting. With the sand, you sort of created a diesel/kerosene powered storage heater. Makes a lot of sense from when electricity is the only option. Installed a set of Quantum heaters last year and while they are light years better than old style storage heaters, that's basically what they are, just with far better insulation and fans. But, it's nice having warmth.
If you go down the WVO path, it might be worth turning it into proper biodiesel. Not for the cost, but just to see how well it works in the heater.
The commercial solar power plants use molten Sulphur as the heat storage medium to continue to generate steam after sundown.
Sulphur is probably not a friendly medium in a shop shed, but the experiment would be interesting
For WVO processing, (if you can weld) make a centrifugal particulate filter.
Parts you will need?
Angle grinder, a steel coupler from a resin disc grinder attachment. 12in x 1.5in round cake pan. 1 stainless steel round cake pan 11in x 2in. One stainless steel stock pot lid at least for an 11 inch pot. One blue barrel or container of your choice.
Remove the plastic coupler on the resin disc sanding attachment.
Find the center of the cake pan cut a hole big enough to accept the shaft of the angle grinder and attachment.
Find center on your stock pot lid and cut out a 5 and 1/2 inch circle. Next, measure 1 inch from the lip you just cut and drill 8 x 1/4in holes that are equal distance apart from each other and centered. Take your stainless steel cake pan and TIG weld the lid to the pan.
Now find the center of the bottom of your 11 inch cake pan. Take your coupler drill four holes, place it on you're 11 in cake pan and mark the holes. Try to make sure that they are centered I cannot stress that enough. Drill the four holes into the cake pan and both the coupler to the cake pan. Make sure you use nyloc nuts and lock washers. Now one half inch in from those holes that you just drilled, drill 4 1/2in holes that are also centered and on the opposite axis of the ones that you just thrilled. Now attach it to the grinder remove any excess material from your welds. Turn it on and off quickly and make sure that you balance it with the grinder head facing up with the pan attached to it. You can epoxy a weight of your choice on the inside.
On the 12-inch cake pan, as close to the bottom edge as you can, install a drain port that you can attach a drain hose to.. Around the outside diameter.
Cut the bottom off of a blue barrel or container of your choice so long as the sides are big enough to accommodate the 12 inch cake pan (greater than 14 in).
Now here's the part I can't help you out with, you will have to figure it out according to what grinder you using but all grinders have two screw holes on the side. You will need to fabricate some kind of Mount to the grinder and to the 12-in pan so that it does not come in contact with the 11 in pan while it is in motion. This will also give you a fixed point to attach it inside your container. You're going to have to fabercoble whatever for your setup.
Put a drain hole in the bottom of your container. This whole contraption will need to be off the floor as it relies on gravity to work.
Once you get your grinder brace figured out for your container, attach the grinder, attach the 12 inch pan to the brace. Attach the coupler to the bottom of the 11 inch pan. Attach the pan and coupler, and set it inside the 12 inch cake pan and to the grinder.
***With the grinder unplugged, turn the power to the on locked position.
Okay how it works. You do your preliminary sock filter in slightly warm wvo to remove the large particulates. Now you have your WVO that is dirty with carbon and smaller particulates. This material goes into a jug placed in the elevated position relative to the top of your centrifuge. A siphoned hose with a valve from this will be placed so that it will drizzle into the center of the centrifuge. The drain from the 12-inch cake pan will go into a dirty oil jug outside of the container. The drain at the bottom is where you collect your clean wvo.
Plug your grinder into a power strip with a switch making sure that the switch is in the off position. Start your oil flow, and turn on the power strip switch. Once the spinning cake pan fills up, the access will come out of the holes and be flung against the container, this is similar to a gravitron at the fair. Particulates have a higher mass than the oil. They will be pulled to the ring running around the pan. The clean oil will float to the top where will spill out of the holes and be flung against the container. This will be collected at the bottom and out of a hose drain system that you attached. That will go into a clean jug...
As far as clean up? You will know when the centrifuge is full when it is no longer clean oil being flung against the sides. Periodically you can avoid this by turning off the centrifuse via the power strip and as it slows down, it will settle and drain in the four other holes that you drilled into the 12-inch cake pan where can be collected in recycled.
This is a basic welding project. If you are not good at fabricating, do not do this. You also need to make a shield for the grinder, this will attach do the same brace that holds the grinder in the container. It doesn't have to be elaborate it just has to be a basic umbrella. If you try to make this and you don't have it balanced or centered given the speeds that it is spinning it can cause some serious damage both to what you made and to you. I did not go into heavy detail, you can adjust the measurements, you can adjust the materials, I would recommend a safety lid on the container... But the thing is if you make this you don't have to worry about buying filter material which if you were using wvo can be very expensive overtime. I made this 25 years ago. Things that I did different than what I explained? I added a steel plate under my 11 inch pan. This was strictly for Mass and stability. I made sure it was perfectly round imperfectly balanced. It's really hard to balance stainless steel cookware because it doesn't weigh that much. I think the steal was 3/16 thick. Play what's thicker than sheet metal but not like plate steel.
I made this and mounted it in the back of a bus. I also made a wand attached to a pump, heated by jacket water to quickly and discreetly suck oil out of waste oil bins. I would not recommend putting this on a bus like I did because eventually that's where it met its demise. It was full of junk wasn't secured, it threw off the balance and the centrifuge bound to the drain pan underneath and cooked the grinder. Shortly thereafter in a undisclosed mountainous area of Colorado I refer to as hell... You might refer to it as Vail, my torque converter went out. While there are many mechanic shops there. Not a single one was large enough to accept a bus. I ended up having to junk my bus because I was in the middle of a move to Chicago money was tight, a wrecker big enough to handle my bus the closest one was Denver and that's 2 1/2 hours away, and the cheapest quote I could get was $3500. I had about 5k to my name, still had to pay for first and last month when I got there... The tow company said that they would do it for 2k if I signed the title over. It only took me 6 months to convert it into an RV. 2 weeks to design the centrifuge and wvo processing station in the back including routing the coolant lines to the back to heat the oil and the wvo tank that was routed in line with the solenoid switches...blah, blah, blah... All of it for nothing. But I did learn an awful lot on that project and I applied in many aspects after that.
I hope you at least get the basic concept if you plan on doing this it will save you a shitload of money spent on filters. And after it goes through this, you could run through a one micron filter and I would be surprised if you found anything. Not to mention if you did want to run it through that one micron filter it would probably last you better of course of a year before you'd have to replace as opposed to once every batch.
Good luck on the free heat 😁👍🏼
I grew up with wood stoves, last winter I went camping with a titanium tent stove and it brought back a lot of memories... however, having not been around one for 30 years or so, it was really driven home how bad it really is for us, and things that I never noticed when I was a kid we were really obvious, such as the smoke scent that inundated everything that I was wearing, which was not nearly as pleasant as it was as it was burning. kind of similar to how when I was a kid I never noticed the way smokers and smokers houses and cars smelled, but now with smoking being banned everywhere public, the smell is really nasty when I encounter it, and if I have to ride in a car of somebody who smokes, even if they didn't smoke while I was in the car, that smell just clings to the entire interior, which because I was sitting on is also clinging to my clothes.
Yes those stoves aren't very efficient and so you get a lot of un combusted gases escaping. The type of wood makes a difference too, resinous pine is not a great after smell but apple wood has a really pleasant odar when burnt. Most stoves by law are fitted with a secondary burn for maximum efficiency. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleThe latest wood burning stoves produce huge amounts of particulate pollution. When they are warming up they can produce over 7000 times the particulate pollution of their lab rating. In "real world testing" using best practice, wood burning stoves had pollution levels many times higher than their lab ratings. I live in a Smokeless Zone with 2 wood burning stoves opposite. My particulate monitor regularly reads SEVERELY POLLUTED with pm 2.5 levels over 300 microgrammes / cubic metre. Wood smoke is loaded with carcinogens. Worse than cigarette smoke.
@@colintinker7778Yes people that use wood burning stoves are extremely selfish, our neighbourhood stinks all winter, we have to basically seal ourselves in our home, no fresh air. I think we are going back to Victorian times, one small consolation is that fire requires air so some of their pollution is slowly poisoning themselves and children as well!
@@colintinker7778 Lots of people have no idea how to burn them clean. My mother's chimney exhaust is unnoticeable (she has asthma herself) while our neighbors sometimes smoke up the whole neighborhood.
@@downstream0114 You're right about people not knowing how to operate fires. Of the two log burners opposite us, the newest one has the blackest flue. The smoke from it flows down the roof and along the road. This is in a "smokeless zone". Both log burners stink out the whole area when lit... even with no visible smoke.
Your exhaust pipe should have been a "finned pipe" where the fins radiate the heat better from the exhaust port heat pipe, but then you may need more fans to extract the heat into the room.
Honestly, if he could find an old radiator (ones that have metal caps rather than plastic) that'd be the best bang for his buck. And replacing the drain bung with a small leg and an auto drain (the kinds you can find on separators on air pressure regulators) would deal with the condensate.
Just a note on efficiency. If you try to recover too much heat from the exhaust you will drop the temperature below the dew point of the fuel. This will cause a build up of soot like deposits in the exhaust. In time this build up will reduce the ability of the unit to clear the exhaust resulting in poor combustion within the burner and a serious reduction in efficiency.
So, to be efficient and safe check the dew point temperature of the fuel you use and allow an extra 10% margin and this figure should be the temperature of the flue gas leaving the exhaust pipe. Your system will then be operating at 100% design efficiency.
Really interesting as usual. Ive just installed 2 im my garage but the exhaust goes into a vehicle intercooler then out via a 2" exhaust for over a metre through a shed, all to reduce back pressure. The Intercooler gets exceedingly hot and exhaust is cool. Need to add different fans as computer fans I had lying around didn't shift enough air through the cooler. Also I thought I read somewhere not to use kerosene as it wasn't good for the burner. However you have busted that myth and I have an abundance of heating oil. Thanks for all the good info in all your videos-
Thank you. Kerosene doesn't have lubricant additives so it's not ideal for the pump which will eventually wear out. But considering they're cheap to replace and last at least a few years I don't see an issue especially when Kerosene is cheaper for me to buy. Cheers J
I'd guess one way to improve the heater is to add CO/CO2 detection to the control circuit, and have an excessive level as a fault condition for a safety shut-off. Not sure if that kind of thing would be required by regulation (at least on anything considered indoor heating), but maybe that's a reason why the gov't doesn't like Chinese imports? However I'm not sure if the part that controls operation could be swapped out easily, so that may be a thing that would eventually be added to newer models?
That's a good idea. I have alarms but an Arduino based control switch wouldn't be too hard to set up. Cheers J
co sensors sadly dont last very long. it would be a part that needs to be switched out to a new one every few years.
My advice is to use a bigger exhaust 2m tube instead of that one, because there's too much resistance for the exaust fumes to go out and the combustion will be affected (so you have particulate and other stuff in the reading). I have a BIG aluminium extensible pipe connected to the short exaust of the heater and there's no problem at all, it's a 10cm diameter pipe. I bet using a solid steel pipe can also share more heat for that computer fan, and the combustion will surely be better because of no constrictions in the exaust going out... LOVE your videos! Greetings from Sicilia, Italy!
It's all bottlenecked by the size of the exhaust ports on the motor. I imagine that thing isn't creating the highest pressures to begin with.
And a heavy wall steel tube would act like too much of a sink. Something with a better transfer like copper and thin walls would allow him to extract more heat from the exhaust. What he should do is see if he can source an old copper or aluminum radiator (I say old implying ones with metal caps instead of plastic). Set up correctly he could also replace the drain bung with a small drip leg fitted with an auto drain at the end (the kind you can find in separator bowls for air regulators) (to deal with the condensate).
@@ObservationofLimitsCorrect about the size of the exhaust port, but the shape of the exhaust pipe creates a lot of turbolence and this impact the overall performance of the system :) He need a bigger exhaust pipe.
try having the air cooling in a counter flow configuration. you should extract more heat that way. all of the most efficient heat exchange systems use counter flow in one way or another
edit: seems im not the only person to suggest this 😅
Yes, thank you. I think of the comments as a voting system so I'll include it for the next video. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Here's the reason behind counterflow being more effective:
When heating or cooling something, the transfer of heat depends on the temperature difference. The more heat in the heat source, the quicker it will flow to what is being heated. think of it like a trough with a dam in the middle. the dam is the ambient temperature, and the water level being held back is the heat source temperature. the higher the water is above the top of the dam, the more water can flow.
by having the exhaust going one way and having the exhaust cooling (heat exchanger air, whatever ya wanna call it) going backwards relevant to that, you're putting the coldest exchanger air at the coldest part of the heat source. This increases the temperature difference between the two so you'll pull more heat out of the cold end. since the temperature gradient of the exhaust pipe gets hotter the closer you get to the heat source, you may be decreasing the gradient at the hot end a little, but you more than make up for it by increasing the difference at the cold end.
another thing that can help this is by piping the intake end of the heat exchanger so it pulls air from near the floor rather than 1/3 up the wall. air by the floor will be the coldest after all. In fact, you may even be able to get away without the fan if you did so as the warmer air will rise and pull colder air in so long as you have enough of a height difference between the in and out (less noisy, no need to power it, etc.).
other things that can help this: using a high temp thermal glue to couple some strips of sheet metal to the exhaust tube, wrapping the exhaust tube with a bunch of wire with 2-3 inch ends sticking off it can have a similar effect. surface area is key to improving heat transfer as the air has to contact the hot bit to pull heat out.
One more thing i just thought of is to try coiling the exhaust tube so that you essentially make a coil spring shape out of it with a few inches between the coils. I don't know if this would improve efficiency, but it could allow you to fit the same (or more) exhaust tube in a heat exhanger half the length.
Given the condensation problems with the exhaust, I think coils would trap condensate. But a slight decline in the run of the exhaust would likely be good for both issues. Make the outlet lower than the heater so the condensate runs downhill and the air in the tunnel will naturally flow uphill.
@@zerumsum1640 excellent information. Thank you. Cheers J
@@ppokorny99 Rotate it 90 degrees so the outlet is on the bottom and the inlet on the top for the exhaust tube. Hell, in a vertical configuration it'll pull its own draft so you won't need a fan. so long as the hot end of the exhaust is the top you've probably got the best way to set this up.
Depending on how crafty you want to be with it, i can see an exhaust line coiled up in a piece of round air duct with a cap on both ends. have the coil offset from the walls, and a few tubes running the length of it inside the middle of the coil. fill the deadspace with sand or water and you have a heat battery. I think the main flaw of the sand test in this video is that the whole thing is so long. you're not concentrating the heat in the sand, you're just using the sand as a mid stage between the room and the pipe. by packing it all into a smaller space, and swapping to a vertical setup, it'll allow the system to create a draft to more effectively dump that heat back into the room when the heater itself isn't running. After all, in the end we're trying to keep the heat in the room.
Heat batteries improve efficiency by keeping the heat around and releasing it over time, leading to the heater needing to be run less. I bet with the right setup reclaiming the exhaust heat like this would probably improve the overall system efficiency by quite a bit.
Man, this video is awesome, you are excellent! I have just one suggestion to you: reverse direction of fan to blow air inside housing, and air must go out closest to the heater. This way is more effective (counter-current exchanger).
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Well said at the end! Our country is becoming a joke, you can't even fish, hunt, live off the land like a hermit without huge costs. I think its rather sad that someone if they choose to can't live truly free in a shack some place or even do it recreationally from time to time without mega amounts of money. I know we only have so much land and resources but i feel not many would truly want to live and do this kinda of stuff anyway. People dont like effort these days and getting stuck in. Things like fishing, burning own wood, heck even using the river (seriously look up boat rules and licences) are good examples of how bad things are.
Yet to do those things is the most green thing you can do to help the environment yet we're not allowed. If it doesn't make sense foul play is at the heart. Cheers J
Canoes don't require a license, along with a gas tank and a Briggs and Stratton motor with an propeller shaft. However, I do fully understand what your saying. Plus you can't fit a family of 4 on a single canoe along with all your supplies, survival gear and clothes.