Chevy Silveraydo Pitman Arm, Idler Arm, Idler Arm Bracket
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- This is a video of me changing the Pitman Arm, Idler Arm, and Idler Arm bracket in my 2006 Chevy Suburban. (GMT 800)
This process should be very similar for all GMT 800 half ton trucks and SUV's and not too much different on the 3/4 ton models.
This includes the Chevy Tahoe, Chevy Suburban, Chevy Avalanche, GMC Yukon, GMC Yukon XL, and Cadillac Escalade.
For AC Delco Professional Parts
The Idler Arm is part number 45C1120
I couldn't find that part in stock anywhere. Just the lower advantage model which I was advised to stay away from.
So I got the MOOG HD part # K6534HD here:
amzn.to/2Zz1Ccw
The AC Delco Pitman arm itself is part # 45C0069 and I got it here:
amzn.to/3w2q0Q8
Finally the idler arm bracket is AC Delco part # 45C1123 and I got it here:
amzn.to/2ZJIEAn
Videos like this have saved me thousands of dollars and headache of doing repairs like this blind
Once you do this, you'll never take apart old parts without doing this: power wire brush the nut and bolt end paying attention to cleaning the bilt thread ends. When you break the nut free and begin taking the nut off, you won't be fighting the crud left on the bolt threads and the nut. I'm telling you, you'll wonder why it took so long to figure this out. It makes the job easier and safer.
I do that exact procedure when accessible as well,works nicely
Exactly how my Dad taught me. Clean and lube threads before taking off nut. Also, if the nut becomes difficult to turn after a few revolutions, run it back in and clean and lube threads again. Love you Dad
here here! so true
One thing you left out was how to properly use a pitman arm puller. People often try to use them by only turning the bolt. This will damage the puller. And many times wont remove the arm. Also greatly reduce tool life. Tighten the bolt good and tight. Smack the head of bolt 2 to 3 times with a hammer. Tighten bolt again. Smack with hammer. Repeat until its off. Dont go crazy with the hammer. Just a couple good hits. If you dont get any looseness in bolt hit a bit harder. Shock from the hammer added to pulling of puller is what gets it. Little bits at a time. And make sure to keep the bolt clean and well lubed. Getting a siezed pitman arm puller off can be loads of fun, especially if you dont have a cutting torch.
Just figured that trick out tonight. Good advice!👍
had a hard time taking my pitman arm off, just did this trick and it popped off !
I always do a ton of research when ever I tackle a project. doing mechanical work for thirty years preparation is everything to a smooth and complete job .
See my trick. // 2 slashes with a cut off wheel at thick part of pitman will allow you to pop it off easily. ( Note ) Do not cut it to deeply and cut the spines of the pump.
👍👍👍
thanks for sharing that. I'm about to dive in to a pitman , idler arm and bracket job on my 01 Silverado. break out the PB Blaster, and for god's sake an impact! Wrench? what's that
For anyone who needs to see this comment.. Rent a small truck pitman arm separator. I exploded a Oriellys one… Also the correct socket for the steering box nut (atleast for me) was a 33mm socket. Good video by the way. Thank you sir. 🫡
Well done video man! Gave me the confidence I needed to go tackle this job. My pop was a heavy line tech for 40 years, recently passed. I’m excited to use the tools he left me, BLESSINGS! Keep them coming!!!
Thanks, I have a complete front-end joint replacement kit for my 2005 Silverado Club cab and will note the way and caution you used during repairs, I'm also doing both front-end bearings. Fun to be had during this process!
Watched several other vids..yours had several details that made the difference for me..Went and bought the exact Maddox puller set since mine was outdated and failing..Thanks for the effort..
Nicely done, BIG thumbs up and kudos for being down to earth; keep the videos rolling. Thank You For that.
Thank you for this video bro. Girlfriend's pitman arm broke this morning on a 06' Sierra and lucky enough I know now what's wrong and how to fix it!
Part way through this on my 2005 Silverado. Thanks for the tip on loosening the gearbox.
Man this is the realest video I've seen...thank you sir
Nice video, thanks For sharing, i was afraid to change those parts to My escalade by My self and mess the aligment, but after your video i feel confident..
Thank you for letting us watch. You saved me a lot of trouble.
Wow.looked fun. About to tackle the whole shebang today including ball joints and tir rods🙄
i hit my idler arm with a 4lb sledge for 2 hours straight and it didnt budge! tomorrow im getting pullers, torches and pickle forks im not playing! That pitman arm was the worst for me but i got it
kudos to you getting some of those camera angles. I know it is not easy!
this is exactly what i needed. 95 tahoe 2wd.. had to buy the maddox set as well. no where else had the right size pitman arm remover. THANK YOU
Will be doing all this and the actual steering box thanks for the video
U can get the whole kit off Detroit axle with a 10 year warranty. It comes with the Pitman arm, the idler arm and bracket tie rod and tie rod ends. Less then $100 free shipping
Do you have a link to this?
Those are cheap ass parts, they won’t last long
Dont waste your time on cheap chinese parts
Thank you sir for your upload. Very helpful. Going to tackle this on my 02 Escalade. Brakes Plus wouldn't align my SUV until those parts were fixed and a wheel bearing. They quoted me $1456 for everything. That's 1/3 of the price of my Escalade so I need to get my hands dirty.
Hope it helps out! It was a fairly easy job all things considered.
Very helpful, now I know what I’m in for and what to do. Thanks for posting,
Nice video, just ordered all the stuff. Don’t feel comfortable myself to do it so I’ll give my mechanic a call!
Also the acdelco idler arm is on rockauto
My steering wheel was centered but my truck pulled to the right. Hopefully this fixes that
Here is a mechanics trick. Before pulling Pitman arm. Try this.
( Cut off wheel ) You can slice 2 thin lines into old pitman in the middle ata slight angle. / / similar to above lines. Puller popped pitman like butter. 👍👍👍👍👍
your truck is much dryer down there than mine lol
Great job buddy thanks for the good video
Thanks so much doing the same thing on a 07 Duramax and couldn’t figure out how, again thanks so much really informative
This helped so much. Thank you!!
Check out the Dorman Rd line man just as beefy as kryptonite been running them on a 750 hp Duramax on 20x14 -44 offset tuning 35x12.50’s 4wd drive launch every weekend
Take out the sway bar if you don’t want to struggle 😂
A bad pitman arm and idler arm is the main culprit for wearing out tie rods. Upgrade those two and most won’t have many tie rod issues.
Thank you very needed appreciate your time and video
I may be wrong, but it appears to me that you may not have the pitman arm splines lined up correctly. The shaft doesn't quite seem to be on all the way. Also, that shaft had 3 or 4 threads showing past the nut when you took the old one off, but the new one does not. Great video but that is a concern. Not trying to criticize, just want you to consider the possibility that you may need to take a second look. I will be doing this soon.
That is the Moog pitman arms; they don't go all the way down. Lots of complaints around on the 'net about them going way back to 2006. You'd think Moog would fix that. I'm installing the Cognito PISK (Pitman Idler Arm Support Kit) which resolves the arms failing and you have to use OEM GM arms. Sent back the Moog's I'd ordered.
thank you for sharing
Hi Bruce, I have a Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 4x4. When I was looking at part, some of them say 4x4. Is there a difference in parts? Does it need to say 4x4? Thank you.
How tight did you tighten the arm to the idler? Did you go as tight as possible?
Great video man, I'll subscribe 👍
I did this now mybsteering wheel is crooked and dont know what happened, took in for alignment and they said its really off and they cant get it too 100% so they never did it 😢 idk what to do mow
Could you try removing and re clocking the pitman arm?
I just did the whole front in without locking out steering wheel with seatbelt and realized it is 90 degrees off to the passenger side once I finished, but drives straight. I will be taking my pitman arm off again and recentering steering wheel. I think it may have turned during installation or I didn't have my wheels straight, as I started repair with bolt missing from upper control arm causing all this to be replaced. I'll let you know what I find out, unless you fixed yours already.
Damn that intro
i learned from Yours mistakes Thx
I have 2001 chevy express 1500 when l step on the beark it pulling to.the right
Where you buy ac delco parts
I need change the same parts for my Tahoe 2003
Nice video 👍, do you happen to know the size of the zirk fitting for the idler arm? Can't seem to find the correct one to grease it
It just takes the standard grease gun that I have.
How’d you bend the Pitman puller !!! Help lol
What kind of puller is that on the centerlink
What the part number for the pitman arm ?
The AC Delco Pitman arm itself is part # 45C0069 and I got it here:
amzn.to/3w2q0Q8
Hi, I have replaced all 3 parts, now it’s hard to turn the steering wheel, and it will not rebound back, have you had that problem?
I have not.
Howd that happen? Did u get it fixed?
Did you ever find out what your leak was? I have a small leak that looks very similar to yours. Curious to see what your issue was.
@@christopherledesma4504 I believe it's the steering box itself.
Can I get a list of tools need to do this job
There is one in the video around the 2 minute mark.
I’m replacing my pitman arm on my lml duramax and can’t get a socket on either. My centerlink is out of the truck right now. Should I put the centerlink on and tighten everything down like idler arm and tirods then lower the truck so when I crank the pitman nut it won’t turn the shaft?
Do you have a wrench big enough to fit? If you do, I would try it. If not, I believe you can remove the entire steering box from the steering shaft if necessary.
Nice to hear from a Duramax owner!
I've just got a 5.3 like a peasant.
Remove a sway bar 4 Bolts Plus the end links gives you way more clearance to get this done
Did anyone notice his Chevy had over 316K miles on it?
need alignment after replacing this ?
I did not as the pitman can only go one one way.
Are these parts still holding up well?
Yup! I didn't doubt the AC Delco but the Moog has had no issues. We drove in some rough places over the last year as well.
@@bruceyyyyy Thanks for the response. I ended up getting a GM genuine idler and bracket assembly for $120. Then got the delco professional pitman arm. Hoping it holds up and gets rid of the slop in the steering. I’ll be adjusting the gearbox worm gear as well
@@jacobn3160 moog makes decent parts for half the price. Just because it’s more expensive doesn’t necessarily make it better. ACDelco is a steel product as well as moog. Steel is steel.
I replaced all my tie rods inner and outer. Pitman and idler. Steering box and upper Steering shaft.
My truck was aligned, but the Steering is still loose. Steering wheel has a lot of slop.
Will replacing idler bracket help. It's the only part that wasn't replaced
@@fourspeedSSDid you get a new rag joint for that steering shaft? Those go bad often.
You need an alignment after this repair?
I did not.
@@bruceyyyyy sweet, how did you check to see if you needed a 3 spline vs a 4 spline pitman arm
Pure dumb luck. I believe the HDs got 3 spline but even that I've seen mixed results. Everything is so old anymore it could be either.
How do I know which one I have? 06 z71
It should be the same one as shown here. This was an 06 Z71.
Lmao at begining you were talking about the brands and stated kryptonite is a good brand basically. You said its a little more expensive lol. You must be joking cause i found ac delco pitman arm to be about $60 to $80 and kryptonite $500 or $600. Thats far from a little.
I've heard nothing but good things.
If someone's got that kinda cash to drop more power to them.
@@bruceyyyyy oh i agree. Although i think its ridiculous to have to be rich in order to have decent things
AC Delco parts are probably made in China now, so I would not expect them to last long.
What is it with guys that are adamant about using quality parts (Moog/AC Delco) but buy their tools at Harbor Freight? Cheap chinese junk tools that fail constantly. You'll use your tools forever. Buy decent, American tools, boys. You'll regret HF crap tools.
To be fair to harbor freight here: their stuff didn't break, the Amazon special did.
But as far as not using US made stuff:
Since the parts nor the truck were made in the US to begin with I guess I decided it was appropriate to stick with the theme.
If a steering component fails when your doing 70mph it can be deadly. If that harbor freight puller breaks removing a pitman arm its an inconvenience. For a diy'er that may only use a job specific tool once or twice I'm not springing for Snap On.
Will a bad pitman arm and idler arm make a clunking noise when going over bumps
I think it's definitely possible but not definitive.
Will this be the same parts for a 2007 chevy tahoe
That's a different generation than shown here. I believe the 2007 Tahoe has a rack and pinion as opposed to a steering box.