My father was a mechanic for many, many years of his life. He used to primarily do wheel alignments. I would go into the shop on the weekends and after work, and I always remember watching him doing alignments manually. There was this pit, with a rack that you could pull a car onto so the front half was completely accessible, and then he would mount these reflectors on the wheels, turn a spot-light on, and it would reflect the beam of light to a gauge at the front of the pit, which would give you camber and toe readings. I know it was a John Bean product (because his signature was on it) and there was this section on the front called "Mathematics of Alignments" which had all kinds of formulas and information for the figuring out the alignment angles. It was way over my head at the time (I was in the eight grade, I think). Decades later, and I am replacing the entire front end of my car (crossmember, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar bushings and links, ball joints, and wheel bearings (probably the whole hub and knuckle, tbh). However, I live an hour's drive away from the nearest place that does alignments. Then I got to thinking about my dad and how he used to do this stuff and figure it out by hand and I reasoned that there must be some way that one can do this yourself without thousands of dollars of equipment or hundreds of thousands of dollars in specialized computers. So I started researching it and here I am. Rest in peace, old man! You've taught me more than you will ever know.
About that expensive equipment in shops - every time I've taken a car to the local professional shop with modern equipment to get a wheel alignment, they've done a shitty job. Either car pulls to one side or the wheel isn't straight. And it's 100€ a pop. What good is all this expensive equipment if the result is crap?
I wish I grew up doing stuff like this! my partner grew up on the rez was fixing tractors, trucks, cars everything learned by himself and friends from watching the old uncles and mostly trial and error and they had a ton of fun working on their own vehicles together, pranking each other etc!! Gonna try learn how to replace some parts and then use thia method for alignment on my 2007 Cobalt with his help and experience! hoping the stars align for it!!
"Go to the local Bank, they can explain the good in the expensive equipment with poor quality. Might be they end up ditching the question, but they know the answer."@@JayMaverick
@@S-O-T Plus add a little windage for not being able to go up to the half-height of the tire, at least on most sedans. Ex. if you can only go up 1/4 height then set 1/16" toe-in to get a 1/8" spec. On my cars I get maybe 1/3 height, so not a big difference.
Question I have lifted truck and the shop did alignment and I can see the toe is out , i mesure and is 1/4 different out , rear front tires 84 , front 84 1/4 the difference is to much ? The shop said a is ok but I can see the tire is out
@@puggles56 Rick, most shops with all the fancy laser alignment rigs, still only do toe in adjaustments on the front and rears... on my car, you can rotate the strut mounts to change caster and camber angle but you gotta loosen 4 nuts, drop the strut slightly and rotate it.. they dont want to be bothered and will tell most people its not adjustable..
Nice video pretty much explains what's going on in the front end. I am 60 years old auto mechanic my whole life I went to school for front end alignment Auto and Diesel. Your videos shows what's going on. With this method even if it is not perfect but if you get it as close as you can you're probably doing a better job then the new guy at the repair shop setting the tow and letting it go. All you Old-Timers know what I mean by that phrase. Pretty much you'll be close enough and will stop wearing out tires thumbs up my friend👍
Great video! My only suggestion would be to find center on the vehicle, use a plumb bob and measure off each tire to center. This is because one tire may be out more than the other. And when your tolerance is 1/16th, every 1/32 counts.
This makes sense. Thank you. I hope to be able (financially) to buy replacement outer tie rod ends for my car, but I don't want to try to fit in the cost of a shop's alignment. I don't own a plumb bob, but if I can't afford one, I could do a makeshift plumb bob perhaps. The challenge would be making whatever pointed thing hang from the string. However I see one issue: You'd have to make sure the vehicle is on level ground from side to side. If you're not, the plumb bob will hang off center.
You'd need to find a center between front and rear wheels in order to be accurate, because your other parts might be out for a few mm's, enough to throw you out of true center.
Now, that really help to make this video to have sense and logic; while watching the video my logic kept telling me, how does he know, how much toe in, he will have to adjust because each tire could be off already. And without a point of reference, it could get worst and worst. I'm used to doing it on a line alongside the car to tell the difference between the tire's angles. But yes, your suggestion help clear up this technique a lot that the uploader did not mention. Thanks
Thanks for the demo! I tried the tape measure, but I didn't want to hassle my wife to come out and hold one end while I did math. So I used a long piece of trimmed 1/2" x 1" wood, with a screw through one end with just enough screw poking out of one end to hook into a tread. Using the 2nd inner treads, I was able to reach over and hook on to the other side easily, then mark the wood on the other corresponding tread. Went to the backside, did the same. Now you have two marks on the wood who's difference you can now easily measure. A lot easier than a floppy tape measure and having to read that tape measure down to a 32nd of an inch while under your car!
Man you could have just taped the tape measure to tire but a great idea I'll use it on something but I'm putting a frontend on for the first time now that I've watched these video I feel like a pro man I got right angle battery drill 20 volt and a electric impact wrench and I'm ready to replace that explorer whole front end
This is great i had all the manual pre digital and computer added equipment at a garage right beside a high tech alignment and frame shop. They often brought me jobs on cars that drove bad for them after the computer alignments. I straighten the cars out just fine. I told one of the guys from there "just cause you have a computer doesn't mean you must stop thinking ". :-)
Dude I had my truck aligned on a computer alignment machine. They couldn't get it right after 2 tries, so I gave up. It rode worse after the "alignment" than before I took it to them. Now I'm trying it at home. Maybe I'll get it right. 'Cause they sure couldn't.
@@david9783 yes you can do that if you don't have someone to hold it from the back tyre to the front , then adjust it and make sure the front outer part of tyre is touching both sides cross the the tyres...always leave a little tiny space between the front edge of the wheel where the line comes in contact with the tyre..hope that helps
@@david9783 I was a alignment technician/ auto mechanic for 22 years I always use the cord after doing front ends and when it goes on the machine nothing else needed to be done..
Also what works really good it's a couple of commercial vinyl tiles used as turntables, With the polished sides facing each other under the tires, done it many times with good results.
Add some grease between the plates for a smooth slick turn. A trick we used in high school auto shop on the old school manual alignment rack back in the Stone Age.
As one viewer mentioned, loosen off the rubber boot clamps before you start spinning anything. This keeps the boot from getting twisted up as you turn the adjusting shaft. You could even use a silver Sharpie marker to put a reference mark where the original boot position was if you’re concerned about it sliding too far away from it’s original position on the shaft.
Sorry Alvin, I have to disagree with you. If it’s a factory pinched clamp you would not be able to loosen it. Most vehicles have removable clamps, so what’s wrong with sliding the clamp off and keeping the rubber from twisting up? Is it the little bit of extra work that you are afraid of?
@@LetricShave Afraid of work, na, not me lol. But we will agree to disagree. We all have our own little ways but we're shooting for the same results. For me, if I can cut cost on a clamp that doesn't have to be removed and a boot that is in perfect condition, I won't remove it if it's not necessary and doesn't impede to results.
@@alvinf1275 What Larry is saying is to loosen the clamp so that the rubber boot doesn't spin when turning the tie rod. If the boot is old and dry, it could tear when the tie rod is spun.
@@lavenderseedandworms I'll save u all some time, argument and money, 2 times a year wipe those boots down with 303. Get u a dollar store pack of wet wipes, squeeze the water etc out, pour in a few table spoons of 303 in the pack or remove and put in a freezer bag. Wipe them down a time or 2 and they'll last forever. I try to tell customers this in shop. I've seen so many ppl spend alot of money on boots, air shocks, etc and just put them on. It takes less than 30 seconds to treat them so the rubber will last and be pliable and never dry out. I do this with all rubber, plastic etc. I do this to air springs on Kenworth, tires etc. If u can when new spray or wipe inside and out with a dose of 303. I've had same air bags, tires, wipers, parts on semi and autos for years and decades. Things like PS lines, brake lines, fuel lines are all as cheaply made as possible. A lil bit if care makes the difference between them rusting in a few months to lasting years. I live in a Salt locale so it's necessary. Even if u live in FL, if next to ocean, it'll rust. If u use wipes the 303 will last alot longer.
That method works just fine for adjusting basic toe in settings. However, it will not center the steering wheel if it isn't already straight. Also, a person would want to make sure the bellows boots are back straight after turning the tie rods, i take the clamps loose first and shoot a little wd in there with the straw before turning them. Good vid!
If you took note of your steering wheel centre or off centre position you can determine which wheel to adjust. Doing this incrementally and checking the steering wheel as you go will sort it. Done this for years.
@@nigelmitchell351 so if you need to steer left to go straight, it’s the right side that’s pulling you that way, or do I have that backwards? What about the other adjustments?
@@gregorykusiak5424 Hi Greg, if you're sure your car is not bent, the first thing I would look at is your tyre wear, outer edges of each front tyre should show approximately even wear. Then measure your toe in or out as described in this video.Then, from your analogy you should adjust in increments of no more than half a turn on the track adjusters to turn the car to the left. This should, on a totally flat surface, put your steering wheel straight when driving straight. ATB, Mitch.
That's the method I use. Hold the tape measure in the tread with some duct tape and take readings across the front and rear of the tyres - move the car forwards and re-check measurements. If the steering wheel is slightly off centre, count the threads on each tie rod and by adjusting just one side it is possible to correct the steering and achieve the desired toe - I prefer just a slight toe-in. After any adjustment move the vehicle and re-check the measurements. I've done this on my Passat, the steering wheel is now spot on and tyres which were previously wearing badly have been replaced and the new ones are now wearing evenly across the treads.
Bit of a tip you should jack the wheel off the ground to spin it and use chalk and scribe to mark a true center line, tread can be off centre or the wheel could have a slight amount of run out and a true centre will find any problems and give better results for little extra effort
🙌🏽🙌🏽 Thank you! My tie rods were loose after being at a shop for brakes and paying them all my money. They didn’t even do the brakes. 😤 But, I didn’t have any more money for figuring out what was wrong with my car. I’ve been googling videos like wild trying to get my car back to drivable. Thank you for explaining this to me in a way I can understand it.
I figured this out myself, decades ago. Had a Chister minivan. The back tires were cupped so bad it would howl on the highway. Did the wheel bearings first. Which was a waste. I found out the rear wheels were closer together than the front. The rears were toed in considerably. I made shims out of a tin can and corrected the toe in. Aligned the front using a similar technique as the video. Bought a cheap set of tires at a farm store for under $200. The fronts lasted 106k and the rears 143k. Gave me great confidence that I could do my own alignments.
I also used to do this way back with a measuring tape, you need to use a reference point usually found under the front cross member ( usually a hole ) to adjust your toe DIY style. Make sure your tires are properly inflated before you start adjustments. Measure that right tire tread location to the center of that reference point and do the same with the left tire, then make your adjustments. Don't forget to tighten that jam nut when done. I now prefer to take my vehicles to a wheel alignment shop for $69.99. I know it's dead on.
I've diy a couple times with great results. Last month decided to spend and have it done..waited 3 weeks and spent$150 at best shop in town and the steering wheel is still a little pointed to left. So you know..DIY or DIE. Not taking it back..drive there..wait.. maybe it's right but..
Take it to a shop and more often than you will be hit up with you will need to replace this or that.....and that may be the case.....but then again it may just be this simple adjustment......thx for sharing bro, most of us are just struggling to get from dawn to dusk and this really helps :)
This is exactly how I fixed the alignment on my 87 Chevette. My friends thought I got lucky, I just thought it made sense. Glad to see I’m not the only one. Lol.
My toe angle tools are as follows. 1 x wooden dowel (or old brush handle) about 1.2 to 1.3 metres long and 25 or 30mm dia, one end cut to a 10mm diameter tip, other end flat end but one side planed to provide a flat tapered surface. 1 x 300mm ruler. The ruler is held on the flat tapered surface of the dowel with your thumb holding it so that you can slide it to change the combined length. Place the 100mm tip of the dowel on wheel rim as far back as you can reach and slide the ruler so that the end of it is placed on the rim of the opposite wheel. Note the reading on the ruler where it passes the end of the dowel. Do the same for the forward parts of the wheel rims and note the difference. Your should multiply by a suitable factor to get a toe-in reading for the full diameter of the wheel: perhap about 1.5 depending upon the distance between your measurement points.
You could improve accuracy of measurement more of you mark the two points with some paint, or tippex, and then push your car in forward or backward direction until those two marks appear at the rear, so you can now measure more accurate as this would take away any element of any wheel being slightly warped, or some other difference in tyre pattern . Overall its a good basic way to align. You also need around 1 degree toe in
@@danielplumley2649 Instead of comparing front tires to back tires, which can lead to some inaccurate measurements due to tire warping, and other things, you want to compare the front tires to the front tires. So in other words, when measuring between the points, mark where the tape measure starts and ends on the tires. Then put your car in drive or reverse (or neutral and push it) until those 2 points are facing the back of the car. So turn the tires until they have spun 180°. Then measure between the points again.
I do this on my cars. It is very sensitive, as shown here where 1/2 turn each side changes toe-in by ~1/8". I doubt a laser alignment could beat that, plus some who worked alignment said techs often kick the mirrors to get an acceptable printout without even touching the car's adjusters. It changes over time after several years anyway as parts wear and ride height sags. Easiest if your front tires have straight channels. Hardest for me is recruiting a family member to hold the tape measure. I've tried taping it to the tire, but falls off or shifts (stickier tape!). Go up as high as you can on the aft side without hitting an obstruction, then the same height across the fwd track. If new, tight parts, I set 1/16" toe-in for RWD (or toe-out for FWD). As shown, you don't need to turn the adjusters much to get a big effect. Usually need to drive and repeat to get the steering wheel perfectly centered. A sanity check is to hold a straight-edge along the front and sight at the rears. Should hit ~1" inward on the rear tire if FWD (slight toe-out), if your front and rear tracks are the same width (most sedans). Repeat on other side. That method is also amazingly sensitive and might even replace the tape-measure method. I check camber by holding a carpenter's level vertical against the tire. I set slight negative camber (tire leaning in at top). Caster can't be adjusted on many cars. On my 1960's Mopars, one sets the most caster you can, while still holding camber, even using offset upper control arm bushings. The factory design was for bias-ply tires which deflect aft more than radials. You want the projected line thru the ball joints to hit the asphalt in front of the tire contact patch while driving for a "shopping cart wheel" effect (so front wheels want to follow the body direction), but not too much or turning will be harder. On older cars with turnbuckle adjusters, be sure to center the ball-joints on the inner and outer tie-rods so they can't bind in operation. No worries with newer cars with rack & pinion like shown in video since the inner ball-joint which screws into the rack (behind rubber boot) can spin 360 deg axially.
@@lawrencedavidson6195 I do the tape measure alignments All the time and its Easy to keep it in the groove..I use clear 2 or 3 inch wide packing tape...tear off a 10 inch strip, place the tape measure end in the center of that strip, get a shop cloth and 1st wipe the dirt off the area on the tire, put the measure clip in the groove and press the tape onto the tire.. hold fine while i go to the other side for measurements..I even reuse the same taPE on the back side measurements..
I've always enjoyed adjusting the suspension alignment on old Mopars. It's easy to adjust. It's also why they are good to take to the track cars and drive it back home. I would adjust the front alignment on my 71 Charger right at the drag strip. Then set it back to drive home. Heck, I would change the axle ratio as well. Pull the 3.28 ratio (8 3/4 axles are like Ford 9-inch axles. The gears come out in one unit) and change it to 4.10 gears. Then change it back to the 3.28's. Old Mopars were definitely built to race!
cool video but did I miss something what if the driverside is out more than the passage side or vice versa. I saw you secured the steering wheel. but don't you need a center reference point to measure out from to see which is out or in more. either way, I will use this but I will find the center somehow thank you
Another trick is to count the number of available treads on each tie rod before you adjust anything. Ideally the number of threads should be almost the same either side
Went to the website listed on your alignment chart. They currently charge, $209.00 for a two panel alignment tool. Each alignment for my vehicles cost $121 to $151. That’s today. So two alignments at the lowest cost more than pays for it. That’s a no brainer. Great video, Thank you.
Great video! Very explanatory. I still say take it to the shop but from my experience here is something you can do if it is way off and not able to drive if you have just changed the tie rod end... I found that counting the turns is a hit or miss because the new tie rod end part might be off by a few millimeter. 1. Jack up front of vehicle (safely).2. straighten steering wheel. 3.take off tires and release locking nut on tie rod end...4. remove tie rod end from steering knuckle (do not unscrew from inner tie rod. 5. go back in vehicle confirm steering is still straight adjust if necessary. 6. you have full control to straighten the steering wheel with your eyes by looking at it with the front of the vehicle, straighten them 7. Get under car and you will find that the tie rod end is not lined up with the hole in the steering knuckle make sure the tie rod end is at a perfect 90° angle. adjust to make it pop right in to the steering knuckle without moving that tire then tighten the locking nut , you will only be off by a small amount of degrees but able to drive to the shop without tires screeching or crab walking lol. do this to the to the other side.. from a point of view just looking at the car you should have a steering wheel that is straight with tires that are straight.
Actually, if neither of the tires have a different level of inflation, or even a different inflated radius, the measurement isn’t of the tire, or between the tires… What you are aligning is the difference between the front of the tire and the back of the tire when both tires have not moved. You could have completely different size tires this would still work, measuring across, tire to tire, again, because what ultimately being measured is the difference between the front of the tires in the back of the tires.
Bro ,ive been doing tape measure alignments for ages..its so simple and Everyone has the means to do it...I always use a marker though to 1st mark the default original setting position on the tieros and the baljoint its threaded to to if u goof up, u can go back and try again.. it also gives u a reference for whether u have turned a quarter/half or full turn..
Well, I noticed just looking at my car that I had an enormous amount of toe out, so set about fixing it using this method. I was confident that I had it right but on a long drive I felt it was pulling to the near side a bit too much. So I took it to a local garage for a test on their Hunter machine, telling them that I'd been having a go myself. They came back to me with a print out and said it was spot on and asked me how I'd done it.
I was a Hunter rep before buying a shop with an A111 that I was very familliar with. Hunter makes the most accurate equipment. Today most of the time a car pulling one way or another is from tires, most of the time you swap the tires left to right, the pull will go away.
A neighbour used to do his own wheel alignments on his drive at home ..Get a good wrench to move the bolts on the arms I've encountered a few seized ones might need a blow lamp..I've changed a few tie rod ends but never really done the separate job of alignment
Yeah your right . That will get you pretty close . So you can get to the shop without tearing your tires up. Gotta do that on my C10 . Replaced everything on my front end and it way off now.
Hahaha I took my shitbox for a drive after putting on new parts and not having old measurements due to having to cut parts etc and the thing pretty much crab walked lmao
I'm going to do this tomorrow. This is really good info. Recently I changed steering knuckles and other suspensions parts which required removing the tie rod from the knuckle... Now my wheel is off center. Hopefully this helps
If you're not sure that both wheels aren't with the same orientation, unbolt tie rod end completely and then screw in with same number of turns on both sides - and viola, you have a base line :-)
Thank you, I put a new steering rack and pinion on. I was going to take it in for a $100 alignment. I did it myself in under an hour. Hope it works??? I was off by 3/4" from the front of the tire to the back of the tire when I started...... Now my front and back measurements are on the money!!!!!
I think when you tightened it back up, you changed the adjustment by turning the adjustment bar in a little bit, which would Toe the wheel in more. I think you need to hold the Adjusting bar with pliers on those lines and then tighten the nut. The tie rod end will only turn so far and it will stop. Not sure if it turned enough to matter though. Curious if your wheel is straight while driving. I think you would have to keep adjusting them on both sides to the left or right until you got the wheel straight while driving because I don't think their is anyway to set the wheel straight with this method. You could have the steering wheel Locked down when you do this but, the correct percentage between the front and back of the wheels could be set correctly, but in multiple different directions I think which would change the setting on your steering wheel.
You are absolutely correct. You will need to make several adjustments and that is why you must take the weight off the tires or you will surely strip the threads. The basic idea is right though conventional steering is much easier than rack and pinion steering.
I use a telescopic paint roller handle on the insides of the front of the lip of wheels and then bring it around to the rear of the wheel and make sure there is 1/8 inch gap. You won't have variation from tire tread or rubber moving. Just brought one to get new tires installed they checked the alignment and refused to even adjust it because it wouldn't get any closer than I got it with a paint roller handle. Basically same concept just a little more precise
This works great just did it on my Lincoln town car drives perfect and straight steering wheel I just did the exact same measurements in front and back and seemed to work just fine
Проверенный метод, Я точно также два года назад себе делал, и очень удивился, что кто-то до этого тоже до думался, результат отличный, до регулировки, таким методом, резину сжирало за 15-20 тысяч километров
After you set the Towing correctly with a tape measure you then I have to fine-tune the steering wheel because it is hardly ever straight it may be slightly off you drive it and determine which way to turn the tire rods on each side . If your steering wheel is at 1 o’clock after the Towing is set correctly you then will have to adjust the right tire rod in a quarter of a turn and the left one out a quarter of a turn and then recheck the steering wheel and repeat this procedure until it’s straight
I just did this based on this video for the first time ever. It didn't work without assistance, as there it too much slop in my steering (1992 Montero/Pajero) and when adjusting the toe, it just moved the slop point whilst the steering wheel didn't move. The solution in my case was to get my wife to take up the slop in the steering wheel and then resist the movement as I adjusted the toe. I also ran a string line from the rear tyre to the front so I could see the difference between the front tyre and the string as I adjusted it. Saved some measurement time as it's tricky to get a tape measure between the wheels on this car.
I bungee a plastic 4' level on each wheel as high as I can to allow a tape to stretch across, makes holding the end on much easier and gives a more accurate measurement.
@Hank Bridges The 2 measurements are the reference. When both front of tire and rear of tire measurements are the same the tires are parallel to each other and if your frame isn't bent or your rear axle isn't skewed it also puts them parallel with the rear tires. Works perfect and I don't have to buy anything from EBAY. You can also check with an 8' fluorescent bulb if the rear axle is in line with the front by touching off the 2 sidewalls of the rear tire and extending the bulb to the front tire. When the bulb is touching both tires on both sidewalls you know the front and rear tire are parallel, this method also works perfect on motorcycles. It's all about geometry.
I use a straight edge and a laser level. Then I drive the car close to a wall. I set up my level and laser pointer and mark the spot. Then I back up the car about 10 feet and set up the pointer again and mark the laser spot. I then turn the adjustments on the car so the spots line up. Of course I do the same procedure on both sides. I repeat the entire procedure two or three times until the dots line up perfectly. a little bit time consuming but is very accurate, I took the car to an alignment shop and the readings came out very close to what the spec are. Make sure you calibrate your laser pointer first by rotating it and making the necessary adjustments on the pointer. Of course this method only works as long as you can see the spots like when its a little bit dark ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------ - **Level**: Imagine a flat surface, like a table or a floor, where you would typically place objects. - **Laser Pointer**: Visualize a small device that emits a thin beam of light, used for pointing out objects or aligning things accurately.
To create this mental image: 1. Picture a flat surface, like a straight edge that you put on the wheel, in our case the wheel that you want to align 2. On top of this surface, place a small, handheld laser pointer. 3. Envision the laser pointer emitting a bright, focused beam of light that extends straight out from the device, creating a visible line or dot on the surface. This visualization can help you imagine a level with a laser pointer on top of it for tasks like aligning objects, checking for levelness, or highlighting specific points.
yep spot on, car was pulling left wear on inside right tyre, checked using your method 3/8" TOE OUT RESET 1/16" TOE IN car drives as straight as an arrow total time 20 minutes cost nothing! many thanks
Most tire shops don't know what they're doing as it is ,, , and when I get one wheel counter balanced,,,,, that tells me ,,,, they don't know what they're doing ,,,,, so this is a good start to help the alignment guys out ,,,,, AS I WATCH ,,,,, Les Schwab
This made a huge difference. I just changed both tie rods and of course alignment was off. Did this and car running straight with no hands on wheel. My only thing is, my steering wheel is still off center even though i did strap it down with seatbelt.
I use to do that until I discovered a string alignment. I'm sure there are videos on it. A string goes the whole way around the car across the middle of the tire. It's easier to visualize and also get your steering wheel straight. No need holding a tape. With all front end work I do a string alignment then send them off to get it done with a machine. Any control arm work the castor and camber needs adjusted. With just tierods and/or pitman arm you can get away with just toe-in. Another thing is you need good tires. If you have poor tires you will get poor results. Do your work, put good tires on, adjust it close enough then go get a professional alignment. It's worth the $75.
@@waynesmith1704but wouldn’t you need the same tire width on the front and back for the string method to work? If you have 255 tires on the front and 275 tires on the rear wouldn’t that throw the string method off?
Front wheels, should not be parallel in all cars, you should refers to car's spec. by the way, generally in front wheel cars, due to pulling force of front wheels, front tires tends to becomes toe in. so to compensate this phenomenon, they must have a little toe out angle in not driving condition.
My pops was born in 1926 he did his own alinements in the driveway with a ruler. I think he used a level and a string. Maybe I don't remember that day that well. But I did work on cars and trucks with him.
Very soft spoken, This is gonna teach my crew lots! Thank you sir! Also feedback, Id invest in a mic that attaches to your shirt, its kinda of hard to hear you. Other than that great video!
That is great, easy to do. But what if the tread on the tires are not perfectly straight. Would give a false reading. On some cheap tires if you spin the tire you can see it is not equal. How about measuring from the wheel on front and on back. Thanks for sharing.
There is a better way to get an accurate and accurate alignment of the tires of the car, which is to use a string and connect it from the rear tire to the front tire, so that it touches the outer edge of each tire, and then decide if you need to move the tire inward or outward
This can fuck you up if you have a vehicle that has tie rods on all 4. Because if you're off in the rear too, it will throw off the front. Also, if your wheelbase is not the same in the front/rear that will also not work because it will not be square.
Nope nope nope! Back when I'd do my own front end alignment on my old Corsica, I found the front tires were over an inch further apart than the rear tires. NEVER assume your vehicle's geometry is symmetrical from the front to the back.
You should know that if the four points of the front and rear tires do not touch the taut thread, then there will be no exact alignment of the wheels. If the direction of the rear tires is different from the front, no matter how hard you try, there will be no exact alignment, so this process is the best, through which you can direct even the tire back through
@@lynskeyti9940 Then you give it a treat and tell it to go lay down. lolol.... It means your rear toe either has a positive or negative thrust angle. Meaning you need to have the toe aligned.
I aligned a 1967 VW bug with broomsticks once then took it to a dealer and they said it was correctly aligned. This is back in the 1970's when I was a mechanic in Germany and Texas. Once asked to go work at VW when I lived in Texas. 1980's.
Using this method- If 1 wheel is strait and ok and 1 is out of alignment, you won't know which is which because you have no reference to a fixed or parallel structure. The string method is more accurate.
You'd have more precise measurements by measuring off the rotors with the wheels off and off the ground. I've done this method, but off the rotors with the wheels off and jacked up. What I did was take the wheels off, took two carpenter squares held on against the rotors by two lugs flat position parallel to the ground. This left the squares sticking out from front to back to measure off of. Being off the ground won't effect toe, makes it real easy to adjust the tie rods, quicker to measure and more precise. Most carpenter squares are plenty flat enough to use, they generally have close enough tolerances within a couple 1000's of an inch in most cases... they're good enough for toe anyways.
Couldn't agree more. The worst rotor is probably more precise than the best tire. I use a set of tools that fit just about any bolt patttern and bolt right onto each rotor. Got them from a company called TMR Customs.
For a more accurate measurment, jack up one wheel and have someone spin it while you scribe a line with a pocket knife or nail around the tire, use a brick or something to steady your scribe. let the car down and do it on the other side. Another check is with the car on the ground sight the side walls of the front tire to the back tire on both sides, line your eye up with the front tire like a rifle sight and see what you see. both sides should be the same.
I saw a farmer holding straight planks hard up onto the tyre walls and marking the point in front of car on the ground where the say 6 foot of plank rested. I imagine it needed to be a symmetrical match up for the other tyre . Long time ago . Hard to precisely and understandably word this stuff huh .
problem is once you jack it up and lower it again, u cant just go by those measurements becuz the vehicle Needs to settle and Roll at least 10 feet ,Then check the measurements..just jacking it up, rotating and lowering to check will give false readings becuz camber will be off a bit which affects toe, untill it rolls a bit and settles./
Good info & explain perfectly. Question ; i sale flooring so gave up the tape measure & use a lazier now. Can I do what you did by just going inside driver front tire to inside passenger & so forth to back side? Or is measuring from actual roughly middle tread as you did an important part? or just a way to hold end of tape measure.
This is great, it's not the money so much as the waiting time. Here's a thought, if it is 63 1/4" (maybe that was an 63 1/8", but dose not change the thought) on the front, and 62 3/4" on the rear, why not adjust each tire half the difference, so as to avoid the back and forth. So in the case of 63 1/4" take away 62 3/4" diff 1/2", adjust each tire 1/4". In case 2 where it is 63 1/8" front and 62 3/4" in rear diff 3/8" or 6/16", adjust each tire 3/16". Does that make sense?
You may save $90 now but it will cost you hundreds later when your tires wear out prematurely. You can’t get the precision you need with a tape measure. If you have lane departure or electric power steering you will also need to reset the steering angle sensor or you’ll cause problems that will cost you hundreds more on top of the premature tire wear. Somethings are best left to the professionals with proper equipment. If a tape measure did the job why are shops spending $60,000 to $70,000 on alignment equipment.
@@justiceforall8982 yeah no I do everything on my vehicles except alignments, transmission rebuilds, full motor rebuilds. Why? Because higher quality measurement tools improve your accuracy. This is why machinists with tighter tolerances get paid more.
Yo!! Amateur wrencher here mostly just matinence and few other things here and there but this is the first time ever seeing a fookin visegrip cresent wrench!!! Feel like I've wasted so much time trying too keep them on bolts or nuts 😂
Oh dear oh dear and all you tubers are falling for this, so tell me how do you know what the thrust angle is, wait you don’t , now if your car is driving to the left or right it is your thrust angle that causes this and not your front toe, thrust angle is set from the rear and must be set first before you set the front toe so good luck you tubers ,
My 98 and 99 crv’s have set camber. The hardest thing is to get the steering wheel centered. Other than that, my cars track better than any other car I’ve had with no unusual wear.
I was a Hunter rep, I ran the alignment shop at a 7 franchise dealer and later owned my own shop with an A-111 Hunter 4-wheel machine for many years. You assumed that the tires/rims are perfectly round with zero run out, very bad idea. 2nd, when making adjustments on these tie rods, you never loosened the tie rod boots and left them twisted. You should have sprayed penetrating oil on the tie rod nuts and the boot clamps and reset the boots/untwist after you were done. I'm sure you can figure out how to check to see if there is ANY runout in the tire/rim and illustrate that 1st in your next video. You also did this on a solid surface. When making any adjustment, you have asumed there are no loose components in the tie rod/rack assy. You should have checked and confirmed that 1st. Assuming your truck had a perfect front end, you should have driven your truck forward or back to recheck your numbers or put one of your tires over two slippery surfaces, like two kitchen cutting sheets with olive oil between them. Three of the frachises at the dealer were Porsche, Mercedes and Audi, I worked closely with their reps to solve many problems of customer issues over the years.
I've always had good luck setting the tow 1/8 of an inch narrower on the front measurement compared to the back measurement. How much do you put in it also depends on how worn out your front end components are.
True. My 1985 M-B shop manual is a bit fussy. They show a shop tool, rod which pushes the fwd side of the front tires apart to take up play before adjusting toe-in. I recall then you set 1/16" toe-in, like for a car with all new suspension parts. If worn tie-rod ends and ball-joints, better to set 1/8" toe-in if no such loading rod. That is for RWD cars. If FWD, you set slight toe-out since the front tires pull and thus rotate towards toe-in while driving. Ideally, the fronts will be exactly parallel when driving.
@@fvgc454ss only done for front, the rear you keep parallel. 4x4 or AWD take into consideration if full time or part time. Full time, set up as FWD vehicle with toe out. Part time set up as RWD, with toe in.
I am retired now, and have done this type of job many times. my method is to lock the steering wheel with a piece of 2"x 2", long enough to wedge it between the steering wheel and the floor. Then i start the job by loosening the two lock nuts. Next i cut another 2 bits of 2" x 2", and the length is 1" longer than the front wheel front to rear. I fix a piece horizontal to the outside of the wheel,and tie it to the wheel using bungie cord. I use my measuring tape, take a reading from the front then a reading at the rear, then proceed wit the steering adjustments, easy as pie.
Wow thank you for sharing how to do a wheel alignment. One day I will have a personal garage and work on my cars my self; why pay someone when you can do it yourself.
My father was a mechanic for many, many years of his life. He used to primarily do wheel alignments. I would go into the shop on the weekends and after work, and I always remember watching him doing alignments manually.
There was this pit, with a rack that you could pull a car onto so the front half was completely accessible, and then he would mount these reflectors on the wheels, turn a spot-light on, and it would reflect the beam of light to a gauge at the front of the pit, which would give you camber and toe readings. I know it was a John Bean product (because his signature was on it) and there was this section on the front called "Mathematics of Alignments" which had all kinds of formulas and information for the figuring out the alignment angles. It was way over my head at the time (I was in the eight grade, I think).
Decades later, and I am replacing the entire front end of my car (crossmember, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar bushings and links, ball joints, and wheel bearings (probably the whole hub and knuckle, tbh). However, I live an hour's drive away from the nearest place that does alignments.
Then I got to thinking about my dad and how he used to do this stuff and figure it out by hand and I reasoned that there must be some way that one can do this yourself without thousands of dollars of equipment or hundreds of thousands of dollars in specialized computers. So I started researching it and here I am.
Rest in peace, old man! You've taught me more than you will ever know.
Amen to that Brother 👍
About that expensive equipment in shops - every time I've taken a car to the local professional shop with modern equipment to get a wheel alignment, they've done a shitty job. Either car pulls to one side or the wheel isn't straight. And it's 100€ a pop.
What good is all this expensive equipment if the result is crap?
I wish I grew up doing stuff like this! my partner grew up on the rez was fixing tractors, trucks, cars everything learned by himself and friends from watching the old uncles and mostly trial and error and they had a ton of fun working on their own vehicles together, pranking each other etc!! Gonna try learn how to replace some parts and then use thia method for alignment on my 2007 Cobalt with his help and experience! hoping the stars align for it!!
"Go to the local Bank, they can explain the good in the expensive equipment with poor quality. Might be they end up ditching the question, but they know the answer."@@JayMaverick
You sure it wasn't made by Jim Beam ?😂
I have used this method for years. I never had an issue with uneven tire wear, and exceeded tire wear expectations.👍
@@S-O-T Plus add a little windage for not being able to go up to the half-height of the tire, at least on most sedans. Ex. if you can only go up 1/4 height then set 1/16" toe-in to get a 1/8" spec. On my cars I get maybe 1/3 height, so not a big difference.
... o of
Question I have lifted truck and the shop did alignment and I can see the toe is out , i mesure and is 1/4 different out , rear front tires 84 , front 84 1/4 the difference is to much ? The shop said a is ok but I can see the tire is out
Umm what about camber and castor adjust??? Was never even done!!
@@puggles56 Rick, most shops with all the fancy laser alignment rigs, still only do toe in adjaustments on the front and rears... on my car, you can rotate the strut mounts to change caster and camber angle but you gotta loosen 4 nuts, drop the strut slightly and rotate it.. they dont want to be bothered and will tell most people its not adjustable..
Nice video pretty much explains what's going on in the front end. I am 60 years old auto mechanic my whole life I went to school for front end alignment Auto and Diesel. Your videos shows what's going on. With this method even if it is not perfect but if you get it as close as you can you're probably doing a better job then the new guy at the repair shop setting the tow and letting it go. All you Old-Timers know what I mean by that phrase. Pretty much you'll be close enough and will stop wearing out tires thumbs up my friend👍
you talk well, but as an old mechanic, I answer that the CV Joint Boot should be replaced at the same time ..
@@dzacek008nice non sequitur. Take your meds
@dzacek008 cv's have been removed for weight reduction
Great video! My only suggestion would be to find center on the vehicle, use a plumb bob and measure off each tire to center. This is because one tire may be out more than the other. And when your tolerance is 1/16th, every 1/32 counts.
This makes sense. Thank you. I hope to be able (financially) to buy replacement outer tie rod ends for my car, but I don't want to try to fit in the cost of a shop's alignment. I don't own a plumb bob, but if I can't afford one, I could do a makeshift plumb bob perhaps. The challenge would be making whatever pointed thing hang from the string. However I see one issue: You'd have to make sure the vehicle is on level ground from side to side. If you're not, the plumb bob will hang off center.
You'd need to find a center between front and rear wheels in order to be accurate, because your other parts might be out for a few mm's, enough to throw you out of true center.
Now, that really help to make this video to have sense and logic; while watching the video my logic kept telling me, how does he know, how much toe in, he will have to adjust because each tire could be off already. And without a point of reference, it could get worst and worst. I'm used to doing it on a line alongside the car to tell the difference between the tire's angles. But yes, your suggestion help clear up this technique a lot that the uploader did not mention. Thanks
How are you finding true center of your vehicle? Also unless the vehicle is perfectly level, your plump bob will be out.
I believe if you check it will say that you're looking to get all 4 tires running true to each other or tracking together
Thanks for the demo! I tried the tape measure, but I didn't want to hassle my wife to come out and hold one end while I did math. So I used a long piece of trimmed 1/2" x 1" wood, with a screw through one end with just enough screw poking out of one end to hook into a tread. Using the 2nd inner treads, I was able to reach over and hook on to the other side easily, then mark the wood on the other corresponding tread. Went to the backside, did the same. Now you have two marks on the wood who's difference you can now easily measure. A lot easier than a floppy tape measure and having to read that tape measure down to a 32nd of an inch while under your car!
Man you could have just taped the tape measure to tire but a great idea I'll use it on something but I'm putting a frontend on for the first time now that I've watched these video I feel like a pro man I got right angle battery drill 20 volt and a electric impact wrench and I'm ready to replace that explorer whole front end
That's a really cool way of doing it especially if you have a few vehicles to do!
OP
0
smart!
Works great. I’ve been doing this for many years. 1/8” toe in for 32” tires on a RWD is just about right for good handling and good wear.
Nice work..
This is great i had all the manual pre digital and computer added equipment at a garage right beside a high tech alignment and frame shop. They often brought me jobs on cars that drove bad for them after the computer alignments. I straighten the cars out just fine. I told one of the guys from there "just cause you have a computer doesn't mean you must stop thinking ". :-)
Dude I had my truck aligned on a computer alignment machine. They couldn't get it right after 2 tries, so I gave up. It rode worse after the "alignment" than before I took it to them. Now I'm trying it at home. Maybe I'll get it right. 'Cause they sure couldn't.
Cording it is a good option as well
@@MrCoolvibeztv8079 Hey Itan, by cording do you mean wrapping a line all the way around the car?
@@david9783 yes you can do that if you don't have someone to hold it from the back tyre to the front , then adjust it and make sure the front outer part of tyre is touching both sides cross the the tyres...always leave a little tiny space between the front edge of the wheel where the line comes in contact with the tyre..hope that helps
@@david9783 I was a alignment technician/ auto mechanic for 22 years I always use the cord after doing front ends and when it goes on the machine nothing else needed to be done..
Thanks for sharing this with us. Even though some people are griping about little things most of us really appreciate this info.
Also what works really good it's a couple of commercial vinyl tiles used as turntables, With the polished sides facing each other under the tires, done it many times with good results.
I would imagine trash bags could work pretty good too
Add some grease between the plates for a smooth slick turn. A trick we used in high school auto shop on the old school manual alignment rack back in the Stone Age.
Aluminum foil
Anal ease works as well...
@@jscarter0110 I use Polythene shopping bags smeared with a little grease on the inside, doe`s the job and no mess.
As one viewer mentioned, loosen off the rubber boot clamps before you start spinning anything. This keeps the boot from getting twisted up as you turn the adjusting shaft. You could even use a silver Sharpie marker to put a reference mark where the original boot position was if you’re concerned about it sliding too far away from it’s original position on the shaft.
The boot clamps don't loosen, also he spun the boot with his hand. No need to remove the boot clamps and make things more complicated.
Sorry Alvin, I have to disagree with you. If it’s a factory pinched clamp you would not be able to loosen it. Most vehicles have removable clamps, so what’s wrong with sliding the clamp off and keeping the rubber from twisting up? Is it the little bit of extra work that you are afraid of?
@@LetricShave Afraid of work, na, not me lol. But we will agree to disagree. We all have our own little ways but we're shooting for the same results.
For me, if I can cut cost on a clamp that doesn't have to be removed and a boot that is in perfect condition, I won't remove it if it's not necessary and doesn't impede to results.
@@alvinf1275 What Larry is saying is to loosen the clamp so that the rubber boot doesn't spin when turning the tie rod. If the boot is old and dry, it could tear when the tie rod is spun.
@@lavenderseedandworms I'll save u all some time, argument and money, 2 times a year wipe those boots down with 303. Get u a dollar store pack of wet wipes, squeeze the water etc out, pour in a few table spoons of 303 in the pack or remove and put in a freezer bag. Wipe them down a time or 2 and they'll last forever. I try to tell customers this in shop. I've seen so many ppl spend alot of money on boots, air shocks, etc and just put them on. It takes less than 30 seconds to treat them so the rubber will last and be pliable and never dry out. I do this with all rubber, plastic etc. I do this to air springs on Kenworth, tires etc. If u can when new spray or wipe inside and out with a dose of 303. I've had same air bags, tires, wipers, parts on semi and autos for years and decades. Things like PS lines, brake lines, fuel lines are all as cheaply made as possible. A lil bit if care makes the difference between them rusting in a few months to lasting years. I live in a Salt locale so it's necessary. Even if u live in FL, if next to ocean, it'll rust. If u use wipes the 303 will last alot longer.
That method works just fine for adjusting basic toe in settings. However, it will not center the steering wheel if it isn't already straight. Also, a person would want to make sure the bellows boots are back straight after turning the tie rods, i take the clamps loose first and shoot a little wd in there with the straw before turning them. Good vid!
If you took note of your steering wheel centre or off centre position you can determine which wheel to adjust. Doing this incrementally and checking the steering wheel as you go will sort it. Done this for years.
@@nigelmitchell351 so if you need to steer left to go straight, it’s the right side that’s pulling you that way, or do I have that backwards? What about the other adjustments?
@@gregorykusiak5424 Hi Greg, if you're sure your car is not bent, the first thing I would look at is your tyre wear, outer edges of each front tyre should show approximately even wear. Then measure your toe in or out as described in this video.Then, from your analogy you should adjust in increments of no more than half a turn on the track adjusters to turn the car to the left.
This should, on a totally flat surface, put your steering wheel straight when driving straight. ATB, Mitch.
Tim Russell you read my mind
Wow, it pays to read a few comments, great information to know, thanks
That's the method I use. Hold the tape measure in the tread with some duct tape and take readings across the front and rear of the tyres - move the car forwards and re-check measurements. If the steering wheel is slightly off centre, count the threads on each tie rod and by adjusting just one side it is possible to correct the steering and achieve the desired toe - I prefer just a slight toe-in. After any adjustment move the vehicle and re-check the measurements.
I've done this on my Passat, the steering wheel is now spot on and tyres which were previously wearing badly have been replaced and the new ones are now wearing evenly across the treads.
Bit of a tip you should jack the wheel off the ground to spin it and use chalk and scribe to mark a true center line, tread can be off centre or the wheel could have a slight amount of run out and a true centre will find any problems and give better results for little extra effort
🙌🏽🙌🏽 Thank you! My tie rods were loose after being at a shop for brakes and paying them all my money. They didn’t even do the brakes. 😤
But, I didn’t have any more money for figuring out what was wrong with my car. I’ve been googling videos like wild trying to get my car back to drivable. Thank you for explaining this to me in a way I can understand it.
Easy to follow. Quick and to the point without any extra fluff. Thanks and great job.
You sir are a saint and a scholar.
Most strategic and straightforward video I have seen on the subject.
😊
I figured this out myself, decades ago. Had a Chister minivan. The back tires were cupped so bad it would howl on the highway. Did the wheel bearings first. Which was a waste. I found out the rear wheels were closer together than the front. The rears were toed in considerably. I made shims out of a tin can and corrected the toe in. Aligned the front using a similar technique as the video. Bought a cheap set of tires at a farm store for under $200. The fronts lasted 106k and the rears 143k. Gave me great confidence that I could do my own alignments.
SMART move on the shims! Rear toe is critical on any front or four wheel drive vehicle for that exact reason.
I also used to do this way back with a measuring tape, you need to use a reference point usually found under the front cross member ( usually a hole ) to adjust your toe DIY style. Make sure your tires are properly inflated before you start adjustments. Measure that right tire tread location to the center of that reference point and do the same with the left tire, then make your adjustments. Don't forget to tighten that jam nut when done. I now prefer to take my vehicles to a wheel alignment shop for $69.99. I know it's dead on.
Yea, this method is not good. He is not using any reference point. That reference point are the rear tires that most use to measure from.
I've diy a couple times with great results. Last month decided to spend and have it done..waited 3 weeks and spent$150 at best shop in town and the steering wheel is still a little pointed to left. So you know..DIY or DIE.
Not taking it back..drive there..wait.. maybe it's right but..
@@LJC5865 if i can do it myself and get it done right the 1st time, I DO IT.
The key to presenting a mesuring tape alignment is to simplfy the process. Your coments are too detailed and defy the action of self alignment.
They want $125 here now for just a toe . No caster or camber
Take it to a shop and more often than you will be hit up with you will need to replace this or that.....and that may be the case.....but then again it may just be this simple adjustment......thx for sharing bro, most of us are just struggling to get from dawn to dusk and this really helps :)
Hi mate I've been doing wheel alignments at home for years saves money using the same technique tape measure 👍
that what i doing now
This is exactly how I fixed the alignment on my 87 Chevette. My friends thought I got lucky, I just thought it made sense. Glad to see I’m not the only one. Lol.
My toe angle tools are as follows.
1 x wooden dowel (or old brush handle) about 1.2 to 1.3 metres long and 25 or 30mm dia, one end cut to a 10mm diameter tip, other end flat end but one side planed to provide a flat tapered surface.
1 x 300mm ruler.
The ruler is held on the flat tapered surface of the dowel with your thumb holding it so that you can slide it to change the combined length. Place the 100mm tip of the dowel on wheel rim as far back as you can reach and slide the ruler so that the end of it is placed on the rim of the opposite wheel. Note the reading on the ruler where it passes the end of the dowel. Do the same for the forward parts of the wheel rims and note the difference. Your should multiply by a suitable factor to get a toe-in reading for the full diameter of the wheel: perhap about 1.5 depending upon the distance between your measurement points.
You could improve accuracy of measurement more of you mark the two points with some paint, or tippex, and then push your car in forward or backward direction until those two marks appear at the rear, so you can now measure more accurate as this would take away any element of any wheel being slightly warped, or some other difference in tyre pattern . Overall its a good basic way to align. You also need around 1 degree toe in
Can you explain further? Not quite understanding what you mean
1 degree of toe in?!
@@danielplumley2649 Instead of comparing front tires to back tires, which can lead to some inaccurate measurements due to tire warping, and other things, you want to compare the front tires to the front tires. So in other words, when measuring between the points, mark where the tape measure starts and ends on the tires. Then put your car in drive or reverse (or neutral and push it) until those 2 points are facing the back of the car. So turn the tires until they have spun 180°. Then measure between the points again.
@@VibinCam thats Great idea brother.. i do tape alignments all the time and agree completely with that logic..makes sense
How do you know which side to make the adjustment though? Or do you do a little to each tire to make it even on both sides
I do this on my cars. It is very sensitive, as shown here where 1/2 turn each side changes toe-in by ~1/8". I doubt a laser alignment could beat that, plus some who worked alignment said techs often kick the mirrors to get an acceptable printout without even touching the car's adjusters. It changes over time after several years anyway as parts wear and ride height sags. Easiest if your front tires have straight channels. Hardest for me is recruiting a family member to hold the tape measure. I've tried taping it to the tire, but falls off or shifts (stickier tape!). Go up as high as you can on the aft side without hitting an obstruction, then the same height across the fwd track. If new, tight parts, I set 1/16" toe-in for RWD (or toe-out for FWD). As shown, you don't need to turn the adjusters much to get a big effect. Usually need to drive and repeat to get the steering wheel perfectly centered. A sanity check is to hold a straight-edge along the front and sight at the rears. Should hit ~1" inward on the rear tire if FWD (slight toe-out), if your front and rear tracks are the same width (most sedans). Repeat on other side. That method is also amazingly sensitive and might even replace the tape-measure method.
I check camber by holding a carpenter's level vertical against the tire. I set slight negative camber (tire leaning in at top). Caster can't be adjusted on many cars. On my 1960's Mopars, one sets the most caster you can, while still holding camber, even using offset upper control arm bushings. The factory design was for bias-ply tires which deflect aft more than radials. You want the projected line thru the ball joints to hit the asphalt in front of the tire contact patch while driving for a "shopping cart wheel" effect (so front wheels want to follow the body direction), but not too much or turning will be harder.
On older cars with turnbuckle adjusters, be sure to center the ball-joints on the inner and outer tie-rods so they can't bind in operation. No worries with newer cars with rack & pinion like shown in video since the inner ball-joint which screws into the rack (behind rubber boot) can spin 360 deg axially.
Maybe a bungee cord around the circumference of the tire would hold tape measure in place without falling off or shifting.
@@lawrencedavidson6195 I do the tape measure alignments All the time and its Easy to keep it in the groove..I use clear 2 or 3 inch wide packing tape...tear off a 10 inch strip, place the tape measure end in the center of that strip, get a shop cloth and 1st wipe the dirt off the area on the tire, put the measure clip in the groove and press the tape onto the tire.. hold fine while i go to the other side for measurements..I even reuse the same taPE on the back side measurements..
@@skip741x3 Great idea!
I've always enjoyed adjusting the suspension alignment on old Mopars. It's easy to adjust. It's also why they are good to take to the track cars and drive it back home. I would adjust the front alignment on my 71 Charger right at the drag strip. Then set it back to drive home. Heck, I would change the axle ratio as well. Pull the 3.28 ratio (8 3/4 axles are like Ford 9-inch axles. The gears come out in one unit) and change it to 4.10 gears. Then change it back to the 3.28's. Old Mopars were definitely built to race!
This is the very best diy alignment car video . I've ever seen. Congrats and thanks for share so many tricks to do . Greetings from Venezuela. 😉
cool video but did I miss something what if the driverside is out more than the passage side or vice versa. I saw you secured the steering wheel. but don't you need a center reference point to measure out from to see which is out or in more. either way, I will use this but I will find the center somehow thank you
Yes. It's good to measure to a center point.
Another trick is to count the number of available treads on each tie rod before you adjust anything. Ideally the number of threads should be almost the same either side
Went to the website listed on your alignment chart. They currently charge, $209.00 for a two panel alignment tool. Each alignment for my vehicles cost $121 to $151. That’s today. So two alignments at the lowest cost more than pays for it. That’s a no brainer. Great video, Thank you.
My alignment cost $350 from the backyard mechanic n $500 from Brakes plus
Great video! Very explanatory.
I still say take it to the shop but from my experience here is something you can do if it is way off and not able to drive if you have just changed the tie rod end... I found that counting the turns is a hit or miss because the new tie rod end part might be off by a few millimeter.
1. Jack up front of vehicle (safely).2. straighten steering wheel. 3.take off tires and release locking nut on tie rod end...4. remove tie rod end from steering knuckle (do not unscrew from inner tie rod. 5. go back in vehicle confirm steering is still straight adjust if necessary. 6. you have full control to straighten the steering wheel with your eyes by looking at it with the front of the vehicle, straighten them 7. Get under car and you will find that the tie rod end is not lined up with the hole in the steering knuckle make sure the tie rod end is at a perfect 90° angle. adjust to make it pop right in to the steering knuckle without moving that tire then tighten the locking nut , you will only be off by a small amount of degrees but able to drive to the shop without tires screeching or crab walking lol. do this to the to the other side.. from a point of view just looking at the car you should have a steering wheel that is straight with tires that are straight.
Excellent video. Additionally, when alignment is completed, slacken the steering boots clips and fix boots. Then retighten clips.
Yes the boots
@@JoseHernandez-qx5hy The boots!
Such quality. Looks like so much fun I'm gonna go do it to all my cars right now. Stay tuned for straight only driving
U up ijjjk
How did it gO?!! 📐📐
How did you make out on your bullshitting alignment
Measure the wheel not the tire. Simple differences in tire pressure will change measurments..
or the fact that his treads zig zaged an 1/8" lol
Actually, if neither of the tires have a different level of inflation, or even a different inflated radius, the measurement isn’t of the tire, or between the tires… What you are aligning is the difference between the front of the tire and the back of the tire when both tires have not moved.
You could have completely different size tires this would still work, measuring across, tire to tire, again, because what ultimately being measured is the difference between the front of the tires in the back of the tires.
Bro ,ive been doing tape measure alignments for ages..its so simple and Everyone has the means to do it...I always use a marker though to 1st mark the default original setting position on the tieros and the baljoint its threaded to to if u goof up, u can go back and try again.. it also gives u a reference for whether u have turned a quarter/half or full turn..
Where exactly are you marking the tires? Chalk or a sharpie?
Well, I noticed just looking at my car that I had an enormous amount of toe out, so set about fixing it using this method. I was confident that I had it right but on a long drive I felt it was pulling to the near side a bit too much. So I took it to a local garage for a test on their Hunter machine, telling them that I'd been having a go myself. They came back to me with a print out and said it was spot on and asked me how I'd done it.
So what was causing the vehicle to pull if the alignment was good?
@@Randyplaysguitars Nothing but my OCD. It's fine.
I was a Hunter rep before buying a shop with an A111 that I was very familliar with. Hunter makes the most accurate equipment. Today most of the time a car pulling one way or another is from tires, most of the time you swap the tires left to right, the pull will go away.
@@ronvaliquette8798Or a caliper dragging. I have had that happen a few times.
@@Randyplaysguitars Road crown
Amazing! Great work!
I'll be using this method from now on!
A neighbour used to do his own wheel alignments on his drive at home ..Get a good wrench to move the bolts on the arms I've encountered a few seized ones might need a blow lamp..I've changed a few tie rod ends but never really done the separate job of alignment
If you replace parts at home this is a good thing to do before you get a real alignment
Great
Yeah your right . That will get you pretty close . So you can get to the shop without tearing your tires up. Gotta do that on my C10 . Replaced everything on my front end and it way off now.
Hahaha I took my shitbox for a drive after putting on new parts and not having old measurements due to having to cut parts etc and the thing pretty much crab walked lmao
Just got to be able to get there
I'm going to do this tomorrow. This is really good info. Recently I changed steering knuckles and other suspensions parts which required removing the tie rod from the knuckle... Now my wheel is off center. Hopefully this helps
Perhaps measure against a centre point in case one wheel is more off than the other?
If you're not sure that both wheels aren't with the same orientation, unbolt tie rod end completely and then screw in with same number of turns on both sides - and viola, you have a base line :-)
@René Vondrášek
Chcelo by sa Ti mi poradiť v tomto prosím Ťa?
Moc by si mi pomohol.
Thank you, I put a new steering rack and pinion on. I was going to take it in for a $100 alignment. I did it myself in under an hour. Hope it works???
I was off by 3/4" from the front of the tire to the back of the tire when I started...... Now my front and back measurements are on the money!!!!!
I think when you tightened it back up, you changed the adjustment by turning the adjustment bar in a little bit, which would Toe the wheel in more. I think you need to hold the Adjusting bar with pliers on those lines and then tighten the nut. The tie rod end will only turn so far and it will stop. Not sure if it turned enough to matter though.
Curious if your wheel is straight while driving. I think you would have to keep adjusting them on both sides to the left or right until you got the wheel straight while driving because I don't think their is anyway to set the wheel straight with this method. You could have the steering wheel Locked down when you do this but, the correct percentage between the front and back of the wheels could be set correctly, but in multiple different directions I think which would change the setting on your steering wheel.
You are absolutely correct. You will need to make several adjustments and that is why you must take the weight off the tires or you will surely strip the threads. The basic idea is right though conventional steering is much easier than rack and pinion steering.
I've used that method and one that requires two jack stands and fishing line... Both are easy, work great.
I noticed at 10:04 when you were tightening the locking nut you actually turned the drive to a shorter position, making the alignment off.
Probably actually put it in spec, @ 8:43 he calls 3/32 3/16. so it likely took that 1/32 toe in to 1/16 or better
I use a telescopic paint roller handle on the insides of the front of the lip of wheels and then bring it around to the rear of the wheel and make sure there is 1/8 inch gap. You won't have variation from tire tread or rubber moving. Just brought one to get new tires installed they checked the alignment and refused to even adjust it because it wouldn't get any closer than I got it with a paint roller handle. Basically same concept just a little more precise
This works great just did it on my Lincoln town car drives perfect and straight steering wheel I just did the exact same measurements in front and back and seemed to work just fine
Проверенный метод, Я точно также два года назад себе делал, и очень удивился, что кто-то до этого тоже до думался, результат отличный, до регулировки, таким методом, резину сжирало за 15-20 тысяч километров
si es cierto lo que dices. tienes toda la razon.
After you set the Towing correctly with a tape measure you then I have to fine-tune the steering wheel because it is hardly ever straight it may be slightly off you drive it and determine which way to turn the tire rods on each side . If your steering wheel is at 1 o’clock after the Towing is set correctly you then will have to adjust the right tire rod in a quarter of a turn and the left one out a quarter of a turn and then recheck the steering wheel and repeat this procedure until it’s straight
I just did this based on this video for the first time ever. It didn't work without assistance, as there it too much slop in my steering (1992 Montero/Pajero) and when adjusting the toe, it just moved the slop point whilst the steering wheel didn't move. The solution in my case was to get my wife to take up the slop in the steering wheel and then resist the movement as I adjusted the toe.
I also ran a string line from the rear tyre to the front so I could see the difference between the front tyre and the string as I adjusted it. Saved some measurement time as it's tricky to get a tape measure between the wheels on this car.
I bungee a plastic 4' level on each wheel as high as I can to allow a tape to stretch across, makes holding the end on much easier and gives a more accurate measurement.
@Hank Bridges The 2 measurements are the reference. When both front of tire and rear of tire measurements are the same the tires are parallel to each other and if your frame isn't bent or your rear axle isn't skewed it also puts them parallel with the rear tires. Works perfect and I don't have to buy anything from EBAY. You can also check with an 8' fluorescent bulb if the rear axle is in line with the front by touching off the 2 sidewalls of the rear tire and extending the bulb to the front tire. When the bulb is touching both tires on both sidewalls you know the front and rear tire are parallel, this method also works perfect on motorcycles. It's all about geometry.
Using millimeter is an accurate one
You should measure off the wheels instead of the tires.
@@charliedee9276 bh
I use a straight edge and a laser level. Then I drive the car close to a wall. I set up my level and laser pointer and mark the spot. Then I back up the car about 10 feet and set up the pointer again and mark the laser spot. I then turn the adjustments on the car so the spots line up. Of course I do the same procedure on both sides. I repeat the entire procedure two or three times until the dots line up perfectly. a little bit time consuming but is very accurate, I took the car to an alignment shop and the readings came out very close to what the spec are. Make sure you calibrate your laser pointer first by rotating it and making the necessary adjustments on the pointer.
Of course this method only works as long as you can see the spots like when its a little bit dark
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- **Level**: Imagine a flat surface, like a table or a floor, where you would typically place objects.
- **Laser Pointer**: Visualize a small device that emits a thin beam of light, used for pointing out objects or aligning things accurately.
To create this mental image:
1. Picture a flat surface, like a straight edge that you put on the wheel, in our case the wheel that you want to align
2. On top of this surface, place a small, handheld laser pointer.
3. Envision the laser pointer emitting a bright, focused beam of light that extends straight out from the device, creating a visible line or dot on the surface.
This visualization can help you imagine a level with a laser pointer on top of it for tasks like aligning objects, checking for levelness, or highlighting specific points.
Good idea but how do u know which wheel needs the adjustment your assuming both wheels are equally out to begin with ??? Or am i missing something?
I was thinking the same thing
That's what I caught, they could be both left or right... Should of squared off the rear tires...
yep spot on, car was pulling left wear on inside right tyre, checked using your method 3/8" TOE OUT RESET 1/16" TOE IN car drives as straight as an arrow total time 20 minutes cost nothing! many thanks
Glad that it fixed your problem!
@@daringmotors believe it not this is AFTER I had it checked TWICE with a garage so they are history!! top man! once again many thanks!
A front wheel drive vehicle will need a very slight amount of outward tow to compensate for the pulling forces, this is opposite of rear wheel drive..
How much outward toe should it have?
@@s0lbabyy.a Very close to zero, maybe 1/16 inch towed out but certainly not towed in.
Most tire shops don't know what they're doing as it is ,, , and when I get one wheel counter balanced,,,,, that tells me ,,,, they don't know what they're doing ,,,,, so this is a good start to help the alignment guys out ,,,,, AS I WATCH ,,,,, Les Schwab
Good Info, Thanks. Even though the audio was really low, after I plugged in and turned on my amplifier, I could then hear what was being said.
Deaf??
This made a huge difference. I just changed both tie rods and of course alignment was off. Did this and car running straight with no hands on wheel. My only thing is, my steering wheel is still off center even though i did strap it down with seatbelt.
Great video of a skill that's all but forgotten by today's society
Tape measure? Wait what? Lol
You can just use a cord too easy
Uh, no. Not at all.
Worked for me. No more wear and tear. Tires ain't cheap when their 20s
I use to do that until I discovered a string alignment. I'm sure there are videos on it. A string goes the whole way around the car across the middle of the tire. It's easier to visualize and also get your steering wheel straight. No need holding a tape. With all front end work I do a string alignment then send them off to get it done with a machine. Any control arm work the castor and camber needs adjusted. With just tierods and/or pitman arm you can get away with just toe-in. Another thing is you need good tires. If you have poor tires you will get poor results. Do your work, put good tires on, adjust it close enough then go get a professional alignment. It's worth the $75.
@Anthony M I'm guessing it's a temporary remedy after fixing the car. Really bad alignment can make the vehicle harder to control and unsafe.
I've used both the tape measure and the string ( fishing line with two jack stands) the string method is my go to.
@@waynesmith1704but wouldn’t you need the same tire width on the front and back for the string method to work? If you have 255 tires on the front and 275 tires on the rear wouldn’t that throw the string method off?
Outstanding! Private! No lollygagin or jerkin around. Carry on!
Front wheels, should not be parallel in all cars, you should refers to car's spec. by the way, generally in front wheel cars, due to pulling force of front wheels, front tires tends to becomes toe in. so to compensate this phenomenon, they must have a little toe out angle in not driving condition.
My pops was born in 1926 he did his own alinements in the driveway with a ruler. I think he used a level and a string. Maybe I don't remember that day that well. But I did work on cars and trucks with him.
Very soft spoken, This is gonna teach my crew lots! Thank you sir! Also feedback, Id invest in a mic that attaches to your shirt, its kinda of hard to hear you. Other than that great video!
That is great, easy to do. But what if the tread on the tires are not perfectly straight. Would give a false reading. On some cheap tires if you spin the tire you can see it is not equal. How about measuring from the wheel on front and on back. Thanks for sharing.
I have been doing it this way for years. Great video.
Thanks that was helpful for the toe in/out. So how do you align the camber?
run a string line all the way around the center of tires you can easily see which wheel is out start with drivers side then passenger to adjust
What?
Used this method, drove car, then did a second time on one wheel only and now perfect. thank you much
There is a better way to get an accurate and accurate alignment of the tires of the car, which is to use a string and connect it from the rear tire to the front tire, so that it touches the outer edge of each tire, and then decide if you need to move the tire inward or outward
This can fuck you up if you have a vehicle that has tie rods on all 4. Because if you're off in the rear too, it will throw off the front. Also, if your wheelbase is not the same in the front/rear that will also not work because it will not be square.
Nope nope nope! Back when I'd do my own front end alignment on my old Corsica, I found the front tires were over an inch further apart than the rear tires.
NEVER assume your vehicle's geometry is symmetrical from the front to the back.
You should know that if the four points of the front and rear tires do not touch the taut thread, then there will be no exact alignment of the wheels. If the direction of the rear tires is different from the front, no matter how hard you try, there will be no exact alignment, so this process is the best, through which you can direct even the tire back through
What if the vehicle is dog tracking
@@lynskeyti9940 Then you give it a treat and tell it to go lay down.
lolol.... It means your rear toe either has a positive or negative thrust angle. Meaning you need to have the toe aligned.
I aligned a 1967 VW bug with broomsticks once then took it to a dealer and they said it was correctly aligned. This is back in the 1970's when I was a mechanic in Germany and Texas. Once asked to go work at VW when I lived in Texas. 1980's.
Thanks for teaching us this practical wheel alignment. Two thumbs up...
Wow I was going to pay someone $80 to do this for my front tires now I'm going to do it myself thank you
Using this method- If 1 wheel is strait and ok and 1 is out of alignment, you won't know which is which because you have no reference to a fixed or parallel structure. The string method is more accurate.
Faster also
ok 8iv0p
It is x5ypd,
If you changed the TRE on one side, you know which side is out of alignment.
What's the string method
@@davidgallaher6298 ua-cam.com/video/P6EllJTMrZs/v-deo.html
I really enjoyed work. You made it look easy. I wonder why they charge high on alignment.
I appreciate you thanks ❤
You'd have more precise measurements by measuring off the rotors with the wheels off and off the ground. I've done this method, but off the rotors with the wheels off and jacked up. What I did was take the wheels off, took two carpenter squares held on against the rotors by two lugs flat position parallel to the ground. This left the squares sticking out from front to back to measure off of. Being off the ground won't effect toe, makes it real easy to adjust the tie rods, quicker to measure and more precise. Most carpenter squares are plenty flat enough to use, they generally have close enough tolerances within a couple 1000's of an inch in most cases... they're good enough for toe anyways.
Two carpenter squares are pipe fitters best friend.
Couldn't agree more. The worst rotor is probably more precise than the best tire. I use a set of tools that fit just about any bolt patttern and bolt right onto each rotor. Got them from a company called TMR Customs.
Thanks for this video is very helpful, which measurements is my reference the front or back measurement? TIA
Your delivery is perfect 👌.
I found your video very helpful, thanks for sharing this with us all. With much love and respect from the UK
For a more accurate measurment, jack up one wheel and have someone spin it while you scribe a line with a pocket knife or nail around the tire, use a brick or something to steady your scribe. let the car down and do it on the other side. Another check is with the car on the ground sight the side walls of the front tire to the back tire on both sides, line your eye up with the front tire like a rifle sight and see what you see. both sides should be the same.
I saw a farmer holding straight planks hard up onto the tyre walls and marking the point in front of car on the ground where the say 6 foot of plank rested. I imagine it needed to be a symmetrical match up for the other tyre . Long time ago . Hard to precisely and understandably word this stuff huh .
@@michaelcorbidge7914 Easier than the string method I would think.
problem is once you jack it up and lower it again, u cant just go by those measurements becuz the vehicle Needs to settle and Roll at least 10 feet ,Then check the measurements..just jacking it up, rotating and lowering to check will give false readings becuz camber will be off a bit which affects toe, untill it rolls a bit and settles./
Wowsers now I know how much work", goes through the rebuilt process. Tremendous job".
Thank you for this information. I will try this on my 2004 Honda Civic. Where did you get the specs for the toe-in number please?
If you search on google with your cars information you will be able to find it that is how I find mine
Good info & explain perfectly. Question ; i sale flooring so gave up the tape measure & use a lazier now. Can I do what you did by just going inside driver front tire to inside passenger & so forth to back side? Or is measuring from actual roughly middle tread as you did an important part? or just a way to hold end of tape measure.
Excellent explained 👍
Great video, i recently picked up a laser tape from Bosch that makes this type of alignment super easy.
This is great, it's not the money so much as the waiting time. Here's a thought, if it is 63 1/4" (maybe that was an 63 1/8", but dose not change the thought) on the front, and 62 3/4" on the rear, why not adjust each tire half the difference, so as to avoid the back and forth. So in the case of 63 1/4" take away 62 3/4" diff 1/2", adjust each tire 1/4". In case 2 where it is 63 1/8" front and 62 3/4" in rear diff 3/8" or 6/16", adjust each tire 3/16". Does that make sense?
Good thinking if you're a math teacher?
A beautiful DIY on tire alignment fixing. That was good.
This is the video I was looking for 👍🏽
3:33 great camera 📸 work while holding the tape measure! 📐
Excellent your job, I find Zain was with you the mechanic Hussein from Bahrain is a fan of the dog
Idk how I ended up on this video but I liked it 👍🏽
Bhahahahha same here bro lol
Excellent., Ready for the next video
Thank you for the great Video am getting ready to save $90 on front alignment.
You may save $90 now but it will cost you hundreds later when your tires wear out prematurely. You can’t get the precision you need with a tape measure. If you have lane departure or electric power steering you will also need to reset the steering angle sensor or you’ll cause problems that will cost you hundreds more on top of the premature tire wear. Somethings are best left to the professionals with proper equipment. If a tape measure did the job why are shops spending $60,000 to $70,000 on alignment equipment.
@@scotts1862 pop ouy66
@@scotts1862 for the write off of course 🤪
@Jimmy Dee lol…stop being a cheapass
@@justiceforall8982 yeah no I do everything on my vehicles except alignments, transmission rebuilds, full motor rebuilds.
Why? Because higher quality measurement tools improve your accuracy.
This is why machinists with tighter tolerances get paid more.
Yo!! Amateur wrencher here mostly just matinence and few other things here and there but this is the first time ever seeing a fookin visegrip cresent wrench!!! Feel like I've wasted so much time trying too keep them on bolts or nuts 😂
Oh dear oh dear and all you tubers are falling for this, so tell me how do you know what the thrust angle is, wait you don’t , now if your car is driving to the left or right it is your thrust angle that causes this and not your front toe, thrust angle is set from the rear and must be set first before you set the front toe so good luck you tubers ,
My 98 and 99 crv’s have set camber. The hardest thing is to get the steering wheel centered. Other than that, my cars track better than any other car I’ve had with no unusual wear.
Ok Karen
I was a Hunter rep, I ran the alignment shop at a 7 franchise dealer and later owned my own shop with an A-111 Hunter 4-wheel machine for many years. You assumed that the tires/rims are perfectly round with zero run out, very bad idea. 2nd, when making adjustments on these tie rods, you never loosened the tie rod boots and left them twisted. You should have sprayed penetrating oil on the tie rod nuts and the boot clamps and reset the boots/untwist after you were done. I'm sure you can figure out how to check to see if there is ANY runout in the tire/rim and illustrate that 1st in your next video. You also did this on a solid surface. When making any adjustment, you have asumed there are no loose components in the tie rod/rack assy. You should have checked and confirmed that 1st. Assuming your truck had a perfect front end, you should have driven your truck forward or back to recheck your numbers or put one of your tires over two slippery surfaces, like two kitchen cutting sheets with olive oil between them. Three of the frachises at the dealer were Porsche, Mercedes and Audi, I worked closely with their reps to solve many problems of customer issues over the years.
I've always had good luck setting the tow 1/8 of an inch narrower on the front measurement compared to the back measurement. How much do you put in it also depends on how worn out your front end components are.
1/8" drags the tire 40-50 ft per mile...
True. My 1985 M-B shop manual is a bit fussy. They show a shop tool, rod which pushes the fwd side of the front tires apart to take up play before adjusting toe-in. I recall then you set 1/16" toe-in, like for a car with all new suspension parts. If worn tie-rod ends and ball-joints, better to set 1/8" toe-in if no such loading rod. That is for RWD cars. If FWD, you set slight toe-out since the front tires pull and thus rotate towards toe-in while driving. Ideally, the fronts will be exactly parallel when driving.
@William Grissom and what about 4WD drive Or AWD
@@fvgc454ss only done for front, the rear you keep parallel. 4x4 or AWD take into consideration if full time or part time. Full time, set up as FWD vehicle with toe out. Part time set up as RWD, with toe in.
I am retired now, and have done this type of job many times. my method is to lock the steering wheel with a piece of 2"x 2", long enough to wedge it between the steering wheel and the floor. Then i start the job by loosening the two lock nuts. Next i cut another 2 bits of 2" x 2", and the length is 1" longer than the front wheel front to rear. I fix a piece horizontal to the outside of the wheel,and tie it to the wheel using bungie cord. I use my measuring tape, take a reading from the front then a reading at the rear, then proceed wit the steering adjustments, easy as pie.
P.S. don`t forget to loosen the rubber boot on the track rod.
Now the shop’s going loosing all clients n we r going to save a bunch of feria this job is exspensive n grasias mil por su compartir esto está perron
Wow thank you for sharing how to do a wheel alignment. One day I will have a personal garage and work on my cars my self; why pay someone when you can do it yourself.
Thank you for taking the time from making this video. Brain food, courtesy of you. 👍 Subscribed!
wow good idea friend thanks for sharing