Such a great video! UA-cam is probably the greatest resource on the internet for spreading information to empower people to DIY.....but UA-cam is nothing without talented people like you creating and uploading marvelous content.
Thank you so much for your kindness, and I’m so glad this video was what you were looking for! Appreciate you watching, and I hope you have a wonderful evening!!!
Just watched this video and thank you,I did just order the Detroit axle kit bit with the cv axels off of Amazon it was about 500 bucks.i should have it October 6th 2023 so next weekend.
Great video thank you, I'm about to do the same front end rebuild on my 03 1500hd. Better then giving the dealership I'm guessing about 5k for parts and labor . I appreciate all the insights!
Best tutorial I’ve seen on UA-cam sir kudos to you! Gotta ask why you didn’t knock off the rust and paint those parts my my ocd was driven crazy seeing that new shiny stuff beside that cancer lol.
Thanks for the view and the feedback! In retrospect, I should have cleaned and painted those parts…lesson learned (several folks have pointed that out). Appreciate the candid feedback:)
Very important I think you should touch on sir. Especially 99 up gm trucks, any time a electrical plug is unplugged or plugged in(abs) sensors, it's a good practice to unhook the battery, I realize there is probably not going to be a problem with this but man it's not worth a maybe, these are a totally different beast than we as diy guys are used to. And don't forget there is a small relearn for the ecm every time the battery is unhooked, I found it in a Haynes manual. It definitely makes a difference. Hope this helps😊
Thinking about doing this for my truck and was hesitant, watching you go through it has given me so much confidence and your energy is encouraging. Thank you for this video 👍
@@theelijahsanchez they were all pretty good. The upper control arms started to squeak, and with no zerk fitting I couldn’t grease them and had to replace one. Other than that, all good!
You did amazing with this video. I have a 2007 LBZ with 154,000 miles. I’m traveling in retirement and I’m going to do this front end job next year. I’ll save this video. Thx again
Awesome job, I've done plenty of these and you my friend did it to perfection with great narrative skills. Regarding upper control arms, a quick tip is to spray paint the cams prior to removal, then on reinstall you just line up the cams where the paint marks are, that gets you close. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thank you so much for the tip and feedback, friend!!! I really appreciate it because this old truck gets used A LOT so future repairs are an almost certainty:) Have a wonderful day!
Yours is the best video I've seen, thank you! The only thing I'm doing different/ in addition, is replacing the lower arms as well. Other video's regarding that, is the torsion bars can be a bugger to remove! One thing I love about Chevy, is the design and parts stay rather consistent for many years! Mine is a 2008 6.0L 3500HD 4x4 DRW crew cab with a dump bed. Thanks again!
@@GrubNGas I have a side business doing firewood here in south central Colorado. I can haul some two cords in the truck, or two in the dump trailer and one in the truck. The truck gets a lot of 4x4 action and a lot of off road action as well, in some extreme weather conditions. Otherwise the dually gets used for the farm. It hit 200k miles, and it was letting me know, "Hey! I need some extra TLC!" lol FYI, Kanati Trail Hog tires rock for the winter. I haven't had to chain up in some 3 years! That I found astonishing, as Dually's generally suck in the snow!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have to say that your explanations, editing, and speed video parts were great for getting to the point and showing key elements without a bunch of wasted BS video time! I am just getting ready to order a front-end rebuild kit from Detroit Axle, so this was perfect! Hubs were already recently replaced with Napa severe duty, so they're good. My 07 Duramax only has 120,000 on it, but my pitman and idler arms are toast, and the boots on the upper and lower ball joints are deteriorated... so I was gonna go ahead and get the kit with pitman, 2 piece idler, inner/outer tie rods, loaded upper arms, and lower ball joints. Also doing Bilstein shocks, and new drilled/slotted rotors and carbon pads at the same time. My truck sees as many miles towing a 17,000lb 5th wheel as it does empty! I have just a couple questions/ comments... I was originally thinking I'd completely disassemble and rebuild one side and then the other, vs. removing the whole drag link as an assembly and rebuilding it loose on the bench. Is it too hard to get the inner toe rods apart from the center link if it's still in the truck? I was wondering if that's why you removed it all together? Also, wouldn't it be easier to just put a floor jack under the end of the lower control arm and lift "slightly" to remove the shocks, vs. turning the torsion keys loose and having to try to "reset" the ride height of the truck? Just wondering if I was missing something! Oh yeah, I almost forgot to ask.... do you know if there's any way to determine if the truck has a 3 groove vs. a 4 groove pitman arm, without disassembling it first just to verify? Great video, and I'll be saving this to refer back to once I have all my parts! 👍
Thank you so much for your feedback, and taking the time to post such a well articulated comment. This one wins comment of all time! In retrospect, I would’ve removed the tie rods with the center link still in the truck. It was a PAIN to do it out of the truck. Also, yes, the floor jack lifting the lower control arm would’ve been easier. Sometimes my efficiency is not the best, lol! As for the pitman arm, I took a chance that the kit online would have the right one for the application. Probably not the best move, but they got it right. I genuinely appreciate your comment and insight. I wish you the best on repairing your 2007. These trucks are totally worth the maintenance!
@Grub 'N Gas Right on! Thanks for the reply and the compliments! I respected your ability to clearly explain what needed to be done, and felt a concise reply with a couple legitimate questions would be worth the time.... and I was right! You da' man! 👍
@@wingnut6867 Hello Sir... Jusf was reading your comments and replies here and I admit my mouth watered a little bit when I read the upgrades you had planned or already completed on your 3500HD. I've got an '09 that is going to need all of that itself but I'm afraid I won't be able to afford it all in one bunde. Wondering if you finusged up, and if you would mind sharing approximately what you ended up paying in totsl for the stuff you talked about in this thread. Ty both for fun reading as well. Im always a fan of wit over sarcasm anyday.
10:25 I have a 97 k2500 suburban and the ball joint directions said to point the fitting towards the inside of the vehicle. Well, you can see the relief in the control arm where you installed it correctly. Impossible to grease the fitting as per my directions. Such a little thing caused a big PITA. Wish mine come apart like yours did!!
That sounds like a ROYAL pain! Sorry to hear this is such a headache. Maybe one day I’ll get a chance to work on a 90’s and catch it on film. I wish you all the best, and thanks for reaching out!
Excellent video brother--nice work keeping the FastForward a good amount of time while slowing it down when further info is needed. I'm.doing nearly this exact same job on an '09 Silverado 3500HD this coming weekend and I'll have you right there with me. Thanks very much.
I'm about to do this on my 06 2500 as well. This video helped me realize the headache I'm in for since I'm also doing the control arm bushings. Great video and thank you.
You’re most welcome, and yes, it’s a chore. You got this, though! Just be sure to keep those jack stands and extra safety precautions in place to keep you safe, friend:)
Start spraying your torsion bars where they connect to lower control arms and keys with penetrating oil for a week or so before you start your job. That is going to be your biggest problem on disassembly, trust me.
On my 1998 silverado I replaced both hub bearings, the rotor and hub bearings are held together with the 8 wheel studs on each side. Other than that this video was very informative thank you!!
Great video I just subscribed to your channel, thanks for taking the time to make this video, I have a 2001 Chevy 2500 4x4 and I’m trying to get as much information as possible before I attempt to rebuild the front end.. Thanks
Good vid ! I just did my suburban and it was a long job. Never understood the plastic insert with the single hole on the camber guide cams. That fixes the camber and eliminates the capability of adjusting the camber. Mine on had 2 plastic guides on drivers side only. Not sure why
Thanks, friend! So far I’ve only had to replace one upper control arm because one started squeaking. If I had it to do all over again, I’d get the kit that has greasable zerk fittings on the ball joints. Other than that, phenomenal kit!
"My Lovely Bride" I refer to my wife as the MLB commissioner. I tell people, too many side projects and I get fined for out of contract play bt the MLB. Good stuff mate👍
So far so good. I had one upper control arm develop a squeak within 6 months, so I replaced it with a greasable upper ball joint. That’s the only thing I’d change is to put in serviceable ball joints in the upper position.
Awesome video! Still kinda scared to try to tackle this by myself. But curious. How did the Detroit Axle parts hold up? Since this video was uploaded a year ago. Any update??
So what is the good, bad, and ugly on the Detroit Axle parts after 1 year of service. I am about to do the same job on my 2002 2500 and I am currently contemplating Detroit or Moog....
Well, the good is, all my parts have held up great…the one outlier is that the non-greasable upper control arms start to squeak about 6 months in. My advice is to definitely get uppers that have zerk fittings. Other than that, it’s been a great kit. The Moog is better quality, but the Detroit has held up nicely for me…minus the squeaks.
Hey brother, great tutorial! To the point step-by-step, clear camera angles and i feel the 90% "how-to-do" commentary and 10% banter/chemistry with wifey struck a good balance. Quick question. 01 Silverado 2500hd 4x4 and just recieved that same detroit axle kit and one thing that drew my attention was how not so heavy duty the upper control arms at least appear to me by comparison to whats on the truck just like the one you replaced in the video. So i was curious if its just a looks can be decieving thing or if it is just a lighter duty swap?
Thanks so much for the feedback on the video! It was a lot of sweat making it, but worth it:) I too noticed the lighter upper control arms. I haven’t had any issues with them so far, but I did notice the non-greasable ball joints squeak on one side within a couple of months. If I had it to do all over again, I would have looked for uppers that have the zerk fittings. That’s my thoughts so far, hope that helps!
anyone know the torque spec for those wheel bearings? i cant find it in the manual, and google is giving me a bunch of different specs. literally doing this same rebuild
Ok man how well did this kit end up ?? I see reviews saying parts last two weeks to one year then some great price and worked well ?? I’ve used tie rods that’s it before but nothing else so I’m worried about quality but don’t wanna spend tons of money on other parts
It’s a mixed basket. I had to replace an upper control arm within a year. Definitely spend the money for the greasable ball joints (upper). Other than that, it’s a mostly good kit!
So far, so good! One of the control arms developed a squeak, so I had to replace it with a greasable one. That’s the one thing I would change: I’d get two greasable upper control arms.
Thank you for taking the time to share this. I'm looking to do the same to my 2004 2500. How are things holding up for you? Any issues with these parts?
You’re most welcome, and thank you for commenting! So far, I’ve had really good service. One item in the list to get elsewhere is the upper control arms, as these are not greasable. Definitely get some that are greasable as one of mine started squeaking and I replaced it again.
Here’s a link: Detroit Axle - 8 Lugs Front Wheel Hub Bearing + Upper Control Arm w/Ball Joint Suspension Kit Replacement for Silverado Sierra 2500 3500 www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWQMQR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JS69kpaNdgIxa
Well done video, but watching you put dirty parts back made me cringe!!! A little Dawn dishwashing soap, and a powerwasher go a long way, but I'm a clean freak.
The love that radiates towards your wife makes this video. Thank you❤
Thank you so much…she’s a blessing, and I’m eternally grateful for her! Hope you have a blessed day, friend!
Such a great video! UA-cam is probably the greatest resource on the internet for spreading information to empower people to DIY.....but UA-cam is nothing without talented people like you creating and uploading marvelous content.
Thank you so much for your kindness, and I’m so glad this video was what you were looking for! Appreciate you watching, and I hope you have a wonderful evening!!!
Just watched this video and thank you,I did just order the Detroit axle kit bit with the cv axels off of Amazon it was about 500 bucks.i should have it October 6th 2023 so next weekend.
You’re most welcome, and I’m glad this video helped! Let me know how the job turns out:)
I feel better about doing the job now. Big thanks and I feel better about my left front tire.....it looks just like yours.
You’re most welcome, friend! You got this! Cool tire:)
Great video. I dig how you mentioned the size of the wrench/socket for each component.
Thanks so much! Yeah, I thought it might help with tool inventory if a person was planning in advance.
Great video thank you, I'm about to do the same front end rebuild on my 03 1500hd. Better then giving the dealership I'm guessing about 5k for parts and labor . I appreciate all the insights!
You’re most welcome, and glad this helped! Yes, it would be quite expensive to have a dealership do it.
Best tutorial I’ve seen on UA-cam sir kudos to you! Gotta ask why you didn’t knock off the rust and paint those parts my my ocd was driven crazy seeing that new shiny stuff beside that cancer lol.
Thanks for the view and the feedback! In retrospect, I should have cleaned and painted those parts…lesson learned (several folks have pointed that out). Appreciate the candid feedback:)
Very important I think you should touch on sir. Especially 99 up gm trucks, any time a electrical plug is unplugged or plugged in(abs) sensors, it's a good practice to unhook the battery, I realize there is probably not going to be a problem with this but man it's not worth a maybe, these are a totally different beast than we as diy guys are used to. And don't forget there is a small relearn for the ecm every time the battery is unhooked, I found it in a Haynes manual. It definitely makes a difference. Hope this helps😊
Thanks so much for the tip, and I agree…would be good to point that out! Appreciate your viewpoint and comment! Have a wonderful evening:)
Great video - thanks for all the explanations! Shout out to all the wives that help out!!
Thanks, friend! And yes, they are definitely a lifesaver!
I have watched through out the process of my own truck’s suspension renewal many times.
Thank you 😅
Continue!!!
I’m so glad this helped, and thank you for the feedback! Have a blessed one, friend!
Thinking about doing this for my truck and was hesitant, watching you go through it has given me so much confidence and your energy is encouraging. Thank you for this video 👍
You can do it, friend! Glad this video helped, and appreciate the feedback 👍💯
@@GrubNGas I did forget to ask, how was the quality of the Detroit axle parts
@@theelijahsanchez they were all pretty good. The upper control arms started to squeak, and with no zerk fitting I couldn’t grease them and had to replace one. Other than that, all good!
@@GrubNGas okay okay awesome! Thanks again for a great video
@@theelijahsanchez you’re most welcome! Thank you for the comments and feedback!
This one of the best repair videos I have seen. Great job!
Thank you so much, friend! I really appreciate the feedback, and if you see anything that needs improvement, please don’t hesitate to let me know!
You did amazing with this video. I have a 2007 LBZ with 154,000 miles. I’m traveling in retirement and I’m going to do this front end job next year. I’ll save this video. Thx again
Thank you so much, friend! It means a lot that folks get value out of these videos. Stoked it was worth your time. Safe travels and God bless!!!
Best video I've seen showing the work that needs done to put this kit in. I did some steps differently but the end outcome is the same. Great video!!
Thank you, friend!!! Appreciate your feedback!!!
Thanks for making the video! Just ordered my kit, which saved me a few $$ from buying something off rock auto.
You’re most welcome, and glad this helped! Have a great one!
How is ur kit doing now
Awesome job, I've done plenty of these and you my friend did it to perfection with great narrative skills. Regarding upper control arms, a quick tip is to spray paint the cams prior to removal, then on reinstall you just line up the cams where the paint marks are, that gets you close. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thank you so much for the tip and feedback, friend!!! I really appreciate it because this old truck gets used A LOT so future repairs are an almost certainty:) Have a wonderful day!
Yours is the best video I've seen, thank you!
The only thing I'm doing different/ in addition, is replacing the lower arms as well. Other video's regarding that, is the torsion bars can be a bugger to remove!
One thing I love about Chevy, is the design and parts stay rather consistent for many years!
Mine is a 2008 6.0L 3500HD 4x4 DRW crew cab with a dump bed.
Thanks again!
Thank you so much for the feedback, and I’m stoked this video helped! I’d love to have a dump bed one day, I’ll bet that comes in handy!
And yes, love the consistency of Chevrolet’s design!
@@GrubNGas I have a side business doing firewood here in south central Colorado. I can haul some two cords in the truck, or two in the dump trailer and one in the truck.
The truck gets a lot of 4x4 action and a lot of off road action as well, in some extreme weather conditions.
Otherwise the dually gets used for the farm.
It hit 200k miles, and it was letting me know, "Hey! I need some extra TLC!" lol
FYI, Kanati Trail Hog tires rock for the winter. I haven't had to chain up in some 3 years! That I found astonishing, as Dually's generally suck in the snow!
@@FarmerRiddick heck yeah, that’s good info to know! I’ll look those tires up when mine are worn out👍
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have to say that your explanations, editing, and speed video parts were great for getting to the point and showing key elements without a bunch of wasted BS video time! I am just getting ready to order a front-end rebuild kit from Detroit Axle, so this was perfect! Hubs were already recently replaced with Napa severe duty, so they're good. My 07 Duramax only has 120,000 on it, but my pitman and idler arms are toast, and the boots on the upper and lower ball joints are deteriorated... so I was gonna go ahead and get the kit with pitman, 2 piece idler, inner/outer tie rods, loaded upper arms, and lower ball joints.
Also doing Bilstein shocks, and new drilled/slotted rotors and carbon pads at the same time.
My truck sees as many miles towing a 17,000lb 5th wheel as it does empty!
I have just a couple questions/ comments... I was originally thinking I'd completely disassemble and rebuild one side and then the other, vs. removing the whole drag link as an assembly and rebuilding it loose on the bench. Is it too hard to get the inner toe rods apart from the center link if it's still in the truck? I was wondering if that's why you removed it all together?
Also, wouldn't it be easier to just put a floor jack under the end of the lower control arm and lift "slightly" to remove the shocks, vs. turning the torsion keys loose and having to try to "reset" the ride height of the truck? Just wondering if I was missing something! Oh yeah, I almost forgot to ask.... do you know if there's any way to determine if the truck has a 3 groove vs. a 4 groove pitman arm, without disassembling it first just to verify?
Great video, and I'll be saving this to refer back to once I have all my parts! 👍
Thank you so much for your feedback, and taking the time to post such a well articulated comment. This one wins comment of all time!
In retrospect, I would’ve removed the tie rods with the center link still in the truck. It was a PAIN to do it out of the truck.
Also, yes, the floor jack lifting the lower control arm would’ve been easier. Sometimes my efficiency is not the best, lol!
As for the pitman arm, I took a chance that the kit online would have the right one for the application. Probably not the best move, but they got it right.
I genuinely appreciate your comment and insight. I wish you the best on repairing your 2007. These trucks are totally worth the maintenance!
@Grub 'N Gas Right on! Thanks for the reply and the compliments!
I respected your ability to clearly explain what needed to be done, and felt a concise reply with a couple legitimate questions would be worth the time....
and I was right!
You da' man! 👍
@@wingnut6867 the feeling is mutual! Thank you for the comments and challenges to do it better:) Have a rocking awesome day!
@@wingnut6867
Hello Sir... Jusf was reading your comments and replies here and I admit my mouth watered a little bit when I read the upgrades you had planned or already completed on your 3500HD. I've got an '09 that is going to need all of that itself but I'm afraid I won't be able to afford it all in one bunde. Wondering if you finusged up, and if you would mind sharing approximately what you
ended up paying in totsl for the stuff you talked about in this thread. Ty both for fun reading as well. Im always a fan of wit over sarcasm anyday.
Everything I needed. Well explained. Thank you sir
Really glad to hear this video helped! Have a great one and thanks for the feedback!
10:25 I have a 97 k2500 suburban and the ball joint directions said to point the fitting towards the inside of the vehicle. Well, you can see the relief in the control arm where you installed it correctly. Impossible to grease the fitting as per my directions. Such a little thing caused a big PITA. Wish mine come apart like yours did!!
That sounds like a ROYAL pain! Sorry to hear this is such a headache. Maybe one day I’ll get a chance to work on a 90’s and catch it on film. I wish you all the best, and thanks for reaching out!
Awesome video! It made my worries go away and I'm confident I can do my ball joint replacement.
I’m so glad this helped! Hope you have a safe and successful repair!!!
Great video Sir. Thank you for making this and even more so, thank you for reminding me to be grateful to God during the entire process of the job.
Thank you, my friend! And amen Brother! Life can make us so jaded…I have to constantly be reminded to stop and thank Him!
Excellent video brother--nice work keeping the FastForward a good amount of time while slowing it down when further info is needed. I'm.doing nearly this exact same job on an '09 Silverado 3500HD this coming weekend and I'll have you right there with me. Thanks very much.
Thank you so much for the feedback, brother! I’m really glad this helped, and wish you the best success in your truck repair:) Appreciate you!
I'm about to do this on my 06 2500 as well. This video helped me realize the headache I'm in for since I'm also doing the control arm bushings. Great video and thank you.
You’re most welcome, and yes, it’s a chore. You got this, though! Just be sure to keep those jack stands and extra safety precautions in place to keep you safe, friend:)
Got the 6 ton stands on the way and I'll do the tire trick as well.@@GrubNGas
@@auzzy89 rock on! Here’s to your success! Appreciate the comments!
Start spraying your torsion bars where they connect to lower control arms and keys with penetrating oil for a week or so before you start your job. That is going to be your biggest problem on disassembly, trust me.
@@bigredjohnson6921 thanks for the info, that helps a lot!
Bro what a joy to watch im so going to do the same with my 04' Avalanche Thank you sir
You’re most welcome, glad the video helped!
On my 1998 silverado I replaced both hub bearings, the rotor and hub bearings are held together with the 8 wheel studs on each side. Other than that this video was very informative thank you!!
I gotcha! Thanks for the feedback, and I’m glad it helped!!! Have a great one:)
I love your video.
It’s very detailed and edited speed when stepping obvious.
Appreciate you much, friend! It’s comments like this that keep me going!
Amazing job here only thing I seen was tightening the brushing at while car is loaded
Thanks for the feedback and the kind words! Have a wonderful day!
Just finished up replacing ball joint tie rod ends, next year new control arms for the 3/4 ,plow truck.
Heck yeah!!!
You, sir, know how to make an informative video. Thank you!
Appreciate you much, friend! Glad it helped, and you are most welcome!
I have to do this same job on my 04 2500. I could do it myself but I work so much I don't have time. Saving up to take it to the shop.
Totally understand that…it’s a time consuming job, no doubt.
that was so good im actually gonna subscribe! very in depth!!
Thank you friend, I’m glad it was helpful!!!
Great video I just subscribed to your channel, thanks for taking the time to make this video, I have a 2001 Chevy 2500 4x4 and I’m trying to get as much information as possible before I attempt to rebuild the front end.. Thanks
You’re most welcome, friend! Thank you for the feedback, and I’m really glad this video helped!!!
I'm with you, Tim, I got the same year in a GMC so I really appreciate GrubNGas's video !!
@@90westpoint thank you so much, friend! Appreciate your feedback and glad this video was of value to you:)
Good vid ! I just did my suburban and it was a long job. Never understood the plastic insert with the single hole on the camber guide cams. That fixes the camber and eliminates the capability of adjusting the camber. Mine on had 2 plastic guides on drivers side only. Not sure why
Yeah, that didn’t make sense to me either! Glad you got yours done!
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video I’ve got a 05 LLY with 233k need to tackle this job
Thanks so much! Glad the video was of use to you!
Bout to do the same thing and rebuild all control arms with new delco bushings/ oem parts. Thank you for the great video!
Those OEMs are the way to go! Thanks for the feedback, and I’m glad you enjoyed the video:)
About how long did it take start to finish?
I’m slow, but about 6-8 hours. And I was filming.
Subbed outstanding video, explained perfectly
Thank you so much, friend! It helps to know the video met expectations 💯
Nice this is very helpful. How have these parts held up? I’m trying to decide what brand components to go for
Thanks, friend! So far I’ve only had to replace one upper control arm because one started squeaking. If I had it to do all over again, I’d get the kit that has greasable zerk fittings on the ball joints. Other than that, phenomenal kit!
"My Lovely Bride"
I refer to my wife as the MLB commissioner. I tell people, too many side projects and I get fined for out of contract play bt the MLB. Good stuff mate👍
Hahaha! I love that, will have to try that one! Happy New Year, my friend!!!
Great video! You get to it. To the point.
Thanks so much, friend! That’s what I’m striving for in each video. Appreciate your feedback!
Curious as to how the Detroit axle parts are holding up? It’s tempting to buy the kit for the price but people say the parts are crap
So far so good. I had one upper control arm develop a squeak within 6 months, so I replaced it with a greasable upper ball joint. That’s the only thing I’d change is to put in serviceable ball joints in the upper position.
Not bad for 340K, nice job.
Thanks, friend!!! Appreciate the feedback!
That's a very well done video 👍
Thank you so much! Trying to improve with each one:)
Thank you brother. Great video!
Thank you, brother! Glad you enjoyed the video and I hope it was worth your time:) Have a blessed one!
I did the same and kept halving problem cause the bushing on the lower a arms where done
I think I may have this issue as well…😬
Awesome video! Still kinda scared to try to tackle this by myself.
But curious. How did the Detroit Axle parts hold up? Since this video was uploaded a year ago. Any update??
Thanks for the feedback! You got this, it is a challenge! So far so good! Only one control arm started squeaking.
So what is the good, bad, and ugly on the Detroit Axle parts after 1 year of service.
I am about to do the same job on my 2002 2500 and I am currently contemplating Detroit or Moog....
Well, the good is, all my parts have held up great…the one outlier is that the non-greasable upper control arms start to squeak about 6 months in. My advice is to definitely get uppers that have zerk fittings. Other than that, it’s been a great kit. The Moog is better quality, but the Detroit has held up nicely for me…minus the squeaks.
I replaced the squeaking upper with a greasable Moog.
Hey brother, great tutorial! To the point step-by-step, clear camera angles and i feel the 90% "how-to-do" commentary and 10% banter/chemistry with wifey struck a good balance.
Quick question. 01 Silverado 2500hd 4x4 and just recieved that same detroit axle kit and one thing that drew my attention was how not so heavy duty the upper control arms at least appear to me by comparison to whats on the truck just like the one you replaced in the video. So i was curious if its just a looks can be decieving thing or if it is just a lighter duty swap?
Thanks so much for the feedback on the video! It was a lot of sweat making it, but worth it:)
I too noticed the lighter upper control arms. I haven’t had any issues with them so far, but I did notice the non-greasable ball joints squeak on one side within a couple of months. If I had it to do all over again, I would have looked for uppers that have the zerk fittings. That’s my thoughts so far, hope that helps!
I rebuilt my front end to however I replaced the whole front end with a solid axle swap
Now that is cool! I’d like to do that one day!
@@GrubNGas 🤙🏿👍🏿
Gotta do mine soon. Thanks.
You’re most welcome! Hope it helps!
How r the parts holding up , i was skeptical of detroit axle. From all the mixed reviews, so i bought different parts
So far only one has failed. It was the upper ball joint and it started squeaking within 6 months, replaced it with a greasable one.
How has the Detroit axel front end held up since you put it on there.?
Still holding strong. Hoping to get some miles out of it:)
@@GrubNGas I’m thinking about getting the Detroit axel kit myself.
@@leviwoodside4005 it’s been a good purchase this far along. Hope it serves you well too!
How are the parts holding up? Been reading mixed reviews on them.
So far so good. One of the upper control arms started squeaking. Since they aren’t greasable I had to replace it. Everything else is doing good.
Best video yet!! Thanks!
Thank you so much, friend!
how is the Detroit axle ball joint holding up? Ive heard mixed reviews so far
So far so good. The only issue I had was with one of the uppers, it started squeaking within 6 months. Since it wasn’t greasable, I had to replace it.
Awesome video
Thank you, friend!
God is good. Thank you for the great video!
Amen, and you’re most welcome, friend!
Howcome didn’t replace lower control arm bushings?
I probably should have. Maybe a future video?
Yeah maybe! I saw that its connected to the torsion bar… looks like an interesting process just to do the bushings
@@Garage_Beers for real!
Great video by the way
Thanks so much!
Thank you, much appreciated
You’re most welcome!
anyone know the torque spec for those wheel bearings? i cant find it in the manual, and google is giving me a bunch of different specs. literally doing this same rebuild
Here’s a good link to read:
www.duramaxforum.com/threads/torque-spec-on-axel-nut.101522/
Ok man how well did this kit end up ?? I see reviews saying parts last two weeks to one year then some great price and worked well ?? I’ve used tie rods that’s it before but nothing else so I’m worried about quality but don’t wanna spend tons of money on other parts
It’s a mixed basket. I had to replace an upper control arm within a year. Definitely spend the money for the greasable ball joints (upper). Other than that, it’s a mostly good kit!
How are the parts holding up ?
So far so good…just one control arm started squeaking.
How has the kit held up?
So far, so good! One of the control arms developed a squeak, so I had to replace it with a greasable one. That’s the one thing I would change: I’d get two greasable upper control arms.
How is the kit holding up? I bought mine recently but after looking at the reviews kinda makes me wanna buy moog parts.
So far, so good. I’ve put a few thousand miles on the truck and it’s holding alignment, etc.
Thank you for taking the time to share this. I'm looking to do the same to my 2004 2500. How are things holding up for you? Any issues with these parts?
You’re most welcome, and thank you for commenting! So far, I’ve had really good service. One item in the list to get elsewhere is the upper control arms, as these are not greasable. Definitely get some that are greasable as one of mine started squeaking and I replaced it again.
What kit did you use for this job?
Here’s a link: Detroit Axle - 8 Lugs Front Wheel Hub Bearing + Upper Control Arm w/Ball Joint Suspension Kit Replacement for Silverado Sierra 2500 3500 www.amazon.com/dp/B07RWQMQR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JS69kpaNdgIxa
Good job brother
Thanks brother! Appreciate the feedback!
Why not switch out lower control arm to new ones instead of just replacing the ball joint
The price. I was being cheap, lol:)
Are these ebay parts? And how did they hold up?
These were purchased on Amazon, and they’ve held up pretty well! The link is in the video description:)
Would it matter if my truck is 2wd?
Definitely check the part number for the kit, but most parts should be the same. You can plug in the 2WD parameter in the Amazon parts search.
How are those parts holding up after a year
I’ve only had to replace on upper control arm since..and that’s because it started squeaking due to no greasable zerk fitting.
I went with the moog uppers. Let's see how hold up
@@riccoronado430 I’ll bet they do well!
Thanks!
You’re most welcome, friend!
How much did all that cost??
About $325. Here’s the link to the kit: amzn.to/42dpcaZ
👍🏆
Thank you!
Great way to ruin the sector shaft on the gearbox hitting it with a air hammer
😳 Whoops!
I now want an air chisel
Hahahaha! Do it! Totally worth it!!!
I would have probably gave up and just went and bought the whole new set everything new lol
I hear ya, lol!!!
Well done video, but watching you put dirty parts back made me cringe!!! A little Dawn dishwashing soap, and a powerwasher go a long way, but I'm a clean freak.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and yeah, I probably should’ve taken some time to clean them. I’ll keep that in mind next video:)
You didn't show tighten the torsion bar. They are people who only understand seeing someone else doing the exact way.
Ah good point…I might need to make another video showing that.
@@GrubNGas You did a good video to help others complete that task.
@@navigator185 thanks friend! Appreciate the feedback.
I am amazed you never pressure-washed the area you worked on , Detroit parts are not going to last , not watching whole video
There was definitely room for improvement in this video. The Detroit parts have done fairly well so far, but time will tell. Have a great day!
Way to much work maybe 4 weeks later don't have the strength no more
I hear ya…yeah, it was a chore!
if had say a bench vice and some proper wrenches you wouldn't need to jack hammer your stuff
This is true.