Hey I just did this, along with the H&S upper fuel filter replacement yesterday, took about 2 hours to do them both. Some helpful advice for all of us DIY'ers: I would get all of the prep work with lubing up all the O-rings done FIRST for both kits. The large replacement O-ring for the new aluminum fuel bowl can be lubed and then put back into the clean plastic bag it comes in, same for the fuel bowl on the inner lip and replace in the padded sleeve. Assemble everything as per instructions and video. Do NOT install the lower fuel filter before installation, it's extra weight for the hardest part of the job: Installing the new filter assembly!! I also used some blue Loctite gel on the 4 black allen head bolts that hold the aluminum fuel filter mount to the bracket. or, you can source some 1/4" lock washers, I am sort of picky about the possibility of bolts vibrating loose. Oh, and take your truck to the car wash, and wash your underside very well, especial those of us who go off road a lot. Wash from both sides to get all the loose mud and dirt free and gone. You may get a little wet kneeling down or even laying down, but you really need the fuel pump/filter assembly to be as clean as possible BEFORE you start to take things loose!! To avoid a long delay while draining the original fuel bowl, take loose the fuel line at the upper fuel filter on top of the engine first! Then loosen and remove the fuel filter drain on the lower assembly. The yellow tabs come loose easy, he has a separate video about them, but basically it's a 2 piece lock tab: the ridged part pulls up and the solid center section then pushes down, and it comes free. It will drain much faster!! about 3-5 minutes and its basically done!! If you can't get under your truck to do this upgrade for whatever reasons, you can drive the front wheels onto a pair of ramps, or jack up the driver front side/axel to increase the ground clearance. Be sure to use wheel chocks guys and gals. My truck is a 4x4 lifted with 35" tires so it was not an issue at all. A 1-1/4" socket should fit the original fuel bowl, and the new H&S aluminum one, if you don't have the metric size (32mm I think Arod said?). OR you can remove the drain plug and the water in fuel sensor and try a strap wrench. While the fuel is draining, you can remove the skid plate bolts and install the new bracket and mount. This is the hardest part: I did it by getting the rear most bolt and spacer installed very loosely first, then sneaking the other spacer onto the bracket and then slip in the second bolt. The spacers go BETWEEN the bracket and the truck frame, and the access is a little tricky, especially if you have very large hands. I used a short extension and a deep well socket to hand tighten them both a little bit, then put on the 3/8" battery impact and done! The original fuel filter bowl comes loose slowly because of the big fat O-ring, which you will have a replacement for. My original one was green and in great shape, but I used the new one. Be absolutely sure to dry and clean everything: threads, O-ring groove, etc. A small flat head screwdriver helps a lot to push rags around up there to clean and dry everything. I did do as Arod did, and leave the pump in place and installed the plastic "valve" or "shim" part while it was on the truck. Easy Peasy!! Getting the new fuel bowl to seat and start threading on took a couple of tries, just go slow, be sure it is on straight, and push and turn at the same time. IF it is not straight, it will try to cross thread and stop immediately, so don't force it with a wrench. When it goes on straight, once the threads engage you should feel it, it will turn with slight resistance from the large O-ring as the bowl tightens up and after a couple turns you will need a strap wrench or the socket to get it to tighten up fully. Lastly, when purging, I found that all I needed to do was turn on ignition and close driver door, wait and you will hear the pump cycle and run. After a minute or so, it finally quits. Cycle ignition key and let the pump run again till it stops. ( I closed the driver door so I didn't have to listen to the door chime and I could hear the pump easier). 2 cycles and mine started up after about a 5 second crank, and that was purging both upper and lower fuel filters at the same time. If you let it run for about 5-10 minutes, you should see no leaks. Done!! Good luck to you all, it's a pretty easy install with a few basic tools, and a little planning and preparation
So my concern is the WIF sensor is after the water separator. Does that concern anyone else? Therefore, in theory, by the time the sensor picks up the presence of water, it’s too late to drain it. I’m no mechanic though. Love the vid as always!
If you unscrew the filter housing a few turns, 3-4 I believe it will disconnect the dry brake and that will stop the tank siphoning, allowing you to completely drain the filter housing.
When you remove the fuel filter housing, give it a couple turns off, then drain the fuel from the yellow drain plug. That should get it pretty empty and prevent you from taking a bath.
I agree with some of the others, it's too bad that the WIF sensor is downstream of the filter, it would also be a benefit to have a better WIF sensor, I have had a few broken by flying mud and rocks....
Thanks for the video and the help you provided during my install. I took the pump housing off so I could install the plug but this took me a lot more time when I could have done it like you. I had so much air in the lines it took a long time to prime and purge the system. I ended up removing the return line from the upper filter to verify air was purging from the system and fuel was flowing during the priming cycle.
Love the video and want this for my truck. I changed the fuel filters and not its low fuel pressure and tried all the steps to fix that. Now it’s running bad and I’m guessing it’s the fuel pump. Saw this video and want this for my truck-2016 F250 super duty. Thanks for sharing. Very much appreciate it.
I did a 56 gallon tank and want to run this filter set up. I wondered if it was gonna be a problem. How often do you have to do filter changes with the new lower
2015 platinum dually!!! 165 5G with the 2micron CAT. Upper FASS bypass, and supplied by a 65 gallon Titan tank. Bang bang baby! She rips! HS makes good stuff!!
Ram Cummins filters are 3 micron and have separated chambers engineered in the front housing and filter and rear filter to keep water separate were always better than ford and Gm designs because it wasn't mopars but Cummins engineering. But I believe this was a improvement from the factory Ford OEM for sure. That Cat filter is very good.
Awesome video. I had mine crack but my pump was going bad anyway. Got a used assembly but next time that housing breaks I'll definitely be switching over to CAT
Along with the SPE cat oil filter conversion this is a great kit to have. I’m telling you guys, all it takes is for you to get home from work Friday night and go to change your fuel filters and crack the bowl, putting your truck out of commission until you can source another one. Ask me how I know….. GREAT vid Arod. Hopefully everything is going well nowadays
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I saw ur video about the filter adapter that got stuck on the filter… was afraid that would happen so got the SPE kit which replaced the OEM housing completely
The tapped in plastic piece permanently opens the anti drain valve that is usually held open by the filter media. Once you remove the lower filter housing the valve shuts so no diesel will keep gravity feeding out from the tank. The new aluminum bowl has no filter in it to push the valve open so the plastic piece takes it's place.
Awesome A. Great video. Can’t wait to do mine. I already have the upper one done. Question- no filter in the new canister now? It just fills with fuel and the new filter takes its place?
Would you recommend the upper relocation fuel filter kit for the 11-16 or the simple upgrade kit. I understand that the relocation will make changes easier but not sure that the claim of it being safer and less prone to fires is accurate because fluid still flows through that spot.
Rocking the one for my 2020! About to place an order to swap all fluids over to Amsoil. Been using the Banks rear diff cover with Amsoil and am going all out on both the 6.0 & 6.7! 👊 ....🤔 oh yeah by the way where can I get the social security number for this truck so I can sign it up for its government check? 😁
I have the upper, now I guess I need to get the lower. what is the small plastic piece you used the supplied AL drift for? What purpose does it serve? Ever thought of using rubber lined releasable zip ties?
Do any of these aftermarket filter kits offer a better micron rating then the stock filter. Trying to find the best filtration possible for the cp4 without spending a bunch of money of a Fass or air dog
Sorry Aaron, I hate it! Why? Because there is no way I could put it on my little Mazda 3. LOL Seriously though, looks great and you made it look so easy to install.
I just received my Cat fuel filler from HSM looks good but they give you inlet hose about 52 inches long and a outlet hose 24 inches long but I have S&B 70 gal fuel tank up grade I can’t put the outlet hose over the rail for a straight connection so I have to get a longer hose at 52 inches long with a 90 degree Quick disconnect on it then it will work 👍
I really want to add this to my 12 Treefiddy but I wonder about something settling in the HSM bowl as the low point in the system. I'm probably overthinking it but working in the mechanical industry I know crap tends to find it's way to the lowest point in a system. (Hence the dirt or drip leg/ sediment trap on natural gas lines.) I asked a similar question on FB and the consensus is that I'm a dolt.
Yeah capitals are good now is that a cat filter on the top by the master cylinder there too I appreciate it if you take it back to me and what's that all cost
I think I either have to change my fuel filters or I have air in the fuel lines. I watched your other video on changing the fuel pump and now seeing this, should I go with this kit? How much better filtration I get with this vs the factory OEM? Not sure if my pump is good or not because it’s making a beehive noise now when I just turn the ignition and then it goes away. But once the truck turns on then the noise goes away but not by much. The noise from the pump is still there. What do you recommend I do?
I replaced the turbo on my 14 Powerstroke with a SPE Strike turbo. Looking for advice on the Wastegate solenoid it’s buzzing on occasion, and I think it’s not performing well. Since the new turbo does not have a wastegate as was on the OEM, should I remove the original still installed?
The aluminum fuel bowl is cool if it worked with the factory fuel filter, the cat filter setup on the other hand looks to be a waste of money ,i can see road debris taking out the cat filter ,and wif sensor is not in the fuel separator so you better drain it all the time ,if water makes it the sensor you might have water make to the injection pump so i don't it fixes anything just a way burn money.
Most of the te the wif sensor is to late in a normal system anyways. Factory filter only holds a few hundred mL of water. The water quickly overwhelms the filter and goes to the CP4 anyways.
Ok what are the best to use on the 6.7 power stroke in fuel and oil filters know and are we still using motor craft fluids I like to see what you like to use because you are the one that works on them every day you see what they look like when you take them apart thanks
I have a question. I run my 01 e350 and 00 f550 on wmo and I'm looking to get a 6.7 but...can I run it on centrifuged wmo? Does the 6.7 has an optical sensor for the fuel? Somenone said he runs wmo on his 12 6.7.
At what point would you start upgrading this stuff and not worrying about warranty issues? I have a 2022 and I’m scared to do anything to it including a SNS disaster prevention kit and fear that they will void any warranty I bring in.
I did but cant seem to get the truck to stay primed the male end hose is on the inlet. The female on the out. Everything is tight and how it’s supposed to be.
Interesting thought. I'm sure you could run it because the fuel still fills the new HSM bowl as it did the filter/separator previously. Reminds me of coolant filtration. You are just adding a filter to the system. Not sure leaving the OE lower fuel filter is place would provide any benefit though. Also note that HSM says it will damage your fuel pump assembly if you do.
⅘I just use some Engine oil... Throw just a little splash in there. Wipe it around on them thread's good, in inside of that plastic bowl & stick the new o ring and there get a little oil on that as well...Then they come off like a dream.. Haven't broke one sense.. And was literally able to tighten ff housing "on my last ff change", all the way down by my hand.. Also I also blow that sucker off good before I start with the air blower .. After I pop the new filter in I dump some Howes in there up to the bottom of the threads.. with that engine oil... It might just help lube that p pump.. & saves for a couple cycles on the key switch.. 👤🙉🙈🙊
$489 dollars for the lower primary filter mod and $179 dollars for the upper secondary mod. That’s a lot of money to spend. I see the quality of the product but wow!
Ford should have this as a stock item and many other aftermarket components or make it an option to upgrade when buying a diesel not when your truck is not working properly or it left you stranded. 90.000$ truck and you still need new parts. What a joke of engineering an engine that you have to work on it as soon as you buy it.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod dude learns something cool from You bro and blasts you about the intro? Don’t watch and learn then guy. Awesome video ARod!! Best 6.7 guy on the interwebs
I’m always amazed at people who work on vehicles that don’t swear like I do when I work on them. Well done. Thank you for teaching us the way.
I do I just can't talk like that on the internet
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodwhy not? All of us who watch you do. You'd probably gain subscribers.🤔😉
Subscribers maybe but advertisers do not
Hey I just did this, along with the H&S upper fuel filter replacement yesterday, took about 2 hours to do them both. Some helpful advice for all of us DIY'ers:
I would get all of the prep work with lubing up all the O-rings done FIRST for both kits. The large replacement O-ring for the new aluminum fuel bowl can be lubed and then put back into the clean plastic bag it comes in, same for the fuel bowl on the inner lip and replace in the padded sleeve. Assemble everything as per instructions and video. Do NOT install the lower fuel filter before installation, it's extra weight for the hardest part of the job: Installing the new filter assembly!! I also used some blue Loctite gel on the 4 black allen head bolts that hold the aluminum fuel filter mount to the bracket. or, you can source some 1/4" lock washers, I am sort of picky about the possibility of bolts vibrating loose. Oh, and take your truck to the car wash, and wash your underside very well, especial those of us who go off road a lot. Wash from both sides to get all the loose mud and dirt free and gone. You may get a little wet kneeling down or even laying down, but you really need the fuel pump/filter assembly to be as clean as possible BEFORE you start to take things loose!! To avoid a long delay while draining the original fuel bowl, take loose the fuel line at the upper fuel filter on top of the engine first! Then loosen and remove the fuel filter drain on the lower assembly. The yellow tabs come loose easy, he has a separate video about them, but basically it's a 2 piece lock tab: the ridged part pulls up and the solid center section then pushes down, and it comes free. It will drain much faster!! about 3-5 minutes and its basically done!! If you can't get under your truck to do this upgrade for whatever reasons, you can drive the front wheels onto a pair of ramps, or jack up the driver front side/axel to increase the ground clearance. Be sure to use wheel chocks guys and gals. My truck is a 4x4 lifted with 35" tires so it was not an issue at all. A 1-1/4" socket should fit the original fuel bowl, and the new H&S aluminum one, if you don't have the metric size (32mm I think Arod said?). OR you can remove the drain plug and the water in fuel sensor and try a strap wrench. While the fuel is draining, you can remove the skid plate bolts and install the new bracket and mount. This is the hardest part: I did it by getting the rear most bolt and spacer installed very loosely first, then sneaking the other spacer onto the bracket and then slip in the second bolt. The spacers go BETWEEN the bracket and the truck frame, and the access is a little tricky, especially if you have very large hands. I used a short extension and a deep well socket to hand tighten them both a little bit, then put on the 3/8" battery impact and done! The original fuel filter bowl comes loose slowly because of the big fat O-ring, which you will have a replacement for. My original one was green and in great shape, but I used the new one. Be absolutely sure to dry and clean everything: threads, O-ring groove, etc. A small flat head screwdriver helps a lot to push rags around up there to clean and dry everything. I did do as Arod did, and leave the pump in place and installed the plastic "valve" or "shim" part while it was on the truck. Easy Peasy!! Getting the new fuel bowl to seat and start threading on took a couple of tries, just go slow, be sure it is on straight, and push and turn at the same time. IF it is not straight, it will try to cross thread and stop immediately, so don't force it with a wrench. When it goes on straight, once the threads engage you should feel it, it will turn with slight resistance from the large O-ring as the bowl tightens up and after a couple turns you will need a strap wrench or the socket to get it to tighten up fully. Lastly, when purging, I found that all I needed to do was turn on ignition and close driver door, wait and you will hear the pump cycle and run. After a minute or so, it finally quits. Cycle ignition key and let the pump run again till it stops. ( I closed the driver door so I didn't have to listen to the door chime and I could hear the pump easier). 2 cycles and mine started up after about a 5 second crank, and that was purging both upper and lower fuel filters at the same time. If you let it run for about 5-10 minutes, you should see no leaks. Done!!
Good luck to you all, it's a pretty easy install with a few basic tools, and a little planning and preparation
I've had one on my 2014 6.7l for 10k miles now and it's great. Install is very straightforward and the quality is exceptional.
Hsm baby! No otha
How often do you have to change that lower filter?
A bare plastic tie can cut through hose over time. Best to wrap the hose first then tie or use another time of binder.
So my concern is the WIF sensor is after the water separator. Does that concern anyone else? Therefore, in theory, by the time the sensor picks up the presence of water, it’s too late to drain it. I’m no mechanic though. Love the vid as always!
Nice work, and a Happy New Year 2023 to you all over there from Sweden
If you unscrew the filter housing a few turns, 3-4 I believe it will disconnect the dry brake and that will stop the tank siphoning, allowing you to completely drain the filter housing.
I think PSTT knows this but for some reason he didn't practice it in this video. I wonder why he forgot lol
That's only for alumidutys. 11-16 is done just like u saw here. I didn't 4get anything.
When you remove the fuel filter housing, give it a couple turns off, then drain the fuel from the yellow drain plug. That should get it pretty empty and prevent you from taking a bath.
I agree with some of the others, it's too bad that the WIF sensor is downstream of the filter, it would also be a benefit to have a better WIF sensor, I have had a few broken by flying mud and rocks....
Thanks for the video and the help you provided during my install. I took the pump housing off so I could install the plug but this took me a lot more time when I could have done it like you. I had so much air in the lines it took a long time to prime and purge the system. I ended up removing the return line from the upper filter to verify air was purging from the system and fuel was flowing during the priming cycle.
If you have that 17-22 Superduty
this one is for you!!!
ua-cam.com/video/wf4uk76La_s/v-deo.html
Got this one. ✅️
Hey dude, I really appreciate your time and instruction on these Ford powerstroke engines, I have an F- 350 4x4 2016 model
CONGRATULATIONS ON 100K+ SUBSCRIBERS, YOU MY MAN ROCK!
💪💪💪💪💪💪💯💯💯💯💯💯
Hell yeah the video I have been waiting for !! Great work !. I will be getting one of these for my 6.7 !
I've been waiting for this video. That is a great set up, thanks for sharing ARod you made it look so easy.
Love the video and want this for my truck. I changed the fuel filters and not its low fuel pressure and tried all the steps to fix that. Now it’s running bad and I’m guessing it’s the fuel pump. Saw this video and want this for my truck-2016 F250 super duty. Thanks for sharing. Very much appreciate it.
Just finished mine!! 🎉🎉🎉
Just did this. It's hell trying to install with a 50 gallon tank already in place but it can be done. Working blindly.
I did a 56 gallon tank and want to run this filter set up. I wondered if it was gonna be a problem. How often do you have to do filter changes with the new lower
@jamjon85 it shouldn't be any problems. I still change the fuel filters every other oil change.
@ thanks
Just ordered one Saturday for my 2012 treefiddy KR longbed dually to match the upper filter and my S&S gen2.1, can’t wait to install🎉 Great video!
Thanks pal
Camera work on this is phenomenal!
2015 platinum dually!!! 165 5G with the 2micron CAT. Upper FASS bypass, and supplied by a 65 gallon Titan tank. Bang bang baby! She rips!
HS makes good stuff!!
Good video. I just installed this kit on my 14 powerstroke
Ram Cummins filters are 3 micron and have separated chambers engineered in the front housing and filter and rear filter to keep water separate were always better than ford and Gm designs because it wasn't mopars but Cummins engineering. But I believe this was a improvement from the factory Ford OEM for sure. That Cat filter is very good.
Awesome video. I had mine crack but my pump was going bad anyway. Got a used assembly but next time that housing breaks I'll definitely be switching over to CAT
Along with the SPE cat oil filter conversion this is a great kit to have. I’m telling you guys, all it takes is for you to get home from work Friday night and go to change your fuel filters and crack the bowl, putting your truck out of commission until you can source another one. Ask me how I know….. GREAT vid Arod. Hopefully everything is going well nowadays
Yea 86 that filter
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I saw ur video about the filter adapter that got stuck on the filter… was afraid that would happen so got the SPE kit which replaced the OEM housing completely
What i shlda said was 86 that name on your part you put on...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ole SPE lol never used their stuff before heard decent things about em
@40ozdon read the BBB
Two questions:
1. What does that tapped in plastic plug do?
2. Does the water sensor probe still function?
The tapped in plastic piece permanently opens the anti drain valve that is usually held open by the filter media. Once you remove the lower filter housing the valve shuts so no diesel will keep gravity feeding out from the tank. The new aluminum bowl has no filter in it to push the valve open so the plastic piece takes it's place.
Dang I’m curious if those bracket bolts even fit with an aftermarket fuel tank. That might put a wrench in this idea :/ unless I weld the bracket on
I was wondering the same and if it will fit with traction bars. The ones I have are 2" o.d.
Same here I have a 70 gal from S&B. Curious if it would fit or if I’d have to get creative
Oh that looks good! Great install.
Good viderographer
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ❤️
Looks like a nice bit of kit to add to the other 6.7L mods to get.
I’ve been running the diesel site kit for around 100k miles. Been thinking of swapping to this to make it faster to swap filters.
Never been a big fan of suction filtration, prefer pressure filtration. AirDog or Fass pump w/filtration seems a better route IMHO
Awesome A. Great video. Can’t wait to do mine. I already have the upper one done. Question- no filter in the new canister now? It just fills with fuel and the new filter takes its place?
Yup
pull the factory filter out and leave it out then you don't have to worry about the plastic nut ever again, then install a after market filter.
Yes I love it
Would you recommend the upper relocation fuel filter kit for the 11-16 or the simple upgrade kit. I understand that the relocation will make changes easier but not sure that the claim of it being safer and less prone to fires is accurate because fluid still flows through that spot.
Or u cld juss do the hsm filter up top so that there's no more plastique
Awesome job next mod
Rocking the one for my 2020! About to place an order to swap all fluids over to Amsoil. Been using the Banks rear diff cover with Amsoil and am going all out on both the 6.0 & 6.7! 👊 ....🤔 oh yeah by the way where can I get the social security number for this truck so I can sign it up for its government check? 😁
Lmaooo
I have the upper, now I guess I need to get the lower. what is the small plastic piece you used the supplied AL drift for? What purpose does it serve? Ever thought of using rubber lined releasable zip ties?
Thats awesome!!
A he'll ya im getting this, good video love your channel
Yes need this
Got to get them upgrades for steel duty.
I like this kit but nobody has said what the plastic piece that u hammer in what’s it’s purpose do u need to add it or not to use that filter still
Heck yeah, i need one bad !!!!
Hell yeah I want it!
15:44 so the pump is pulling fuel through the filter from the tank, correct?
Yes
Do any of these aftermarket filter kits offer a better micron rating then the stock filter. Trying to find the best filtration possible for the cp4 without spending a bunch of money of a Fass or air dog
Does H&S have an option for the S&B fuel tank. I believe the location of the filter will have to change with the larger tank?
Yes for alumidutys, 11-16....hmmm
Sorry Aaron, I hate it! Why? Because there is no way I could put it on my little Mazda 3. LOL Seriously though, looks great and you made it look so easy to install.
I just received my Cat fuel filler from HSM looks good but they give you inlet hose about 52 inches long and a outlet hose 24 inches long but I have S&B 70 gal fuel tank up grade I can’t put the outlet hose over the rail for a straight connection so I have to get a longer hose at 52 inches long with a 90 degree
Quick disconnect on it then it will work 👍
Did H&S supply longer hose or you had to get it yourself? I have same tank
@@kevhino260 yes they did
@@edwardeplett3231 does the bottom of the L bracket where CAT filter goes, rub on fuel tank ?
@@kevhino260 no it doesn’t
@@edwardeplett3231 thank you. I’m going to order one
Will be next on this list of upgrades.
Awsome 👍
I really want to add this to my 12 Treefiddy but I wonder about something settling in the HSM bowl as the low point in the system. I'm probably overthinking it but working in the mechanical industry I know crap tends to find it's way to the lowest point in a system. (Hence the dirt or drip leg/ sediment trap on natural gas lines.) I asked a similar question on FB and the consensus is that I'm a dolt.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
The HSM bowl is after the filter, so ideally, nothing should be settling in it.
My OBS is getting one of these bad boys now
Booom done
Have you done a video on the FASS fuel system for the 2022 6.7?
Nope
@PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod is that something you can look into? My dealer is offering it to me for around $1800. Wondering if it's worth it
Nvr worked with fass. Maybe they shld reach out🤔
Dang now I want it for my 12 f3shitty .
Great video
Yeah capitals are good now is that a cat filter on the top by the master cylinder there too I appreciate it if you take it back to me and what's that all cost
Watch our mod playlist bud
I snapped one even after loosening it with a strap wrench.
Will it work on a 2011 F350 cabin chassis truck
So, I should have done this before the titan 60 gal tank...
That Truck needs some S&B body mounts lol 👍
I think I either have to change my fuel filters or I have air in the fuel lines. I watched your other video on changing the fuel pump and now seeing this, should I go with this kit? How much better filtration I get with this vs the factory OEM? Not sure if my pump is good or not because it’s making a beehive noise now when I just turn the ignition and then it goes away. But once the truck turns on then the noise goes away but not by much. The noise from the pump is still there. What do you recommend I do?
You need to replace that pump with a new OEM one. Don't buy aftermarket ones, they are garbage
If it's humming the filter is severely restricted and the pump is cavitating.
It looks like those hoses are a bit longer than needed. Do you know if the location of the bracket will work with an aftermarket titan tank?
Call them up, thats a good question.
There are clear instructions from HSM on properly installing this kit.
I replaced the turbo on my 14 Powerstroke with a SPE Strike turbo. Looking for advice on the Wastegate solenoid it’s buzzing on occasion, and I think it’s not performing well. Since the new turbo does not have a wastegate as was on the OEM, should I remove the original still installed?
...I cannot comment on your choice of purchase, we are sorry.
Is the type of plastic if it’s gone cheap over the years I’m plastic doesn’t like to get warm
my actual housing is cracked. are there any upgrade kits that completely replace that?
Nope
The aluminum fuel bowl is cool if it worked with the factory fuel filter, the cat filter setup on the other hand looks to be a waste of money ,i can see road debris taking out the cat filter ,and wif sensor is not in the fuel separator so you better drain it all the time ,if water makes it the sensor you might have water make to the injection pump so i don't it fixes anything just a way burn money.
Thanks for watching
Most of the te the wif sensor is to late in a normal system anyways. Factory filter only holds a few hundred mL of water. The water quickly overwhelms the filter and goes to the CP4 anyways.
U can buy just the aluminum bowl and still use the factory filter as long as u don’t add that plastic piece u hammer in the housing
@@tonycloutier8148
Cool i might get that thanks
I wish it was a dual filter kit like the 2017 and newer kit especially if u can’t put the factory filter back on
Are these CAT filter’s superior to the factory units?
I wound up gettin a nicer Donaldson
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Which Donaldson did you go with?
They should've just made an identical filter assembly in aluminum and been done with it. The whole CAT filter situation doesn't make sense to me..
I always thought it was better to use motor craft filters and and fluids
Not anymore
Ok what are the best to use on the 6.7 power stroke in fuel and oil filters know and are we still using motor craft fluids I like to see what you like to use because you are the one that works on them every day you see what they look like when you take them apart thanks
I have a question. I run my 01 e350 and 00 f550 on wmo and I'm looking to get a 6.7 but...can I run it on centrifuged wmo?
Does the 6.7 has an optical sensor for the fuel?
Somenone said he runs wmo on his 12 6.7.
Wmo?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod waste motor oil or black diesel.
I dunno bout that. No way thats gettin compressed to 30k psi brah
With how expensive a truck is today, its almost cheaper to just get a CAT powered truck.
Yep, if I ever need a dually ill just buy a semi.
I run the fass titanium 140 that's all you need
What is the s/s filter is that a disaster prevention kit or just another filter
It's just a fuel reservoir after the aluminum bowl is threaded on. No filter media in it.
Yes I do want
At what point would you start upgrading this stuff and not worrying about warranty issues? I have a 2022 and I’m scared to do anything to it including a SNS disaster prevention kit and fear that they will void any warranty I bring in.
No worries man! Read the white label under the hood above your LH head lamp & tell them to pound sand, PERIOD
Dealers and Ford must prove that the aftermarket parts cause the failure.
What about a 2022 6.7, any filter kit for it?
Read the pinn'ed comments
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod pinn'ed?
Goto the comment section, you'll see
And what exactly are you doing to prime the “air”
.....watch the video then.....
Do you prime just like a normal want cycle the key 100 times and then crank??
Did u watch the video, or no
I did but cant seem to get the truck to stay primed the male end hose is on the inlet. The female on the out. Everything is tight and how it’s supposed to be.
Seems like it’s just returning all the fuel to the tank.
Curious, can you still run a filter in the stock location too?
Nope
No way
Interesting thought. I'm sure you could run it because the fuel still fills the new HSM bowl as it did the filter/separator previously. Reminds me of coolant filtration. You are just adding a filter to the system. Not sure leaving the OE lower fuel filter is place would provide any benefit though. Also note that HSM says it will damage your fuel pump assembly if you do.
@@triumphtriple95 its just further restriction and the filter wouldn't even fit.
⅘I just use some Engine oil... Throw just a little splash in there. Wipe it around on them thread's good, in inside of that plastic bowl & stick the new o ring and there get a little oil on that as well...Then they come off like a dream.. Haven't broke one sense.. And was literally able to tighten ff housing "on my last ff change", all the way down by my hand..
Also
I also blow that sucker off good before I start with the air blower ..
After I pop the new filter in I dump some Howes in there up to the bottom of the threads.. with that engine oil... It might just help lube that p pump.. & saves for a couple cycles on the key switch.. 👤🙉🙈🙊
$489 dollars for the lower primary filter mod and $179 dollars for the upper secondary mod. That’s a lot of money to spend. I see the quality of the product but wow!
What’s the Part Number for the Kit?
Read the description & goto their site..
I'm interested in that kit... Do you have any discount codes???
Gosh im sorry i do not, but they will get ya set up 👌👌
If you qualify, Diesel Power Products give a military/ veteran discount.
Fancy cap, doesn’t fix the main problem tho
& that wld be??
I don’t like the hose lengths and the way it’s wrapped and draped. Too bad they did do rigid stainless and put more thought into it
Great job but man you need to oil you keeper
New 1 since then🫡
Really wish you wasn’t so far away your a great diesel mechanic we need some one as good as you here in Arkansas
@rickketchumn4458 we have been getting trucks shipped to us!
The new SPE kit is far superior to any other kit out there, too bad they there customer service sucks and they dont stand behind their products.
Far superior, huh 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 nice words
Their alum duty setup is nice from SPE
Except for the fact they don't make this for 11-16. Also looks like theirs hangs down pretty low.
Ford should have this as a stock item and many other aftermarket components or make it an option to upgrade when buying a diesel not when your truck is not working properly or it left you stranded. 90.000$ truck and you still need new parts. What a joke of engineering an engine that you have to work on it as soon as you buy it.
nothing wrong with Ford OE fuel filtration system. stay away from the JUNK
Video content is fine. But that intro..... sucks!
Old video guy......
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
dude learns something cool from You bro and blasts you about the intro? Don’t watch and learn then guy. Awesome video ARod!! Best 6.7 guy on the interwebs
Where I should getthat kit