I think the tracking mechanism on this belt sand is so ingenious and fascinating. Another thing that always mesmerizes me is how the trunnion rotates perfectly around the drive shaft of the lower drum so that re-alignment with the headstock is not necessary when changing from the vertical to horizontal position. These machines were invented by really smart people. To me that's part of the joy of working with them.
Thanks Scott- this video got my belt sander up and running today. It is an original Magna, with labeling showing it was made in Menlo Park, CA I think it used to be green but someone painted it grey at one point.
Truly a timely video Scott, Thanks. I just cannot believe how much I forget through the years and how simulating to the old brain, the video presentation is. I still have and even use all of the documentation Shop Smith provided although having an excellent presenter makes the information sink in better.
Great video ! I use my belt sander for commercial production work. Just cant wear out the fool thing. Works like new ! I use the back side to round corners of 3/4 " square stock. Works perfectly. This is commercial heavy duty equipment. Never over heats. Use it continuously for 2 / 3 hrs at a time.
Scott in your follow up any ideas of worth of the drum sander that goes on the shift that sticks out on side opposite of drive hub. Pretty pricey. Maybe just buy set from HF, for use in Jacob's chuck, or on separate drill press. Thanks for video. If I lived closer I would bring truck down and help you move shop. Have a good night
I use the Harbor Freight Drum sander set with the 1/2 inch router bit chuck. Perfect piston fit. I like being able to cut my own sandpaper "drums" from 3 inch belts.
Glad I ran into your channel Scott! I've wanted a Shop Smith for almost 50 years and finally purchased one today. It's a 1955 greenie that has almost every attachment and runs great. I'm planning to give it a light restoration and then use the heck out it. Thanks for all your great info!
I've been really hesitant to pull the trigger on this because of all the tracking issues I've read about. Your explanation answers the problems. I appreciate it.
Thanks Scott! I picked up an old SS belt sander that I’ve never used, your video will kickstart me to set it up finally. I hope your move is not too stressful! My last move a year ago was brutal but woodworking with my SS tools was, and still is, a great comfort.
I just bought an old SS belt sander as well actually I bought the whole shop. Lol I know it's not everything but it was quite a bit. But the man that I bought it from told me that the upper bearings would probably need to be replaced in that upper pulley.
Hello and thank you for all of your videos! I just picked up a Shopsmith Belt Sander and it appears to be the same model that you have in this video. I ordered an owners manual from Shopsmith, but I believe it is for a newer version that includes a dust port. I assume and hope that is the main difference and I am encouraged by your comments on this sander.
Glad you got to this SPT Scott. It was included in my last purchase in the wild that I drug out of the mountains of NC and I have been waiting to hear your take on how they operate and how to adjust. Looks like a complete teardown is in order for mine. Thanks for your videos on this great piece of equipment. Blessings, Bruce
Thank you so much for putting these videos out. I've been looking for current videos that weren't done in the eighties. I've learned more about my shopsmith in just a few of your videos than any others I've watched. Keep it up please, I do so want to become more knowledgeable on this tool that I've had now for over thirty years. Thanks again.
I received a non-serious injury on Saturday using the belt sander. It hurt like you know what for several hours but turned out to be just some bruising to my finders. I was wearing gloves so no gore. But, I got lucky. In short, my fingers got caught between a long heavy work piece and the idler drum when feeding the work piece over the belt in horizontal mode. Basically, I created a pinch point then promptly stuck my fingers in it. To quote Scott, "What a maroon." There are two other pinch points that I know of, between the belt and table and between the belt and dust collection fitting. I feel compelled to wish everyone safety and good fortune in the workshop.
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you Scott! I'm only a month in, I'm restoring an modernised Mk5 machine and a load of accessories, and I'm already obsessed. A month ago I didn't even know what a ShopSmith was but I have an engineering mind so I learn fast and love tinkering. It is going to be so useful in my workshop given that it does so much! Thanks for the wisdom, your passion for the subject and your channel is right up there! 👍👍👍
Early on (way, way before acquiring my Shopsmith), I had rigged a stand for my B&D 3x21 belt sander to (a) clamp to my bench while (b) using it horizontally (c) with a table. Worked great. Then I got the Shopsmith and the 12" disc was the bomb! Until I got the 6x48 a couple of years ago. Now we're cooking with gas! I still have the B&D & the stand. I never know when I might need it.
I've always liked how Shopsmith kept the Magna logo casting molds for the longest time before updating them. Which applies to this tool (body casting), the jig saw (gearbox cover), and the jointer (cutter guard) seen on my 1980 SPT's. Shopsmith really knew how to save a buck back then. Of course so did Magna, the engineering of the 6" belt sander with the spacers between the body castings are left over way and bench tube pieces. You taught me that one, Scott.
That said, it was always thrilling to see the beautiful new parts when they updated the castings. I was working there when they made the change to the jigsaw and the belt sander.
This video is super helpful! I had a huge mental block over that cam tensioner... until 10 minutes ago. My idler drum is also quite a bit stiff. I remember a sawdust session video where he takes it apart. That'll be next...
Another great demonstration, Scott! Thanks so much. My belt sander is definitely under utilized. I need to get it out and use it more than I do. You inspire me to get in the shop more.
Okay I am here to study up scott. I just purchased one online for $100 from a guy plus $34 shipping. I think we was talking in one of your comments. I know it was a shopsmith video I said I need one he said I have two. Lol Sending him money Fri
My shopsmith belt sander loses tension constantly when it's running. To the point that it's not even useable. I've tried retensioning it as per the manual, but no dice. Any advice Scott?
Great into!!! Didn't know about the bolt that can be loosened in the tensioning process. I've always had to fight to change belts so I tend to over wear them out. Also will need to clean and ways the adjustment. Thanks
I apologize in advance for making too many comments on this one. As consolation, I hope the extra comments boost this video with the UA-cam Algorithm. Regarding the extra trunnion bolt, which I am also missing, here are two excerpts from my Belt Sander manual. Page 4 - "Remove the extra bolt at the back of the belt sander, below the shaft. (Keep this bolt for later use.)" Page 17 - "However, avoid setting the belt sander at an angle in between. The base casting is designed so that it can brace the sander when it's in a horizontal or vertical position. If you use the belt sander at an odd angle, use the extra bolt for additional support." It never occurred to me to use this at any angle other than vertical and horizontal.
Thank you so much for all your videos. They have been a lifesaver. I purchased some used Shopsmith accessories in an estate sale and have had some difficulty restoring them. Your videos are extremely helpful. Please keep em coming. I am revitalizing my belt sander. You mentioned something about changing out the rubber sleeve on the drive drum. Please upload any info you can. Thanks again.
Thanks fo the belt sander video. I just bought a used 510 and got a belt sander, jointer and dust collector with it. I liked the demonstration. I think I’m also missing the bolt….
SS is my fav. belt sand.er, far better than my Porter-Cable. Mine is a 1984 Model. I bought my SS from a friend 6 yrs ago, his wife bought it for him in 84 for his BD and he had never unboxed it. So basically I have a brand new 84 mod. w/ all the accessories.. Good Luck on your House moving Scott
Wow, that's great. Do you still have the 1 1/4" dust port or have you upgraded to the 2 1/2"? I need to upgrade this one before I put it to some real use. Scott
Scott, I need a deadhead sander for Guitar necks. The working area needs to be 12 to 14 inches long to fit between the contours on the neck. This platform looks great but would be too long. So, I guess I will be designing and building one for my Total Turd!! Dropping the full 4 K version Thickness Sander build today!!
You forgot to mention the out put shaft that can run a drum or disk and if you have the flex tool the drill chuck. I plan on putting mine on my powerstation and I am going to try to mount a table with the disk and I have a couple shopsmith tubes and carriage I am thinking about mounting them so I can use my 500 main table with the disk sander on the back side of the power station. To be determined, Lol. But I want to build a sanding station. Alongside my 2 x72. Now that's what Shopsmith should make next. Besides knife making I do not think a day goes by in my shop My 2x 72 does not come on. mine is homemade but I love it all the same. Talk about a belt staying cool. 72" they do not load up. I am still collecting a little at a time.
Yes, in this video I did, but I did cover it in the follow up video which is now private for channel members. It’s not something that I rely on often, but it is handy at times.
Well in the past year I forgot about the tensioning bolt. Scott reminded me of this video. In the past year I forgot the very thing I made a comment on. Hopefully it’s not Alzheimer’s 😂. 😊 just builds the case for being a channel member.
I also add a drum sander on the output shaft opposite the drive coupler. Some are hidden with the cone cover that protects people from the shaft turning. If you use the 6” drum, with the new 2” sand paper, you can have a drum with 3 different grits to finish up any inside curves. I made a shorty with strip sander on the left and belt/drum combo on the right. Handles most application for sanding in one small location, I’ll post a picture on your FB link to this video if you want.
Yes, please do. In the middle of editing this, I realized that I forgot to mention running accessories on that shaft, so I'll be sure to mention it in the follow-up. Scott
I rebuilt my sander and had my drive wheel turn down flat. Unbelievable how much easier it is to track now. Just wish the side rails were in better shape.
Two pop culture quotes I had not heard in years. In the video Scott said "What a maroon" from Looney Tunes and here "... down by the river" from SNL. You guys are on a roll.
Love my SS belt sander. I’m thinking of buying a second 500 just to convert to a shorty to hold my bandsaw and belt sander or jointer full time so they’ll be ready for use rather than moving the from storage to SS when I need them. Maybe that’s a future video for you Scott, creating a SS shorty - ideal tube length, pitfalls, etc…. Love the channel.
Oh, that would really put me face to face with one of my hang-ups! I don't like the idea of cutting down a Mark V and would rather build a stand that holds and powers SPTs, but I get that the form factor is ideal and that you could always just add a new set of full-size tubes to bring it back to full-function. I know these things but I still have issues! Thanks for the suggestion and perhaps I'll tackle my issues one of these days. Scott
yep watching your videos, just dragged my Shop Smith out of shed, my late father bought me few years ago, mice had made home in the boxes so I have a little clean up to do, but I have no manual on set up procedures, or what can be left on the stand what has to be removed. ? so your videos very helping me figure out what goes where. i was told the previous owner made table legs with it. So want to set up mine to use band saw, and make bowls. any suggestions. i am open.
Welcome to the Shopsmith family! I highly recommend that you head over to eBay and purchase an owners manual and a copy of the book “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone“. Ideally your want to purchase those from the same era that your machine was built, but it’s not entirely critical.
That was a good video thank you very much. I just bought a shopsmith that came with the belt sander. Told me I would need to rebuild the upper Pulley. I haven't picked it up yet I'm supposed to pick it up this week. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
That’s a great sander! I believe that you can find a complete rebuild video by typing Shopsmith belt sander rebuild in the search box. I know that Nick Engler did one as did Jacob Anderson. Scott
Thanks Scott, that was a great review. I've used my sander many many times and love it. I don't have many tracking issues; I always seem to be able to get it working. I didn't know about adjusting the screws underneath the roller. That's great information. Can you go into a bit more detail about which is the right direction to put the sanding belt on if there are no directional arrows?
I hope I am not too late to make the mid-week Q&A. My belt sander is one of the most used spts in my Shopsmith collection. I should also add that I am in Western Canada where SS can be hard to find. My son picked up a well used belt sander a few years ago that has some deep grooves cut into the back side of the side castings by the belt tracking too far off the platen. Do you have a recommendation on what to fill the grooves with? Also, can the 6x48 belt sander be run in reverse to sharpen tools?
The STUMPED video is currently uploading, so yes, you missed it, but in it, I sort of answer your question around running in reverse. As for filling the grooves, your best bet is to used Bonodo and any brand of auto body filler, then touch it up with spray paint from Shopsmith. They seem to have a proprietary color and their paint will match it perfectly. You may be able to get that paint from All-In-One Wood Tools in Oakville. Scott
Thanks for another great, helpful video !! I've been chomping at the bit to get my hands on one of these ... now, even more !! Best of luck with the move to your new home !! I hope it goes as smoothly as we all WISH it would ....LOL !! If you were closer I'd be happy to lend a hand. Take care and best wishes !!
@@MyGrowthRings Well if you ever changed a innertube on a bicycle you will recognize it eminently. Evidently the original sleeve is not available or cost Shopsmith too much to have produced, so the went to a innertube. On top of that I just received verbal instructions on how to install the sleeve. Slide the sleeve on, roll sleeve half way back like a sock coat the rubber and drive cylinder with rubber contact cement, then roll sleeve back. Repeat on other half. The sleeve is already to big, slid it on by hand no problem. Once you roll it back long enough to apply rubber cement the tube should be all stretched out of shape. This installation has disaster written all over it.
@@MyGrowthRings The belt sander that I purchased for $10.00 needs totally rebuilt. Both idler and drive drums are crowned. Everything needs cleaned and reassembled and adjusted. How difficult will it be to get the belt to track with both drums crowned? Originally both drums were full of shredded sanding belt and bound up was the reason for the total rebuild.
I’ve been looking for one of those. It’s the next Shopsmith attachment on my list! I’m gonna bookmark this so I can go through it once I find one. Thanks Scott... great job covering capabilities, quirks and fixes.
Scott -- really good videos. Have a quick question about the back up plate (PN 502963; Model 640) for my 6" belt sander purchased in 1980. I recently was sanding sides on a jewelry box and noted that the back up plate is not totally flat -- perhaps up to 1/64" off between the mounting screws. Is this just because the sander has been used so much, or is the back up plate designed that way. Plan to purchase a new back up plate, but wanted your opinion first. Thanks
When reassembling the belt sander does it matter which way you put in the drive drum? I don’t see a different in the sides and I’m not sure which was originally the side facing the headstock and which was the auxiliary spindle.
The shaft that is on the side furthest from the headstock is a 5/8" shaft and will hold any of the accessories that fit on the quill, including a drum sander, a chuck with small drums, a flap wheel, a sanding disc, you name it. I just forgot to show it but will later this week. Scott
Just bought a Shopsmith belt sander for $10.00. Yes, it does need overhaled. It is missing the complete table assembly. Hopefully you have an idea on where to get one. The person I purchased has hundreds of Shopsmith parts and is selling everything for next to nothing. I have a band saw that I bought for $35.00 and would like to trade it to someone for a belt sander table. It is missing the mounting pins and needs cleaned up, new tires and has a cast iron table.
I happen to have an early model belt sander in pieces on my bench. Cleanup is going well enough, but the bearings on the drive drum don't seem very smooth. If you have any tips on checking the bearings and recommendations on how to replace them I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the video... Moving sucks, hope it goes smoothly.
No real words of wisdom besides trust your instincts. It they feel rough they probably need to go. Even a cheap Harbor Freight bearing puller is your friend at this point. Scott
I got my shopsmith mark 5 and 6" belt sander in the late 1970th. I need to replace the bevel robber drive drum if you could do a video or that would help me.
Is it worth picking one of these up if the table is missing asking $100. How hard to find/expensive is it to replace the table. Or build a diy table solution.
Jeremy, Shopsmith still makes them and there are also people who part them out on eBay. I purchased one without a table because it was a deal and there are some operations that can be done without the table. Is it work $100? That’s up to you. Scott
That’s wide open to the user, but the manual gives a couple ranges basked upon grit and what you are sanding. You can also get some of that information from the sand paper supplier, but that will usually be shared in FPM, which you’ll then have to convert to RPMs.
It can, as long as your marching has the appropriate add-on bracket to hold them. Magna offered this part and a kit to allow the use of the coupler to drive the SPT’s and some owners made their own from metal or wood. I would encourage you to check out the 10 of your owners group on Facebook or to search for Shopsmith Forums, because several people have shared this over the years. Scott
Scott, Took your advice and bought a sander. A few questions: 1. How do I reset the tension knob on the idler drum to know where “zero” is before the 4 turns? 2. I am assuming this just tightens the internal spring as every time I turn it, the drum goes back to the same position. Is his correct? 3. When I get the tracking right with no load, when I start to sand, the belt moves away from the headstock. When it gets a bit over, I pull the wood away and the belt returns to the center. Is this right?
Hey James. The starting point is after you hit the release button and allow the spring to release all of its tension. If pressing the release button does not cause the knob to spin you would be at zero. Yes, it is an internal spring that you are tensioning in the drum itself should spin free. If the belt is moving substantially under load, you either need to raise the left side tracking nut, or check to make sure that the bottom drive drum is not crowned. Good luck as you get this dialed in. Scott
Scott, As you talk about in your video I bought my Shopsmith and sander used and had no tension on the idler arm. However mine does not rotate as you demonstrate. Would you demonstrate repair of the tensioning mechanism or point me to videos where I can see this. I have been unable to get a manual from Shopsmith for this accessory. I'm frustrated as this is one of my most used tools (or was). I'm a subscriber and love your channel. Thanks for all the great videos. I need them bad!
Hey Frank, Yes, what you are experiencing is not uncommon with a tool that is sat idle for a while. The upper drama runs on greased bushings and the grease will become solid as a rock over time if not used or maintained. I will cover this but it will be a while before I will be able to do to our relocation. I’ll put it high on the list though. Scott
In the meantime, you’re not going to break anything if you shoot a little WS40 on the bushing inside the drum and begin to rock it back-and-forth. Also, a little bit of heat from a heat gun or a hairdryer applied to the opened ends won’t hurt either. If you can get it to loosen-up, throw a belt on it and let it run for 20 minutes to loosen things up. That will get you going for now.
@@MyGrowthRings Scott I looked closely at the picture of the idler roller you showed and the tensioning system. I have a roll pin that blocks rotation of the shaft on that end. It looks identical to the roll pin on the opposite end of the roller. The picture you show in the video doesn't show the pin protruding on the adjustment end. Could someone replacing the spring not installed this correctly?
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, Great news! I was correct about the roll pin. I ground it down so it no longer catches on the aluminum guide. The tensioning system is working correctly. Thank you so much for your video. That picture was worth a thousand words!
Sure. I mention in the video description that "I searched for quite a while to find a comfortable apron and have been really happy with this one: amzn.to/2IRhONZ And yes, Amazon did use a photo of me in the apron!" I used to have a denim Shopsmith apron that I liked for short sessions, but after a couple of hours, it really started cutting into my neck, especially on a hot, NC day. So I went on a search for one that only rests on my shoulders. It's a little bit of a challenge to put on, but once it's on I really like it. Scott
Scott - Question about using the belt sander on a Power Stand (not a Power Station, and not a Crafter Station). It seems that the machine won't come up to operating speed UNLESS the pulley guard has been removed. Apparently, the slack in the pulley belt allows the belt to contact the guard and the motor spins, but the sanding belt won't move. The pulleys on this are: the dual 2", 3" pulley on the motor (1/2 HP motor) and the 3" on the tool. Given your many years of experience, what suggestions do you have for me about this? Thanks in advance.
Are you running a rubber belt? My preference is to replace them with a link belt, which will not only drive the sander with less vibration, but it will make the turn around the 2” pulley easier and they tend to have better traction (less slippage). Either way, check your tension and just know that too much tension is almost as bad as too little. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Okay. Yes, rubber belt. How does one check tension? Mine is really slack. And I am not using the 2" side of the pulley. Not really sure if I should. So the link belt is the one that can be shortened/lengthened? Usually a red color? Would those fixed length belts that look like they are for a cogged gear might do a better job?
@@billrogers6863 There's an instruction sheet floating around on the Shopsmith Forums on the Shopsmith Owners Facebook group that covers all the STP stands, but basically you should be able to pinch the two sides of the belt at the center point between the top and bottom pulley and they shouldn't get closer than 1" apart. Scott
Shopsmith offers them on their website at www.shopsmith.com/service/beltsander/blt_parts_list.htm It’s listed as “62 502932 Belt Sander Driver Sleeve Drive Sleeve”
Scott, just curious as to what my ShopSmith system would be worth? I have the Mark V 500 I purchased in I think 1983 give or take here’s what I have and everything is in perfect shape, no rust totally up and running. I have the Mark V 500, Belt sander, strip sander, Jointer, bandsaw, jig saw, scroll saw, Planner w/ extra knives, plus all original items that came with it, lethe duplicator, mortising attachment, shaper attachment, many accessories such as shaper knives, live centers, original lethe chisels, jig saw, band saw, scroll saw blades and files, saw blades, feather boards, chicks, face plates, Hmmm other stuff can’t think of all of it so like I said everything perfect condition what would you think the whole enchilada is worth? Best guess is fine
Michael, I can’t even venture a guess because it just depends on too many factors. I wrote a blog post about selling Shopsmith tools that might be of help. The good news is we are entering the best time of the year for selling tools! shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2009/08/tips-and-techniques-for-selling-your.html?m=1
Here’s a bit of a deep dive question. I’ve got a bad bearing on the drive drum. I’m looking at replacing both and have found info on the bearing type. I’ve been told that that they can be removed/installed without a bearing press. Can you confirm? Also, how do I know the location of the bearings on the shaft? Is there a snap ring or something that shows the correct placement?
I think I would try to get hold of a bearing press if you can. Harbor Freight presses aren't very expensive and can even be found on Craigslist. In fact, if you don't see one listed, post in the Wanted section for one. Yes, there is a shoulder on the shaft.
Hey there Scott, Mike again. I think I found an awesome deal on a sander $50. My next question are there any pieces I need for attaching it to the workstation. I already have a bandsaw on the workstation and the plastic alignment tool between the motor and the bandsaw. Anything else I should be aware of? Thank you again for your help.
What workstation? Shopsmith Mark V? PowerStation? If it is one of these you have what you need of you are able to power the bandsaw. $50 is a great deal!
Is there a chance you could please do a video on servicing the belt sander? The other peoples videos don’t show the assembly process for the top roller on the side opposite the tensioner of the how it goes in correct orientation. Thank you.
@@Michael-Homerepair76 I’ve considered it, but haven’t had the time without more pressing topics pushing ahead of it. If you haven’t discovered Jacob Anderson’s videos yet, seek them out on the meantime. Scott
It's all about surface area. Imagine you made a corbel or bookend or something of that scale. You'd be hard pressed to get anywhere near the same results with a 12" disc and the strip sander would just whimper in the corner. Scott
I just pick up a ew to me 6” belt sander and like you said it came with no tension on the idle drum. I tried to put the Four turns on it and can only get two turn that will hold after that it auto trips the trigger to release the tension
@@kirkschweighofer2966 Ok, then my best guess is either that the end of the tension spring is broken or the part of the button that engages is either broken or crusted with sawdust.
So you mentioned that you liked unidirectional sanding belts but didn’t say why. What brand of belts do find are the best bang for the buck? Thanks for the video despite moving. I feel for you. I *hate* moving. Also please thank your bride for us for being tolerant in putting out the weekly video while her nest is discombobulated by the move. I’m sure she is less than settled right now which is hard on our gals. I know it is for my bride.
Didn’t I? We’ll correct that mid-week and I’ll talk a bit more about abrasives. My bride is the best-ever and we’ll hit 40 years married later this year, or as she tells it, “27 happy years”. Scott
This is raking over old coals and you might not even see it, but here goes anyway. I've got a 1980's belt sander with the crowned driver drum. I've just re-watched your video (again) and you said that there were ways around this but maybe it would be best to just buy a new drum. Unless you live in the UK, in which case you may not be able to get one and even if you did, it would cost an absolute fortune, because you have to buy the whole assembly at maybe 3 times the US price. Nick Engler in his sander video suggested having the drum ground down to straighten it up. Was this what you were thinking of? I've managed to keep the belt on track most of the time but it does tend to go walkabout when I'm not concentrating. I can't see how to get the rubber sleeve off without stretching or destroying it - any suggestions? Replacements for those are not available over here either. Otherwise, the sander is yet another great bit of kit that gives me loads of satisfaction, now that I'm officially a pensioner with loads of spare time, as of today. Now, about that senior citizen free bus pass.....
Hey Graham. If I were in the same boat as you I would either take the drum to a machine shop or if I felt up to doing the work myself I would built up the edges with automotive bodyfiller (We call it "Bondo") which would minimize the amount of aluminum material that will have to be removed. You could then flatten the coated drum with abrasives or even with an angle grinder before installing a new rubber drive sleeve. Those are my thoughts. Scott
Is the tensioner on the Total Shop version supposed to work the same as the Shopsmith one? I picked up a new in box one last year, still have not used it, but the button on the tensioner doesn't pop out in the retracted position, it pops out in the fully extended position. It is the opposite of both of my Shopsmith ones. Assuming it is supposed to work like the Shopsmith ones, I'm assuming something was assembled 180º out of position in the tensioner/roller assembly.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks, I guess I'll take it apart and see what it takes to fix it. It was definitely assembled that way at the factory, as the box it came in still had never been opened, and still had the factory banding around it.
I bought a used sander and I’m having issues keeping tension on the belt. It’s very frustrating. I’m either doing something wrong (likely) or it’s broken but I just can’t make it to work. Definitely regret this purchase
When was your sander made? Did you catch the part about the machines that were made with the crowned drive drums? Also, the part around the 5:50 is critical. Scott
Scott, or anyone else that might know, what years were the drive drum made with crowned? I’m looking at the possibility of buying a used one and I’m not having any luck finding flat parted out drive drums.
@@MyGrowthRings Here is a thought... I don’t claim it’s a great one but... let’s say we have one of the crowned drive drums and it has good rubber on it, could you possibly use spec tape or something similar to help flatten the curve of the drum; say say strip halfway between the center of the drum and the edges? I’m not sure how it would wear but I’m trying to think a little outside the box. I suppose the better way of doing it might be between the rubber and the metal of the drum but I recently replaced the rubber sleeve and that is something I’d rather not do again in this lifetime
What speed do you run yours at, at high speed mine tends to wander just a little, not enough to leave the rollers but about a 3/8 and inch side to side no matter how much I dial it in. It’s perfectly fine at lower and still useable speeds
The manual suggests "E" (1150 RPM, 900 SFPM) to "J" (1900 RPM, 1500 SFPM). I don't really have a favorite speed, but if I had to guess where I tend to run it, it would be around J or even slightingly faster, but don't tell anybody. Scott
I have this sander and the instructions. For the life of me, can't get the the belt to track! Any ideas what I am doing wrong? I have watched your video multiple times trying to figure out this problem. No luck!
It’s likely the hidden adjustment on the said opposite of the tracking wheel. Also, make sure that your lower drive drum is flat. If it is crowned you’ll want to replace it. Scott
How rigid is the cast iron table on the belt sander when installed? The two mounting posts look small and the set screw mounting scheme looks like it might lead to some table flex. Just wondering if the belt sander is good at producing square/90 deg surfaces. Thanks again for the great videos!
@@MyGrowthRings I use my sander quite often and and there is no flex to be found in that table arrangement. Bought my SS sander after burning up a portable belt sander on a project. No problem for the SS.
Hey Jack. I own three of the DC3300 and really like them. I don’t need three, though! They are portable, easy to empty and powerful enough. I don’t own a DC6000 yet…
@@jackwilson1245 Morning,,,watched video, my problem is when I turn machine on the tension knob backs off, I’ve adjusted tension roller to receive belt but it’s tight like you had on your machine ,is it required to have four turn on tension roller? Should we turn tension roller four turn to tighten spring an then back tension roller knob off just enough to slip belt on, please resend form information,looking forward to your reply , I just retired an bought mark 4 from neighbor an its been setting for along time it’s got so many accessories ,having to do research an see what these attachments are use for,I’m excited to get it up on running ,I have Honey DO list already 😅😅😅😅😅
Can the belt sander be run in reverse or does this mess up the tracking system? For example, could you put the table on the back and use the slack sanding area so that the belt drives the work piece down into the table for better control and also carries the dust into the dust collection fitting instead of up into you face?
Shopsmith, well built, extremely poorly designed tools. But the belt sander with it's very solid, multi position table is really good. Put it on it's own base and you'll have a top notch tool. But you couldn't force me to take any of the other tools.
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, I have experience with a Shopsmith. If you have tons of time to kill making small hobby geegews and no experience with real shop tools, you might get by for a while with a Shopsmith but having to re-configure the machine every time you want to do a different step or function is beyond maddening. Plus, while the 6" belt sander on a stand alone base is a hard working tool, the rest of the tools are really small and chintzy. Again, if you're making bird houses or napkin holders as a hobby, a Shopsmith might be ok but you can buy much better individual versions of all Shopsmith's tools and for a lot less money. They probably won't have as rugged of construction as the 6" belt sander does but they will do their job MUCH better.
@@itsmatt2105 I used to work in Architectural Millwork in an industrial shop with every imaginable tool at my disposal and when I needed to do something precisely I used my Shopsmith. Currently I have access at work to a two year old Altendorf sliding saw, a Striebig panel saw and a complete selection of Festool tools, yet you see what I enjoy using at home. Reconfiguring is part of the fun, but then again, so is planning. Most cabinet making projects are done on the tablesaw and jointer, and there’s no reconfiguring required between those two. Anyway, I’m certain that I’m not convincing you, and I hope that you are pleased with the assortment of tools at your disposal. Scott
Hey Scott, my belt sander has a tubular protrusion opposite the power coupler. I believe I’ve seen photos of a drum sander here. How do I access this feature?
That is just a cover, which is wedged in place with a slight taper. Just pull and wiggle and it should come out. You may also need to give it a light tap with a soft mallet to get it to break free if it’s never been removed.
Hey, you won something! Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/YlfPuM5ffH8/v-deo.html then send me your name and address to ScottMarkwood(at)gmail.com and I'll get them on order for you. Scott
I think the tracking mechanism on this belt sand is so ingenious and fascinating. Another thing that always mesmerizes me is how the trunnion rotates perfectly around the drive shaft of the lower drum so that re-alignment with the headstock is not necessary when changing from the vertical to horizontal position. These machines were invented by really smart people. To me that's part of the joy of working with them.
I agree. The trunnion works great as long as it is kept clean and lightly lubricated.
Thanks Scott- this video got my belt sander up and running today.
It is an original Magna, with labeling showing it was made in Menlo Park, CA
I think it used to be green but someone painted it grey at one point.
Happy to help.
I bought a used Shopsmith and it came with the Magna sander. I think this 2 year old video is just what I needed. Thanks Scott
Truly a timely video Scott, Thanks. I just cannot believe how much I forget through the years and how simulating to the old brain, the video presentation is. I still have and even use all of the documentation Shop Smith provided although having an excellent presenter makes the information sink in better.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video ! I use my belt sander for commercial production work. Just cant wear out the fool thing. Works like new ! I use the back side to round corners of 3/4 " square stock. Works perfectly. This is commercial heavy duty equipment. Never over heats. Use it continuously for 2 / 3 hrs at a time.
That’s awesome!
Scott in your follow up any ideas of worth of the drum sander that goes on the shift that sticks out on side opposite of drive hub. Pretty pricey. Maybe just buy set from HF, for use in Jacob's chuck, or on separate drill press. Thanks for video. If I lived closer I would bring truck down and help you move shop. Have a good night
When I was editing I couldn’t believe that I didn’t even mention the versatility of the auxiliary shaft!
I use the Harbor Freight Drum sander set with the 1/2 inch router bit chuck. Perfect piston fit. I like being able to cut my own sandpaper "drums" from 3 inch belts.
@@woodshopnerdery Shopsmith used to sell a set just like it and I like it for the very same reason.
@@MyGrowthRings damnit I was gonna mention this neglect but you all beat me to it!
Glad I ran into your channel Scott!
I've wanted a Shop Smith for almost 50 years and finally purchased one today. It's a 1955 greenie that has almost every attachment and runs great. I'm planning to give it a light restoration and then use the heck out it. Thanks for all your great info!
Congratulations, Arthur and welcome to the Shopsmith family! A ‘55 is an early one and they were built like a tank, so it should serve you well. Scott
I've been really hesitant to pull the trigger on this because of all the tracking issues I've read about. Your explanation answers the problems. I appreciate it.
Glad to hear it. 99% of them are fine. Scott
Thanks Scott! I picked up an old SS belt sander that I’ve never used, your video will kickstart me to set it up finally. I hope your move is not too stressful! My last move a year ago was brutal but woodworking with my SS tools was, and still is, a great comfort.
Thanks for that. You are going to really like it. Scott
I just bought an old SS belt sander as well actually I bought the whole shop. Lol I know it's not everything but it was quite a bit. But the man that I bought it from told me that the upper bearings would probably need to be replaced in that upper pulley.
Hello and thank you for all of your videos! I just picked up a Shopsmith Belt Sander and it appears to be the same model that you have in this video. I ordered an owners manual from Shopsmith, but I believe it is for a newer version that includes a dust port. I assume and hope that is the main difference and I am encouraged by your comments on this sander.
@@bbirdiebirdie That’s all that has ever changed, so you should be good. Well, that and the crowned drive drum that was short lived.
Glad you got to this SPT Scott. It was included in my last purchase in the wild that I drug out of the mountains of NC and I have been waiting to hear your take on how they operate and how to adjust. Looks like a complete teardown is in order for mine. Thanks for your videos on this great piece of equipment. Blessings, Bruce
Thanks Bruce. Yeah, I’m not sure why these get abused. I guess because they just keep working until the issues pile up.
Thank you so much for putting these videos out. I've been looking for current videos that weren't done in the eighties. I've learned more about my shopsmith in just a few of your videos than any others I've watched. Keep it up please, I do so want to become more knowledgeable on this tool that I've had now for over thirty years.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the feedback, Marty, and I'm happy to hear that you are finding them helpful. Scott
I received a non-serious injury on Saturday using the belt sander. It hurt like you know what for several hours but turned out to be just some bruising to my finders. I was wearing gloves so no gore. But, I got lucky.
In short, my fingers got caught between a long heavy work piece and the idler drum when feeding the work piece over the belt in horizontal mode. Basically, I created a pinch point then promptly stuck my fingers in it. To quote Scott, "What a maroon."
There are two other pinch points that I know of, between the belt and table and between the belt and dust collection fitting. I feel compelled to wish everyone safety and good fortune in the workshop.
Ouch! Glad you made it through.
Thanks for educating us.
Superb learning resource for a SHopSmith newbie here in the UK. Love this machine!
Glad you’ve found it useful. Welcome to the Shopsmith family! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you Scott! I'm only a month in, I'm restoring an modernised Mk5 machine and a load of accessories, and I'm already obsessed. A month ago I didn't even know what a ShopSmith was but I have an engineering mind so I learn fast and love tinkering. It is going to be so useful in my workshop given that it does so much! Thanks for the wisdom, your passion for the subject and your channel is right up there! 👍👍👍
@@richardobrien4465 I really is a marvel. Enjoy the journey and let me know if you need anything. Scott
Thank you, Scott! Blessings for your move !
I appreciate that, John.
Yep, I really like the sander. It's fabulous at shaping bows and even performing the rough tillering needed to have uniform bending.
Good info I just took my Magna Belt Sander apart cleaned and lubed it. Workers so much better now. Thanks for all the info. Barrie
Glad to hear it, Barrie!
Early on (way, way before acquiring my Shopsmith), I had rigged a stand for my B&D 3x21 belt sander to (a) clamp to my bench while (b) using it horizontally (c) with a table. Worked great. Then I got the Shopsmith and the 12" disc was the bomb! Until I got the 6x48 a couple of years ago. Now we're cooking with gas! I still have the B&D & the stand. I never know when I might need it.
I suspect that’s the same path a bunch of us have followed.
Great video. I just bought new belts for a sander I haven’t used that much. This will help me get it set up and working properly!
I've always liked how Shopsmith kept the Magna logo casting molds for the longest time before updating them. Which applies to this tool (body casting), the jig saw (gearbox cover), and the jointer (cutter guard) seen on my 1980 SPT's. Shopsmith really knew how to save a buck back then.
Of course so did Magna, the engineering of the 6" belt sander with the spacers between the body castings are left over way and bench tube pieces. You taught me that one, Scott.
Yep, they just didn’t change things for the sale of change.
That said, it was always thrilling to see the beautiful new parts when they updated the castings. I was working there when they made the change to the jigsaw and the belt sander.
This video is super helpful! I had a huge mental block over that cam tensioner... until 10 minutes ago. My idler drum is also quite a bit stiff. I remember a sawdust session video where he takes it apart. That'll be next...
Saved the day with this video! Thanks Scott
You save me with every UA-cam you publish 😊
Another great demonstration, Scott! Thanks so much. My belt sander is definitely under utilized. I need to get it out and use it more than I do. You inspire me to get in the shop more.
Thanks Bill. That's my goal. Scott
Okay I am here to study up scott. I just purchased one online for $100 from a guy plus $34 shipping. I think we was talking in one of your comments. I know it was a shopsmith video I said I need one he said I have two. Lol Sending him money Fri
That’s a great value. You’ll enjoy it.
Yes, another informative video.
I'm so glad I found you on UA-cam
That’s so nice to hear. Thanks Dale. Scott
Great video on the 6 inch belt sander! Now all I have to do is find one…
Thanks and good luck with that. Scott
An excellent video.
Thank you for giving us the time. As ever, the history and function is most interesting.
Always my pleasure, John. Scott
Great as usual I learn something each video sometimes I’m actually finding out how ignorant I am about my most prized possession. Thanks scott
Well, not anymore! Scott
My shopsmith belt sander loses tension constantly when it's running. To the point that it's not even useable. I've tried retensioning it as per the manual, but no dice. Any advice Scott?
You may need to replace the tension spring. It’s not difficult to do but you’ll want to take your time.
just 'joined' Scott. appreciate you... very helpful info
Robert, you Rock!
Great into!!! Didn't know about the bolt that can be loosened in the tensioning process. I've always had to fight to change belts so I tend to over wear them out. Also will need to clean and ways the adjustment. Thanks
It looks like that’s what this guy did with this sander. It looks like it has never been adjusted.
thank you so much for this one! I have not been doing the tensioning correctly and now need to go out in the garage and follow your example.
My pleasure. Jim, it’ll be like a new tool. Scott
I apologize in advance for making too many comments on this one. As consolation, I hope the extra comments boost this video with the UA-cam Algorithm.
Regarding the extra trunnion bolt, which I am also missing, here are two excerpts from my Belt Sander manual. Page 4 - "Remove the extra bolt at the back of the belt sander, below the shaft. (Keep this bolt for later use.)" Page 17 - "However, avoid setting the belt sander at an angle in between. The base casting is designed so that it can brace the sander when it's in a horizontal or vertical position. If you use the belt sander at an odd angle, use the extra bolt for additional support."
It never occurred to me to use this at any angle other than vertical and horizontal.
Yep. It can be handy if you are sanding an angle because you can position the sander so that the table is level.
Whats the size of that bolt? I will read the rest of the comments and probably find the answer…
Thank you so much for all your videos. They have been a lifesaver. I purchased some used Shopsmith accessories in an estate sale and have had some difficulty restoring them. Your videos are extremely helpful. Please keep em coming. I am revitalizing my belt sander. You mentioned something about changing out the rubber sleeve on the drive drum. Please upload any info you can. Thanks again.
Keith, I’m glad they have been helpful. Scott
Just picked up a Belt sander and may need to replace both drums. Be VERY helpful to see you break one down! Great videos!
If you haven’t seen it, I suggest watching this video: ua-cam.com/video/91bRVOMEDFg/v-deo.html
@@MyGrowthRings I have watch that one, however, I like your approach better and the video quality is not that great from that time era.
Thanks fo the belt sander video. I just bought a used 510 and got a belt sander, jointer and dust collector with it. I liked the demonstration. I think I’m also missing the bolt….
I appreciate that. That bolt is a 3/8"-16 x 2" hex head cap screw. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings i knew the info would be here!
SS is my fav. belt sand.er, far better than my Porter-Cable. Mine is a 1984 Model. I bought my SS from a friend 6 yrs ago, his wife bought it for him in 84 for his BD and he had never unboxed it. So basically I have a brand new 84 mod. w/ all the accessories.. Good Luck on your House moving Scott
Wow, that's great. Do you still have the 1 1/4" dust port or have you upgraded to the 2 1/2"? I need to upgrade this one before I put it to some real use. Scott
Scott, I need a deadhead sander for Guitar necks. The working area needs to be 12 to 14 inches long to fit between the contours on the neck. This platform looks great but would be too long. So, I guess I will be designing and building one for my Total Turd!! Dropping the full 4 K version Thickness Sander build today!!
I just picked one up, thanks for the pointers 👍
Nice! You are welcome.
You forgot to mention the out put shaft that can run a drum or disk and if you have the flex tool the drill chuck. I plan on putting mine on my powerstation and I am going to try to mount a table with the disk and I have a couple shopsmith tubes and carriage I am thinking about mounting them so I can use my 500 main table with the disk sander on the back side of the power station. To be determined, Lol. But I want to build a sanding station. Alongside my 2 x72. Now that's what Shopsmith should make next. Besides knife making I do not think a day goes by in my shop My 2x 72 does not come on. mine is homemade but I love it all the same. Talk about a belt staying cool. 72" they do not load up. I am still collecting a little at a time.
Yes, in this video I did, but I did cover it in the follow up video which is now private for channel members. It’s not something that I rely on often, but it is handy at times.
Well in the past year I forgot about the tensioning bolt. Scott reminded me of this video. In the past year I forgot the very thing I made a comment on. Hopefully it’s not Alzheimer’s 😂. 😊 just builds the case for being a channel member.
Not to worry, Dave. We all leak!
Worked on it today. It’s working perfectly now. 😊
@@daveschmitt6369 That’s great, Dave! Glad you stuck with it!
The location of that locking bolt that’s often missing please.... thanks for video during move... wishing you both well
There are two holes that pass through the the base at the trunnion. The bolt should be in one or the other of those holes. Scott
I also add a drum sander on the output shaft opposite the drive coupler. Some are hidden with the cone cover that protects people from the shaft turning. If you use the 6” drum, with the new 2” sand paper, you can have a drum with 3 different grits to finish up any inside curves. I made a shorty with strip sander on the left and belt/drum combo on the right. Handles most application for sanding in one small location, I’ll post a picture on your FB link to this video if you want.
Yes, please do. In the middle of editing this, I realized that I forgot to mention running accessories on that shaft, so I'll be sure to mention it in the follow-up. Scott
Scott, thank your wife for allowing you to make time for us! We know your up to your ears in alligators right now! You da man, and she’s da woman!
I'll let her know you thanked her because she was a little annoyed by me tonight! Scott
I rebuilt my sander and had my drive wheel turn down flat. Unbelievable how much easier it is to track now. Just wish the side rails were in better shape.
We’re they damaged forme the belt drifting from side to side?
@@MyGrowthRings yes. I see a lot of the used older sanders damaged like that.
At least your not living in a van... down by the river!
#Truth!
OMG. “A van down by the river.” One of the best SNL’s ever!
Two pop culture quotes I had not heard in years. In the video Scott said "What a maroon" from Looney Tunes and here "... down by the river" from SNL. You guys are on a roll.
@@woodshopnerdery
It’s like, “Deja vu all over again”!
Love my SS belt sander. I’m thinking of buying a second 500 just to convert to a shorty to hold my bandsaw and belt sander or jointer full time so they’ll be ready for use rather than moving the from storage to SS when I need them.
Maybe that’s a future video for you Scott, creating a SS shorty - ideal tube length, pitfalls, etc….
Love the channel.
Oh, that would really put me face to face with one of my hang-ups! I don't like the idea of cutting down a Mark V and would rather build a stand that holds and powers SPTs, but I get that the form factor is ideal and that you could always just add a new set of full-size tubes to bring it back to full-function. I know these things but I still have issues! Thanks for the suggestion and perhaps I'll tackle my issues one of these days. Scott
I turned my spare 510 into a dedicated sanding station, with a 12” disk, a 6” belt, and a 2” drum sander, and it works great.
@@stewwolfe1 Now that’s a smart combo.
yep watching your videos, just dragged my Shop Smith out of shed, my late father bought me few years ago, mice had made home in the boxes so I have a little clean up to do, but I have no manual on set up procedures, or what can be left on the stand what has to be removed. ? so your videos very helping me figure out what goes where. i was told the previous owner made table legs with it. So want to set up mine to use band saw, and make bowls. any suggestions. i am open.
Welcome to the Shopsmith family! I highly recommend that you head over to eBay and purchase an owners manual and a copy of the book “Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone“. Ideally your want to purchase those from the same era that your machine was built, but it’s not entirely critical.
That was a good video thank you very much. I just bought a shopsmith that came with the belt sander. Told me I would need to rebuild the upper Pulley. I haven't picked it up yet I'm supposed to pick it up this week. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
That’s a great sander! I believe that you can find a complete rebuild video by typing Shopsmith belt sander rebuild in the search box. I know that Nick Engler did one as did Jacob Anderson. Scott
Do you know Doug Reed? He worked for Shopsmith and has done videos on different ways to use the main unit and the attachments.
Yes, I know Doug.
Thanks Scott, that was a great review. I've used my sander many many times and love it. I don't have many tracking issues; I always seem to be able to get it working. I didn't know about adjusting the screws underneath the roller. That's great information. Can you go into a bit more detail about which is the right direction to put the sanding belt on if there are no directional arrows?
Hey Anne. Yes, I sure will. I guess I was in a rush and forgot to cover that. Scott
By the way... Tracking is a breeze. Varey easy ! Easiest system I've ever seen.
I totally agree.
I hope I am not too late to make the mid-week Q&A. My belt sander is one of the most used spts in my Shopsmith collection. I should also add that I am in Western Canada where SS can be hard to find. My son picked up a well used belt sander a few years ago that has some deep grooves cut into the back side of the side castings by the belt tracking too far off the platen. Do you have a recommendation on what to fill the grooves with?
Also, can the 6x48 belt sander be run in reverse to sharpen tools?
The STUMPED video is currently uploading, so yes, you missed it, but in it, I sort of answer your question around running in reverse. As for filling the grooves, your best bet is to used Bonodo and any brand of auto body filler, then touch it up with spray paint from Shopsmith. They seem to have a proprietary color and their paint will match it perfectly. You may be able to get that paint from All-In-One Wood Tools in Oakville. Scott
Thanks for another great, helpful video !! I've been chomping at the bit to get my hands on one of these ... now, even more !! Best of luck with the move to your new home !! I hope it goes as smoothly as we all WISH it would ....LOL !! If you were closer I'd be happy to lend a hand. Take care and best wishes !!
Thanks for that encouragement and you’ll love this sander. Scott
Just received a replacement drive sleeve from Shopsmith for my belt sander. They sent me a piece of a motorcycle innertube, for $21.39.
Is that what it is? How can you tell?
@@MyGrowthRings Well if you ever changed a innertube on a bicycle you will recognize it eminently. Evidently the original sleeve is not available or cost Shopsmith too much to have produced, so the went to a innertube. On top of that I just received verbal instructions on how to install the sleeve. Slide the sleeve on, roll sleeve half way back like a sock coat the rubber and drive cylinder with rubber contact cement, then roll sleeve back. Repeat on other half. The sleeve is already to big, slid it on by hand no problem. Once you roll it back long enough to apply rubber cement the tube should be all stretched out of shape. This installation has disaster written all over it.
@@MyGrowthRings Still need to talk with you about the belt sander.
@@merlin750 Actually, that's exactly how it's done, and it works quite well.
@@MyGrowthRings The belt sander that I purchased for $10.00 needs totally rebuilt. Both idler and drive drums are crowned. Everything needs cleaned and reassembled and adjusted. How difficult will it be to get the belt to track with both drums crowned? Originally both drums were full of shredded sanding belt and bound up was the reason for the total rebuild.
I’ve been looking for one of those. It’s the next Shopsmith attachment on my list!
I’m gonna bookmark this so I can go through it once I find one. Thanks Scott... great job covering capabilities, quirks and fixes.
Awesome. You’ll love it. Scott
i'm not sure but i caught a glimpse od what appeared to be an directional arrow when you held the belt a certain way
When there's a directional arrow I pay attention to it because that usually means there's a lap joint that will fail if it is used the wrong way.
Scott -- really good videos. Have a quick question about the back up plate (PN 502963; Model 640) for my 6" belt sander purchased in 1980. I recently was sanding sides on a jewelry box and noted that the back up plate is not totally flat -- perhaps up to 1/64" off between the mounting screws. Is this just because the sander has been used so much, or is the back up plate designed that way. Plan to purchase a new back up plate, but wanted your opinion first. Thanks
No, that is not by design. There may be a way to flatten it, but it might make more sense to just replace it.
When reassembling the belt sander does it matter which way you put in the drive drum? I don’t see a different in the sides and I’m not sure which was originally the side facing the headstock and which was the auxiliary spindle.
If I recall correctly it is unhanded.
Can you hone the blades with a hard stone and not remove them?
You can try. There’s a method described in the “Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone” book that works.
I want to see you mount it to the saw.
Which saw?
Yours doesn't have the little drum attachment for finer concave sanding.
The shaft that is on the side furthest from the headstock is a 5/8" shaft and will hold any of the accessories that fit on the quill, including a drum sander, a chuck with small drums, a flap wheel, a sanding disc, you name it. I just forgot to show it but will later this week. Scott
Just bought a Shopsmith belt sander for $10.00. Yes, it does need overhaled. It is missing the complete table assembly. Hopefully you have an idea on where to get one. The person I purchased has hundreds of Shopsmith parts and is selling everything for next to nothing. I have a band saw that I bought for $35.00 and would like to trade it to someone for a belt sander table. It is missing the mounting pins and needs cleaned up, new tires and has a cast iron table.
I happen to have an early model belt sander in pieces on my bench. Cleanup is going well enough, but the bearings on the drive drum don't seem very smooth. If you have any tips on checking the bearings and recommendations on how to replace them I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the video... Moving sucks, hope it goes smoothly.
No real words of wisdom besides trust your instincts. It they feel rough they probably need to go. Even a cheap Harbor Freight bearing puller is your friend at this point. Scott
I got my shopsmith mark 5 and 6" belt sander in the late 1970th. I need to replace the bevel robber drive drum if you could do a video or that would help me.
Hey Tom. Yes, I've had that request before and actually have sander that needs a new sleeve and I even have the sleeve! Just need the time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks will be looking for it. I hope soon.
Is it worth picking one of these up if the table is missing asking $100. How hard to find/expensive is it to replace the table. Or build a diy table solution.
Jeremy, Shopsmith still makes them and there are also people who part them out on eBay. I purchased one without a table because it was a deal and there are some operations that can be done without the table. Is it work $100? That’s up to you. Scott
Curious as to best range of speeds as a function of sandpaper grit?
That’s wide open to the user, but the manual gives a couple ranges basked upon grit and what you are sanding. You can also get some of that information from the sand paper supplier, but that will usually be shared in FPM, which you’ll then have to convert to RPMs.
I have an old 10er model, will the belt sander attachment fit onto the early units?
It can, as long as your marching has the appropriate add-on bracket to hold them. Magna offered this part and a kit to allow the use of the coupler to drive the SPT’s and some owners made their own from metal or wood. I would encourage you to check out the 10 of your owners group on Facebook or to search for Shopsmith Forums, because several people have shared this over the years. Scott
Scott,
Took your advice and bought a sander. A few questions:
1. How do I reset the tension knob on the idler drum to know where “zero” is before the 4 turns?
2. I am assuming this just tightens the internal spring as every time I turn it, the drum goes back to the same position. Is his correct?
3. When I get the tracking right with no load, when I start to sand, the belt moves away from the headstock. When it gets a bit over, I pull the wood away and the belt returns to the center. Is this right?
Hey James. The starting point is after you hit the release button and allow the spring to release all of its tension. If pressing the release button does not cause the knob to spin you would be at zero. Yes, it is an internal spring that you are tensioning in the drum itself should spin free. If the belt is moving substantially under load, you either need to raise the left side tracking nut, or check to make sure that the bottom drive drum is not crowned. Good luck as you get this dialed in. Scott
Lots of adjusting and taking belt off and on, but I think I’ve got it now. Drive drum is flat. Thanks for your video and subsequent help.
@@jamesbrunk9817 Excellent! I knew you had this. Scott
Scott, As you talk about in your video I bought my Shopsmith and sander used and had no tension on the idler arm. However mine does not rotate as you demonstrate. Would you demonstrate repair of the tensioning mechanism or point me to videos where I can see this. I have been unable to get a manual from Shopsmith for this accessory. I'm frustrated as this is one of my most used tools (or was). I'm a subscriber and love your channel. Thanks for all the great videos. I need them bad!
Hey Frank, Yes, what you are experiencing is not uncommon with a tool that is sat idle for a while. The upper drama runs on greased bushings and the grease will become solid as a rock over time if not used or maintained. I will cover this but it will be a while before I will be able to do to our relocation. I’ll put it high on the list though. Scott
In the meantime, you’re not going to break anything if you shoot a little WS40 on the bushing inside the drum and begin to rock it back-and-forth. Also, a little bit of heat from a heat gun or a hairdryer applied to the opened ends won’t hurt either. If you can get it to loosen-up, throw a belt on it and let it run for 20 minutes to loosen things up. That will get you going for now.
@@MyGrowthRings Scott I looked closely at the picture of the idler roller you showed and the tensioning system. I have a roll pin that blocks rotation of the shaft on that end. It looks identical to the roll pin on the opposite end of the roller. The picture you show in the video doesn't show the pin protruding on the adjustment end. Could someone replacing the spring not installed this correctly?
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, Great news! I was correct about the roll pin. I ground it down so it no longer catches on the aluminum guide. The tensioning system is working correctly. Thank you so much for your video. That picture was worth a thousand words!
@@frankfowler8295 Glad to hear it and sorry that I’ve been unavailable all day.
Can you tell us about the apron you are wearing?
Sure. I mention in the video description that "I searched for quite a while to find a comfortable apron and have been really happy with this one: amzn.to/2IRhONZ And yes, Amazon did use a photo of me in the apron!" I used to have a denim Shopsmith apron that I liked for short sessions, but after a couple of hours, it really started cutting into my neck, especially on a hot, NC day. So I went on a search for one that only rests on my shoulders. It's a little bit of a challenge to put on, but once it's on I really like it. Scott
May the 4th be with you! (I say as the credits roll)
And with you.
And the eyes roll too🤪
Thank😂
Scott - Question about using the belt sander on a Power Stand (not a Power Station, and not a Crafter Station). It seems that the machine won't come up to operating speed UNLESS the pulley guard has been removed. Apparently, the slack in the pulley belt allows the belt to contact the guard and the motor spins, but the sanding belt won't move.
The pulleys on this are: the dual 2", 3" pulley on the motor (1/2 HP motor) and the 3" on the tool.
Given your many years of experience, what suggestions do you have for me about this? Thanks in advance.
Are you running a rubber belt? My preference is to replace them with a link belt, which will not only drive the sander with less vibration, but it will make the turn around the 2” pulley easier and they tend to have better traction (less slippage). Either way, check your tension and just know that too much tension is almost as bad as too little. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Okay. Yes, rubber belt.
How does one check tension? Mine is really slack. And I am not using the 2" side of the pulley. Not really sure if I should.
So the link belt is the one that can be shortened/lengthened? Usually a red color?
Would those fixed length belts that look like they are for a cogged gear might do a better job?
@@billrogers6863 There's an instruction sheet floating around on the Shopsmith Forums on the Shopsmith Owners Facebook group that covers all the STP stands, but basically you should be able to pinch the two sides of the belt at the center point between the top and bottom pulley and they shouldn't get closer than 1" apart. Scott
Thanks that helps a lot. Where do I find the rubber sleeve for the drive roller?
Shopsmith offers them on their website at www.shopsmith.com/service/beltsander/blt_parts_list.htm It’s listed as “62 502932 Belt Sander Driver Sleeve Drive Sleeve”
Scott, just curious as to what my ShopSmith system would be worth? I have the Mark V 500 I purchased in I think 1983 give or take here’s what I have and everything is in perfect shape, no rust totally up and running. I have the Mark V 500, Belt sander, strip sander, Jointer, bandsaw, jig saw, scroll saw, Planner w/ extra knives, plus all original items that came with it, lethe duplicator, mortising attachment, shaper attachment, many accessories such as shaper knives, live centers, original lethe chisels, jig saw, band saw, scroll saw blades and files, saw blades, feather boards, chicks, face plates, Hmmm other stuff can’t think of all of it so like I said everything perfect condition what would you think the whole enchilada is worth? Best guess is fine
Michael, I can’t even venture a guess because it just depends on too many factors. I wrote a blog post about selling Shopsmith tools that might be of help. The good news is we are entering the best time of the year for selling tools! shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2009/08/tips-and-techniques-for-selling-your.html?m=1
Here’s a bit of a deep dive question. I’ve got a bad bearing on the drive drum. I’m looking at replacing both and have found info on the bearing type. I’ve been told that that they can be removed/installed without a bearing press. Can you confirm? Also, how do I know the location of the bearings on the shaft? Is there a snap ring or something that shows the correct placement?
I think I would try to get hold of a bearing press if you can. Harbor Freight presses aren't very expensive and can even be found on Craigslist. In fact, if you don't see one listed, post in the Wanted section for one. Yes, there is a shoulder on the shaft.
Hey there Scott, Mike again. I think I found an awesome deal on a sander $50. My next question are there any pieces I need for attaching it to the workstation. I already have a bandsaw on the workstation and the plastic alignment tool between the motor and the bandsaw. Anything else I should be aware of? Thank you again for your help.
What workstation? Shopsmith Mark V? PowerStation? If it is one of these you have what you need of you are able to power the bandsaw. $50 is a great deal!
Is there a chance you could please do a video on servicing the belt sander? The other peoples videos don’t show the assembly process for the top roller on the side opposite the tensioner of the how it goes in correct orientation. Thank you.
@@Michael-Homerepair76 I’ve considered it, but haven’t had the time without more pressing topics pushing ahead of it. If you haven’t discovered Jacob Anderson’s videos yet, seek them out on the meantime. Scott
Scott, i have all the other sanding attachments with the exception of the belt sander. What would be the reason for adding the belt sander?
It's all about surface area. Imagine you made a corbel or bookend or something of that scale. You'd be hard pressed to get anywhere near the same results with a 12" disc and the strip sander would just whimper in the corner. Scott
I just pick up a ew to me 6” belt sander and like you said it came with no tension on the idle drum. I tried to put the Four turns on it and can only get two turn that will hold after that it auto trips the trigger to release the tension
Any chance you are winding it backwards?
@@MyGrowthRings I’m turning it in the direction of the arrow
@@kirkschweighofer2966 Ok, then my best guess is either that the end of the tension spring is broken or the part of the button that engages is either broken or crusted with sawdust.
@@MyGrowthRings Turning it backwards? No one ever does this! ... /scampers off and hides
@@gatheringsplinters4800 Believe it or not I've seen it done. Even seen videos of it being done...
So you mentioned that you liked unidirectional sanding belts but didn’t say why.
What brand of belts do find are the best bang for the buck?
Thanks for the video despite moving. I feel for you. I *hate* moving.
Also please thank your bride for us for being tolerant in putting out the weekly video while her nest is discombobulated by the move. I’m sure she is less than settled right now which is hard on our gals. I know it is for my bride.
Didn’t I? We’ll correct that mid-week and I’ll talk a bit more about abrasives. My bride is the best-ever and we’ll hit 40 years married later this year, or as she tells it, “27 happy years”. Scott
27 happy. I’m going on 36. Hasn’t always been easy but it has been worth it. 👍
@@billmclaughlin8438 That's great. Congratulations.
This is raking over old coals and you might not even see it, but here goes anyway. I've got a 1980's belt sander with the crowned driver drum. I've just re-watched your video (again) and you said that there were ways around this but maybe it would be best to just buy a new drum. Unless you live in the UK, in which case you may not be able to get one and even if you did, it would cost an absolute fortune, because you have to buy the whole assembly at maybe 3 times the US price.
Nick Engler in his sander video suggested having the drum ground down to straighten it up. Was this what you were thinking of? I've managed to keep the belt on track most of the time but it does tend to go walkabout when I'm not concentrating. I can't see how to get the rubber sleeve off without stretching or destroying it - any suggestions? Replacements for those are not available over here either.
Otherwise, the sander is yet another great bit of kit that gives me loads of satisfaction, now that I'm officially a pensioner with loads of spare time, as of today. Now, about that senior citizen free bus pass.....
Hey Graham. If I were in the same boat as you I would either take the drum to a machine shop or if I felt up to doing the work myself I would built up the edges with automotive bodyfiller (We call it "Bondo") which would minimize the amount of aluminum material that will have to be removed. You could then flatten the coated drum with abrasives or even with an angle grinder before installing a new rubber drive sleeve. Those are my thoughts. Scott
Is the tensioner on the Total Shop version supposed to work the same as the Shopsmith one?
I picked up a new in box one last year, still have not used it, but the button on the tensioner doesn't pop out in the retracted position, it pops out in the fully extended position.
It is the opposite of both of my Shopsmith ones.
Assuming it is supposed to work like the Shopsmith ones, I'm assuming something was assembled 180º out of position in the tensioner/roller assembly.
That’s odd and that’s not the way my TS sander works.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks, I guess I'll take it apart and see what it takes to fix it.
It was definitely assembled that way at the factory, as the box it came in still had never been opened, and still had the factory banding around it.
@@markbeiser Weird. Let me know what you learn. Scott
I bought a used sander and I’m having issues keeping tension on the belt. It’s very frustrating. I’m either doing something wrong (likely) or it’s broken but I just can’t make it to work. Definitely regret this purchase
When was your sander made? Did you catch the part about the machines that were made with the crowned drive drums? Also, the part around the 5:50 is critical. Scott
Scott, or anyone else that might know, what years were the drive drum made with crowned? I’m looking at the possibility of buying a used one and I’m not having any luck finding flat parted out drive drums.
I'm not sure, but I recall they were an issue around the time I started working for Shopsmith, which was in 1987.
@@MyGrowthRings Here is a thought... I don’t claim it’s a great one but... let’s say we have one of the crowned drive drums and it has good rubber on it, could you possibly use spec tape or something similar to help flatten the curve of the drum; say say strip halfway between the center of the drum and the edges? I’m not sure how it would wear but I’m trying to think a little outside the box. I suppose the better way of doing it might be between the rubber and the metal of the drum but I recently replaced the rubber sleeve and that is something I’d rather not do again in this lifetime
Yes, I think that could be done and it's worth a shot.
What speed do you run yours at, at high speed mine tends to wander just a little, not enough to leave the rollers but about a 3/8 and inch side to side no matter how much I dial it in. It’s perfectly fine at lower and still useable speeds
The manual suggests "E" (1150 RPM, 900 SFPM) to "J" (1900 RPM, 1500 SFPM). I don't really have a favorite speed, but if I had to guess where I tend to run it, it would be around J or even slightingly faster, but don't tell anybody. Scott
I have this sander and the instructions. For the life of me, can't get the the belt to track! Any ideas what I am doing wrong? I have watched your video multiple times trying to figure out this problem. No luck!
It’s likely the hidden adjustment on the said opposite of the tracking wheel. Also, make sure that your lower drive drum is flat. If it is crowned you’ll want to replace it. Scott
@MyGrowthRings Thank you, Scott! I will double-check that when I get back home.
The info is hidden in the manual, but it’s there.
Any chance you know of where I can get a Shop Smith sander for my power station? Thank you!
Have you checked Shopsmith? Facebook Marketplace? Craigslist? eBay? The Facebook Shopsmith Sales group?
How rigid is the cast iron table on the belt sander when installed? The two mounting posts look small and the set screw mounting scheme looks like it might lead to some table flex. Just wondering if the belt sander is good at producing square/90 deg surfaces. Thanks again for the great videos!
It’s actually quite rigid. That has always been one feature that never let me down.
@@MyGrowthRings I use my sander quite often and and there is no flex to be found in that table arrangement. Bought my SS sander after burning up a portable belt sander on a project. No problem for the SS.
@@dwightl5863 Thanks for the confirmation. Scott
Scott,
What is your opinion of the Shopsmith dust collector?
Thanks.
Jack
Hey Jack. I own three of the DC3300 and really like them. I don’t need three, though! They are portable, easy to empty and powerful enough. I don’t own a DC6000 yet…
@@MyGrowthRings
Scott,
Thanks for the reply. Might be a good topic for a video.
Jack
@@jackwilson1245 For sure, it’s planned.
@@jackwilson1245 Morning,,,watched video, my problem is when I turn machine on the tension knob backs off, I’ve adjusted tension roller to receive belt but it’s tight like you had on your machine ,is it required to have four turn on tension roller? Should we turn tension roller four turn to tighten spring an then back tension roller knob off just enough to slip belt on, please resend form information,looking forward to your reply , I just retired an bought mark 4 from neighbor an its been setting for along time it’s got so many accessories ,having to do research an see what these attachments are use for,I’m excited to get it up on running ,I have Honey DO list already 😅😅😅😅😅
@@clyderanger Confused, are you sure you directed you question to the correct person.
How do you loosen the tension on the knob? Mine seems stuck down..
Is the belt on or off? You should be able to simply rotate it. If not, you may need to remove the knob. Let me find you a video…
Grady, check around the ten minute mark on this video: ua-cam.com/video/91bRVOMEDFg/v-deo.html. Scott
Can the belt sander be run in reverse or does this mess up the tracking system? For example, could you put the table on the back and use the slack sanding area so that the belt drives the work piece down into the table for better control and also carries the dust into the dust collection fitting instead of up into you face?
I believe it cannot for that very reason.
Shopsmith, well built, extremely poorly designed tools. But the belt sander with it's very solid, multi position table is really good. Put it on it's own base and you'll have a top notch tool. But you couldn't force me to take any of the other tools.
Matt, clearly, we have a difference of opinion, but I’m assuming yours is based on experience with the tools?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, I have experience with a Shopsmith. If you have tons of time to kill making small hobby geegews and no experience with real shop tools, you might get by for a while with a Shopsmith but having to re-configure the machine every time you want to do a different step or function is beyond maddening. Plus, while the 6" belt sander on a stand alone base is a hard working tool, the rest of the tools are really small and chintzy. Again, if you're making bird houses or napkin holders as a hobby, a Shopsmith might be ok but you can buy much better individual versions of all Shopsmith's tools and for a lot less money. They probably won't have as rugged of construction as the 6" belt sander does but they will do their job MUCH better.
@@itsmatt2105 I used to work in Architectural Millwork in an industrial shop with every imaginable tool at my disposal and when I needed to do something precisely I used my Shopsmith. Currently I have access at work to a two year old Altendorf sliding saw, a Striebig panel saw and a complete selection of Festool tools, yet you see what I enjoy using at home. Reconfiguring is part of the fun, but then again, so is planning. Most cabinet making projects are done on the tablesaw and jointer, and there’s no reconfiguring required between those two. Anyway, I’m certain that I’m not convincing you, and I hope that you are pleased with the assortment of tools at your disposal. Scott
Hey Scott, my belt sander has a tubular protrusion opposite the power coupler. I believe I’ve seen photos of a drum sander here. How do I access this feature?
That is just a cover, which is wedged in place with a slight taper. Just pull and wiggle and it should come out. You may also need to give it a light tap with a soft mallet to get it to break free if it’s never been removed.
Thanks Scott? I did exactly as you pointed out. Now my sanding setup is complete 👍
Thanks again, Scott! Yet another super helpful video…it’s like Sawdust Sessions lives again!
That's high praise. Thanks, Scott
Hey, you won something! Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/YlfPuM5ffH8/v-deo.html then send me your name and address to ScottMarkwood(at)gmail.com and I'll get them on order for you. Scott