Thanks for the video! Just got myself a 90's 510 along with a bunch of accessories for just over $300. Thing looks great and well taken care of but still want to service it before I start making use of it. Cant wait to learn to use it well and hopefully use it in some of my own content!
A ton of great advice and tips here, thank you. I'd like to mention, that sealed bearings can be serviced, the seal pops off and on easily, and it's worthwhile to do. Only put a little bit of grease in them though, rule of thumb is 25% full of grease. Hopefully this is useful to someone.
Hey Scott! This is Steve. I won 2nd place in a corncob pipe contest a couple of years back on your cobfoolery contest. The churchwarden with the helical balsa filter and the cob insert into a banksia pod. Came to youtube looking for a vid about the speed adjustment set up on a shopsmith and found this video. What are the odds? Thanks for posting this. It showed me how the lever and dial went back together, and the oil points. Works great again. Hope all is well with you during this odd time. Thanks again!
The best approach is to leave the headstock in the tubes and in the drill press position move the main table to the back by installing it backward in the carriage. From there you can drop the motor pan and access the entire headstock cavity from the bottom. If I have time I'll demonstrate this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
Great tip to use the table to raise the way tubes enough to slide the headstock off. I've used something like a 2x8 offcut randomly stuffed on edge under the tubes and pried the headstock off, praying that the offcut wouldn't suddenly fall over and bring everything crashing down!
This was worth watching just for the "trick" to more easily removing the headstock. Now I have no excuse for not re-removing mine and reinstalling the rubber buffer ring I forgot to put on the way tube!
I just bought a house where the seller threw in their Mark V with the deal. Thank you so much for all of the content on maintaining them. I can’t wait to get mine properly maintained.
I have a 1985 Mark 5 10 I bought new. Rebuilt a huge bay window out of cypress on our riverfront home. Since that time the machine has not worked a lot, but in storage in coastal environments (I.e. salt air!). Moved machine to Charleston 2005, and kept in garage. Tried to use but noticed belt was slipping. Got new belt from SS watched your vid. Got old belt off, but bottom Sheave was was frozen closed! Pried and banged to no avail, break free heavily applied. Purchased 6” pulley puller, sheave wouldn’t budge. Finally applied direct heat with Plumber’s torch, very carefully and prayerfully, while cranking down on the puller. Sheave moved and compressed spring, poured oil on shaft, worked back and forth, until movement was free and snappy. Machine runs like a champ with new belt and oiled sheaves. Thanks for a great vid!
Wow, what an ordeal! The motor shaft is stainless steel, so it's likely that either the sheave got corroded or that at some point in the past it got sprayed with WD40. Glad to hear you got it worked out. Scott
I just can’t get over these videos! Thanks Mark as I’m pulling off headstock right now to lubricate. Hopefully will fix my problem I emailed you about. Just a side note….I noticed your annoyance with bent quill lever. It happens to the best of us….I’m the king of screwups😂😂.
Wasn't sure on which of your videos to leave this comment. But this one will work. I am getting ready to do clean up and overhaul of my 1954 Greenie. I bought this machine from a neighbor nearly 30 years ago. I recently gotten a couple of Shopsmith bandsaws, which are very nice to have. My drill quill is stuck and I will probably have a great adventure of getting parts and rebuilding. The Serial Number on my machine is VERY early - # 263557. And except for the new belt I installed around 1994 I don't think anything inside has ever been replaced. When I replaced that belt I cleared out about 2 gallons of sawdust from inside the housing. Thanks for such great information on these machines.
Scott, I learn something from every video. Locking the wedges is such a great hint. I always have had trouble with them in the past. Now I hope to remember your hint.
Glad to help. Yeah, I couldn't believe I missed that. Between that and dropping the headstock, I wasn't having my best day. Thankfully the jointer was on the floor to break its fall. Scott
@@BunkyC36 Not really, but if you aren’t expecting it, having to mess around with that while you are holding 65lbs in the air and 3/4” into the way tubes isn’t ideal timing!
@@MyGrowthRings Garry not Linda. ( I have to get my own email someday.) I also had my headstock rebuilt by Alex, mentioned above, a couple of years ago. I caught a trick that I think he used to get the locks back in the correct position. There is a marker dot on the casting and another on the end of the locks on both sides. If the locks aren't messed with during maintenance or repairs, check that the marks are lined up before sliding the headstock on and all should be good.
@@MyGrowthRings It is Scott. I had the headstock refurbished and new motor installed by a retired NASA engineer named Alex from out west...it was worth it! I use my Shopsmith constantly.
@@MyGrowthRings Trust me (lol), I've torn my Shopsmith down numerous times to change belts and clean out the dust, but I don't own a proper bearing puller; being cast aluminum I didn't want to chance busting out the casting. I also broke my original switch, so I've rigged more than one good switch too. Thanks for your informative videos, they are priceless to a guy like me.
@@looper9264 Garry not Linda. Ya, I had my 500 redone by Alex also. Mine was in terrible shape. It was so bad I could stop the shaft with my hand. He did an excellent job and turnaround time was fairly good. He was held up waiting for parts from Shopsmith. Shipping to and from New Mexico costed nearly as much as the rebuild but yes, it was definitely worth it.
This was a great teaching video!! ... alas, no-one will see my comment and well-deserved praise ... take note, you haven't had a more popular video since this one! I followed every step to get my barn-recovery Mark V up to the so-called 25hr maintenance mark, including freeing up the speed control dial and rack and pinion control, overcoming exactly the same issue you confronted on the motor pulley spring and (using your Oakville reference!) changing out the main belt which was rigid in an oval shape, although happily not too worn, suggesting low mileage on the machine ... but in the video you suggested a follow-on video on other maintenance and stated that there were two other belts deserving attention (does the drill press quill and upper rear take-off spin constantly in lathe use or is there some sort of clutch?) ... anyway, perhaps time to dive into your big UA-cam following on maintenance vids, no? So popular that you could make it 30min and build up some viewer hours! Cheers Farmer John
Ha! We'll I suppose I could do that. Glad to hear that you got your Mark V under control and I hope you two are making mounds and mounds of sawdust for years to come. Scott
The mask arrived today. All is well. New, in box. Without using it it has my two thumbs up (at this time) 1. It’s red and black. Easily visible. The white masks become . Seems I never put them back in the same place twice. 2. The elastic straps are easily adjustable, the mask fits. Thanks for the heads up.👍👍🤜🤛
Very well explained. I never new it the bottom idler was a automotive water pump bearing. very interesting. I haven't had to replace it on any of mine yet. It seams to be a very robust bearing. But I did find all the other bearings are a common size and easy to find online. I even was able to knock the little bearing out of the back of the speed control sheave and replace it. I got ten for 5 bucks I think. I had to make a new shaft with the button and did it out of a small bolt that I rounded the head off and domed it and drilled a hole so it can be pulled in and out by that clip. I have a lot of hours on it and its holding up just fine. Saved me around 50 bucks or so for the new part. I love how the basic of this machine has remained the same for so many years and a 1950's machine can be brought all the way up to a powerpro with just the purchase of the parts.
Very good solution on the button bearing. Yes, the headstock I retrofitted with a PowerPro kit during the beta test was a 1955 "Greenie" and it went perfectly. Such a neat tool. Scott
Truly want to thank you for taking your time to produce these videos. The simple little things you teach save us all so much frustration and heartache. Happy, safe, and healthy Holidays to you and yours.
This has been helpful. I've wrestled the headstock off and in not knowing the trick with the table. 🙄. Just had to replace the quadrant assembly on my 91 Mark V. The srew on holding down the right side of the speed control was stripped so I got a regular bolt and put a nut on the back. Seems to work nicely. Now I know how to get that headstock off and on MUCH easier.
I am fairly new to the shopsmith, I was introduced to this wonderful tool by a "shopsmith good neighbor" and your videos along with his knowledge have been amazingly complimentary to my learning of this machine and the upkeep.
I really love the videos! I'm embarrassed to say that I have not ever oiled my shopsmith that my wife talked me into buying when we were newlyweds. On my project list. :-)
i just purchased a mark v, 2 days ago,1990's era,with bandsaw and scroll saw,,still going through 2 boxes of parts,,definitely going to lube up the head,and do a through,cleaning .thanks for the informative vids
Yeah .i used one back in the 80's, and got to thinking, if I ever find one at a good price I'll buy it . Well it finally happened,,even got the manual,
Wow, I bet mine has never seen a drop of oil since new. Bought my Mk IV from a gentleman who bought his new and I bet that was over 20 years ago. Time to remove my head stock and do the same.
Glad I found your channel! I have a Shopsmith that's been upgraded with just about every tool and upgrade they make. Doug Reid used to be my go-to for SS advice and tips, but he's not been making videos for years. Thanks, Scott!
A great demonstration of removing the headstock. Too heavy for me anymore. I have oiled my headstocks for the past 30 years with it in the drill press mode raising the belt shield up the ways and clamping it up there. It seems easier for me to get at the lower sheaves and oiling the upper sheaves is easy through the back hole from almost any position.
Good point. I was planning on showing that alternative during the mid-week follow-up, but you’ve just given me another reason that someone might want to approach it that way. Thanks, Scott
Happy to share it and I can confirm that it is a bear! I was thrilled to learn that tip and it came too late for my first attempt at removal. Luckily I was stronger when I was dumber! Scott
Wise man. Back in my days at Shopsmith, we had a very cool headstock mount that allowed us to flip the headstock over and over safely if we needed to. You can see one in use on this video: ua-cam.com/video/X9ml4gCSB0o/v-deo.html
Excellent video. I truly need to lube my SS and do a full oil maint. I have never had it apart for the 4 years I have owned it. I use it primarily as a thicknesser and I am sure that is not adding to it's happy life. If you don't mind, I will kindly mention your videos as a reference to my 'rookie SS tune up'. video. As always, Good job Scott! Kevin
Hey Kevin. Yeah, four years in I'd say it's a little overdue. But you know, just like they say about planting trees: The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago, but the second best time is today. I think there's a correlation and that you're right on time. I welcome them shout-out! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings ........and the 2nd best time is today :) yes I am very familiar with the term and I will put that task very close to the top of the list :)
Sorry to hear head stock rolled off the table . I would like to build a fixture like James Hop has on the Shopsmith repair channel has. Do you know of any plans. for it ? Keep them coming. Always learn something new.
@@lancefarmer8096 That’s a fixture that Shopsmith used to have made for all their retails stores so we could repair customer’s headstocks. I don’t have plans but it’s not a complicated rig. It could even be constructed from wood.
Love your videos, they have helped me tremendously over the last week! I just picked up a 2003 mark v with less then 5 hours of lifetime use on it. But it’s been sitting in a dusty old basement since 03. Needs a serious cleaning and wax job.
On my 1981 Mark V I am able to avoid removing the head stock (and the associated potential problems with that) and doing all the maintenance in place. 1. Remove the table 2. Move headstock to far-right position. 3. Raise to drill press position. 4. Re-insert the table from the back side and rotate to horizontal - forming a "work platform". 5. Remove the top cover and set aside (requires removing the tie-bar on the way tubes). 6. Then remove back panel - all the motor weight now resting on the table. 7. Remove the belt, 4 motor mount screws, and unplug the power cord from the switch. Now the motor can be safely placed on the floor and you have full access to all internals, at eye level, no bending - no balancing, clamping, or chance of anything falling.
This is an excellent video. Extremely well done. Thank you for posting and I look forward to watching your other content to learn more about my "new" used Mark V.
good oil my dad used it on his. I use a high end gun oil. Is stays on a lot longer than 3 in one or any other oil I have used. Made by qmaxx. Its kind of expensive like 20 bucks for 6 ounces but I haven't found much better in a light weight oil and it last a long time. Especially good for lubing stuff that's prone to weather because it is one of the only oils heavier than water. The oil doesn't break down or float off if something gets wet. Not that my mark v sets outside but it works good on anything that does. If you are a gun nut like me it is for sure the best stuff to take care of your babies.
That folding project table you have that you sent the headstock down on... If you get yourself a piece of flat rubber. Something that's good quality and has some stickiness to it. Open up that table put the rubber across the opening and get the bottom curve of the headstock to sit down in that opening. It won't roll around on you and you can always walk around the project table.
Great video Scott! I'm due to open mine up and give it a good once over again soon, so very timely. My '80s vintage Mk V quill doesn't turn easily by hand like yours does...hopefully you can touch on possible causes in a future video.
The big problem I’ve had with my Mark V is the non-moving (the inner) half of the lower sheave. It is held in place by a set screw and over time that set screw looses its grip and that half if the sheave gets pushed against motor support plate just behind it. When that happens, rotation is stuck. To fix that, I have to remove the spring (very carefully - it’s extremely strong) and then reset the inner sheave half to properly clear the support plate with the set screw. Putting that spring back on is REALLY DIFFICULT and potentially dangerous. There are probably spring compression tools that would help here, but I don’t have any. I’ve done this procedure probably 4 or 5 times over the last 10 years or so, and I dread it. I love my SS but this issue is its Achilles Heel. There are a few other issues with the speed mechanism I have, too - wish I had the newer electronic controlled headstock.
Yes, Shopsmith added a spacer to this very spot years ago to prevent that sheave from moving into the motor. Also, that spring is no joke. I wouldn't even thing of messing with it without first making the 2x4 tool Shopsmith suggests. Better yet, I wish they would offer for sale the tool that they made for us to use in the stores in our service center. It was really handy and very safe, but I'm sure they were expensive. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The problem hit again, just after I thought I had it fixed. It’s interesting to know that SS has installed a spacer to prevent this issue. I’m almost ready to give up. I don’t know what to do - I can’t spend all my time fixing this machine.
My 500 is from1980 and it looks like the Poly belt is original. Starting to get some slip. Have you done a video on replacing that belt. Also, thanks for showing how the lower pulley should work. Mine was always stiff and thought that was how it worked. Great presentation.
Not yet. I'm kind of doing these as my machine needs the maintenance, but I would imagine that one or another of my machines probably needs to have the poly-v belt replaced. The speed dial will always be tighter as we lower the speed than it is when we increase it, but the kind of issue I discovered here can actually lead to failure of that little button bearing on the control sheave. It's really weird how that little part is somewhat of a weak link, but if we pay attention to routine maintenance, it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Hi... Thanks for the video! Have a 52 Greenie with two unusuall issues.... First is the back of the v belt contacts the way tube on operator side. Have tried 3 different belts from different vendors, no change. Positioning of components seems proper. Second issue is hairline CRAaKS inhousing on both sides of notch belt berrings... Photos would help a bunch....
I suspect that the idler shart eccentric is turned the wrong way. It'll still tighten the upper belt but it may be putting the upper control sheave too close to the front. Sorry to hear about the cracks. You can email me at ScottMarkwood(at)Gmail(dot)com
I was laughing when you picked up the oil. I use that on my wife's sewing machine, never thought to use it on the SS. The extendable spout is sure handy, Isn't it?
I restore vintage sewing machines and use this stuff regularly, including cleaning. I have to store them in a large pill bottle though, the bottles seem to deteriorate and the oil seeps out. Hate finding them empty when I need them.
Great video allot of good info. Could you speak to what different lubes you use where? Graphite, oil, wax. I inherited a greenie and it hasn't seen a lick of maintenance in 50 years more of these please
I broke two Shopsmith handle hubs. I have the Shopsmith adjustable magnetic handle. I like it. However, there’s a fellow who produces a better conventional drill press type handle. You might give that a look see.
I know bit of the ones you are talking about. The one that uses the quick release racing steering wheel hub is interesting, but I have a few reservations about it. I’d love to play with one.
This is excellent for checking out my Shopsmith which I just inherited from my father. It is a 1960's vintage (maybe even 1958) one. Can you offer any guidance for replacing the power cord - the sheath on mine is cracked. Any tips or advice to make the task go smoothly.
The power cord is very inexpensive from Shopsmith, though you will have to do a little filing to get the strain relief plug to fit into the motor pan since the new wire will be a bit larger. If you don't already have them you'll want to buy a couple decent files. Buy them at a good hardware store and industrial supplier. I suggest Nicholson. This is one of those times you really need to avoid Harbor Freight at all cost, even if you have a free flashlight coupon! The cord will come with instructions and a template. Just cut it out and trace it with a Sharpie onto the motor pan over the existing wire hole, and file until the entire Sharpie line is gone. The rest is easy, though I like to cromp the strain relief plug with a pare of slip=jaw pliers as I press it in. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the tips. I haven't used my Dad's Shopsmith since I was living at home (40 years ago). So, I am looking forward to getting it up and running again so I can enjoy doing some woodworking again.
The timeline has changed several times over the years and I suspect it’s because SS has more data and we know have more refined oils. It’s also very hard to track “run time”, so more than likely you’ll just want to add oil a couple times a year. Scott
For those who have a Mark V permanently mounted to a wall and used as a stationary dedicated drill press. I've always wondered how well are the sheaves receiving oil when doing maintenance? Especially the upper shaft were the oil hole on the shaft would be below the sheave with the headstock in the vertical position. I suppose you could tilt the headstock down, and everything would be upside down at that point. Perhaps I'm over thinking all of this.
That makes things tough. The best way to access it is to remove the belt cover and raise the machine to drill press position and access it from above. It helps to have the headstock located low on the way tubes so that it’s not too high to access. I hope that makes sense. I also guess I need to do a video on this approach because I don’t think I’ve included it in previous videos on lubrication. Scott
They have a factory in Dayton, Ohio, but they rarely offer tours. That said, they are going to have a bit of an open hour later this year that could be worth attending, and it will include tours. Check out the details on the Shopsmith Owner's Facebook group or online on the Shopsmith Forums. Scott
Thanks video just bought one of these with pretty much all accessories..been sitting ten years...one query....am a machinist by trade so wood will be new...would way lube be OK to use or would viscosity be too thick
@@miguelcastaneda7257 Got ya. I can’t see how it would hurt to try, but I would be very cognizant of how much resistance is encountered when raising the spreed, because you don’t want to have the speed control tugging on the small button bearing in the upper control sheave.
I doubt I have pictures but you never know. Are you handy with metalwork? Not that it couldn’t be made from wood, but the originals were metal and quite robust.
I'm a little unclear on how to do maintenance on the porkchop. I seem to remember seeing a video where someone sprayed some lubricant on/in the mark V but that seems like other issues could come up if you aren't careful. Do you have a good method to demonstrate how to make sure that it is operating the way it should?
Yes, the reason I didn’t touch on it is because I wanted this video to only address the 25 hour maintenance. The quadrant lubrication is controversial and my even be detrimental. If I lubricate it at all I use a dry lube like Top Coat or Boeshield T-9. If you’d like a heads-up, here’s what I use: amzn.to/32OCnSr I’ll address this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
Probably a dumb question, is it possible to remount the headstock on the way tubes if the wedges aren't aligned properly? Reason asking, I upgraded to the Power Pro headstock. Everything seemed fine when I installed it on the tubes but when I loosen the headstock lock it will make a noise like the wedges are being released under tension, if that makes any sense. The headstock slides along the full length of the tubes just fine and locks in place in vertical mode. Thanks for sharing and producing this channel. This has become my new favorite channel, even over all my watched gun, jeeping and beer making channels. Almost as much fun as watching old SI swimsuit model videos...well maybe not. Curt.
Wow Curt. In the words of Navin R. Johnson from “The Jerk”: “I'd just be happy to be in there somewhere”. I think I understand what you are describing and that’s perfectly normal. Just be sure that the tubes are properly waxed and that you’re not sliding the headstock over the wet wax and you should be fine.
Hi. I'm a Shop Smith newbie. I recently inherited one of these. It was my wife's grandfather's machine and nobody wanted it or knows what it's worth. I had never heard of one but have become quite interested in all things Shop Smith. The machine is located in Wisconsin and I want to bring it to Florida. My question is, can it be easily disassembled? I want to bring it back inside a Jeep. Thank you for your great videos and knowledge.
That’s awesome, Russell! It absolutely can be easily disassembled. I used to travel with mine in the front seat of a Suzuki Samurai! The legs on each end are held in place with five bolts and nuts; just remove the bolts and the legs easily remove. That’s as far down as I would suggest you disassemble it, until you have a little more experience with it. You can remove the tables and anything that is attached to it and those will compact nicely in store away in your jeep. Good luck, and once you have it, checked the channel for some helpful tips. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I sure will. Thank you. The machine didn't come with any tools so what should I bring along to make the appropriate disassemble to run in the Jeep? I'm only seeing a few hex wrenches in the videos I've watched.
@@rhess10 You’ll need a large flat blade screwdriver and a small adjustable wrench. The hex wrench that you’ll use for several adjustments as a 5/32” wrench, and that will likely come in handy too.
We're getting closer. My friend is Wisconsin has verified a few things. We've determined that's it's a Mark V. He thinks from the 80s. Where is the marking plate with serial number/model number located? Would I need an exact number to locate a manual? And where would I get a manual? Thanks for any details you could share.
As I mention at 0:27 there isn't much maintenance on the PowerPro at all. For the most part, it's just graphite on the headstock lock and way on the quill and occasionally blow the dust out of it. Scott
The quill is fine, but the quill lever will need to be replaced. I’ll get a stock replacement because I’m so used to it. Do you have an aftermarket quill lever?
@@daveschmitt6369 I used the three handle version when I worked at SS and it always seemed to be in the way. Their new multi-position lever looks interesting, but it also looks like it hangs way off the side of the headstock. Likewise, there’s a non-Shopsmith multi-position version that utilizes a quick mount bracket from the auto racing industry. It looks interesting and might be excellent for mortising because it is much longer than the stock lever. Like I said, I am so used to the OEM parts that I’m reluctant to change.
@@MyGrowthRings you haven’t responded to my probes about making a Shorty. Is that an insult to a purist like yourself. I work in a one car garage and have two Shopsmith’s with a jointer, band saw, jig saw, belt sander all shopsmith. In addition I have a planer, strip sander and router with jigs and radial arm saw. Converting the second to a shorty means I can make it a power station with all the flexibility of a full shopsmith. If all way tubes are bowed, then it seems that I would need to trim 9 inches off each end? B
@@daveschmitt6369 I don't recall seeing any messages about a shorty, so please forgive the radio silence. Yes, you read me correctly, though I am coming around a bit to your way of thinking. I hat to see a SS being cut-up, but you can always add longer tubes, so it really isn't causing permanent damage. I say go for it. Thanks for helping me through that! Scott
Scott, I have the new MK VII headstock. I have had it for about 6 years and I have noticed that the display fades away as the unit warms up. If I turn it off and let it set for about 30 minutes, the display comes back until warm again. Obviously during the winter it is not as pronounced. Any ideas?
John, it sounds like your headstock may be running a bit warm. I don’t know what the temperature range should be, but I recommend calling Shopsmith. Scott
I agree with David. Order a new belt and jut the old one off. You'll want to make sure that both sets of sheaves are well oiled and moving smoothly, but it's rare that they don't just snap right back into service. Scott
The sheave end of the idler shaft (also powers the jointer spindle) on my 1981 Mark V runs inside a sealed bearing - which is/was a press fit to the shaft. The bearing is fine (not frozen, no resistance) but the idler shaft turns inside the bearing race while the bearing remains still. Sometimes will squeal until I apply silicone or WD40. Someday I may "loctite" this, but haven't yet. Is this common ?
The bearings themselves are contained within the housing and are covered with a black seal. The seal should be all you can see and it doesn’t rotate with the shaft. Sounds like all is well to me. Scott
I'm a new SS owner and new to the community. The machine I picked up is mid 1980's (I believe) and the way tubes are a little rusty. Do you think I should try to wd40 and 3m, then wax them or just start fresh with new ones? Im going through you videos and Im going to tear it down to clean and lube everything before I try to use it. Your videos are awesome and absolutely necessary to a beginner like me, thanks!!!!
I always try to give the old ones a go. Just makes sure to clean as much of the rust off the tubes as you can before removing or sliding the headstock.
Hey Scott, Can 3 in 1 machine oil be used in the essential liquid lube areas of the motor that you discuss in this video; e.g., inside and along the motor shaft?
It’s been done and it’s far better than not oiling. Because 3-in-1 contains naphtha and a few other non-lubricating “herbs and spices” I don’t use it for this task. According to the MSDS, the oil I use is 99% “severely refined oil” and 1% distillates. It has never given me concern. Scott
My Maintenance and Troubleshooting manual is says, " Lubricate the floating sheaves (pulleys) with a good 10w30 non-detergent motor oil", but I see you are using a much lighter oil. Which is correct? Also, I have been using the 10w30 per my manual - should I change over to the lighter oil in the future?
It really depends upon which manual you read as to which oil is recommended. I found a 30 weight oil to be too thick but if you don’t lubricate often, that might be a good choice.
First off, make sure that we are talking about the knob on the front of the headstock, near the switch. Odds are that it is missing one or more of the washers that go between it and the yoke on the inside of the casting that actually grips the quill. I suggest taking a look at an exploded view and make sure that all the parts are installed.
What kinds of oils should I be using? I acquired a partial Mark 500 over the weekend. It is missing tailstock, tool rest, and the disc arbor. It’s been stored a long time and needs some care but I’m happy to have at least the drill press and table saw functions for now.
Good question and there are several. I covered them in this video: ua-cam.com/video/awESOE8NbfM/v-deo.html BTW, welcome to the Shopsmith family! Those missing parts are easy to find used on eBay or even new from Shopsmith. Scott
Ron, click on the "show more" link for all the details. Also, there's even more info on other points that need lubrication, check-out this video: ua-cam.com/video/awESOE8NbfM/v-deo.html Scott
Sorry for this long comment; Hey Scott, I have a couple more questions. I have a model 500 I believe based on the table/fence system. It has an all aluminum table (without the red insert) but also without the 2nd blade slot. Also with the fence that has no mitre slot and the twist knob only. No round tubes or square extrusion. I am wondering what upgrades you recommend and if possible what ones I should get first. (Obviously it would depend what functions I use the most.) I have another table saw, so I don't use the table and fence for sawing, at least not currently, but I do use them for drilling, boring, and sanding. I have the jointer and bandsaw for it, which I also use a lot, and then everything else that came stock. The accessory rack underneath/on the way tubes, is that the one that ShopSmith sells? It looks very useful. I'm sorry if you covered things I'm asking in previous videos, I'm slowly getting to them all. I just saw your video about using a Bosch bandsaw blade, and I just wanted to tell you to look at Sawblade.com. They have a great selection of any kind of blade length/TPI you could imagine, they cut really well, I would guess way better than the Bosch you got, and they are pretty cheap for how well they work. You can pick what machine you have, and they guarantee they will fit, or you can choose your own custom size. I obviously picked the ShopSmith, and they fit perfectly. I chose what width, and what TPI I wanted, and they shipped them I believe within 8 days I had them. They have flex back, hard back, and carbide tooth blades, and I'm sure plenty more. I thought you would enjoy the options. Thanks again, and sorry for the long comment.
Yep, that's a 500 alright. It's an early one too because Shopsmith eliminated the second slot, neat the left side of the table, back in the 1970's. It was handy because you could make wider rip cuts without having to use the extension table, but is wasn't very safe because they lower saw guard, if there even was one, was attached to the table's tie bar, and that was way off to the right when you used that slot. The other issue with it was the table flexed and could even bend under some loads, which as drilling and mortising. I really like the 510, but if you aren't going to use the table saw much of what it offers won't be useful to you. It still would give you t-slot miter gauge slots, which can be handy for jigs, fixtures and clamps, and the fence is larger and more reliable. The same is true of the 520 table system. The accessory table on this Mark V was made by the previous owner and it is pretty awful. I like having one on my Mark V, but this one has got to go! The Bosch blade purchase was a bit of a goof, just to see if it would work in a pinch. I usually have Timber Wolf blades on my bandsaws. I am a member of Izzy Swan's Makers Playground and get a discount from Sawblades.com, but I've not yet been tempted to switch. Perhaps one day I'll give their blades a try. Thanks for the tip, Scott
Do you have any idea what size the threaded clips that the screws that hold the motor cover on are? a amazon source or a hardware store one would be great. I got a used mark 5 and they were missing.
It kind of depends upon when your machine was made and what size Tinnerman clips were used. Most are #6-32 1/2” long, but if you are adding the motor pan screws I would drive them slowly just to make sure that they aren’t going to drip the threads. Good luck.
Hey Scott, I have been cleaning up my coverted 500 to 510 and it looks like my Dad bought one of the first Mark 5. I have a letter from Shopsmith. Date somewhere between 1955 or 57, i think. There is no access hole behind the name plate, and I can't seem to find the small oiling hole under the spring of the lower shieve. Can you help me with lubeing the headstock. Also, the quill springing back like it should but after I waxed it and let it dry, it has become sticky and not moving correctly. Can I oil it and locking mechanism to loosen it up, or should it be removed and cleaned? Help....... Greg
Hey Greg. Yes, when Magna Engineering created the Mark V they somehow forgot that we’d need access to the interior for oiling! To oil the control sheave you need to remove the belt cover and drop the motor pan and oil it from the bottom. Fortunately, this can best be done with the machine in the drill press position, and if you insert your table from the bottom of the carriage your table will be directly underneath the motor pan where it can support the motor. Once that is all open and accessible it’s very easy to apply oil. On the lower sheaves, you simply pull the movable half of the Chiv outward while dropping oil onto the shaft below. It’s awkward, but that’s how it’s done. Thank you for the reminder that I haven’t done a video on this process, so I guess it’s time. Scott
Scott, do you ever sleep? Lol thank you for such a quick response! Wow, it's like just calling you on the Batphone...... What's your thoughts on the issue I have with the quill? Greg
@@gregwilsonnaturephotography And yes, remove the quill and clean it and the housing in the headstock. Most likely it has some goopy old way buildup that the solvents in the new wax loosened up.
Do you have to remove the belt if you don't take the headstock off? I have a mid to late 80s model, the one that the logo pops off like you described. I just got it maybe 2 months ago and I've only used it about 60-90 minutesof run time total so far but that's about to change. I want to make sure everything is good to go. The speed dial is a bit tough to move from fast to slower. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your videos, they've helped me a lot so far. Keep em' comin! 😁
I've waxed it and lubed the band saw because that's what I've used the most but I haven't lubed the headstock itself which I know I should have before using it... I'm not using it again until I lube everything and do anything else I need to.
The belt can be removed with the headstock on the Mark V, but I find it a little tougher to do. Yes, it's always harder to go from fast to slow speed, but oiling will help. Thanks for watching and commenting! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the reply! Is there anything else you think I should know before I take the belt off? Any special trick to get it back on easier? I'm pretty handy with mechanical stuff usually, but any expert advise is always welcomed. Also, should I consider replacing the belt? Or is it usually good for a while? The guy I got it from took care of it from what I can tell, no rust, (minor surface rust only on the jointer blades that came off easily) but not even really any sawdust on the inside of the headstock, and the band saw was nearly spotless inside. Thank you again, I sincerely enjoy your videos and the knowledge you share with us all.
I have Mark V (approx. 1984 version) . I noticed you covered the motor sheave parts but did not cover how it operates on the shaft. When operating the speed control it does not change speeds, the sheaves do not mesh and leaves the belt very loose. The motor sheaves will not close to the 1/2" it should and hits each other leaving a gap of approx. 1-3/8". I was hoping you would have shown how this assembly is disassembled and reassembled to give me an idea if something slipped, moved or out of alignment. Can you help?
I suspect you have several things going on. In all likelihood you are missing a bearing and a bale that connects to the control sheave. It also sounds like that control sheave may have moved so far that it has left the keyway, which has allowed the sheaves to disengage from one another. I highly recommend seeking out Jacob Anderson’s teardown videos. Scott
The quill on my 510 is very stiff until it extends to the point where I can see the groove on top of it. I tried applying paste wax and wiping it off, but there is no change. What else can I try?
Hey Steve. Any chance the the set screw that runs in that groove is set too deep? If not, you might want to remove the quill and clean everything out inside and the teeth on the underside of the quill. Just guesses, but a place to start. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I removed the quill, cleaned it up and reinstalled. Works great, now! Now for another issue. When I started up my 510 (at slow speed) it ran smoothly, but as I increased speed, it started making a grinding sound as I went halfway to top speed. I took the power plant off as you demonstrated and removed the belt cover so I can rotate the drive manually. I'm getting the sound from near the sheaves. Everything is clean inside the case. Any thoughts?
@@wxman5000 Sounds like a bearing. Most likely the small bearing in the control sheave. Can you observe through the opening in the back of the headstock while it is running to see if that is the source? The idler shaft can also be problematic.
@@wxman5000 Can you tell if the noise is coming from the idler shaft or inside from the control sheave bearing? The old screwdriver to the ear trick can help.
Scott, I have a Mark V model 500. I haven't turned it on in about 25 years. It's been in storage. Other than the 25 hour maintenance is there anything else I need to do before I turn it on again. ???? I did the maintenance before I put it away. I haven't located my the manual yet. Thanks, Love your videos. Clyde
Hey Clyde. I misread what you were saying, thinking it had been 25 years since you had turned (wood) on your Mark V, but now I get it! Welcome back to the shop! I think you will find that it's in pretty good shape. I would suggest turning it on and letting it run with nothing installed on the headstock for 10 minutes or so. That will get the grease in the bearings to loosen up and do its thing. After that run-in, I would pull off the covers and oil the motor sheave and the control sheave. Double-check the belts to make sure that they haven't developed dry rot and you should be good to go. Thanks for watching and commenting and enjoy making sawdust! Scott
Not with oil. You can add grease, wax or a dry lube to the rack on the quadrant and or to the worm gear, but they’d not something that needs to be done every 25 hours. There!s even another spot under the dial that some like to add wax. Scott
@@Peter-od7op My email address is ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com. The Mark VII was made in the 1960’s while the current version is a “Mark 7”. Yes, it’s pronounced exactly the same, but there are many differences. You should be able to find a copy of not only the owners manual on eBay or on VintageMachinery.com (or is it .org?) and I would also suggest you get a copy of the book “Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone”. There have been several revisions to that book and there is one that covers the Mark VII in detail. Scott
So I've done this maintenance on my used Mark V (I've had it a couple months), seemed to improved the function a bit, but I have another issue I'm wondering if you have any insight on. If I manually rotate the quill, there's a slight sandy/gritty kind of feeling (and a sublte creaky noise). I'm thinking this may mean some bearing or another is dying. FWIW the belts look almost brand new (I know someone did some general maintenance on it before I bought it). It's a 510 from 1987. So my question is effectively: Is that normal? Is it a problem with the quill? one of the bearings you mentioned in the Q&A video associated with this video? Is there something I should be doing to get that to turn smoother (it turns, it just feels... a little gritty).
There are three to four bearings running from the til of the quill to the far end of the headstock and any one of those could be bad. I suggest running the machine for a few minutes and then feel the left side of the headstock and extend the quill and feel it to see in any of the bearings are running hot. That's usually an indication that there's a problem. Also, you might want to mount a long drill bit in the drill chuck and see if you can see any wobble in it. Slight noises and a little "graininess" doesn't bother me too much, as long as everything seems to be running true. The bearings are sealed and there's nothing you can do but replace them, and that's actually a pretty easy task. Search UA-cam for "Jacob Anderson" and you'll see that he has several useful videos that address changing bearings. Scott
Thanks for the video! Just got myself a 90's 510 along with a bunch of accessories for just over $300. Thing looks great and well taken care of but still want to service it before I start making use of it. Cant wait to learn to use it well and hopefully use it in some of my own content!
@@travisfjeld8082 That’s awesome! I’m subbing now!
A ton of great advice and tips here, thank you. I'd like to mention, that sealed bearings can be serviced, the seal pops off and on easily, and it's worthwhile to do. Only put a little bit of grease in them though, rule of thumb is 25% full of grease. Hopefully this is useful to someone.
I have not done any turnings in 10 years, I needed your tips. I have not oiled the machine since I changed belt 2001, I will today THANKS
Get on it!!
Finished it 10minutes ago, lots of sawdust@@MyGrowthRings
I serviced mine in placce without removing the headstock. It went really well with no issues at all.
Yes, it can be done. Scott
Hey Scott! This is Steve. I won 2nd place in a corncob pipe contest a couple of years back on your cobfoolery contest. The churchwarden with the helical balsa filter and the cob insert into a banksia pod. Came to youtube looking for a vid about the speed adjustment set up on a shopsmith and found this video. What are the odds? Thanks for posting this. It showed me how the lever and dial went back together, and the oil points. Works great again. Hope all is well with you during this odd time. Thanks again!
Hey Steve! I remember you and your pipe. Hope all is well in your neck of the woods and glad to hear the video was helpful. Scott
Thanks for including the pointers for those of us with the early Mark V 500s with no access hole.
The best approach is to leave the headstock in the tubes and in the drill press position move the main table to the back by installing it backward in the carriage. From there you can drop the motor pan and access the entire headstock cavity from the bottom. If I have time I'll demonstrate this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
I think I answered a question you didn't ask!
@@MyGrowthRings Yea, but I was thinking it.
Great tip to use the table to raise the way tubes enough to slide the headstock off. I've used something like a 2x8 offcut randomly stuffed on edge under the tubes and pried the headstock off, praying that the offcut wouldn't suddenly fall over and bring everything crashing down!
I've done that too and had the same hesitation. The method shown here works very well, assuming you have a long enough board laying around. Scott
This was worth watching just for the "trick" to more easily removing the headstock. Now I have no excuse for not re-removing mine and reinstalling the rubber buffer ring I forgot to put on the way tube!
I just bought a house where the seller threw in their Mark V with the deal. Thank you so much for all of the content on maintaining them. I can’t wait to get mine properly maintained.
Wow, what a deal!
@@MyGrowthRings That it was!
I have a 1985 Mark 5 10 I bought new. Rebuilt a huge bay window out of cypress on our riverfront home. Since that time the machine has not worked a lot, but in storage in coastal environments (I.e. salt air!). Moved machine to Charleston 2005, and kept in garage. Tried to use but noticed belt was slipping. Got new belt from SS watched your vid. Got old belt off, but bottom Sheave was was frozen closed! Pried and banged to no avail, break free heavily applied. Purchased 6” pulley puller, sheave wouldn’t budge. Finally applied direct heat with Plumber’s torch, very carefully and prayerfully, while cranking down on the puller. Sheave moved and compressed spring, poured oil on shaft, worked back and forth, until movement was free and snappy. Machine runs like a champ with new belt and oiled sheaves. Thanks for a great vid!
Wow, what an ordeal! The motor shaft is stainless steel, so it's likely that either the sheave got corroded or that at some point in the past it got sprayed with WD40. Glad to hear you got it worked out. Scott
I just can’t get over these videos! Thanks Mark as I’m pulling off headstock right now to lubricate. Hopefully will fix my problem I emailed you about. Just a side note….I noticed your annoyance with bent quill lever. It happens to the best of us….I’m the king of screwups😂😂.
Wasn't sure on which of your videos to leave this comment. But this one will work.
I am getting ready to do clean up and overhaul of my 1954 Greenie. I bought this machine from a neighbor nearly 30 years ago. I recently gotten a couple of Shopsmith bandsaws, which are very nice to have. My drill quill is stuck and I will probably have a great adventure of getting parts and rebuilding.
The Serial Number on my machine is VERY early - # 263557. And except for the new belt I installed around 1994 I don't think anything inside has ever been replaced. When I replaced that belt I cleared out about 2 gallons of sawdust from inside the housing.
Thanks for such great information on these machines.
Bill, the journey is half the fun. eBay is your friend for most of the internal organs of your early headstock. Thanks for checking in, Scott
Scott,
I learn something from every video. Locking the wedges is such a great hint. I always have had trouble with them in the past. Now I hope to remember your hint.
Glad to help. Yeah, I couldn't believe I missed that. Between that and dropping the headstock, I wasn't having my best day. Thankfully the jointer was on the floor to break its fall. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Is it difficult to put the wedges back into "the correct timing"?
@@BunkyC36 Not really, but if you aren’t expecting it, having to mess around with that while you are holding 65lbs in the air and 3/4” into the way tubes isn’t ideal timing!
@@MyGrowthRings Garry not Linda. ( I have to get my own email someday.) I also had my headstock rebuilt by Alex, mentioned above, a couple of years ago. I caught a trick that I think he used to get the locks back in the correct position. There is a marker dot on the casting and another on the end of the locks on both sides. If the locks aren't messed with during maintenance or repairs, check that the marks are lined up before sliding the headstock on and all should be good.
@@bassrun101 Yes, there’s a part line from the die where it was cast. A very useful tip. Scott
Love this series, have had my Mark V since 1983.
Thanks! That's a little longer than me. Can I assume yours is a model 500? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings It is Scott. I had the headstock refurbished and new motor installed by a retired NASA engineer named Alex from out west...it was worth it! I use my Shopsmith constantly.
@@looper9264 That's awesome, though repairing the Mark V isn't rocket science! Great story.
@@MyGrowthRings Trust me (lol), I've torn my Shopsmith down numerous times to change belts and clean out the dust, but I don't own a proper bearing puller; being cast aluminum I didn't want to chance busting out the casting. I also broke my original switch, so I've rigged more than one good switch too. Thanks for your informative videos, they are priceless to a guy like me.
@@looper9264 Garry not Linda. Ya, I had my 500 redone by Alex also. Mine was in terrible shape. It was so bad I could stop the shaft with my hand. He did an excellent job and turnaround time was fairly good. He was held up waiting for parts from Shopsmith. Shipping to and from New Mexico costed nearly as much as the rebuild but yes, it was definitely worth it.
This was a great teaching video!! ... alas, no-one will see my comment and well-deserved praise ... take note, you haven't had a more popular video since this one! I followed every step to get my barn-recovery Mark V up to the so-called 25hr maintenance mark, including freeing up the speed control dial and rack and pinion control, overcoming exactly the same issue you confronted on the motor pulley spring and (using your Oakville reference!) changing out the main belt which was rigid in an oval shape, although happily not too worn, suggesting low mileage on the machine ... but in the video you suggested a follow-on video on other maintenance and stated that there were two other belts deserving attention (does the drill press quill and upper rear take-off spin constantly in lathe use or is there some sort of clutch?) ... anyway, perhaps time to dive into your big UA-cam following on maintenance vids, no? So popular that you could make it 30min and build up some viewer hours! Cheers Farmer John
Ha! We'll I suppose I could do that. Glad to hear that you got your Mark V under control and I hope you two are making mounds and mounds of sawdust for years to come. Scott
The mask arrived today. All is well. New, in box.
Without using it it has my two thumbs up (at this time)
1. It’s red and black. Easily visible. The white masks become . Seems I never put them back in the same place twice.
2. The elastic straps are easily adjustable, the mask fits.
Thanks for the heads up.👍👍🤜🤛
Awesome. Thanks for the report.
Very well explained. I never new it the bottom idler was a automotive water pump bearing. very interesting. I haven't had to replace it on any of mine yet. It seams to be a very robust bearing. But I did find all the other bearings are a common size and easy to find online. I even was able to knock the little bearing out of the back of the speed control sheave and replace it. I got ten for 5 bucks I think. I had to make a new shaft with the button and did it out of a small bolt that I rounded the head off and domed it and drilled a hole so it can be pulled in and out by that clip. I have a lot of hours on it and its holding up just fine. Saved me around 50 bucks or so for the new part. I love how the basic of this machine has remained the same for so many years and a 1950's machine can be brought all the way up to a powerpro with just the purchase of the parts.
Very good solution on the button bearing. Yes, the headstock I retrofitted with a PowerPro kit during the beta test was a 1955 "Greenie" and it went perfectly. Such a neat tool. Scott
Truly want to thank you for taking your time to produce these videos. The simple little things you teach save us all so much frustration and heartache. Happy, safe, and healthy Holidays to you and yours.
Thank you for the encouragement and the well wishes. I wish the same for you and yours. Scott
You recommended a guy that rebuilds the little gear that spins on the top of the speed dial on eBay, he does a great job thanks for the recommendation
Glad you are pleased. Thanks for reporting back. Scott
This has been helpful. I've wrestled the headstock off and in not knowing the trick with the table. 🙄. Just had to replace the quadrant assembly on my 91 Mark V. The srew on holding down the right side of the speed control was stripped so I got a regular bolt and put a nut on the back. Seems to work nicely. Now I know how to get that headstock off and on MUCH easier.
That was a smart solution for the stripped thread. Happy this helps. Scott
I am fairly new to the shopsmith, I was introduced to this wonderful tool by a "shopsmith good neighbor" and your videos along with his knowledge have been amazingly complimentary to my learning of this machine and the upkeep.
Glad to help and welcome. What sort of things are you planning on building or doing? Scott
I really love the videos! I'm embarrassed to say that I have not ever oiled my shopsmith that my wife talked me into buying when we were newlyweds. On my project list. :-)
She sounds like a keeper. The Shopsmith too! Get on that oil...
Very good video. You seem to be blessed with a wealth of information. Thanks so much for sharing. Take care and God Bless.
Thanks. It’s a passion.
i just purchased a mark v, 2 days ago,1990's era,with bandsaw and scroll saw,,still going through 2 boxes of parts,,definitely going to lube up the head,and do a through,cleaning .thanks for the informative vids
Congratulations! First Shopsmith? Scott
Yeah .i used one back in the 80's, and got to thinking, if I ever find one at a good price I'll buy it .
Well it finally happened,,even got the manual,
@@jimmyFX That’s awesome. Well, welcome back to the Shopsmith family!
Bought a used Mark 7 yesterday and your channel is amazing. Thank you for all you are doing.
Congratulations and welcome to the Shopsmith family! It's great to have you here and I'm happy to share. Scott
Great video! Just wish that I had seen this years ago, it would have made things a lot easier and complete. Thanks
You are welcome and at least now you know. Scott
Wow, I bet mine has never seen a drop of oil since new. Bought my Mk IV from a gentleman who bought his new and I bet that was over 20 years ago. Time to remove my head stock and do the same.
Oh my, yes. Especially with the plastic cam in the speed controller of the MKVII, you want to make sure that the control sheave is well lubricated.
Glad I found your channel! I have a Shopsmith that's been upgraded with just about every tool and upgrade they make. Doug Reid used to be my go-to for SS advice and tips, but he's not been making videos for years. Thanks, Scott!
Happy to have you here. Doug is still active doing Shopsmith webinars, but yeah, I also miss his face on UA-cam. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I am curious about Doug's webinars Scott. How do I find them? I bought my Mark VII from him but have not seen him online.
@@roberthiday3342 You can email him at ShopsmithDoug@gmail.com
You can also get one of those Zoom spout oilers at any fabric store.
A great demonstration of removing the headstock. Too heavy for me anymore. I have oiled my headstocks for the past 30 years with it in the drill press mode raising the belt shield up the ways and clamping it up there. It seems easier for me to get at the lower sheaves and oiling the upper sheaves is easy through the back hole from almost any position.
Good point. I was planning on showing that alternative during the mid-week follow-up, but you’ve just given me another reason that someone might want to approach it that way. Thanks, Scott
Thanks for the 2x4 tip. It would be a bear for one person to remove the headstock without that.
Happy to share it and I can confirm that it is a bear! I was thrilled to learn that tip and it came too late for my first attempt at removal. Luckily I was stronger when I was dumber! Scott
Thanks for your help 👍
Happy to help. Scott
Great video! I'm still playing catchup on the series. Thanks for doing these, they are a blessing!
Glad you like them!
Scott I saw this on Jacob’s repair video. He has a couple of wood triangles to hold head stock on the table!
Wise man. Back in my days at Shopsmith, we had a very cool headstock mount that allowed us to flip the headstock over and over safely if we needed to. You can see one in use on this video: ua-cam.com/video/X9ml4gCSB0o/v-deo.html
Excellent video. I truly need to lube my SS and do a full oil maint. I have never had it apart for the 4 years I have owned it. I use it primarily as a thicknesser and I am sure that is not adding to it's happy life.
If you don't mind, I will kindly mention your videos as a reference to my 'rookie SS tune up'. video.
As always, Good job Scott!
Kevin
Hey Kevin. Yeah, four years in I'd say it's a little overdue. But you know, just like they say about planting trees: The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago, but the second best time is today. I think there's a correlation and that you're right on time. I welcome them shout-out! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings ........and the 2nd best time is today :) yes I am very familiar with the term and I will put that task very close to the top of the list :)
Sorry to hear head stock rolled off the table . I would like to build a fixture like James Hop has on the Shopsmith repair channel has. Do you know of any plans.
for it ? Keep them coming. Always learn something new.
@@lancefarmer8096 That’s a fixture that Shopsmith used to have made for all their retails stores so we could repair customer’s headstocks. I don’t have plans but it’s not a complicated rig. It could even be constructed from wood.
Love your videos, they have helped me tremendously over the last week! I just picked up a 2003 mark v with less then 5 hours of lifetime use on it. But it’s been sitting in a dusty old basement since 03. Needs a serious cleaning and wax job.
Excellent. Glad to hear you are saving her from a life of solitude. Have fun! Scott
On my 1981 Mark V I am able to avoid removing the head stock (and the associated potential problems with that) and doing all the maintenance in place.
1. Remove the table 2. Move headstock to far-right position. 3. Raise to drill press position. 4. Re-insert the table from the back side and rotate to horizontal - forming a "work platform". 5. Remove the top cover and set aside (requires removing the tie-bar on the way tubes). 6. Then remove back panel - all the motor weight now resting on the table. 7. Remove the belt, 4 motor mount screws, and unplug the power cord from the switch.
Now the motor can be safely placed on the floor and you have full access to all internals, at eye level, no bending - no balancing, clamping, or chance of anything falling.
Yep, that's how it's done on the early machines that have no access hole.
This is an excellent video. Extremely well done. Thank you for posting and I look forward to watching your other content to learn more about my "new" used Mark V.
Thank you very much! Is this your first Shopsmith tool? Scott
Great episode Scott! I use 3-in-1 to lubricate. The local Walmart carried it with the same long applicator.
There’s nothing wrong with 3-in-1.
good oil my dad used it on his. I use a high end gun oil. Is stays on a lot longer than 3 in one or any other oil I have used. Made by qmaxx. Its kind of expensive like 20 bucks for 6 ounces but I haven't found much better in a light weight oil and it last a long time. Especially good for lubing stuff that's prone to weather because it is one of the only oils heavier than water. The oil doesn't break down or float off if something gets wet. Not that my mark v sets outside but it works good on anything that does. If you are a gun nut like me it is for sure the best stuff to take care of your babies.
That folding project table you have that you sent the headstock down on... If you get yourself a piece of flat rubber. Something that's good quality and has some stickiness to it. Open up that table put the rubber across the opening and get the bottom curve of the headstock to sit down in that opening. It won't roll around on you and you can always walk around the project table.
Great tip
Great video Scott! I'm due to open mine up and give it a good once over again soon, so very timely. My '80s vintage Mk V quill doesn't turn easily by hand like yours does...hopefully you can touch on possible causes in a future video.
Rule 1: Don’t drop it onto you jointer.
Excellent! I Always learn something watching your videos.
Thanks!
Thanks for the great tips and sharing your mistakes also!
Oh, I have a bunch to share!
Very interesting 👍🏻
Thanks for the visit.
Great video Scott, as usual. Thank you.
Thanks, Pete!
The big problem I’ve had with my Mark V is the non-moving (the inner) half of the lower sheave. It is held in place by a set screw and over time that set screw looses its grip and that half if the sheave gets pushed against motor support plate just behind it. When that happens, rotation is stuck. To fix that, I have to remove the spring (very carefully - it’s extremely strong) and then reset the inner sheave half to properly clear the support plate with the set screw. Putting that spring back on is REALLY DIFFICULT and potentially dangerous. There are probably spring compression tools that would help here, but I don’t have any. I’ve done this procedure probably 4 or 5 times over the last 10 years or so, and I dread it. I love my SS but this issue is its Achilles Heel. There are a few other issues with the speed mechanism I have, too - wish I had the newer electronic controlled headstock.
Yes, Shopsmith added a spacer to this very spot years ago to prevent that sheave from moving into the motor. Also, that spring is no joke. I wouldn't even thing of messing with it without first making the 2x4 tool Shopsmith suggests. Better yet, I wish they would offer for sale the tool that they made for us to use in the stores in our service center. It was really handy and very safe, but I'm sure they were expensive. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The problem hit again, just after I thought I had it fixed. It’s interesting to know that SS has installed a spacer to prevent this issue. I’m almost ready to give up. I don’t know what to do - I can’t spend all my time fixing this machine.
@@Dogsnark I would get the spacer from SS. I don’t imagine it’s very expensive.
It's part 504205 Spacer Sheave and they are $5.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks! I’ll send off an order pronto.
Thanks for clarifying that the PowerPro does not require lubrication maintenance.
You are welcome, Richard. Happy to share. Scott
That was a great video.
Thanks!
My 500 is from1980 and it looks like the Poly belt is original. Starting to get some slip. Have you done a video on replacing that belt. Also, thanks for showing how the lower pulley should work. Mine was always stiff and thought that was how it worked. Great presentation.
Not yet. I'm kind of doing these as my machine needs the maintenance, but I would imagine that one or another of my machines probably needs to have the poly-v belt replaced. The speed dial will always be tighter as we lower the speed than it is when we increase it, but the kind of issue I discovered here can actually lead to failure of that little button bearing on the control sheave. It's really weird how that little part is somewhat of a weak link, but if we pay attention to routine maintenance, it shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Love your ear rings Scott!
Thanks! I used to sport only one back in the 80’s.
this is great Scott. Thanks, I enjoyed and benefitted from this.
Glad to hear it! Scott
Hi... Thanks for the video! Have a 52 Greenie with two unusuall issues.... First is the back of the v belt contacts the way tube on operator side. Have tried 3 different belts from different vendors, no change. Positioning of components seems proper.
Second issue is hairline CRAaKS inhousing on both sides of notch belt berrings... Photos would help a bunch....
I suspect that the idler shart eccentric is turned the wrong way. It'll still tighten the upper belt but it may be putting the upper control sheave too close to the front. Sorry to hear about the cracks. You can email me at ScottMarkwood(at)Gmail(dot)com
@@MyGrowthRings Hey Scott,... many thanks for the comments and taking the time to make these great! videos...
I was laughing when you picked up the oil. I use that on my wife's sewing machine, never thought to use it on the SS. The extendable spout is sure handy, Isn't it?
It sure is. You wife clearly has good taste.
I restore vintage sewing machines and use this stuff regularly, including cleaning. I have to store them in a large pill bottle though, the bottles seem to deteriorate and the oil seeps out. Hate finding them empty when I need them.
Great video allot of good info. Could you speak to what different lubes you use where? Graphite, oil, wax. I inherited a greenie and it hasn't seen a lick of maintenance in 50 years more of these please
Sure. I’ll recap I’m the mid-week episode of Stumped.
Excellent video.
Thanks Geno. Scott
Thank you!
You're welcome!
I broke two Shopsmith handle hubs. I have the Shopsmith adjustable magnetic handle. I like it. However, there’s a fellow who produces a better conventional drill press type handle. You might give that a look see.
I know bit of the ones you are talking about. The one that uses the quick release racing steering wheel hub is interesting, but I have a few reservations about it. I’d love to play with one.
This is excellent for checking out my Shopsmith which I just inherited from my father. It is a 1960's vintage (maybe even 1958) one. Can you offer any guidance for replacing the power cord - the sheath on mine is cracked. Any tips or advice to make the task go smoothly.
The power cord is very inexpensive from Shopsmith, though you will have to do a little filing to get the strain relief plug to fit into the motor pan since the new wire will be a bit larger. If you don't already have them you'll want to buy a couple decent files. Buy them at a good hardware store and industrial supplier. I suggest Nicholson. This is one of those times you really need to avoid Harbor Freight at all cost, even if you have a free flashlight coupon! The cord will come with instructions and a template. Just cut it out and trace it with a Sharpie onto the motor pan over the existing wire hole, and file until the entire Sharpie line is gone. The rest is easy, though I like to cromp the strain relief plug with a pare of slip=jaw pliers as I press it in. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the tips. I haven't used my Dad's Shopsmith since I was living at home (40 years ago). So, I am looking forward to getting it up and running again so I can enjoy doing some woodworking again.
My manual says to lub the drive shaft and idle shaft every 10 hrs. How does that work?
The timeline has changed several times over the years and I suspect it’s because SS has more data and we know have more refined oils. It’s also very hard to track “run time”, so more than likely you’ll just want to add oil a couple times a year. Scott
For those who have a Mark V permanently mounted to a wall and used as a stationary dedicated drill press. I've always wondered how well are the sheaves receiving oil when doing maintenance? Especially the upper shaft were the oil hole on the shaft would be below the sheave with the headstock in the vertical position. I suppose you could tilt the headstock down, and everything would be upside down at that point. Perhaps I'm over thinking all of this.
Or you can make sure to drop some oil between the halves of the sheaves. For sure that’s something you’d have to keep in mind. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings That would be about the only option for your buddy with the fabled Mark I.
I have the oldest model of Mark V without any access port under the nameplate. How do I get oil to the upper sheave? Thank you! Rick
That makes things tough. The best way to access it is to remove the belt cover and raise the machine to drill press position and access it from above. It helps to have the headstock located low on the way tubes so that it’s not too high to access. I hope that makes sense. I also guess I need to do a video on this approach because I don’t think I’ve included it in previous videos on lubrication. Scott
Hey Scott I was curious does shopsmith have a factory that someone can tour
They have a factory in Dayton, Ohio, but they rarely offer tours. That said, they are going to have a bit of an open hour later this year that could be worth attending, and it will include tours. Check out the details on the Shopsmith Owner's Facebook group or online on the Shopsmith Forums. Scott
Thanks video just bought one of these with pretty much all accessories..been sitting ten years...one query....am a machinist by trade so wood will be new...would way lube be OK to use or would viscosity be too thick
For what part? The way tubes should only be waxed, otherwise you’ll end up with a sticky mess once you add sawdust. Scott
@MyGrowthRings those two hubs ones that allow the speed variance also the shaft they float on
@@miguelcastaneda7257 Got ya. I can’t see how it would hurt to try, but I would be very cognizant of how much resistance is encountered when raising the spreed, because you don’t want to have the speed control tugging on the small button bearing in the upper control sheave.
@MyGrowthRings k thanks I'll try like said this has been sitting ten years already had two 10ers could pass on mark 5 for 50$
Geoffrey Baker is the handle maker. Looks very good.
Have you used one?
I have not used Geoffrey’s handle. I do se it’s advantages. I have the Shopsmith magnetic various position handle. I like it.
@@johnrice6793 Well, I’ve taken the plunge and will report back.
@@MyGrowthRings
Had it been available when I purchased mine from Shopsmith I believe I’d gone your route. I’m very interested what your report is.
👍👍
@@MyGrowthRings
I’ll add - comparing the newer Shopsmith version to the old - the old is pretty cheesy.
Any insite on building the service jig would be appreciated .or additional pictures ect ..
I doubt I have pictures but you never know. Are you handy with metalwork? Not that it couldn’t be made from wood, but the originals were metal and quite robust.
Yes ,metal would be no problem. Bet we can figure it out and share with all. That's what's it's all about
I'm a little unclear on how to do maintenance on the porkchop. I seem to remember seeing a video where someone sprayed some lubricant on/in the mark V but that seems like other issues could come up if you aren't careful. Do you have a good method to demonstrate how to make sure that it is operating the way it should?
Yes, the reason I didn’t touch on it is because I wanted this video to only address the 25 hour maintenance. The quadrant lubrication is controversial and my even be detrimental. If I lubricate it at all I use a dry lube like Top Coat or Boeshield T-9. If you’d like a heads-up, here’s what I use: amzn.to/32OCnSr I’ll address this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you Scott I appreciate your time.
Probably a dumb question, is it possible to remount the headstock on the way tubes if the wedges aren't aligned properly? Reason asking, I upgraded to the Power Pro headstock. Everything seemed fine when I installed it on the tubes but when I loosen the headstock lock it will make a noise like the wedges are being released under tension, if that makes any sense. The headstock slides along the full length of the tubes just fine and locks in place in vertical mode. Thanks for sharing and producing this channel. This has become my new favorite channel, even over all my watched gun, jeeping and beer making channels. Almost as much fun as watching old SI swimsuit model videos...well maybe not. Curt.
Wow Curt. In the words of Navin R. Johnson from “The Jerk”: “I'd just be happy to be in there somewhere”. I think I understand what you are describing and that’s perfectly normal. Just be sure that the tubes are properly waxed and that you’re not sliding the headstock over the wet wax and you should be fine.
Oh, and no. It isn’t possible to install the headstock with the wedges improperly aligned.
Hi. I'm a Shop Smith newbie. I recently inherited one of these. It was my wife's grandfather's machine and nobody wanted it or knows what it's worth. I had never heard of one but have become quite interested in all things Shop Smith. The machine is located in Wisconsin and I want to bring it to Florida. My question is, can it be easily disassembled? I want to bring it back inside a Jeep. Thank you for your great videos and knowledge.
That’s awesome, Russell! It absolutely can be easily disassembled. I used to travel with mine in the front seat of a Suzuki Samurai! The legs on each end are held in place with five bolts and nuts; just remove the bolts and the legs easily remove. That’s as far down as I would suggest you disassemble it, until you have a little more experience with it. You can remove the tables and anything that is attached to it and those will compact nicely in store away in your jeep. Good luck, and once you have it, checked the channel for some helpful tips. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I sure will. Thank you. The machine didn't come with any tools so what should I bring along to make the appropriate disassemble to run in the Jeep?
I'm only seeing a few hex wrenches in the videos I've watched.
@@rhess10 You’ll need a large flat blade screwdriver and a small adjustable wrench. The hex wrench that you’ll use for several adjustments as a 5/32” wrench, and that will likely come in handy too.
@@MyGrowthRings Outstanding. Thank you.
We're getting closer. My friend is Wisconsin has verified a few things. We've determined that's it's a Mark V. He thinks from the 80s.
Where is the marking plate with serial number/model number located?
Would I need an exact number to locate a manual? And where would I get a manual?
Thanks for any details you could share.
what needs to be done to the Pro Head stock for maintenance
As I mention at 0:27 there isn't much maintenance on the PowerPro at all. For the most part, it's just graphite on the headstock lock and way on the quill and occasionally blow the dust out of it. Scott
The 2x4 is a great idea. Since you broke the quill, will you upgrade it? Appreciate any comments on making a shorty.
The quill is fine, but the quill lever will need to be replaced. I’ll get a stock replacement because I’m so used to it. Do you have an aftermarket quill lever?
No I’ve seen the shopsmith upgrade with 3 handles but haven’t made the switch.
@@daveschmitt6369 I used the three handle version when I worked at SS and it always seemed to be in the way. Their new multi-position lever looks interesting, but it also looks like it hangs way off the side of the headstock. Likewise, there’s a non-Shopsmith multi-position version that utilizes a quick mount bracket from the auto racing industry. It looks interesting and might be excellent for mortising because it is much longer than the stock lever. Like I said, I am so used to the OEM parts that I’m reluctant to change.
@@MyGrowthRings you haven’t responded to my probes about making a Shorty. Is that an insult to a purist like yourself. I work in a one car garage and have two Shopsmith’s with a jointer, band saw, jig saw, belt sander all shopsmith. In addition I have a planer, strip sander and router with jigs and radial arm saw. Converting the second to a shorty means I can make it a power station with all the flexibility of a full shopsmith. If all way tubes are bowed, then it seems that I would need to trim 9 inches off each end? B
@@daveschmitt6369 I don't recall seeing any messages about a shorty, so please forgive the radio silence. Yes, you read me correctly, though I am coming around a bit to your way of thinking. I hat to see a SS being cut-up, but you can always add longer tubes, so it really isn't causing permanent damage. I say go for it. Thanks for helping me through that! Scott
Scott, I have the new MK VII headstock. I have had it for about 6 years and I have noticed that the display fades away as the unit warms up. If I turn it off and let it set for about 30 minutes, the display comes back until warm again. Obviously during the winter it is not as pronounced. Any ideas?
John, it sounds like your headstock may be running a bit warm. I don’t know what the temperature range should be, but I recommend calling Shopsmith. Scott
Just had my 1978 Mark V lock up because the belt jammed in the bottom sleeves. How do you unjam the belt?
When I inherited mine, the belt was locked also. I cut and replaced the belt since it was likely permanently twisted up from being locked in.
I agree with David. Order a new belt and jut the old one off. You'll want to make sure that both sets of sheaves are well oiled and moving smoothly, but it's rare that they don't just snap right back into service. Scott
Are the sealed bearings in the headstock common off the shelf sizes or are they proprietary to shop smith equipment
Yep, they are all commonly available. Great question. Scott
The sheave end of the idler shaft (also powers the jointer spindle) on my 1981 Mark V runs inside a sealed bearing - which is/was a press fit to the shaft. The bearing is fine (not frozen, no resistance) but the idler shaft turns inside the bearing race while the bearing remains still. Sometimes will squeal until I apply silicone or WD40. Someday I may "loctite" this, but haven't yet.
Is this common ?
The bearings themselves are contained within the housing and are covered with a black seal. The seal should be all you can see and it doesn’t rotate with the shaft. Sounds like all is well to me. Scott
I'm a new SS owner and new to the community. The machine I picked up is mid 1980's (I believe) and the way tubes are a little rusty. Do you think I should try to wd40 and 3m, then wax them or just start fresh with new ones? Im going through you videos and Im going to tear it down to clean and lube everything before I try to use it. Your videos are awesome and absolutely necessary to a beginner like me, thanks!!!!
I always try to give the old ones a go. Just makes sure to clean as much of the rust off the tubes as you can before removing or sliding the headstock.
Hey Scott,
Can 3 in 1 machine oil be used in the essential liquid lube areas of the motor that you discuss in this video; e.g., inside and along the motor shaft?
It’s been done and it’s far better than not oiling. Because 3-in-1 contains naphtha and a few other non-lubricating “herbs and spices” I don’t use it for this task. According to the MSDS, the oil I use is 99% “severely refined oil” and 1% distillates. It has never given me concern. Scott
Would you ever teach someone how to work on machinery?
Not anymore. At least not in person outside of my family. I’m just too busy to fit that in.
My Maintenance and Troubleshooting manual is says, " Lubricate the floating sheaves (pulleys) with a good 10w30 non-detergent motor oil", but I see you are using a much lighter oil. Which is correct? Also, I have been using the 10w30 per my manual - should I change over to the lighter oil in the future?
It really depends upon which manual you read as to which oil is recommended. I found a 30 weight oil to be too thick but if you don’t lubricate often, that might be a good choice.
My quill lock wont lock. Can you tell me what I need to do to get it to lock
First off, make sure that we are talking about the knob on the front of the headstock, near the switch. Odds are that it is missing one or more of the washers that go between it and the yoke on the inside of the casting that actually grips the quill. I suggest taking a look at an exploded view and make sure that all the parts are installed.
@@MyGrowthRings yep they are missing
@@TheBart49 Ah ha! Well, they are available from the mother ship as well as from folks who part them out on eBay.
What kinds of oils should I be using?
I acquired a partial Mark 500 over the weekend. It is missing tailstock, tool rest, and the disc arbor. It’s been stored a long time and needs some care but I’m happy to have at least the drill press and table saw functions for now.
Good question and there are several. I covered them in this video: ua-cam.com/video/awESOE8NbfM/v-deo.html BTW, welcome to the Shopsmith family! Those missing parts are easy to find used on eBay or even new from Shopsmith. Scott
can the belts get stretched out so that the piece will stop spinning
What piece? Lathe turning? Yes, the belts can slip but there's a way to tension then. Check your manual. Scott
Very interesting what kind of oil do you recommend
Ron, click on the "show more" link for all the details. Also, there's even more info on other points that need lubrication, check-out this video: ua-cam.com/video/awESOE8NbfM/v-deo.html Scott
Sorry for this long comment;
Hey Scott, I have a couple more questions.
I have a model 500 I believe based on the table/fence system. It has an all aluminum table (without the red insert) but also without the 2nd blade slot. Also with the fence that has no mitre slot and the twist knob only. No round tubes or square extrusion.
I am wondering what upgrades you recommend and if possible what ones I should get first. (Obviously it would depend what functions I use the most.) I have another table saw, so I don't use the table and fence for sawing, at least not currently, but I do use them for drilling, boring, and sanding. I have the jointer and bandsaw for it, which I also use a lot, and then everything else that came stock.
The accessory rack underneath/on the way tubes, is that the one that ShopSmith sells? It looks very useful.
I'm sorry if you covered things I'm asking in previous videos, I'm slowly getting to them all.
I just saw your video about using a Bosch bandsaw blade, and I just wanted to tell you to look at Sawblade.com. They have a great selection of any kind of blade length/TPI you could imagine, they cut really well, I would guess way better than the Bosch you got, and they are pretty cheap for how well they work. You can pick what machine you have, and they guarantee they will fit, or you can choose your own custom size. I obviously picked the ShopSmith, and they fit perfectly. I chose what width, and what TPI I wanted, and they shipped them I believe within 8 days I had them. They have flex back, hard back, and carbide tooth blades, and I'm sure plenty more. I thought you would enjoy the options.
Thanks again, and sorry for the long comment.
Yep, that's a 500 alright. It's an early one too because Shopsmith eliminated the second slot, neat the left side of the table, back in the 1970's. It was handy because you could make wider rip cuts without having to use the extension table, but is wasn't very safe because they lower saw guard, if there even was one, was attached to the table's tie bar, and that was way off to the right when you used that slot. The other issue with it was the table flexed and could even bend under some loads, which as drilling and mortising.
I really like the 510, but if you aren't going to use the table saw much of what it offers won't be useful to you. It still would give you t-slot miter gauge slots, which can be handy for jigs, fixtures and clamps, and the fence is larger and more reliable. The same is true of the 520 table system.
The accessory table on this Mark V was made by the previous owner and it is pretty awful. I like having one on my Mark V, but this one has got to go!
The Bosch blade purchase was a bit of a goof, just to see if it would work in a pinch. I usually have Timber Wolf blades on my bandsaws. I am a member of Izzy Swan's Makers Playground and get a discount from Sawblades.com, but I've not yet been tempted to switch. Perhaps one day I'll give their blades a try.
Thanks for the tip, Scott
Do you have any idea what size the threaded clips that the screws that hold the motor cover on are? a amazon source or a hardware store one would be great. I got a used mark 5 and they were missing.
It kind of depends upon when your machine was made and what size Tinnerman clips were used. Most are #6-32 1/2” long, but if you are adding the motor pan screws I would drive them slowly just to make sure that they aren’t going to drip the threads. Good luck.
Hey Scott, I have been cleaning up my coverted 500 to 510 and it looks like my Dad bought one of the first Mark 5. I have a letter from Shopsmith. Date somewhere between 1955 or 57, i think.
There is no access hole behind the name plate, and I can't seem to find the small oiling hole under the spring of the lower shieve.
Can you help me with lubeing the headstock. Also, the quill springing back like it should but after I waxed it and let it dry, it has become sticky and not moving correctly. Can I oil it and locking mechanism to loosen it up, or should it be removed and cleaned? Help....... Greg
Hey Greg. Yes, when Magna Engineering created the Mark V they somehow forgot that we’d need access to the interior for oiling! To oil the control sheave you need to remove the belt cover and drop the motor pan and oil it from the bottom. Fortunately, this can best be done with the machine in the drill press position, and if you insert your table from the bottom of the carriage your table will be directly underneath the motor pan where it can support the motor. Once that is all open and accessible it’s very easy to apply oil. On the lower sheaves, you simply pull the movable half of the Chiv outward while dropping oil onto the shaft below. It’s awkward, but that’s how it’s done. Thank you for the reminder that I haven’t done a video on this process, so I guess it’s time. Scott
Scott, do you ever sleep? Lol thank you for such a quick response! Wow, it's like just calling you on the Batphone......
What's your thoughts on the issue I have with the quill? Greg
@@gregwilsonnaturephotography Insleep poorly.
@@gregwilsonnaturephotography And yes, remove the quill and clean it and the housing in the headstock. Most likely it has some goopy old way buildup that the solvents in the new wax loosened up.
Do you have to remove the belt if you don't take the headstock off?
I have a mid to late 80s model, the one that the logo pops off like you described. I just got it maybe 2 months ago and I've only used it about 60-90 minutesof run time total so far but that's about to change. I want to make sure everything is good to go. The speed dial is a bit tough to move from fast to slower.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your videos, they've helped me a lot so far. Keep em' comin! 😁
I've waxed it and lubed the band saw because that's what I've used the most but I haven't lubed the headstock itself which I know I should have before using it... I'm not using it again until I lube everything and do anything else I need to.
The belt can be removed with the headstock on the Mark V, but I find it a little tougher to do. Yes, it's always harder to go from fast to slow speed, but oiling will help. Thanks for watching and commenting! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the reply!
Is there anything else you think I should know before I take the belt off? Any special trick to get it back on easier? I'm pretty handy with mechanical stuff usually, but any expert advise is always welcomed.
Also, should I consider replacing the belt? Or is it usually good for a while?
The guy I got it from took care of it from what I can tell, no rust, (minor surface rust only on the jointer blades that came off easily) but not even really any sawdust on the inside of the headstock, and the band saw was nearly spotless inside.
Thank you again, I sincerely enjoy your videos and the knowledge you share with us all.
I have Mark V (approx. 1984 version) . I noticed you covered the motor sheave parts but did not cover how it operates on the shaft. When operating the speed control it does not change speeds, the sheaves do not mesh and leaves the belt very loose. The motor sheaves will not close to the 1/2" it should and hits each other leaving a gap of approx. 1-3/8". I was hoping you would have shown how this assembly is disassembled and reassembled to give me an idea if something slipped, moved or out of alignment. Can you help?
I suspect you have several things going on. In all likelihood you are missing a bearing and a bale that connects to the control sheave. It also sounds like that control sheave may have moved so far that it has left the keyway, which has allowed the sheaves to disengage from one another. I highly recommend seeking out Jacob Anderson’s teardown videos. Scott
Thanks for your thoughts. I will take a look at what you suggested and see how it goes.@@MyGrowthRings
@@elizabethbattistello5254 If I could, I would swing by and take care of it personally!
The quill on my 510 is very stiff until it extends to the point where I can see the groove on top of it. I tried applying paste wax and wiping it off, but there is no change. What else can I try?
Hey Steve. Any chance the the set screw that runs in that groove is set too deep? If not, you might want to remove the quill and clean everything out inside and the teeth on the underside of the quill. Just guesses, but a place to start. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I removed the quill, cleaned it up and reinstalled. Works great, now!
Now for another issue. When I started up my 510 (at slow speed) it ran smoothly, but as I increased speed, it started making a grinding sound as I went halfway to top speed. I took the power plant off as you demonstrated and removed the belt cover so I can rotate the drive manually. I'm getting the sound from near the sheaves. Everything is clean inside the case. Any thoughts?
@@wxman5000 Sounds like a bearing. Most likely the small bearing in the control sheave. Can you observe through the opening in the back of the headstock while it is running to see if that is the source? The idler shaft can also be problematic.
@@wxman5000 Can you tell if the noise is coming from the idler shaft or inside from the control sheave bearing? The old screwdriver to the ear trick can help.
Here's a video of what I mean: ua-cam.com/video/U927cYhQXB4/v-deo.html
Scott, I have a Mark V model 500. I haven't turned it on in about 25 years. It's been in storage. Other than the 25 hour maintenance is there anything else I need to do before I turn it on again. ???? I did the maintenance before I put it away. I haven't located my the manual yet. Thanks, Love your videos.
Clyde
Hey Clyde. I misread what you were saying, thinking it had been 25 years since you had turned (wood) on your Mark V, but now I get it! Welcome back to the shop! I think you will find that it's in pretty good shape. I would suggest turning it on and letting it run with nothing installed on the headstock for 10 minutes or so. That will get the grease in the bearings to loosen up and do its thing. After that run-in, I would pull off the covers and oil the motor sheave and the control sheave. Double-check the belts to make sure that they haven't developed dry rot and you should be good to go. Thanks for watching and commenting and enjoy making sawdust! Scott
Scott thanks for the reply. That's a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. You have a great channel.
@@clydew2357 Thanks and yeah, it's quite a forgiving tool. Scott
Isn't there 3 spots to lubricate?
Not with oil. You can add grease, wax or a dry lube to the rack on the quadrant and or to the worm gear, but they’d not something that needs to be done every 25 hours. There!s even another spot under the dial that some like to add wax. Scott
I just got a rusted mark 7. I no nothing about this machine. I cant get quill to move. Is this due to rust or am i doing somthing wrong
There’s a lot to it. Did you get a manual?
@@MyGrowthRings just got it. Says mark 7. But its older not that power pro deal. If you have email i can send some pictures.
@@Peter-od7op My email address is ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com. The Mark VII was made in the 1960’s while the current version is a “Mark 7”. Yes, it’s pronounced exactly the same, but there are many differences. You should be able to find a copy of not only the owners manual on eBay or on VintageMachinery.com (or is it .org?) and I would also suggest you get a copy of the book “Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone”. There have been several revisions to that book and there is one that covers the Mark VII in detail. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings yes on cd and part ipc. But the manual does not tell you how to remove v belt.
@@Peter-od7op Got ya. If you search Shopsmith.com for “Gilmer belt replacement” they have a pdf that will walk you through the process.
Idler
Hey now! :-)
So I've done this maintenance on my used Mark V (I've had it a couple months), seemed to improved the function a bit, but I have another issue I'm wondering if you have any insight on.
If I manually rotate the quill, there's a slight sandy/gritty kind of feeling (and a sublte creaky noise). I'm thinking this may mean some bearing or another is dying. FWIW the belts look almost brand new (I know someone did some general maintenance on it before I bought it). It's a 510 from 1987. So my question is effectively: Is that normal? Is it a problem with the quill? one of the bearings you mentioned in the Q&A video associated with this video? Is there something I should be doing to get that to turn smoother (it turns, it just feels... a little gritty).
There are three to four bearings running from the til of the quill to the far end of the headstock and any one of those could be bad. I suggest running the machine for a few minutes and then feel the left side of the headstock and extend the quill and feel it to see in any of the bearings are running hot. That's usually an indication that there's a problem. Also, you might want to mount a long drill bit in the drill chuck and see if you can see any wobble in it. Slight noises and a little "graininess" doesn't bother me too much, as long as everything seems to be running true. The bearings are sealed and there's nothing you can do but replace them, and that's actually a pretty easy task. Search UA-cam for "Jacob Anderson" and you'll see that he has several useful videos that address changing bearings. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The suggestion about checking for heat is a really useful one! Thanks!
@@Gwyd13 Hope that gives you the answers you need. Scott