AR-15 - How To Pin Your Gas Block
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- Опубліковано 19 гру 2015
- Everyone asks where I find AR-15 stuff in stock or where I order from, so here you are: bit.ly/2trc7Kg
Pinning your low profile gas block to your barrel on your AR-15 is super easy with the BRD Engineering Gas Block Pinning Jig. I show exactly how to do it in this video.
www.brdengineering.com
My video on dimpling your barrel: • AR-15 - How To Gas Blo...
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A possible word of caution- I pinned an AR10 308 Criterion "Hybrid" barrel and wondered why accuracy was far poorer than the sub MOA Criterion expected. Long story short: After sending the entire upper to them they believe side pinning created a "hot spot" and/or change in barrel harmonics. I was getting 3 MOA with it side pinned and sub MOA after removing it and replacing with a non side pinned block. Much to my shock and pleasant surprise, Criterion sent me a NEW BARREL even though I pinned the first one. The new barrel was simply dimpled as they recommend. Comments and thoughts welcome. Outstanding service by Criterion.
Wow that's outstanding customer service!
Did you use this jig?
I did the exact same thing with my 14.5" Criterion .223 Wylde barrel, though I suffered no loss in the accuracy department. Used a Geissele rail/gas block and sent it to ADCO for a "bomb-proof" installation of the gas block which involves pinning and 2 set screws. I think the biggest thing is to have it done by someone who really knows what they're doing. Can also vouch for Criterions customer service. I have yet to find a better company to do business with in the firearms industry.
Wow, what a great company. Definitely on my list for my next build.
Liar
@@robertsalas3984when metal heats up it expands the thick of a barrel greatly negates this but the area near the bore thats been drilled is obviously thinner which causes that entire effected area to be out a whack with the rest of the barrel. Think of it like driving fast on iced roads and then going over a speedbump. Thats why i just leave it at dimpling.
Seems like a great idea. When I free floated one of my AR's, I kept the A2 front sight/gas block, but I cut the site off and grinded it down, then reinstalled. I know people mention all the time if I wanted to convert it back I couldn't, but I don't plan on converting it back and A2 front sight/gas blocks are easy and cheap to get.
I compliment you sir on your instructional videos. There are many of these videos and I feel yours are second to none. You encouraged me to do my own build. Thanks.
+Stanton Taylor Thank you for the kind words. I am happy to help!
i agree I'm trying this myself small steps but open to learn
nsz85 same for me, I decided to build my first AR15,and by watching you and learning I have built several now.
I would highly recommend using a T handle rather than the drill for reaming for the taper pin after drilling. It is
much easier to keep the taper from going out of concentricity when you do it by hand.
And that is why it has a square top so that it fits a tap handle.
Absolutely......I agree.....ream by hand.....
Even dimpling the gas block robs some accuracy. I have a comp build that is built for accuracy. The set screws on the gb are threadlocked. Thats it. Multiple comps and thousands (4900) of rounds later, no problems, no misfires, jams, etc
I havent noticed. Decrease in axcuracy after I dimpled my barrel.
Great vid! You helped me when I started building and I have referenced your vids to friends countless times. always great, thanks!
+rickholloway1000 You are welcome!
Great Vid Sir I have notice on many builds how the gas block never lines up on most builds! Great fix for this problem.
Clear (in HD!), concise and just what I was looking for. Thank you!!
your vids are awesome. I like how you show people how to do basic mods with regular tools.
+tanakattack Thanks! I am glad you like them.
BRD makes some nice tools, and good instruction as always. I pointed a friend of mine to your channel...he's just getting started in the AR world.
+Daniel Stein Very cool. Thanks for doing that!
I have the same taper jig and it works great......I have the benefit of using a drill press......I have a different style jig also which lets you pin using a coil pin the same size as the forward assist pin which works awesome also......About the money spent on both when all tools are purchased......I know if you're building more then 2-3 AR uppers it's totally worth the money to do it yourself......Great video.....
Totally agree with Stanton. You are the consummate overachiever that makes me feel like a slacker. I dimpled (didn't use a jig- any guesses what happened? Lol). Great vid. Too late for me. I was able to straighten it out, but I'd go your route or NOT mess with the barrel. I Wonder how it affects the harmonics???
Great video. Does the drill create a notch in the barrel? If you have an A2 front sight already can you just buy a low profile gas block designed to be pinned for an easier install?
So cool to see that BRD is from Grand Rapids! So cool to see another Minnesota company making parts/tools for AR's!
Great video as always
+Stebolicious I know! I always enjoy supporting local companies!
BRDE is basically my workbench. 😁
Great ,very informative & helpful video Nate, in behalf of all your subscribers ,thanks and merry Christmas !!!
+rupert gumban Thank you and Merry Christmas to you as well!
I used to always pin my blocks. When i got into 3 gun and started using clamp on adjustable blocks I didnt pin those. As the years went by and i put thousands of rounds thru my 3 gun rigs in comps, classes and practice I never had a single problem with the GB moving, I started to think it was just overkill. I can def understand it for peace of mind and confidence though.
I used blue loctite one time, and loctite spread behind crevices of the gas block due to my over excessive use, and it pinned it so hard, I had to use the hammer to remove the gas block, and that's after heating it up with blow torch for good minute. Yet it didn't work, I had to put my upper (without BCG) into the oven at 350 F. Well...then I finally got it off.
Don't overthink it, don't use too much loctite, but I would dimple the barrel for safety, as I did. But that will likely void your warranty. So yeah.
thank youCris!!!
@@righteousone8454 How much loctite did you use and Where'd you apply it? I ask because I removed one setscrew from the one that's dimpled, from a complete upper I bought, then put loctite on the screw and reinstalled it. Am I anywhere near what you did?
Well done and really solid, relevant content.
Nice straight forward clear and very informative, thanks for the great video.
You are welcome :-)
Thanks Nsz85. If I change a gas block to a low profile will I be able to pin it? It's pinned back the factory, but I'm not sure if the hole would be in the same spot. Any advise?
I wonder what the advantage/disadvantages with a taper pin vs a roll pin. If I remember correctly, the M16 had roll pins on the gas block.
Thanks NSZ. A lot of good info in your videos
Question: I just ordered an upper that has a pinned low profile gas block DI system that I plan on swapping out for a low profile gas piston system. Manufacture says OK to swap out, but doesn't recommend pinning new gas block on barrel since barrel has already been pinned. Is it OK to pin a barrel twice from different gas blocks? Thank you
I'd like to to do this on my barrel, but my barrel is nitride treated. I had a hell of a time even getting it dimpled using BRD's dimple jig. To give you an idea how hard nitriding is, I wore a cobalt bit out against it before I got even a quarter of one dimple formed. The barrel *laughed* at regular steel drill bits. Regular steel bits, you might as well have been drilling with tissue paper.
In the end, I had to get a carbide tipped bit from MSC industrial, and even then it was not easy. I shudder to think about trying this on that barrel.
jamesp81 nitriding is just a surface treatment of the steel where nitrogen is introduced to the molecular structure of the steel. Once you break through the surface it's unhardened for the most part and should be easy to drill
Its getting through the surface thats the bear. Once you break through, its time for a new bit.
Cobalt drill after knocking the nitride coating off with a ziz-wheel. Works every time, no prob...
P.S.: make sure it's a SHARP drill bit
Built a few ARs, never pinned a gas block. The one I'm working on now is for the purpose of "SHTF" prepping. I want it to be a very reliable rifle. I bought a carbon fiber barrel to reduce heat if I need to throw out a high volume of rounds, however I also would like to pin the gas block. Is there a way I can assure that this jig would work to pin the gas block in my specific barrel? I'm unsure if pinning even works with carbon fiber, as not many people ever use them in videos.
absolutely perfect. so glad I found this video
How much did you have to give for the gas block jig? I've been really wanting to pin some of mine but I'm scared to death I'll ruin my barrel, but with your video showcasing this jig makes me feel much more comfortable with the idea. Awesome video, any information would be greatly appreciated 👍
What size is the drill bit you used to drill the hole onto the gas block? Thank you.
Did you have your barrel nut on already? Also did can you see if your going between the set screws?
Great video. Your instruction videos have helped me many times over the years. Does BRD engineering make a jig for the DD MK12 gas block?
Yes they do it's a 2E pro gas block jig E (0.750 daniel defense mk12
Good video, looking at doing mine. Was this one never pinned? I'm wanting to remove my A2 gas block and replace it with a low profile.
Would there be any issues doing this with a .625 barrel?
Did you use the 2/0 reamer with the 5/8" or 3/4" length taper pins?
great videos, one of the best I've seen.thanks
+docken dodson Awesome! I am glad you enjoyed it.
So I’m about to do this and i have a question...after you reemed it and tapped the pin through,to me it looks like it went in way too easy.i thought I would need to tap it in and it have a much more tight fit,so it’s less likely to come out.you being able to just drop the pin in 3/4ths of the way seemed off.am I wrong? Or should it be exactly how you demonstrated?...thanks
SLR 762
It's a taper pin, with a taper, not uniform dimension across length of pin.
Your vids are top notch keep it up and thank you.
+Coy Collins Thanks!
Reamed slightly too deeply, but still effective. Good instructional video. I build these for a living and this is bar none a constantly overlooked yet ultra-important step in creating a reliable AR15. Good video, sir.
Should the pin be flush with the freshly-reamed hole on the other side (the opposite side of the one he's drilling from in this video) when you start to hammer the pin in?
Der Fliegende Holländer
It's relatively inconsequential regarding the pin starting position, so long as it's driven in an appropriate depth to engage the taper fully. That can only be gauged by the installer. Hard to see in a video.
Some systems use self locking roll pins and can be equally as effective. Easier to drill for, too.
Well done and quite timely...
another great tutorial
Do you use thread locker on the set screws?
+nsz85 it looked like it didnt take very much to tap the pin in. i just orderedmy jigs and everything and plan on doing this myself this week. i was wondering if the taper pin fit tightly enough.and if it help up for you
Colton Dunn I was thinking the same thing. Just don't go so big with the taper bit. And it will fit tighter. And it will take a lot more pressure taps to seat the pin.
Great video ! Thanks for posting
I don't plan on doing this, but still enjoyed watching the presentation.
Not sure what the instructions say, but I'd want a good bit more interference than that. I think you reamed the hole a tiny bit too big. If you don't have it pinned pretty tight, there's not much advantage over a set screw block.
Another excellent NSZ85 video! Easily the best AR build content on YT!
Hey I just got a dd barrel with a pinned gas block but it has no set screws do I just tap the pin all the way threw? Thanks
I wonder how an end mill would work instead of the standard 118 drill bit. The jig wouldn't even be needed as it is used to prevent the bit from flexing after contacting the angled surface of the gas block. I would think after repeated use of the jig, the guiding hole would get egged out from the bit flexing slightly after contacting the gas block surface.
An end mill will work. But why mot just drill and tap for to more set screws. My delton has four. from the factory
Is this process good for all gas blocks? Or only certain ones?
Great stuff.
New subscriber and big fan sir
Is this really necessary on a block that has set screws?
Great information thanks for posting.
Maybe late, but does the tool work for .750 as well as .625 blocks?
Great knowledge thank you!!
I shoot a bit but have never pinned any gas block what are the benefits to a pinned gas block I have a daniel defense mk12 barrel with a vltor clamp on low profile gas block
Nice video. Well done.
So, what is the general consensus?
Clearly the pin adds additional stability,
but if dimple work is done well, and set screws are torqued to spec,
is a pin really needed?
Thanks.
If it's your SHTF rifle then its insurance. Honestly you should be behind a bolt action .308 or better if SHTF.
@@johnonthecooldoe6338 a bolt action .308 in a SHTF situation? This is the most Fudd thing I've read lately.
I’m not a gunsmith, let me get that out there. I asked Aero Precision if I needed to locktite their gas blocks screws and was told, no. Just torque them to 25 inch pounds and it would not move. So watching this video, I’m wondering if this is solving a problem that doesn’t exist.
Not a gunsmith either but I would have to agree. Seems like everyone from Leupold, Trijicon, Aero, Benelli, etc. People dealing with stuff fastened on high recoil type things, including very precision oriented devices like scopes. All say just use the proper torque and you're good to go. No need for Loctite or extra drilling etc. And to be honest, I'd rather have my 80 dollar FAT wrench, or a torque bar for the heavier things, and just check from time to time and make sure everything is tight. Preferable to drilling into my $600 barrel, or stripping Loctited screws in my RDS/Scope. Then either paying a gunsmith, or doing it myself, using a drill to other expensive parts of my gun like Leupold DPP or an equally expensive receiver.
@@lordofentropyWhich is why Trijicon attaches the TA51 mount to their ACOGs with red loctited screws from the factory, right? Because it’s “not necessary.”
Seems pretty hypocritical of them
If you over ream the hole you could always just crush the pin in place so it can't back out like a rivet.
Excellent video
+Albert Ortiz Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. Can one use a roll pin(spring pin) instead of a taper pin?
You *can* but it’s such a weak way to attach gas blocks that you might as well not even drill it.
what was the coast for BRD gas block dimple ,pin,&bits kit. Your was vid was perfect I liked it a lot thanks.
Check the website for pricing.
+Coy Collins Rainier has the jigs in stock. I will have more inventory in early 2016
Would this affect accuracy in any way? I'm using a wilson combat stainless barrel which regularly gets .5 MOA groups. I want the security of a pinned block, but I don't want to mess up that accuracy.
BigYeet If it’s a precision rig, it will probably never see volumes of fire high enough to the point where you’d see a difference
BigYeet, in your case consider just staking the set screws in place with a spring loaded punch. Probably the best of both worlds for you. Makes your block more secure without the variable of a pin.
Will this work with an aero gas block? Or a .625 bcm gas block?
great demo.
Thanks...
+RhinoCable Sure thing!
Why do people have to be negative. Thanks for the video. Would be the same process for an A2 front sight and gas block?
Always use a drill press ... When drilling metal always drill slow ... ream only after checking the pin fit ... This was over reamed, the set screws are doing all the work
Are you drilling just through the gas block or is it also going through outer part of the barrel? I know not through the bore cause that would be bad lol
The drilling makes a notch on the barrel.
Some people have commented on the necessity of not needing to pin a gas block. For most people, no it's not a "necessity". That's because most folks don't shoot their AR's much and many AR's are used for ranges, plinking, or hunting and not primarily for self-defense or hard life and death uses. When problems start happening with gas blocks is usually when a rifle gets ran hard. It gets HOT at the gas block and this causes a couple of problems. 1. Threadlocker is destroyed with enough heat. 2. With no threadlocker, the screws to work loose and the gas block to shift...and then you have a single shot rifle. Dimpling the barrel helps (delays significantly) but does not eliminate the problem. Real-world and hard-won experience with the M-series platform has shown that the taper pin method is extremely reliable. A good roll pin is also likely very reliable and I suppose that you could peen the threads on the set screws and that would help...but we KNOW that the taper pin method works. Which way you want to build/maintain your rifle/carbine is ultimately up to you but I know which I trust when my family's life is on the line.
That hand drill is walking all over the place and so are his tolerances and alignment/straightness. If you are going to do something like this you need to have and use a vertical mill or drill press. Otherwise he would have been far better simply dimpling the barrel for the set screws with a jig and staking the the set screws. No way is that going to come loose or walk off. Every mallninja claims otherwise though and have the scenario dreamed up in there heads. If you carelessly throw your weapon around or drop it, you probably won't live very long in a gunfight anyway. Get ran hard....like countless mag dumps? I try to end the fight with as few rounds as possible or a single fired very accurate, well placed shot. If you are in a situation where you are dumping magazine and after magazine you need to step up your game on your accuracy. You can't shoot for shit....obvious by that 1,500 round carbine course you have signed up for and taken. The winner in a gunfight is the first person who produces lethal hits.
"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything!" ~ Wyatt Earp
@John Doe That's an interesting position. While I think that people shouldn't purposefully drop kick their rifles, I have had to drag an M4/GAU-5 for work and crap happens. They get banged around, fall over, and get used as a landing crutch when people get prone in a hurry. People get sloppy when they are tired, hot, stressed, and sweating.
I agree that he should use a drill press or at least a simple jig to keep his holes aligned and I did say that dimpling and staking, mostly staking, helps a lot. But the VAST majority of people, including many gunsmiths, think a little loctite is enough and don't peen (stake) their gas blocks. Once a rifle exceeds a slow firing pace this deficiency becomes apparent. As far as not running a rifle hard...that's a stupid comment that makes assumptions that I'm unwilling to abide by. First, nobody is talking about mag dumps, though that will certainly show deficiencies. I am personally unwilling to trust lives to a rifle that hasn't been thoroughly tested in circumstances that reasonably simulate a firefight even if that scenario is highly unlikely. And to bash people for taking good training classes is just willfully ignorant. If accuracy is king... fast repeatable practiced accuracy is imperial and the only way to get that is to get training and to practice.
Your statements, other than about the tooling, are impractical and generally disproven by data collected by the FBI and military. Shootouts are rarely at long ranges outside of the military and they generally have a higher than seems reasonable round count. They certainly don't conform with your ideas of being some kind of stalwart six-shooting accuracy master while under stress...but I'm sure that you'll be the exception. Have a nice day. 🙂
@@derrick9653
Mallninjas beat the shit out of their weapons. Military and Law Enforcement doesn't.
ua-cam.com/video/nMfq7vDZBd0/v-deo.html
that is the way i like doing mine.
how is that hiperfire 24c trigger working out and could you hook me up with one to try out!
thank my friend, mike
+gilliland426 No. I cannot "hook you up."
+nsz85 😂
Lol. Nice ar, could you hook me up with one to try.
Will this work with a 0.625" diameter gas block / gas journal?
+jamesp81 He makes a jig for .625
Your the man
Have you ever tried using an end mill to start your hole and then drilling?
I don't know what an end mill is.
Not needed for a job this small & easy.
Does anyone ever thread that hole and use a bolt instead of using a pressure fit pin?
You should really ream it by hand.
That’s what she said.
Why is that?
@@zxtuner4lyfe because it's very easy to go to far.
@@Adam-su2jj thanks man. Im doing mine now. Doing it by hand but it takes forever
@@zxtuner4lyfe no problem
I'm new at this, but wouldn't you pin the gas block OR dimple the gas block? With the dimples the only way for the block to twist or slide on the barrel would be if both screws loosened and backed out of the dimples. I don't see that happening if they have been loctited properly. Am I missing something?
+Rendall Hostetler Its a fail-safe. There is nothing negative nor is there a downside to doing both.
+nsz85 thanks
Next: What to do when you’ve reamed too much!!! Coming soon😊😂
Thank you.
Correct me if I'm wrong and I've heard this from accuracy gurus pinning hurts barrel harmonics which in turn hurts accuracy to some degree no? Same reason people go free float hardguard. If that's true doesn't doing this kinda go against the idea of an spr build? I wouldn't have pinned it. On a go to rifle for ITEOTWAWKI sure but not a paper puncher. Nice tutorial either way though. I liked the dimpling one. I thought doing that was more involved.
betatalk357 psshhhh iirc military m4s supplied by fn if I'm not mistaken... only need to be 3 moa capable at a 100 yards to pass quality. Not to mention chrome lining also affects accuracy. U won't find any high precision rifle with a non free float guard, chrome lined barrel and a pinned gas block if it's DI and not bolt action. Just because military m4s have doesn't mean it's just as accurate and unpinned. They're also chrome lined that's a big no no if you're aiming for sub moa accuracy which the military DOESNT on a m4
+nemisans13 This is a picture of a Bravo Company SPR Mk12Mod1 - Notice the gas block. i.imgur.com/1TVDaTS.jpg
+nemisans13 the mk12 is not pinned.
+John K depends which one you get. The MK12 was done quickly to fill a gap in the Arsenal. There is quite a bit of variation between different MK12s.
You see the same thing right now in some of the M24s. You may have one that's all stock in 7.62x51 and another that The only original part is the receiver, in 300 WinMag.
The last one I was issued was in .300 wm. It had a Mcmillan stock, had a new aftermarket barrel, and an after market scope replacing the Leopold.
+nemisans13 Doesn't harmonics have to do with repeatability? A pinned gas block wouldn't affect that. If you had a target crowned barrel then I guess I wouldn't pin a gas block. I really doubt it affects accuracy.
where does 1 get a extra pin
Why would you make the hole bigger so there’s bearly any surface area keeping the pin in place, doesn’t seem very affective
How do u know how deep it should be?
OK, I'm a newbie and confused. (Doing a new build.) Isn't this a little overkill? How the hell is the gas block going to move after it's been dimpled?
No need to do both, dimple and some thread locker on the set screws and good to go.
And Another one!
+SHWELL11 ;-)
Jeebus, could you be *more* fixated on the gas block?
Maybe you could put a roll pin through the taper pin. And and then put a taper pin into that roll pin. Just in case.
Rookie build question: is this necessary or just an extra step for installing the gas block?
Just an extra step. It makes a low profile gas block as solid as possible.
Thanks. I contacted the company and they essentially said the same thing, that it isn't necessary. I have a pretty good view of the gas block through the hand guard. I can keep an eye if it starts to migrate.
thank you
Ream needs cutting oil...
I'm going to be doing this to both of my sionics uppers my OCD won't let me rely on set screws I don't care what they say lol
How did yours turn out? I want to do this too, but I'm nervous.
Those screws are far stronger than your weak tapping in the pin, that pin can be pushed out with toothpick.
9
thought the same thing. if he goes to an outdoor range the pin may just float away in the breeze
What keeps the pin from popping back out?
John S he drilled to much, save yourself the headache and just buy uppers or guns with already pinned gas blocks, I have the geissele urgi upper and love it
A taper pin provides what's called an "interference" fit. It's just like a clutch on a snowmobile(with a tapered crankshaft). I've seen them lose a clutch retaining bolt and stay on for miles. Even had them come in for service with a missing bolt and the guy never knew it...
That massive recoil from 556, I'm glad you did that bc wow it will send that block flying. 🤣
It’s the constant vibrations from the cycling and the heat of the gas block from firing that cause the set screws to loosen.
Sweet
I've only purchased, not pinned my own barrels...that pin although technically pinned, was a bit loose I thaught. But there are no videos addressing any issues so I assume it's fine? 🤷
Do not attempt this with a nitride coated barrel, the coating is too hard for the drill and the reamer to cut. I had to use a solid carbide endmill to make a hole in mine and used 3/32 roll pin. Did it on a milling machine , no jig was necessary. I have 40 years experience in maching
Nitride is NOT a coating. It is a form of heat treating which hardens the surface a few thousandths.
@@richstone2627 regardless the barrel is too hard for standard high speed drills and reamers
I can vouch for not trying to drill nitrided barrels . Regular drill bits won't even cut it.
Rockwell hardness is up to around 70-75. You need to use a carbide bit.
Did you remove the two set screws?
+NebulousCat No.
+nsz85 I pinned my gas block and then removed the set screws. I don't see what purpose they serve.
+NebulousCat They aren't the required for the gas block to be secure but there are a few reasons you may want to keep them there.
1) aesthetics
2) to prevent dirt from getting into those holes
3) to cover the exposed metal dimples and protect from corrosion
4)peace of mind that you have a pin and 2 dimples holding that sucker on there. haha
How to remove it? Or am I stuck with this barrel/rail.....
What is the purpose of this operation ? Pray tell.
Don't they sell gas blocks that uses the existing barrel notches that had A2 front sights? I see a lot of DIY to the stock blocks but haven't found any blocks that uses the existing notches. Just wondering?
I have a question for you my 10.5 ar gas block is leaking or releases gas from the gas tube pin is that normal???
Perfectly normal. It will carbon seal itself
Why does the gas block need to be pinned if using set screws?
Edward Piroska make sure that puppy is on for good!
It doesn't. This is a commercial to sell you stuff you don't need.
Wow, dimpled AND pinned. Nice. But I was wishing you would have zoomed out to show us that you were wearing a belt... AND suspenders.
Good thing he has the dimples because that pin he installed isn’t doing anything.
My personal favorite is to do a job without proper tools, it makes it so much more challenging fun. 😠