The only place I ever use thread locking compound is the gas block screws. It sometimes necessitates using some heat to soften it up for disassembly but totally worth it.
Excellent explanation and illustration of pinning the gas block. Seeing the machining on the barrel for the set screws and pin is really helpful. Thanks!
Great video - as always man! Very informative, great camera angles, and you explain WHY certain techniques are better - which satisfies my inquisitive brain-thing 🤣 Appreciate you brudda!!
Speechless. A room full of engineers could not have come up with a simpler idea. And edible as well. No waste. Easy on the planet. And to think I bought a couple of sets of UT aligner tools (small parts may be a choking hazard! LMAO).
I wish BCM pinned their low profile gas blocks (or at least offered the option). They told me that they have never had one single one of their gas blocks come lose. But they only use one dimple, not two. I’ve been thinking about buying they jig to pin it myself. Do you think I should do that?
Brad Steele I pin all of my serious use rifles and feel it’s the most secure. BCM uses high temp thread locker and no doubt that works very well. If your block is secured well and under a hand guard one could argue that it probably isn’t needed to be pinned. But pinning would only make it even more secure. Ultimately up to you -Dave
Brad Steele Ballistic Advantage offers gas block pinning. I’ve had really good results with my BA barrels in terms of accuracy. Even more accurate than the two BCM barrels I have. For my CHF, I use DD and dimple the barrel with a kit I got from....PRI I think. Maybe it was SLR, but allows me to dimple the barrel where the GB screws can seat into the dimple. Works well.
then I come across a manufacture that says they don't need to pin that the set screw is sufficient, and they are charging prices as much as companies with pinned gas blocks. One company used ONE set screw and no barrel dimple and CLAIM no issues. Well Igues for a range toy that gets rare use that may be the case but for a Duty - SHTF your life depends on it I will never use just a set screwed gas block. more than one professional trainer has commented on set screws loosening during extensive training classes.
Great video! I have a bushmaster AR15 ORC and want to change out the gas block with one that I can add an iron sight. Any suggestions for a particular gas block? And I have worked in a machine shop for 40 years and sounds fairly simple drilling and reaming for the tapered pin. Where is this reamer available for purchase? And when I seat the tapered pin, should it be even on both sides of the gas block? If I need to add a second dimple for the second set screw, what is the drill point angle? Standard center drill point? Or? Thanks in advance! My name is Ken
It depends on the size of the screw used, check with the maker of the gas block first. However likely going to be around 10 in lbs for most 6-32 sized screws
Thanks for the vid! What is the proper torque for the different set screws? Is it different, depending on whether the barrel is dimpled? Are set screw sizes standardized across gas blocks?
Most people use Rocksett or Loctite 2422. Some go with 271 but it is overkill and doesn’t have the high temp rating of either of the previous I mentioned.
Question.. so I ordered a barrel from compass lake and I sent them my geissele gas block to pin onto the barrel. But now I just realized that my geissele barrel nut will not fit over the geissele gas block. Will I be able to slide the barrel nut on from the barrel extension side? And then install the barrel extension into the upper receiver.
Okay thanks.. does the geissele spiral coil pin punch out easy? Then i assume i can punch it right back in? I know some tapered pins you punch out on the small hole side but I’m not sure if the geissele is different.
Newb question, is gas hole same spot on every 16" barrels? Could you swap a low profile and a A2/vice versa? Or once you drill, that decides because you wouldn't spot weld to re drill a rifle barrel because it would damage rifling or be un safe? Hey thanks Trying to get better understanding.
The Gasport could be located in a different spot depending on the length of the gas system so unfortunately it is not just as easy as swapping back-and-forth. Once a gas block or front site post is drilled in pinned to the barrel those two should really remain married if that makes sense sense
@@GunsandTacticsShould've just buy complete upper, I guess I was just being cheap but end up spending way more in friggin special tools.🤪 They are both "mid length"
If you dimple the first hole and rocksett that set screw you'll be fine. If your rifle gets jacked around enough that it loosens after that, you've probably already messed up something else critical.
Famous last words lol, I’ve seen a lot of gas blocks come loose. Also if you’re going to use thread locker on those screws use red high heat vs rocksett. Makes removal far easier.
@@adamg574 Loctite 263 is only good to 360F (182 Celsius). Your barrel gets hotter than that unless you are doing low volume shooting. It would be fine if you are just doing casual range time but if you are putting a silencer on a QD muzzle device, Loctite 263 is a horrible choice. Rocksett is the correct choice, don't listen to this guy.
If it’s a factory low profile gas block, one should be sufficient. If you’re cutting down a front sight base I would definitely reuse both taper pins you took out of it.
This question may be dumb... but if I have an AR15 with a low-profile gas block, and I want to swap my cheap factory installed free float handguard with a better FF handguard, do I need a new gas block? Thanks for any help!
I thought the same about the tapered pin at first, but figured the block itself would stop the pin before it distorted the inside of the barrel. Nice work!
Thanks! I just ordered one for my .308 build. Looking forward to more videos! You do a great job. I love the details and just your general approach. Keep up the great work!
GUNS & TACTICS Gotcha lol well mine only shot once, had to charge it every time for a shot, I almost sent it back to the factory before I noticed 2 screws missing from underneath the gas block
How much did you eat into your barrel after you touched off the edge of the barrel (with your mill)? I keep watching all of these "pin your gas block" videos, but no one ever gives a measurement on how they chose the placement of the drill hole?
@@GunsandTactics I have an aero precision OEM and I need to remove it in order to put a new barrel nut and handguard on. The current tools I have now don't fit
Many do sell with a dimple but its always best to check as things change. Additionally having a good gunsmith or armorer secure a gas block isn't that much money. -Dave
Great video helped a lot! How do you feel about clamp on gas blocks?? I’m fairly new so pinning and dimpling is new to me and don’t want to mess anything up lol
Some say use only 33MS grease on barrel to upper receiver connection, some say any universal gun grease, some say anti-seize lube and then some say no grease. Some say Loctite blue and some say Loctite red. Some say one dimple OK, some say two dimples, some say two dimples and a set pin. Some say 30lbs on barrel nut, some say 40lbs, some say 50lbs or more. Some say forward assist, and some say no forward assist. Somewhere in between it's all good, as long as you aren't cross-threading and or misaligning things it'll function.
@@GunsandTactics No, thank you though. Just like you don't openly give out the manufacturers of the barrels because people's head would explode, I was really just referencing how no matter the procedure anyone follows it is met with, "my way is better". Your videos are informative and well made, thanks for that too.
If gas block shifting is such an industry issue why on earth don't barrel manufacturers just dimple and/or pin the barrels when you order them. I was in the service for 23 years and our issued M-16 didn't seem to hve these issues....hmmmm
@@GunsandTactics ha...I get that but most barrel companies don't offer pinning or putting dimples in for bas blocks. For example....Midway I bought the faxon barrel and an adjustable gas block from them... They don't offer either solutions you showed in the video.. kinda frustrating
I agree. Most companies leave it up to the end user and most don’t know how to properly secure a block. I’m hoping to get good info out there to folks.
Yes but then removal would be difficult. If pinning isn't an option, dimple with proper screws and red heat resistant thread locking compound would be my recommendation -Dave
The only place I ever use thread locking compound is the gas block screws.
It sometimes necessitates using some heat to soften it up for disassembly but totally worth it.
Excellent explanation and illustration of pinning the gas block. Seeing the machining on the barrel for the set screws and pin is really helpful. Thanks!
Like your videos. 👍Any recommendations for a low profile gas block taper jig?
thank you good sir on the tip.
Congrats on all the lost weight! Great job. That is not easy to do at all. Love your channel, only wish there was more. More vids on tools please.
+Hytekrednek Bama any tools in particular, we did a tool series on the old channel and certainly could bring that back.
Dude you have lost a ton of weight. Good job!
Thanks
any thoughts on using a roll pin instead of the tapered pin?
More companies are using roll or spring pins now, no issues
Do you have to remove the gas block to change the barrel nut?
Great video - as always man! Very informative, great camera angles, and you explain WHY certain techniques are better - which satisfies my inquisitive brain-thing 🤣 Appreciate you brudda!!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching
Speechless. A room full of engineers could not have come up with a simpler idea. And edible as well. No waste. Easy on the planet. And to think I bought a couple of sets of UT aligner tools (small parts may be a choking hazard! LMAO).
Glad you liked it
Great info. Thank u
Excellent video ! Thanks for posting !
Thanks!
Great video hope you are still doing well!
i like to cut down the original FSB to go under FFHG due to the strength of the pins plus it saves a few sheckles ;-)
Always a good option
I wish BCM pinned their low profile gas blocks (or at least offered the option). They told me that they have never had one single one of their gas blocks come lose. But they only use one dimple, not two. I’ve been thinking about buying they jig to pin it myself. Do you think I should do that?
Brad Steele I pin all of my serious use rifles and feel it’s the most secure. BCM uses high temp thread locker and no doubt that works very well. If your block is secured well and under a hand guard one could argue that it probably isn’t needed to be pinned. But pinning would only make it even more secure. Ultimately up to you -Dave
Brad Steele Ballistic Advantage offers gas block pinning. I’ve had really good results with my BA barrels in terms of accuracy. Even more accurate than the two BCM
barrels I have. For my CHF, I use DD and dimple the barrel with a kit I got from....PRI I think. Maybe it was SLR, but allows me to dimple the barrel where the GB screws can seat into the dimple. Works well.
then I come across a manufacture that says they don't need to pin that the set screw is sufficient, and they are charging prices as much as companies with pinned gas blocks. One company used ONE set screw and no barrel dimple and CLAIM no issues. Well Igues for a range toy that gets rare use that may be the case but for a Duty - SHTF your life depends on it I will never use just a set screwed gas block. more than one professional trainer has commented on set screws loosening during extensive training classes.
Great video! I have a bushmaster AR15 ORC and want to change out the gas block with one that I can add an iron sight. Any suggestions for a particular gas block? And I have worked in a machine shop for 40 years and sounds fairly simple drilling and reaming for the tapered pin. Where is this reamer available for purchase? And when I seat the tapered pin, should it be even on both sides of the gas block? If I need to add a second dimple for the second set screw, what is the drill point angle? Standard center drill point? Or? Thanks in advance! My name is Ken
Probably better off upgrading to a free float rail hand guard with a top rail truthfully. That will allow sight mounting and free float barrel
@@GunsandTactics Thanks! That is probably the way I go then.
Would it be OK to put a spot of weld to hold the pin in?
Not needed with a properly installed taper pin. Dont do that, put the welder down
What’s the torque set to on the gas block screw?
It depends on the size of the screw used, check with the maker of the gas block first. However likely going to be around 10 in lbs for most 6-32 sized screws
@@GunsandTactics thank you
Thanks for the vid! What is the proper torque for the different set screws? Is it different, depending on whether the barrel is dimpled? Are set screw sizes standardized across gas blocks?
What website do your use to order the high quality set screws that have teeth ?
McMaster carr is usually my go to
@@GunsandTactics Thank you.
Thank you!
What type of thread lock or brand should I use? 🐢🇺🇸🐢🇺🇸🐢🇺🇸
Most people use Rocksett or Loctite 2422. Some go with 271 but it is overkill and doesn’t have the high temp rating of either of the previous I mentioned.
Question.. so I ordered a barrel from compass lake and I sent them my geissele gas block to pin onto the barrel. But now I just realized that my geissele barrel nut will not fit over the geissele gas block. Will I be able to slide the barrel nut on from the barrel extension side? And then install the barrel extension into the upper receiver.
No, you’ll have to remove the gas block to install the barrel nut
Okay thanks.. does the geissele spiral coil pin punch out easy? Then i assume i can punch it right back in? I know some tapered pins you punch out on the small hole side but I’m not sure if the geissele is different.
The coil pin comes out pretty easily. Check the screws for threadlocker but shouldn’t be too hard
Newb question, is gas hole same spot on every 16" barrels? Could you swap a low profile and a A2/vice versa? Or once you drill, that decides because you wouldn't spot weld to re drill a rifle barrel because it would damage rifling or be un safe? Hey thanks Trying to get better understanding.
The Gasport could be located in a different spot depending on the length of the gas system so unfortunately it is not just as easy as swapping back-and-forth. Once a gas block or front site post is drilled in pinned to the barrel those two should really remain married if that makes sense sense
@@GunsandTacticsShould've just buy complete upper, I guess I was just being cheap but end up spending way more in friggin special tools.🤪 They are both "mid length"
If you dimple the first hole and rocksett that set screw you'll be fine. If your rifle gets jacked around enough that it loosens after that, you've probably already messed up something else critical.
Famous last words lol, I’ve seen a lot of gas blocks come loose. Also if you’re going to use thread locker on those screws use red high heat vs rocksett. Makes removal far easier.
@@GunsandTactics red loctite instead of rocksett you mean?
Yes red 263
@@adamg574 Loctite 263 is only good to 360F (182 Celsius). Your barrel gets hotter than that unless you are doing low volume shooting. It would be fine if you are just doing casual range time but if you are putting a silencer on a QD muzzle device, Loctite 263 is a horrible choice. Rocksett is the correct choice, don't listen to this guy.
@@JenkinsStevenD how would you remove the gas block if you had to?
My Ballistic Advantage barrel came without dimples where can I get that tool to add dimples
KVP Dimple Jig is a widely available and affordable option.
Dang! How'd you lose the weight if you don't mind me asking?
Eating a lot less and trying to make some lifestyle changes. Thanks for noticing -Dave
@@GunsandTactics Dang it, eating less!? Why does it always have to be that?...
What’s torque value for the sets screws that go with the low profile gas block ????
Check with manufacturer of the gas block for best info. Can very from block to block
GUNS & TACTICS thanks for the fast response! I have learned a lot from your videos 🇺🇸💪🏼👍🏼.
Glad to hear it. Thank you for watching
is one pin on the gas block enough or two pins is better ?!
If it’s a factory low profile gas block, one should be sufficient.
If you’re cutting down a front sight base I would definitely reuse both taper pins you took out of it.
What do you torque the set screws to? I can’t find that info anywhere
Search online for screw torque charts, then once you have the size of the screw you can apply the proper torque.
Careful, some barrel manufacturers recommend not tightening them too much. It affects the harmonics of the barrel.
This question may be dumb... but if I have an AR15 with a low-profile gas block, and I want to swap my cheap factory installed free float handguard with a better FF handguard, do I need a new gas block? Thanks for any help!
Probably not so long as your gas block will fit under your new rail you’ll be good to go
@@GunsandTactics I can't believe you actually answered this! Thank you!
I try to answer comments and always see questions that are emailed in
Doesn’t the heat from firing defeat the high temp thread locker?
Not really. When I’ve had to remove the screws the compound still holds
@@GunsandTactics Great. It’s the red loctite 271, correct?
On using the set screw method, if you tighten down too much would that affect the barrel inside?
You wouldn’t use that much torque on a small set screw.
I thought the same about the tapered pin at first, but figured the block itself would stop the pin before it distorted the inside of the barrel. Nice work!
Great video! What are your thoughts on the clamp on models like Superlative Arms?
Thanks for the details!
They are good to go as well,, just make sure the hardware is secured. Also talking about this more in the may QA.
Thanks! I just ordered one for my .308 build. Looking forward to more videos! You do a great job. I love the details and just your general approach. Keep up the great work!
Can you do a full video of you drilling the barrel?
Not sure, maybe? Sometimes all of the machinist police come out lol and ruin a good video
Can you make a video removing the gas block to the low profile
Like modifying a front sight base or something different
What happens if you shoot your Ar15 without the set screws in the low profile gas block?
If it’s not pinned you’ll probably only shoot it once or twice lol
GUNS & TACTICS Gotcha lol well mine only shot once, had to charge it every time for a shot, I almost sent it back to the factory before I noticed 2 screws missing from underneath the gas block
Use some high temp thread locker and tighten them back up
Could you show how to blow air into tube to show correct alignment?
Use a compressor and turn the block. You’ll hear the difference
Isn't proper to use a feeler gauge to space the gasblock from the shoulder, and if so what spacing?
You can measure that by rotating the gas block and using he bottom hole over the gas port.
Good video. I just found your channel and sub'd. I'm looking forward to other videos.
Thanks for subscribing. Welcome!!
How much is the labor cost for pinning a gas block?
In my shop I charge $50 but price could vary a little from shop to shop
What length 2/0 taper pin do you use on a low profile gas block?
I can measure but I get the colt or bravo co front sight base taper pins.
I was going to buy a BCM upper I decided to just go with their standard A2 front sight
Not a bad choice
How much did you eat into your barrel after you touched off the edge of the barrel (with your mill)? I keep watching all of these "pin your gas block" videos, but no one ever gives a measurement on how they chose the placement of the drill hole?
I usually split the diameter of the drill bit. On the bottom of the barrel it looks like a lateral cut with a ball mill if that makes sense.
@@GunsandTactics So basically the center point of the drill bore being directly over the edge of the barrel-- Ok, that makes it easy.
On the next QA I can show what the barrel looks like. Make sure to sub please
What about clamp on gas block ? Do you still have to Dimple ?
Clamp on doesn’t need dimpling
any how to info on how to pin the gas block. I have a drill press
Joey KaBoom I might do a future video on that topic. -Dave
what hex tool size is required to remove the gas block?
Usually 3/32 hex
@@GunsandTactics I have an aero precision OEM and I need to remove it in order to put a new barrel nut and handguard on. The current tools I have now don't fit
The HM defense monobloc barrel has no added gas block . It's the best way to go and 100% no failure
What about Clamp on gas blocks?
Awesome video! Love your channel. The info you provide is second to none. Keep it up!
+Jason McNamee thanks Jason!
do you know which manufacturers sell barrels that are dimpled or pinned? not sure why they just won't do that..
Many do sell with a dimple but its always best to check as things change. Additionally having a good gunsmith or armorer secure a gas block isn't that much money. -Dave
@@GunsandTactics good to know. I thought it would be over $100.
Seems that the options for getting an adjustable gas block pinned from the factory are very limited.
Great video helped a lot! How do you feel about clamp on gas blocks?? I’m fairly new so pinning and dimpling is new to me and don’t want to mess anything up lol
A quality clamp block can be good to go as well. Buy a nice one, JP, sentry etc and a clamp with threadlocker is solid.
GUNS & TACTICS awesome thank you I had bought a superlative arms clamp on. Just about to install it
Some say use only 33MS grease on barrel to upper receiver connection, some say any universal gun grease, some say anti-seize lube and then some say no grease. Some say Loctite blue and some say Loctite red. Some say one dimple OK, some say two dimples, some say two dimples and a set pin. Some say 30lbs on barrel nut, some say 40lbs, some say 50lbs or more. Some say forward assist, and some say no forward assist. Somewhere in between it's all good, as long as you aren't cross-threading and or misaligning things it'll function.
Is there a question in there I can help with?
@@GunsandTactics No, thank you though. Just like you don't openly give out the manufacturers of the barrels because people's head would explode, I was really just referencing how no matter the procedure anyone follows it is met with, "my way is better". Your videos are informative and well made, thanks for that too.
Would you recommend just grinding off the top of a A2 sight to make it a low profile? Or do you know of a 2 pin low profile gas block?
That’s a bomb proof way to do it. Won’t fit under some super low profile rails but there’s no more secure gas block than something based off a FSB
I had my gas block come loose during a competiton :( my barrel has not even one dimple :/
Is it ok if my set screw low profile gas block is loose on the barrel? When I install the gas block without screws, it's spins freely. Is that normal?
Sometimes it happens. It definitely shouldn’t be sloppy but if it still seals up ok you should be fine.
@@GunsandTactics how to know if its seals up? How to check?
Where can I purchase the gas block jig shown in the video?
Rainier Arms
Thanks!
Quick question, i build at ar-15 but I notice the gas block leak gas for the gas tube roll pin, I replace it and still leaking gas, is that normal???
Wow. He didn’t even need tools. My gas block is spinning when I try to drive the pin. And my barrel came pinned but not dimpled. :(
Your video was great info on pinning and/or securing a gas block. Yet you never showed how to actually install it.
Hence, gas block 101
Terry Womack on my to do is a install video covering both dimple and pinning.
If gas block shifting is such an industry issue why on earth don't barrel manufacturers just dimple and/or pin the barrels when you order them. I was in the service for 23 years and our issued M-16 didn't seem to hve these issues....hmmmm
Lol, that’s because the M16 had a gas block secured with two pins :-)
@@GunsandTactics ha...I get that but most barrel companies don't offer pinning or putting dimples in for bas blocks. For example....Midway I bought the faxon barrel and an adjustable gas block from them... They don't offer either solutions you showed in the video.. kinda frustrating
I agree. Most companies leave it up to the end user and most don’t know how to properly secure a block. I’m hoping to get good info out there to folks.
My bcm gas block looks slightly canted is that okay?
Adding this question to the QA
NO DIMPLE ON MINE, NOW WTF??????????????????????????
What about people that have a a2 pinned front sight . That want to replace with a low profile gas block .
YEAH BRO ITS NOT 101
Super easy, either replace gas block or cut the A2 down to a low profile
Jesus Loves You
WTH was distracting him during this video?
Nothing, I watch the monitor to make sure you can see the detail shots.
@@GunsandTactics Ohh I see now. It almost seemed as if someone was off camera distracting you. Lol. Great video though. Subscribed
I'm just a 14 Y/O doing this because my dad's fixed sight on his AR-15 is so annoying and it's also because he bought flip-up sights
Would staking the set screws make them more secure if I wasn't able to get it pinned?
Yes but then removal would be difficult. If pinning isn't an option, dimple with proper screws and red heat resistant thread locking compound would be my recommendation -Dave