CETANE Booster In My Diesel Heater - Diesel Heater. PT-17
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- Опубліковано 18 лют 2023
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I want to point out that, at this point, that I purchased this heater out of my own pocket ... VEVOR approached me afterwards, so I purchased this heater from them based on my own research, and as you guys can see, it has taken all of the abuse I have thrown at it !
My Patreon - / joel_a
The Joel Arseneault UA-cam channel where I do mostly jetski stuff that is much more edited. / @joelarseneaultyoutube
My Teespring - spark-bolt-city.creator-sprin...
Actual description: In this video, I test. Cetane Booster additive in motor oil, to see if it can improve the burn quality in a diesel heater. - Авто та транспорт
After watching many videos on the topic, I will continue burning just diesel.
A wise choice my friend, haha. If I ever figure out a practical way to do this, I will be sure to publish a video on it. These are great units IF you burn diesel.
Wow. Love your videos, awesome!!! Fellow canuck from 100 kl north of the center of the universe. Have had my issues with my heater while only burning diesel oil but continue to watch and enjoy your dabblings... Waiting to see when your exhaust starts cooking the wall and the little lady expresses her thoughts... hee hee hee I keep my exhaust pointed down to ensure liquids which don't vaporize, run out.....
Thanks for your comment !
I would never recommend someone do what I do, haha. The experiments and amusing and hopefully stop others from doing what I do. I love tinkering, but you don't want a heater that you are depending on to quit working.
What sort of issues were you having ?
And yes I did watch the last video through old motor inspection portion, yes I do geek out on this stuff! I have been running used motor oil through one of my 3 heaters and you know what my diesel only fired heaters have worked flawlessly and I have had all sorts of issues with the blended used motor oil heater, I'm done burning used mortor oil. Your style of diagnostics is very similar to mine and it is very informative and yes extremely entertaining!!
I like that you've already done all the outrageous stuff so that I don't have to.
Haha... thanks for the comment. I also like that I have done all this crazy stuff so that I don't have to. Last winter was pretty intense.
I think it's great that you take the time and test it all. I hope you find a good solution that makes it possible to use waste oil without major problems.
Keep it up.
Greetings from Germany
Thanks ! You never know what you might discover, even if you do an experiment you are 99% sure won't work. Even a failed experiment teaches you lots of things.
The white stuff is mostly sulfur and smaller amounts of zinc and other metals that is forming out of the burning fuel.. modern diesel is ultralow (15ppm sulfer), regular heating oil around 4Kppm, old oil 3K to the moon ppm depending on age and how used. Solutions are to burn hotter, clean more often, erc
It's crazy how much diesel is refined and how well it burns. We tend to take it for granted. Almost all of my used oil is from nasty old lawnmower engines.
Well, after watching your vids and seeing my dads vevor heater, you have finally convinced me to buy one for my garage. Used your code and the heater will be here this week. Looking forward to getting it installed before the polar vortex hits😁
Right on ! Thanks, I hope it serves you well. We had some nasty weather for a few days now... I'm glad I have a heater to play with, haha.
Your neighbors might call the fire department 😂 your waste oil needs diesel probably a half quart or a 1/4 of a jar as we don't know what weight of the waste oil you are using I'm assuming it's a mixture of every oil known to man lol
I have been waiting for this one
Here it is ... I made it just for you, haha. I hope you enjoy.
Happy Family Day long weekend. Hope your heater keeps working as we are in for 20-30cm of snow in the next day or so. Typically Alberta weather.
Indeed... I just found out like 30 minutes ago that it was family day weekend... depending who you ask, I work every day or never...
I can always force the heater into working, haha... If I need to.
Really interesting Joel, great work. Instantly a Venturi system springs to mind as a possible method if mixing air directly to the fuel is beneficial.
This was the idea / recommendation of Lance Ulbrich... I'm not sure how practical this will turn out to be for the reasons that I mentioned in my "viewer suggestions" video, but it is very interesting.
I'm not sure that the average person could do it ... I'm guessing that someone could make a burn chamber designed to use a pressure air feed mixing system and have it work very well, but as a add on modification... I don't know.
Since adding fuel to air is a thing already.. as is carburetor positive pressure systems....
Hydra cebo is the best money can buy 😎
Not sure if it is available in Canada... when I look for it I find CEBO Canada vacuum cleaners, lol.
When you want to compare and contrast fuels and different fuel combinations.. build a manifold that can switch between different fuel types.. keep a spreadsheet with your variables.. fan speed, temperatures of: heater housing and warm air outlet at a distance, exhaust pipe at select points, room temperature, outside temp if inlet air is from there, fuel level at certain times (to establish consumption) against your constants.. fuel temperature and composition, etc.. make some charts to find the sweet spots.
That does sound like a good idea.
I would like to thank you I have purchased one wit the help of of your link.
I have no install it yet.
Thanks ! I appreciate it ! I hope the heater serves you well.
Steal grandmas oxygen machine and hook it up. That will make it burn.
Lol... funny that you say that. I have a friend who has one of those machines and he offered to let me use it for testing... but I want to make sure I have a back up heater before I try that, because it might go into total meltdown.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Aluminium/Melting point
1,221°F
660.3°C
@@TheCritterWindow Yeah... I have been playing with putting different metals in the burn chamber (one of my next videos) and it easily melts giant chunks of aluminum, brass and copper. The only thing that saves the heater is that it is able to get rid of the heat quickly because of the fins and the fan.
i put an inflatable mattress blower up the air inlet with a variable speed control. this is the second heater i have bought until i swop parts to find the issue with the first after the new ECU did not cure the issue the burner was fine with this apart from the lowest heat setting and highest blower speed... got a 1/4 bsp sight glass to fit to the end of the heat exchanger to observe the flame. i think it will be a toroidal doughnut with the blower on. i was surprised at how stable and forgiving the combustion is.
Dude, you should do a Carbon Monoxide video.
It's quite safe, but i just don't run it in the same room. (the exhaust seems to keep the rest of the place comfy)
With my CO2 monitors next to me, I only get max 5ppm.
These heaters seem to run extremely clean.
Great suggestion! I have been thinking about doing this, and I get a lot of people commenting about how unsafe it is, that have no idea what they are talking about.
CO can be dangerous, and if these heaters are set incorrectly, they can make a lot of CO. That being said, they generally run pretty clean.
I did not look at your setup very Close but make sure the intake is bringing on in More warm air instead of the Cold Outside air to Burn hotter in the Burn chamber
I have experimented with this in the past and it does seem to help... I have actually recirculated hot air from the outlet into the combustion air.
Joel: 2:58
21:44: Hold my beer.
IDK if I mentioned it before, there is a short video on my channel of a test fire using a standard automotive fuel pump[edit: No, apparently I didn't post that one... The other vid is from a long time ago. that was actually a siphon nozzle, gravity feed fuel], along with a window A/C compressor to mix compressed air and high pressure (75 PSI) fuel. I planned to use PWM to control the pump but burnt out two controllers. Decided to use an expandable hose and a CNC switch as a rudimentary fuel pressure regulator. All mounted to a block of wood.
That was pretty jank. But I am digging this idea. I wonder how much backpressure is put on the fuel pump there, but I reckon it won't mind, considering it's design and power in the short pulses.
I wondered the same thing about the backflow ... I don't know that I mention it in any of my filming, so I'll just say that it would be a problem if you were running a nozzle or something that restricted flow into the heater, but as is, it seems to be ok. You do have me wondering something now tho... I have added enough air to cause it to flame out, and I wonder if some of this isn't due to not just the increase in air flow, but decrease in fuel.
I'm currently running a test as we speak, and the burn chamber temp on the outside is staying around 260ºC (500F) 🤟
Would something turning ( a extension of the main shaft ) . Inside the chamber where the white stuff accumulated so it breaks it up and it will exit via the exhaust . Obviously the exhaust needs to have a down gradient to prevent blockage .
I would not try this on my diesel heater for 2 reasons . Here in the good old UK you need a license to burn waste oil at a cost of £3k which makes it impossible to save money and you seem to be doing a good job of ironing it all out for everyone .
Keep up the good work , very entertaining
I have thought if this and have a few basic "designs" and have discussed it with a few people in the past.
If there was something in there moving all the time, the particles that didn't attach may be small enough that they just get blown out. You could do with my extending the shaft / having a second shaft that is connected, or having a agitator attached to the end of the exchanger that went into the tube.
One of the main issues with any of these agitators is the extreme harsh conditions inside the chamber. The heat and oxygen causes everything to be consumed... I have even tested tungsten and it eroded, to my surprise. Perhaps a ceramic or some other material.
The testing continues !
To start with used oil and new oil has a higher ignition point it also contains a lot of non combustion additives and lm pretty sure it's illegal,it is in Australia any way have fun very entertaining 👍
Thanks for the comment. Sorry that I somehow missed it until now !
Your Homeowners Insurance agent just called….
🤣 They said... "we've seen your videos and we want to give you a deal on your premiums for being such a responsible homeowner. Your warnings clearly demonstrate that you are a good influence on you community"
I stripped down my 2kw over the weekend as it was producing white smoke at startup it turned out that the glow plug was cross threaded and not done up properly so I had to recut the thread and the burn chamber gasket was split and in only 4 months of use carbon had buillt up around the outside of the burn chamber near the split in the gasket.
now it fires up faster and no longer smokes, it also burns at a higher casing temperasture 10 degrees C above what it was, Im now geting 10% more heat from it than before the service, Ive been running diesel all the time since it was first fired up on 11th of November 2022.
I think it is worth stripping these heaters down to make sure the gaskets are all good or at least to check to see if they have been assembled properly before using them. the orange silicone glow plug seal wasnt sealing the glow plug hole properly either, allowing Carbon monoxide to escape into the warm air stream so I used some high temp fire proof siliicone to seal it into place, it smelt like rubber a little for the first 10mins of running as it dried out.
How do you manage to get your exhaust off the heater each time, I used exhaust paste and ended up cutting the exhaust off with a grinder. had to buy a new exhaust pipe.
Just clamp it on dry with a good quality hose clamp, not the ones made from soft steel. The hose clamp crumples the the thin steel of the exhaust pipe and then it is gas tight enough at least for my use.
But i always smell a little bit of exhaust fume at cold start. It stops quickly.
I'm not sure, this it is from the dry clamped exhaust pipe.
But there has to be more common leakage than this - because whenever i had used one of these heaters with exhaust on top instead of downside, EVERY heater did leak unburned diesel and not only did i get toxic diesel fumes around (NOT ! exhaust fumes, these smell complrtely different) but a puddle of fresh clear diesel on the floor too.
So, there has to be some research, why this is possible at all.
First, i thought of having just bad luck, but i went to 5 brand new heater with the same behaviour and so this leakage mus be a feature.
Interesting... I wonder was was causing the issues... air leakage I suppose. Glad you got it sorted.
I don't know how likely your heater is to actually leak CO out of any of the sealed areas, as they are all under positive pressure from the inlet air fan. The only way this could happen is if your exhaust was partly plugged. If exhaust gets into the inlet air area, it means that the air is flowing in the wrong direction and the heater would flame out. It can't hurt to have it all sealed up, though.
I have never glued my exhaust and I find it to seal very well just by pushing it on. I tighten up the clamp well and have never had issues with it leaking. Even without glue, it gets stuck on pretty good due to the tapered shape of the outlet.
Yes... if you mount the heater with the exhaust on top the fuel will come out the flame initiation hole. This also happens if the heater gets plugged up. The air pressure goes in the baffle area but faces resistance so it goes back out the glow plug hole and pushes the fuel back out.
How about using something with a small orifice to inject air. Something like a piston cooling oil jet, from the bottom of a cylinder block?
At the end of part 18 I sort of talk about this a little. I have been doing some testing with that idea.
Need to take that sticker off your hat .. lol cool video..
I think some kids do that to be cool... I just forgot it in there for a long time and now I'm afraid there's going to be a nice bright red oval under it... Can you wash a hat? haha.
Brilliant idea! Like the official wo burners...blow in the metered fuel! I like. May have to run the compressed air through a warmer too so it doesnt cool the burn chamber.
I've been trying to run the air with the fuel through my double heated line, but it gets hot enough that I've burst two lines and had a third leak at the joint... Currently running into a single line heater and it seems to be doing ok.
Yes... the only downside to blowing in metered fuel is that you can only add so much pressure before you run unto fuel feed issues. It would be nice to have a little higher pressure air, at the same flow rate, for more aggressive atomization of the fuel. That being said, I am currently running tests with this set up and it may very well work. I have a few more complicated ideas if this doesn't turn out the way I want...
@@loweredexpectations4927 intrested to know what the dead head pressure of these pumps deliver?
@@loweredexpectations4927 my compressor is only set at 60psi seems to do the trick but I am feeding it in a slightly different manor
@@loweredexpectations4927 If you take your compressor as air supply, keep in mind, that conpressed air is the most costly energy supply in the workshop.
Not easy to find another energy source as inefficient as an air compressor.
I'd consider the use of compressed air only for function testing and the final design with direkt air stream to keep the electrical bill reasonable.
@@mightyfinejonboy I have been meaning to test this... I think I will go do it now. I said I was going to in the "viewer suggestion video" but I've just been busy with other things. It's not much ... a few psi at most.
I swear I only watch the video to hear promo at the end!
If you want I can do a compilation video of all of my warnings, intros and promotions 🤣 I'm sure it would go viral.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Do a compilation of 'Safety Tips' The video we've ALL being waiting for!
@@blah_z Haha... that's too short of a video... it's just me saying "don't do anything I do"
@@loweredexpectations4927 We LOVE short videos😍😍
I have heard other people saying the heaters don't run right with the green fuel line because it's to soft.
Cannot second that. The pumps sound much quieter with the soft line and the green soft ones have a tendency to get crackled at bends, then you get air bubbles in your feed.
The hard lines last much longer, but they carry the harsch pumping sound very well - i cannot, after more than five years of relying on these heaters every winter, tell any other issues with the green line.
But i keep a close eye on them not to overlook cracks.
I prefer the green line with the loud standard pumps. Just a too hard clicking noise with hard line.
Underneath a car avoid the green line.
Yes... A lot of people hear this and repeat it. There is no truth to it though. The heater does not operate with any pressure at all and the pump is just there to control fuel volume. I plan on doing a few tests to directly address this claim.
o yea lets rock n roll bro !!!! lol hey bud :)
Hey man ! Rock on !
@@loweredexpectations4927 dude you need a regulator for something like an air brush tiny adjustments !!!
@@raymondj8768 Hmmmmmm..... Now that you mention it.... I have a regulator that I had for a paint gun ... it connects to the gun handle and has a digital control... the battery is likely dead, but it will still work.
@@loweredexpectations4927 that might do it bro try it !
I use a similar product, to take the moister out of the diesel fuel!
Right on. It seems to do some good stuff🤷♂️
I would love it if you could get one of your neighbors involved in the video, what do they think of all that smoke, has it lowered their expectations with you ?
I think you're assuming that my neighbors are similar to you ? On one side I have some nice people who have a classic V8 muscle car, a V8 Dodge full size truck, a V8 boat, an outboard boat... the list goes on. They are in their 70s ... I'll have a video at some point where I fix a hole in his boat and replace the floor.
On the other side, an other couple in their 70s who have two V8 suburban type vehicles (not sure what they are) He does all of his own vehicle and house repairs and they lived most of their lives in Rwanda...
On the other side of the alley, an old couple from Poland... He worked on locomotives and tells me that I should just dump my waste oil and gas at the end of the alley ... or use it to kill weeds.
The next house over is a younger couple. The guy is a fabricator has an old rear wheel drive Honda Civic and 3 jacked up off road Jeeps ... his wife drives a giant Jeep to work... The other week I thought they had a house fire because he was having a bbq in his garage and apparently the bbq caught on fire.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I wasn't too serious with my question. In the Netherlands neighbors would have called the fire brigade and we have a lot of Greta Thunberg copies around...
@@rolandleusden 🤣 I went a little over the top with my response... I frequently get that question in many different forms ...
I try to be a good neighbour... I am considerate of others and in this video and my last test, shut the heater down long before it stopped working because the smoke was getting out of hand.
The waste oil needs a drip feed to control the amount of oil going in the burn chamber the pump is too much as you can see coming out of the exhaust not much oil is burning it is all collecting in your exhaust pipe I think 🤔
Thanks for the comment.
The oil feed is controlled by a dosing pump that is much more accurate than a drip system. I believe the reason it comes out the exhaust is that it does not get hot enough to burn, so it builds up.
I have recently been playing with a new design that works much better.
I think you would be better off using a lot more diesel fuel and maybe an 80% 20% motor oil and really filter that oil out well that's what is designed to run on diesel or caressing not motor oil
I totally agree. 10 to 20% motor oil might work. I'm thinking about doing a long term test starting at 10% ... The reason I didn't start at this point before is that the cost of diesel, where I am, means that it is more costly than Natural Gas even with diluting at 50%... Doing this test would be 100% out of curiosity and for others.
About time! I'm curious how this works in an unmodified burn chamber I wish you luck! Yeah you get a ton of oil puddling and in the line it will burn for awhile after is is shut down. Hope you see some great success with it
Lance !! ... I'm glad you commented ! I'm so bad with Names. The reason why the ending is all chopped up is because I ranted on twice about who you were and how I had talked about it in another video, haha.
I don't want to say too much of get too excited about it, because I have been this excited in the past and it always stops working, haha... I have a feeling like this is the start of a whole new adventure. I think I may need a starting circuit for getting the heater going and then a separate fuel / air injection point for running. I'd like to run this off the same pump and just have a valve or something. I have a few ideas already.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I so far havent had any problems starting it on oil gas mix just normal once heater is running and warm I kick on the air flow. I have been wanting to try one of those industrial air bubbler pumps for the air supply but have been to busy to do it I also have the programmable controller to install yet
@@loweredexpectations4927 nothing will totally get rid of the ash problem. But I do know it seems like I have much better luck starting my unit. Currently it is running the controller that looks like the black programmable control but is blue LCD numbers instead of the red. I'm not sure if it comes with a different tune then yours but I never have needed any startup shenanigans
@@lanceulbrich6249 I suppose they use a diaphragm bump ? The bubblers ?
@@lanceulbrich6249 Yeah... the ash problem is a whole other problem that I will have to deal with when it becomes the biggest problem, lol... Mine starts really well except that I recently plugged the initiation hole as I was getting fuel coming back out of it after running for a extended period of time. As a result, I now have to feed a small amount of air at startup.
Still haven't figured out how to effectively get the zinc out of the oil.... Been tied up with other things, but, will keep brainstorming.
Sulphuric acid ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 The API has been studying the use of pyrolysis. This may not be practical for our purposes. Off road oils for lawn mowers and jet skis etc still contain a good bit of zinc, as do a number of additives for older road use engines. Modern on-road use oil should be almost free of it, but....
@@rwun283 Interesting. I have considered a simple distillation process, but not sure that I want to get into doing that in a residential area...
I'm curious if you could run the heater in a vertical position to keep buildup from forming on the bottom of the chamber. If it were facing down the trash may just blow out. (Just a thought)
I have tried that and had about a 30 second clip of it in one of my videos when I removed the heater from its case and installed it directly on the shelf... but I did do another test to try it again and actually film it better... that video will be coming fairly soon I believe.
So you used more fuel with the additive in the same time? Or it ran longer with it before it messes up?
Sorry for the confusion... It ran for much longer.
16:48 A stalactite forms from the ceiling of a cave, a stalagmite forms on the floor; usually with an associated stalactite above it, some eventually forming a complete column.
The way I remember it is that a stalactite "holds tight to the ceiling" and a stalagmite "grows mighty from the floor".
As those originate from the burn chamber, towards the expulsion area, maybe they are stalactites? But growing from the "base" of the burn chamber they stand mighty, so my first thought was stalagmites.
Anyways, definitions laid out, I have no clue which fits better. That can be your gimmick. Like the Food Network lady that says "EVOO extra virgin olive oil" EVERY TIME!!! That is not faster.
thanks, i haven't heard that since i was at school and can never remember which way around they are. stalactite = hangs tight. makes sense. 🙂
Someone said this in my last video where I mentioned these things... but I just can't remember no matter how hard I try, haha. That might work...
Haha... sideways growth... It's a whole new thing science hasn't even explored. From now on I will just call them "growing pains" ...
Tights get pulled down....
@@jeremyr62 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂 ok... that's an easy way to remember.
Your cetane booster findings are really amazing.
BTW, I have been thinking of injecting hydrogen peroxide into the burn chamber by a second metering pump.
The cetane number of the H2O2 (150) is significantly higher than that of pure diesel (50).
Thanks ! I would be interested to know what peroxide does... Is peroxide an oxidizer? ...
@@loweredexpectations4927
Yes, peroxides are strong oxidizers.
@@jorgruthschilling That's what I thought... I have a feeling this would have a bad effect on the burn chamber. I burnt a little methanol and it had an obvious effect.
"Absurdity is the ecstasy of experimentation denied"..."Human beings are natures experiment of intelligence, which has gone far out of control" "Experience knows it's own experiments"
"To know something is smart. To understand something is intelligence. To experience something is fulfilment"
@@loweredexpectations4927 That sounds Eastern...
@@realeyesrealizereallies6828 I just made it up AND I am from Eastern Canada, so you are correct, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 That's a shame, Vancouver British Columbia is like heaven on Earth, atleast the Island and outside the city...You should give it a visit...There is almost nothing we have ever thought of, that someone didn't think of before us, and most likely put pen to paper, to prove it...That's what happens with 8 billion ambition filled people..The other thing which is related, is existential, exponential, and apocalyptic collapse, like every civilization that has ever existed, just far, far worse..So, I'd visit soon....I've worked on several scientific climate studies in the Canadian arctic, throughout the archipelago, Bafffin Island, Victoria Island, etc., wouldn't recommend that so much, but beautiful just the same...
@@realeyesrealizereallies6828 I barely leave my house... travel to BC... yeah right, haha. I've been to BC but never to the Vancouver.
Read all the books and watch all the videos reviewing vanilla ice cream ... I'll just try it for myself, lol.
Question: Why electric motor surging up and back down or tap on the inside aluminum case were heat at and motor picks up speed fast then wait bit and it reduce bit, reply welcome for my abedele diesel heater.
Hello Donald.
I'm not sure that I fully understand your question, but I will do my best to answer. If your motor is speeding up and slowing down it may be that the brushes in the motor have poor contact. I have a video about replacing my motor after overheating it.
When you tap on the aluminum, this may help the brushes make better contact for a few minutes. You can purchase a new motor fairly cheap, and they are not very hard to change.
I will try to find a link to my motor replacement video and send it to you.
Here is the motor replacement video. ua-cam.com/video/WZY5sZ6LF1g/v-deo.html
The oil isn't burning all the way look at the end of the exhaust on the heater that is why it is smoking on the outside of your garage it seems to be dripping off the flame and falling down the exhaust pipe your oil mixture is too rich you need to cut it with more diesel fuel
Most of my reason for running running 50/50 (generally) or 50 diesel 30 oil and 20 % gasoline has to do with my particular requirements.
For someone who is already running diesel, burning 10% oil would save you 10% of your fuel cost. However, I normally burn natural gas in my garage heaters and natural gas is much less than half the price of diesel. I simply could not afford to heat my garage with 70 or 80% diesel.
I highly suspect a person who was running 5-10 percent waste oil may be able to run for a very long time without any issues... I may be able to do a short term test, but to burn 4 litres of waste oil at 10%, this means burning 40 litres of diesel ... I would have to run the heater steady for almost a week, and the cost of diesel, at the time I made this video would have been $75.
That being said, I would love to give it a try.
I bet the crud is just metal oxides and additives from the oil.
I remember in some earlier video you talked about filtration, did you try anything there?
You probably cannot filter out most additives, because i assume, they're added as dissolved salts.
I have done VERY basic filtration, I should have better, but I assume that a centrifuge may be the only real solution.
Regardless, I assume that I will have to deal with ash deposits at some point... The smoke confirms that I am not getting a complete burn and the low burn chamber temp seems to be directly related. If / when I can get a smoke free burn with no oil in the exhaust, then I can focus on dealing with soot.
If you thought it was unacceptable what do your neighbors think
Haha... good point. Although, my neighbors are all crazy old people who tell me I'm stupid for disposing of waste oil and fuel and that I should just pour it in the alley to kill weeds...
Hi. Are you getting MB and display upgrade? For manual adjustments? Every video im thinking its burning rich.. You could find sweet spot on fuel amount. My heater is happy around 2.5hz and producing around 200c on the body. 2hz also good but around 1.6 actually it drops to 140c and stinky exhaust. Just not burning righ. Keeping the same air at 1.6 and 2.1 - 2.1hz burns cleaner. Just as example.
Cannot wait for next video 👍 keep it going 😂 its almost like we don't want u to find the solution 😂
Hey... yes, got the Mb and controller last week and have been testing.
I have found that more the air fuel ratio game is a tricky one as more air through the burn chamber means better AFR but also means more cooling in the chamber...
Haha... the never ending story.
@@loweredexpectations4927This is am issue that I have been giving some thought to recently. I am thinking to lose the large fan and have an external fan that can be controlled separately for getting the air across the heat exchanger, leaving the fan in the burn chamber free to be controlled to do what we want it to without increasing the air passing over the exchanger.
@@shanehogarth6373 yes, I have considered this. Because sometimes thats exactly whats missing. If I could run mine at ~2.4 and just blow more air around it when needed
@@loweredexpectations4927 get co2 and monoxide hand held meter from amazon. Helps tuning. But you should have some already if you are working with combustion engines. Unless nowadays all jetskies are too modern with injection modules ready to go :)
@@shanehogarth6373 That's not a bad idea, but the main issue that I have found is that the combustion air fan cools off the burn chamber when air flow is increased. The external fan and heat exchanger temperatures are only very loosely related to the burn chamber temp.
This is the point I was trying to get across at 8:14 in this video. I show / talk about the temp increase and decreases. You can also see that the change in burn chamber is over double the heat exchange.
Has anyone tried mixing used or new oil with alcohol? I think i can get my hands on pure alcohol that a factory (former workplace) is using to disinfect/sterilize machine parts used in hygiene manufacturing (like fragrances, shampoo, lotion and so on). Yesterday i picked up 60 liters of new hydraulic oil and maybe i still got some alcohol left if i haven't used it all in my fuel stove (the thing you can have burning on a table inside). I haven't mounted my burner yet but maybe i can try a mix for my self soon.
Hey. I have done this in a roundabout way, but at the first of my heater experience and didn't document it well. Alcohol will not mix with oil so you will first have to mix it with gasoline, then it will mix.
Alcohol is an oxidizer and causes a lot of corrosion ( in the pump and burn chamber) burns much cooler and also has less energy compared to gas, oil or diesel.
If you are willing to sacrifice a chamber to testing, you may be able to burn a very high percent of alcohol with just a small amount of gas, kerosene and or diesel. It won't make as much heat, but if it works it does burn really clean.
You may be able to get some sort of emulsifier that will make alcohol mix with directly with oil, but I don't know.
@@loweredexpectations4927 oh i see. Glad i asked before i did it myself =) Keep up the good work =)
@@magnus1liljeqvist Thanks !
More Snake OIl imo 🙂
I suppose that depends on what the claims are or what you expect it to do. No one at Redline claims that this will make motor oil burn in your diesel, haha.
The videos I saw you talk smack about itI guess I better watch em all 😆
Haha... I've tricked you into watching all my videos that easily ?
do you run it without the mesh in the chamber. can not see it at 17:16. I had to remove mine (cut it open like you), because of bild up carbon and "the white stuff" the heater now runs at a lower temp whitout the mesh..
Yeah, I have cut mine open and removed the mesh a few videos back. I have found it to work surprisingly well without the mesh, while burning diesel. My chamber has a few other changes as well tho...
i have done several tests without the mesh now, so I have a good idea of what to expect ... what the "new normal" is.
I really do not get this, after removing the mesh the burner will not go on waste oil longer then max half hour. before I could get up to 20 hour. tried steel wool as a mesh but did not work
@@frankandersstuen1464 That's very good information... You can purchase new mesh on amazon. I think they call them Chamber Sintered Mesh... How and where did you cut your chamber apart ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 thanks for your reply. I would have thought the chinese would never have installed the mesh if there was no purpose...I cut it the same place you did. the heater is now up and running again, I think (hope) it was that my hose clamp never worked out for me. One small weld on each side and it is burning "well" again... my waste oil is not the best, thick old from diesel engine. I use petrol and mix it in. but is not maintenance free so I keep watching your vids. greetings from Norway
@@frankandersstuen1464 I was asking about your cutting because my process removed a few mm from the overall length... I'm not sure if this helped our hurt my cause.... but it's worth mentioning. If I do it again I will be careful to not remove too much, or cut it just behind the weld instead.
If you can get your heater to burn hot, I don't think that the carbon should be an issue... the hard black carbon comes from not enough heat. The white ash stuff is somewhat unavoidable to some extent. I have found that a VERY loose woven mesh tube makes a LOT of heat and burns really well... the problem is that the stuff that I used disintegrated quickly from oxidation. The stuff that I used was from the inside of a oven door seal... Something like a woven metal sheath for brake lines, but much less material.
Is that Mazda 3 MPS?
It is a Mazdaspeed3 ... with a Cobb tuner and full exhaust. Belongs to X... When I drive it, I get in trouble as I act silly. It's pretty fun.
Have you thought of trying used vegetable oil I see people running their trucks on it. I'm waiting for a centrifuge to show up been waiting 4 mouths for it .
Holy crap... that's a long wait for a centrifuge ! I have considered burning waste veg oil... I have a supply of a few hundred litres of WMO so that's what I'm experimenting with at first. I have heard that many people have been successful with biodiesel and WVO with 30% diesel or kerosene.
I bought some new veg oil to test it out, but I am currently busy with other tests.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I know the supply chain these days suck hoping to run my truck on the cheap. I have one of the heaters in my garage and a van running them on dyed diesel for years now hoping you can come up with a good mix that I can copy. I really enjoy your video keep up the good work.
@@Jokker868 Right on, that's awesome. Depending on how my waste oil experiments go, I may decide to start burning veg oil, or I may get another heater and give it a go. I can always use more than one heater.
I didn't quite understand your fuel feed to the air mix.
You told us about fuel pressure fluktuation, but i assume, you are still feeding with the standard piston pump?
So, where do the pressure problems come from?
Are you aware of the common problem with these fuel pumps, that they sooner or sometimes a little bit later die without stopping their motion?
Because one cannot easily disassemble the standard 22ml pump, i never found out the reason, why they just stop delivering, but keep on clacking, i just ordered a whole bunch from Aliexpress and change them, when they stop working.
Recently i ordered some of the better pumps which bolted on endpieces to try these next time, haven't opened one yet.
I'm asking, because if you're planning to feed with adjustable pressure instead of adjustable piston strokes, you'd have to switch to a constant flow design with pressure regulator and return line.
Would be no problem, it just drains more current for the fuel supply.
@@werner.x it is fed with the stock pump air is only injected along with the oil to atomize the oil
@@lanceulbrich6249 Ok, that is, what i did understand, too.
But then he seems either to have a failing pump or the air bubbles compressibility overcomes the pressure of a pump stroke. Since his pump seems to still work fine without air feed, i assume the second.
But be aware, that fuel pressure problems with the cheap knockoff of the eberspächer fuel pump are common.
I go through one of the non servicable pumps per heater and year on average and i always use the supplied fuel filter.
When i once tried this pump type on waste oil, not with the heater, i tried to feed waste oil into my wood stovve,, the pump failed after some days. I stopped trying, need better pumps first.
@@werner.x he is performing a test I told him to try. I have run my heater several hours in this manner the air injected into the line is not to overcome and problems with the heater or the pump the air is only to allow the oil to atomize once it heats the combustion chamber without the air the oil puddles up in the chamber when you supply air and oil at the same time the air bubbles create somewhat of a mist in the burn tube. Check out the short video waste oil air injection on my UA-cam channel it shows this in action
@@lanceulbrich6249 Thanks. I'll watch your video later on a bigver screen. I just wanted to address the problem with fuel pressure, he mentioned. Which i think, is odd. - so i'm looking for possible reasons. Just like i like to do ;-)