Incredible Results - Diesel heater Burning Used ATF - (Success?!)
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2024
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SALE HEATER ! Simple - basic heater (no engineering mode)
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Actual Description: In this video, I burn 6 litres of ATF in my modified diesel heater, and check to see what is left in my burn chamber, afterwards. - Авто та транспорт
Don’t try to suppress the rants. You’re a natural at them
Haha... Yeah... I just don't want my video to be 40 minutes or an hour. Thanks though !!
@@loweredexpectations4927 if it was 40mins long i would still watch them with my morning coffee
Lat Winter I broke my heater mod'ing virginity by burning 25 litres of clean ATF with an added splash of turpentine (for no good reason other than to get the viscosity looking like that of diesel). That led me to believe it could burn anything. And here I am now, a heater dismantling / cleaning ace lol.
🤣🤣🤣 possibly one of the best stories I've ever heard. So... were you able to burn through the 25L of ATF without issue ? That's awesome.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Well it was new, not used. Heater did fail shortly after when I went crazy with with disposing oddball hydrocarbons. I blame the anthracene (coal tar oil) lol!
@@davgregeric Haha... I love it !
Key ingredient ATF👍
1. Always add the diesel deep clean treatment to any waste oil fuel supply to help carbon/coke burn completely to ash.
2. Add ATF to used oil supply to help keep the fuel tank/lines/pump clean, and help scrub the inside of the burn chamber.
3. Some sort of way to occasionally inject air bubbles into the fuel line to 'interrupt' the fuel supply into the burn chamber so a little extra oxygen is added to help burn carbon/coke buildup and blow it out.
4. I built a heat exchanger for the burn chamber air intake to syphon heat from the exhaust to help bring the oxygen and fuel closer to its flash point
Thanks for the comment.
I'm not sure if these are suggestions, or stuff that you do...
I have used a few different fuel additives by Redline and STP... They seemed to help a little with reducing carbon.
I found that burning ATF cleaned out the heater when compared to / after running waste engine oil, but for me, burning diesel does a better job at removing soot / coke.
Adding air bubbles will make the heater run lean due to the lack of fuel, but the amount of air in bobbles is insignificant. a bobble large enough to make any difference in this way would starve the heater for fuel and cause it to flame out.
Burning waste oils does require more heat, so I can see how heating the inlet air could help... I have experimented with this in the past and didn't find a substantial difference in burn quality, but it was a long time ago and I probably wasn't tracking the data well... Hot air is less dense, so while it carries its own energy, it is not capable of producing as much energy.
If this stuff is working for you, then keep it up ! 👍
I really like the idea of the 3 holes in the fuel bolt, does it's orientation matter when screwed in ? My wife and I started a drinking game every time you say gradge. 👍👍😂💞🍹
I'm surprised YT allowed you to leave a comment that had the words "orientation" and "screwed" in it 🤣
Yes... the orientation will matter. I will put an indicator on the outer part so that I can clock it. The new fuel tube will have a nut on the outside so that it can be locked in place once in the right position.
I'm also going to get rid of the small fuel feed line / pipe and use a much larger one, so there will be less restriction for the aquarium pump.
Haha... you must be wasted after watching this video !
I laugh cause Joel seams to not have a accent till he says garadge
@@shawnrinkel8377 Haha.... If only I choose to say "shop" I could have fooled everyone.
I dig the longer form content personally... Especially when you still have knowledge left to impart. Thanks again Joel ❤❤
Thanks Tilly ! .... new profile photo, or have I just not noticed ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 I cycle thru several. Spring time here so it's go go GO... lol... Love your channel and your style. Skippy is bc I am immune to receiving gifted memberships
Tape one or two smaller neodymium magnets to the side of the fuel filter it'll keep it away from the mesh the iron filings
Hmmmm, that would work👍
Whaaaaatzz,zz in the boxxxx, what's in the box? A "Seven" movie reference 😅
HAHA... nice.
Hi Joel, You are truly a genius, well done awesome job!
Thanks !! ... but "genius" ... I think you need to Lower you Expectations, haha.
I haven t seen anybody piull of this before so in my book you are a genius hahahaha!@@loweredexpectations4927
I just noticed the subscriber count,so Congratulations on the soon to be 6K subs.
I hadn't even noticed... that must have just happened ! haha.
Hey Joel , I would love to see you do a control experiment where you run only Diesel in the port where you are currently running in the Oil/ATF and see if it's builds up like it does with the oil/ATF , this would then tell you if it's a ( placement ) of where the oil tube is placed ..
Just an Idea , be interesting to see if it builds up at that port/nozzle..
Great results though .... great nonsense lol...
Cheers thanks for sharing Joel..
That is true... we don't' know for sure unless we test. I am fairly confident it would be clean, but that has never stopped me from trying something before, haha.
"great nonsense" haha. Thanks !
Great video. now you are getting somewhere.
I wish I had more ATF to try for more testing... I have over 400L of waste oil, though... so back to it for at least a little while.
@@loweredexpectations4927 maybe try a transmission shop or automobile repair would save some for you
Hi Joel,
Thanks for the test.
I don't recall where I read it, but I remember reading that someone was burning a 50-50 mix of used ATF and diesel directly into their primary heat chamber, with no ash buildup. It seems that ATF burns a lot better than used or new motor oil does, and without causing an ash buildup.
Could be that ATF is closer to diesel and kerosene than motor oil is. That kinda makes sense as many diesel folks (myself included) use atf as a fuel treatment for their diesel engines.
You might try the 50-50 direct burning as a test.
Philip
Thanks for the comment.
I have been trying to tell people fro almost a year that engine oil has a whole different set of challenges to other oils / fluids. It is a heavy oil and will produce ash regardless of it being "clean" or not.
ATF, like you say, is closer to diesel, in the way that it has the stuff removed that causes it to produce ash. I think the same is true for hydraulic fluid. If you are able to find a supply of this, it is definitely worth giving it a try. I think that the 50/50 is probably on the high side. I would try 70 oil 30 diesel (or gasoline)
I'm all out of used ATF and it is about $40 a gallon, haha.... but if I come across some used stuff I will be trying it again in a standard chamber.
I enjoy the more you dig into something.
Good to hear ! This is getting interesting.
You could just put the magnet on the outside of the tank. But beware that other ferros metals in the vecinity will magneticly attract as well. So it might just attract the stuff onto the outlet
Yeah, this is what I have been doing... I place a stron magnet under the outlet of the tank. It shouldn't' be a problem as long as I keep the magnet there the whole time. ... the metal outlet will act as a magnetic filter🤷♂️
Great job, Joel. Very promising results with the ATF.
Thanks ! I wish I had more to test in a normal heater...
Alcohol tobacco and firearms?
@@mauriceupp9381 I'm surprosed I didn't get my video deleted for "burning atf" haha.
@@mauriceupp9381 The results with those are _always_ promising.
Hell yeah dude! This looks promising!
It does for sure ! I'm working my new fuel nozzle today. I hope to start testing more engine oil ... or maybe hydraulic fluid tomorrow.
Rally enjoy your mods, saves me doing them! Keep em coming please 🙂
HAHA ! .... that's clever... I wish I had the sense to just watch others.
Dang man I feel like u read my mind sometimes! Awesome new chamber. I’d like to see you try injecting down stream and upstream. I wonder if going upstream will help mixing a little better because of the lower pressure used. Awesome vid sir.
Thanks !! I don't think the air circulation is very aggressive , but I like that idea... going against the grain make cause some turbulence and improve mixing.
I just got 2 of these, new to diesel heaters. 5 total, 3 are all in ones with the silver LCD display & display remote. I love those models fo them. & even swapped the ECU & controller to one of these units because they came with the 6 setting controller. Meanwhile the other units have the secret screen which allows you to tune the machine better. I've already tried waste oil & clogged up my first machine. I must say ive been watching your videos lately, I saw the odd one but was looking at so many. Yours are in the direction I'd like to take with waste oil. I'd like to do the least number of modifications as well. I think additives like lucas are key to cleaner burns but also that a gas & waste oil mix is much better than a waste oil & diesel mix. Im not sure if it's the flash point or the octane level but the Lucas does seem to help burn out any leftover build up further back. I did a poor job of cleaning mine first time around with the plan of burning out what was stuck further back & it seems to have worked. It clogged again shortly after, but it was running briefly & pushing out lots of black smoke & over saturating with fuel I believe. I've always tried to dial in the setting to how I felt it would burn the oil better, and it seemed to work as I was getting it to start in -30c with oil mix for a while but that was off waste oil & gas, no diesel. I figure if you can mix it so the gas octane matches to what diesel's is, it might work good enough & not soot up as badly. Im thinking I should do a 2-tank set up like you to start off with diesel & quickly switch back when I can hear it starting to choke the flame out due to blockage.
Anyways love the videos! Thank you for making & sharing them!
The heaters with the engineering menu is better for people who like to tinker. More and more heaters are getting away from that, because, unless you know what you are doing, you can mess things up, haha.
Fuel additives can help with carbon, but most engine oil will have issues with ash, even if it burns perfectly clean, due to the makeup of the oil itself. This is why I am trying to make the camber easy to clean, haha.
I found, the problem with mixing oil and gasoline is that the gas will burn and leave the oil behind. It works better than strait oil, but the flashpoint of gas is so low, that it flashes off and burns right away, leaving the oil behind.
My latest setup was still running fine after burning 10.8 litres of waste oil (not mixed) in the secondary chamber, and 10.3 in the primary chamber. It left a lot of ash behind, but it was running well... I finally took it apart because it overheated and I thought I had ruined some stuff.
Very interesting results! I bet that debris was just the friction material. Aanndd then you mention that at the end 🙂Another great video!
Another test I would like to try again with just a few changes.... very interesting results.
@@loweredexpectations4927 For sure! I wonder how small some of the friction material actually is, and if paper filter would actually get it out.
Wow! Congrats on an amazing ATF run Joel! Quick suggestion if you would like to use magnets in your waste fuel tank... use a scrap piece of sheet metal (maybe 150mm x 150mm) under your tank to collect and position the magnets where you want them, you could toss a handful of little neodymium magnets into the tank and simply collect them by moving tha scrap metal around under the tank.
Thanks for the comment ! That's a good idea with the magnets and scrap metal ... I like it. I may give that a try in the future.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Won't hinder a magnet to accidentally catch onto the outlet though.
@@werner.x I think perhaps there's something "lost in translation" here. I'm slightly confused by this.
@@loweredexpectations4927
It was about the suggestion of a number of smaller magnets, dropped in and fixed in place with some outside ferrous metal.
@@werner.x Hii Werner, you're correct if you were to simply drop magnets into the tank when it is in use and sitting upright, they could easily be attracted to the fuel outlet, probably best to wait until the tank is nearly empty and tip it back so the magnets fall into the opposite side of the tank from the metal fuel fitting, then capture them together with the scrap of sheet metal underneath the magnets.
Well done 👏
Thank you !
Nice i had a feeling it would work better
Looks like silica
Indeed... it works way better. Makes a lot of heat too.
At the beginning of the clip, there was so much smoke, but the firefighters didn't come?
Kidding :) ,
Don't forget to buy a magnet to fit in the tank if you don't have time to somehow filter the oil atf
Otherwise, the experiment is finally successful.
Haha... I was afraid someone would notice and be worried or annoyed ... I'm actually surprised at how quickly it cleaned up ...
This relative success has made me want to try to buy or build a centrifuge and find a steady supply of ATF .
@@loweredexpectations4927
I also did think about a smaller magnet with a threaded hole, fixed to the the filler cap with a rod. But then i thought about the extra complication to handle the long and dirty dripping assembly every time during refill and i came to the conclusion, i wouldn't like it.
@@werner.x That's true... The way I was doing it is pretty convenient, as long as you remember to leave the magnet there all the time.
Great video man cheers 🍻
Thanks !
Joel have you ever tried tricking the temp sensor some how like putting something between the sensor and the heat exchanger to make it run hotter.
I haven't done it, but I have told others to do it 🤣 .... My current ECU will allow me to get over 267C.... I'm not sure if it is defective or what, but I saw 267 the other day without it shutting off.
I have thought if this though, yes... Putting a piece of gasket paper or something between it and the exchanger, or something to reduce the contact patch.
So I modified my burn chamber like you have with the holes for more air flow. But I cut 4 slits down the sides of the chamber and bent the cuts inward to create a swirl affect to burn my waster oil. Very little soot build up after burning for 24 hrs making sure the temp stays above 200c
Cool stuff ! I see I'm a bad influence on you, haha.
I'm confused about what part you cut slits in and bent. The baffle ?
Are you burning a mix of oil and diesel ? Typically, soot / carbon is from an incorrect air fuel ratio, or too cold of a burn. Ash (the white stuff) is from crud in heavy oils and the slag or oxides is from other impurities.
I still have a fuel manifol where i start and shut down with pure diesel / heating oil/ kerosene/ jet A , run with a ultrafiltered blend 50% waste everything and anything / 40% diesel / 10 % petrol. Hot, no ash observed even though the exhaust exits the wall at room temp
Say what ? Waste everything and anything ? I'm going to try pancake syrup in mine.
#Joel Thanks for your time, Great video ! Bravo
Thanks... I appreciate it !
Engine and transmission oils have a lot of additives and dispersants, a major one of them being calcium with other metals. They are mostly dissolved so even a small micron filter won't take it out. You're always going to have build up using oils, especially used oils with wear metal/clutch material if not filtered down to sub micron.
Thanks for the comment.
Yeah... I have not burnt new ATF yet, but I have burnt new engine oil, and the ash was the same (based on volume and appearance) as used oil.
Some of the additives can be consumed in the combustion process or make their way out of the exhaust, but some of it will always be left behind. This is why I suggested a centrifuge may be the best option for "filtering" used ATF.
@@loweredexpectations4927 that would be an interesting experiment to try.
Hi Joel, I've had an idea for possibly easier cleaning of the crud inside. Maybe that hole you drilled in the end of the heat exchanger before, would it be possible to make it bigger to the size of a 22mm or 28mm plumbing compression fitting plug so you could hoover the crud out without taking it apart? And collect the debris in a sock or cheese cloth over the hoover attachment.
I have considered giving this a try, however, the aluminum on the exchanger, with the exception of a small area where I put my current hole (in the end) is very thin. The hole I made in the side only has about 2 threads ...
If I make the hole larger, in the end of the exchanger, there is only a few MM of material, and this is not ideal for any sort of plug. I have been thinking that I can poke into the hole with a rod, smash up the ash and then vacuum out the exhaust port... That may work.
I've been pondering your ongoing problems with CO production. CO is generated mainly from two causes: too little oxygen to burn the fuel or too much fuel to burn at too low a temperature. Logically speaking you could improve either the oxygen issue or burn less fuel (at a higher temperature). But, there's a third parameter that you lost sight of: the evacuation speed of burnt gasses.
In other words you need to improve the outlet of burnt fuel by using a (slightly) wider (tail-)pipe. Remember, the longer and thinner the tail pipe, the more friction and the more burn gasses backup towards the combustion chamber, hence a worse combustion (too little oxygen and incomplete combustion)
I also mentioned last time, you might have to adequately pre-heat the fuel. The more viscous the fuel is, the more you need to pre-heat and vaporize it for complete combustion. I observed a used-oil burner in a garage and the way they seem to have solved that preheating problem is, by leading the fuel to the flaming area through a coiled (spiral) metal tube hovering over the burn gasses area.
I imagine that, if you preheat the fuel it will also vaporize better due to increased pressure and less viscosity
Thanks for the detailed comment.
I think I would call that 3 things. Too little oxygen, too much fuel and too little temperature. Regardless of the air / fuel ratio, if it is too cold, it will be an incomplete burn and cause CO.
I have considered modifying the exhaust on the heater, but I haven't for a few reasons.
The largest restriction of the entire system is actually the inlet port, as it is actually D shaped a few CM into the hole, and is about half the size of the exhaust. In this system, the inlet air is the only thing that drives the exhaust out, so a more free flow exhaust would be of limited benefit.
Secondly, a more free flow exhaust, that gets rid of exhaust gasses more quickly will also greatly reduce efficiency of the heater, as the heat escapes out the exhaust. A slower, more controlled flow will capture much more heat energy from the burnt gasses.
Lastly, one of the thing that I've been trying to do is perform modifications that either the average person could do, or have drop in parts that the average person could install. A larger exhaust port could be done, but it would require substantial machining of the exchanger. A larger pipe, without a larger port, would not do much to speed up exhaust gasses.
Preheating oil is almost always done in waste oil burners, this is true. WIth my last few nozzle designs, the fuel has been preheated as it enters un through the exchanger that is about 200C, passes through the exhaust gasses and then the tip of the nozzle is in contact with a red hot part of the chamber.
I think, in most cases, the trick is to preheat the fuel, but not have it vaporize inside of your fuel feed, as that will cause crud to build up in the feed tube and cause a blockage. Many waste oil heaters that use drip feed, will run the oil feed, in through the air feed hole, to keep the outside of the fuel line from getting too hot.
That being said. I would really like to try this with a coil of metal brake line (or something similar), and have the fuel feeding through a tube that is glowing red hot ! That would be cool.
Great test. That new insert looks promising.
I’d caution against using impact tools on things threaded into aluminum. Not that it matters much with the heat exchanger.
Cheers.
Thanks ! I'm excited to try it.
Haha... yeah.... The fuel feed tube was stuck in the chamber, and was actually free in the aluminum.... but it could have very easily damaged the threads. The hole in the chamber had expanded when hot, I threaded the feed tube in nice and tight to stop it from leaking, and then when it cooled, it clamped down on the tube, locking it in place.
I'll bet most of the solids in that mass were dissolved friction material from your trans clutch bands. That contributes to the brown colour in old atf. The problem is it's too fine to filter out with conventional pass through filters.
Thanks for the comment. I was thinking the same thing about it being friction material.... I also suspected it would be too fine to filter some of it out... It would be interesting to see what a centrifuge would do.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, that will give you the ultimate cleaning solution for all fuel oils. You may have a great project to build one right there..
The ring you plan to insert may benefit from some smaller holes around the big one to get a circle of flames around the center
You could be very right there... I did that with my original burn chamber.
Have you tried using Veg oil in the same setup? i know lotta people usually mix with diesel or petrol and burn it that way, but id be interested to see how it would burn neat like you have here.
I have a few gallons of veg oil that I purchased to test on my heaters.... I was going to try burning it in a normal heater first, as I have an equal number of people telling me they have good luck and nothing but trouble... So I'd like to see for myself.
I feel like my setup will burn it quite well and I do plan on testing it out. It's on the long list of things to do, haha.
Can you try spraying water into the intake when running to see if it cleans the inside with steam? Just like the decarbonization is done in cars.
Water Methanol mix, like in diesels, would be fun to see the effects
I do want to try this, out of curiosity and almost did it during my last test haha...
It could actually work with this set up, as the primary chamber will keep it nice and hot. Others have suggested this before, with the single chamber... the issue with that is that it would have caused it to flame out pretty quickly.
Now you have me wondering what would happen if you injected liquid nitrogen, haha.
I'll see if I can make this happen 👍
I'm curious about the power to run the pump. There's all kinds of cheap board controllers on eBay and amazon. Pwm controllers for example. Hi from Lacombe.
The air pump or fuel pump ? The air pump is 50 watts. The fuel pump is 12V and runs between .8 hz and 8hz pulsed DC. Someone is sending me a pretty cool device that will allow me to run two pumps off of one ECU ... I believe it has its own pulse generator. Takes the signal from the ECU, then allows you to split so many percent to one pump and the rest to the other, or to completely customize the output.
excellent work thanks Joel. Are you going to try used hydraulic oil at sime point?
I don't have any used stuff... but I do have 5L or so of new Kubota stuff that I will never use... I am considering using it.
I have 400L of engine oil that I need to get rid of, so my main focus is on that.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Yes, burning new ATF to please your viewers might make your situation worse, not better.
For the money spent you'd have to do more oil changes and you may end up out of garage space before next winter 😆
@@werner.x Haha ! ... trying to decide at the moment if I'm going to sell or not... I was "approved" but at 10% interest and a very high payment.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Sorry to hear that. Hope you decide right.
I had limited money, bought a large fixer upper house with decent areal for my dogs in a small town at the polish border, 03149 Forst(Lausitz), Eastern Germany.
Hauled all my tools, which were a ton and more - had everything automotive - enough tools for three mechanics, since i planned bigger and here the boss provides the tools) and all my other belongings from Munich (Bavaria) to Forst - and started renovating.
But then things went sideways. Had to leave after 2,5 years to work in Western Germany, since i couldn't find fair paying work (sufficient to pay the bank) there - I did own the bank only ~ 10 000 euro - not really much. But it was overdue and i had no other idea than to leave for paid work.
But by leaving there for several weeks - i planned to come back one weekend per month - (hade to save fuel costs) - i practically invited my neighbours, which were socialized in a communist society, to break open every building, steal literally everything except the books, which still are littered all over the place - even the cars in the yard are gone or parted out - and blamed it to the polish people across the border.
Ruined me completely, never got another house, never could afford to return to Munich either.
Got a new set of tools during another 10 years of factory work - but then the rented garage burned down - some africans in the same building weren't careful with gasoline whilst parting out cars.
That was quite recently, 2015.
Got another set of tools meanwhile - but i lost my power.
Unfortunatelly my real estate in Forst isn't worth anything, because these people are so hardcore communists, nobody want's to invest in this part of the country.
Elon Musk has serious problems too with his Tesla Gigafactory near Berlin.
These peole hate business and these, who have more money than others. They will destroy Elon Musk there as much as they can, wait for it.
Cannot get my money back from that estate also. No money in this area and there never will be in my lifetime.
So i'm stuck with age, little power and no money. Bad decisions i've made by my own.
Whatever you decide - see, that you try to keep, what you already have worked for !
That's kind of important.
You may run into problems, if you have to start over with nothing and alone too often.
I'd calculate to keep house and garage, if i could pay the bank, but have nothing to eat.
As soon, as you are a mere tennant, you're in the sake of a fate you cannot control.
But in the hands of a bank you have to pay regularly, no matter what. But that stops eventually, having to pay a landlord never stops and keeps you poor also.
ATF is going to have strange additives in it and used ATF your going to get clutch material.
Used motor oil is going to have all kinds of stuff in it. If you can let the used oils settle out contaminants and filter it, it should burn cleaner.
Filtering is a great idea, and ideally a centrifuge would be the best solution. That being said, I have not burnt new ATF yet, but I have with engine oil and it created just as much ash as used stuff.
I think the slag, or whatever it was in mh chamber, in this test, was from wear materials / clutch materials in the ATF. I'm not sure how fine of filtration one would need to get this out, or if a centrifuge would be necessary.
Back in the mid noughties Merc took on a publicty staunt to drive a merc diesel around the world to prove the robustness of thier CDi engines, some special mods were listed on the web that included using 3% ATF (i think the % was, it was a fair time back) they did this to guard against "dry" fuels found in 3rd world countrys and to proctect the CDi HP fuel pump from wear, so it was added as a lubricant, not strictly pertanant to this test but it shows at least that Mercedes didn't worry about ATFs burining abilitys.
I used to use 3% in my older diesels after supher was removed from our fuel supply (UK) it also quietened down older diesels engines and gave a smoother idle but as i say not pertinant to this video but it burns fine and IME is as good as if not identicle to using 2stroke oil in a diesel engine.
As allways chap enjoying the vids 😎
I have heard of ATF being used for somany different things. That's pretty cool about Merc, and I think I have heard about that before.
I feel like you could burn it at a pretty high percent, in a diesel engine, as long as it were filtered very well, or new... but new = $$
@loweredexpectations4927 totally agree with you, but as a lubricant additive it's cheaper than 2stroke oil but again not pertinent to this video, just adding my 2pennys worth so to speak 😁
Keep up the great work 👍
@@Dirt-Diggler 🤟
How about a big snap ring for keeping the baffle in?
That could do it ! ... I may have to use two ... one on each side. Great idea.
A piece of cardboard or paper should hold it until you can line it up and put the tube in there.
Or a toothpick
@@markcoyle8003 That's what I did with the chamber piece... but this time there's an extra baffle that will be free to move if not locked in place.
Sorry for so many comments on this video, but I had an idea right at the end. What if you pumped the oil or ATF through a filter first to lower the impurities?
I am using an 80 micron filter, but I think either a centrifuge (ideally) or a very fine 1 micron filter would work well with the ATF
What this test highlights to me, is the difference between the waste oil and ATF. The stuff left behind from the ATF looks like it could be filtered out. It is almost 100% slag or oxides of wear materials (I assume) ... In contrast, the ash from the waste oil appears to be from the oil itself.
ultra filtering the oil would remove the metal oxides, moisture and a lot of crap, but I believe the majority of the ash is a result of burning the oil itself.... Though I may be wrong about that.
What makes me think this, is the fact that I burnt brand new engine oil and it had just as much of the white ash as the used stuff.
@@loweredexpectations4927Have you tried new ATF yet to compare with used and I just missed that video?
@@wallacefrey6247 Nope... I have not tried new atf yet... other than 2L of new stuff as part of this test... I ran out of used stuff. Stupid stuff is like $40 a gallon here... I think I found some for $33 for 5 quarts
@@loweredexpectations4927 The cheapest source for plain old Dexron 4 ATF is Walmart down here in the US -- about $13/gallon IIRC.
What bout just regular cooking oil? As occasionally can be found wit a discout costing less than diesel per liter
I have a couple of gallons that I really want to try... I've just been busy with other things. I want to try it in a standard burn chamber first... and then in my modified chamber.
Hey Joel, have you tried spraying both sides of the new gaskets with WD40 if you can get WD40? It helps from the gaskets sticking and tearing to the housing.
I will have to give that a try. I have used assembly lube and grease before, but WD40 would be much easier.
Just use thin double sided tape for your magnet on the outside...
Yeah... that would work fine. I have been placing a large one under the outlet of the tank.
@@loweredexpectations4927 They actually work best away from the flow - the flow can pull the outer stuff off if there's a lot - however thinking about this as flow is my mistake, there's no flow here, ha ha.
@@fredio54 True... Very little flow.
Cheers Joel. I look forward to the random wow's and nonsense. 🤙
Haha... there was a lot.
👍
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Is that the same stainless steel mesh that I sent you, or did you have to buy more?
Yes, thank you !! I keep forgetting to mention it in my video.... I still have a pretty decent chunk of it left. Although it gets chewed up, I think I will use it again, as it makes cleaning the chamber really easy... you just pull the mesh out and done.
Do you recall what the size of the stainless mesh you gave Joel was? #20 or less (the smaller the number, the larger the holes in the mesh)?
@@philipreich7035 I have seen a few different ways of rating mesh... one is the size of hole in it and the other is just by a number system, and I have no idea how that works.
@@philipreich7035Not sure about the size,but there about 12 squares per inch.
What is your air quality tester ?
It is a CM Tool air quality meter from amazon. I have been told that a lot of them are fake... mine seems to be legit.
Hi Joel, I think you said 23mm is 1l. I measured 23mm on my tank and I got 2hrs running. What do you think ? Thx.
I think it was 28mm and that is sort of a rough measurement, as I used a gallon jug to calculate...
Depending on your exact heater, at your max setting, that sounds about right. WIth a pump speed of 6hz, you would consume about 950 ml in an hour.
I have a Vevor 8kw maybe more like a 5kw. I've set it up not even a month ago.
@@kevinfarrell6948 Almost all of the "2, 5 and 8kw" heaters share the same fuel pump (22ml meaning 22ml per 1000 pulses) For more heat, they just cycle the pump faster and spin the fan faster.
Thx for all of the replies appreciate your input.
I like your videos and they are very interesting but from my own experience I wouldn't try to change anything on my combustion chamber because the heater still runs on my 70/30 mix of hydraulic oil and gasoline. Today it's been 16 days since it works on this mix, I have a 3-way valve, I start on diesel, at 200 °c I switch to mix and then when I want to turn it off I switch to diesel. Speaking honestly, only God knows what deposits are in my combustion chamber, but as long as the flame starts well, hot air at 95-100 °c is coming in, I will not go to it. So, I have 16 days x 14 h/day = 224h and I have consumed 63 l of mix, now calculating 224/63=3.55l/day, 3.55/16=0.253g/h or is my math bad? Having these data, I think it's worth opening it once a month and I clean it, it only costs me an hour of work and two gaskets to change. These values and the fact that it works well with the mix happen since I installed the 3-way valve and start/stop on diesel, before when I started and stopped. directly with the mix I had big problems and after 3 days the flame stopped starting and had to be repaired and cleaned. Oh, and I forgot to say, the exhaust gases are very clean, not a trace of smoke and they are not bothersome to the nose, I smelled them for a few seconds. What do you think? I know that you will end up discovering the clean burning of oil like diesel and you will end up selling the idea to squirrels who will pay you big money😁😁
Thanks for the comment.
Hydraulic oil and a few other fluids are much less likely to produce ash, but my main focus is on engine oil, and it produces a LOT of ash... I have 400L of oil currently and other fuels are just experiments for the benefit of others.
If you have access to hydraulic oil, this seems like a great solution. I would certainly do this. The original design of the chamber is excellent if you are burning a fuel that doesn't create much or any ash... However, when burning fuel that creates ash, they do not work for very long, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 hi,i came with an update,after 100l of mix fuel(70-30 hudraulic oil and gasoline) i decide to open and clean my heater who was preety clean for my surprise and it was expected to be full clogged.It was some deposits on the bottom of burner but not like when i start and stop only with mix. Definetly starting and stoping with diesel is the best choise for me.I will keep using the heater with this mix because for me is the most economical choise and is preety decent to clean the chamber after 1 1/2 months and 100l of mix. Thanxs for all your videos
@@carlos_sacalul That's awesome ! Thanks for the update.
are you planning on trying kerosene?
If I were to try kerosene, I would burn it in a normal beater, and not this contraption. I have heard from many many people that kerosene works fine. In some parts of the world it is cheaper than diesel, and it gets used a lot.
I have already tested paint thinner and varsol, and both of those worked fine.
Gotta get to work in 4h but quick watching your video 🫡
I'm joining your patreon soon to support you in buying some burn chambers and stuff C:
Thanks for your support ! Much appreciated, and we'd love to have you on Patreon 👍
@@loweredexpectations4927 can't miss out on your special content :D
Two of the 3 Vevor heaters I bought last month are the same $119 units you unboxed here today. What a bargain.
I've been meaning to ask, is your 5% discount up and above the 5% Vevor offers, making it a 10% discount?
You revealed a lot about the new design of the burn chamber.
If there were only a reasonable way to make adjustments on the fly inside the chamber, that would be cool .
27:42 For what it's worth, I foresee a few things happening. Nice design by the way 😮
*The heat exchanger body getting hotter than what the rest of the components are designed for and setting the stage for a spectacular "Final Meltdown" 🔥🧯👨🚒 👍🏼
* It may carbon up if the airflow is restricted too long in the burn area even though the attempt is to keep it there and burn ALL of the fuel / gases prior to exhausting them.
* It may go viral and get 3 million hits ! 👍🏼
🤷🏼♂ So what else is left to do but drop it in there and hope for a eureka moment. 🙏🏼
Vevor's secretly using you for your R & R work 😂🤣
That's cool, keep sending your products Vevor, and Joel will keep putting them to the test...
🤔My lowered expectations exceed themselves 🤔? wtf 😂🤣
I thought it was additional, but apparently it's not, because the item is on clearance (I'm guessing). I just added one to my cart and tried to use my code, but there was already a code there... I deleted the code and now the website is NOT happy, haha.
If I left the fuel nozzle loose I could rotate it and see if it makes a difference. I've been working on the new nozzle (pretty much done) and I think it is going to be much more effective. I also noticed that the oil that got in my air pump didn't do it any good... I have serviced it, but it needs new valves ... It doesn't always make the same pressure / flow, but when it does, it is pretty impressive.
Haha... I like your predictions. Hopefully I can control the heat so it doesn't melt ... yet. If it is too restrictive I should be able to tell pretty quickly, based on CO and the temp it reaches on diesel alone... then make changes and try again. I may have to widen those slots. A viral video would be cool... haha.🤟
Haha... yeah... Vevor is making notes and ready to release their J Spec Combi heater. Diesel / WMO heater.🤣
@@loweredexpectations4927 I'll try to buy one tonight. I bought mine on clearance but, as late as 4 days ago
I noticed Vevor were selling them as a "on sale" item. 🙄
Ying-Yang advertising, It's all Chinese to me 🤔 Hahaha !
" I've been working on the new nozzle (pretty much done) and I think it is going to be much more effective".
I had to delete the burner idea I had wrote down 😂 mainly because it involved using 2 bearings within the heaters housing and got wilder from there.
I was thinking back to last weeks comments that the "pump" having rubber valves / O-rings, might be vulnerable to swelling issues as does the principle behind swelling oil seals in order to stop leaks. It's a good thing to know for obvious reasons and well worth mentioning. Will be watching for more 👍🏼
Hear ye, hear ye, hear ye ‼
Get your very own J Spec Combi heater. Diesel / WMO heater coming to an apocalypse near you, 2025.
@@DanDan-yy8sf HAHA... I have had some of those wild ideas that I was like "ok, now let's design something that I will actually build"
Haha... I'm thinking that I REALLY want to try "burning" pancake syrup in my secondary chamber... just to see what happens.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Smells like the right thing to do 🤣