I run two tanks with mine, I used two solenoid valves to select which tank I draw from. Tank one contains pure diesel and the other is 50/50 waste oil mixed with diesel (an old 500l oil heater tank). I start the heater with straight diesel then after it reaches running temp I switch it over to the mix and it runs fine (and clean). I then switch back to clean diesel about 15 minutes before shutdown, and run it flat out at max temp for the last few minutes. That cleans soot off the glowplug mesh to be ready for the next start. Also, it's fairly critical to use the burner intake filter as it creates a pressure balance for the burn chamber ensuring a correct AFR. I've had about three years trouble free with mine, although I did buy a spare glowplug, a gasket set and stainless steel burn chamber, expecting one to fail at some point. It still gets through the waste oil over a winter and offsets my low running cost by another 50% so I'm happy with that mix. I've heard of people doing 1/3rd diesel to 2/3rds waste oil, but it would still require clean diesel to get started in cold weather. Cheers.
This is basically the same method used to run diesel vehicles off of waste vegetable oil. The only other difference is some kits have tank heaters for the oil to make it flow better.
Pre-heat your oils, it'll work and don't need mixing. In the old days, people running oils on old diesel engines used to wrap copper coils close to the exhaust.
If you'd read the instructions, they helpfully request you set the fuel pump at a particular angle. This helps stop the pump get an air lock due to the cavitation bubbles being drawn in.
The pump angle is correct, two tanks one with dirty fuel, and one with clean diesel, start on the clean run on dirty, and shut down for 10mins on clean. Try to keep dirty fuel oil etc warm. Don't let the Law catch you as it is becoming outlawed due to pollution concerns. Try making an oil burner from an old gas cylinder.
Typically these kits should have one. I installed three of these kits so far, and each and every one of them had one. No filter before the pump means the pump will die soon.
Need two fuel tanks. One with straight diesel for start up and shut down, and another 50/50 to run on. Elevate both above the machine and switch using valves. This being said, these things are very fuel efficient, so the risk vs. reward may or may not be in your favor. Will likely get a LOT of carbon build up in the combustion chamber when running oil.
We push ATF thru the fuel systems on setups without emissions controls because it's basically detergent and lubricant. I wonder if blending diesel and ATF and running that once in awhile would make this work. Also if look into using ATF in all your small engines before storage it's a great old school trick for keeping everything maintained.
I picked one up and it works great. I watched a ton of reviews and product reviews. Its an oil furnace. Because of the small size and its tolerances, it can't run on everything. The combustion chamber does get overwhelmed. But it can overheat. Set the fuel pump to a low "pulse" and find a dilution rate that works. They will run around 24 hours on a gallon of fuel. Also keep the battery charged. The glow plug is the biggest draw on the battery.
@@phillipsmiley5930 That's good but a power cut will cause the control board to melt, i would recommend an AGM battery with a '7 stage' eBay charger that can be left plugged in and on.
@@markpearcey-ph5nh The pump has nothing to do with it. These aren't diesel engines, they're burners and won't ever run for any length of time on anything other than diesel or kerosene no matter what anyone tries to tell you
Thanks for the video, most people who use waste oil for fuel dilute it 9 parts oil and 1 part gasoline. Look fwd to the rest of the videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Using 100% diesel to start it and to stop it helps alot. They come from the factory set at a certain air fuel ratio set for 100% diesel. With different fuels you will need different air fuel ratios in order to burn cleanly and keep from clogging the glow plug screen, and also the hard to clean mesh just inside the burn chamber. If your controller allows it, some don't, you can get into the secret menu which will allow you to change the air fuel ratio through the pump speed and fan speed. There are UA-cam videos on how to do this. I highly suggest changing the air fuel ratio in order to keep from having to disassemble and clean it often. I bought one of the aluminum cased bread loaf sized ones in order to do the same thing, I just haven't spent the time to get it up and going yet. I have a lot of 20W50 from my Peterbuilt that I have been collecting.
Mine quit after running for 8hrs continuously and just smokes with raw diesel coming out the exhaust. I had some old off road diesel it would smoke in start up switched to kerosene I had here and it worked great. Got good clean fresh diesel in it now and it fails to ignite. Just smokes. As far as your concerned with the diesel and waste oil. I'd mix it and as suggested run it on 3. I think it over heats at 6 and messes up the burner and or the ignitor and has issues reigniting. Even a shot of ether won't get it going.
Most engine oils nowadays are synthetic, they're designed not to burn. At most what you're doing is just boiling it off while burning diesel, that's why you require pure diesel or kero at start up and shut down. I've tried many times and it failed pretty soon. Used mineral oil will burn but nowadays difficult to find as everyone using synthetic
@@NileshKumar-uf4vh I disagree. After extensive research on another topic, I found that most so-called "synthetic" oil is not really synthetic, but just very clean mineral oil. I first heard of Mobil1 synthetic oil in the mid-eighties where I was surprised it claimed to last for 24000 miles. This was in the days of 3000 mile/3 month oil changes. Now that, was real synthetic oil. A couple years later, Castrol came out with a much cheaper oil that they called synthetic, but wasn't. So of course Mobil1 took them to court. Unfortunately Mobil1 lost the case, and consumers have been confused ever since. Now, in order to compete, all of the oil companies are making very clean mineral oil that they are calling synthetic, including Mobil1. There is still real synthetic oil out there, but it's much more expensive, it's much harder to find, and you have to know what you are doing. Regular engine oil is called group 2 oil. The fake synthetic oil is called group 3 oil. The real synthetic oil is called group 4 oil. Group 5 oil is an ester based oil typically used for refrigerators and air conditioners etc. When was the last time you changed your oil in your air conditioner? There is a company called Red Line that makes ester based automotive oils. In case anyone is interested, If you really want to keep your engine alive for a very, very long time, you need to keep your oil extremely clean. Normal oil filters only filter down to 30 microns or so. If you add an on board oil centrifuge, you can "polish" your oil down to about 2/10 of a micron. It can be plumbed into your engine's oiling system fairly easily, and the best part is there's nothing to replace. To clean it, just remove one fastener by hand, disassemble it, scrape out the waste, and reassemble, all in about 2 minutes. Last I knew there was a company who made them called Auto Win. You can also get them from Pennsylvania biodiesel supply. They have a UA-cam video that explains how it works.
Doesn't work beyond 30 hours - it will fail to restart. The glow plug won't be able to initiate ignition., Even if you go as low as 60% waste oil & 40% fresh fuel, the heater will still crap out. Some will tell you different but they're spoofing. You will have to go through a process to get it to re-fire even using clean fresh fuel. That process is Dull. Run it on fresh diesel, turn it down to setting 3 - it will run great & economically - these aren't built to cope with waste oil. They crap the bed rapido & will do your head in.
You can leave it running on waste oil but not at even setting 3 or 3Hz. Two is just perfect. The oil is more viscouse, thus, it is burning much longer than diesel and it has a bit more Joules when burning. Mixture of 50/50 is way to go. With 50/50 mixture you can go all the way up with intake filter attached, too much oxygen means too much heat and it will overheat overtime.
One guy had a dual tank setup where he started it on straight kerosene then after the startup he switched over to his waste oil mix, then switched back to clean fuel for the shutdown. Don’t know how much time this buys but it seemed like a solid compromise.
Nice video. We are having single digit weather so I fired up my old kerosine heater, to make sure it was still working. It's been sitting for 8 years in the garage. The temperature fluctuated from -10 to 130. I've always called B.S. when people claim old fuel won't burn. The electric start wouldn't work, but the old batteries were corroded and even though I replaced them, I think there is corrosion on the terminals, so I used a lighter. Works great. This is an emergency heater, and I figure I can always take fuel from my truck if I was in a hard spot. :)
I run a similar heater using 50/50 waste motor oil and diesel, it's run for a couple of years but recently made the noise you're getting at around 14.30 minutes in. I had to clean out the burn chamber inside as it was seriously clogged up with unburnt stuff, runs fine again now but I think it'll either need cleaning every couple of winters or being switched to pure diesel 15 minutes before shutdown to clean the burn chamber each time.
Really liked the intro, very cool and funny and no long messing around - trust me, I watch a lot of youtube and I can tell the difference. Number two I would like to adress is that I liked and subscribed because I believe in supporting newcomers here instead of all the channels with their millions of views and subscribers.. all of them started small. Ok, I will now continue watching.. keep it up!! I would also recommend first mixing it 50:50 and then do some basic filtration with a paper filter just to get the worst junk out. Also have a look if your diesel heater comes with a fuel filter in line after the tank, if not retrofit one, they are cheap
since so much heat escapes through the exhaust, it is worth expanding it further, making something like a radiator, or maybe using an old radiator from the car as an exhaust, which will absorb the heat and this heat will remain in the room And finally, just put the pipe outside
A modern plastic car radiator would obviously melt. And, even on a conventional brass radiator, the solder would melt, and the radiator would then completely fall apart. The exhaust temperatures on these units, especially once up to optimal operating temperature, are quite high. Very poor idea.
I'd love to see you properly filter at least a couple gallons of oil and then try it in steps: 25% oil in diesel, 50% oil, 75% oil, then (if it's still working) 100% oil. Trying to run it on a mix of oil, soot, metal shavings, dirt, crumbled leaves, gasoline residue, and condensed water is too many variables and probably a bad idea in the first place.
The nozzle that sprays the fuel is made for diesel and oil to think to push threw it, the nozzle for used oil is set up with air siphon, to push oil threw. In order for you to be able to push oil threw the nozzle and for oil to burn, you have to thin it out, usually 50/50 is the best, 50 oil and 50 diesel. That will allow the oil to push threw the fuel pump and threw the nozzle, and will be able to burn efficiently in the heater, it will also keep from carbon up the burn chamber.
I bought one of these last year and it's good to see you've done exactly what I thought about doing by running it on oil mine's still brand new so I learned a lot from your video😂
I heard about dudes running used motor oil in diesels by cutting the oil with 5-15% kerosene. I burn my used oil in my wife's car, but when we replace that I'll need another option lol. Subbed for more 240 references.
I think the motor oil will clog up the nozzle where it 'atomizes' the fuel for burning. Noticing how hot the exhaust is, I would make a heat exchanger (coiled up metal tubing) for the exhaust with a fan behind it before it goes outside. That would improve the efficiency and heat up time of your shop :) I have a dyna flow torpedo heater (80k btu) that I run off diesel and works the treat in my 1.5 car garage.
it prob will. I have have an self made oil burner and i get slag in the bottom what glows red when oil is being burned and some black ash like substance what does not glow when heated by the flames what i guess is carbon or something similar im planning to mix that black stuff with some black matte paint and see what happens (using my old spray gun)
Combustion chamber was flooded with oil because the flame died and the heater kept pumping for a few minutes. Try filtering your oil before feeding it to the heater, run the oil delivery pipe close to the exhaust pipe for heating, that ought to help.
My kind of video! I love watching people try things out that many of us only think of. You save us the trouble and DESERVE a LIKE and SUBSCRIBE! Very entertaining too! Thanks man!
for the costs of the units, it is worth trying things out. I have been thinking of getting one and maybe trying to mix diesel and cooking oils. Thanks for sharing
The hammer through the wall worked perfectly, I don't just give out subs to new people in the first few seconds of videos. The clipping before the end of the word "smash" did it for me. Good job. -"Ummm...I don't care, really." YASS QUEEN SLAY. God that is such a vibe. This whole video is a vibe. -Screen touch for texture of product -Drinking the cursed coconut lacroix -Hammer is a hole saw -vERveVEVror Keep up the excellent work, I'll be poking through your catalog.
I appreciate the follow, I’m having more fun making videos as I adjust to knowing there’s always haters not matter what you do. Positive comments like this mean a lot and keep me going. Thank you :)
The catalyst screen plugged up on mine almost identical to your red one with corn oil and diesel mix. I took apart the combustion chamber and cleaned the catalyst screen. Been running good now over a month. Only using diesel now
Ours will go 16 hours on 1 gallon of red diesel --- and the same on 50/50 diesel/used oil mixed...which makes it roughly 1/2 gal of diesel per night...and we develop plenty of used oil...but basically, we use about 15 gal of diesel per month on each one...and we've changed out the one gallon tank for a 200 gallon tank where we put our used oil and filter it, agitate it and blend in diesel --- but 100 gal of diesel and 100 gal of waste oil last all year here in Colorado. 100 gal red(+/-$3/gal - $300...used oil is free...so we're getting about $1/day in usage costs. We've now upgraded to 4 more of the newer Vevor heaters at a cost of +/- 200 ea., and all four are heating our 40x60 shop(with 20 feet ceiling and ceiling fans) --- a lot better than the 20 some year old waste heater we can no longer get parts for. Anyway...the four heaters don't work as hard and so far, we're going through the same x 4...so 2gal per night diesel - 0r 60 gal a month...basically $200/mo heating costs...
The button is pressed :) I would suggest a 50-50 mix. It's what being recommended for cars. They also start and shut off on straight diesel to not clog up injectors. Separate tank with valves is needed fo dat. But maybe you already know this :) Thank you.
Thanks for the Sub! I know it would be easier doing a 50/50 mix, but I have access to ALOT of waste oil. This is my tinkering before my Delica and Cummins get straight waste oil
It needs to be filtered for aure. You've got bits of metal in the oil, which is what the oil filter in your engine blocks. I'd filter it with a good, tight filter media, and then do a 50/50 diesel/motor oil mix.
@@greenaum yes.. But remember that rockwool is basically smashed fiberglass. It'll shed fibers that will destroy the fuel pump over time. Edit: Wait. No. Rockwool is basalt and steel slag spun into fibers and compressed.
@SteinFab Garage 1. Oil has too much shit in it that creates ash. There is a non-serviceable mesh "gauze" inside the top of the combustion chamber that will carbon up and cause exactly the issues you're having. 2. In the short term, you can remove the glow plug and pull out the mesh screen that sizes around it, clean it with a torch and reinstall it. Likely it has fouled up from running straight waste oil. 30-50% will not plug that screen generally. 3. If you remove the combustion chamber and look inside of it, there is likely a large deposit of ash building up at the far end (top) of the tube, around the piece that looks like a splined axle shaft. If can be cleaned a bit with a pick, but once this starts happening the gauze I mentioned in 1 is pretty well pooched and you're best off to buy a new combustion chamber. 4. Running any substantial cut of engine oil will eventually cause the unit to do this. ~30% is probably about the maximum I would bother with, but only if you don't mind taking this thing apart frequently and have a free supply of used oil as an incentive to use it. 5. Vevor is about the worst brand of diesel heater. They kind of just send out thousands of units per batch and there is no standardization between batches a, b, c, d, etc so you're getting whatever parts they had available. My Vevor is a piece of shit whereas an even cheaper unit off Amazon runs flawlessly in my jet boat. 6. How is it a piece of shit, what can be different? Everything from the combustion chamber itself, the gaskets, glow plug, fuel pump, muffler, controller and ECU, fuel line, case material, etc. There is a lot that is different between units. 7. An Australian guy sells a controller called an Afterburner which is WiFi, Bluetooth, etc. Easy to tune the mixture, etc with it too. That said, all motherboard for the past couple of years don't allow low-end tuning any longer. Low basically = 1/3rd of Max fuel and fan rpm... 8. Hammer another pipe through the wall for the intake. If it flames out it will fill the garage with smoke as now know. Having the intake inside also causes a pressure drop in the garage which is balanced by cold air from outside, coming inside.... 9. Aliexpress and Amazon have fuel pumps that have an integral screen in a sight glass you can see and service... It's a better pump than many of these units. Bubbles coming from the pump outlet are normal. 10. Any fluid that burns with a lot of ash will destroy the combustion chambers on these. I've run all kind of crap through mine, but diesel or diesel and gas is all that works... 11. Yes, it does run on gas.... Which is recommended in the winter to dilute your diesel with ~20% gasoline. Gasoline contains slightly less BTU, but you may not notice especially if you have two running. 12. Your fuel pump needs to be angled or it will not pump. ~45 degrees +/- 10 degrees is a good goal. It isn't that fussy, but horizontal will not work for sure. Good Luck.
Hi,im been used for 5 tanks,3 liter of diesel,2.5 liter of hydraulic oil and 0.5 grams of gasoline. All mixed well and heater work verry good,no smoke at all at start
About a year ago I saw a video on YT where a guy tested burning used oil. His final outcome to get the best burn was a 30% mix of old/used oil and 70% fresh diesel. I've not tried this but only speaking from what I've seen on YT. I look forward to your next video or sequal to this 😀
you hafta start it on Diesel, get it up to temperature, then switch to other fuels, it's best to switch back to pure diesel before shutting it off so it's only diesel for startup... once it's hot.. it won't care.. but the glow plug it uses fouls out with anything other than it's designed fuel source. use two tanks with a switchable fuel valve ( the oil needs to be a thin viscosity so the wimpy fuel pump will move it especially if it's cold when ya try to start it...so ya might need to blend it with diesel
I worked in a garage for a couple of years, we heated a 3 lift building with waste oil. Used an old homemade wood heater with a forced air blower, oil dripping onto an old truck brake drum. Also burned old transmission fluid and old gasoline mixed in. As soon as it got hot the exhaust burned completely clear without a trace of smoke. Fuel was gravity fed and drip was controlled by a small needle valve. As it heated up the drip got faster so you had to keep an eye on the temperature or it would began to glow, almost like looking at an X-ray. I wonder if I could mass market this system?
That is the old babbit style heater, popular in Canada and some parts of Europe and Russia. I have one made from a gas cylinder (upper chamber) and a disk rotor with a saucepan below for the burner. The oil drips in through a hole in the disk and a fan pumps in air. I can make that thing glow like the setting sun if I let enough oil flow in. Once up to temp it emits no smoke or fumes. I recently modified it by ditching the fickle oil dripper and replacing it with a diesel heater pump to inject the oil and I drive it with a 555 timing circuit to set cycle speed along with a flame detector to cut fuel in a flame out situation, it's now much more stable once started and I can let it run for days.
Yea, my dad had one in our garage. It worked great, but you definitely had to watch the flow. Also had to watch what waste fuel you threw into the tank. For some reason, it settles and separated. Which lead to a situation where the thick oil burned off and the lighter oil flowed faster and we weren't aware... it damn near turn the shop into an oven, melted and warped all kinds of shit. Lol.
Yea, my dad had one in our garage. It worked great, but you definitely had to watch the flow. Also had to watch what waste fuel you threw into the tank. For some reason, it settles and separated. Which lead to a situation where the thick oil burned off and the lighter oil flowed faster and we weren't aware... it damn near turn the shop into an oven, melted and warped all kinds of shit. Lol.
I used to run my 5 cylinder Mercedes benz used Canola oil ,It was not quite as much joules of energy as dieselfuel and after about a month or so of filtering the cooking oil through a 5 micron maple syrup press it became hard to start without using starter fluid.I mixed diesel 50/50 with the canola oil and it was a bit better but I think all the tiny carbon molicules of food built up arond the rigs and made them stick loosing compression.These cars actually run on compression Iginition. Thinking about your problemI'd start of by filtering your used oil through a fine 5 micron filter and mixing it 40/50 with diesel and if you add like 10% gasoline premixing it well before you run it and also making sure the concoction is at room temp you will have much better results over the long term. Also getting a bigger ajustable fuel pump would be more reliable. I make a waste oil heater years ago and had a stainless pot Id put some used oil and paper to start up and get the pot hot ,then I used a spray gun shooting air and waste oil through a 2 inch pipe 4 feet up from the pot at the bottom of a water tank where the pot sat. I was to conclude that it worked well because you can have control of the fuel air mixture like you would paint.The draw back was you had to have your compressor running to maintain proper regulated air supply for the burn to be smoke free . Atomization with correct air supply is the I key.The spray gun tip is made of brass and changing tips after a couple weeks run time was nessisary unless you turned up the air presure to get the right mix for the worn spray gun tip. Unfortunately use oil has worn engine particulate and wears out the tip. If some how you could have a tip made of Corundum like a water jet cutting system It would last years. Idealy Id like to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel with a process called thermaldipolymerization and burn that in your heater . Im subscribed!
The stuck rings issue is likely from your organic oil polymerizing and basically gluing your rings in place. There's a load of documentation on running various raw organic oils as fuels and they have a nearly universal problem with that when burned in their raw forms in modern engines.. The rough numbers I have found seem to say that raw organic oils can't be used long-term in blends over 20 to 30% without that ring sticking and or injector clogging happening. Any ratios above that need to either be treated or converted into actual biodiesel.
At 17:50, it won't prime because the fuel pump is air-locked. You must mount the pump at an angle of at least 45 degrees with the outlet up, to get rid of air. Straight up with outlet up is best, because it gets all the air out. Air pockets in the pump are bad, because these areas are not lubricated, and can wear out fast. Another pump issue you are likely to get with this unfiltered oil is jamming up the pump. There are no O-rings in this pump. The piston is just an extremely close fit with the cylinder. Any little grit that gets through your paint filter could jam the piston, resulting in no oil, and a flame extinguished E-08 code.
Look into real garage style waste oil heaters. Check on what they do differently. Don't reinvent the wheel. A local guy made the paper years ago running a diesel VW on filtered fry oil. Twin tank, started on diesel. Heat from cooling system went into a heat exchanger and preheated the used fryer oil. The preheated (thinned oil) then was switched on and the car ran perfectly. Maybe wrapping tubing around exhaust to preheat might work. Still need to preheat to get it running from cold start (heat lamp?). Better pump would be needed. Fire extinguisher would be a great idea. Keep trying, don't burn your place down. Good Luck!
This is a magnificent idea. Thanks for the input. I’m trying to avoid twin tanking my Delica and Cummins, but it might need to be done. The exhaust heater is such a great idea I’ve never considered!!!
Just remember, if you heat the oil directly that it may start to char on the inside of the tube. Lack of flow will cause heat, heat may cause fire. Would be better to heat coolant in a tube and move the heated coolant to say a transmission cooler. No direct contact of oil to high heat source. Good luck.@@steinfabgarage
I’ve got 5 of these on my farm. Used oil causes you to have to rebuild the motor. Trust me. The manufacturing quality of these is what you expected… functional but finicky. Our plants and animals depend on the heat so straight diesel is the way to go for consistency
Apart from needing to clean it out more regularly, you need to know that the exhaust fumes can be toxic due to heavy metals that end up in it and carcinogenic due to the soot, so make sure they can't get into the workshop.
I’ve been using those heater for years on waste oil. The trick is have two tanks . One for startup like 15 min on diesel and the second one on 20% kerosene if you can .plumb the two tanks together to the pump and have a fuel shutoff for each tank. When the heater is hot switch from good diesel to waste/kerosene. I run it all year long in my shed with no issues. The only thing you have to do is disassemble it once every 3 month if you run it for long hours everyday and clean the chamber. Hope it helps
My dude, you are a man’s man. We don’t NEED no STINKING instructions! ...or correct tools. We just make stuff happen with whatever. Also, not afraid to break stuff just to see what happens. I am stepping up to be that 4th subscriber. PS - your landlord must love you 😄
I’ve had one for 4 years and I only paid 100 dollars back then for it. It heats my 30x30 garage to 65 degrees. I love it. The only thing I’ve had to do is open the unit up and clean it out put all new gaskets and glow plug in and it was good to go. And I only had to do that because I was running it on a battery and it would just die and when you do that it don’t run fan until the flame is out so it causes a lot of mess inside lol. But the rebuild kit is only less than $15..
Funny you mentioned to take the cover off and check all the connectors. I took mine off and immediately found the fuel line has a kink in it where they have it going up at an angle and the line turns to go down.
I noticed that the oil jugs you were using said synthetic on them. If this is what you run all the time, so your used oil is actually synthetic, that could be your problem. Synthetic oil does not burn well at ALL due to a much higher flashpoint. Remember the oild Mobil one oil in the frypan commercial?
The exhaust tubing isn't to keep things from burning at all. It is to prevent carbon monoxide build up in your room. The deadly gas that doesn't have an order. I haven't completed the video but I hope you have a carbon monoxide detector in your room. The muffler as you figured isn't needed. Stay safe.
Used oil should be mixed with gasoline to make diesel, start at 10% gas to 90% oil and increase gas percentage from there. Research black diesel for more info
So I have the same cheap heater but I had an issue with my pump. My heater is not fully enclosed but the pump I mounted at a slight angle. I kept getting e8 error and after doing research I found a video of a guy with one like yours saying the pump needs to be vertical. Meaning the input is on the bottom output is on top. Once I did that I never had an issue unless I run out of fuel
You can buy burners that are made strictly for waste oil, they are kind of expensive, but many truck shop's use them. Cheaper than having someone haul their waste oil off. Plus they can heat a shop very well, they use about one and a half gallons per hour.
you may find that you'll have to clean the burn chamber a little more often than if you were running straight diesel, you'll get a lot of carbon (and crap) build up.
Great video my friend I instal & service these machines and only run all mine on heating oil ( kerosene) with a capful of 2 stroke oil they run very clean and hotter! It costs me around 65p a ltr when I open them up to service 9 out of 10 times the chamber is clean with no need to do anything but change gaskets. Nice video though.
I'd think you could legally run it on heating oil which is cheaper because it doesn't have the motor tax that is on diesel. It's pretty much the same thing. I mean, you're using it for heat, not to power a truck. I don't know if you can get heating oil anywhere or just where it's used.
You're awesome bro, this is engineering gold. I'm subscribing and me and my buddies are going to be watching your future exploits. I sincerely hope your decisive attitude earns a good living for you. It should.
I filter my waste oil with gauze and mix 2/3 fuel, 1/3 oil. Fill the tank with diesel first, and follow with the oil. This works fine and won’t damage the heater and your fuel cost is cut by 33%. And the unit seems to run more economically and hotter heat output with the muffler installed.
What if you ran the exhaust through a radiator or some type of heat exchanger before it went outside and then blew a fan across it, seems like you could squeeze a little more heat out of it.
Got mine yesterday and it's heating my greenhouse nicely at night. Right now it's running on diesel but I plan on having a second tank mixed 50/50 oil diesel to burn but have switched to diesel for warm up and shut down. I also got a vevor Bluetooth to beat the house with, but won't need with oil mixture in that one. Very interested in seeing what you will experiment on your heater and results.
Run diesel if you don’t want it to break, I’ve broke 3 more. Still working on a solution. If you do run waste, new burners are 22$ on Amazon. More coming once something is successful
I've had one for about 18 months, I found that a ratio of 9 diesel to 1 cooking oil is the max before it starts dripping from the bottom. Unless you have an endless supply of oil you'll need diesel at some point so might as well make it easier for the heater by diluting oil with that ratio of oil/diesel.
Short term they will run on any oil you can find as long as it’s thin enough. The combustion chamber however will soot up over time and it’ll need cleaning out. The intake needs piping outside too in case there’s a failure, as you’ve found out, fumes pump out of it when it shuts down… Get rid of the case and small fuel tank and just have the main unit in your shed and have a larger tank outside. That way when you inevitably spill diesel or oil it won’t stink out your shed. Mine is still working perfectly after 4 years.
For pete sake. Not another one trying to burn waste oil in a diesel heater? Then posting a video when it doesn't work very well. Really? Its a diesel heater, not an oil heater. This has to be no. 101 video where it does not work long term without plugging the glow plug hole and the burner plate. No common sense in this shop. Will it ever end?
So many variables to consider here. First and foremost, everyone keeps talking about filtering and forgetting about moisture. Your oil needs to be ran thru a water fuel separator and filtered. A centrifuge would be Best. Second it doesn't appear that the pump is strong enough to pump the oil so cut it with 20%rug to thin the oil. Also the fuel pump is sitting almost vertically, it would probably work better horizontally. I have a bit of experience with running wmo in diesels and i can tell you that some older diesels eat it with no problems and others require a lil leg work to get it to cooperate. Same is True with Park heaters
I subscribed - because you are REAL.... LOL! And I like being warm in the winter and we are thinking of installing one of these units in Northern Nevada. Thanks for the video!
An infrared thermometet will read very low on that shiny exhaust pipe. And possibly off on the aluminum heat sink/radiator in the heater. Paint shiny surfaces black. Use high temp or header paint on the exhaust pipe. Flat black dries fast if you're in a hurry.
What i have done in the previously is mix a 10% rug which is petrol with the waste oil prior to using it in the burner. You want to let it settle for at least three days before adding it to the heater. A sediment will drop out you do not want this sediment to drop out inside the fuel canister do you want to get rid of it if you wish to heat the oil before it hits the fuel pump, you can use the exhaust heat to do so with a heat exchangeheat exchange
Grandpa had an old diesel heater in his workshop, i really don't know if it was custom/homemade or a full on product but it was old looking and felt like a deathtrap when i was just a kid, he would keep it mostly diesel but wed pour basically anything that was flammable. The tank smelt horrible and the exhaust smelt even worse, but damn we were cozy, it was warmer than the house sometimes
Why am I not surprised the unit says 'no'...I'm guessing the unit has a jet that is set for the viscosity of diesel so a further guess is that you need to blend and or heat what ever fuel you chose so it matches that viscosity or near enough for it to cope. Perhaps changing the tank for a metal one with a thermostat controlled heater in it could be a good start and replace the hopeless fuel hoses with something heat resistant. Also there's a ton of waste heat lost via the exhaust that could be used. Either way for the money they'd pretty good but seeing the built quality I too have bought a spare!
The heater doesn't have any form of jet, a set amount of fuel is squirted in which makes its way to a large gauze which is used to increase surface area to evaporate the diesel. This happens in a vortex chamber. The problem with using anything other than diesel is that the gauze gets clogged. Very difficult to get properly clean.
I was a diesel mechanic for 15 years our trucks had espar heaters (same thing) we had to clean the carbon build off the burner thats with ultra low sulfur diesel you will have tons of carbon build up but its an easy job id definitely thin it with diesel.
You need way bigger exhaust hole in the wall with fireproof material. Those are known to cause fires. A heater core makes a great heat exchanger as well.
You should look into getting a double wall pipe for the outside wall termination. That exhaust is hot enough to start a fire from the building materials it touches.
With the code 1688 you can enter the menu and adjust the pump speed and fan speed, this will allow compensation for alternative fuels or higher altitude etc. There is no factory reset function though so make a note of the std settings before you mess them up! I have found the green pumps to be more tolerant of alternative fuels than the ones with black plastic. My black pumps both failed when i switched to home heating oil (kerosene) but have both run fine for years now on both diesel and kerosene with the green pumps.
It WILL get coked up. The atomizer screen, the tiny air ports close to it and the burn chamber will all need cleaning. Having said that, it's not too difficult to disassemble and oven cleaner works well. Once it starts getting coked up it restricts air flow, which in turn reduces temps, which makes it coke up even more until it either wont light, or even extinguishes itself. Better to start at 1hz too until it's warm to avoid flooding which is why it's leaking.
Run your combustion air intake hose to the outside and reconnect it. Nice cold air into the combustion chamber and you are no longer sucking hot air out of the room and blowing it outside via the exhaust
Cutting WMO with diesel doesn't get the viscosity down where it needs to be. Thats why I cut it with gasoline for my truck. 15-20% got me great results.
Young man. You have good communication skills and taking away bad manners you presented an interesting issue. A piece of advice if you want more audience for your videos. Keep it professional, don't swear or show fingers. Respect your viewers! No need for those things. I am out but I may come back and subscribe if you can handle constructive criticism!!
I run 1L old gasoline to 3L old oil. I start the heater with some propane in the intake and once it’s running I run it on high and it’s worked great for me
Mix old filtered cooking oil (if you deep fat fry food) at a 50/50 ratio too. In cold weather, I've heard people using 50/50 Kerosene/Diesel to keep the Diesel from thickening.
I run two tanks with mine, I used two solenoid valves to select which tank I draw from. Tank one contains pure diesel and the other is 50/50 waste oil mixed with diesel (an old 500l oil heater tank). I start the heater with straight diesel then after it reaches running temp I switch it over to the mix and it runs fine (and clean). I then switch back to clean diesel about 15 minutes before shutdown, and run it flat out at max temp for the last few minutes. That cleans soot off the glowplug mesh to be ready for the next start. Also, it's fairly critical to use the burner intake filter as it creates a pressure balance for the burn chamber ensuring a correct AFR. I've had about three years trouble free with mine, although I did buy a spare glowplug, a gasket set and stainless steel burn chamber, expecting one to fail at some point. It still gets through the waste oil over a winter and offsets my low running cost by another 50% so I'm happy with that mix. I've heard of people doing 1/3rd diesel to 2/3rds waste oil, but it would still require clean diesel to get started in cold weather.
Cheers.
thanks for your comment
Great idea thanks for posting this!
that would be a banger video!
This is basically the same method used to run diesel vehicles off of waste vegetable oil. The only other difference is some kits have tank heaters for the oil to make it flow better.
Very smart!!
Pre-heat your oils, it'll work and don't need mixing.
In the old days, people running oils on old diesel engines used to wrap copper coils close to the exhaust.
If you'd read the instructions, they helpfully request you set the fuel pump at a particular angle. This helps stop the pump get an air lock due to the cavitation bubbles being drawn in.
This. The pump only works if it's at least 30º upward angled. It'll get airlocked if it's on it's side (as can be seen in the video)
nah it's fine.
The pump needs to be at 45 degrees.
The pump angle is correct, two tanks one with dirty fuel, and one with clean diesel, start on the clean run on dirty, and shut down for 10mins on clean. Try to keep dirty fuel oil etc warm. Don't let the Law catch you as it is becoming outlawed due to pollution concerns. Try making an oil burner from an old gas cylinder.
“Sometimes the kids assembling them are tired and forget to tighten the clamps” 😂
That only happens when their slave drivers tazer batteries go flat
That is the same problem they are having in Arkansas now days.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Truth!
Child labor
I was wondering if it would burn the waste oil, so glad you took the time to make the video and also sacrifice your unit to do the test !!! Thanks !!!
highly recommend anyone running these units put in an inline filter before the little pump.
Typically these kits should have one. I installed three of these kits so far, and each and every one of them had one. No filter before the pump means the pump will die soon.
Need two fuel tanks. One with straight diesel for start up and shut down, and another 50/50 to run on. Elevate both above the machine and switch using valves. This being said, these things are very fuel efficient, so the risk vs. reward may or may not be in your favor. Will likely get a LOT of carbon build up in the combustion chamber when running oil.
We push ATF thru the fuel systems on setups without emissions controls because it's basically detergent and lubricant. I wonder if blending diesel and ATF and running that once in awhile would make this work. Also if look into using ATF in all your small engines before storage it's a great old school trick for keeping everything maintained.
I picked one up and it works great. I watched a ton of reviews and product reviews. Its an oil furnace. Because of the small size and its tolerances, it can't run on everything. The combustion chamber does get overwhelmed. But it can overheat. Set the fuel pump to a low "pulse" and find a dilution rate that works. They will run around 24 hours on a gallon of fuel. Also keep the battery charged. The glow plug is the biggest draw on the battery.
a surplus X Box 360 PSU can power them, see videos on how to used them as 12v DC psu
@@phillipsmiley5930 That's good but a power cut will cause the control board to melt, i would recommend an AGM battery with a '7 stage' eBay charger that can be left plugged in and on.
How about a solar powered battery tender
What if you made a fuel tank and mounted it much higher than the pump, would the gravity help pump old engine oil ???, could be worth a try.
@@markpearcey-ph5nh The pump has nothing to do with it. These aren't diesel engines, they're burners and won't ever run for any length of time on anything other than diesel or kerosene no matter what anyone tries to tell you
2:1 diesel/oil ratio works fine. I also use separate tanks to perform starting and stopping fire with 100% diesel, to prevent clogs on burner screen.
Thanks for the video, most people who use waste oil for fuel dilute it 9 parts oil and 1 part gasoline. Look fwd to the rest of the videos. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I agree. Gasoline will thin out the heavy oil much better than diesel.
Using 100% diesel to start it and to stop it helps alot.
They come from the factory set at a certain air fuel ratio set for 100% diesel. With different fuels you will need different air fuel ratios in order to burn cleanly and keep from clogging the glow plug screen, and also the hard to clean mesh just inside the burn chamber.
If your controller allows it, some don't, you can get into the secret menu which will allow you to change the air fuel ratio through the pump speed and fan speed. There are UA-cam videos on how to do this.
I highly suggest changing the air fuel ratio in order to keep from having to disassemble and clean it often.
I bought one of the aluminum cased bread loaf sized ones in order to do the same thing, I just haven't spent the time to get it up and going yet.
I have a lot of 20W50 from my Peterbuilt that I have been collecting.
Mine quit after running for 8hrs continuously and just smokes with raw diesel coming out the exhaust. I had some old off road diesel it would smoke in start up switched to kerosene I had here and it worked great. Got good clean fresh diesel in it now and it fails to ignite. Just smokes.
As far as your concerned with the diesel and waste oil. I'd mix it and as suggested run it on 3. I think it over heats at 6 and messes up the burner and or the ignitor and has issues reigniting. Even a shot of ether won't get it going.
Most engine oils nowadays are synthetic, they're designed not to burn.
At most what you're doing is just boiling it off while burning diesel, that's why you require pure diesel or kero at start up and shut down.
I've tried many times and it failed pretty soon.
Used mineral oil will burn but nowadays difficult to find as everyone using synthetic
@@NileshKumar-uf4vh I disagree. After extensive research on another topic, I found that most so-called "synthetic" oil is not really synthetic, but just very clean mineral oil.
I first heard of Mobil1 synthetic oil in the mid-eighties where I was surprised it claimed to last for 24000 miles. This was in the days of 3000 mile/3 month oil changes. Now that, was real synthetic oil.
A couple years later, Castrol came out with a much cheaper oil that they called synthetic, but wasn't. So of course Mobil1 took them to court. Unfortunately Mobil1 lost the case, and consumers have been confused ever since.
Now, in order to compete, all of the oil companies are making very clean mineral oil that they are calling synthetic, including Mobil1.
There is still real synthetic oil out there, but it's much more expensive, it's much harder to find, and you have to know what you are doing.
Regular engine oil is called group 2 oil. The fake synthetic oil is called group 3 oil. The real synthetic oil is called group 4 oil. Group 5 oil is an ester based oil typically used for refrigerators and air conditioners etc. When was the last time you changed your oil in your air conditioner? There is a company called Red Line that makes ester based automotive oils.
In case anyone is interested, If you really want to keep your engine alive for a very, very long time, you need to keep your oil extremely clean. Normal oil filters only filter down to 30 microns or so. If you add an on board oil centrifuge, you can "polish" your oil down to about 2/10 of a micron. It can be plumbed into your engine's oiling system fairly easily, and the best part is there's nothing to replace. To clean it, just remove one fastener by hand, disassemble it, scrape out the waste, and reassemble, all in about 2 minutes.
Last I knew there was a company who made them called Auto Win. You can also get them from Pennsylvania biodiesel supply. They have a UA-cam video that explains how it works.
Doesn't work beyond 30 hours - it will fail to restart. The glow plug won't be able to initiate ignition., Even if you go as low as 60% waste oil & 40% fresh fuel, the heater will still crap out. Some will tell you different but they're spoofing. You will have to go through a process to get it to re-fire even using clean fresh fuel. That process is Dull. Run it on fresh diesel, turn it down to setting 3 - it will run great & economically - these aren't built to cope with waste oil. They crap the bed rapido & will do your head in.
Haha I did this to mine and it did all the same as this one 😅 so I replaced the glow plud now she working again
Lmfao been using used oil for about 10 years with my heater. Runs fine.
Mine works good but I always start on diesel
You can leave it running on waste oil but not at even setting 3 or 3Hz. Two is just perfect. The oil is more viscouse, thus, it is burning much longer than diesel and it has a bit more Joules when burning. Mixture of 50/50 is way to go. With 50/50 mixture you can go all the way up with intake filter attached, too much oxygen means too much heat and it will overheat overtime.
One guy had a dual tank setup where he started it on straight kerosene then after the startup he switched over to his waste oil mix, then switched back to clean fuel for the shutdown.
Don’t know how much time this buys but it seemed like a solid compromise.
Nice video. We are having single digit weather so I fired up my old kerosine heater, to make sure it was still working. It's been sitting for 8 years in the garage. The temperature fluctuated from -10 to 130. I've always called B.S. when people claim old fuel won't burn. The electric start wouldn't work, but the old batteries were corroded and even though I replaced them, I think there is corrosion on the terminals, so I used a lighter. Works great.
This is an emergency heater, and I figure I can always take fuel from my truck if I was in a hard spot. :)
I run a similar heater using 50/50 waste motor oil and diesel, it's run for a couple of years but recently made the noise you're getting at around 14.30 minutes in. I had to clean out the burn chamber inside as it was seriously clogged up with unburnt stuff, runs fine again now but I think it'll either need cleaning every couple of winters or being switched to pure diesel 15 minutes before shutdown to clean the burn chamber each time.
Really liked the intro, very cool and funny and no long messing around - trust me, I watch a lot of youtube and I can tell the difference.
Number two I would like to adress is that I liked and subscribed because I believe in supporting newcomers here instead of all the channels with their millions of views and subscribers.. all of them started small. Ok, I will now continue watching.. keep it up!!
I would also recommend first mixing it 50:50 and then do some basic filtration with a paper filter just to get the worst junk out. Also have a look if your diesel heater comes with a fuel filter in line after the tank, if not retrofit one, they are cheap
since so much heat escapes through the exhaust, it is worth expanding it further, making something like a radiator, or maybe using an old radiator from the car as an exhaust, which will absorb the heat and this heat will remain in the room And finally, just put the pipe outside
Definitely. Can put a heat exchanger for water heating, etc, etc.
A modern plastic car radiator would obviously melt. And, even on a conventional brass radiator, the solder would melt, and the radiator would then completely fall apart. The exhaust temperatures on these units, especially once up to optimal operating temperature, are quite high.
Very poor idea.
I'd love to see you properly filter at least a couple gallons of oil and then try it in steps: 25% oil in diesel, 50% oil, 75% oil, then (if it's still working) 100% oil. Trying to run it on a mix of oil, soot, metal shavings, dirt, crumbled leaves, gasoline residue, and condensed water is too many variables and probably a bad idea in the first place.
Your patience and attention to detail earned a sub!
I like your conversational style. You are your “authentic self”.
You rock bro.
The nozzle that sprays the fuel is made for diesel and oil to think to push threw it, the nozzle for used oil is set up with air siphon, to push oil threw. In order for you to be able to push oil threw the nozzle and for oil to burn, you have to thin it out, usually 50/50 is the best, 50 oil and 50 diesel. That will allow the oil to push threw the fuel pump and threw the nozzle, and will be able to burn efficiently in the heater, it will also keep from carbon up the burn chamber.
*through
I bought one of these last year and it's good to see you've done exactly what I thought about doing by running it on oil mine's still brand new so I learned a lot from your video😂
I heard about dudes running used motor oil in diesels by cutting the oil with 5-15% kerosene. I burn my used oil in my wife's car, but when we replace that I'll need another option lol.
Subbed for more 240 references.
I run waste oil mixed with gasoline in mine, no problems whatsoever
What ratio are you using? How many gallons have you put through it?
"No problems whatsoever".
Not until the combustion chamber is full of ash..
i got like 70 gal mix of gas/diesel i wonder ?????
I think the motor oil will clog up the nozzle where it 'atomizes' the fuel for burning. Noticing how hot the exhaust is, I would make a heat exchanger (coiled up metal tubing) for the exhaust with a fan behind it before it goes outside. That would improve the efficiency and heat up time of your shop :)
I have a dyna flow torpedo heater (80k btu) that I run off diesel and works the treat in my 1.5 car garage.
it prob will. I have have an self made oil burner and i get slag in the bottom what glows red when oil is being burned and some black ash like substance what does not glow when heated by the flames what i guess is carbon or something similar im planning to mix that black stuff with some black matte paint and see what happens (using my old spray gun)
Combustion chamber was flooded with oil because the flame died and the heater kept pumping for a few minutes. Try filtering your oil before feeding it to the heater, run the oil delivery pipe close to the exhaust pipe for heating, that ought to help.
what's the point? after that much work you're not really saving money.
My kind of video! I love watching people try things out that many of us only think of. You save us the trouble and DESERVE a LIKE and SUBSCRIBE! Very entertaining too! Thanks man!
for the costs of the units, it is worth trying things out. I have been thinking of getting one and maybe trying to mix diesel and cooking oils.
Thanks for sharing
The hammer through the wall worked perfectly, I don't just give out subs to new people in the first few seconds of videos. The clipping before the end of the word "smash" did it for me. Good job.
-"Ummm...I don't care, really." YASS QUEEN SLAY. God that is such a vibe. This whole video is a vibe.
-Screen touch for texture of product
-Drinking the cursed coconut lacroix
-Hammer is a hole saw
-vERveVEVror
Keep up the excellent work, I'll be poking through your catalog.
I appreciate the follow, I’m having more fun making videos as I adjust to knowing there’s always haters not matter what you do. Positive comments like this mean a lot and keep me going. Thank you :)
The catalyst screen plugged up on mine almost identical to your red one with corn oil and diesel mix. I took apart the combustion chamber and cleaned the catalyst screen. Been running good now over a month. Only using diesel now
Ours will go 16 hours on 1 gallon of red diesel --- and the same on 50/50 diesel/used oil mixed...which makes it roughly 1/2 gal of diesel per night...and we develop plenty of used oil...but basically, we use about 15 gal of diesel per month on each one...and we've changed out the one gallon tank for a 200 gallon tank where we put our used oil and filter it, agitate it and blend in diesel --- but 100 gal of diesel and 100 gal of waste oil last all year here in Colorado. 100 gal red(+/-$3/gal - $300...used oil is free...so we're getting about $1/day in usage costs. We've now upgraded to 4 more of the newer Vevor heaters at a cost of +/- 200 ea., and all four are heating our 40x60 shop(with 20 feet ceiling and ceiling fans) --- a lot better than the 20 some year old waste heater we can no longer get parts for. Anyway...the four heaters don't work as hard and so far, we're going through the same x 4...so 2gal per night diesel - 0r 60 gal a month...basically $200/mo heating costs...
The button is pressed :) I would suggest a 50-50 mix. It's what being recommended for cars. They also start and shut off on straight diesel to not clog up injectors. Separate tank with valves is needed fo dat. But maybe you already know this :) Thank you.
Thanks for the Sub! I know it would be easier doing a 50/50 mix, but I have access to ALOT of waste oil. This is my tinkering before my Delica and Cummins get straight waste oil
i have tried all of this. u have to run it on clean diesel or paraffin in the end or it will clog up. no way around as i can see
Unlike in a truck, you may not be in the shop to switch tanks when it goes into an error mode.
It needs to be filtered for aure. You've got bits of metal in the oil, which is what the oil filter in your engine blocks. I'd filter it with a good, tight filter media, and then do a 50/50 diesel/motor oil mix.
As far as filter medium, he's got all that rockwool he pulled out of his wall.
@@greenaum yes.. But remember that rockwool is basically smashed fiberglass. It'll shed fibers that will destroy the fuel pump over time.
Edit: Wait. No. Rockwool is basalt and steel slag spun into fibers and compressed.
This is blatant diesel heater abuse. I subbed immediately. Thanks for the video.
@SteinFab Garage
1. Oil has too much shit in it that creates ash. There is a non-serviceable mesh "gauze" inside the top of the combustion chamber that will carbon up and cause exactly the issues you're having.
2. In the short term, you can remove the glow plug and pull out the mesh screen that sizes around it, clean it with a torch and reinstall it. Likely it has fouled up from running straight waste oil. 30-50% will not plug that screen generally.
3. If you remove the combustion chamber and look inside of it, there is likely a large deposit of ash building up at the far end (top) of the tube, around the piece that looks like a splined axle shaft. If can be cleaned a bit with a pick, but once this starts happening the gauze I mentioned in 1 is pretty well pooched and you're best off to buy a new combustion chamber.
4. Running any substantial cut of engine oil will eventually cause the unit to do this. ~30% is probably about the maximum I would bother with, but only if you don't mind taking this thing apart frequently and have a free supply of used oil as an incentive to use it.
5. Vevor is about the worst brand of diesel heater. They kind of just send out thousands of units per batch and there is no standardization between batches a, b, c, d, etc so you're getting whatever parts they had available. My Vevor is a piece of shit whereas an even cheaper unit off Amazon runs flawlessly in my jet boat.
6. How is it a piece of shit, what can be different? Everything from the combustion chamber itself, the gaskets, glow plug, fuel pump, muffler, controller and ECU, fuel line, case material, etc. There is a lot that is different between units.
7. An Australian guy sells a controller called an Afterburner which is WiFi, Bluetooth, etc. Easy to tune the mixture, etc with it too. That said, all motherboard for the past couple of years don't allow low-end tuning any longer. Low basically = 1/3rd of Max fuel and fan rpm...
8. Hammer another pipe through the wall for the intake. If it flames out it will fill the garage with smoke as now know. Having the intake inside also causes a pressure drop in the garage which is balanced by cold air from outside, coming inside....
9. Aliexpress and Amazon have fuel pumps that have an integral screen in a sight glass you can see and service... It's a better pump than many of these units. Bubbles coming from the pump outlet are normal.
10. Any fluid that burns with a lot of ash will destroy the combustion chambers on these. I've run all kind of crap through mine, but diesel or diesel and gas is all that works...
11. Yes, it does run on gas.... Which is recommended in the winter to dilute your diesel with ~20% gasoline. Gasoline contains slightly less BTU, but you may not notice especially if you have two running.
12. Your fuel pump needs to be angled or it will not pump. ~45 degrees +/- 10 degrees is a good goal. It isn't that fussy, but horizontal will not work for sure.
Good Luck.
Hi,im been used for 5 tanks,3 liter of diesel,2.5 liter of hydraulic oil and 0.5 grams of gasoline. All mixed well and heater work verry good,no smoke at all at start
About a year ago I saw a video on YT where a guy tested burning used oil. His final outcome to get the best burn was a 30% mix of old/used oil and 70% fresh diesel. I've not tried this but only speaking from what I've seen on YT. I look forward to your next video or sequal to this 😀
Can confirm that works 👍🏽
@@modquad18 Thanks for confirming 😀
Kerosene burns better than Diesel go 50 50
@modquad18 thank you for confirming. I'll add some kerosene and see how that goes
Absolutely loved the drywall “ repair “ Excellent!!!
you hafta start it on Diesel, get it up to temperature, then switch to other fuels, it's best to switch back to pure diesel before shutting it off so it's only diesel for startup... once it's hot.. it won't care.. but the glow plug it uses fouls out with anything other than it's designed fuel source. use two tanks with a switchable fuel valve ( the oil needs to be a thin viscosity so the wimpy fuel pump will move it especially if it's cold when ya try to start it...so ya might need to blend it with diesel
I worked in a garage for a couple of years, we heated a 3 lift building with waste oil. Used an old homemade wood heater with a forced air blower, oil dripping onto an old truck brake drum. Also burned old transmission fluid and old gasoline mixed in. As soon as it got hot the exhaust burned completely clear without a trace of smoke. Fuel was gravity fed and drip was controlled by a small needle valve. As it heated up the drip got faster so you had to keep an eye on the temperature or it would began to glow, almost like looking at an X-ray. I wonder if I could mass market this system?
That is the old babbit style heater, popular in Canada and some parts of Europe and Russia.
I have one made from a gas cylinder (upper chamber) and a disk rotor with a saucepan below for the burner. The oil drips in through a hole in the disk and a fan pumps in air. I can make that thing glow like the setting sun if I let enough oil flow in.
Once up to temp it emits no smoke or fumes.
I recently modified it by ditching the fickle oil dripper and replacing it with a diesel heater pump to inject the oil and I drive it with a 555 timing circuit to set cycle speed along with a flame detector to cut fuel in a flame out situation, it's now much more stable once started and I can let it run for days.
Yea, my dad had one in our garage. It worked great, but you definitely had to watch the flow. Also had to watch what waste fuel you threw into the tank. For some reason, it settles and separated. Which lead to a situation where the thick oil burned off and the lighter oil flowed faster and we weren't aware... it damn near turn the shop into an oven, melted and warped all kinds of shit. Lol.
Yea, my dad had one in our garage. It worked great, but you definitely had to watch the flow. Also had to watch what waste fuel you threw into the tank. For some reason, it settles and separated. Which lead to a situation where the thick oil burned off and the lighter oil flowed faster and we weren't aware... it damn near turn the shop into an oven, melted and warped all kinds of shit. Lol.
Mine came today thank you for the information on it , I too was thinking drain oil ,but not now
I used to run my 5 cylinder Mercedes benz used Canola oil ,It was not quite as much joules of energy as dieselfuel and after about a month or so of filtering the cooking oil through a 5 micron maple syrup press it became hard to start without using starter fluid.I mixed diesel 50/50 with the canola oil and it was a bit better but I think all the tiny carbon molicules of food built up arond the rigs and made them stick loosing compression.These cars actually run on compression Iginition. Thinking about your problemI'd start of by filtering your used oil through a fine 5 micron filter and mixing it 40/50 with diesel and if you add like 10% gasoline premixing it well before you run it and also making sure the concoction is at room temp you will have much better results over the long term. Also getting a bigger ajustable fuel pump would be more reliable. I make a waste oil heater years ago and had a stainless pot Id put some used oil and paper to start up and get the pot hot ,then I used a spray gun shooting air and waste oil through a 2 inch pipe 4 feet up from the pot at the bottom of a water tank where the pot sat. I was to conclude that it worked well because you can have control of the fuel air mixture like you would paint.The draw back was you had to have your compressor running to maintain proper regulated air supply for the burn to be smoke free . Atomization with correct air supply is the I key.The spray gun tip is made of brass and changing tips after a couple weeks run time was nessisary unless you turned up the air presure to get the right mix for the worn spray gun tip. Unfortunately use oil has worn engine particulate and wears out the tip. If some how you could have a tip made of Corundum like a water jet cutting system It would last years. Idealy Id like to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel with a process called thermaldipolymerization and burn that in your heater . Im subscribed!
The stuck rings issue is likely from your organic oil polymerizing and basically gluing your rings in place.
There's a load of documentation on running various raw organic oils as fuels and they have a nearly universal problem with that when burned in their raw forms in modern engines..
The rough numbers I have found seem to say that raw organic oils can't be used long-term in blends over 20 to 30% without that ring sticking and or injector clogging happening. Any ratios above that need to either be treated or converted into actual biodiesel.
These diesel heaters and a diesel engine have about as much in common as a microwave and a bag charcoal grill
At 17:50, it won't prime because the fuel pump is air-locked. You must mount the pump at an angle of at least 45 degrees with the outlet up, to get rid of air. Straight up with outlet up is best, because it gets all the air out. Air pockets in the pump are bad, because these areas are not lubricated, and can wear out fast. Another pump issue you are likely to get with this unfiltered oil is jamming up the pump. There are no O-rings in this pump. The piston is just an extremely close fit with the cylinder. Any little grit that gets through your paint filter could jam the piston, resulting in no oil, and a flame extinguished E-08 code.
Look into real garage style waste oil heaters. Check on what they do differently. Don't reinvent the wheel. A local guy made the paper years ago running a diesel VW on filtered fry oil. Twin tank, started on diesel. Heat from cooling system went into a heat exchanger and preheated the used fryer oil. The preheated (thinned oil) then was switched on and the car ran perfectly. Maybe wrapping tubing around exhaust to preheat might work. Still need to preheat to get it running from cold start (heat lamp?). Better pump would be needed. Fire extinguisher would be a great idea. Keep trying, don't burn your place down. Good Luck!
This is a magnificent idea. Thanks for the input. I’m trying to avoid twin tanking my Delica and Cummins, but it might need to be done. The exhaust heater is such a great idea I’ve never considered!!!
@@steinfabgarage
Just remember, if you heat the oil directly that it may start to char on the inside of the tube. Lack of flow will cause heat, heat may cause fire. Would be better to heat coolant in a tube and move the heated coolant to say a transmission cooler. No direct contact of oil to high heat source. Good luck.@@steinfabgarage
You can use your stock tank for the waste oil and just use a mini tank for your startup/shutdown diesel.
@@questioner1596 You could incorporate a dual tank fuel selector from a zeroturn or similar mower.
I’ve got 5 of these on my farm. Used oil causes you to have to rebuild the motor. Trust me. The manufacturing quality of these is what you expected… functional but finicky. Our plants and animals depend on the heat so straight diesel is the way to go for consistency
Apart from needing to clean it out more regularly, you need to know that the exhaust fumes can be toxic due to heavy metals that end up in it and carcinogenic due to the soot, so make sure they can't get into the workshop.
or anywhere
All exhaust fumes from combustion systems are toxic…
I’ve been using those heater for years on waste oil. The trick is have two tanks . One for startup like 15 min on diesel and the second one on 20% kerosene if you can .plumb the two tanks together to the pump and have a fuel shutoff for each tank. When the heater is hot switch from good diesel to waste/kerosene. I run it all year long in my shed with no issues. The only thing you have to do is disassemble it once every 3 month if you run it for long hours everyday and clean the chamber. Hope it helps
Thanks for this! basically answered some questions i had about these heaters!
My dude, you are a man’s man. We don’t NEED no STINKING instructions! ...or correct tools. We just make stuff happen with whatever. Also, not afraid to break stuff just to see what happens. I am stepping up to be that 4th subscriber. PS - your landlord must love you 😄
10/10 comment. Outta all of em this is my favorite. I’m working with a bud currently and showing him, NIKE just do it!!!!
I’ve had one for 4 years and I only paid 100 dollars back then for it. It heats my 30x30 garage to 65 degrees. I love it. The only thing I’ve had to do is open the unit up and clean it out put all new gaskets and glow plug in and it was good to go. And I only had to do that because I was running it on a battery and it would just die and when you do that it don’t run fan until the flame is out so it causes a lot of mess inside lol. But the rebuild kit is only less than $15..
Funny you mentioned to take the cover off and check all the connectors. I took mine off and immediately found the fuel line has a kink in it where they have it going up at an angle and the line turns to go down.
I noticed that the oil jugs you were using said synthetic on them. If this is what you run all the time, so your used oil is actually synthetic, that could be your problem. Synthetic oil does not burn well at ALL due to a much higher flashpoint. Remember the oild Mobil one oil in the frypan commercial?
Exactly
The exhaust tubing isn't to keep things from burning at all. It is to prevent carbon monoxide build up in your room. The deadly gas that doesn't have an order. I haven't completed the video but I hope you have a carbon monoxide detector in your room. The muffler as you figured isn't needed. Stay safe.
Used oil should be mixed with gasoline to make diesel, start at 10% gas to 90% oil and increase gas percentage from there. Research black diesel for more info
So I have the same cheap heater but I had an issue with my pump. My heater is not fully enclosed but the pump I mounted at a slight angle. I kept getting e8 error and after doing research I found a video of a guy with one like yours saying the pump needs to be vertical. Meaning the input is on the bottom output is on top. Once I did that I never had an issue unless I run out of fuel
You can buy burners that are made strictly for waste oil, they are kind of expensive, but many truck shop's use them. Cheaper than having someone haul their waste oil off. Plus they can heat a shop very well, they use about one and a half gallons per hour.
"Sometimes the kids assembling them are tired" got a subscribe from me. Well done good sir.
you may find that you'll have to clean the burn chamber a little more often than if you were running straight diesel, you'll get a lot of carbon (and crap) build up.
with practice you can dismantle, clean the burn chamber and reassemble in 20 mins
I would HAVE to belive more heat comes from the heater than plastic bottles of used oil...
I bet 5050 would keep it working. Thanks for the video.
The viscosity it too thick. Need to thin it with something 😂
Great video my friend I instal & service these machines and only run all mine on heating oil ( kerosene) with a capful of 2 stroke oil they run very clean and hotter! It costs me around 65p a ltr when I open them up to service 9 out of 10 times the chamber is clean with no need to do anything but change gaskets. Nice video though.
Make sure that the pump is at a angle about 30 degrees this will help .all the best Jono.
I'd think you could legally run it on heating oil which is cheaper because it doesn't have the motor tax that is on diesel. It's pretty much the same thing. I mean, you're using it for heat, not to power a truck. I don't know if you can get heating oil anywhere or just where it's used.
you can also get off road diesel by the drum from your local petrol company, no tax diesel
Start on diesel, and then add the oil mixed with diesel
You're awesome bro, this is engineering gold. I'm subscribing and me and my buddies are going to be watching your future exploits.
I sincerely hope your decisive attitude earns a good living for you. It should.
I filter my waste oil with gauze and mix 2/3 fuel, 1/3 oil. Fill the tank with diesel first, and follow with the oil. This works fine and won’t damage the heater and your fuel cost is cut by 33%. And the unit seems to run more economically and hotter heat output with the muffler installed.
What if you ran the exhaust through a radiator or some type of heat exchanger before it went outside and then blew a fan across it, seems like you could squeeze a little more heat out of it.
get that exhaust connected through old cast iron radiator, all this temperature gets wasted, mix 50:50 with diesel and should be fine
Got mine yesterday and it's heating my greenhouse nicely at night. Right now it's running on diesel but I plan on having a second tank mixed 50/50 oil diesel to burn but have switched to diesel for warm up and shut down. I also got a vevor Bluetooth to beat the house with, but won't need with oil mixture in that one. Very interested in seeing what you will experiment on your heater and results.
I really suggest you search UA-cam for wmo Chinese diesel heater. It'll save you time and frustration. Trust me.
This video randomly popped up in my feed, and the first 10 seconds made me laugh hard enough to subscribe. Thanks.
Bought the same one you did.Havent hooked it up yet.Waiting to see what you do
Run diesel if you don’t want it to break, I’ve broke 3 more. Still working on a solution. If you do run waste, new burners are 22$ on Amazon. More coming once something is successful
Only 2 minutes in your video but I love your energy, you have a new subscriber
I've had one for about 18 months, I found that a ratio of 9 diesel to 1 cooking oil is the max before it starts dripping from the bottom.
Unless you have an endless supply of oil you'll need diesel at some point so might as well make it easier for the heater by diluting oil with that ratio of oil/diesel.
Short term they will run on any oil you can find as long as it’s thin enough. The combustion chamber however will soot up over time and it’ll need cleaning out. The intake needs piping outside too in case there’s a failure, as you’ve found out, fumes pump out of it when it shuts down… Get rid of the case and small fuel tank and just have the main unit in your shed and have a larger tank outside. That way when you inevitably spill diesel or oil it won’t stink out your shed. Mine is still working perfectly after 4 years.
For pete sake. Not another one trying to burn waste oil in a diesel heater? Then posting a video when it doesn't work very well. Really? Its a diesel heater, not an oil heater. This has to be no. 101 video where it does not work long term without plugging the glow plug hole and the burner plate. No common sense in this shop. Will it ever end?
Careful.. he complains back to you
Thin it with gasoline or diesel fuel it work good
Quit yapping
So many variables to consider here. First and foremost, everyone keeps talking about filtering and forgetting about moisture. Your oil needs to be ran thru a water fuel separator and filtered. A centrifuge would be Best. Second it doesn't appear that the pump is strong enough to pump the oil so cut it with 20%rug to thin the oil. Also the fuel pump is sitting almost vertically, it would probably work better horizontally.
I have a bit of experience with running wmo in diesels and i can tell you that some older diesels eat it with no problems and others require a lil leg work to get it to cooperate. Same is True with Park heaters
Automotive oil filters are in the 20-to-30-micron range. Hydraulic filters go down to around 5-to-10 microns.
Also diesel filters to 10 micron
I subscribed - because you are REAL.... LOL! And I like being warm in the winter and we are thinking of installing one of these units in Northern Nevada. Thanks for the video!
An infrared thermometet will read very low on that shiny exhaust pipe.
And possibly off on the aluminum heat sink/radiator in the heater.
Paint shiny surfaces black. Use high temp or header paint on the exhaust pipe.
Flat black dries fast if you're in a hurry.
What i have done in the previously is mix a 10% rug which is petrol with the waste oil prior to using it in the burner. You want to let it settle for at least three days before adding it to the heater. A sediment will drop out you do not want this sediment to drop out inside the fuel canister do you want to get rid of it if you wish to heat the oil before it hits the fuel pump, you can use the exhaust heat to do so with a heat exchangeheat exchange
Grandpa had an old diesel heater in his workshop, i really don't know if it was custom/homemade or a full on product but it was old looking and felt like a deathtrap when i was just a kid, he would keep it mostly diesel but wed pour basically anything that was flammable. The tank smelt horrible and the exhaust smelt even worse, but damn we were cozy, it was warmer than the house sometimes
Why am I not surprised the unit says 'no'...I'm guessing the unit has a jet that is set for the viscosity of diesel so a further guess is that you need to blend and or heat what ever fuel you chose so it matches that viscosity or near enough for it to cope. Perhaps changing the tank for a metal one with a thermostat controlled heater in it could be a good start and replace the hopeless fuel hoses with something heat resistant. Also there's a ton of waste heat lost via the exhaust that could be used. Either way for the money they'd pretty good but seeing the built quality I too have bought a spare!
The heater doesn't have any form of jet, a set amount of fuel is squirted in which makes its way to a large gauze which is used to increase surface area to evaporate the diesel. This happens in a vortex chamber. The problem with using anything other than diesel is that the gauze gets clogged. Very difficult to get properly clean.
w0w you really know how to adhere to the scientific method.
Always wondered what would happen! Thank you for this demonstration, instant sub
I was a diesel mechanic for 15 years our trucks had espar heaters (same thing) we had to clean the carbon build off the burner thats with ultra low sulfur diesel you will have tons of carbon build up but its an easy job id definitely thin it with diesel.
You need way bigger exhaust hole in the wall with fireproof material. Those are known to cause fires. A heater core makes a great heat exchanger as well.
Do you have any examples of such fires?
@@BruceLyeg Yes I do.
You should look into getting a double wall pipe for the outside wall termination. That exhaust is hot enough to start a fire from the building materials it touches.
With the code 1688 you can enter the menu and adjust the pump speed and fan speed, this will allow compensation for alternative fuels or higher altitude etc. There is no factory reset function though so make a note of the std settings before you mess them up! I have found the green pumps to be more tolerant of alternative fuels than the ones with black plastic. My black pumps both failed when i switched to home heating oil (kerosene) but have both run fine for years now on both diesel and kerosene with the green pumps.
It WILL get coked up. The atomizer screen, the tiny air ports close to it and the burn chamber will all need cleaning. Having said that, it's not too difficult to disassemble and oven cleaner works well. Once it starts getting coked up it restricts air flow, which in turn reduces temps, which makes it coke up even more until it either wont light, or even extinguishes itself. Better to start at 1hz too until it's warm to avoid flooding which is why it's leaking.
"looks like we have intake on the rear..." a "your mom" joke popped into my head when you said that!
I would recommend adding some diesel or gas to thin the used motor oil and filter it through a bed sheet of nothing else
Based on my experience, I would agree
Run your combustion air intake hose to the outside and reconnect it. Nice cold air into the combustion chamber and you are no longer sucking hot air out of the room and blowing it outside via the exhaust
Cutting WMO with diesel doesn't get the viscosity down where it needs to be. Thats why I cut it with gasoline for my truck. 15-20% got me great results.
I lost a lot of brain cells watching this but thanks for the entertainment!
Young man. You have good communication skills and taking away bad manners you presented an interesting issue. A piece of advice if you want more audience for your videos. Keep it professional, don't swear or show fingers. Respect your viewers! No need for those things. I am out but I may come back and subscribe if you can handle constructive criticism!!
I disagree about those vulgar things, they add to the showmanship and are just part of the entertainment.
That test earned a subscriber. Good job!
I run 1L old gasoline to 3L old oil. I start the heater with some propane in the intake and once it’s running I run it on high and it’s worked great for me
Mix old filtered cooking oil (if you deep fat fry food) at a 50/50 ratio too. In cold weather, I've heard people using 50/50 Kerosene/Diesel to keep the Diesel from thickening.
Guys that run oil in their trucks generally add a little gas to the oil to thin it.