WMO Diesel Heater - Shocking / Confusing Results !!

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  • Опубліковано 5 бер 2024
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    Actual Description: I have modified my heater so that it has a secondary chamber, for burning waste oil(s)... I have tested it in the past with ATF and engine oil, and while it worked pretty well with ATF, the engine oil made a bit of stink, and a substantial amount of CO.... I have modified the design in an attempt to take care of these problems.... on the way to trying to make a self cleaning heater that runs well on waste oil.
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 122

  • @gregorykucera4235
    @gregorykucera4235 5 місяців тому +7

    Strange carbon monoxide got better but this video was Great keep messing with it ,You the man .

  • @wallacefrey6247
    @wallacefrey6247 5 місяців тому +4

    Congratulations on the 6K subscribers. Keep up the good work,and you'll be at 10K by the end of the year.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +2

      Thanks, Wallace ! Views and subs has tapered off considerably as the weather changes and the spring approaches... but I'll take it as it comes

  • @HostileHST
    @HostileHST 4 місяці тому +1

    28:20, I had said my burn chamber melted in a past post, try to imagine it forming to the inside ribbing of the heat ex-changer, now you might understand how bad mine got. Oh ya, it got HOT! That was just running diesel, I let guys like you do the crazy stuff, lol.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      Haha... how on earth did you make that happen ? My heater made it to 281C on the outside without any damage to the exchanger... Did you have it running full manual ?

    • @HostileHST
      @HostileHST 4 місяці тому +1

      @@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, it was on high a lot, but no idea how hot it was, other than it felt much hotter than the one I recently fixed. Keeping it's temps a bit lower to prevent whatever I did to cause such havoc.

  • @tenlittleindians
    @tenlittleindians 5 місяців тому +4

    My thoughts before the test was you had too many oil holes drilled.
    I would have started with one hole and added another later if it acted like it could handle more oil.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure if you are aware of how the system is working, so pardon me if I over explain. The oil volume is controlled by a 2kw controller ... The air that goes in with the fuel is to disperse it, so the oil (and therefore ash) doesn't settle in one spot.
      The fewer the holes, the higher the pressure, and the less air volume from the air pump. The more holes, the less pressure and more air volume.
      My reason for increasing the number of holes was that the fuel seemed to be flashing off too quickly, (but not burning) I could bear buzz buzz buzz, with every pulse of the oil pump, indicating an aggressive expansion of gasses.... and there was a lot of blue smoke out the exhaust.
      I hope to do more experimenting with a new nozzle and see if I can possibly optimize the placement of the injected oil and air, but I believe it will continue to flash off without burning, in the current design.

    • @tenlittleindians
      @tenlittleindians 4 місяці тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927 I thought your fuel delivery was a gravity feed system and that usually means more height equals more fuel and bigger holes allows fuel to leak out faster. I guess these don't work like that.
      I still think you need less oil because of the lower burn rate in a fixed size burn chamber. You can only get so much air in a fixed space without pressurization.
      The oil burns hotter than diesel so that may be screwing up how the sensor is working to adjust air flow.
      Maybe the added layer of soot on the temperature probe made it think the chamber was cooler than it actually was and that allowed it to run hotter which oil requires?

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      @@tenlittleindians The fuel into the primary chamber is gravity feed clean diesel, and the fan is controlled by an 8kw ECU. This preheats the secondary chamber, where the oil and air is injected with the 2kw ECU and 50W aquarium air pump.
      Yeah... You are not wrong about the pressurization... and the more rapidly the fuel burns, the more pressure there will be. In the end, the heater is limited to about 7kw due to the inlet and outlet size, the exhaust being the limiting factor to pressurization.
      The heat sensor for the 8kw ECU does not control fuel flow, only fan speed.... and it is affected by the heat sensor /extra heat. The 2kw ECU heat sensor is on a bolt at the outlet of the heater and the reads a much lower temperature, for this reason. When the exchanger is 240C, for example, the 2kw ECU sees a temp of about 155C .
      While the fuel is somewhat affected by temp, it should be noted that this is not like the fuel injection on a car. It will basically have two maps. One for when it is running at "normal" operating temperatures and one that kicks in after a certain temp threshold (on my old heater 210C) and lowers the fuel map by 50% until the temp drops (to 208) The actual temp varies depending on the ECU.

  • @vincentdesjardins1354
    @vincentdesjardins1354 5 місяців тому +5

    Hey Joel, I follow your tinkering for a while. I admire your curiosity and determination.
    However I firmly beleive your should wear some respiratory protection (at the very least a simple filtering 'paper' mask) when manipulating fine dust waste material.
    Repeated exposition to burned waste oil residues potentialy full of very fine metal particles can lead to serious respiratory and/or heart conditions as well as high blood pressure.
    I learned that lesson the hard way and would hate for you to make the same mistake.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +2

      Yeah... you're not wrong about that. I have a good 3M mask and should use it when dealing with the ash... I generally only think of it after I'm 90% through my task. Thanks for the reminder. I appreciate it.

    • @werner.x
      @werner.x 4 місяці тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927
      I also didn't care too much - work had to be done - in time too.
      And then i got practically stopped by the resulting health issues.
      These days, if i fix a rusted car to pass inspection, i can do this with mask for maybe 3 days - after that the breathing issues and the overall effect really take over.
      Not exactly a rewarding setup.
      Instead of getting satisfaction by fixing stuff, i'll have to take the health struggle for fixing stuff.
      And - to be honest - it never paid off on the monetary side either. Just imagine the financial situation of people, who drive old junkers.
      All, that ever pay off, was the satisfaction - there is no money in fixing old cars. It was once, before people started to run from shop to shop to find the cheapest one - well before money eaters like personal computers and game consoles were invented and smartphones had to be purchased. But i still was a kid then and owning a car was the greatest value, a family could afford.
      Also kind of a pity, since i loved to model "kind of art" figures with my welder - practically converting 0.8mm wire into metal castings and i once hoped, to do more after retiring.
      Instead, i had to retire earlyer than expected and doing, what i loved the most, gives me health issues, so i can't do it any more.
      This advice from Vincent - take care in time and not afterwards - isn't the worst one in the world.

    • @werner.x
      @werner.x 4 місяці тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927Tried to answer here - gone again 😷
      Nothing special, don't know, why google always delete me. Will stop posting, if this continues.
      I try it once more by pasting the saved yesterday text, slightly shortened:
      I also didn't care too much - work had to be done in time.
      But then i got practically stopped by the resulting health issues.
      These days, if i fix a rusted car to pass inspection, i can do this with a mask for maybe 3 days - but the breathing issues and the sickening effect gradually take over.
      Takes time to recover.
      Not exactly a rewarding setup.
      Also kind of a pity, since i loved to model "kind of art" figures with my welder - practically converting 0.8mm wire into metal castings and i once hoped, to do more after retiring.
      Instead, i had to retire earlyer than expected and doing, what i loved the most, gives me health issues, so i can't do it any more.
      This advice from Vincent - take care in time and not afterwards - isn't the worst one in the world.

  • @carlos_sacalul
    @carlos_sacalul 5 місяців тому +1

    Nice work man,you are the best,vevor should offer you an development job. Keep like this. Cheers

  • @ronlowther9044
    @ronlowther9044 5 місяців тому +3

    Great video, Dr. Vevorstien ..... It's ALIVE! lol

  • @reubenk7331
    @reubenk7331 4 місяці тому +1

    Very interesting results. Wild how some things can accidently work really well. I am considering starting on diesel, switching to 25% oil 75% diesel, and then switching back to diesel on shut down. Even cutting cost by 1/4 would be pretty sweet without having a ton of deposits and issues.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      I assume you are talking about engine oil ? It's possible that this could work. it appears to me that engine oil has a lot of ash content, and burning 6 liters of oil, for example, will leave behind about 30 grams of ash.
      If you mix it with diesel at 25%, it may run 4x as long, but that's because you are burning 1/4 aa much oil. At some mix ratios, some of the ash may get carried out with the exhaust gasses, but I think I have tried 70 diesel 30 waste oil, with the same ash results.

    • @reubenk7331
      @reubenk7331 4 місяці тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927 That is good to know that you have tried a 70/30 mix and it still had a similar ash result. As a technician, I am not afraid of tearing the heater apart every so often, but I don't want to do it in the middle of winter. Someone I talked to switches back and forth and just does occasional tear downs not due to failure to start, but just to clean junk out. Honestly, if the cost savings of running a mix outweighs increased wear, replacement gaskets, and potential damaged components, I'll just run straight diesel. Still easier and cheaper than having to do propane exchanges for my cabinet heater that adds a lot of water, and some smell, to the garage when running.

  • @shawnrinkel8377
    @shawnrinkel8377 5 місяців тому +1

    Great vid I think the volume is less so more air but mainly I think the oil is able to pre heat by spreading across the hot ash face. Have you tried to loop some stainless tube through the burn chamber for the oil to get really close to vaporizing before it goes into the chamber? And maybe a little reservoir for the air line to smooth the airflow to smooth the pulsing.
    Great stuff as always! Thank you!

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      I didn't use stainless tube, but I ran an injector tube down the muddle of the chamber... It would have been flashing off in the tube, for sure, as it turns a piece of welding rod red hot in about 10 seconds.
      I think if the fuel is vaporized, it needs to be injected into a very well designed chamber, so that it burns, instead of just being blown out the exhaust. It doesn't seem like this would even be possible (for it to exit as unburnt smoke) but I have had this happen many times.
      It appears that mixing of the fuel and air is key, and more difficult than one would imagine.

  • @mnp3713
    @mnp3713 5 місяців тому +1

    the flex grider is awsome best buy ever! - buy the Dremel EZ SpeedClic grinding disc they are much better than the cheap ones. I used it for cosmetic rust repair on my car. it almost can get in every corner

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      I have seen those EZ SpeedClic things, but never used them. I constantly find new uses for my flex shaft grinder.

  • @stoddern
    @stoddern 5 місяців тому

    If burning waste oil is your goal your best bet would be to mix the waste oil with ATF or kerosene till it's roughly the same viscosity as diesel, that way the stock nozzle should work fine. Also make sure to super filter the used oil.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +1

      I have mixed with diesel, gasoline, methanol, varsol and a few other things in the past. Regardless of the mixture, there will always be ash left behind from heavy oils.
      I did a test burning strait ATF a few weeks ago, and it worked quite well. these heaters, however, do not have nozzles. The fuel is dripped onto a wick, and it is basically a glorified candle that has a pump feeding the wick in real time.

  • @semag93
    @semag93 5 місяців тому +2

    The brushes on the fan motor can stick and not contact the stator properly, cleaning them so they slide properly helps. That can cause the fan to fail randomly.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +2

      I had one of my brush holders melt last year... this does not appear to me that tho. The motor was physically stuck... I couldn't turn it at all... and then it cooled off and would spin fine. I'm guessing the bearings got too hot.

    • @semag93
      @semag93 4 місяці тому

      Wow it really must have gotten HOT!
      I'm interested in your hint at a cleaning system, as I use my homemade biodiesel and run it 24/7, and with it running low most of the time - it will carbon up at times. Keep up the Great work!@@loweredexpectations4927

  • @mickgatz214
    @mickgatz214 5 місяців тому +1

    the PPM bit was very interesting because i've been getting the very same results here, running it at it's lowest...

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      Same results burning diesel ? Sorry... I'm forgetful. I get about 17ppm burning clean diesel.

  • @KingofallDiffs
    @KingofallDiffs 5 місяців тому +1

    Oh man, l was gonna let you have it over that half a garaaage...but then, BEWM! got one🤣🤣🤟🏻👑

  • @WaffleStaffel
    @WaffleStaffel 5 місяців тому +1

    I got my CO meter and set to measuring regular operation on diesel. I found the CO on normal mode is from 0-5ppm, but on alpine mode it's 250 to pegging the needle. I've never let it go all the way to 1000. I imagine this is down to the temperature of the burn chamber. I've swapped controllers, and despite matching the H1-H6 controller in RPM and Hz, the CO was still way high, but in hindsight, I never let it run long enough to heat the block up to the 180° where the normal mode begins operation (the controller where you can set the Hz directly doesn't display the block temperature).
    Yours was always at least 200°, so I guess it's like you said, the high heat and surface area of the residue enabled such a complete burn of the oil.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +1

      I have found the same thing to be true... I think the excess cool air cause an incomplete burn.
      "the high heat and surface area of the residue enabled such a complete burn of the oil" ... yeah... that's all I can think of.

  • @martinpanks992
    @martinpanks992 5 місяців тому

    I think the ash is acting as some sort of catalyst like a glowing wire mesh and when the oil hits the glowing pile of Ash it acts like a wick and helps efficiently burn the oil, just a thought..

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +1

      I think you are probably right about that... My guess is that it is probably that and an odd combination of a few things all just working together... Very strange.

  • @semag93
    @semag93 4 місяці тому +1

    Have you considered getting an AfterBurner add on, as it makes adjustment (fuel/air) and other things so much easier + better remote access?

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      I have considered the afterburner. More so when I was running a single chamber and single fuel system feed. Someone is now sending me a device that will split the fuel pump signal into two, and allow me to control each independently.
      This will mean that I have control not only over the overall ratio, but over the ratio of diesel to waste oil (or any other alternative fuel) and it also has a feature that will allow me to start the heater on diesel and then switch over automatically.

  • @haydenc2742
    @haydenc2742 5 місяців тому

    Try using a .4mm nozzle instead of 1/8...
    And/or use some stainless steel mesh (thick stuff not like steel wool) to absorb the oil to allow it to burn off
    Check the chamber after the burn...see if it's mega sooted up
    Very cool!

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      My last nozzle that I did my ATF and WMO testing with, was just a 3mm hole... It seemed to work better, but there were a few other differences as well.
      I have used stainless mesh, in those tests as well. It seems to work a little, but deteriorates very quickly, eroding away. Perhaps a Inconel or nichrome mesh.
      Ash still formed in these tests, but it the mesh seemed to help spread the ash out over a less concentrated area.

  • @mechniack
    @mechniack 5 місяців тому

    There's only 2 Ways to burn waste oil , atomizer it with pump and nozzle or have a hot enough surface to flash evaporate the oil so it become atomized or vapor this way . Both leaves residue. A rotating chamber with balls that can handle temperature could potentially be self cleaning as it would crush and expell any residue 😁

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      Yeah... At the very beginning of this series, I pointed out that burning waste oil will always produce ash, and that purpose of this testing was to design a system that burns oil fairly clean (no stink and reasonable CO), and to have a system that was easy to clean, to that it could eventually be self cleaning.
      As for the atomizing, it's really not that easy in a heater like this. I'm not going to go in to great detail on why, but it's actually very difficult when you scale it down and try to keep it ... containing components from these heaters.
      I have a couple of cad designs that would probably work, for self cleaning, but it's a fair amount of effort, so I am testing designs to see what will actually burn with little CO and little small before jumping into something complex.
      Steel or perhaps ceramic balls could do the trick to break up ash and coax it along. Most metals can not withstand the conditions inside of the chamber, but even steel balls could likely be replaced a few times a year.
      I am currently building a chamber with a rotating cleaning system that uses the fuel nozzle as a scraper on the inside of the chamber. As this video seems to show, a little ash / carbon can actually work to your advantage.
      That being said... This test burnt 10.8L of oil and the heater was still running fine... With a proper control system, it likely would have kept running for another 10 litres. For some people, this would be considered good enough, but I am going to keep making improvements.

  • @bikerboymc54
    @bikerboymc54 5 місяців тому

    I wonder if you could get some Carbon Matting To stay in there somewhere Somehow as a wicking surface, Seems to work good with vegetable oil candles once you get it lit..

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      Carbon works well at lower temperatures and if it isn't a forced air system. At higher temperatures, and in an oxygen rich environment, carbon turns into fuel and burns pretty quickly.
      I tried this last year with a few pieces of carbon fibre cloth, just for fun, and it disappears pretty quickly.

  • @Spencer1609751
    @Spencer1609751 5 місяців тому +2

    Hey Joel, could you remove the Air Inlet Baffle to help cool the Heat Exchanger better?

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      This comment showed up... That's good.
      At the end, when it overheated, I did have the end cap thing removed, and it still made it all the way up to 281C... pretty crazy.

  • @jamminjim1208
    @jamminjim1208 5 місяців тому +1

    Shrodingers cat situation. Heh.

  • @vanamsgarage
    @vanamsgarage 5 місяців тому +1

    Spray the oil and air in to a "thimble" so they mix and atomize as they get pushed out.

    • @coachgeo
      @coachgeo 5 місяців тому +1

      great idea... this would act like a prechamber (swirl chamber) in a IDI diesel. A brass flare cap might last longer than the thimble . It might handle the heat better than a thimble?

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      I like this idea... not sure if I could make it work, but you got me thinking about it.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +1

      Oooooo ... what about one of those sintered brass filter / muffler things ?

    • @vanamsgarage
      @vanamsgarage 4 місяці тому

      Just make a "thimble" out of stainless or plain steel. You could drill a chamber into thick steel as long as you don't go all the way thru. Just something to make the oil splash out and cause it to atomize.

  • @constantinehatzis2807
    @constantinehatzis2807 5 місяців тому

    In my experience, wmo is a waste of time, but I'm having great success with used cooking oil, 60 to 70 % oil, the rest diesel . Ensure it's well mixed.
    The key is to keep the exhaust port from carbon fouling, if this happens, things go down hill quickly.
    The fix is simple and requires no dismantling, and takes about 15 seconds to do. Initial removal of casting flashing and blending is required on the exhaust port.
    I have not had to dismantle my heater since using this method, which is at least a month.
    Think chimney sweep.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      Yeah... I have over 30 videos, last year, of different WMO experiments, and at least 6 this year. I don't think anything is a waste of time, if you learn from it, but I can see why you would say that.
      if you haven't been following the series, you will have missed the objective of this testing / these experiments. I have accepted that ash will build up. The goal is to disperse the ash as much as possible, and then make a mechanically self cleaning chamber.
      I have not had carbon or soot issues for quite some time. Carbon seems to be mostly from burning too cool. This can be a real problem as the area that flashes off the fuel in a standard chamber doesn't get very hot, hence the secondary chamber in my design.
      I would like to see what happens if you inject air in with your fuel, like I have with mine, but in your standard chamber... I had decent luck with this last year while testing with WMO... so it could work wonders with VEG oil.

    • @constantinehatzis2807
      @constantinehatzis2807 5 місяців тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927 I have been following with great interest, and apologies for saying it's a waste of time. It's all learning, and we learn more from mistakes than successes.
      But for me , the wmo has proved less successful, but I haven't given up on the stuff as it's abundant. I think the oil needs to be vaporised before it enters the combustion chamber....a bit like the old paraffin blow torches, pre heat the paraffin to a vapour before ignition.

    • @constantinehatzis2807
      @constantinehatzis2807 5 місяців тому

      .... Maybe not vaporised, but at least atomised. Basically, fuel injection.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      @@constantinehatzis2807 No worries... I know what you meant. Veg oil is a lot easier to burn and some day I may have access to it instead of WMO... and go down that path.
      Vaporizing is necessary to burn fuel, for sure. The trick is to mix the vapour with heat and oxygen, inside of the chamber , so that it doesn't get blown out as smoke. One would assume this is easy, but it turns out to be a challenge, haha.

    • @constantinehatzis2807
      @constantinehatzis2807 4 місяці тому

      @@loweredexpectations4927 Stoichiometric ratio, (air / fuel ratio ) has to be right for engines, diesel heaters and much more to run efficiently.

  • @diesel-heater-Free-Heat
    @diesel-heater-Free-Heat 5 місяців тому

    Hello mate. Just call me Gary McLaren from now on. I will be putting up my new video soon. Tips: the supply line is 2mm internal ID pulsed. So the diesel plus engine oil can only have and cope with a 1mm each. The pulse duration is determined by fan speed as each fan magnet sends a signal every 180 degrees. Your overheat issue is scary. Please copy my design and have the main fan on a 10 amp independent potentiometer. Then an independent supercharger to blow that shit out of your combustion chamber and out your exhaust. I ran mine yesterday on both oils and 02 heated sensors on my CAT picked up 12 to 1 for the first one and 14 to 1 for the second 02. On a supercar you can live with that without burning exhuast valves, but on these heaters you must limit you oil input to 18-1 to run clean. Mine spiked at 260c fin temperature yesterday but I managed to cool it with 4,000 feet per minute supercharged air. Even though I’m heating my oil to 65c I’m losing temp on the way to the pump, so I’m waiting on 50c 5volt blankets to heat the supply line. Take care mate as you shit the life out of me and I reach for another beta blocker😂

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      Hey Gary. (McLaren) haha.
      Sorry, but I'm having a real hard time grasping what you are talking about. "2mm internal ID pulsed".
      "So the diesel plus engine oil can only have and cope with a 1mm each". It sounds like you are saying that the fuel line has some effect on the fuel delivery ? Fuel delivery is determined by the HZ of the pump and nothing else. (practically speaking) 12mm fuel line will take a long time to fill... but once it reaches the heater, one pulse of the pump delivers .022 ml of fuel, regardless.
      "The pulse duration is determined by fan speed as each fan magnet sends a signal every 180 degrees." I think you mean pulse frequency... the duration doesn't change anything, right ? Are you saying that if you override the fan and speed it up, the pump hz will increase also. If so, that is interesting... odd, but interesting.
      I have considered using the same supercharger design that you are using. I like the idea of having extra air flow on tap. I'm curious to know if you have oxide issues when running the supercharger for extended periods. I would like to try this in the future. You just run the supercharger periodically to clean it out and not during normal operation ? I have missed some of your videos as I am busy trying to make a house purchase, among other things.
      That's interesting about the O2 sensor readings. I have heard that waste oils like to run lean... (compared to diesel)
      Maybe you already have, but it would be nice to have and extra fan that was triggered to turn on at around 240 and off at 220, to avoid overheating. You can get thermal switches for electric motors that are normally closed, one of those attached to a relay would do the trick... Though I'm sure there are plenty fo different ways.
      It is hard to retain heat in oil as it passes to the heater. I did this last year by running brake line through the fins on the outside of the heat exchanger.... this limits the temp to a little less than exchanger temp, and keeps it hot, right into the chamber.
      Keep up the great work Mr McLaren !

  • @jdthewelder8308
    @jdthewelder8308 4 місяці тому +1

    Great stuff. I should have asked this in a previous video but... When you use cooking oil does it make a difference if it is "used" vs. fresh. Does the heating of the oil before hand change it in some way that makes it more combustable... I have a ton of unused cooking oil and am wondering if I should heat it before I use it for fuel in my diesel heater.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      Hey... I have actually not experimented with veg oil at all, until last night. I started testing a veg oil mix with diesel and gasoline. (40/50/10)
      If it is used, you will want to make sure that you filter it. I personally don't think preheating makes as much difference as people claim (in this style of heater) as it is basically a candle, the fuel burns on a wick and is not atomized as a mist.
      Cooking oil can be converted to bio diesel pretty easily using methanol and lye.... If I had a steady supply, I would probably get set up to do that. In a week or so I will have a video out on the results of my testing, burning it without removing the glycerin.
      I have had a few people insist that they use this mix ratio, but I am skeptical, so won't recommend it unless it looks good after burning through 8 liters of cooling oil.

  • @Jack_Move
    @Jack_Move 4 місяці тому +1

    Would an o2 sensor Socket fit in there ? Pretty easy to make yer own. Get a 17mm DeepWell Impact socket & cut a Slit in one side far enough for the Oil inlet line to slide through it. Be way better then using Needle Nose 😃

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      I can't' remember if he used a wide band or not, but Dave Mcluckie tried using an automotive O2 sensor and gave up on it... I don't' remember much about the video, except that I thought it was a great idea, that ended with him deciding just to use something else.

    • @Jack_Move
      @Jack_Move 4 місяці тому +1

      @@loweredexpectations4927 o2 sensors should work, But I was actually referring to using the Socket to remove and tighten your Oil injector instead of using Needle Nose. Make a 17mm socket like how an o2 sensor one is with a DeepWell Impact .

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      @@Jack_Move OH !... Sorry... I totally missed that. The "problem" is that it needs to seal to multiple surfaces. It should be sealed to and threaded to the burn chamber, and then sealed to the exchanger. A bung welded into the chamber, and then a o-ring seal on the exchanger would likely work well.

  • @patrickday4206
    @patrickday4206 4 місяці тому +1

    I think if you build a heater and do neutron bombardment before entering the burn chamber that might work. 😂😂😂

  • @toddstanley7804
    @toddstanley7804 4 місяці тому +1

    I am sure some viewer can build you a custom controller with a arduino board

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      I have someone sending me a system for splitting and controlling fuel pump signal... I should be perfect.

  • @benjamin_d_cook
    @benjamin_d_cook 4 місяці тому +1

    You always insist that I lower my expectations but usually you exceed them. Curious.

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      Haha... My plan works then... you lower your expectations, and then I exceed them, haha.

  • @ChippyOutdoors
    @ChippyOutdoors 5 місяців тому +1

    I'm most curious how it performed with making heat after porting and opening the air inlet to feed the chamber with less fuel. I have seen how restrictive that was but didnt want to toy with the inlet size. If can consume less fuel and get the same or very close to the same thermal output that wpuld be awesome. S8nce my 1 heater runs roughly 70 to 90 hours a week i do use alot of diesel regardless. Consumption changes depending on weather too

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому +2

      I am going to do back to back testing on this fan setup on a standard heater (soon I hope) and check to see if it had any substantial change.
      My eating will focus mostly around monitoring CO levels, and checking to see if it will noticeably lean out my heater that normally runs rich.

    • @ChippyOutdoors
      @ChippyOutdoors 5 місяців тому

      @loweredexpectations4927 I may just rip mine apart if our weather is decent next week so the wife doesn't loose her "quiet spot" I call it saving my peace of mind 😂

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому +1

      @@ChippyOutdoors Haha... smart man.

  • @3ox3
    @3ox3 5 місяців тому +1

    👍

  • @kirkwalsh1932
    @kirkwalsh1932 5 місяців тому +1

    Needs more Quasar clips.

  • @coachgeo
    @coachgeo 5 місяців тому +1

    ... all can think of is the carbon flakes are acting like they say a stainless steel mesh/scouring pad would have if they didnt get destroyed .....

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      Yeah... I was kinda thinking this could be it as well... The hot ash almost acting like a catalyst or wick of sorts.

  • @mickgatz214
    @mickgatz214 5 місяців тому +1

    What's that blue engine block from?...

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      That's from a Kawasaki ZXi 1100. I'm eventually building it for a friend... I have one in my jetski that has a lot of mods. They sound amazing.

  • @ronlowther9044
    @ronlowther9044 5 місяців тому

    🤙

  • @mickgatz214
    @mickgatz214 5 місяців тому

    That High Temp thing was weird. I should have written down what I did...

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      Yeah... My temps were 215 for a while then around 230... then over 240 for a few days... At the end I had removed the vent cap and turned the oil flow down... and it was still spiking up quite high... I set it to 10 on the oil feed, and it shot up to 281C

  • @mechniack
    @mechniack 5 місяців тому

    Get a Arduino and program it yourself 😁👍

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      A viewer is sending me a control system that splits the pump output into two separate, individually controllable signals, to run two pumps.
      I have considered building my own control system, but I am too obsessive, and my channel would become an electronics channel, if I went down that road, haha.

  • @sammym.belfastchild
    @sammym.belfastchild 5 місяців тому

    Hey Joel , the results were lol , a lil like the video... all over da map.. Maybe a bit of both " over fueling and over oxygenation " for the unit , by your testing , the operation at the end was more than your expectations , other that temperatures to high an the glitch , so the burn ratio was more than likely good but just to much for the units abilities. I must say I'm not really a fan of the separate fuels being only diluted/blended at the point or near the point of entry... the oil should be properly blended or diluted into the diesel this I believe will solve many issues the diesel is flashing off while the oil has a retarded burn . IMO lol , blend your waste oil with whatever your ratio is or want , then filtered to two microns I'm sure the pump can take that .... I think the total blended fuel will see less buildup and better burn with less C02 emissions and better economy. lol and that's my 5 cents worth Joel.. so more messing around.. cheers thanks again for sharing...

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  5 місяців тому

      I have a fuel control system being sent to be by a viewer, and I am hoping that this helps with my testing.
      The problem with setting the fuel volume for the heater, is that, when it starts up, it requires a lot of fuel to keep the temperature up. If it gets below 200C, it will burn with a LOT of smoke (and make a bunch of carbon)
      However, once it is up and running hot, the heat will increase, despite the settings remaining the same - Same fuel input, same air input, but a lot more heat. The fuel system almost needs to be temperature reactive, decreasing fuel to maintain 230C, for example.
      Blending the fuel could help with it flashing off and burning cleaner. I plan on trying this with a gas oil blend at some point... as well as diesel. Now that I have established that it can burn pretty clean at 50% or more, that gives me something to work with.

  • @bikerboymc54
    @bikerboymc54 5 місяців тому

    Ok hear me out, have you ever heard of a fuel polisher? I came across a video of one and is separates water and debris from the fuel.
    I wonder if running oil through one would help reduce the build up inside the heater..

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      Filtering oil well is a good idea, but it makes very little difference when it comes to ash content, left behind. In my previous video, I tested totally unfiltered, very dirty ATF, and it had 5 grams of ash (slag) left behind, after burning 6L. When testing waste engine oil, there was 31 grams of ash in 6 litres.
      Even when you burn brand brand new engine oil, you get approximately the same amount of ash. I tested this last year.
      Heavy oil will always leave ash behind, while more refined oils like diesel, kerosene, (atf and hydraulic oil apparently) have less ash content.

    • @patrickday4206
      @patrickday4206 4 місяці тому +1

      Does the polisher make it shiny 😂

    • @loweredexpectations4927
      @loweredexpectations4927  4 місяці тому

      @@patrickday4206 I hope so !

  • @Spencer1609751
    @Spencer1609751 5 місяців тому +1

    So was my comment bad?

    • @tcmtech7515
      @tcmtech7515 5 місяців тому +4

      Did YT censor you already?

    • @Spencer1609751
      @Spencer1609751 5 місяців тому +1

      @@tcmtech7515 I have no Clue.

    • @WaffleStaffel
      @WaffleStaffel 5 місяців тому +2

      YT often hides or removes comments. Try sorting comments by time.

    • @DanDan-yy8sf
      @DanDan-yy8sf 5 місяців тому +1

      @@WaffleStaffel I'm having the very same problem, BUT I think if we make a comment as a "reply" it seems to post, so forgive me but I'd like to piggy-back this comment onto your post to test the theory.

    • @DanDan-yy8sf
      @DanDan-yy8sf 5 місяців тому

      yup it posted 😎