Peugeot 107 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement, same as Toyota AYGO, Citroen C1
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- Опубліковано 10 гру 2017
- Peugeot 107 Front Wheel Bearing Replacement, same as Toyota AYGO, Citroen C1
In this video I show how to replace the front wheel bearing on the car. a step by step guide to repair. A great DIY job.
Link to video of bearing puller review, • Freetec Bearing Puller...
Link To Amazon shop for tool used, www.amazon.co.uk/shop/aaanton...
Link to Bearing puller on Amazon, amzn.to/2OUcUAm
Link to new wheel bearing, £25 , amzn.to/3bHBLRs - Авто та транспорт
I enjoyed the video. Whenever I work on cars, I have the same experience that something that should be straight forward is stuck like it's welded together. I sometimes think it's me doing it wrong (occasionally, it is!) so it is strangely reassuring to see how you struggle as well - and also break those fiddly little plastic tighteners... when I open a door card, only half the suckers are alive when I'm done! Appreciate the very clear step by step and naming every part along the way. As a non-native English speaker I hadn't heard about a castle nut though I instantly guessed what you were talking about before the nut came into view. Good name, that, for a nut head shaped with the embrasures of a medieval castle tower parapet wall!
So true, things do go wrong, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Did two front bearing on my Mrs Citroen c1, smashed the old bearings out by placing hub on two bricks..... putting a correct size bearing press disk on the top of the bearing & with a thick strong bar & a 2 pound lump hammer & some brute force it will eventually come out, great video 👍
I love a good hammer 🔨 best tool in the box 👍🏻👍🏻
if you want to put back the new bearing, you should put him an overnight in the freezer , to make it less tight.... is just a little trick to make it easyer
Thanks for the great information 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Brilliant video Anton, thanks very much!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Love your vidz mate (albeit a Wednesdayite 😉). I’ve got a C1 and 108 so these have been great. Would like to see you do a timing chain job next😁 keep up the good work. Up the millers 👍
The timing chains are bomb proof, and won’t need changing, but if I do it will be on here thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Good clip as always, Anton.
Having just put lower Eibach springs on my 2010 Aygo, I have a tip to make this a bit easier, specially for anyone without a hydraulic ram.
I used the brute force method, not undoing the balljoint or removing the driveshaft, and jacking up the strut on the lower spring cup. Then, if you beat the hub carrier with a mini sledge, it is JUST possible to separate the strut foot from the hub carrier.
This is definitely the masochist's method, and is also dangerous, as you are compressing the spring...anything slips, you can be in big trouble. I damaged my right arm.
Sorry, thread drift.
The point I wanted to make is that to open the split in back of the hub carrier you don't need a ram and you don't need to bash the thing into next week either.
You just need a wedge about 4" long...tap this into the split after removing the pinch-bolt, tap it all the way in, so the split opens to the maximum depth of the steel wedge, and a baby could lift the strut foot free!
For the other front strut I removed the driveshaft, lower balljoint, drop link and track rod taper joint. MUCH quicker and a nice leisurely job.
I'd add a photoif I could of the wedge in position....I was surprised to find it, unused, in my toolkit!
😂😂 Thanks Betacam for the great information You have made my day 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 I reckon the wedge is made specifically for opening pinch-bolted sockets like this. I don't even recall buying it!
great job. I d like see more that lovely press machine .
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
you do a very good job, and on other cars very well, i hope that your car is underneath more beautifull is then this one,
I hope so too! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thank you for posting, Just a little worry, I didn't see you put back the split pin on the track-rod nut.
Thanks don’t worry, it’s on there 👍🏻thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Really good 'How to' vid, mate. With all the tinkering you seem to do on cars have you ever considered buying a Hydraulic floor press?. I bought my 12 Ton press off ebay for about £90 including delivery and its proven to be useful on more than one occasion for different applications.
Maybe one to look for in the future 👍🏻👍🏻
Hello what lubricant spray is best when doing this job please ? Don't want to damage / rot rubber parts.
My C1 is a 2005 model so I am expecting a lot of corrosion and rusted on parts etc.
This stuff is amazing amzn.to/2SvI2Lh Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Good video, do you live in Sheffield? Just wondered with you having a owls jacket on.
Good spot, but no it’s my sons old kit, he played for them⚽️ now it’s my garage attire 👍🏻👍🏻Thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻
HI can you help TRYING TO GET SOME NEW WHEELS ON MY 107 JUST GOT WPOLD 5,5j rsi 100 14" fit or what would you recommend Pete
Its all personal preference, I like the wheels with a lip, dish, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I did my 107 bearing today just used a 12ton press I bought off ebay for £98. Already used it for my motorcycle suspension. Well worth the money.. Do you have any videos of doing the front wheel alignment?
No, but it’s a great idea I will definitely sort one out, thanks for the great idea 💡👍🏻👍🏻
Nice video, thanks! 👍 Bingo! 😎
But please do not let the brake caliper hang in the brake hose (cirka 6:00) as it could lead to other problems.
Don’t worry about the brake hose, the Calipers are so small it won’t damage them, you can hang a donkey with these bad boys, thanks for the great comments 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 true, I hanged a donkey and the donkey is now dead, rip donkey.
Does anyone know if the stub axle on c1 Mk 1 is the same as on mk2? They appear remarkably similar. Can get a low mileage stub axle that will save going to garage to press a bearing if this turns out to be the case.
I have used this tool and it works well, ua-cam.com/video/hPfN_kVaf1s/v-deo.html Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Hey, any tips on how to pry the lower control arm into the knuckle? I cant seem to pry it low enough for the "bolt" to insert into the knuckle (hole) :(
turn the steering the other way, and use a bar as a lever, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 thnx, made it :)
I am quite new to doing DIY on this car - so no grease at all ? I always assumed you packed grease in there ?
The bearings are all sealed so no grease needed, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
good video. would it be easier to just buy a new hub rather than just a bearing? i dont have access to a press
You can use one of these amzn.to/4aAL5no like in this video ua-cam.com/video/hPfN_kVaf1s/v-deo.html Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Took my wheel off r/h drive Peugeot 107 2007. NO wheel bearing assembly just a nut!! Is that the old method:? Undo nut and replace small bearing? Totally confused. Joe.
Thanks for watching, but you need to Watch the video again, the nut just holds the drive shaft in, you need to remove the hub. 👍🏻👍🏻
Before taking the hub off the car, you could have taken the disc off and then used a slide hammer to pull the centre hub out of the bearing.
Thanks for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I know from experience locating the noisy wheel can be difficult. In the past I've used the method of when the noise is louder on a curve it's the loaded (ie outer) side. Would you say that is the best approach when spinning by hand reveals nothing unusual?
Thanks again for the upload!
ps - why the hell is everything on your 107 so damn tight! haha
pps - just seen your other video - doh.
Thanks for watching, yes you are spot on, but in this case it made no difference When cornering, i was only able to pin point it when the front was lifted and the wheels driven by the engine, a tricky one. As for the tight bolts a think some more spinach needed lol 😂
Damn goood video :D
Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I recently took my Aygo to the garage for a wheel bearing change. Replaced them with SKF ones. But after few hundred miles it's howling like old one. As know a bit about mechanics I've noticed when guy was pressing bearing in, he didn't pressed outer part. He pushed it against inner bearing part. Is it likely that bearing got damaged at this stage and that's why I've got this noise again? I'm so mad as it wasn't cheap repair. Don't know what to do.
Take it back to the garage it should have a 12 month Warranty, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Just had mine replaced today. The garage charged £180.00 for 2 hours work and parts. They charged £66.00 per hour for labour, YIKES!!!
ouch! Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
on saterday i need to do the same , and i need to change the silent blocks as well
Hope it all works well 👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I have a aygo with 30k on it I suspect it has a wheel bearing issue?
I have videos on both the front and rear wheel bearings, hope this helps Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Nice touch with abs sensor...hold the Caliper up tho
Thanks for the comments 👍🏻👍🏻
A lot of work!
Definitely worth it, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
You're a brave lad. I'm getting too old for the home mechanic lark. What with the 'Wednesday' badge? You don't sound like a Dee Dah from Sheffield.
Ha, My son played for Sheffield Wednesday, we are in Leicester, 700 miles a week for 2 years driving to training and games fantastic times, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Just done a pair of fronts on an aygo... do not remove the abs sensor, it will probably break (mine did), the bearing press's out of the front of the hub, so sensor can stay in place (2nd side was done like this), both inner races were stuck on the hub flange, ground them down near as and split with a cold chisel, as a matter of course I bought some new outer CV joints, I only did one as it appeared to be stuck on the shaft, would not come off, even cut off the joint and tried a 3 leg puller on the inner knuckle, had to cut that off in the end! wish I hadn't bothered, stripped calipers and carriers, mixture of both siezed, new lower arms (good considering 120K!) and rod ends, cheap 6 ton ebay press with a 10T jack ;) new anti roll bar bushes which were nasty cheap ebay jobbies. 1 hub circlip siezed in.... day job (home) turned into 2 with hours wasted on trying to remove the cv joint.... one tip, on the hub pinch bolt area, knock a cold chisel up between the gap, hub will pull off easier :) good video, giving a quick insight to potential problems, Cheers....... oh, use old bearing to to press new one in (outer) don't press on the bearing inner race (pressing on inner to remove is ok) ;)
Thanks for the great information, really appreciate your comments, sounds like you have sorted everything out now, well done 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🚘
The official Toyota service manual does say use a cold chisel to open the pinch area
@@onlyme972 ehm, where do I find this official service manual? O_o
How long did this job take please?
About an hour, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
I am having difficulties getting the old bearing out. I removed the hub with a slide hammer and now I am trying to remove the remaining bearing with a bearing removal tool (the screw type) but I can't get it to move. I applied so much force that the 32mm key already started to bend. Any ideas?
Also, to remove the bearing, I need a smaller compression disc than the outer bearing diameter, otherwise I would damage the ABS sensor. But can I press the bearing out by just pressing against the inner ring? You did not remove the ABS sensor as far as I can tell from the video. So which compression disc size did they use in the workshop press?
The original bearing does not seem to have a circlip. The new bearing (SKF) has one. In your video, you mounted a circlip. Could it be that different brands of bearings have different dimensions? How do I find out if my bearing needs the clip?
There must be a circlip 100% , and yes press the old bearing out using the inner ring from behind, I did it without removing the abs sensor, but used a hydraulic press. Hope this helps good luck 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks! But in your video at 12:16, you can see the inner side. Looks exactly like on mine: ABS sensor can be seen over the bearing, but no circlip can be seen. It looks like the bearing is just pressed against a step inside the hole. But at 13:56, just before you press the bearing out, a circlip can be seen. This looks completely different than 12:16. Also, at 14:13, after installation, the ABS sensor can't be seen anymore?
Why did you not remove the dise retaing screw before removing the pads
Just swing up the caliper, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
Thank you for a good video.
If I could just say that it is possible with close fitting sockets, large hammer, safety glasses and good support of the hub to drive out the Drive Flange from the bearing and to drive out the bearing from the hub. Should the bearing split and leave the inner race on the flange you can weaken by carefully cutting into the bearing inner race and splitting with a cold chisel (angle grinder and cutting disc). Following a good clean of all surfaces and with a large vise or large dia threaded rod the bearing can be pressed/pulled into the hub. Supporting the bearing correctly the flange can be pulled in. I have successfully replaced many like this. I would wrap an old towel around the hub before hammering out the Flange/ Old Bearing, saying all of this a Press is the correct way to do it. A good tip re opening the hub to shock absorber, I usually use a small cold chisel to gently spread, will often slide off the s/a then with no pressing involved or hammering.
I Have bought one of these freetec Bearing removers, Link to video is ua-cam.com/video/hPfN_kVaf1s/v-deo.html and its fantastic, used it a couple of times now, saves a lot of effort, Thanks Rod for the great information👍🏻👍🏻🛠
How much was your pit??
The pit was more time and effort, than money, I cut the concrete floor, shuttered the sides, back filled concrete, put in electric, and tiled the garage, but it was worth it👍🏻👍🏻
How come you did not grease up bearings.
The bearings are sealed and you can’t grease them, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@aaanton11 sorry did not realise they was sealed but do now lol just done some today pain in arss to get old ones out.
I'm getting 68-75mpg in my 2012 Aygo :D. I'd be disappointed if one of my tanks worked out at 50mpg xD
you must be a very efficient driver well done, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
75!! Driving downhill, on a dry warm Summer day. Starting with a warm and ready engine, no AC, etc. Tires inflated like the economy and definitely not the mother in law on the back... LOL 😂 Than there's the real world! ;-)
where is the part of removing small part of the bearing?
ua-cam.com/video/hPfN_kVaf1s/v-deo.html This is what I use now its fantastic, Thanks for the great comments👍🏻👍🏻🛠
1:06 into the video... Big amateur mistake! Gosh! I see it all the time!
NEVER undo bolts or nuts, on axle or wheels, by pulling the wrench up!
ALWAYS apply the force on a downward motion.
It's so damn simple and basic. Save your back, save your sweat, save your time! Allow the use of your body weight, by simply kicking the bar. Example: Like you do to start an old "thumper" (single cylinder) motorbike!
On top and just to add another advantage the wheel don't lift of the ground!
When your back is 20 years older you'll thank me for that! :-)
Edit: 10:05 no hydraulic ram needed! Wedge an old screw driver, chisel, etc. on the slot and it will loosen up the strut right away! ;-)
13:20 If you don't have an hydraulic press. A nice sledge hammer (>4kg) and a blunt chisel. Will make the disassemble of the old bearing a breeze! Notice the ABS sensor should be removed, risk of breaking (smashing) it. Set it on some solid piece of wood over a solid concrete floor and hammer it out. That simple! ;-)
To put the new one in, leave it in the freezer over night. Clean and lightly lube the matting faces.
I do have a 10 Ton press. But still use the sledge hammer for removal! It's that much faster... Usually come off on the third blow! Although to put the new one in the finesse of the press come into play. By then it's so easy, because of being frozen. ;-)
18:27 NEVER tight the grub screw like that, particularly with an impact wrench! About "hand tight" is MORE THAN ENOUGH! Notice the entire point of that grub screw is to momentarily hold the disk in place, just that. When you set the wheel in place. Will hold it all together. Rather simple and you'll never have to beat or heat it up to remove them.
Hope you find these tips useful. Cheers
Once again so much detail, thanks for being so passionate about my videos, & Thanks for the great information 😂👍🏻👍🏻🛠
@@Bo-electric - Incorrect! When the assembly is made to have the grub screw, use it. There's enough things to unbalance a rotating assembly. There's no need to "help" unbalance it by removing elements for no particular reason other than pure laziness!
@@Bo-electric - Yes, that' correct. The "function" is to hold the disk in place. And repeating myself, the "consequence" is (un)balance...
When you add or remove mass from a rotating assembly you're affecting it's balance. It's not rocket science, but it's basic engineering. Sorry if I didn't write a full essay on the subject! My time for that was more than 35 years ago!
Trough the life of the equipment, all those "tiny" details make the difference between a perfectly working vehicle. Or a piece of junk that no one will want to drive. They all add up.
Ever wonder why, so many complain about old cars rattling here and there... I'll repeat, they all add up. ;-)
BTW the 5 months was mere chance! Autoplay brought me here. Déjà vu LOL 😂