This $8 Product Saved My Faded 55 Year Old Paint Job (Amazing Results!)
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- This $8 Product Saved My Faded 55 Year Old Paint Job (Amazing Results!)
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Nice to see the old hard workin machines of the past being saved from the scrapper. Saving the past, hard woking men and women that put em together. All over north America the factories were full of proud hard workers keepin the economy and thier families rolling.. great series .
Amen friend. We should look after our heritage. No need to make new stuff if not necessary.
For those who are not familiar with the product be careful of what you buy
boiled linseed oil is good but regular linseed oil will ignite by itself with no spark
Thanks!
Although linseed oil is gentler than a lot of cuttinf compounds, I believe that it may still be smarter to go with a soft cut and hand polish followed by a ceramic coat. Itll keep the old paint looking good and it'll keep it from ever getting that bad again.
I got my old truck cut n polished a ceramic coated and it only lasted about a year.. mabey the coating was rubbish
Needs igl aegis
@@jrifda1ceramic coatings can have either their finish or hydrophobic properties fade away depending on which side the ph is in the soaps used. Using soaps that are ph neutral, and refreshing it with ceramic sprays (quick wax like) once every 2-3 months keeps it for 3-8 years depending on original coating
They actually used to varnish/coat/seal cars by using a variant of linseed oil called stand oil , mixed with turpentine. Stand oil is much more durable , yet more difficult to work with & takes a very very long time to dry. That’s probably why they stopped using it in the automotive industry around the early 1920s.
Back in the day we would just wipe a car down with transmission fluid and bam it was sold!! 😂
Or Best Food's mayonnaise 😅
Big question is how long did it last before it washed off.
Ya it looks great. Now take it down a dirt road and see what happens lol
😀
It’s all fun and games till you get a gust of wind
There will be more flies stuck to that truck than a elephants turd.
The guys at the local firehouse use WD40.
It doesn't stay oily and lasts for 6 months to a year.
The first time I ever seen an approach to shine up old cloudy paint with a method like this, I had to give it a try on an old 1980 Chevy conversion van that was getting extremely cloudy on top. I didn't know and had never heard anything about this before. I heard it a little differently though. One thing I like better in how you do it is that the fellow who made the other video suggested that I mix three parts BLO, two parts mineral spirits, one part WD40, and one part silicon protectant (like Armor All) and wipe it on as you did. To me your results are just as good, but from my experiences with BLO, I know it doesn't feel oily in about 24 hours, and that other mix seems to stay oily and collect dust for 3, or 4, or 5, days (and I live on dirt roads, so eve if I don't drive it . . .)-- it will wash up nicely after it finally dries out though. Something that guy did suggest that you may want to try though is before he applied his magic concoction, was that he went over every inch with warm water and SOS pads. The kind with soap on them already, and rinsed often to inspect each patch of how far 'into' it he was as he went. He suggested, advised, that this is not for good paint or clear coat because its abrasive, but to cut the dead, oxidized old paint off of better more colorful paint below the surface, at the same time, it will take off quite a bit of light surface rust and other unwanted deposits like bird, bug, tar, sap, and elm bud residues. I used SOS on my van and when I was done, you could tell the color was much better before I even applied the "juice" -- adding that was more about shine like a clear coat. I guess there are scratches after SOS, but they are so small that your eyes can't see a single scratch. All you see is as if you may have hit something with 800 or 1000 grit paper which would take off a shine,-- but where the is no shine to began with . . . Anyway, after the special sauce, it all looks great like your truck did.
Instead of Brillo pads why not use clay bar?
Wow I never thought an 8 dollar product to save the paint
Just use a light/medium rubbing compound bro. You need slight abrasion to bring back your paint. That’s doing nothing except polishing it, and that’s not gonna last long.
Why didn’t you use it on what it’s for. Your wood bed. Give it some life back.
the wood I would treat with the used oil engine oil
Boiled linseed oil also works really good for faded plastic bumpers and every other plastic that’s faded on exterior of vehicle
A product you should all try is Flood. It’s some chemical you mix in with paint to prevent streaks. But it works great as a glossy clear coat for metal. I used it to restore my husky pliers and tools at work. It’s been months with regular use and rust hasn’t returned. Their are a few videos about it. I highly recommend to give it a look.
Penetrol will streak badly if it's wiped on like that.
Flood Penetrol main ingredients...naphtha and linseed oil.
Oil to "save" paint I dont think so......cutting compound and a good buffing tool is the way to go for a permanent fix
buffing wont work on paint with no clear coat, but this definitely isnt a save
@@adriansawa8742 The body shop I use would disagree
Single stage paints have been cut and buffed forever, just gotta be mindful of heat.
A good product to use is penetrol you get it in the paint section at home depot it will give you the shine with out the oily residue and it dries like clear coat
I plan on using penetrol on my 70 F100
@@johnweisinger7390 me too on my 69 F 100.
Just tried penetrol on my 03 f250's faded hood. Looks like a million bucks from 10 feet but up close it isn't leveling as well as I'd like. Anyway, nice fix before full restoration. Thanks for reco!
@@rickchory6034 does it stay greasy?
@@rickchory6034 I watched a couple of videos on it and the guy said sometimes you have to keep wiping the excess off. He was applying it with a piece of sponge and had the penetrol in a small container from some kind of microwave food. Just that little bit was enough to do his whole truck and he had to keep wiping the excess off with another piece of sponge.
how long did the shine last since you applied linseed oil? would you recommend using it after an application of a clear coat?
Did this on my red 85 Chevy Van after seeing this video. Worked pretty good. Had to go over it twice as I had a few streaks after the first coat. Looked great, held out for 6ish months. I’m NOT going to do this again as I plan on getting the van repainted. It’s great for a quick shine though. 👍
If that doesn't last as long as you'd like I'd suggest a 2k clear coat ontop of the orange. Way less work than Caleb's truck since your just spraying a nice clear coat over the orange to make it shiny/preserve it. Old truck patina is one of the best parts about these builds.
Shows your lack of knowledge on the subject. Can't clear over it now. Kinda like when we would use gas to reduce paint when we ran out of thinner, guess what happens?
@@wildestcowboy2668 obviously he would clean the surface before painting genius.
@@superdwarf Shows even more lack of knowledge, again guess what happens when u reduce paint and then apply the paint to the car? It will not stick, no matter how much u clean it!
If you haven’t already done it, you should apply some linseed oil to the grill as well.
Does that bring the shine back. I've been thinking about using a brillo pad also
Loving this truck man. Looks good. Thanks for making good content for us to watch.
If you let the Linseed Oil dry and keep it dry go over it with a good quality hard wax gives a deep glass like shine that is water resistant and a rag will just slide off the finish.. The Linseed oil can stil get sticky if you leave it in the sun on a hot day if you dont seal it with wa, and it's summer here and been in the hot sun with now sticky issue.. Give it a try
Told ya. Knew that paint would come around with the Boiled Linseed oil.
I might have lightly buffed the paint before then applied the oil.
It will dry out a bit and dull up. Depending on if you keep it 8n the rain or a shed, and the sun. You will have to redo it.
Unless that truck was a total repaint there was no clear on it. No one uses clears at least till the 80s, mostly 90s.
If put on that thick, it might be sticky for a while, but will also last longer before having to repeat. though still go to the self serve car wash and spray wax the underside and engine bay except the intake, plus down the doors, door hinges, and lightly under the dash to protect all the wiring from corrosion. then hit the muffler with silicone tire shine.
I wonder which is better, spray wax on top of linseed oil? or linseed oil on top of spray wax?
@@alan6832 well wax probably won't stick on top of oil. And the wax may keep some of the oil from penetrating the paint. Which is what the oil does. So I would say just oil.
This is old school stuff here
@@natevanlandingham1945 Won't it attract dirt? How long does it last usually?
@@doclull1989 yea dirt will stick. It is oil. But you want to wipe it off. I don't think he has gone back and buffed the extra out. You don't want it to be sopping oily. I have heard it will last a couple months depending on if you wash it and do you store it outside in the rain or a garage
Just did my 1991 Volvo 240. Wish I knew this years ago.
Boiled linseed oil is an old school finish that was used frequently in years past. It’s a good option for a project like this truck.
Although this is true, its far from ideal, and it definitely wont last, sort of like a greasy petroleum based tire shine. The best way for this kind of paint is to hit it with a clay towel, hand polish, and finish with a ceramic or graphene coat. Either will do the job just fine, just dont expect the ceramic coat to last as long.
I used this on my old vw van. Great stuff. I used to have to reapply it. But it saves the patina.
How often did you have to reapply it
@@irvinmaneta1442 every 3 months. More if it rains alot.
I found mixing some mineral spirits made it less sticky/tacky and brought the gloss down a bit.
Screw the haters: this ride is beautiful.
You need something efficient for those half hour parts and grocery runs. maybe a slant 6 Dart if you like Dodge. They actually made slant 6 challengers. Dodge was late to the efficiency game with charger 2.2 turbo. Vegas, Pintos and Chevettes were a decade earlier and VW before that. If you are committed to Diesel, which this truck isn't, there are a few diesel Chevettes out there plus VW's and minipickups. Diesel rabbit pickups were the cheapest thing in Edmunds at one time.
Saving old vehicles is green if you can prevent them building a new one by doing so. Cash for Clunkers was not progressive or green, just boneheaded.
So I used penetrol on my old international. The reason I did this was #1; I wanted to maintain all the patina including surface rust. #2; I didn't want it to become a dust magnet and wanted to be able to wash it easily. #3; I was afraid that if I did ever decide to paint it, I would have issues getting all the oil out of the metal. The penetrol has held up very well over the last year only fading slightly, and best of all it's a paint additive, so no contamination worries.
Penetrols good stuff! Good idea
Penetrol is an oil paint additive, that increases paint dry time, makes it flow better and lay down very smooth. Used alot in sprayers. Never heard of just painting it on. Might try it.
So not only can penetrol be used as a paint additive, it can be used to revive faded fiberglass gelcoat. There's instructions right on the container for use on boats and campers. Since it has such a slow dry time it can be brushed on with no visible brush strokes. After it dries (takes about 2 days), it's basically just a clear coat. And if you scuff it for any reason, just wash the area and touch it up. So far I've used it on an old International truck and a couple other small projects. I'm getting ready to use it on an old Rambler too that have perfect patina. I couldn't be more happy with the results.
I just used Penetrol on the trim on my WJ -- looking good so far.
@@jakwire TJ is
Id like to see what it looks like 6 months from now or even after the first wash
Yeah, because dust and bugs don't stick to oil....right? LOL!
That truck most likely used an acrylic enamel paint in '65, not a base/clear. Base/clear is the hot set up today, and a factory red paint would really make that truck pop.
I always preferred the 1 stage enamel or even an oil-based paint to base/clear. Nothing like that deep mirror look to a well polished enamel. Clear coat just makes me think of someone who's too lazy to keep their car clean. Just look at all of the modern cars with faded headlights lenses.
Another awesome Dodge...
Could we get a update on what going on with the truck and what the plans are
Definitely looks good! My only concern is linseed oil tends to get gummy when applied thick and allowed to try. Guess well see how it holds up! Looks good though!
If it’s boiled linseed oil it won’t gum up 👍🏻
Take a high grit abrasive pad and water and go around and take off that oxidized layer and knock down rust spots and paint peels and it would look perfectly smooth and more of like a high quality petina finish.
try this product called “magic gatas” its like that oil but it last about a week or so before it gets fed up with dirt and youll have to re apply again. but hey its not bad for a daily driver with beat up oxidized paint.
Don’t pant it keep it looks good like That. but pant the bumpers black and it will look sick
Looks great I've done it before and works good and goes a long way
Looks good now BUT, Don't you think it's now a dirt magnet like silicon. What about after the first few rains and it's all over the glass ? How about a follow-up after a week or 2 or 3 ?
Metal is porous it will absorb the oil and the old paint believe it or not it last a long time.
Start with a Comet wash to remove the oxidation before applying the linseed oil.
I drive an old Scout 800. Faded. So I did 3/4 linseed and 1/4 spirit oil. Perfection.
Would recommend when you get gas for it get the premium because its older and not made for all the ethanol in the cheaper gas
Hate to tell you this, but all gas (regular, medium and premium grades) contain up to 10% ethanol. The ethanol is not the big issue for pre-ethanol days built vehicles, its the lack of lead that causes valves to fail and other maladies. Ethanol is mandated by the EPA to reduce emissions (and subsidize corn farmers). You can still buy ethanol free gas, but it is expensive and hard to find. Here is a link to a database (user maintained) that list stations that have ethanol free gas in the U.S. and Canada: www.pure-gas.org. For owners of vehicles that were manufactured in the pre-ethanol days, there are lead "substitutes" you can buy in auto part stores to add to gas and help save valves.
@@lazerbeam3928 ty!💚🌵🦅
Linseed oil and paint thinner,so it’s not gummy! Mix in a separate container.
Put paint thinner on 55 year old paint?! 😂
Dude you do small areas, rub it in good and then let dry around 2 mins. Then take a clean cotton cloth and buff off, it will shine like a mirror! When done in large areas an left on, it becomes a dust magnet. Hope I helped!
It would do wonders for that wooden bed also
For sure and it would last a hundred years if done right, top and bottom
I used this on my military truck. Looks good for almost a year.
Now I am starting to enjoy cause no more little kid jirations and it is good. I think that if you add some fine fine steel wool to the arsenal and go over the turn signals on the fenders... they used to be chrome but the steel wool will knock back that rust and enhance the chrome that is still there... until finished with new at some time, it buys time to that will do list and the same with the grill as the paint that gets pulled into a cream and then resticks to that rusty look and then the rust just goes away and your going to say "This is good, fuck three thousand dollars worth of paint..." I like it and might just live. There is such a thing too as Molasses and water... it is not fast but WOW! You take like the roof lens's and the chrome holders, and just submerse them into the solution for say maybe two to more weeks and it just keeps working like a homebrew thing of fermenting and it takes old steel and turns it bright like new steel. A few youtube videos out there on this. My first one was a british fellow used it on some old rig that should of been hauled to the dump but instead of buying anything, it was remove and soak and put back on. I know if you had seen it, you would make a tank to hold the stuff, bolts included as it ate all the rust off his rims to make look better than new and when it got running was a before and after you just have to see to believe. Just as good as it gets for a poor man to take a little extra time and do but results are a showstopper. At least when you paint a rim or what ever, it is so easy.... it is the same process that the guys in a chrome shop use as they stick the item to be chromed into a vat and prep for the next step. The stuff they use would take the skin off your hands it mear seconds. This molasses will do the same but doesn't hurt you or your skin. I takes time but time that you can afford and like emblems off the hood thrown in to soak will really look new. Thank you for slowing down and acting totally different. Its a damn good look and will in the long run get sponsors n subscribers
Looks like a giant dust magnet
New subscriber to your channel. The red dodge is in really good shape for its age.
I’m using 60% boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits 40%
Mix well and rub on and clean rag wipe off good
Will collect dust but easy wipe off or wash off 😊😊😊
Works
I tried that on an old gun stock and hated it. Dripped, had runs, never dried and was sticky. If I did that to a car I would have 12,000 bugs stuck to it. BLO takes 30 days to dry/cure. Seems like a really bad idea. Impossible to remove now also.
I did this to my brothers 64' Chrysler Newport. Worked GREAT!👍
How does it look after it drys, just curious
now used the linseed oil and use it on the wood on the stake bed floor next what about the rims
I don't get it, what happened to the oxidized paint?
I just wiped it down with a Wypall shop towel on my dark blue midnight metallic truck but it just looks darker in color and maybe a little more shine on it. But on your vehicle looks really great I put the towels stored in water. Gonna leave them in there until tommorow before dispose of them because I saw this stuff catches on fire spontaneously.
It looks good but never really dries and stays tacky or sticky. Used straight Penetrol, it will leave a dry finish and still look good.
Pretty amazing how enamel paint that was sparingly sprayed on cars and trucks in the early yeats really does hold up
Does it stay wet or feel sticky seems like dust would stick to it?
Yes it does and it came out spotty
Looks good. I am in favor of painting it to bring it back to it's original beauty. Can't wait till you tackle the interior. I think it will look awesome.
Could’ve gotten rid of that problem with $8 dollars of lighter fluid
Hell yeah dude that sht works great. Just got done with my 67 Camaro with some linseed oil. I did a Rustoleum rattle can job, and it evens out spray can paint jobs as well.
You used on a 67 Camaro?
Cool truck. Loving the series. Keep them coming!
That is a old used car lot trick ,.LOOKS good for about 3-4 days if it doesn't rain but its down hill after that. In other words use it if you think you can sell it in a day or two
Try Zep Floor polish dry's and keeps shine 1-3 coats is all you need
Looks better than any product wax or polish I put on my vehicle if would of knew about this at first wouldn't of been getting the other products. Does it last a long time on a vehicle.
Exploded linseed oil rags was confirmed on myth busters
I used to wipe it with some engine oil and she gets beautiful for few weeks then repeat, now we can use 2000 grit or 2500 and apply a thin coat of laquer
Not gonna lie I’ve never heard of that oil and I definitely didn’t know you could use it on paint. Are you gonna keep it original paint or paint in the future?
Linseed oil is probably the most common thing used on wood that will be outside all of the time. Stakeside wood, old bed wood, etc. Using it on paint is just cuttin' corners trying to make the old paint look good. That paint can be saved (what paint is left anyhow) with good polishing/buffing/waxing.
It's like my Father always said, people can never find the time to do things right but can always find the time to do them over🏁👍🇺🇸
Don’t go down a dusty road dippin it could get nasty on another note if you sanded the wood bed linseed is great for wood too protection Guaranteed
It dries after a while. Faster if you go back and wipe off the excess. He used way too much.
Incredible results! I would assume if you touch the pain now you will get the linseed oil on your hands?
After it dries, you won’t get it on your hands
@@DippinDiesel wow! Very impressive. I'm glad you did this video. I've been building/restoring cars for years and never knew about this
Man you crushing it!! Old truck looks
And feels young again. Keep up the great work!👍🏼
I am going to try it my 74 f 100.
BTW/FYI Boiled Linseed oil per gal at lowes is now $ 34.00 per gal.
The lacquer based factory paint oxidized over time. The oil just removes the top layer and some junk. If you cut buff and wax you will restore and protect the paint. You can can't wax the truck with the oil on it.
Good looking Truck Diesel!
Try a product called revive it you want believe it for real!
Gasoline does the same thing. I use to have a red riding mower and I would shine it up with some gasoline although you have to be extremely careful with it. I did not put that much on a rag. A little bit went a long way.
It Looks good, but I think some more rains later, and the paint looks faded, too. The "boiled linseed oil" washed out. Now, the old paint Looks good, but save it with "silk matt clear lacquer".
I would cut and wax the paint ,then se linseed on the rusted patches .
I would imagine this only works until the first rain.
Also that truck never had clear coat. Definitely a single stage...maybe laquer.
So how’d it last? It’s a gorgeous truck and you got a new subscriber.
My Dad use to use lemon oil in a can on his 72 Country Squire on the fake wood decal. Before armorall
you should buy a cabover semi truck and restore it after you finish this truck
It would’ve been better if you did a one month comparison from when it was fresh to a month later than only one hour later
Linseed oil is the ultimate lipstick for a pig!
You should use the rest on wood bed
I did something like that with transmission fluid on weekends when I wanted my old faded car to shine. It would last until we'd get a hard rain and most would wash off. Eventually, I just got a $400 Macco paint job.
my GF says as she passes by.."he looks like a frank" so i dunno if ya named it...but thats our 2 cents lol
Dang, that paint looks good enough to where you could have buffed it out instead.
Do you find dust, dirt etc gets stuck to it? Or does it have a non sticky easy finish?
nice job man, glad you saved it... not sure you've said, but it appears to have a wide block 318 in it?
361
@@DippinDiesel ahh, big block... very cool. plenty of stuff for the "B" series big blocks now also. again, glad you got it and are fixing it up
So does the stuff stink? If so does the smell go away? Does it dry or does it stay all oily on the car?
Bring the mullet back
okay now lets wash the truck.. and see what happens next haha
How long did the shine last?
Very impressed
Try a wipe on clear
Hi D.D. new subscriber here it wouldn't hurt to change the fuel filter. Did you ever get that mouse out? Are you going due any overhaul on the carburetor and that transmission? When you mentioned the miles it could be 155 thousand or whatever that miles was but not bad for a old truck nice job. Just remember you from a junk yard.