How to: Fix/Repair faded flaking damaged Clear Coat Paint - Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 гру 2021
- The Clear coat was faded and flaking on my $350 Acura Legend, to the point that the paint would have to be sanded and re-painted in some areas.
Part 2 - Wet Sand and Polishing: • How to: Wet Sand + Pol...
Products used:
Clay Bar: amzn.to/3DVNcl3
Meguiars E-7200 sanding block: amzn.to/3EUotPo
3M Wetordry Sponge Pad #20: amzn.to/3ykdOv7
masking paper 18": amzn.to/3TXGvZX
Masking Paper machine 18": amzn.to/3EUqbjR
800 grit sand paper: amzn.to/3EUpF5p --- if out of stock, try 3M 800 grit: amzn.to/3xL95nk
1000 grit sand paper: amzn.to/3pPDJHf
1200 grit sand paper: amzn.to/3m25ICm
1500 grit sand paper: amzn.to/3pSwjTv
2000 grit sand paper: amzn.to/3ynWlln
Scotch 218 tape 1/4": amzn.to/3s0m6aa
Scotch 218 tape 1/8" amzn.to/30lSetw
Prep-All: amzn.to/31YfrCm
Spray Max Spot Blender: amzn.to/3pQkVYl
Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter amzn.to/3bYEpTJ
Duplicolor Scratch Filler & Primer amzn.to/3dXe0Iy
DupliColor Primer Sealer: amzn.to/3AgNuRL
(I earn a small amount on each product purchased through an affiliate link - Thank you for helping support this channel!)
How to: Spray Automotive Paint in your Garage with Professional Results - Complete Guide! • How to: Spray Automoti...
How to Repair & Paint a Scratched Plastic Bumper - Easy Fix!
• How to Repair & Paint ...
I don't have Patreon or ask for donations but you can support the channel with some rad gear from my store: 6thgeargarage.com/merchandise/
Follow Us:
Instagram: 6th_gear
6thGearGarage - Авто та транспорт
This was my Grandparents exact car. You bought it from my uncle Ron. So many memories in this thing. Thanks for taking rehabing this!
I'm glad things worked out the way they did, talking to your uncle and learning the history of the car and how well it was cared for before it sat. Restoring it has been a great experience, I love these old golden era Hondas.
That machine is in pristine condition for the age.
It's not often you hear Tchaikovsky in the background of an auto repair video. Then followed by the Blue Danube. Love it!
Thanks, I tried to make it timeless. Nothing worse than clicking on a video from 2011 and hearing dubstep!
Came for the repairs, stayed for the music. A true luxury experience.
Quick tip. Prior to painting at any temp unless it's 120°F out I put my paint cans 80% submerged in very hot water 15min +/- prior to painting. It thins the paint inside and allows good pressure to build. 😉
Great advice, thanks!
Will that help prevent the paint from gushing out like in the video?
@@danh9676 that all depends. Sometimes the compressed air leaks from the cans however yes because the heat from the hot water thins the paint as well as adds to the pressure inside. As they teach in science class... Hotter it gets the more faster molecules and pressure gets where as cold things slow down and minimize. Another good example of that would be an automotive battery which is why it gives you also cold cranking amps.
@@s.o.s.exploration2412
I was just curious, I will eventually want to paint my car so I am starting to learn now.
Thanks.
@@danh9676 Was a fair question. I've done sections myself and I still research for any tips myself. Knowledge has really no drawbacks. More yuh know the better off you are.
I now understand why getting a paint job is very expensive. This is a lot of work and takes very special equipment, talent, patience, and labor. Thanks for sharing. This was an awesome and fun video to watch.
this guy speaks sooo good better than a shop teacher! so much pleasure to listen to him.
Thanks for watching!!
Nice work. I was in the collision industry (specializing in paint) for 10+ years. A little advice, if you want it: 1) always use primer filler over areas where you've sanded through layers of paint. I noticed you didn't do that on the hood. A few weeks or months after the paint job, you'll probably start to see "mapping" or "bullseyes" of the layers as the new paint shrinks down. It's not as noticeable right after painting. Using the 800 wet was good, though, to prevent sand scratch swelling, which also happens as the paint shrinks down tight on the substrate surface. 2) Tack off the color (it should be dry enough to do so) just before starting the 1st coat of clear. I think a lot of the junk in the clear could have been avoided. Tack off the paper masking as well, as any dust collected on the masking will blow off and can land back in the fresh paint because of the powerful blast of air from the gun. 3) Forget tack coats of clear. Two wet coats. You could make the first coat a little more dry, but not that much. You need to get enough clear on in two coats to provide enough UV protection for the color. Keep in mind that wet sanding and buffing the clear will remove some of that UV protection, so the idea is to lay the clear on heavy enough to still provide UV protection even if you do have to cut and buff.
Also, where'd you get that Planet Color clear? That is the darkest clear I've ever seen come out of the can. Some clears are yellowish, but if a professional painter came across that, they'd never use it. That dark of a color out of the can could mean there's a problem with the clear. Barrett Jackson clears, primers, and colors, are just repackaged Dimension products. Even DC5020 is a very transparent clear coat when poured out. At the prices I'm seeing online for the Barrett Jackson clear kits, though, I wonder if it's discontinued, or if it's Finish 1 clear coat. FC720 maybe. When I worked for SW, though, they told us it was repackaged Dimension.
Thanks for the advice! I got that Planet Color clear from my old advertising job, where PC/Sherwin was one of our clients. That was 5+ years ago... perhaps it yellowed due to age? The kits were made for Pep Boys I believe, but have been long discontinued. My 85 Toyota was painted with the Planet Color Red Hot Red kit. I miss the days of free paint...
Thanks for taking the time to explain this
@@kennyh5083 Gotta love all the YT hack DIY'ers.........
Great add’l tips Richard - thanks!
Thanks
I painted an entire car including clear coat with rattle cans. It had bad fading and peeling all over. In it's condition it was only worth about $2000. I sold it today for $6000. The paint job wasn't perfect but it looked 100x better than it did before. Was a lot of work but ended up being a fun project. I learned a lot. I used your video as a guide as well as a bunch of other ones. Thanks
How much did the cans of paint cost
What can brands did you use
@@cztkxz410250:27
@@AntonioLopez-kw3ev a rattle can at Canadian tire costs around 22 bucks a can. Others such as clear coast go from 11 to 30 bucks. Don’t forget all the rest of the bullisht like sandpaper 12 bucks for 5 squares it all adds up to around 500 bucks depending on how much paint you use. It might be cheaper to get a spray gun but I wouldn’t know
@@AntonioLopez-kw3ev * if you paint the whole car
The paint leaking out of the can is usually a result of the company that made your paint not installing the proper nozzle for the can. It the stem of the spray nozzle is too loose it will gush and splatter everywhere. I usually keep all my old tips from previous cans just in case the wrong nozzle or a worn out nozzle is in the can. Always clean them with Acetone and blow them out with compressed air. Also heating up the can after you fix the nozzle will allow the paint to flow beautifully and flow out better. I hope this helps. We have all had that frustration from paint can splatter.
had alot of spray can problems. Duplicolor is usually decent.
One thing I’ve learned from not having a paint booth is to create your own! Cheap tarps from harbor freight hung from the ceiling on three sides ( four if painting in a shed or barn ) and a clean shop floor is a must ! Place a few box fans on low 50:27 in front of garage door blowing air out of shop and put cheap ac filters over them to catch any overspray so your not blowing it outside and onto other things! Next find a way to filter the air coming in from the man door into your spray area! I used an old screen door and zip tied it to my tarps that are stretched tight. That’s the other tip make sure your tarps or drop cloths, whatever your using to create a temporary booth is secure enough that if there was a blast of wind from outside that it’s not going to blow against the vehicle your painting! Last tip I have is to set up your booth after you have prepped the vehicle!! Otherwise you will have dust from sanding all over your sides and floor and the blast even from spray cans can dislodge the dust particles and wreak havoc! I roll up my tarps and leave them hanging from ceiling and when I’m sanding anything I have my shop fan blowing as much dust out of my shop as possible! Another tip, if you have a compressor when u roll vehicle outside use the blower nozzle on compressor to blow out crevices prior to washing and that way you get more dust out of hidden area!
I'll soon be painting a car I did major rust repair on, this is my first time so this video was REALLY helpful. I've watched a lot of UA-cam videos over several months and tried to find something like this but got buried under so many pro autobody shop videos that live in a different reality than the DIYer, although many will be titled something like, 'Paint your car yourself', or 'Fix peeling clearcoat in a matter of minutes!'. I've wasted many hours of time. You start watching a supposed DIY video for newbies but the guy is in a state of the art paint booth using SATA guns and stuff like clear base, expensive blending agents and paint mixes and saying things like 'I used 10-15% more reducer' with no explanation, or not filming a few key steps but not telling you that let alone what he did, etc. And most of these guys can't teach at all, like they give no thought to what they're going to say before turning on the camera or maybe have the gist of an idea and just start talking and assume it's all going to come out good. Sorry for the rant! Again, great video and great instruction. Thanks again for making content for the other 99% of us.
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your thoughts! I agree 100%, so many videos skip details that they expect you should know. Well not everyone has experience in working on their own car so I try to be as detailed as possible.
Great job dude and great detailed advice. I was feeling your pain with the leaking can!
Regardless of how well you paint it’s always good to go over with wet sanding to make sure it’s smooth and consistent the attention to detail makes a great paint job
great point
Like a few professional painters have commented on here , if you lay your clear right you shouldn’t need to wet sand! You have to keep in mind that your going to cut and buff the car b4 u wax it and the cutting compound is going to remove a small amount of clear. Mostly the imperfections if done correctly but still going to remove some from whole car. So if you wet sand and then cut and buff you risk removing to much clear and not leaving enough UV protection, worse case you remove to much in the trouble area that u focus on and it looks splotchy or faded in certain light!
I have never painted professionally! I have however done professional detailing years ago and worked with professional painters that trusted my work enough to hand off the car after they painted and cleared it for me to cut and buff and then polish! I learned that if you prep correctly and paint in a clean well ventilated area you will notice that there are less chances for things going wrong!
This video was exactly what I needed. I appreciate the whole video with the ups and downs that you dealt with. I was planning on doing some touch up on one of my vehicles. Thanks for keeping it real.
All things considered, you did a fantastic job for a DIYer. Be cautious, sometimes neighbors report you, and it's not good. Occasionally, I don't think you will have a problem. I did this type of work for 22yrs and there are so many new products out now, I would be a rookie. Great job, enjoy your efforts.
Thank you! I'm fortunate to have cool neighbors :)
Report for what?
What are you talking about ?
Just exactly what is he doing unlawful ?
For Contaminating the air where their kids live, as he doesn't have filter for the outdoors.
@@glennjames7107 Airborne chemicals that aren´t being extracted into a special filter as they would in a paint booth, 2K topcoat especially is highly toxic , I myself am fairly easy going with neighbors when it comes down to it, but I doubt I´d be keen on having a one spraying on a regular basis.. most people have no clue how bad this stuff is for your lungs, especially on a regular basis.
You do nice work...Got new door seals for my Toyota and went to your video to see how...I like getting a look at how things are attached ect, before I tear into it....removing the dash was a big hit to...the vent clips where a mystery.....Keep them coming
You had a couple small mistakes but for someone working out of their garage you did a great job. Nice brother
Thanks 👍
Pro tip here,work your way to the center of hood and then do the other side of the hood and then the other side fenders, that way you don't have dry edges.This is a must on single stage paint. Good job and video
Good tip! I always appreciate some good advice.
@@6thGearGarage no problem,it really helps when painting in a unregulated garage like you have too . Slow reducer is your friend when it's hot out.
Awesome video. Great editing. Like the gentle music. Great narration. Good job explaining everything. The paint and body shop I worked in years ago, we used Dawn or Joy soap while wet sanding, made the sand paper last longer and made clean up eaiser. Great job!
I do appreciate your work. Not many people are up the task of trying anything out of their comfort zone (video games or whatever is on the phone) great job 👍
One of the best "paint your car at home" videos on UA-cam and I have watched many. The best part about this video is that you're not trying to shill one brand's product for doing x or y, just a very matter of fact description on how to obtain something resembling factory paint with rattle cans. I really enjoyed this video as well because It really covered all of the different problems/hurdles that come up with doing paint correction at home; missing clear coat, missing paint, a mixture of both, and how to correct without doing an entire panel. Thanks for making this, and please continue to make more. You truly have the DIY/Pro balance in a sweet spot!
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment! The channel is almost getting to the point where I can afford to do this full time, so the videos will keep coming!
This 6th Gear is a YT hack......if this is the best vid you've seen you better start watching more than 1 or 2 videos/channels..
Absolutely fantastic video in all aspects! I’m getting ready to refinish my wife’s 09 Q7 and I’m thinking I’m in for a very similar routine as you’ve shown here. Could be that the clear is still intact on my project but I now feel I’m ready if more is required. Thanks Bud - will definitely go through your channel and upcoming vids. Again, super job!
Look into getting U-Tech paint and primer. Very easy to work with and comes pre thinned. You just need to add the hardener. You can get an HVLP spray gun with 20 oz cup from Harbor Freight for $25 that will do the job nicely but you'll still need a decent sized compressor.
The key thing with any spray gun is to completely disassemble and clean between jobs.
great video! and most comments are helpful to learn more info also. its not that everything you did was perfect thats important, its your detailed information and the goal you had in mind with the outcome! you turned a 350$ car into a 3500$ car. its not a show car but now a gem for an older car for a first time driver or a low budget ride that looks good and a no rust. in my experience as a do it my selfer, most of the "pro" body men and painters want us to think its impossible to do any of this at any level without them and their "years of experience" not to say we can do equal work. but "goodnuf" is ok and we get better the more we do it too.
thanks for doing these
Thank you for the effort to show us your ways of doing this. Excellent video
For blending clearcoat lines like you did on your A pillars, put the paper on upside down (tape at the bottom, paper toward the roof) then lay it back over itself so it creates a rolled edge. Still can’t spray super heavy toward that edge but you won’t be left with a hard line.
Great tip, thanks!
That's a Pro Tip!
This is excellent. I just painted my jeep and had hard lined taped it away from my spray pattern in hopes it would "fade". It just created a gritty surface of several inches - plus the hard line. It made for a lot of wet sanding and poor blending. I'll definitely try this approach in the future.
perfect professional tip
I hope you don't mind a suggestion. Next time, you should try putting an HVAC filter in one door and seal around it, then put a fan blowing out the other door. Also, you should keep your floor wet to prevent dust from being kicked up as you walk around the car.
I always appreciate good advise, thanks!
@@6thGearGarage I have swirl marks in the clear coat on my black acura...buffing for an amateur like me.???
@@heberslade3588 That's usually an easy fix with paint correction. Here's how I removed the swirl marks on my black mustang before applying ceramic coating ua-cam.com/video/z2IVaqRdbOg/v-deo.html
@@6thGearGarage thanks very much gonna try ..regards and take care
You are so easy to follow. It’s like automotive Sesame Street, thank you for explaining everything you do🤘🏼
Glad! you found it helpful!!
Great video! Thank You for taking time to show mess ups and corrections!
good video and explanation , now I fell confident to paint my 4runner!!
In auto body school my teacher always says “Forget the tack coat for clearcoat, spray it how you would want it to look.” So in other words if you spray the clear thick, it will come out the gun smooth and glossy. You just have to be very careful with runs. There is a happy medium between wet glossy clear and runny clear. It takes practice but once you master it, you wont even have to wet sand your clear after you shoot it. All you will have to do is spot sand your dirt nibs and thats when you get a super professional result. 👍 Good luck man!
Edit: I forgot. If you do get runs in your clear, you can either scrape them flat with a razor blade, wetsand, and buff OR you can just wetsand them out but thats the more risky method.
THAT WHAT HE ALREADY SAID THE PLAN WAS DUDE, ECHO~ ECHO!
excellent advice I've trained a lot of techs in my long career. I've been painting and supervising paint techs for over my long career of 50 years and still working and running my our autobody shop i love this trade and hope more young people find it appealing.
I'm in the process of repairing a rust spot on my car and using body filler. Now I'm up to the primer and paint work, this video helps a lot. Thank you =)
Hose behind back and over shoulder really helps keep it clear while giving you ample reach over hood and roof of vehicle.
The background music makes this video absolutely excellent. Thank you for sharing this!!!
Nice work. Studying this to attempt to repair my paint on my 2011 challenger.
Just subscribe
If you plan to reuse a can of spray paint ,when your finished with it turn the can up side down and spray this ensures only air comes out and cleans your nozzle
well done! brilliant work and very well explained right through 👍
Hi there mate from Australia. Thank you for sharing your 'talents' with us all. I'm looking at a Ford Falcon today with the same issues, I'll give her a go. Love your work on the Honda, you brought her back!, Really nice work! Thanks again.
EK90s look great on G1 Legend, going to have my G1 to sorted out soon.
Try covering your blend areas with an open piece of paper (not sealed with tape) to create a taper from overspray. Remove the paper before you put on the blender 👍 great video
Great tip, thanks for sharing!
from a 50 yr professional that is the way it's done
I love your energy and how detailed your video is.
Thank you so much!
You are a hard and diligent worker!!!!! You will be a success with paint or with anything else you try! Good job. Great attitude!
Thank you so much!
To get rid of the orange peel without having to wet sand it afterwards : You just either add more thinner or spray thinner only on the clear and it smoothens it down.
Cool. Can you give more details?
@@brianflaherty7785 That is the trick. When you've clearcoated and it does look orange peel, you add a faire amount of thinner in your gun and spray it all over, or just thinner. Don't overspray but put slightly more than a mist. To get the hang of it, try it beforhand. Hope this helps
No. No. And no. Painter and coatings specialists of 30 years here. Spraying thinner onto an already drying product will look great for a shot time in comparison to what doing it correctly will look like. When one introduces solvents to fix a foreseeable issue they are merely degrading the properties of the material. This will lead to a shorter life of product and cause checking, or delaminating. The cohesion will be lost some, and the clear will lose some of its UV protection. The correct method is to use the retardant that is available for the product line. Another way to solve this problem is to make sure the material is atomizing correctly. The spray gun/cup gun isn’t the only quality control to check. The regulated pressure has to match specifications and the filter from the compressor needs cleaned, or purged if the guy even has one attached. To me it looked like he was moving a little slow with it and just needed to pick up the pace a bit, or turn his air down.
Yes because it was hot , and the paint gun set seems to airy ...
It's always a good idea to have plastic hanging all around the walls and screen the area with the garage doors open wide that way you really can't get very many contaminants into the garage, and a lot of the contaminants will stick to the plastic. Also on a runs you might want to follow it, just slowly keep following it down until you get to the bottom and it will disappear so that you don't have to do any wet sanding on the runs.
A trick I used while painting small and fiddly body panels on motorcycles! Good tip!
Follow it? Just blow on it to spread it out
Going to attempt to repaint the hood of my "salsa red pearl" Sienna, and this is just the kind info I was looking for, even down to the paint color. (The hood looks so bad, I figured I didnt have much to lose by trying, having never done any car paint before.) You made this look doable for a complete noob, no special equipment required. Thank you.
thank you for showing the whole process and taking your time with explaining
Those rattle cans got too cold or something. Nice video, thanks for the insight! I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra with the same peeling clearcoat problem, typical for early Toyotas.
Good stuff. I have some clear coat that keeps peeling on sections of my 4Runner, this helps give me some ideas as I don’t want to sand and completely repaint vs salvaging and re-clear coating. There is just no easy solution. Appreciate you documenting your work. BTW, I love that Land Cruiser!
Yeah, your best bet is to catch it early before it gets as bad as it was on this Legend.
I have always wanted one of the older Toyota Land Cruisers. The ones that are kind of like a Jeep but with more Windows in the back with the 2 Side Seats. I had a Friend that had one, and it would go anywhere.👍
Thanks m8👍 Looking for some tips since someone keyed tons of cars in my neighbourhood including mine.. Gonna keep sanding some more before filling /priming 👍 Your videos are very helpfull.
Great job has been done by you my friend.
Thank you!
I don’t even need to paint my damn car but I watched this entire thing
Don't start painting in the middle of the hood. Start at the edge and work to the middle, then on the second half, start in the middle and work your way to the edge. Looks like you need a bigger nozzle for clear on your spray gun.
Right. Always keep the line wet.
Thanks for the advice 👍👍
I used to love that model legend back in the day. It’s nice to see it again! 👍🏽
This was my first one and I was surprised how solid & well built it was.
@@6thGearGarage They don’t make them like that anymore. 🥴🤷🏽♂️
What a smart guy! Good on you for figuring this out. Great video!
Looks pretty good. If you make your spray pattern smaller with that gun and move in closer your finish will have less orange peel. And your first coat more glossy and let it dry more so your next one's will stick to it. Hopefully ths will inspire you to get a better finish so you don't have to work so hard and have to buff as much
Thanks for the advice!
good advise
Dude, this is the best DIY video I have ever seen. You had me cracking up at times. Expecily the helper that works for 15 animal crackers an hour😂. 👍
Thanks a lot!!
I absolutely love those rims, they have that style.
i watched this like multiple times already!.. it guided me on my project man. thank you!
If you're just removing clear coat; I recommend 3M maroon or grey Scoth-brite scuff pads
When laying your clear, get closer to the panel and increase your overlap. Also, use a slow activator to give the clear more time to lay and flow out.
Will do, thanks for the advice!
Exactly, this is the reason for the orange peel. Don't use slow activator on the wet coat though.
It looked like a really fast "Production" clear, used in shops so you can cut and buff about an hour after spraying.
Use the slowest hardener that your skill level and temp will allow. To reduce the orange peel you have you need to change your spraying style. Will reduce the peel if u get closer to the panel and greatly increase your speed. 75% overlap while being 6ish inches away and moving quickly will give a very smooth and full finish. Much less product waste.
perfect tip
love the background music. so refreshing to hear classical than the techno everyone runs these days.
Yes! Or the dubstep in every video from 2008-2012. Thanks for watching!
This is so satisfying to watch. I love seeing a restoration. ❤
This guy is like the chrisfix for paint restoration, very informative and helpful 👌🏼
Wow, thanks!
LOL Really? SMH
Just what I had in mind!
Looks great! Thanks
Very interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing your experience in car painting.
I never watch long videos, this one I enjoyed every last minute and learned so much. Got yourself another sub brother! 🏴
Thanks!
I don't think orange peel is that big of a deal, better than developing rust over time. You did a fantastic job, I'm hoping to redo my Camry this summer. I don't have a garage so I'll probably just use an easy up and take my chances at it not being perfect.
I don't have a garage either. Did you finish your project outdoor? How did it go?
@@antonp.372 funny you ask, I actually have a recent video on my channel where I painted my own motorcycle gas tank under my carport.
For the blending areas to go better search "back taping" or "Back masking". Your skill is certainly above average, but this will really improve your game. When you wet sand use your dominant hand, and with your other hold either a water bottle with a tiny hole and allow that to drip over your sanding area, OR you can hold a micro fiber shop towel loaded with water, and use a bucket at your feet to recharge it, and squeeze and drip water where you want it.
Thanks for the advice!
@@6thGearGarage You are welcome. The last bit I did not see is to wet the floor before you spray. This traps dust and crud from lifting. Especially helpful lower on the doors.
good advice for wet sanding I've been doing autobody since 1969 and still doing it in my own shop; excellent advice. that's a lot of sanding and compounding but for an amateur not half bad using rattle can color and clearing in a less than ideal conditions. As mentioned in another comment keep you gun closer to the panel and paint the entire roof first before painting the lower body makes for less overspray on the entire car.
About to watch but I can already tell I love those wheels! Suit the car perfectly...
Okay, first rattle can paint job I've seen some one do, that's awesome 👍
Thanks! Even though it could have gone better, I was happy with the way it turned out. I painted an entire Honda Civic with rustoleum spray cans maybe 15 years ago and it actually came out great as well. I think this is the only video I have of the car and it's pretty dusty: ua-cam.com/video/20USP8FEigU/v-deo.html
Perfect timing, planning to respray my G1 Legend too!
Thats all well an good but wat about moister under the primer ?? I would have taking that back to bare metal an do the job right..
I don't think going to bare metal is needed, there was no rust.
I really enjoyed the choice of music and presentation of this video! Thx for the info!
Very helpful video and yes, leaving-in the bloopers helps. I thought I was the only one with clogged spray-tips! I hate when that happens! Also, I'm jealous of your big garage. I have no space in my garage. I used to have a 3-car garage but not anymore. Thanks for the video!
Try working out of a car port. You can't leave tools out over night because it's an open invitation to thieves, so at the end of the day you have to put everything away. With a garage you just close the door and call it a day.
I used to have a 3 Car Garage also. Now the Ex has a 3 Car Garage and I don’t have anything but a Harbor Freight 10’x17’ Garage……😡
Hey another little trick that works great is when you have spots down to bare metal make a small paint shield to only paint where bare metal is it helps build paint thicker to match existing paint also to when masking long bare metal sections roll your tape like a straw makes paint edge softer so you don't have a hard edge to remove
What the hell is a paint shield?
Fantastic job. Btw every body shop I’ve worked in would cut and buff each vehicle after spraying. This removed the imperfections in the clear. Even in a down draft booth something always falls on the clear.
If they were cutting and buffing every vehicle, they were spending a lot of $ on that unnecessarily and should be working to correct that. A good body shop manager would understand that and take action. A combination of a good painter, good products, good spray equipment, and good paint booth that is being maintained properly, should result in paint jobs that need no more work. I've been around the industry for a long time. Plenty of shops cut and buff rarely because the quality of the work out of the booth is very high. I remember talking to a painter about the SW HPC15 clear coat. He said he loves using it because he never has to cut or buff it. It looks perfect every time.
on a professional level that is very true I HATE when my painters have to clean up their work with a LOT A BUFFING. That being said a quick cleanup is very appropriate I seen the best spry booths deliver less than perfect results. My 30-year-old heated Seni-down booth delivers good results if the painter is conscience and knows his craft. Its ALL about the preparation. No matter how super great your spray booth is. if the prep is terrible results will be less than desirable. We are commenting on a nonprofessional in his home garage, not at our professional repair shops He is doing a fairly good job for somebody that doesn't do this as a living. For DIY folks that not too bad for what he wants to accomplish which is a finish that's OK for that year of car. It's better than is started out as. P.S. many of my family members are professional carpenters and cabinet makers so when I do some carpenter repairs, they say "not too bad for an amateur". that's the best a non-professional can expect form folks who been doing a trade for a lifetime.
I think this is quite a commendable job for what you did it with dude well done don’t knock yourself to hard .nice one 👍
Thanks 👍
The great thing about clear coat is you can fix your mistakes much like back in the day when I used to paint with lacquer. Just went sand and buff and the imperfections are gone.
boy o' boy another lacquer painter. those were the days when you could paint out in the open shop without too much worrying about dirt and clear coating. A little color coat sanding if needed and that compounding. I like the new technology better. Who wants to use a Sioux Brand buffer to compound paint (P.S. they felt like they weighted a ton).
Thanks 6th Gear, you're awesome for putting the good the bad and the ugly on here - definitely a big help for us DYI'ers trying to do the same!
+1 for bloopers. that's the real crap we all face every time we go to accomplish something.
I always leave them in because so many videos make projects look too easy. Gotta keep it real!
Nice wheels. Give that dude a raise. Thanks for the video!
I understand your desire for wanting to take the tape off before the paint dries but you're taking a big chance on dropping additional dirt into the clear and having it stick. More dirt is more work. I know you know that. Good video though. I like your tip about the tiger striping.
I find there's a narrow window in which I try to remove the tape where the paint isn't 100% dry but not too tacky to allow anything to stick.
Moral of the story is don't buy paint from ebay. I immediately knew the problem when you said it had paint on nozzle. People test color and return paint. So many unethical people on eBay and else where.
You gotta Love this Man’s Do It Yourself Attitude.
Very nice. Good job.
Thank you very much!
Most of your orange peel is likely due to having a too high distance while spraying in all layers. Your color coat was already very rough and you might have benefited from having your color harden out, sand it with 800 and put a wet coat of color on top of that. With a metallic, wet sanding color is usually a no-no, so you would have to put on quite a bit of paint on top of where you sanded. No sense in keeping on painting without correction once you see your surface is so incredibly rough.
For the clear with the spray gun, you can reduce your pressure just a bit so you can slow down the gun a bit and spray closer, so putting down a nice wet coat without runs is easier to do. Watch "Paint Society" for some great tips on how to prevent this bad of an orange peel with distance, pressure and fan settings on your gun.
Quick tip, dont forget to change the timing chain on it, my sister had an acura legend, and it got totalled after the timing chain flew apart, the valves hit the pistons, and that was the end of that car
Wow nice work. Great information to do the complete job.
Thank you
Normally I don't watch these sort of clips all the way but this clip I'm almost 30 minutes into it and it is still totally interesting I will continue watching the rest later. CrisFix has competition
That first spray can that was defected I would call Amazon and tell them your sending it back and expect a full refund of the purchase price - the S&H
@@RescueResponceTeam It was from ebay but I had to use it because I was in a pinch, so I don't think I could return it empty.
Chris Fix his Soapy water 🤣🤣
Always have some soapy wooder on hand 😂
What pressure where you spraying at? To me it look like you gun was surging an thats got to do with pressure your compressor is the wrong size its working to hard .an sorry mate just trying to help dont do a tack coat an leave it go straigjt back over it it look heaps dry.
I don't recall the pressure, but compressor had no prob keeping up
love your vibe/energy, keep it up!
Thank you.
I like to know if I can do theat project if I don't have a garage.
Where to get the paint for the 2002 Toyota Camry,
Do you have a video regarding restoring the roof black moldings?
Keep up with the grate job
You can so it without a garage if the weather is good, but you'll be more likely to get dust or bugs in the finish if painting outdoors. Here is the video of the roof moldings ua-cam.com/video/Q0EXe3_InBQ/v-deo.html
This guys sounds like Chris Fixx brother.
Haha thanks! It's an honor to be mentioned in the same sentence as the G.O.A.T.
Mate nothing to do with a booth if its hot use a medium or slow thiner an also tack coat between colour coates
booth would be nice to keep out the dust. neighbor started mowing grass while i was in the middle of painting and stirred up a lot of debris :(
Mate i have been a proffesional painter for 20 years i know what im talking about .1u dont realise how much shit comes off your clothes as lint an other crap .the commpressor i seen in the back ground looks like its a 8 / 10 cfm way to small i could here it cutting in an out .3 just cause u cant see rust dosent mean it is not there base coat is pories witch means it will absorb any moister .lol
@@Roger-jolley Wasn't doubting you, you're right it's 9.8 cfm. I was once told if only painting sections and not a whole car then it was enough... is that true?
@@6thGearGarage mate that why your front an rear bars look good cause its a small area .u need at least 16 cfm to produce a nice result im in australia they cost about a $1000 dollars over here to purchase
I really enjoyed this Chris Fix video! Thank you!
getting ready to try and repaint my 2007 Volvo S60R, thanks for the great video!
Dude, don’t ruin your clay bar on areas you are going to paint. Just use soft scrub or bar keeper helper cleaner on those areas with loose paint. It will lift up a lot of rotten clear coat and also lift up most oxidation and dirt from the exposed paint and make it look a lot better. Another tip, use an old credit card as a scraper to remove the white rotten clearcoat bubbly areas. Use warm soapy water with the credit card scrapper. The plastic card won’t scratch the paint. Works great!
Great tip, thanks!
At $30/can, those would have been sent back
You can't send them back fool and they're actually $40 a can
Great movie! Finally, someone showed that not everything turns out perfectly.
Those Acura Legends are very reliable cars. Take care of them and they take care of you. Great video!
Thanks! I ended up trading it but it really was such a solid car.
If I spent that much money on some spray paint, I would be pissed
Yeah, next time I'm just going to buy a quart and spray it with the gun. No more spray cans.
@@6thGearGarage yea i bought my first spray gun yesterday, I made the switch. now I'm going have to learn to mix correctly