Insulating a Van? These 3 Steps Are Crucial...
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- Van insulation 101
What do I need to do to insulate a van?
Why do I use the particular materials to insulate a van?
Brendan from Car Builders walks through the most effective way to insulate a van when doing a van conversion.
Products used in this video:
Stage 1- Sound deadener- www.carbuilders.com.au/soundd...
Stage 2- Van Liner- www.carbuilders.com.au/van-liner
Stage 3 - Van Seal- www.carbuilders.com.au/van-seal
Check out our video where we test various insulation materials.
Whoever edited this is a legend.
I have used car builders products on my other vehicles. Products have been easy to work with, fantastic quality. I now have a van and I have been looking for an easy way to insulate, looks like I'm going to use car builders again :)
Very quick and informative. Thumbs up
Glad it was helpful!
Finally someone with common sense, talking about NOT overdoing the insulation, as so many others on u-be
This is excellent. Clear as a bell.
VERY good video. Great explanations and no p1ssing about. Well done Brendan.
Quick and to the point fantastic 🙂
Thanks Paul.
Great video, nice and concise, i will be using a very similar method with my van, cheers
great video guys very informative 👍
Well done on the sound mat Many think its a insulator of heat And ya in a very small R Value it is ...I done rubber spray on my 3/4 inch And a 14 R value with proper 2 part closed cell pro spray foam The rubber for transfer heat And cold off bare metal The foam as a thermal break And in Canadian sub zero temps that 1/2 inch in 2.5 inches is the sweet spot of each side of Heat vs Cold .....in 1 year i have made my money back in fuel cost to stay warm And cool as to the foam board And need for more heat/cooling for longer periods ..
Great info!
I really like the simplicity of this approach. Do you know or have a guess at what the “R” value is of insulating with this approach? Thx!
3 years living in my van I ain’t insulted mine . The insulation ain’t enough to to keep you warm ! I just leave my eberspacher heater on most of the time well in the winter easy and cheap 😂
Great video, Can I do the same on fixed windows or I must replace the glass with some sort of metalic sheet? How would you insulate the floor?
Hi I am about to start my 2021 VW Crafter and want to use your products . I will chase you guys up.
awesome, is the same 3 step process done to the floor of the van aswell??? thanks.
This insulation method makes the most sense to me. I personally feel that the 3rd stage could be done by attaching reflectix or similar to the inside of whatever wall you choose and then mounting the wall panels. Great video! 😊
Recommendations on insulating a fiberglass conversion top van ?
I came across your channel and was wondering if you ever thought of using denim insulation in the car?
Very informative video. I have a question. How many rolls of each of the material would you need to complete a medium height van? Thanks
Proper XPS or other insulation would provide better insulation and R values
Hi mate, did you cover up the drainage holes in the back right corners of the floor of the van or leave them open to drain any moisture out? I don't know if it will cool the van down too much leaving them open or if they need to stay open to let water out
This is great, but how do I get this material in the US?
very neat and tidy. so you stick the themal stage 2 on straight on top of the deadener? no gap?
That's right. The Van Liner goes straight over the sound deadener. If you are then putting in walls, this gives you the opportunity to create an air gap. Line with Van Seal to create further insulation 👍
so is there a gap between layer 1 and 2m
Is the stage 2 material or something comparable available in the US?
Does this prevent smell also?
Great concise video! Can I ask how you recommend creating the air gap between layer 2 and 3? Are we banking on the shape of the van wall and the rigidity of layer 3 resulting in a gap, or something more deliberate? Thanks!
Hi Ciaran. Yes, this will be governed by the van construction but most vans will have an inner skeleton structure which creates this air-gap cavity.
Why do you need the air gap?
@@RobKoierair gaps are how insulation works. Basically.
@@RobKoierdo insulation like XPS foam, better than just an air gab
@@RobKoierthink of it as layering clothing
So not using earthwool at all? What if the condensation dont get absorb by anything and wont evaporate if the outside temp is not hot enough?
Hello guys im very interested in your product!!!
The stage 3 is reflective thermal insulation? How i can buy it in Europe?
Does the van lining need to cover every cm of the van’s metal sheeting? Or are tiny gaps ok?
I'm upfitting a cargo van for perishable product transport and sound isn't much of a worry. Does the sound deadening help at all in the overall heat reduction, or is that a piece I can skip?
What about mold and condensation does this stop that
People do sound killer under Armaflex too. Totally not necessary.
What's the R value in that thin isolation?
So you're only using reflective material for insulation? What is the R-value that you get from that?
Three layers of thin material when combined looks like maybe 10 mm. No mention of R value for these three thin layers. I found myself waiting for the application of XPS foam board or closed cell spray foam and it did not come. This looks like a skimpy solution for the client but a great deal for these folks selling their products. Do your research people. Check out Chuck Cassady (UA-camr) who has been building insulated school bus conversions in Colorado for 18 years. He knows what he’s talking about.
Hello, what is the product name you have in the last layer?
Layers keep you worm !!
How much would it cost to be a decent size caravan?
so you've opted to not use any sort of wool or plastic fiber insulation, could you comment? thanks
Hi Guys. Love your products. Please make a video about van seal installation. You don't cover it in any detail in any videos or on your website. Thank you.
Is any insulation needed between 2nd and 3rd layers ? Or will that be overkill ?
Hi Gavin. Air acts as a very effective insulator. You could put insulation batts in between the Van Liner and Van Seal for a minimal improvement (2 degrees). Batts with Van Seal (but without Van Liner) is about 3 degrees less effective than Van Liner and Van Seal. We have a video of these tests coming out shortly 👍
Is there any issues with moisture and condensation between the layers? If so, how can that be taken care of? The materials you are using dont look like they would mold, but if there is condensation or moisture could they eventually rust out the inside of the van, especially if there is no place for the moisture to escape or evaporate? ( or would a dry air heater take care of all that?) Thanks!
hello, can you show us internal temp vs external temp :D because flir cameras ....is not helping too much
Hi K5UAL. Sorry, we will have a video out shortly which will do just that.
Why would you use the sound deadner if you are sticking armaflex of k-flex directly to the walls and roof anyway ? Waste of money and adds unnecessay weight as panels were you stick the insulation to won't resonate either.
Different products doing different things. As for added weight, when you’ve filled the grey and fresh water tanks… and fuel, then come and talk about extra weight in the foam panels. False economy. Don’t forget that old saying, The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price has long gone.
@@glenncallow1454 then explain please...flat sheet metal resonates, once bent like the wheel arches resonance is a lot less. And even then we build casings/cupboards around the arches, which can easily be covered with armaflex on the inside. I understand the car industry likes to sell stuff ofcourse.
Try one backdoor without sound deadner and one with just armaflex, a hint the insulation covered door will sound flat, no resonance.
This guy tried it....ua-cam.com/video/24vC5J3bjkg/v-deo.html
The little resonance that maybe lingers will be absorded/dispersed by the interior of the van cupboards, bed, etc...
On a lightweight build every weight saving adds up, no water tanks here.... My observations have nothing to do with poor quality just experimenting and eliminating the superfluous and unnecessary expenses.
@@glenncallow1454
Well spoken Sir!
damn you wont have much of the car left after all them layers lol
kidding ofc, good video 👍
lol just put actual insulation in the gap between the wall and wood million times better r value and way way less cost
Low cost low results. What u Gona do with the mold and moisture acumulation?
Use That Wool Stuff That's Anti Moisture & Anti Mold
@@melaninduh7962 how can a wool be antimoisture :)))?
@@bogdancuciuch7063 because it is...if you dont know , dont answer... and you obviously dont know.
Read about sheepswool, Rockwool.....then you learn.
Because its... wool.
Havelock wool doesn't absorb moisture. If that doesn't satiate, then you use a secondary vapor barrier.
#vanlife
This is conflating convection + conduction with radiation and so much more. The radiant heat is reflected by the foil fine, but with the "heated chamber", (your words), hot air between the 2nd layer of insulation and 3rd, it's now a case of how do we deal with that. This system doesn't even understand what its about so there's overkill, waste and way more cost than a solution that based on logic and minimal cost. Anyway, you sold my missus on it because she's off to blow the bank on your retail priced repackaged chinese gear yay 3:57
I don’t think this is the best insulation for a van, having a 1 inch air gap is not better than having a xps or any other insulation in that gap. You would more than double the R value just by adding insulation in the gabs.
Nah mate, I'm gonna go with aircrete....