VAN INSULATION PREPARATION | TRC Van Conversion 12.0
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- A look at the basic principles of insulation and then getting some solid battens ready for the fit out.
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Lots of theory to get through in this one as thought it was important to go through the details but don't worry, back to more action packed episodes soon! :-)
What type of insulation are you using in the wall? Is that sheep's wool?
Restoration Couple "The water can't get through it and condense on the metal"
*This is false. Air has water in it. There is air on both sides of the vapor barrier, it's not a vacuum. Warm air holds more water than cold air. As air cools it cannot hold as much water, thus wet happens.*
*It's all about "dew point".*
*For example: When the outside temperature is 83F and relative humidity IN THE VAN is 80% then the dew point is 77F.*
*Therefore, for that "dew point", if air behind the vapor barrier and insulation cools to 77F or below, then condensation will occur.*
*Weather reports list dew point. Many clocks have relative humidity as a feature. Condensation is best avoided by avoiding the possibility of dew point air temps on the inner skin of the van.*
@@darrencorpe I was looking for the same answer and I found it in other videos. It Is "Diall" recycled plastic wool. It is also under other brands "B&Q", "SupaSoft", "EcoLoft". All of this can be found by key words "Non-Itch insulation wool"
@@dmay3391 the water cant get through it and condense on the metal. How does water or air pass through the impermeable membrane like aluminium foil? It doesnt. Therefore and moisture iside the van will not reach the outer metal body work. Pf course there is a small amount od moisture in beetween the van wall and the foil, but minimal. This method prevents moisture from people living in a van cooking and breathing and wet equipment from getting in to the insulation and on the van wall.
Great content. Edit it down to a video that people want to watch. Say what you mean, me@n what you say
The quality, care and detail of your work is obviously evident in your projects. And, these videos are just additional examples of work done well.
Loving the great care and precision you are employing to build out a van for yourself, your wife and your sweet daughters! I'm hoping to turn a small Transit Connect into a living space for myself and my cat. But, at 70 years of age, I'll probably have to find a company, or several van build-out specialists to convert my off grid van for me; which could prove pricey on a small Social Security income. Can't wait to see your family's adventures in your finished van!
Great video - the theory is important, it's great to see the reasoning behind why you're tackling a project in a certain way. Thanks for the videos - keep up the good work!
REVERS cam priority especially kids dads driving he is the best . Hart attack .
One of only two van insulations that I've seen that seems to be done right. Thank you.
Great video! Some key points were highlighted that I hadn't heard anyone else discuss. Thank you!
thank you, thank you for welcoming me back sir.
I have never been here.
Now you have, congratulations 🍾🏆📣
Thank you for the great explanation about why a vapor barrier is needed!
These videos are a god send. I'm planning out a Luton van conversion at the moment that I want to allow me to see Sweden/Finland in the winter, and I'm having to put a lot of thought into whether it's possible and how.
Really appreciating your channel - thank you :-) Some of the music in this vid seems to block out some of what you're saying though which is a shame. Thanks again
As you mention, rivnuts would be another option for mounting those battens and I'm sure you'll find they are available from the dealer ready to fit into all of those preformed hexagonal holes.
No criticism for the way you have fixed them though, they look very sturdy and erring almost on overkill, but that's exactly how I like to make stuff.
Looking forward to the next episode 👍
Did think that there may be something for those holes, oh well always a nice feeling to use up the hardware you have cluttering up the garage!
I want to thank you so much for all your efforts in making these videos. Your van series has finally inspired me enough to take on my own van conversion which until now I have been to worried, with the lack of knowledge and confidence, to tackle.
I too have 2 small children a similar age to you. I bought a 2011 Sprinter a few weeks ago, but religiously watched your series before making the plunge and now that I have the van and have started the build have found myself traipsing back through your serious to revise some of the useful tips you've suggested.
I bought the same Transit Custom rear seats as you, got the twin seat with both iso fix for the kids seats, i fit them next week and cant decide whether i should fit the single 3rd. let me know if you think its still worth doing if you read this? i'm going so a slightly different sleeping arrangement for the kids, i plan to have 2 detachable table/bed that will fit to the wall below the drivers rear window but lays over the rear seats, this will hopefully work and double up as a table for the swivel front seats during the day and a bed at night.
Anyway, wasn't meant to get into my build lol, just wanted to send you a huge thank you for your series. I might even attempt my own basic youtube series of my own build, ha. If you are ever on the south coast, I'm in Poole and i'm sure we'd have plenty in common and the kids would get on great, get in touch if you want to get some DIY vanlifers together! Thanks again
Thanks for explaining. I have read so much on the forums about the ways to and not to do stuff. This was explained nicely that I now know what I am going do do when I get my van. So thank you
Thanks again for another great video. You're the sole reason why I chose to buy me a van and get a van/office life going! The only concern I have is that I really don't have a DIY strand of DNA in me lol
Great engineering/scientific explanation is excellent. I've shown my friend doing a conversion this video and she is using your methods so thanks very much.
Another great video. Thanks for the effort you put into making these, and explaining the reasons you do things the way you do.
You are a van Jedi! I love how you address want you see in other videos and you approach. This is so helpful. Keep us all going this is so incredibly valuable!
The background music is too loud and prevents hearing the naration
trust me, for building, don't add music, you're working with materials, and tools, not trying to make an infomercial..people want to hear the drills the clattering the cutting, awesome video though =D thanks better then what i would and could ever do, to sit here posting comments has absolutely no bearing on your abilities and information. =D
Music shit video good 👍
Can't wait till the next video! Really helpful for my van
Lizard skin is the way I have decided to go with plus thinsolate. Cover hot and cold climates and seals the metal skin.
I want an update on yr method pls.
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Man moisture barriers are tough. It's very hard to seal up everything perfectly, air molecules are pretty small, and vans have lots of gaps and holes. And then as you say, if it gets through and condenses, it's trapped. I guess until it evaporates back into the air from the heat of the van during the day.
So I was thinking, yeah I'll just let it breath, by using breathable insulation and not having a moisture barrier. Then one night while I was working on the van without any windows open, in just half an hour the roof was saturated with water. Just the amount made me realise, I have to get that moist air out of the van before it hits the walls. I need a vapour barrier.
But I'm going to struggle to seal up the van completely, as I wanted to use a number of the Transit wall cavities to extend the storage space. And all my cabling goes through the walls/ceiling ribs. So it would be easy to create the situation of moist air getting through, but not letting water out. It's impossible to seal inside all the ribs and cavities.
So yeah...
I think having a way to check what's happening is critical. Excellent idea. I've never seen a single video of someone checking the moisture in the van after it's built.
Ventilation is your answer. You need air to circulate to dry the inside.
Excellent video.........just in the process of collecting everything together to do a Ducato LWB........will be checking out other videos :-)
I've just bought my first house and I've been watching your videos for a couple of months. I am picking up so many useful things and I've learned so much! Trying to make some decisions now at this early stage and I don't want to mess anything up as the surveyor identified some areas that need to be looked at (missing/spalled brickwork on chimney area in loft, a few areas of damp wall downstairs), I wish I had a mate like yourself who could pop over and offer some advice haha keep up the great work. PS have you seen "escape to the chateau" on channel 4? It's the dude from scrapheap challenge and his designer wife sorting out a massive property and ground, think you'd enjoy!
I don't know if anyone said but put nuts on the bolts before you cut them then round the end after or you won't get your bolt back on unless your a wizard with metal and also galvanised spray will stop any corrosion
SAY WAIT!:
A super cheap great overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what.
Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa.
Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them.
Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets.
Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment with more plastic?!
Take care of yourself
Great video as usual, but the vocals are only on the left channel! The music is fine, left and right. Not sure if anyone else has said. . .
Yeah someone mentioned it, must have panned it by accident or my mic may be on the way out, it has had a tough life!
Hej man, great video, I really appreciate you taking your time to show us this! I just have one small question, what exactly is it that you are using as the soft recycled insulation? What is it called and what is it made of? :) Take care
Surprised you didn’t use Rivnuts, much simpler / quicker and retains sheer strength of a bolt... very smart build tho...
Tip for you. If you want to drill an existing hole with a hole saw/forstner bit. Take a scrap piece of wood drill all the way through and then clamp it to the piece with the existing hole as a template, will stop the drill jumping around and give you a nice clean hole
I was being too lazy I know. Actually ended up just using an augur bit on those first ones! :-)
The Restoration Couple ahh we are all guilty of that!. Sure the holes are out of sight so makes no difference!
Best explanation I have found so far. Brilliant thanks.
Glad it helped.
If you have noticed the rigid insulation is very slippery on the foil and most people tape over the joints from experience I can guarantee the tape will lift and come off. I always wipe where I am tapping with meths or brake cleaner to remove the coating you probably felt this on your hands after dealing with the stuff. Maybe do a test and see tape two bits together and hang on a wall or ceiling and watch.
Hope this helps well done for the videos.
Yeah I have noticed that on other projects. Some tapes are also better than others. We foil taped our whole loft and were able to monitor that for a few months before boarding over and all ok so confident enough with this.
Excellent video! You have answered a lot of questions I had.
Moisture in the air will condense on any surface where the temperature difference is sufficient.
Which means there will be condensation between the metal and vapor barrier?
@@svorskemattias Good point you have to install vapour barrier when its bone dry I suppose. Also I think using the conduit that you feed the electric cables through as a way to vent any wet air between the vapour barrier and metal is possibly a good idea.
@@chatteyj i don't think it matters actually. Try tightly closing a plastic bottle in "dry" air, and then expose it to daily temperature changes for a few months. I dare to say there will be condensation on the inner walls after that. I'm not sure, but I'm not gonna risk it in my van. :)
I'm looking to convert a van into a camper. I was looking at the for Transit 4x4 AWD. Can wait to get started. And get out of the corrupt UK.
Very knowledgeable and informative van video series. Learned much from your vids.
I lived in a caravan for two years. Every flat surface would suffer condensation. Walls, inside cupboards, under seats. Only way to stop is to have every surface covered in a soft fabric insulation. I covered the walls in carpet tiles. I see a lot of these vans with wood walls, that is the last thing i would use. As a surface finish i would use the wall carpet fabric. Also why not use sticky backed closed cell foam as used for car sound insulation.Heat and sound is only vibrating air molecules and that is what you are trying to stop. I have used on my small van. This silver stuff looks good, but only reflects radiate heat, of which ain't much inside a van.
@Yul Strokheet Al-Wauch Because it insulate the cold surface on which condensation forms. Reason why lining carpet is popular in motor home vans. Submarines at one time were lined with cork.
@@flybobbie1449 would u recommend to put cork for the vans put straight on metal
@@robsonm9449 Might work. I just found cork expensive and ugly if leave it bare.
Not a bad video. Sounds logical, but I would like to see some actual studies. Personally I'm wondering if it is better to leave an air gap and unplug the holes at the bottom and just let the cavity breath. I would make the walls with prefabricated panels incorporating insulation, that could be removed if needed.
What about a vent on the outside???
The sound quality is messed up for headphone users
Amazing videos, thanks so much. You've inspired us to 'Do it ourselves'.
Please can you tell us what type of 12mm ply you used for the wall battens?
We've cut ours from hardwood 12mm ply but worried that we should be using structural ply.
Your opinion please. Modern vehicles have all metal coated with multiple products to prevent rust. Assuming that any penetration of that coating is repaired by adding back a sufficient coat of paint, why are these professional coatings of metal protection not sufficient to prevent condensation from causing rust? I live just outside of Detroit MI, USA, and I can say that the amount of rusting you saw in cars and trucks a few decades ago was significant and today it is significantly reduced. If you take good care of your vehicles paint most rusting has been effectively eliminated. Thoughts? PS, thanks for the videos.
The condensation is less about rust and more about what it causes, mould, degrading of insulation, damp smells, etc.
Thanks for the info grelt insight, greetings from Denmark
Very good information, what is that shiny thin barrier shield material that is stuck on the wall and why did you not cut to to be flush with the ribs? Thanks for your help!
Great video. Why did you not cover everywhere with the vapour barrier?
double sided bubble wrap will give you a 10 degree difference If it's used properly and not touching the outside of the van. 10 degrees is a massive difference.
Are you concerned or have you had trouble with moisture in the cab? Lots of work to make the cargo area vapor tight but isn't the cab open to moisture?
Hi
Thanks for all of the really helpful videos.
Can you please recommend a supplier for the carpet lining?
Do I need 4 way or 2 way stretch?
And lastly, which is the best thickness to use.
Many thanks in advance.
Regards and thanks again.
Andrew
Aluminium foil will impact radio waves! Can also disturbe cable signals. Inside a van wall it has zero insulation. It actually works well as a cold and heat conducter.
But as said in this video, it works well as a vapour barrier.
Avoid, imho, aluminium other than in window covers (to reflect direct sunlight).
Use plain vapour barrier plastic for the job. Seal it with none metalic tape.
One can use normal, clear, bubblerap as insulation but it's R-value might be low.
I would prefere to use sound dampening without alu foil. If you have a problem with weak spots in the insulation, a foil behind it might worsen the problem by being such good thermal distributor.
Reflectix in vanbuild is such amazing global groupthink. Perhaps it started with the space programs? Looks advanced and scientific. If NASA is using it, it must be good...
Use reflectix to clad the inside of your shoplifting bag! ;-)
PS. Pardon me spelling.
Hi , brilliant videos , what size tapping screws are you using please?
Always very well thought through. Im learning a lot. thanks
Congratulation for your work. which will be the height between the beds (and between the top bad and the sealing)?
Personally I can't stand spray foam. Like you say it's not very green, it's difficult to get rid of if you want to change something, but mainly theres the risk of fumes if it fails to cure. And that might not be down to how you use it, you might get a bottle from a bad batch.
Bit paranoid I know but stranger things have happened! :)
Any rigid insulation off gases, whether it's sprayed on the van surface, or if it was panelised in a plant. The insulation boards are stacked up within 24 hours of casting, but then cannot off gas until unpacked. You get off gasing either way regardless. Custom sprayed on foam is no more/ less "green" than any other foam insulation, it's just that it's initial gasing has happened elsewhere...
I used spray insulation with closed cell structure, and yes it had an odor for a few days, but once I paneled the walls and stained/varathaned it (more off gasing) it smelled great, and no more harmful than a daily commute to work.
Good luck with your project! Cheers.
Love the videos thankyou. Inspiring me to do my own van.
seems a proper building
Hi! Thanks so much for the video! Very informative! I was wondering though... If one paints the internal part of the metal exterior wall with some kind of rubber paint that is waterproof, wouldn't it help to prevent condensation as water droplets couldn't be form on that part of the wall? If it is so, than would be a good thing to also paint the external part of the interior (wood) wall so between the walls would be isolated from water? I don't know if that makes any sense or if I was clear, but I would like to know your thoughts on that! Thank you! Cheers!
Are you just screwing straight through the metal when screwing battens to the side (not the bolts)
Yes.
Definitely owe you a pint or 2 for these vids . . . Re-visiting this one as I need to put side battens in. I have a boxer and was just wondering if you drilled holes into the metal for the M8 bolts to go through or did you just put them through the existing holes in the ribs (although mine are hexagonal - think yours are too). . . Any info on this would be great! Cheers, Matt
Great job & explanations. One thing I don’t understand is bolting a furring strip to the metal bracing because screws don’t have sheer strength. How are you gonna attach the cabinets? With bolts or screw into the furring strip? Why not bolt a type of hanger to the steel bracing to bolt the cabinets to? You could also use some type of “U” hanger like a French cleat on the cabinets for strength and screw the cabinets into the metal bracing. Kitchen wall cabinets are screwed to the studs.
Like I said I’m just asking so I can understand your method. I don’t want this to come off as giving you a hard time.
It is primarily to facilitate where I will screw the internal wall panels to. When it comes to any units that are not secured to the floor then I will probably end up using a few fixings that go right through to the steel rib or possibly a toggle type fixing. French cleats might be used where I plan to have removable units for the occasions we need more space.
The Restoration Couple thanks for a quick and detailed reply.
7:30 an interesting point someone once made is if you go for spray foam and down the line need any welding done, the garage wouldn't wanna touch it...not sure if it's true, or how your style of insulation would be viewd but a point nonetheless for anyone reading
Was the voice supposed to be panned left? Great info! Well explained :)
Oooh, no, must have missed that in edit. Think my old Rode mic is on it's way out, might have recorder to one channel or something.
The Restoration Couple quality of recording sounds great, so if it’s a stereo mic, you could just sum to mono, which is plenty for these kind of videos :).
I been doing some research on wood paneling. You have a video on this or suggestions? I think I want to do planks than one whole thing so if I want to customize something or remove a panel I can just do one plank versus the entire thing
Great job. Like attention to details. However not sure I agree with battens for those upper beds. Looks like they take even more internal space. Would it be better to put some captive nuts (or nutserts, whatever they are called) into the holes on the van frame and bolt directly to them through the wall lining ply?
Even without the beds I would still batten our the whole van to help with the lining and avoid fixings being in contact with both the van metal and internal air.
By the way - do you have an idea of what the finished internal width at bottom and top batten levels is? Sorry if you covered this already in other videos - did not manage to watch all of them yet.
They're 2 types of spray foam insulation. Closed cell (hard foam) and open cell (soft foam). Spray foam is installer sensitive. If done incorrectly it won't work to its potential. Open cell foam (water based) will off-gas within a couple of days. It also deadens sound. Closed cell foam is noisy. Foam would be the only type of insulation that I'd use in a van.
Ventilation is the most important part of controlling humidity in a van. If dry air outside and moist air inside of van you'll have moisture transfer and visa versa. Don't worry about "R" Value. A styrafoam coffee cup only has an "R" Value of .25 and a ceramic coffee cup has the same "R" Value.
Pls do a video
Great vid! Did you ever check the insulated space with a humidity sensor ? My build is very similar but I'm installing a small roof vent just to provide ventilation to the space enclosed by the vapour barrier.
Was about to ask the same question..
@The Restoration Couple , amazing video as usual! Did you have any time to check the humidity since 2017?
I'm a bit late to this comment party, but I was wondering what thickness you used for those battens?
12mm
Air vents are usually the best way to keep anything dry, albeit the van or a metal shed or even your bathroom.
I like your conversion. But what is the name of your insulation, and where did you buy it?
Would you ever use spray foam in the hard-to-reach areas, or maybe even between your subfloor and the wall?
You have put some of that lofting wool insulation into the ribs. Have you managed to get reflected in there somehow??
Question: I’m watching your videos for future reference; I love the extensive explanation and your thought processing out loud, gives a great insight into the decisions that need to be made throughout the built. What I yet have to understand is what I see in many conversions: the stuff on the panels of the panel van. I understand you don’t want moist to condensate against the panels and therefore an airtight layer is required to bridge the temperature difference between outside and within the van. But how do these adhesives help with that? Thanks mate
Not sure if I follow? The silver squares on teh metal are sound deadening only. The most basic way of looking at it is that it doesn't matter what insulation you choose, you must always have that vapour barrier on the habitable side of it. Not sure which adhesives you mean, it is the silver layer or whatever polythene sheet you use which is important.
Cool, that is exactly what I meant! it is sound proofing... Thanks for clearing that up for me so quickly; got confused, thought it was part of the vapor barrier or isolation, which put me on the wrong foot.
The vapor barrier is clear to me, thanks to your video(s). Impressed with your work, and the fact you find time to respond! Thanks again.
Jan Willem v.d. Gronden some do fit a thin foil insulation all over the metal first but I am not sure it is worth it if you do a good enough job with the main installation. 👍
It's worth it, that partial sound deadening could be extended to be the first vapour barrier, the secret is layers, then the foil (2nd barrier), then closed cell foam (or sleeping mats) then Kingspan, followed by soft layer (recycled plastic bottles)to even out the gaps, then final foil layer, then the ply which has been backed by 5mm underfloor insulation (dampens panel resonance). It is a good idea to have plenty of hydroscopic fabrics in the van (like woolen blankets) to absorb then release water vapour as well - of course lots of people also line the van with carpeting which has a similar effect. And like you say it's also a good idea to allow an escape route for any moisture which invariably will find it's way in whatever you do :)
Nick Wood thanks. I tend to get overwhelmed by technique, even though I am quite handy. Do breaking it down in easy process steps really helps! Thanks!
Great videos! Question: How do you work around insulating (and mounting wall) around outputs for rear lights and locks? I am questioning how im supposed to insulate that while at the same time be able to access it for service. Do u stuff those panels at the backdoor with insulation? Do u cover them up with walls after?
I will most likely use polyiso and armaflex.
Great video, what thickness are your battens?
didi you ever check the vapor in the wall? that you are talking about in min 6?
Great question
Sikaflex is definitely the way to go for peace of mind. I built my caravan with it. It will act a a movement absorber that could possibly have loosened the bolts so having sika and bolts( or other fasteners) is a great combo for vehicles.
Hello sir. Perhaps a silly question but I noticed you completed a lot of the ceiling first, was there a reason for this or just preference on the build?
Hi - I wonder if you could possibly let me know where you managed to get the longer pine cladding from to finish your ceiling as I need some for my van - Thanks!
Have you considered leak? Even new vans tend to leak?
Good video !
Your videos were very good, 90% work and 10% talk say with voice over, in this one you talked for 9 minutes and 50 seconds before showing some work being done... I just paused it to write this comment...hopefully you are talked out on this one and the rest of the video will be as they used to be...
It's good to hear the context and reasoning behind the work being done, otherwise it's just voyeurism.
Hi Pascal, this one was already going to be voice heavy, it was more of a rant I guess as there are just so many sped up timelapses of van installs where very little thought/detail has been put in to the insulation. Don't worry back to the action packed vids next week!
Once you’ve built the van it’s a big just b to replace the insulating material. Get it right first time motto
Have you come across cold bridging/thermal bridging in your research adventures? I've seen a few people complain that cold travels from the outside along the screws (wood panelling that's been screwed into the wood brace that's been screwed to the metal ribs) and there's damp rings around every screw on the inside panelling
The majority of issues like that tend to be where paneling is screwed to the ribs direct with self tappers. It may still bridge through but with the rib void filled with insulation first there is actually very little bridging to the outer skin. In our case we our filling our screw holes and then painting the wood so that will further reduce the risk of the screws becoming a dew point. I did touch on this in the roof video I think.
@@TheRestorationCouple 3 years on an still thousands of people finding your van build videos invaluable.
I've read several horror stories of people insulating similar to how you have but found later that water had somehow got into the space between the van wall and vapour barrier (some mention van trim clips, bad seals on wheel arches or body seams). @therestoreationcouple I would love to know what humidity readings you have taken through sending the sensor up the drain holes. I guess taking time to seal and holes where trim clips come through, checking and sealing the wheel arches etc will limit/stop the ingress of unwanted water from the outside.
Hello, how thick is your ceiling wood and is it tongue and groove? Thank you
Would I need to worry about making the van moisture proof if I'm only planning on sleeping in it 9 or 10 nights a year?
why have you only used the moisture stuff in little squares? do you not need them all over or is squares enough?
Well explained .I love your chanel:)
Hi,
What did you use for the wall insulation? Do you have a link to buy?
Hi
I. Have a ford transit work van and i use it the odd time for sleeping at festivals or remote spots for early morning photography. Question. I'm just about to get it kitted out with shelving etc and wonder if theres any benefit what so ever to put some insulation inside the ply on both sides?
Why cant you attach the frames after the ply & through the wall beams of the van with large self taps?
Great vids... just a quicky did you use the 50mm or 100mm insulation for the wall. Many thanks
100mm.
How much did it cost to insulate the van? Should do my A/C first when building then insulation?
Yes insulation theory is like talking politics or religion !
But thanks for sharing this info.
Not sure the science of vapour barriers actually stacks up in a van. Best thing is to use non-absorbent insulation and provide plenty of ventilation and air movement through the van.
Would silver foil like you’d use in the kitchen to cover food work to reflect heat/ act as a moisture barrier?
Yes but would be to easy to tear. Polythene sheet is the cheapest and easiest vapour barrier.
what if you added the silver building foil on top of the foam insulation with the foil. would that ameliorate the potential problems you talked about with not installing that foam insulation properly? also what are your thoughts on plastic vapor barrier?
xingalingaful Plastic on its own is not vapour impermeable.
Yes, two layers is better than one.
Hello, were can I buy the wool you use.? and what is the thickness?
Thanks for post, interesting. Sorry but gotta rant, about this "Öh it's not very green," this is just virtual signaling nonsense. If you're so concerned about the planet don't leave the house, don't buy a van and certainly don't drive about in it. The carbon output difference between you driving about in your van and not using expanding foam must be about, 0 . 00000005% And to be honest, there's loads of information arguing against the so-called global warming. I know it sounds rude, but when you write things down it often does, where as if I spoke to you in person it would not sound as bad. Again, thanks for the info, I'm about to build a campervan and need to choose insulation method.
It's virtue signaling, not virtual signaling. There's other considerations for the environment other than just carbon but since you deny climate change it seems like that wouldn't matter to you.
Sorry but the argument against human induced climate change are from the non scientific world, over 90% of scientists believe this is true!
However to add a point from a climate change graduate, if your holidaying in a van instead of long distance plane based holidays (say Caribbean or Asia or regular trip to Europe) your must likely using less carbon in a van than in a plane. Inc the build.
worth thinking about benign insulation materials such as Thermafleece which provide both thermal plus some sound insulation. The VW electrician was overjoyed it wasn't that 'itchy stuff' which I think we should be putting nowhere near human beings. The van is a metal impermeable external shell so avoiding sealing any cavity areas and reckon allowing some internal 'breathing' of everything inside the metal skin is a good idea. I wish there was an option for the plastic carpet internal lining material.
What thickness battens have you used please?
9:55 what thickness ply did you use for the battens? I'm assuming 12mm the same as the ceiling ribs?
Yes 12 again.
Can I ask what, why and whether the small-squares of the vapour layer are attached directly to the metal?
emma cayless it is sound deadening material. ~2mm of butyl rubber to reduce the pitch of the metal vibrations when driving
Don’t need music. It totally disrupts everything. It’s just a lot of noise.