DW Machined Aluminum Direct Drive pedal overview and features, as compared to a DW 9000.
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2022
- Hope this help explain some of the new features of these pedals, as they are SO easy to use and adjust, while still attached to the bass drum hoop! I was able to snage the machined direct drive for less than I paid for the 9000! Just waited until the opportunity came up, and jumped on it! They are ridiculously awesome, AND overpriced! haha! But, you can 100% find them for half of retail, and in great condition if you know where to look! Phenomenal feel, super customizable, and all kinetic energy from your foot transfers directly into the beater, with no chain play, slack, or whip back. Love this pedal!!! Happy drumming, everyone!
-Blake
Excellent presentation. I have decided to get the dw machined direct drive double pedal after watching all of this video. Thank you take care
Awesome! You're awesome! Other good options are Speed Cobras or a DW 9000. I use the 9000s constantly, and they're half the price. Also, you can get mint condition double MDDs that are like new for half the price of the new ones. But the MDDs are awesome, too! Happy drumming!
A nice down to earth “working man” presentation. Wish I could find the same for the Yamaha FP9 direct drive.👍
Hey, brother! Wow, thanks so much! I try to be thorough enough that it helps others, but also describe the differences for people exploring new pedals. The FP9 is a killer pedal! DW actually "borrowed" some of their design elements from Yamaha. Basically, John at DW went around and took all the best features from each manufacturer, and threw them all into one pedal design. Haha! Appreciate the kind words! Happy drumming, and happy hunting! 👊
Look at Acd unlimited , he makes so many upgrades for several pedals , and superb quality
Nice comprehensive review. I have some awesome pedals and the DWMD is unbelievably sensitive and smooth but still, the 9000 is hard to beat... it could be the perfect pedal
Thank you, and agreed! I use my 9k as my workhorse pedal for pretty much everything! Happy drumming!
Very good presentation , true i was going to return my pedals have an issue doing doubles vs 9000 but your presentation really help as the manual that come with doesn’t explain as much in detail.Oh boy you are good !
Hey! Thank you very much! I'm very glad you found it helpful! My honest opinion, stick with/get a pair of double pedal 9000s for the price of a single DW machined aluminum direct drive. But, if you already have the MDDs, stick with those! I have both, and I end up using the 9000s as my workhorse pedal, and usually just disconnect the slave/second pedal most of the time and play it as a single. That way, and especially for the price, you have the option of a double pedal or a single with the 9000s. However, the DW MDD is also a fantastic pedal. You can also find them "used" in like new condition for significantly less if you look on Reverb. It really depends on what you like, your price range, and the context of use. I'm glad I could help! Thank you so much! Happy drumming!
@@blakenunndrums I already have 2 singles and today my double arrived direct drive ! Seems to do good but Saturday I will try the. At the studio ! Do you really really like them do they feel like they slack that all ?
@aldoluciano8242 No, they're great! My advice, tighten the actual spring tension that's behind the post, and then *loosen* the turn key adjustment of the spring. I know it sounds weird, but it offsets and creates and good feel and tension under the foot. Since they're direct drive, there's no chain slack at all! Every movement you put into the footboard translates into the beater. It'll take a little messing with to get it exactly as you like it, but just follow this video! ;) I'd also remove all but 1 of the weights in the beater, and put the 1 weight in the lowest spot of the 4 slots, so it's at a lower center of gravity. If you have any further questions or need help, just let me know! You'll love em!
Very comprehensive review!!! Thank You!!!!!!!
Thanks for checking it out! Hope it was helpful in some way. You're welcome! Happy drumming!
I'm a big fan of direct drive pedals. I started on a Speed King, then went to a chain Camco and eventually got a chain Iron Cobra pedal by Tama. It got left behind in a move so I bought a Gibraltar direct drive pedal and it's been fantastic once I got it dialed in. I always wanted that DW pedal and I just found one for around 300 bucks too!
Awesome! What model did you get? The new machined aluminum dd? Enjoy!
@@blakenunndrums Its a single pedal machined direct drive like the one you showed. It's in very good shape too, looks new!
@Darrylizer1 oh yeah, they're indestructible. I got mine used in mint condition, too. The one I'm showing in this video. One word of advice, I'd put a little extra tension on the spring itself, loosen the external/key tension for the spring, and put a single one of the shot weights on the lowest point/center of gravity (if using the beater that comes with it). That's how I got my pedal to have the best action and still a good amount of power on it. That's the last pedal you'll ever need. Honestly, I use a dw 9000 as my workhorse pedal though, I can get more power out of it and just as much sensitivity. But I use both! Enjoy!
Let me start out by saying first of all I am a big fan of direct-drive pedals because my first pedal that I started out on decades ago was a Ludwig speed King. Now that being said I've tried out all kinds of pedals from all kinds of brands and let me tell you that this pedal here( DW direct-drive aluminum) is killer. Only problem is it's too expensive for the masses. For the price of this I will take a couple of new speed-kings and put some money in my pocket. Yeah. 😁🥁
Good points, and that's why I just bought the single. I play all sorts of chain and direct drives, and my DW 9000 works just as well once you get the spring tension and cam set right. Much rather spend less for the same action, or get doubles for the price of a single. 🫡👍
Great video and thank you bro!
Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it was of some help for you! If you get/got one of these, it's quite literally the last pedal you'll ever need to buy. Thing is bulletproof! Heck, cannon proof! lol! I go back and forth between my 9000s chain driven and the machined aluminum direct drive often, and the direct drive aluminum has such ease of access to adjustments and can be fine tuned to such a degree, that makes it hard to beat! With different striking surfaces that simply unscrew onto the beater, weights you can take in or out for a heavier or lighter pendulum swing, and the cam/spring/footboard height adjustments all so easy to change, it's a great pedal! If you haven't pulled the trigger yet, I HIGHLY recommend just buying a mint condition used one. That's what I did, and got the bag and weights and different beaters and all that, for something like 350-375$. They're really expensive, but well-made, so getting a used one in good shape will be no issue, if you want to save some money. 👍 👊 🥁
great video, thank you for showing comparison
Thanks for watching! Happy drumming! Thanks!
I use the Pearl Eliminator Red Line 2050 with belt and it's awesome for the price (about 200 single pedal ). I have the same as double pedal on my electronic kit. Awesome too. You can change the accerleration mode with different adapters (included). Cool video and information of drum pedals and the functionality!👍👏
The eliminators are great pedals! I play everything with a single pedal once I taught myself to play constant 16ths, or trips, etc with one pedal, while keeping the pulse on the hat going simultaneously. I used speed Cobra doubles for quite awhile, but figured out how to use technique and feathering to be able to pull off what normally takes 2 pedals with a single. But, I've used all the ones you've mentioned, DWs, Axis, Cobras (iron and speed), and Pearl's. This machined direct drive pedal is the shiz, bro! Love it!
This is a great review
Hey! Why thank you! I have a tendency to ramble a bit, but I want to make sure people have all the knowledge they may need to make an informed decision. In all honesty, I'd go with a 9000 over the MDD, but it's personal choice. The MDD is its own beast, and the adjustments are top notch! It's just the 9000 is cheaper, made just as well, has an even better feel under the foot with toe-ball/heel-toe/16ths in many cases, and is a super solid workhorse pedal. I use my 9000s (I have multiple. lol) WAY more than my MDD. The mdd basically just stays on the home studio kit, while my 9000 gets used constantly and never fails me. Happy drumming, my bro! Thanks for the kudos! Take care, doctor!
Edit: Oh! And I have a 9000 hi hat stand too, and that's the best feeling and responsive hat stand I've EVER used! ...and I've used them ALL! lol. Iron Cobras, Speed Cobras, Yammies, PDP, DWs, etc. 9000s are where it's at, for me at least! Lol! Take care!
Great video Dude!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Great video!
Thank you so much!
I've been wanting to try out and feel a direct drive pedal! Does the spring interfere with your shoe? Awesome review!!!!!!!!
Thanks! The MDD pedal has the spring housed within the post/s of the pedal, and everything is adjustable by a simple turning of a drum key, including your spring tension. It is a fantastic pedal! *But,* you can get a 9000 for almost half the price, and it feels and operates VERY close to the MDD (machined direct drive). If I were buying a workhorse pedal for all my needs and thinking of prices, I'd 100% get a 9000 over a MDD. Happy drumming!
Ive just been looking at the Double version of this pedal. £1200 lol :) but looks cool :) ....I wish all product reviews were as good as yours.
Hey, bro! Yeah, that's why I just got a mint condition used one! They're bulletproof! I just snagged a like new used one for half the cost! 😉 Last pedal you'll ever need if you get one! But, the 9000s are pretty much just as good! Thanks for the kudos on the review!
@@blakenunndrums I currently have the Rolland Noise eater double pedals and they are built like tanks, and I struggle to get any kind of speed or response from them, might be just me being slow and lack of foot strength, but they just feel hard work on quick doubles etc. To be honest, I don't really use double pedals in my music I play. Take care mate :)
@@Drum2 Oh, I stopped using doubles forever ago! lol! I still use my Speed Cobra doubles every now and again, but I use my 9000 and machined aluminum single pedals constantly! Yeah, the problem with any included e-kit pedals, they aren't pedal manufacturers, and the action is *always* off in one way or another. I've messed with Alesis, Roland, Simmons, and Yamaha (Yamaha actually makes good pedals though) pedals that come with e-kits for myself and students often, and they're never as good as companies that specifically make and are known for their hardware. Tama Iron Cobras, DW 5000-9000s, the newer aluminum, and Yamaha 9s are the best pedals/manufacturers out there, IMO. I'm sure it's a combo of factors, but technique and pedal model make HUGE differences in playability. Roland isn't known for their pedals, but their e-kits. My students always upgrade their e-kit pedals first chance they get to something like DW 5000s. If you're looking for an affordable pair of doubles, the DW 5ks are 100% the way to go! Great pedals! But like we both said, if not playing doubles a lot, I'd just get a really good single pedal. You'll be amazed at the difference in the feel under your feet, bro! Definitely!
@@blakenunndrums Just ordered one :)
@@Drum2 Nice, bro! A machined aluminum, or a 9000? Or a set of doubles? Congrats!
Hi mate ,
There's other pedals with that kind of beater.
They say that you don't get the same power in every strike of the bass drum because the top of the beater moves and isn't solid.
So if you hit it softer it won't hit the skin the same way because the angle changes .You don't hit the bass drum exactly the same every time , so the beater isnt always hitting properly again cause it moves.
Yeah, I have all sorts of types of beaters. The thing with this one is you can actually put weights (up to 4) behind the actual beater. And that part doesn't move. Everything locks with a double position lock and regular key lock, plus the top part locks down with a small hex key. I get what you're saying, but all those parts are lockable on pretty much every pedal. I have Tama, Yamaha, Pearl, DW, Gibraltar, etc. pedals. I mess with different beaters all the time, and that particular one that comes with the DW machined aluminum is definitely lockable and you can fix it at a certain angle and make it stay there. Plus the front of the beater screws on and locks to be able to hold and place the 4 weights behind it. DW 9000 is my favorite pedal though, and they're a lot less than the machined aluminum. I use a DW 9000 as my workhorse pedal for almost everything.
Blake bottom line … which pedal direct drive or chain? Which one do you like?
I have multiple of both, and my 9000 has been my workhorse for awhile. Some direct drives (like my Axis pedal) I like, but prefer the 9000/chain driven better than that one. But, once I got this machined direct drive, it's my favorite, not only because of the action, but because of all the other features as well. Since I'm a single pedal player (played doubles for a LONG time), and I've taught myself to play constant 16ths, or trips, etc. with one pedal that takes most people two pedals to pull off, so that way I can play quarters on the hatat the same time I'm playing 16ths. When working and doing gigs, that's first and foremost what the band is always looking at, what my pulse is on the hat, not how fast I'm blasting double pedals. Lol! 😉 But, the DW machined is probably the most sensitive and accurate pedal I've ever used!
Tight tension would be hard to control but is fast for only speed basing
Yeah, everyone has their preferences of the field. They like on their pedals. But what I was saying is that I loosened the main tension adjustment on the post of the pedal and then tightened the inner spring tension adjustment. I've experimented with every Possible setting and I found that loosening the outer post tension but tightening the inner spring tension gives you the best response. But in all honesty, 9000s are a better pedal all around, and cheaper. I just bought one MDD to test and compare it to others. I had speed cobras, Pearl Eliminators, 5000, 9000s, etc. 9000s are where it's at!
And, I can easily play all note values on the MDD, not just blasting 16ths. It's all in you technique. I can play the same things I can on a 500$ pedal on a 50$ used pedal. ALL technique! :)
When the spring is so tight the pedal and beater wants to bounce back and forth off the base at rates that don’t match the tempo of most songs and force has to be used to control overbeating the tempo is what I am getting at. Does not matter about 16ths it’s about control of the tempo. Does not matter about the price of your bass drum pedal has nothing to do with it. Direct drive is not as forgiving as chain drive. It bounces back and forth with power behind it. I like my setting up a bit from what I call medium tension and I can control the tempo and still get speed out of it without the pedal bouncing off my foot
@Roger Brichacek I think you're misunderstanding me. We're both saying the same thing. That IS what the tension of my pedal is at, and that's why I said I can do the same things with a 1k$ pedal as I can with a used POS 50$ pedal. I'm agreeing with you. I don't like super tight tension either, and I stated that I *loosened* the main adjustment way down, and then put slightly more tension on the traditional tension adjustment on the actual spring. That's why I said regardless of playing speed cobras, DWs, Pearl's, Tamaa, Yamahas, or even Gibraltars; I can do the same things with, because of *technique.* I'm never playing blast beats anyway, and I would have gotten a set of doubles if I was. What I mean by "16ths" is not *constant* 16ths. I'm talking about syncopation, triplets, dotted 8ths tied to 16ths, and Bonham triplets; all with one pedal, WHILE playing the hat with my foot simultaneously. If you watched any of my playing videos, you'd instantly see that I use many types of pedals, and I always keep the pulse on the hat, while playing what would normally take double pedals for people to play, with a single pedal. My main adjustment is almost at the loosest position, while my spring lock is about halfway up the threads. Plus, many people the world over that do play a lot of fast note values or constant 16ths will tell you that having more tension allows for a faster beater pendulum tempo, and hence faster playing. But, I'm a groove and pocket drummer, not a blaster. lol. We're basically saying the same thing in different ways. Lastly, did you catch the part about me saying that I liked *cheaper* pedals anyway? Cause it seems like you missed many of my points, and are just trying to show how knowledgeable you are, but you didn't even take the time to understand what I was saying. In any case, thanks for stopping by, and happy drumming!
found a floor model of the pink MDD for cheaper than most used I’ve seen online. Jus came in the mail today, the craftsmanship is breathtaking. I’ve played a 9000 for at least over 7 years now, n I noticed immediately even when I changed all the settings on the MDD to get it as least resistance as possible, i was able to “dribble” 16ths on my 9000 soooo much more consistently n with way less pressure/exertion than the MDD. Do you think that’s bc it’s a chain or is it jus learning curve bc it’s the first time I’ve ever even really played a Direct Drive? I’m def going to keep it bc I actually like the fact it makes things more difficult, that can only pay off in the long run, BUT a big selling point for me was hearing from every drummer i know who plays DD pedals say that DD’s are more responsive n allow you to go faster. Was wondering if I could get any insight from you on this, as this video was by far the most comprehensive vid on the MDD I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thank you!
Hello! I know EXACTLY what you mean! I play a 9000 most the time as well, if not using the MDD. It's just a matter of taking out weights if you have any in the beater, adjusting footboard height, loosening spring tension, and moving the cam a couple clicks back from factory settings. I have to teach right now, but I can help you dial it in! I'll get back to you when I have more time to leave a detailed response. Honestly, it's just getting used to the direct drive, and way the the tension and cam adjustments work. I promise, it's a killer pedal! I can generally flutter and do constant 16ths or 16th note trips with the MDD just as well or better than my 9000 once I got the settings right, and spent a couple weeks using it. Same thing happened to me when switching from Speed Cobras to a DW 9000! It's all about footboard angle, beater weight, beater height, cam adjustment, and just getting used to the feel of a new pedal. I'll definitely help you out! If you can tell me the type of settings you have on your 9000, that'll help me guide you with the MDD faster too. Like, do you like a lot of spring tension, or a little? How far back does your beater come? What type of beater do you have on your 9000? How far angled is your footboard? Etc. That'll help me tell you the exact settings to try on the new MDD. I promise, once you get it dialed in and used to how or feels under the foot, it's the last pedal you'll ever need! It can literally adjust to ANYTHING you want it to feel like. 👍 Talk soon!
Since you have everything set as loose as possible, that may be the problem right away. More spring tension with a direct drive often times allows you to feather easier. What I did was manually *tighten* the spring on the inside first (not the key adjustment, the actual spring), and then I loosened the key adjustment. 😉 More inner spring tension, less key adjustment outer adjustment spring tension. That, and footboard and cam angle made the biggest differences for me.
@@blakenunndrums thank you! tension pretty much solved it!
@@SmokinRoach Oh dude, that's excellent! I just now finished teaching! lol! 🙄 Hands are busted! 😆 But, that's awesome you figured it out! I think the secret I found out (probably others before me, but I've never heard anyone else explain doing it) was tightening the spring tension with the actual inner spring adjustment (like you would adjust any other pedals spring), but then loosening the key spring adjustment by a few clicks. I add one weight to my beater, on the lowest of the 4 points. That way the center of gravity is lower on the weight of the beater, and you get a little more pendulum swing out of your beater. Just one weight makes a large difference. Lastly, I raised the footboard height, and brought the cam/beater adjustment back by 2 clicks so there's more motion and room for various techniques. Just lemme know if you have any other questions, but it seems like you're already pretty knowledgeable about pedals in general! It's just getting used to a different under the foot feel. But once you do... 🤯 KILLER pedal!! Keep that heel low (but heel up) and your feet a little "penguin toed" (heels inward), and it'll feel effortless in just a week or so of using it. I'm a firm believer in the 9000s too, so I get your exact issues. Honestly though, once you get used to the MDD, it's easier to use than the 9000s. Plus, you can keep the pedal mounted to the bass drum WHILE adjusting it, which the 9000 can't do. Happy drumming, brother!
@@blakenunndrums smart with the weight on the bottom one! i got one weight on top n will switch when I hit the shed tmrw. But yea once I tightened the spring inside (also have it maxxed out on the outside tension) ooooooooweeeeeeee we DRIBBLIN 🤣 tho interestingly now I’m actually sometimes speeding up almost uncontrollably (faster than I’ve ever been able to play too which is dope) bc with the 9000 I got really used to sort of proactively footing/kicking(?) the pedal when dribbling bc of the slack of the chain, so I’d be hitting it with my foot before it would actually hit the bass n got used to that kinda delayed rhythm so now I gotta unlearn that bc the response on this MDD is expeditious, if not instant! V excited for this learning curve tho bc def seeing the potential of achieving single foot groupings at a speed I’ve never thought possible. Really appreciate your thorough help!
I'm not awake enough to figure out what he meant about double pedal beaters.
Haha! It's just if you have bass drums that are offset and not set up flush/evenly on a plane, you can pitch the beaters at a slight side angle so they hit the bass drums flush. Don't worry about the beaters, just worry about the action. A 9000 will work just as well.
@@blakenunndrums Tilted at an angle! Great video, I'm awake now.
your camera position and semi squating infront of it for nearly 25mins was a strange choice.
Ok. But, how would you expect someone to show close ups of everything I showed from across the room with no ability to see the actual parts I was referring to? 🤣
You're welcome to to ignore it, and refer to any other videos (which don't show any of the areas i did, but just explained how it works, whithout showing the internal parts)! Why do you think every single other person that commented said it was a great review? Because they could see all the adjustments right next to the camera so they could easily see all the adjustments, parts, and explanations easily.... and if you don't know me, how I go about my reviews, have nothing to say regarding the information I'm sure you better understood in this review than any others because of the way I presented the review; why leave a comment at all. *That's* a strange choice. Expect me to bend over and take each pedal off the actual kit each time, rather than have them on the floor to easily access and show without having to take them off the actual kits each time? Plus, I have plenty of other videos actually playing the pedals. That's why this is a review, not a playing video. Have a good day and happy drumming!