How to PROPERLY Paint Over Rust. PART 1 of 2- Prep Work (Car Rust Repair)
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- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- How to PROPERLY Paint Over Rust. PART 1 of 2- Prep Work (Car Rust Repair). In this video we are going to take a look at what it takes to properly paint over rust. THIS VIDEO IS ONLY GOING TO COVER THE PREP WORK. I'm going to be painting the chassis of a vehicle but this procedure would apply to any sort of rusty metal that you want to paint. It could be a car, truck, trailer, mower deck, farm equipment, patio furniture etc. Or even just parts, a frame, fender, doors, axles, or fuel tank.
I started by removing all the parts from the bottom of this car. Transmission, axle, fuel tank, and exhaust. As well as all the fuel lines, brake lines, and emergency brake cables. Once all of the major parts that you do not want to mask off are removed, you can start removing as much rust as possible. I used a 4.5 angle grinder and a stripping disc to do most of the rust removal. The tight areas required a pneumatic die grinder and a 60 grit sanding disc.
Once the entire chassis has been stripped it moved to a phosphoric acid rust converter and paint prep. I sprayed sections of the chassis down, and scrubbed the acid into the metal, rust, and any paint left with a red scotch brite pad. This does a few things. This will remove any light rust, convert any rust that is left into iron phosphate, sand the metal and existing paint, and finally, leave a chemical etch on the metal to keep light surface rust from quickly reforming as well as help with primer adhesion.
How to Undercoat a rusty vehicle: • How to PROPERLY Underc...
Rust Converter Testing: • MOST Rust Converters A...
Tools and supplies I used in this video:
Stripping Discs: amzn.to/3NIGjd8
60 Grit Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3u7byqE
Red Scotch Brite: amzn.to/37egq46
Gloves: amzn.to/3NKYvD0
4.5 inch Grinder (Cheap 7amp): amzn.to/3Lwup4e
Pneumatic Die Grinder: amzn.to/3u7ctaA
Phosphoric Acids:
Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3LK1D09
Ospho: amzn.to/3x7zZWG
Rustoleum Gel: amzn.to/3DM1Ay8
Mastercoat Metal Prep (What I used because I'm using their paint): nomorerust.com/store/metal-pr...
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Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
00:00 Intro
00:09 Should you REALLY do this?
1:58 Why am I doing this?
2:42 Disassembly
3:12 Condition of the vehicle
4:04 Cleaning. Remove all grease & oils
5:34 Rust removal tools
8:30 PPE equipment
9:15 Something to consider if you have existing paint
12:30 Stripping existing paint and rust
14:10 Phosphoric acid products
15:49 How to apply phosphoric acid
17:28 Acid treatment before & after
18:42 What the chassis looks like when it's ready for paint.
19:36 What the chassis looked like when we started
20:10 Next steps & Outro
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
Tools and supplies I used in this video:
Stripping Discs: amzn.to/3NIGjd8
60 Grit Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3u7byqE
Red Scotch Brite: amzn.to/37egq46
Gloves: amzn.to/3NKYvD0
Mask: amzn.to/3K7YcQw
4.5 inch Grinder (Cheap 7amp): amzn.to/3Lwup4e
Pneumatic Die Grinder: amzn.to/3u7ctaA
Phosphoric Acids:
Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3LK1D09
Ospho: amzn.to/3x7zZWG
Rustoleum Gel: amzn.to/3DM1Ay8
Mastercoat Metal Prep (What I used because I'm using their paint): nomorerust.com/store/metal-pr...
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Can I use Cooroseal to convert my existing undercarriage rust over to fresh looking black and then top coat with a lanolin based product to preserve the fresh black look of the Cooroseal and have success with regards to it holding up over time???
I love that within the first 5 minutes you answered the question of fluid film vs paint.
Awesome video as always.
As a master machinsit i dont do thsi way,, and rust will never appear again,, made in my jeep, adn after 20 years still there as new,, had to paint everyyear,, but no more...
Man, I saw the video and it was amazing. You just have saved me so much of research and testing, I am so grateful for the video and that you shared it. You did an unbelievable thing by sharing the video and others. I have seen quite a few of them. Thanks so much again!
Have you used Evaporust. It removes the rust rather than converting it. It is biodegradable and low toxicity. I’ve had a lot of success with it.
Amazing! My compliments to your patience ... And neck!
You know what sir, I don't believe that u can actually paint a frame. To prove me wrong I need u to come help me do mines 😄
This was helpful, as your rust chemical videos have been. I've been trying to decide on what products to use on my project, and this settled it for me. I'm doing some inner frame as well, and I don't trust any inner frame coatings to actually deal with the rust because why would the rust not just continue to eat the metal from under the paint? I don't buy it. I was going to do rust kutter but having products that play well together is a win for me. Thanks.
Finally, someone who knows what they are talking about, through highly thought out procedures that work! EXCELLENT VIDEO! SUBSCRIBED!! AAAAA++++++++++
I’m really happy I found this channel.. you are the Rust Master..
Mastercoat products are awesome I used there metal prep, master series silver then ag111 in my broncos cowl area. After wire wheeling it with a die grinder.
this channel is undervalued
I think so too but I'm only slightly biased 😂😂😂
Very informative. Fantastic video. Great job done. Rust Masters.👍
Just found you channel! I’ve learn more about this stuff I. The last two hours than I have from other videos! Subscribed!
Repair geek makes a video, I watch it. It's that simple 👍🏼
I have a 1996 Daihatsu Hijet JDM mini truck on its way from Japan. It has some spots with mild surface rust and I'm going to paint it inside and out with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. This info was very useful. Thank you.
Great content ! I'm going to be doing a full restoration on my Fox body 🦊 from the ground up but I will be repairing the floor pan and frame rails .
I'm also going to use a rust converter on all the exposed metal fabrication . Thank You for the video .🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Thanks mate, I only needed to watch the first 3 minutes. Lanolin it is :)
Kudos on putting so much work into saving your car. I'm looking forward to watching the other parts of the video.
amazing job
Great stuff! Thanks for your time
Great video(s)! I’m looking at doing the same thing to my one ton truck. You should take the cleaning portion of this video and make a separate video of it so it’s easy to find. That was my question I was going to ask while watching the video and then the cleaning part came on! ☺️
Great video, impressive!
Thank you for the full walk-through including the fact it's never perfect on a real car. Coupled with your product testing on rust treatments, I feel I can confidently choose a treatment for my vehicle.
I think that will be a strip, treat and paint for the frame exterior. While lanolin coatings may be effective they also make other leaks hard to spot when the entire undercarriage is constantly oily. I'll likely just coat the interior of the frame rails in lanolin.
Amazing job! 👍
I'd get a full face mask if I was doing that much grinding looking up....those safety glasses still let dust in. All it takes is just one metalcdust speck to ruin your eyes. 😮
Amen to that. I used a set of glasses like those. Rust and wind and my eye. Was led into the ER by the ex wife and I found out how little she actually cared when she led into a doorframe at a full walk..
Protect your eyes folks..
Oh wow that's funny, I am researching the topic because i have that EXACT car i want to do this on.... same color too. Thanks for the tips!
Your videos are excellent. Thourough job.
Yo buddy thanks alot.. im in the middle of a modern restoration, daily driver.. major new panel weld ins to resolve rust. Now underneath found some more rust. I decided just now do what i can reach the surfave shield the rest.. is what it is..
You can make your own rust converter in bulk, cheap. Phosphoric acid of course, make your solution 20-25% and then add 0.1-0.3% carbomer 940 to thicken it up. Works like a dream, super cheap too.
I'm in the process of doing precisely what you're doing in this video on my 30 year old Talon, removing basically everything rear of the t-case, including the entire exhaust pipe, heat shield and drive shaft. In fact yesterday I finally (I hope!) ground out just about all the remaining rust on the underbody panels, mainly using a die grinder for most surfaces and a rotary tool to get at all those hard to reach corners and crevices that even a die grinder can't get to.
I also removed all the brackets that hold fuel and brake lines and wiring harnesses, to derust and treat as well, and will even clean up and treat all fasteners (other than ones I'm replacing per the FSM). This is a one in a lifetime job for me on this car and I want to do it right. Then I washed everything with Super Clean (which I've found is more effective for me than Simple Green or Purple Power).
And just as you did I also came across the same "phantom rust" situation you had, where seemingly good paint had rust underneath it. In fact I'm going to double-check everything now to make sure I didn't miss any, so thanks for pointing this out.
I'm not going to get fancy with the prep and paint, in terms of esthetics, as this is the underbody and most of it will get covered. I went over everything I derusted with a surface conditioning disc on the die grinder and then some sanding drums and wood grinding bits on the rotary tool (I find that wood grinding bits are effective in removing rust but not good metal), so it's mechanically prepped.
Then I washed everything again with Super Clean, rinsed it all down, and let it dry. That was yesterday. Today I hope to apply Metal Prep to the treated areas, which has phosphoric plus zinc. When that's dry, I'll apply either primer and paint, or just paint. Still not sure what I'll use. I prefer that the color more or less matches the original paint, so it doesn't have that first time DIY look, but I doubt that I'll get it perfect. Anyone know which color matches that electroplating? Mine has the exact same color as yours.
One bit of advice though. It's great that you have a lift, but I think that working on a car underbody that's over your head is less than optimal, for the reasons you gave. I don't have a lift so the rear has been on jack stands, and I've been working under it on my back on a creeper. I actually found this to be really easy on my neck and back, with the only issue being that I had to be careful to not be directly under whatever I was working on so the dust and particles didn't get into my eyes, which happens even with safety goggles. So next time you do this you might want to lower the lift to where the underbody is around a foot or two above you when lying on your back on a creeper, whatever height works best for you. Oh, and the rotary tool was indispensable for those hard to reach spots.
Great video!
That's what I'm doing with my 1981 Chevy Van G10. I have it all stripped and on jack stands. I'm on my back with a creeper and it's better for my neck.
I too live near Akron, Oh, I also have the same lift as you. But my neck has been fused and I have tendonitis in my shoulders. My work around was to buy a new high back desk chair and take my old one out to the shop. Then you can lower the car and recline the chair and work while seated with neck support. Bonus, you can roll around just don't roll your head into the lift arms more than once or twice.
Thank you for making this
There's a black undercoating too. I sprayed my car black after I flashed it with sand blaster and sprayed with undercoating looked great
So I'm confused. In your rust converter video, you recommended rust kutter or vht rust converter. Not rustoleum. But now you say your favorite is rustoleum. Can you explain?
AMAZING video
A-ha, It is a Mustang , just like I thought in part 2. I seen that first and now i watched part one. Cool. I have one too but mine is a fox chassis Stang . 1988 . cool vidoes and thanks for all the info. I think the bottom of mine looks about the same as yours.
REALLY impressed with your lanolin research and presentations. Undercoating my '06 Town Car this afternoon in Northeast Ohio. As luck would have it, my fuel tank straps gave out after filling up last night. Bare Spectra Premium ST211 Fuel Tank Straps are due today. I started this video to determine if it would be better to paint them, then apply lanolin, or skip the paint? I'm now leaning toward skipping the paint.
I had a couple questions: Does Surface Shield creep as well as Fluid Film? If the lanolin never sees water spray, or get washed away, does it still stop rest (seal the surface) beyond one or two years?
It's refreshing to see an intelligent young person with a solid work ethic, not afraid to get their hands dirty. You are a rare breed these days!
As far as those straps go, you can paint them but eventually you will have to touch up the paint. You can put lanolin on them but eventually you will have to touch up the lanolin. Both methods need maintaining.
So as far as creeping goes, I have preliminary data. Nothing that I'm willing to go on record as saying. Both products will creep fairly well. I highly doubt the difference in creeping ability between them would have any tangible affect on how they prevent rust. After 10 years of religious FF or SS use I doubt you'd notice a difference. I'm probably going to do some standardized testing on this topic because there are a lot of claims from companies about creeping but no claims about the product that has crept offering any sort of rust protection. There's lots companies out there saying "Look at this! Look how far this has crept!" Nobody has actually tested to see if that offers any protection.
I would be doing 80% of what you see on this channel if the camera wasn't on. I really just started the channel to document what I was doing out in my shop. I never really expected it to go anywhere haha.
Very good video and excellent insight, thanks for the heads-up. I think I will use that Blaster Lanolin spray instead. It would have been nice if the auto manufacturers spent the extra $50 to properly undercoat the vehicles before they were assembled, would have been a whole lot less work then...
Great videos!! After using Mastercoat permanent rust sealer how long did you wait to use Raptor Liner? If you wait a week or so do you have to sand/rough up Matercoat prior to using Raptor Liner?
in your other video of best converters you had a none spray rustoleum in a jug and didnt rate it well. is this spray gel different?
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it with korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
your the king of small talk.
Okay go watch shorts then...
I can’t thank you enough! I have some mild rust on a 2017 Promaster. I live and bought it in OC Cali. But it spent some time I’m WA. Nobody here would even look at it much less treat it. I finally found one auto body shop that looked at it and said rust is a cancer and there’s nothing I can do except sell the van to get rid of it! After watching your content I feel like there are absolutely solutions to this! I’ve purchased surface shield along with a wire brush etc… and I’m so excited to get this van protected. Seriously, THANK YOU 🙏🏼
I wouldn't obsess over it. Body shops are full of morons. You can literally just place all of the underpaneling. smh
im currently building a long flatbed camper. it has some existing rust, and obviously the new metal on the flatbed is still bare. is this an ideal candidate for paint?
so @ 18:38 all that black rust and pitting is ok before all the coats? I just tried my first amateur job on a small circle to start and after sanding for awhile I had just a bunch of this blackness. Didn't know if it should be gone and pure silver or ok to move on with rust inhibitor ,primer filler primer paint
Thank you
So you suggest that for most of us trying to stave off rust under our daily driver that we should just use a lanoline of fluid film product and this sounds appealing to me. My question though is any prep needed before spraying the under carriage with a fluid film coating? Do you have a recommendation for the best fluid film for this application?
Have you tried “Oil Eater” degreaser? I haven’t used Simple Green since.
Can you use phosphoric acid and then oil undercoat? Awesome video!
Could you use lanolin for further protection over the raptorliner?
Man I been there under a chassis trying to prep for paint. ONCE. Then I got a sand blaster. HUGE difference.
The instructions for the Mastercoat say to smooth out any scaling and then apply. Is it really necessary to use the phosphoric acid? I'm getting ready to de-rust my truck frame, thanks for posting this video! I had never heard of Mastercoat before.
Does the phosphoric acid play nicely with the seam sealer?
If I were restoring a car that will be a daily driver and I wanted to do this, let the paint cure, and follow up with an oil based undercoating, would this be a good idea?
if you did this with ospho how would you claen it off?
If you were gonna undercoat it would you still paint it or just undercoat the bare metal ?
the choice is clear, spray the hell out of the underside with lanolin!
How did you decide on the paints you are using? Could you elaborate a bit on what else you were considering and how you narrowed it down to the mastercoat primer and raptor liner topcoat? Might be a good topic for another vid if you haven't already done it, I'd certainly watch it.
I'm going to talk about paint at length the next video.
Nice video!. I have had fantastic results painting over tight rust with this stuff:
Rust-Oleum
Industrial High
Performance
V2100 System
Rust Reformer,
Aerosol Can
Haven’t found anything better
Wow I didn't know about this line of products. I've been using the Rustoleum Professional High Performance in spray cans, it has a similar silvery package label to the one you listed. Do you know how they compare to each other? What are the differences?
@@JPearlLapis I’m not sure, I haven’t used the one you mentioned. I have used the cold zinc coating before from the same line of products on boat lifts and have had good results as well
Good Video, rust removal is always tough to tackle. However, in the case that you have, where you don't have heavy Rust and scale, a faster and more thorough approach would be to use paint stripper, even a dremmel tool can't reach where paint stripper can. it may take two or three applications of the stripper, (use power washer to remove each application) but it will still be far faster than grinding and wire wheels and far more thorough. In fact, it is so thorough that afterwards you should use a phosphoric acid product that can be sprayed on, such as Ospho, or the liquid version of Rustoleum rust dissolver, so you can actually reach all the surface rust you exposed.
I don't disagree at all. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
lol
My last Fox , I used bedliner spray "textured finish" and it worked very well , like you stated "NOT A DAILY DRIVER" tho
This car came out AWESOME with the Raptor Liner. Finishing up reassembly now.
@@RepairGeek like to see that , u posted it yet? lol
No I'm currently working on it. It's going to be a few days. I'm trying to get an after shot with the car mostly reassembled lol.
@@RepairGeek sweet , take the time to get it almost perfect lol,,ttyl..i will be breaking my 85 coupe down soon , almost to bare body!!!
Brilliant tutorial. After sanding the rust away you applied phosphoric acid. Shall this be whiped of after drying or just paint it over? Is this acid ki d of rust converter? For example if rust pits occur, does this acid convert the rust and putty or paint can stick well?
Paint will stick nicely. No need to rinse
For a job like this, you could use a turbo nozzle on your pressure washer. The constantly varying angle of the turbo nozzle combined with the jet it outputs will break up and blast away all lifted paint and a fair bit of scale very quickly. All those bumps you felt on the E-coat would have been blasted away by a turbo nozzle.
In shipyards, they pressure wash, then needle scale, and finish with sand blasting & hand sanding for their removal steps. And they get to deal with rust, barnacles, and who knows whatever other calcifying creatures that set up shop on a hull.
rinsing the acid wash with a baking soda/water solution is a good idea for a more long lasting job, also rust is a moisture sponge, if you can apply the paint when the air humidity is very low and warm, there is less chance of trapping moisture in the rust.
It’s not needed with phosphoric acid
If you hadn't done anything to fix the rust, how long do you think it would take to become more than just a cosmetic issue, assuming the car was not driven again in the winter?
Hi, what is your opinion on using naval products on a bare undercarriage? I'm thinking about red lead or red oxide primer etc etc
What I'm going to use will last much longer than oxide primer. Use what works for you, if that's oxide primer, go for it. I don't want to do all this again lol.
have you even throught about tryting to lower the lift to about regular suspension height and do the work on a creeper on your back, instead?
How old was that car? It really explains what us Midwest folks have to deal with half of the year every year
Did you remove all seam sealer before painting or only spots you felt necessary? I’m planning on doing this to a 99 civic and wanted to get your opinion. Thanks
I left the seam sealer. It comes down to what condition the car is in. If it's dried out and flaking then, yes strip it.
This looks like one of those projects you get involved with and then realize holy s*** what did I get myself into. Personally I would definitely prefer the oil method over this any day of the week. I'm sure you would too 😅😅
Absolutely. I've been doing the same thing, and what I'd hoped was a one week job tops to remove the entire rear end, clean things up, derust, paint, and replace all the bushings, BJs & link connectors, has turned into a month-long and counting undertaking. There was just SO much rust, none structurally concerning, everything's still rock-solid, but enough to keep me busy just with that for weeks. I mean if you're going to do it, do it right, so the rust doesn't come back again. But not something I ever want to do again. I'd sooner rebuild a trans.
Lanolin will not stop rust. Only slow it. Cleab the frame, give it rust proof coatings of paint or bedliner or both, and then the ADDITION of lanolin coatings every year is what will protect the frame for the longest time. If it's a toyota, then the frame might outlast the engine.
Nothing beats rust/corrosion completely. Yearly applied lanolin will slow the progression of rust so much that it's no longer relevant for as long as you're willing to maintain the coating.
I have to do this to my 07 4 runner...around rear axle and shock mounts...etc.
Just picked up an 04 GX470, she needs some love too.
How tacky is it after drying? I'm looking for something that can be used at sand dunes.
Another good question or at least a question I have, is the cost of each. What would be the difference. I'm talking about product costs only, not labor.
Would you recommend using Seam sealer in any areas?
Yes. Every seam anywhere!!!
The fluid film would look good and be a good option if it was black. I'm going through debating this now on a 2008 h2 I just bought body is perfect and interior is perfect but lots of rust underneath. I'm planning on using it for audio competition so I want it looking great.
why u caring how it looking---who be under dat ting?
@rabokarabekian409 because sql comps also judge on the vehicle condition because of cork sniffers. And as high as mine is yes you can see.
Can you recommend anybody who you trust to work on the undercarriage of my sprinter van
I'm in Illinois and would like to do this on my 2004 BMW 3 series coupe.
In what order would you advise to degrease / phosphoric acid / re-sand, prior to painting??? Thanks
Degrease, remove rust, phosphoric acid, paint
@@RepairGeek Thank you
Any new seam sealer?
Questions, what about chemical rust reformer? Then prime and paint. And what about painting then lanolin? Could you get away with less labor on the paint job if you put lanolin on after the paint is set?
The rust reformers I've tested were less than ideal. Check my videos for the comparison test. If you're going to spray lanolin just spray the black version. You get the same effect as a coat of black paint with out the prep work of the BS of paint. Just recoat it once a year.
Hi man, I got some rust and some rust pitting on my rear inside wheel Wells. I've sanded as much as possible but rust still visible. I've also rust treated it korust. And added crown t40 rust proofer on top. But I wamt to make it look better can I use eastwood rust encapulator topped with raptor liner then once dry top it with krown t40 again? I'm in the UK so hard to get a hold of other products. It's also daily driven. Thank you in advance
How long will this paint job last? 50 hours of paint blasts how many hours?
Nother question, what's the percentage phosphoric acid in these products? Could I use cola?
Don't use cola. Waste of time and cola. Check the SDS for each product for the acid concentration.
what about painting the rusty areas with POR?
That won't fix the rust under the existing paint like what I found.
You got to totally remove the rust before applying oil? Orjust the loose rust? I removed the loose rust and flaking paint but there are still some pits and surface rust in places. Worth touching up those places with paint and then oil or just skip the paint and just do oil?
Just loose stuff. Do oil on a daily driver. Surface that you can't use oil, use what I showed in this series.
@@RepairGeek Surfaces that you can't use oil?
Can you get away with having an oily surface? Yes? Spray lanolin... If not paint it like I did here.
Neck Pain will go away after a couple days. When I ran a Crane in the Union I would get it all the time. Just Muscle soreness.
Itchin for part 2
Working on it lol. Trying to get an after shot with the car mostly reassembled. It will probably drop next week.
It’s awesome you have a lift
i think you also have two options that you can first dip whole chassis into some electrolysis rust removal process which the electron removing the oxygen to anode , or you can use laser rust removal . but both not very suitable for DIY
What if you have a toddler that loves the automatic car wash? I’m afraid to oil our daily driver due to it washing off too fast.
Let the toddler buy a new car then.
Rust need two main things to happen.
1) Oxygen to bare metal.
2) Water as connector to other area with less or more electrons.
If you paint over tine holes in surface and manage to close these holes, no water and no oxygen will contact the metal underneath any more, ergo: no more rust. The rust happens because the protectors surface brakes or cracks. To begin with, with small holes, then bigger and bigger and rust will grow potentially.
What would you use inside the rockers if there's rust?
That solution is coming in part 2.
@@RepairGeek excellent 👌
I think I'm going to do it different. I'll go with the muriatic acid a few times then power wash. Then the phosphorus acid and then par 15.
How about epoxy primer and over that epoxy paint?
Better
Now do one where you grind the entire underside to bare metal then spray it with fluid film only.
20 seconds = 3 hours? Interest concept, Lol. Would sandblasting be a better option in this scenario?
Ideally yes. I would have sand blasted it. I doubt I would have saved any time because my blaster is small. My environment was my main limiting factor for sandblasting Sandblast, treat with acid, primer, and paint.
Question ever use Laser to remove rust
I haven't. I haven't had anyone offer me up one to use. They are crazy expensive as far as I'm aware.
Black undercoat looks nice, but it also hides new rust.
Is your vehicle competing in a Concours d'Elegance
not sure if i missed it, but is that a foxbody mustang?
Same thing, SN95
Can you just dilute phosphoric acid and use that? And what if if you added a gelatine to increase viscosity?
You could but a lot of these preps use a zinc additive to keep the parts from flash rusting as well.