How to PROPERLY Paint Over Rust Part 2 of 2. Applying paint. (Car Rust Repair)
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- Опубліковано 15 чер 2024
- How to PROPERLY Paint Over Rust Part 2 of 2. Applying paint. (Car Rust Repair) In this video I'm going to show you how to apply a rust inhibiting primer and top coat to a car chassis. If you are looking for information on how to repair or prepare the rust for paint check out part 1 of this series: • How to PROPERLY Paint ...
The products that I'm going to be using are from a company called Mastercoat. I am going to be using their rust sealing primer and their AG111 top coat. I go over how to mix, spray, or brush each of the products. This system is much more durable than POR15, KBS, Eastwood, etc. These Mastercoat products are actually used on bridges, and train-cars.
Products and Tools Used in this video:
Mastercoat Rust Sealer, AG111, & Thinner Combo (Best Deal): amzn.to/3ETThRq
Mastercoat Rust Sealing primer: amzn.to/3MyAfTf
Mastercoat AG111 top coat: amzn.to/39hwNxW
Surface Shield (Lanolin): amzn.to/3vfn9ob
Tintable Raptor Liner Kit: amzn.to/3k9lSs6
Paint Spray Gun: amzn.to/36Q21eM
Engine Cleaning Gun: amzn.to/3MyBbXL
Lanolin Undercoating Gun: amzn.to/3MrXDlc
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I source all of my service data from the same place that professional shops do. You can as well: www.pntrac.com/t/SENKSUZKRktD...
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
00:00 Intro
00:04 Check part 1 for the how to on prep!
00:32 Paint selection
5:32 Mixing paint and attributes of this paint
7:13 Tip for masking threaded holes
8:35 Information on spraying this paint (Gun, pressure, thinning, etc.)
9:46 Results after the rust sealer
11:07 Brushing on the rust sealer
12:11 AG111 mixing and application
15:10 Treating internal surfaces with paint
16:29 Treating internal surfaces with cavity paste or lanolin
19:42 Final Results!
#rust #mastercoat #fluidfilm #chassis #chassispaint #bridgepaint
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
Products and Tools Used in this video:
Mastercoat Rust Sealer, AG111, & Thinner Combo (Best Deal): amzn.to/3ETThRq
Mastercoat Rust Sealing primer: amzn.to/3MyAfTf
Mastercoat AG111 top coat: amzn.to/39hwNxW
Surface Shield (Lanolin): amzn.to/3vfn9ob
Tintable Raptor Liner Kit: amzn.to/3k9lSs6
Paint Spray Gun: amzn.to/36Q21eM
Engine Cleaning Gun: amzn.to/3MyBbXL
Lanolin Undercoating Gun: amzn.to/3MrXDlc
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
“How dare you. You stolen my childhood” -Internet troll 1:26
I would think the lanolin would be faster to apply then the ‘paste’. 19:30
Great vid, I thought you had switched to the PB blaster range of lanolin spray??
@@joeboonen7421 i still exclusively use lanolin on a daily driven vehicle. I had people wanting me to explore the paint option. Some people had trailers, old cars, farm equipment, that they wanted to paint.
Thanks for the reply but I more meant that you used surface shield as opposed to the PB blaster lanoline , which in your previous video you said was a better product.
The research, knowledge, and explanation, that you have put into it is mind blowing. Very impressive. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great video! I just got finished watching parts 1 & 2. Working on my 1970 Camaro and doing something similar. Just got a gallon of Ospho in the mail today. You did an awesome job on your mustang!
I don’t think that job could be done any better for an on frame rust prevention system!
Stunning job.
Great video. I’m getting started on a 1979 Toyota Land Cruiser. Talk about rust. This is a whole different animal. This is going to help me so much.
I am doing a frame-off extending for a utility bed of a van. I have been searching for the proper primer and paint, and this video has given me the EXACT knowledge I have needed to accomplish this! Thank you.
was so stoked to see this part of the video. I cant wait to do this myself one day to my 04 forester xt. Thank you for taking the time to teach us everything you do 👍🏻
Fantastic job. Its always suprized me how quickly a new car will start to rust underneath the E coat like yours had.
So much useful information here.
Hey I used Mastercoat years back. A friend of mine new the owner who invented the product before becoming I think the worlds best primer paint. It’s nice that you show how to prepare and apply product. Excellent video
Great info thanks for all the testing you do i really appreciate your thoroughness, your insight has help me find different directions to solve automotive problems. Great job.
Your point on these videos being useful for any metal painting is correct. I'm currently repainting our snow blower and the process is almost the same (different paint). Luckily every part of a snow blower beyond the chassis is easily suspended for painting.
I love Your energy & detail is amazing!
I’ve been using Master series for 20 years is absolutely the best primer hands down!!
Looks Awesome! Well done.
Congratulations, regards from Athens Greece....
This sounds like a good system, Thanks !👍
I did my broncos cowl with the mastercoat products i plan for it to well outlast me. And ive started to use it on my floors and will eventually use it on my frame great stuff
Good preaching!!!! Set 'Em straight on success of various products!!! Folks think because you're different or use a different method for success other than their method, then you're wrong. Folks really / truly need to stop competing over every freaking issue. The world would be a better place if men would simply live peaceably within themselves and stop stoning or throwing rocks at others because they are different!!!
Keep'em coming Bro...
Amazing as usual!
That looks soooooooo good. Dang, nice job Sir
Excellent video. I'm starting a restoration on a 46 Plymouth
Id still be like dude check out the bottom of my car lol
Great job, i was watching your videos on fluid film an surface shield and was wondering if you used mastercoat, then stumbled upon this. Thinking about using it on my frame. Youve got aome great content, everything is thoroughly explained etc.. Subscribed
That primer does look good. We just used Carboline two part epoxy zinc primer on my trucks frame and then a commercial grade two part urethane enamel paint.
Great! Thanks for the thorough video. Our mechanic used the Mastercoat rust sealer in the engine bay of our 77 Westy and it turned out great. I've used it on a few parts and rust spots with great results. I'm about to take on a bigger job of the full nose. Appreciate your videos for helping guide the task, especially with these specific products. Enjoy your ride!
Wow great job 👍👍
Wonderfull JOB,
I give you a thumbs up just for the effort
Looks great
I use a type of epoxy primer for painting boat under water section for my car bottom. Just like you did. It takes a long time to see if it is good or not. Right now it is still holding up. I don't know if it is better than other product, since I never used other product before. It is only car bottom I've painted in my life so far:)
The Silver looked awesome, going to do this to Jeep always at the beach plus NYC salt roads for fake winter here lol.
Today, I wired wheeled my frame and applied some Krud kutter in the cracks and spots that I couldn’t reach with my angle grinder. Results are pretty good I’m very happy (thanks to your channel). Do you recommend painting the bare metal or just coat it with surfaceshield or fluidfilm as is? I live in Canada, Ontario. Super salty over here
Man your job came out super nice 👍🏼 how much do professionals charge for this type of work?
Have You ever used a product called Rust Roy it's a rust converter I used it when I was stationed in the UK back in the mid 80's and I had excellent results with it . The only thing was that I had to use a cheap throw away paint gun that was nonmetallic . Great content Thank You . 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Very thorough and detailed. That is an insane amount of work (you have some serious dedication) when considering videos 1 & 2 combined. I am curious if you have ever considered a more potent undercoating product instead of prep & paint, such as the products made from wax and bitumen. Same concept as treating your crevices and cavities -- you basically smother the bare metal and rust with the product and it halts further rust development (would even do that for minor rust under the old e-coat).
I have a 35-year old car that got Dinitrol 4942 wax/bitumen/aluminized coating applied to the frame and underbody from the factory, and it's still there. I need to touch up an area that got washed off when a fuel line was drained, and sourced a similar modern product. It can be sprayed or brushed on. It flashes to a consistency that feels like sticky solidified bacon grease and stays put, with some self-healing and re-sealing properties if it gets scratched. Only thing that will take it off is mineral spirits or gasoline, or a similar solvent. So it won't wash off from water/etc like lanolin does.
I'd be tempted to use a product like that instead of sanding and treating the rust then painting, since it would save a lot of labor. For sure the paint looks neater, but that wax/bitumen undercoating would have given you decades of protection and the only labor would have been spraying it on. Use the black colored stuff and it even looks pretty nice.
Anyhow, nice job, I've done sanding/treatment/prep/paint on a mower deck and that was enough to kick my butt! Can't imagine doing it for a whole car underbody.
I spoke about what I normally do in part 1. The lanolin that I sprayed on the internal cavities I use on the entire undercarriage. This car I wanted a clean undercarriage. It's the things you don't realize that take all the time. Painting brackets, fasteners, cleaning up plastic etc.
What's the "similar modern product" that you sourced?
@@DanHoopes211 Fertan UBS240. After it flashes off and dries, it's a fairly close visual match for the Dinitrol (which is not available in the USA).
Wow! I now know exactly what to use on the bottom of my car
I am always interested in learning more about a new product...my biggest concern is getting behind the spot welds and sealing that...
once you're done painting... the wool wax or acf50 in there
I’m about to thin down some pot-15 and let it seep into the triple layered seam on a falcon firewall where the fire wall lower plenum and upper plenum are all spot welded together
Then I’ll put it non thinned after that
We’ve just had all these layers separated & blasted once it’s all welded back and finished we’ll do the por
I’d be super curious if you could test out Rust-Oleum Industrial High Performance V2100 System Rust Reformer. That is the only stuff that has worked for me. Never had rust come back through it
This stuff will chip like glass and rust away behind it, would be hell to clean that seal crap off, I’m with you and will clean and hit mine with more paint, If I can see rust I can save it, if it’s hidden you can’t save it
Good work. Any reason why you chose this product over por15? I need to fix some rusted sheet metal by the battery
Have you tried lanolin on a clean steel plate to test the creep rate? Very different to cardboard.
Great video, this is exactly the information i was looking for. I wont even hold it against you that its a mustang lmao😂
Looks fantastic! I enjoy your thorough testing of all these paint and rust products, I take it into consideration before deciding on what to use for my own projects. What would you recommend for an engine paint or other suitable type of high-heat application? I'm in the process of removing rust from an iron block and want to repaint it.
Not sure! That is something that I'm going to have to test!
Have to watch for chips in this because when your block gets hot this will crack and let the block hide rust and same for rock’s flying hitting the bottom of car to expose the frame and body and let your car rust without you seeing it, Best to blow oil on it from your oil change before winter and wash it off in the summer for keeping your rust away from salts.
Great stuff here. Just a quick question though, why do you have the Raptor liner kit listed in your supply list? I don't see you using it.
I used Paint that is sprayed on battleships. The paint is sprayed on but I had to put power to the frame so it will attract the paint. And it went in every crack of the underbody. It been almost 20 years and not one rust spot. Nothing sticks to the paint. My 57 Chevy looks brand new!
Can you recommed other similar paint / activator / primer combos? I live in the UK and can't get hold of Mastercoat which is frustrating as it looks solid!
So happy I found this to protect my e30 from the salt of Hawaii.
Regarding lung saftey, is any of their products you used cyanide based?
What’s the benefit of this system versus a traditional powder coat for a bare frame?
Isn't POR-15 a moisture cure urethane? So is that mastercoat like a hybrid of POR & rustbullet?
Has anyone recommended eastwoods internal frame coating for inside the frame rails and hard to reach places ?
Great video as always, i have better results with marine epoxy primers than raptor liner..
Would rustgrip paint be similar to the mastercoat rust sealer it has 15000 hours salt spray test and is available in australia, your opinion would be great as I know nothing about paint haha.
This turned out great! Will you spray Surface Blaster on it next or is what you have on there enough?
For this car this will be fine. It's always stored indoors and only sees rain a few times a year. I will coat the internal stuff with lanolin every now and then but I wanted a clean chassis on this car.
Trim glad for me
Smart
One of the complaints about POR 15 is that it's brittle and will crack if the surface flexes. Does the Mastercoat stuff have the same issue?
Crazy that stuff sticks to grease
Called a shop to get a media blast and then primer. Will the acrylic primer be good to then spray a lanolin based coat over?
I need your help. I wanna fix some rusty spots on my 98 dodge truck. Is the proper way to do that to 1. remove the rust 2. spray a rust reformer (2 or 3 coats) 3. spray a primer (2 coats) (I have heard some say you need to spray a self etching primer first but im not sure) 4. basecoat(2-3 coats) 5. 2k clearcoat spraymax (2-3 coats). I really want this repair to last and not be a shoddy job. Thank you.
Did you use air dryer on compressor to prohibit moisture from sleeping up the set up
How good is the rust oleum rubber under coating I’m just brushing it in but still want it to look factory clean and not chalky or tacky
I used raptor liner as a chip guard on a friend's lifted F250 lasted 2 years last I checked
The Raptor probably isn't as durable as the AG111 but I liked the textured look of it. I really doubt I will have any problems with the Raptor. The car doesn't get driven enough to get any real wear and tear.
I saw another video where you wire brushed a vehicle and then sprayed the underneath with a lanolin undercoating.
So is this painting process instead of using a lanolin undercoating?
What seam sealer did you use? Thanks
Great video. Can you tell me were you got the break kit from with the cobra breaks that you mentioned in the video?
All the details on my updated brakes are in this video: ua-cam.com/video/U_yyoMNuG8U/v-deo.html
What's up man! Awesome videos. Have you switched back to wool wax from surface shield?
Which do you prefer most?
Nope, still primarily using SS. I keep Fluid Film, Woolwax and Surface Shield all on hand.
@@RepairGeek nice! Thanks
Is there anyway I can get my hands on the mastercoat paint in australia?
Yo repair geek, I’m getting ready to do this exact process on my car , as far as product goes I cannot find this master coat product ANYWHERE the website says they are sold out and no where else seems to have any, do you have any other more common or common products that has this same 3 stages and same type of paint
I have only one product avilable in my country for anti-graffiti and it says oily stuff will easily come off from it.
Does it mean wax will not stick?
19:55 Slick 👍
oh my gosh......eff.....no car lift and no real desire to go this intense. BUT seeing how this is the best way to protect is for atleast I know purposes. Would love to see how you find Durabak as the rubberized coating works.
Have you used the Mastercoat paint before on other vehicles? Curious how it holds up and if it has similar issues to POR15 with peeling and cracking and letting moisture under the paint and accelerating rust. I am considering using this on my vehicle frame, not planning on taking any of the body off. Vehicle is a Chevy Express 4500 Cutaway. Would like to see a video of you testing this coating like you did with KBS, POR15, etc.
This was the first time that I had used the Mastercoat products. I called Mastercoat and they suggested that I apply the bedliner or any other top coat once the primer gets tacky. By spraying topcoat when the primer is somewhat wet lets the solvents in the 2 products mix a little and gives a great bond. What swayed me towards this product was the fact that it's used by municipalities. You won't find any bridge painted with POR or KBS. I heavily researched this product over an afternoon. I have yet to find a single person (who has actually used it) that says this stuff is crap, even reading online reviews. Some people may have products that they prefer over this stuff but I haven't found anyone that flat out says it's garbage. You can't say that about POR or KBS.
I found out about the Mastercoat products because a viewer watched that KBS, POR15 video that you're speaking of. I may do some more work with paints because people seem interested in it.
@@RepairGeek I can't find a single bad review out there about it. Seems like good stuff.
Have you looked into coal tar epoxy used to paint ships or other marine epoxy paints like PPG PSX 700 ? Which I think is currently used by the navy and other military ships, also bridges, airports, NASA. Wondering if you know anything about them or if it's a bad idea to use for some reason?
Checked it out. B117 salt spray data shows that PPG PSX 700 lasting 5500 hours. This Mastercoat paint does 14,000 and it's about 1/2 the cost. I'm not saying the PPG is bad paint. It's much better than POR or KBS for corrosion resistance. Would you have great results using the PPG probably, but I did also using the Mastercoat.
@@RepairGeek You really did your research, definitely going to go with Mastercoat, thanks. Your videos have been helpful.
Do you have your own mechanic business?
Do you have a method of repairing holes up to quarter size that will play nice with the painting system you used. I’m doing the floor of a 95 Landcruiser that rusted from the inside of the vehicle out. The cab had a leak and I found the carped was wet when I bought it. Now I have to close a couple of quarter size holes and several little pin holes. I have fixed the original cause of the water intrusion.
There isn't much you can do about holes other than weld in new metal and use this paint on top of that.
Very impressive. Do you know if that primer can go over existing primer?
I'm sure you could but you really want the Mastercoat as the base layer. The high amount of aluminum is what keeps the rust from spreading.
@@RepairGeek understood. I talked to Pat this morning at Mastercoat. He said the same thing. I already primed the bottom of a 66 mustang with Raptor liner primer to prep for body color Raptor. Probably just keep it as is then. Thanks for the response.
Im from Germany and I can’t get any of the stuff that you did use. Does anyone have good recommendations?
Hi Does anyone know if you can buy Mastercoat in the uk. Have looked but can not see anything? Or if anyone in the uk has any i could buy. 🤞
Im not quite at the point of taking my mustang apart like that . How do you feel about wire brush on a drill then using surface sheild after ?
That will work great for rust protection as long as you keep re-coating yearly. It won't look as nice but as long as you maintain it yearly, the car wont rust any further.
How’s the flexibility and chipping of the primer and ag111 ?
Seems to be very flexible and ive had no chipping with it.
Did that mastercoat silver have a rough texture to it after you sprayed it smooth ?
No the topcoat had the texture. The mastercoat laid down like any automotive paint.
Do you think using the raptor liner the tintable mix it with black ag111 just give some color because the tintable raptor is clearish you think that using that together like that would make any kinda difference? It’s awesome to see that you used it in combination with ag111 I’m gonna get some ag111 when I build my truck! And do this
Also what did you do for the inner frame rails if anything?
Well you answered my question haha
Are you going to surface shield or wool wax (Landoline) it seasonal? Too or are you confident in the ability of what you did to not worry about it! Honestly your doing the hot rodder and resto truck builders work man to know products work when you take the time to use them means a lot of work and hours wasted on somthing that doesn’t work I applaud you I will be using your method in the future!
Is there another Thinner I can use with Mastercoats products.
They dont have it in there stock and I need to spraypaint now.
Pls. help!
Call Mastercoat.
Quick question after you use the bridge primer underneath the car you said you could of used the ag111 but you used the raptor liner instead. Can you used both of them that's my question. Could you used ag111 then the raptor liner to have both protection top coat?
I could have used the bridge primer then the Raptor then a clear version of AG111. I'm in the middle of doing some corrosion testing with some paints. The bridge primer + Raptor is holding up just as well as the, bridge primer + Raptor + Clear AG111. I'm at 1200 hours currently. Video in the fall.
@RepairGeek is there another update of this project?
Feeling overwhelmed.
Wondering what would be best/simple if I have a a rusty truck that I don't plan on taking the cab off and want to get the frame and underneath as good as I can
Thinking
1. Getting loose rust off with grinder
2. Using rustoelum rust dissolver
3. But then not sure what's a simple rattle can option to to spray as a primer/rust inhibitor
4. Then just any black paint to finish it? 5.Would a clear coat on top be a good idea?
Anyone?
@@patrickswayyze what kind of truck is this? daily driver?
@@RepairGeek it's an old truck ill drive in the summer, I'm trying to restore it best I can
@@patrickswayyze Do what I did in part 1 and part 2 of this series and the will work for you. If you want to paint over rust, what I'm showing you in this series is what you will want to do. Strip as much rust as possible, treat any leftover rust with phosphoric acid, and paint it with a paint of your choosing.
If you just want to stop rust but don't care what the bottom of the truck looks like use a lanolin undercoating. Much less labor but needs yearly reapplications for best results.
Is thzt a fox chassis Mustang or SN95? Either way , awesome.
SN
@@RepairGeek Cool. The gas tank gave it away. Looks just like mine in Fox. I also want to do the same paint over rust and Raptor liner on the bottom of the cab of my truck, 83 F100 . but first i need to remove it from the frame . hopefully this summer. And the frame after sand blasting all the rust off of it. Just like OH , Much salt in MI.
That isn't a Foxbody Stang from looking at the underside....looks like a SN.I've had numerous Foxes over the years,1st was a '83 GL 5.0 5spd notch in '87 when I was 16,'93 LX notch,'89 LX notch 5 spd,'83 Capri C4 auto,and still have a '89 LX N/A 480hp 347,5spd,3.73's.An Ex also had a '92 LX 5spd (actually I have a short vid of it on YT when I had to change out the poly locs on the rocker arms) and we'd take them to shows almost every weekend.Hers had a 10-12k paint job with same body color on the underside and took hers to the '14 Ford Carlisle where she got 2nd.
I'd just left the bridge primer or painted over it with paint instead of the Raptor it looked a lot better.I think using Raptor or equiv. makes it look generic.A lot of people are using it and a lot of them go to shows and at the shows where the participants do the judging I take points off for that sort of coating as most just use it to cover up bad patches,rust,etc.
I wish their was a higher nickel content in steel option for buyers in the rust belt...
I got a little lost. Did you do 3 coats of primer on the bottom and then use Mastercoat AG111 or did you put something else after the primer--- the coat you said you mixed the cars body color into?
3 coats of the silver rust sealer.
Topped the silver on the chassis with color matched raptor liner because I liked the texture.
The axle got silver and then the AG111 top coat because I wanted the axle to be black.
@@RepairGeek could it be possible to do the primer, then ag111 and then add the raptor on top? Awesome series of vids I learned a lot!
How can I order Mastercoat stuff to europe?
mastercoat says there inner frame rust inhibitor can be thinned out Aswell. i feel like it would make it creep more. maybe im wrong. could you get back to us on that?
You can thin it with mineral spirits. It will run down hill until the mineral sprites evaporates off. It's not going to go uphill with mineral sprites. I had literally 15 gallons of lanolin products in my garage. It frankly wasn't worth my time screwing around with some concoction of cavity paste and mineral sprites when I have 3 5 gallon buckets of products that will do EXACTLY what I need them to do.
@@RepairGeek thank you
This guy is fuckin’ great
How many hours labour went into the whole process?
40-60 easily
Won't the grease you put in the bolt holes mess up the torque settings and risk overtorquing? I agree that tape is a pain so I've been inserting small bits of shop towels twisted into a wad with enough sticking out to make removal after painting easy.
The consequences of over torquing a fuel tank strap and transmission mount are non existent. What issue would an over torqued transmission mount cause? If grease causes you to over torque something so badly that you break the bolts off, perhaps auto repair isn't your strong point.
@@RepairGeek Last year I rebuilt a manual transmission, did a full TB/WP job, rebuilt all 4 calipers & strut assemblies and am now completing a full rear end overhaul job, including opening up and taking apart the diff. So I'm good there. I just like to do things by the book since I'm not a pro and haven't developed enough "feel" to be confident in my work. No harm in using a torque wrench, and grease totally messes up the readings.
Plus, the issue isn't just snapping the bolt or nut during reinstallation, but while on the road at highway speeds. Overtorqueing doesn't necessarily result in immediate failure, but it sets a fastener to be more likely to fail, like trans mounts that absorb vibration. Anyway, I was just saying that if you do this and like to use a torque wrench, you won't get proper readings, and I still prefer the twisted shop towel piece method.
Grease will not mess up torque on a bolt. I do a ton of work on bicycles. They are ultra sensitive to torque and all bolts/nuts MUST be greased when assembling. Will not cause a properly torqued bolt to fall out, but it will allow you to remove it when you want to.
@@DanHoopes211 I'm not a bike mech but I've maintained and repaired my bikes over the years and built one up from parts some years ago, so I know a LITTLE bit about it. And have read up a lot on both. Certainly enough to know that while there are some similarities between it and car maintenance and repair, the two are simply too different to be very comparable.
For one thing, car fasteners are generally torqued to much higher values than bike fasteners, with some notable exceptions like cranks and cassettes (the latter being self-torquing in most cases). Where on a car is there a critical fastener torqued to say 5-10 ft-lbs? And where on a bike is there one torque to say 50-100 ft-lbs? And car fasteners are subjected to stresses that bike ones generally are not, like vibration, primary and nth order, heat, cold, temp cycling, fluid spills, g-forces, dynamic and static weight, etc.
Plus, even on bikes, you generally don't apply grease to fasteners. On some, especially titanium ones, you use anti-seize. On others you use threadlocker. And on some, yes, grease would be ok.
But in no case does grease or anti-seize not affect torque readings. Not sure where you got the idea that it doesn't, but it does. Perhaps not always to the extent where it matters, but a basic understanding of friction and lubricants explains how this is so, which you can easily find online in various grease, lubricant and anti-seize, and fasterner makers' web sites and other how-to sites.
I get it, you're in the "I have a lot of experience and know what I'm doing so I don't need to worry about torque and friction and can do it by feel" camp. Which is fine if that works for you, not so fine if it doesn't and you experience catastrophic failure doing 20+ on the road. Just ask anyone who's had a carbon fiber fork tube fail due to fractures caused by overtorquing the stem bolts due to greased bolts. Or control arm or knuckle bolts snap due to overtorquing due to greased bolts.
Note that I'm NOT saying to never apply a friction modifier to fasteners, be it anti-seize, threadlock or grease, just to realize that it WILL affect the torque reading and to adjust the applied torque accordingly.
It’s been a year since you’ve done the treatment. Could you show how the paint is holding up now?
It looks literally the same. About 7000 miles later, nothing has chipped, nothing has flaked. There is nothing worth shooting a video on. This car only sees rain a few times a year. I never sees salt or any winter driving.
Anyone have a source of this in stock?
None of these products available at the moment. Do you recommend any other products?
They're right here:
Mastercoat Rust Sealing primer: amzn.to/3MyAfTf
Mastercoat AG111 top coat: amzn.to/39hwNxW
@@RepairGeek still the same thing. Click on link,comes up unavailable. Might be because I'm overseas.
Yep that's why.
@@kevinanderson8939 did you click "see all buying options" some things on Amazon look like they aren't available or for sale until you click that
If the material has aluminum I thought aluminum and metal don't do good together?
Is that a Ford 8.8?
Yep.
Got any used vehicles for sale that dang northern road salt tears vehicles out this way :P
What is the make of your car?
2001 Mustang
There is debate about whether grease on threads will change the torque. And allow them to back out..
I’ve read many directions as an aircraft mechanic that said threads have to be dry.
Now, I do imagine, grease on the threads of a car will prevent bolts rusting in.
I’d probably tape up wheel lug holes…
Well, I've driven this car over 6,000 miles for a cross country road trip and did a track day on the same trip. ua-cam.com/video/2hC25L3evyo/v-deo.html
I can confidently say that a little bit of grease hasn't caused my transmission or fuel tank to fall out...
@@RepairGeek surely. Regardless, the debate exists on the level of physics. Hence why an A&P is liable for any failure if they grease threads that are not directed to be by the manufacture (none ever are except those meant to be anti-seized). Of course, the actions of an A&P matter quite a bit more than those of any vehicle mechanic.