More Rust Removal Secrets
Вставка
- Опубліковано 31 тра 2022
- www.proshaper.com
Naval Jelly:
amzn.to/3vi9D5E
Muriatic Acid:
amzn.to/3visUUq
More Rust Removal Secrets
We're back. Wray has been providing little snippets of the things going on in the shop. Now that we have some time, we are making videos again. I had pulled out a fender that had some serious rust and Wray in his infinite wisdom decided to make a comparison video using Muriatic Acid, Naval Jelly and Phosphoric acid and see which works the fastest.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
Website: www.proshaper.com
Facebook: / proshaper
Instagram: / proshaper
Twitter: / proshaperm
Linkedin: / pros. .
If you're looking to purchase Naval Jelly or Muriatic Acid consider using our affiliate link below. Thanks for your support!
Naval Jelly:
amzn.to/3tStaIR
Muriatic Acid:
amzn.to/3S8cIhW
Muriatic acid called hydrochloric acid will attack the base metal if left long enough. It is recommended to wear solid rubber gloves and eye protection. Diluting the acid may involve using gas resperator as it fumes chlorine gas .I'm an Industrial chemist.
So fantastic and humbling to see people still taking trades work so seriously and learning and proving their skills. We need more of this in the world .
Glad you mentioned the baking soda. It makes a.big difference followed by quick drying. Good video thank you
Thanks for the tips , I've used Ospho for years but you changed the way I will do things , thanks so much
I restore old VWs and loved the piece about that young man's little vw project, I would sure love to have that
Happy to have found you. Just looking to remove bits of rust from a metal railing around my porch so I can paint it. Now I know more about products and application. I'm fascinated with your work. Thank you.
I had a jug of muriatic acid that I had just opened to do a project with inside of my garage. It was a beautiful 1930 Model A two door sedan with great paint and really no body work necessary. I got called away for an emergency that took me out of town for a couple of days. I had pushed the jug beneath a bench to keep it away from any child or such knocking it over, but I totally forgot to check the cap to the jug. When I returned home a few days later, the smell inside the garage was awful and virtually anything not painted on that car was rusted completely. Things on the dash, the underbelly and anywhere at all you could imagine. Boy, did I ever cry when that happened. It was one expensive mistake, so if you use muriatic acid, be sure to seal it tightly as it will get into the atmosphere as you said, and you will not believe the damage it can do to everything on the car, but inside the garage where anything of metal will be attacked, as well. Our water heater was out in the garage, and it too took a hit on metal parts due to my ignorance at that time. Be overly cautious in using it is just not enough of a warning once you flub up as I did with the stuff. ;-(
I'm sorry to hear about your horribly costly lesson. I first realized the potential for atmospheric encroachment when I rescued a Craftsman locking metal paint/solvent locker. The area where there were 3 gallons of muriatic acid has been fully stripped of it's paint
Live and learn. Thanks for sharing the story so the rest of us don't have to experience what you did.
Thank you for sharing your dreadful experience. I had no idea that could happen.
OUCH😂!
it removes rust as a liquid but as a vapor it causes rust?
Thanks for showing the comparison of how the different products work.
Just a pro tip... I use those pad you put on the floor for aminal mistakes, they are cotton backed with plastic... you soak the pad and it forms to the shape of the metal you are working on, the plastic keeps it wet....works great, almost like it was made for it
Basically a dog pee pad! That’s genius!
They are also available in bulk at warehouses like Sams, Costco. You’re looking for adult bed liners. We used them for the puppy. Smaller amounts I’ve been told dollar general has some reasonable. I believe they are no scent dog pee pads at dollar general.
Thanks so much. I'm going to use puppy pads on my car.
Great job
Thank you for sharing your knowledge what a talent. This is becoming a lost art. Keep up the great content.
Great video as always. I plan to attend one of your classes as I'm restoring a 84 Caprice Coupe. With a wife and kids it's hard to find the time! Keep the great videos coming! Raynham, Ma.
Thanks for another great video Wray. The work you do is just amazing.Simon.
Many thanks
Wowser, that is the sound of my mind exploding. Rust 911 is the sheet alright. Nicely done, I am thrilled that I found your channel. I look forward to watching many more episodes in my spare time. Great work.
TY so much for creating and sharing your knowledge and experience.
I bought a case of Naval Jelly on your recommendation and it amazes me. I’ll be working on paint stripping one area and have Naval Jelly working on the rust in another and after the second application I look over and the rust is gone.
Excellent video thanks Wray.
Glad Mark is back. Thanks Wray!
Thanks for showing us the Caddy Wray that is going to be a nice ride for sure
What an amazing video - congratulations to you and your shop of perseverance - a dedication to rust and form.
Very good video. I learned a lot . Thank You, Ronnie.
I am so fascinated by this. It's transformational.
Great stuff! As a silversmith I call muriatic acid (hydrochloric) a cold pickle for copper alloys and it removes steel mill scale from hot rolled.
Thanks for the knowledge!
I learned a lot. Thank you!
I think you've triggered a flashback... I agreed to paint a friends '67 E-Type. He was so very proud of having already stripped it with paint remover (destroying all of the rubber in the process) and putting it under a cover, outside, a couple of years prior. Many gallons of muriatic later, with lots of elbow grease, we had a finish that took best in show in Phoenix.
I grew up in Mesa, you wouldn’t believe what road salt does to cars in the Northeast! Criminal 😮
I like that phospheric leaves a coating so you don't get instant flash rusting, but muriatic is often way quicker but you just need to remember to neutralize it and wash it off and oil the part.
Muriatic Acid comes in different strengths. I like the 31.45% HASA from the local Pool Supplier. Must to do out doors and stay up-wind. A simple cheap paint brush is all you need. No need for abrasives or rubbing at all. Just brush it on, keep it wet and in 5 mins the rust will disappear before your eyes. Brand new metal to be had. Speaking of eyes, goggles a must! Couldn't imagine getting that in the eye.
You MUST neutralize the acid. Prep a sprayer with Baking Soda and water and spray the acid. Muriatic acid reacts with baking soda to form table salt (NaCl), carbon dioxide gas (CO2), and water (H2O). It appears as a foam. After neutralizing hose it all off and dry quickly to prevent flash rusting, It's fast and easy. I just did an entire front-clip. Great results.
Many thanks, Sir , for detailed information ❤❤❤❤❤❤
You are absolutely correct about media blasters and the damage they can do. You are spot on with the "cover the area with plastic for extending the acting properties of the chemicals for stripping, as you are with safety (running water, gloves, etc.). Perhaps you are my lost younger brother...we think alike in many ways, although I am retired. It is fun and rewarding to watch your videos and your sincere intent on passing artist-craftsman values to others.
@ R J
RJ what about the ones that use water added. ‘Wet Blasting’ to keep everything Cool? Do they work good?
@@PhillipHall01 Wet blasting uses media, also--one needs to add a chemical to prohibit flash rusting of the surfaces. Plus, with water the media and residue resulting from blasting flows where? Yep, that river of left over stuff, especially on the inside areas flows to places where it will gather, dry out and form a cake like reality: How do you get rid of that waste? As to warping, the key here is what is called "dwell time" which means how long the blasting stream remains over an area, the longer it stays in one spot the more heat it will create...warping will occur. Next up: Dry Ice blasting...
@@RJ-nh9hw NEVER sandblast sheet metal, good gravy people! Chemical dipping is an excellent way, but the item has to be totally disassembled. First they remove the paint, then dip in a second vat for rust removal. Plastic Media Blasting is another excellent choice; low pressure blasting of various types of plastic chips. No warping or abrading of the metal. If a spot of heavy rust remains you simply treat that area with other means.
U
nO HES NOT, HE EVEN CONFUNDES RUST CONVERTER WITH RUST REMOVER.
you wann fuck up your steel keep puting muriatic acid or vinager on it.
greatings fromrussia.
What great work all around... very informative,
I just discovered you, thanks for being here and making this! I miss Click and Clack and your voice reminds me of them. Thanks for bringing back those memories, you have a new subscriber.
Great video! I am thankful for artists keeping the techniques alive! Thank you for teaching the next generation!
Beware of a lot of these so called “teachers”. Many are using young ambitious kids for free labor acting as if they are providing them a place to learn, but really their using them to take the car and flip it for money. Seen several videos of these guys acting as if their doing it for the right reasons, but IMO their not. Some may have good intentions, but when they flip the car and make $5000+ are they calling these kids up and writing them a check- nope! See you next week to work on another one of my projects. Careful…
Reminds me of one December back in the 1970's when me and my friend paid some younger kids 25 cents an hour to go door-to-door selling mistletoe. The kids had fun and we kept all of the proceeds!
Excellent video and info, GOD bless.
Awesome information I have only just found your chanle, those car's your building are looking good,all the best to you and your loved ones
brilliant video as always
Great Video! Thanks for the safety tips when using acid to remove rust!
Oh don't go on about your beautiful, perfect weather up there in beautiful Massachusetts! I'm down here in steamy Hotlanta, changing into my air-conditioned scuba gear so I can walk/swim out to check the mailbox. 😂 It's so hot and humid here, everything wants to either rot or rust away. Last night I dropped a pencil on the back porch. I figured I'd retrieve it in the morning once it's light outside. But this morning all I could find is a handful of compost with a pencil lead sticking out of it. We don't need doors on cars and buildings here, just need 'ports' to pour ourselves into.
Have a great day up there Buddy! Keep up the great work. Love your tips and tricks, and Jason's vw (notice the lower case 😆)
Thank you for posting your content. Seeing these projects is inspiring, and often has me questioning my impulse to make carbon composite parts (a well formed sheet of aluminum is so much lighter).
Great information thank you.👍
Wonderful initiative to train the next generation, all the best.
Great vid, really informative, I think you must be the rust King!!
I used Rust 911 to derust the water jackets on a couple Ford Flathead blocks. Capped off the water pump and set the deck up level one bank at a time. Let it soak about 48 hours and flushed it out. Did an amazing job! Got the idea from your videos.
Awesome to read you used Rust 911 and found out how great it works!
To neutralize acid, you've got to use a base. Baking soda is a base, but Amonium Hydroxide is much better (fancy name for Ammonia and water). Rinse, dry, and coat with a water displacer (WD-40 or equivalent).
Also, muriatic is cheaper if you skip the paint department, and go to the swimming pool care section of the hardware store. Muriatic also cleans concrete, but be careful.
if you use vinegar you don't need to neutralize it, because it evaporates. just blow dry it away.
That sprinkler method is really slick. I like it
I've been working on my 66 Barracuda, thank you I' learned some stuff here :) Been dreading the idea of getting the rust out of the inside of the car, that would be perfect. I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the project, I think the Rust911 will help a lot. I didn't want to just leave it but also baller on a budget :D
Phosphoric acid is my go to. I use 80 or 90% i cant remember but i prefer it because it leaves a protective film on the steel.
that Rust 911 is some nice stuff! I'll have to try it on my '71 Plymouth Fury I'm restoring
Thank uou sir, looking forward on my 37 Dodge Coupe floor, foot rest panel etc.
It's nice to see a comparison of rust removers.
Jason's killing it on the beetle. Talented guy 👍
He is very very patient and he sticks with it until it is completed.
50/50 molasses and water soak works great too. You lose no metal. Love your video! Thanks for all you teach!
Yes, but it's slow. The best if you have the parts removed and have a large container to soak the parts.
Yes you are correct, I know a fellow who had a swimming full with molasses, he dips whole car chassis for a week.
vinegar is cheaper, faster, doesn't attack bare steel either and leaves zero residue to wash off.
@@creepyloner1979Vinegar caused rusting on bare steel for me. POR15 rust remover worked well for me and requires 20 minutes.
thats soo ridiculous and i love it @@emanuelmifsud6754
Muriatic acid is really dangerous to the skin, lungs, and any exposed metal, but it's also really fast and really cheap.The baking soda immediately after muriatic acid exposure is a must, because flash rust will happen very quickly, otherwise.
Bonjour, je regarde souvent vos vidéos et je trouve que vous faite du très beaux travail.
Je vous remercie de partager vos connaissances avec nous.
Awesome info really appreciate it
I can't even tell you how grateful I am this is such an amazing video thank you so very much you are an amazing individual with awesome Talent God bless you you are a godsend
Make sure you check out my other videos, I have 288 total.
Great video. Thanks for sharing this. God Bless.
Stumbled on your channel, I have been looking for this type of rust removal, what's the ratio on the baking soda and water? How do you neutralize the acid, thanks, great video.
I'm close.to you, here in Hampton , NH ,I've done a woodcarving of Benoit Musy driving a Maserati 300S , fantastic curves to carve!
interesting shop, thank you
Thanks Wray
I'd so love to come to your shop classes
some good info. thanks
The VW looks great!🤗
Hi Wray, John from Oz here. Molasses dips work great too. They just take a fortnight or so. Very environmental in that you can tip the tank on the lawn when finished with it!
@A. Melbs When I've thought about this I've priced molasses from feed shops / country store type places. Anything farm related. I've not tried it yet, but you might want to consider adding some EDTA (additional rust chealtor) to the mix and some anti-fungal anti-bacterial agents. From what I've seen the stuff gets to stinking generating a biological surface fairly quickly. But it does work.
@A. Melbs I think the cheap stuff. Tractor supply has "feed grade" molasses for about $10 per gallon. I'm guessing it's similar elsewhere for animal grade stuff. Rre additives to cut down on *growth*... you might need to experiment - starting small. I'm just guessing. I assume whatever you use shouldn't' change PH much though.
@@ferrariguy8278 actually I get my molasses from a feed shop (apparently they mix it with horse feed). Use por 15’s metal prep after. Gives a nice brassy looking finish.
Theres a video where an ausi guy did it in a kids swimming pool , a 10 parts water 1 molasses , let the whole fender sit in there for weeks , best i remember and when he pulled it out he rinsed the rust off with a garden hose , it looked like a new fender , even where the rusted holes were before the fender went in the pool were totally rust free . the molasses eats the rust only ! Not the good steel . its on youtube
@@garyhall2583 i have used mollasses also on A model ford panels and even the chassis. Works great. For heavy rust remove every few days and scrub with a nylon brush .
There are also auto dippers which can dip frames and full bodies. I've used them several times and is a great way to do a full restoration. Great video.
There was a dipper in my town that my grandfather used back in the late 1960s. The local dipper went out of business around 10 years ago. I have had many cars dipped.
@@proshaper I’m sure he had regular hassles with the enviro goon squads . Those type businesses have been targeted by those Fed state and local agencies since the 90s. If you have an old shop it’s just not worth the price to get it into compliance which is what they are counting on to begin with.
@@drizlerindeed. Auto body paint shops are also getting the government colonoscopy. The “Green” Trojan horse enables malevolent government actors to steal freedom.
Bloody awesome!
Muriatic Acid is also used to clean mortar from; brick, block, rock, tile, etc. One can neutralize the affects of the acid by using, a Baking Soda mix in water, or even just sprinkle the baking soda over the area or acid.
If you use muriatic the warmer it is the better it works. I made pizza steel using HDX from home depot and a plastic tote. It will remove mill scale from plate steel quick. If you circulate the fluid it takes less time.
White vinegar is better.
Nice. I wasn't aware of muriatic acid for rust removal but I've played with lots of other methods.
I see you're also having trouble with those ZEP sprayers. They just don't last long, even with water.
I hear you on the Zep Sprayers. I should return a dozen of them to Home Depot.
I have a bunch of older ZEP sprayers that are working great still. Maybe they are like everything else now and being made cheaper, as the company tries to live off its old reputation.
I have found no sprayer that will hold up to Castrol's Super Clean for long.
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Some real FABULOUS FAB WRK HERE!!
I have tried the rust 911 and it is great. I got the rust off of a set of VW bus rims and small parts before I ran out. Going to get more to do other parts and another set of rims.
Question: what prep work is needed to paint after Rust 911 use?
I flush with water and then dry the part fast. I use the heat from my rosebud torch to quickly dry, then primer.
Thanks for the good video.
Very interesting video !!!!!!!!
Hi Wray, what attachment are you using between the spindle and the shrinking disc backing plate on your makita? Bending the radius and dent repair video
It is a central hub support. They usually come with your grinder. They are sold as accessories by most grinder companies. Usually they are a heavy steel stamping, the hub support stabilizes the backing pad and disc.
Love watching your videos. Originally from Worcester, I now reside in NV.
Trying to restore a 63 Corvair convertible, do you have any instructions for making beltline trim?
Saw a unrestored 4dr one of those at the supermarket the other day. Good looking cars.
Dry Ice blasting also can work wonders if you have a shop near you that can do it.
I have Muriatic acid. That’s great to know that it works great for rust. I just need to make sure to stray my item down with a baking soda solution and then wash it all alway maybe with soap and water…? It would’ve been great for you to spend some more time on that part. But I’ll look into it further thanks!
Gee wray the rust removal on the Caddy did an amazing job compared to when you started, that process works a treat great work mate.
Most people have no clue this is possible but it works beyond your expectations. One of my students from about 15 years ago told me about Rust 911. He totally de-rusted his Volvo using the same method.
@@proshaper Does it pay to water blast the underside and get all road dirt and oil off first?
Hi Wray . I seen the cadi video when you first posted it , I’m in Australia and can’t seem to get rust 911 here , they won’t send it and can’t get it from your Amazon store either so what next well molasses , first I soaked some parts .. amazing results in 2 weeks, then proceeded to do a car exactly the same as you did on my hoist but with molasses, got really good results ,heavily rusted sections get attacked tho and you start to loose the panel information so I’ve stopped for now the smell is bit awful but you can live with it , molasses also attacks alloy pretty much dissolves it. Also permatex do a very similar product to the navel jelly called rust dissolver and it works great . Tried this cause importing navel jelly isn’t that cost effective. Anyway if there is some way I can buy a box of rust 11 and get it sent here I’m in. Another note with molasses is you need put phosphoric acid 10.1 mix over the metal ASAP when dried as it flash fairly quickly , molasses isn’t that quick either takes time to work 6 weeks to do my front end
Question does the rust 911 solution evaporate quickly when you were using open to the atmosphere, molasses needs a lot attention, when the reaction starts in the sprinkler setup it seems to use a lot of solution but not when you use it in a drum and as a soaking solution . Molasses is really cheap tho
Thanks for the tips too
What would put on it to stop the rust from coming back, without painting it right away? Thanks for the great information 👍
I have a Beetle that I am removing the paint from it. I used Citristrip to remove the paint, once paint is removed I used Ospho which is phosporic acid and it prevent a bare metal to rust if left unpainted for a good few months.
I can't wait to see your videos
Vinegar much cheaper and water and baking soda to naturalized the acid in the vinegar some reduce the vinegar but I like it full strength.
Great mention regarding any damage to project material! A bit difficult to observe without a ballsy camera operator!
Excellent demonstration! I remember ruining parts I left in Navel Jelly. So it gets rinsed off soon. Do you actually have to wait that long between applications of 9-11?
I love the fact that your teaching the next generation i guess you can say thats one of the reasons im teaching myself about cars because ablot of general contractors dont teach a lot of the time because they feel someone will steal their job and when someone is willing it slows down the job a lil bit but then bosses snap
Thank you! I'm waiting for new videos.
man am i glad i clicked on this video, i've only got 1/2 gal of prep and etch left only the label had come off the bottle a long time ago and i couldn't remember the name of the stuff, now i just hope i can still get it here in the people's republic of california ..... thanks
I noticed you using steel wool what grade is it? and is there any other scrubbing materials (Have the scotch bight)?
Off to try some Rust911 on my Project 1962 C10 truck! Thanks!
Have you ever tried citric acid? Granules mixed with water...soak submerged. Works great.
I think it's interesting how acids are categorized as corrosives yet they remove the corrosion. However I've seen muriatic acid remove rust and if left for too long will simply dissolve the steel away. Of course there is also soda blasting.
@Dave B > You are going to watch the "Muriatic Acid" as even though it is diluted in the bottle, you can not apply it and forget. Leave it on long enough to do the job then clean and neutralize with a base like backing soda & water. Make a loose paste and rub it in. Mistakes can happen and I am sorry your part was damaged. This is a strong acid even when reduced out of the bottle. All precautions of PPE should be observed and if possible use outdoors. Just be careful, read labels and use precaution.
DK, Retired ASE Master 1978.
@@deankay4434 Actually I just saw a guy on UA-cam experimenting with long soaks in acid and he ended up with no part.. For me I have tried pool acid and it literally had no effect. I had an old axe head pretty rusty soaked it overnight in the pool acid and it seemed to do nothing. Not sure why. Thanks.
@@blackbirdpie217 Well as to the You Tube guy you mentioned, at least he got rid of the rust! lol
Hi. I'm an Industial Chemist and can help you understand something. Corrosive does not just mean to corrode or rust. Chemicals are corrosive as they react with other chemicals and change each other.. So corrosiveness is a characteristic of material that tells us how reactive to other substance it is. I would not use muratic acid called hydrochloric sci as there are cheaper simpler easier alternatives. Inhaling chlorine gas from hydrochloric acid is asking for death as the gas will dissolve your lungs. Use white vinegar
@@emanuelmifsud6754vinegar just created more rust on a blasted bicycle frame. It made things worse for my project.
Awesome!
Wow your apprentices did some nice work.
Make it custom put me onto you Wray , love the channel , I feel some binge watching catch up coming ,cheers
Welcome aboard!
I’ve use Ospho in the glass gal jug, now plastic for over 50 years on oilfield equipment, holds the paint on.
Great Video. So I am a little confused. If I apply Ospho on metal and let it dry, will that causes metal to rush or prevent it from rusting for a while?
I have heard once you take the paint off and get to the bare metal, you can apply Ospho and it will prevent if from rusting for a while.
Also, does the fume from Ospho causes everything to tart rusting in the garage or that is not the nature of Phosphoric acid?
I was thinking about doing the Rust 911 process for the undercarriage but using an inflatable pool instead. Drive the car on top, inflate the pool and now its all self contained.
Cool. That rust 911 is impressive. Spraying this car would cost a little more then a sand blaster but in the long run much cheaper this way. Very cool idea
Very nice vídeo.
Once the rust is off is there anything else that needs to be done before primer is sprayed on?
Beautiful., it's amazing art 🎃
I restore old rusty tools using 'cleaning vinegar'. I just leave them covered in a plastic container for a few days and then wash off the crusted rust that floats to the surface and then wash off this black film that forms on the tools with soapy water, and then either paint them or oil them. Works well and is really cheap.
I'm not sure how well it would work on cars unless you had a vat or something.
I have done the same.