Products that I used in this video: Paints: - KBS: amzn.to/3EcalQA - Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mowBk8 - Raptor Liner: amzn.to/3pgY2hB - POR15: amzn.to/3JcO9JF - Eastwood Platinum: amzn.to/3JbskKq - Chassis Saver: amzn.to/3FiU4uD - VHT Chassis Paint: amzn.to/33EvQwI Preps: -Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3yVaaIj -KBS: amzn.to/3Jcp9SM -Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mo4Act -Raptor Acid Etch Primer: amzn.to/3qeKrXm -POR15: amzn.to/3Ev8gzv My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Great videos!! One thing I wish you would’ve mentioned is the cost difference between products. If there’s no discernible difference in performance between a couple/three products…is there a price advantage of any?
I used rust Bullet on my plow. then top coat of Rustoleum.. Holding out fine. That Rust Bullet is tough and hard.. And the only way to get it off your skin is to wear it off. I tried multiple solvents.. No go.. Used abrasive pad and hand cleaner.. Nice review as usual!
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this video and testing out these products. I’m not overly concerned about a piece getting a 90 or 180 degree bend in it. Like you said, there would be bigger problems than adhesion. Worried more about stopping the rust and the product staying on.
I use rust bullet. Kbs never lasted for me. I put rust bullet on a car over 15 years ago, 1 coat, over rust, and it never poked through. Still have the car. And the car stayed outside until about 6 years ago. Rust bullet is all I will buy! They earned my trust!
@@zracer1099 sweet thanks. I'm selling my Tacoma this week that was fully por 15d but I'm looking to try something different, getting new vehicle this week too
Well done. I’ve had por15 peel from a couple applications. I’ve been using KBS now for a while. I have had no issues. I’m excited to try out raptor liner on my JDM truck project in the future. Thanks for the effort!!
@david beaumont - I have a 4WD 1996 Daihatsu Hijet on a cargo ship in the Pacific Ocean, due at my closest port in a few weeks. I'll be "painting" it inside and outside with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. I'll also be giving it the Surface Shield undercoating treatment every year to prevent the frame from rusting.
I have a love hate relationship with doing tests like this. I like shooting them but my channel is small enough that I can't guarantee a return in my investment for products. I have comparisons that I've shot that have taken 2 years to cover my costs for products let alone my time.
I mixed thermal beads with rust bullet and sprayed my floor, firewall, and ceiling after dry icing, wire-wheeling, and phos/prepping the surfaces. I cannot complain at all. It's all covered so the look isn't too important, it's held up well, and there is a 25f difference in the sun inside the car vs out. Couldn't be happier!
makes me feel more confident about using POR15 for my XJ's floor pans. in hindsight i would have went with your recommendation but there's no going back. thanks again for a great video
Thanks for the hard work you put in this. I dont like por 15 because of uv fading and also i find it to chip very easy. I have since switched to rust bullet.
I used chassis saver on a frame of a 1999 GMC truck that was rusty. I used a needle scaler , blew it off and coated it. I did try to take a screwdriver to it just to test adhesion and I couldn’t get it to peel at all. The reason I used chassis saver was because of the need to not really prep. It actually says it works better on rusted surfaces .
I have used POR 15 for decades, last year I used it and I had that same peeling problem with it peeling off, even with the prep I literally blew it all off with a pressure washer, peeped it again and used rust bullet and no problems. I have tried getting it replaced by POR15 with no luck. It definitely didn’t work like it did in the past.
I do wonder if they've changed the ingredients of POR15. I know its made from some nasty chemicals. So if theyve removed a certain chemical which made it work so well in the past that would make sense. I've got some tins that are almost 10 years old, still good. And I have zero complaints, it sticks to almost everything apart from nice shiny fresh steel, which it isnt meant for. So when I see comments hating on it it doesnt make sense to me. Its the most forgiving paint I've ever used on mildy rust parts (like cast nuckles, diffs etc)
Thank you so much for this. I am planning on coating an old trailer with a lot of surface rust with Raptor Liner. I was thinking of using Rust Kutter to prep first before applying the Raptor Liner after seeing your video on Rust Kutter. You mentioned in this video that you might do more videos with Raptor Liner. If one of the scenarios you try can be Rust Kutter & Raptor Liner, that would really be a big help.
I have a plan for the products that I showed here as well as the rust converters. They are going to complement each other. It's going to take me a serious amount of time to shoot that video. So you may see a gap in uploads from me. Like I said in the video, if using Raptor strip as much rust as possible. Raptor offers 3 different types of primer. If you strip down to bare metal use the acid etch. Over existing paint requires a different primer.
@@RepairGeek Any idea when this will be coming out? I've got a trailer I'm currently working on. I just went at it with the grinder today, and my Rust Kutter will arrive tomorrow. I haven't decided what finish to use though... Paint, Rhino or Raptor liner, POR, etc.
Most people don't know that POR-15 means Paint Over Rust 15th version. If there is no rust it won't stick. I sand blasted my frame used the silver base and painted the frame. Less than a year it all peeled off in huge chucks. Had to have the frame blasted again and had it powdercoated. It's now been 10 years and no peeling or other issues.
Man I think you just saved me a ton load of money. I am in the process of treating and painting my chassis for my truck for rust and I had all the products you basically said were trash in my cart. I thank you so much for these videos.
Thank you, I actually watched both parts after I sent the message. Thats actually quite a bit of work, def not going thru that. I just want the chassis to aesthetically look a bit better rather than treating the entire body for rust. Ive decided to to use the rust kutter and, kbs for the eye sore areas ( I really want something that is going to stick and adhere to the chassis) and lanolin for areas I cannot see or reach. Thanks again for the informative videos 👍🏽
One thing that needs to be mentioned about POR-15 is that it absolutely requires a top coat. They are abundantly clear about the fact it has poor UV resistance and will not survive if left exposed. That means the added expense and labor of a top coat has to be considered when comparing it. But if you're doing cavities or a floorpan, no big deal.
They aren't kidding either. I POR-15'd my 20 ft car trailer and didn't topcoat it. Within a year it was very chalky and you didn't want to sit on it or the black chalk would transfer to your clothes! I read the directions but just never got around to painting it.
It doesn’t have to be too coated. What they are very clear about, is that even though it will discolour with exposure to UV, it will still perform the same.
@@reefhog That's incorrect. It's not UV stable, meaning it degrades and flakes off without a top coat. The chalky discoloration is the first stage of it breaking down.
I am about to start on 2 different projects. The first is a car and the 2nd is a bus. I was leaning towards POR 15 for the underside and Raptor for the inside. Now I'm just going to Raptor both sides. Great video, thanks for doing these tests.
I used chassis saver before. I got it at the local parts store. It recommended on the can to use chassis saver primer. The prime was sold at the parts store as well. But I had a large can then the one your showing. I put mine on primed metal that was new. And on some rusted metal. It did a good job. Just saying.
I would bet the greater the flexibility of the coating, the less likely to suffer failure during heating/cooling cycle, as both steel and aluminum can expand and contract.
This is my method ive been doing undercarriage. Clean with phosphoric acid at 15% then epoxy primer and top epoxy coat or raptor .. best durabilitly so far.
I've used and sweared by Rust Bullet for years. It IS the best of all. They sell a black version too. POR 15 takes too much work to prep and costs more for a less stable product.
@@technicalitems731 The rust converter and seal is silver, the Black Shell can be applied over it, but I just overspray with any black paint, like Rustoleum, Krylon because I like the satin finish. You don't need to top coat though.
@@karlx-1 Nice, ill have to do this! Rust bullet silver, then any black paint over top of it. Would u consider adding PB Blaster Surface shield underneath too? to help prolong everything much longer? or no difference
I love the raptor liner, Ill be interested how it performs with rust prevention. I treat for rust and then protect with the raptor. Just did a bumper and got great results!
Thanks for the vid! My experience aligns with your results, phosphoric acid based products work "better" than others I have tried, but still not a miracle product.
I was wanting to use one of these products on a old truck frame. I fluid film all my newer vehicles. This video sealed the deal in my mind. I'm just gona fluid film the older truck frame as well. To much hassle in all the prep work, and still seems to be a possibility that the opoxy will peal. Great video 👍
Would have been nice to see you paint that with some cheap rattle can paint too and some epoxy primer. Then leave it outside for a year and do another video.
Thing is with a few of those paints they recommend using their rust reforming pre product. I’ve used almost all of those with and without pre coat and the cans directions and recommended process always works best.
This is an interesting test. Thanks for the effort and for sharing. I would just like to add one thing: Do not put these type of coatings on metal that has pitting from rust. Not without testing if it works. From my experience, the converter is not able to penetrate all the rust pores left in the pits after sanding the surface. This leads to rust reappearing over time. Surface rust, like in this test, no problem as you said. :)
Parks makes phosphoric acid by the quart . That’s what you need on steel that has all over rust. I just spray it on with an old spray bottle . In order for anything to stick long term you must remove all that surface rust and flake and the flake in particular. Wire wheels on a grinder work great then hit the pits with phosphoric acid. Sanding with flat sanders works ok too but all 3 dimensional flake or build up has to go. For scale and flake on thick steel I rap on it with a cheap air chisel using the pointed tip. I blunt the point so it doesn’t want to cut hold it loosely and LET IT BOUNCE. Far better results than using my needle scaler and uses a lot less air.
I've done my Subaru strut towers and recently fj60 chassis with Eastwood rust platinum. It's great and you can actually just paint over it. I put some type of undercoating. I personally feel any these is a good rust saver.
Great video, love to see these tests. However eastwood does have a metal prep. I called their representatives when i tried the stuff out. They said for bare metal: Sand with 320 grit, then use their clean metal prep (essentially acetone they said) then apply the eastwood rust encapsulator As for rusted and pitted metal: Use their fast etch product which has that phosphoric acid you mentioned, then use their clean metal prep (acetone) , then encapsulate it
Did they mention anything about painting over existing paint? Have a flet bed and tool box with rust spots and don't want to completely remove the paint that is still good.
I’ve heard bad things about using bed liner as an undercoating because it traps moisture and rusts metal underneath the coat. Good video though! I’ve been searching for an undercoat
My dad sprayed some of the rustoleum bedliner in the front frame of his 24 ft. Enclosed trailer and doesn't seem too be showing rust yet. Granted that he did paint it on a dry sunny summer day.
Thanks for doing this, I bought a small POR-15 kit and was concerned about the flexibility for my application. I have some surface rust on the springs of some coilovers that I want to coat. Might save the POR-15 and use the KBS or Chassis Saver (with prep) on the springs. I will definitely be getting a bottle of the Rust Kutter for when I do some bigger projects!
@@jeremyrock9305 Thinking about using POR 15 for my Tahoe. I'm in Denver and this undercoating stuff is all new to me. I don't know how you guys deal with this crap. Next time I buy a used truck I'm paying attention for rust
@@DJR5280 - I bought a used 4Runner a year ago and the frame is the first thing I looked at and probably viewed 19 rusted frames to find one that wasn't. If there is more than very mild surface corrosion, I don't bother looking at anything else. Frame corrosion is car cancer. It's disqualifying when I'm buying a used vehicle. I'll fix other stuff - cracked dash, trashed seats, a body with small dents, scratches or paint chips, but I am not doing a frame off restoration to fix a corroded frame.
Thank you very much for your work! I was thinking of doing this, but your video informs me that it’s not something I want to do. There is so much effort and expense involved for a small amount of comfort. The additional weight makes it even less appealing, because it affects both acceleration and mileage. If I see -10 dB change it would put me on the fence, -4 dB at highway speed doesn’t justify my cost and time. If I’m setting up a car with a powerful high-end audio system, then it’s worth it. Such a car wouldn’t have driving performance and fuel economy as primary concerns. Unfortunately I don’t have such a car.
Another great video! Here is something I’ve been wondering, what neutralizes the road salt and or brine? Like, is there something I could siphon into my pressure washer when I wash under my truck at the end of the winter, then when it’s fully dry, follow up with a thorough coat of that lanolin film you like so much? Also, i wonder if you and project farm would team up? Would be great for coverage for your channels. Maybe on the salt neutralizer, get all myth busters? Love what your doing for all of us.
Tested salt washes already:ua-cam.com/video/OGts4eSg8Sw/v-deo.html I personally don't see a huge advantage with them. Either way with or without them my vehicles don't rust. I would love to team up with project farm. Collaborations need to make sense for all involved. I would benefit a lot more from that sort of exposure than what he would.
@@RepairGeek wow, ok I’ll watch that. That’s a shame they don’t work, ive had it build up and look like toothpaste and not wash off. Thanks for replying!
What I've done with rust bullet is put the automotive paint on first and then put the rust bullet black shell over top and let me tell ya it is very very tough when it's done drying and it also leaves a very glossy finish with no brush marks. I used it on my 02 Toyota Tacoma and plan to do it to my 94 Toyota pickup
The best etch imo is Ospho. it just works with less coats than others for really bad rust. I think it all just phosphoric acid, smells like the same eggs to me, probably of different concentrations. In the military we used naval jelly. Follow the directions as you start using the higher concentrations. And the great news is it appears that the same stuff is sold in Home Depot and Lowes as Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep. Dont waste your money paying more for the same stuff elsewhere.
Great review. I used to use POR quite a bit and used to get it like 30 years ago at the car shows and flea markets but that stuff is crazy expensive now. I wanted to try something different and heard about Rust Bullet and tried some 3 or 4 years ago. It's OK, but like you said, it was a big disappointment to see the brush marks after it dried and even after top coating it. I'll probably use KBS as it's cheaper than POR. The big thing I don't think you mentioned is that POR is UV sensitive and will break down if not top coated. It's basically a humidity activated urethane that was developed as a paint for bridges.
Chassis Saver is a similar moisture catalyzed urethane coating. It doesn't degrade its corrosion resistance after exposed to UV, but the color does fade from black to dark gray.
@@Liberty4Ever I would try either that or the KBS but I would never get that Rust Bullet again. It was kind of expensive at $55 a qt 4 years ago. Probably OK if you used it underneath of a driver to just stop rust but I had to sand the crap out of it and still had brush marks. At least the others go on smooth. Used maybe 1/8-1/4 of the can and thought I sealed it pretty well. Opened it a month ago and the whole can was solid as a rock.
@@vincemajestyk9497 - The moisture initiated urethane coatings start curing as soon as they're exposed to the air. Sometimes you can keep half a can if you pour a quarter inch of their compatible solvent (reducer) on top of the leftover material in the can and don't stir it. You should also use a piece of Saran wrap polyethylene film between the can and the lid to prevent the stuff from permanently sealing the can.
@@Liberty4Ever Funny you mention that. I did use saran wrap over the lid and had been doing that for years. Must have not sealed. A real bummer losing that much paint, even if it wasn't that great. That's a good tip about the reducer. I think I'll do that next time. Thanks!
@@vincemajestyk9497 - I think the Saran wrap is only useful to keep the polyurethane from permanently sealing the lid to the can. Polyurethane bonds very strongly to metal. It takes very little moisture to kick off the curing reaction. If you leave the lid off the can for a few minutes in humid conditions it's enough to start the curing process and a month later you have a solid chunk of polyurethane. I know that Monstaliner recommends opening the can just long enough to dip or pour out the material you need and then seal the can immediately to protect the contents from atmospheric humidity, even if you'll be using the rest in a few hours. Pouring a thin layer of reducer on top of the polyurethane in the can will protect it from the humidity in the air that's in the can, and it can be mixed with the polyurethane to thin it the next time you use it because even a very small amount of exposure to water in the atmosphere will slowly start to thicken the polyurethane. I plan on mixing and using entire gallons, and if I need a small amount for touch ups later, I'll buy a fresh quart. It's unlikely I'll need to use the leftovers within a month, and when I need the leftovers next year, they'll be solidified in the can. I probably missed my opportunity to use bed liner to "paint" my Hijet mini truck because it's arriving from Japan three months after I purchased it and that'll be at the start of winter, so I'll buy the polyurethane bed liner when I need it in the spring and not months before.
I just applied KBS on the frame and suspension of my new 2024 Toyota 4runner. I'm curious to see if it prevents rust over the next several rustbelt winters.
Great video! I recently got my 68 Cougar back from the body shop. I've been wondering about the condition of the Cowl area since these cars are subsepticle to rust even though my body guy told me the cowl was solid. Unfortunately, I found a small leak on the driver's side and a few other pin holes. I know the ultimate fix is lower cowl replacement, which is very costly, and I think overkill for this situation. Before finding this video and some of your other great videos on the subject of rust, I initially was going to use POR15 rust treatment and POR15 patch (for the pin holes). However, after reading the instructions for the cleaner and prep, I don't think I can remove all of the chemicals out of the area before using POR15 rust treatment since it is difficult to get to. I'm wondering now if I should use something like Rust Kutter, POR15 patch and then topcoat with a good quality paint? So, would you be so kind to offer some advise?
Cuz mine is a very best rust inhibitor there is no question about it. But if not a homeowners project takes a pump that develops 5 to 6 thousand pounds of pressure. It never sets up and never gets hard it's always working and the oils in it seep in every crack and crevice. I've done it for years and always works. It takes about a third of a barrel to do one vehicle.
The difficult think with using these products is getting good coverage on the backside of panels. I am sure there are tricks and techniques for doing that. I just haven't figured them out.
Unlike most phosphoric acid-based rust remover/converter products like Rust Kutter and Ospho, POR-15 and KBS claim that their metal prep products contain zinc phosphate as opposed to just phosphoric acid. I don't know how important this is in practice when used to prep metals to be painted with these products, although zinc of course is the metal most commonly used in hot dip galvanization. But I don't believe that phosphoric acid-based rust removers/converters generally contain zinc or zinc phosphate, so it might be better to stick to metal prep products that contain the latter when applying products like POR-15 or KBS Rust Seal.
Great video, one thing you overlooked was that rust bullet automotive is not UV stable, and is intended to be overcoated. Their chassis black version is designed to be exposed. I have used Rust Bullet previously on vehicle restorations, and was curious as to how it compared to KBS that is a little cheaper. According to rust bullet, the silver isn't even supposed to be the top coat underneath the vehicle, due to reflected light.
So the black is the same product as the silver but contains uv or sunlight protection? Or is the silver better with a top coat of (what?) paint? Thanks
Based on your experience, do you think the Raptor would work well with a phosphoric acid rust converter? (I would like the sound deadening but I have some surface rust)
Would love to see these swatches that you coated hold up to UV light. As well as the respective UV Clear Coats from each Manufacturer. Maybe coat half of each with the Clear to see how much each one chalks out with time in the sun. Great Video.
I wanted to do that but unfortunately I have no way of accelerating UV exposure. The results from running that test would take me a good 6 months to get some sort of answer to.
Love those videos. You mentioned raptor does bot make primers, there is actually a 2 part anticorrossive epoxy primer. Would be great to see how it works!
The eastwood is a copy of mastercoat permenant rust sealer. The paints that have aluminum powder are far superior and far outlast the others. The black urethanes are slightly permeable to water and will peel off in sheets like you demonstrated. The mastercoat AG111 topcoat over the rust sealer is the longest lasting and most durable coating. The funny thing is POR 15 is expensive and has tons of caveats. You can't paint over, it's not UV stable, and it's not watertight.
A bedliner isn't for rust protection. It is meant to be springy to keep impacts from doing damage to the substrate below. But those little air bubbles that give shock resistance are porous and sometimes let water vapor through.
Thank you so much for your videos! This is really good information. I have an 04 mustang convertible that I have completed stripped the entire underneath of transmission, rear end, lines, etc. there is some decent rust in the rear half. (Trunk and rear bumper area). I plan to wire wheel the whole underside as best as I can. This car means a lot to me and I understand the best way to get rid of rust is to just cut it out. However for the most part I don’t believe the rust is that deep in most areas. Finally, Is there a product that you’d put as #1 for painting the entire underneath of this car? I was going to use por-15 however seeing chunks of pealing comments more frequently than not lately. Thank you so much. I don’t want to have to do all of this again haha
The POR-15 Metal Prep and perhaps some other competitors' versions supposedly has some zinc in it, which of course has anti-corrosion properties, in addition to the phosphoric acid, so it's supposed to convert remaining rust to zinc phosphate, not iron phosphate. I don't know the extent to which this is true or matters, but it's not just phosphoric acid, at least according to POR-15's description.
Glad I am a subscriber. Planning on preventing future rust on my new old Chevy which sat in a barn. My neighbor paint and body guy suggested Chassis Saver over POR 15 so I sprung for a quart and the corresponding reducer, I like to get the best bang for the buck, and checked out prices which are all comparable. While looking for Krud Cutter found Rust Cutter and the price was good. # x the phosphoric acid. Itll be my go to. Thanks! was shocked ad the way the Chassis Saver pealed away. Maybe that's why the tell you not to remove all the rust? Any thoughts about using an oil based top coat loke rustolium over Chassis Saver, if scuff sanded? T^hanks for you in depth assessment.
I just painted the floor of my 65 mustang in the Eastwood platinum. I agree the silver is a little harsh looking but I used a foam brush and didn't end up with brush marks like in your tests. Hopefully it holds up well but it's getting covered by Second Skin mats anyway so I'll never know.
I have a pretty significant automotive rust repair in my near future. I have been watching your videos, and I think I know what products and tools I need to get everything down to bare metal. Is the best move at that point to repaint it with a product like this and THEN hit it with surface shield? Or just hit it with surface shield on the bare metal? Or something else? Thanks for posting these videos. They make this project seem doable.
I know you are suppose to top coat POR 15 but I would be interesting to see the UV resistance of all of these products without a top coat. I can tell you POR 15 does not fair well after a year in the sun. I am wondering if any of the others would be better.
my friend runs a small shop and he painted the roof of his rusty old 60s model shop truck with Rust Bullet that was left over. It's been sitting in the yard uncovered for 9 years now and is just beginning to show some hints rust around the edges again (drip rails and a seam). I personally LIKE the fact that Rust Bullet goes on thin even if it doesn't flow as well as the thick almost rubbery stuff some others have. If I ever have to replace it, I did once while doing a repair, it isn't as hard to remove the RB. It wont sand for shit though. It is very hard and don't think you will use it in lieu of fill primer even for small scratches or whatever. You will still have to spray some fill.
What's best for a rusted engine block, still assembled, after a thermacure flush?? Also, have you seen/ used any Wurth rust encapsulation products?? I also like using engine block hi temp paints or hedder paints.
Por15 seems like most common ppl use, I like the results of Rust bullet, and he even says to add a top coat over top of it. If anyone going this route, what top coat would u guys add to to it? to cover it up? then can u add another coat on top of that such as PB Surface shield
Have you ever used Xion Lab 2 in 1 rust converter & metal primer it is expensive but it is awesome to use. Wold be cool if you could make a video about this product 🤗
Great video. If you are looking other products to compare, I saw a video a while back that had Mastercoat Rust Sealer as the best. And for a “spray paint” style product, Steel-it is going to be hard to beat based on the tests I’ve seen. This was the first time I’ve seen KBS tested so I may check it out. Would be neat to see long term durability, abrasion, and uv tests. Keep up the good work.
The guys put the KBS Rust Seal on their boat trailers and they are obviously submerged in salt water... Going on 15 years! And the protection is still like 98% PERFECT!!! VERY IMPRESSIVE STUFF. I would recommend applying 2 coats of the KBS Rust Seal to underneath not exposed to UV light... But if exposed to UV light I'd just do 1 coat of The KBS RUST SEAL for a Base coat and apply a coat of the KBS MAX SEAL
I truly appreciate your videos, I've actually watched all your rustproofing videos in one sitting tonight! Glad I did, didn't know Blaster made such product and it's available near me by the gallon! No other choice but to sub! Quick question, I have a 2009 Crown Vic in eastern Canada. It was owned by an elderly couple and hasn't seen a lot of snow yet and the floor pans look brand new, so I want to keep it that way. The frame has some light surface rust, so I was wondering what your thoughts were on the following. The plan was to clean the rust with a wire wheel and paint it with por15. Seeing how it peels in large patches, I'm considering a different route. Would I be better off applying por15/kbs to the bare metal and then applying raptor liner to protect coating or is one product enough? Finally, since it's just surface rust, would you skip the wirewheel part? Quick note, I only have access to raptor liner, regular asphalt undercoating (from canadian tire), por15, kbs and rustoleum up here. Thanks!
Products that I used in this video:
Paints:
- KBS: amzn.to/3EcalQA
- Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mowBk8
- Raptor Liner: amzn.to/3pgY2hB
- POR15: amzn.to/3JcO9JF
- Eastwood Platinum: amzn.to/3JbskKq
- Chassis Saver: amzn.to/3FiU4uD
- VHT Chassis Paint: amzn.to/33EvQwI
Preps:
-Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3yVaaIj
-KBS: amzn.to/3Jcp9SM
-Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mo4Act
-Raptor Acid Etch Primer: amzn.to/3qeKrXm
-POR15: amzn.to/3Ev8gzv
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
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Great videos!! One thing I wish you would’ve mentioned is the cost difference between products. If there’s no discernible difference in performance between a couple/three products…is there a price advantage of any?
@@KBSInternalVideos KBS for the win... and he missed Herculiner and Durabak... better than Raptor...
@@GotScout You are crazy if you think herculiner is better than raptor liner. Raptor liner is far better in every way but maybe cost.
I used to work at a industrial paint plant and these are all the exact same tests as I saw the lab guys do in a regular basis! Very neat!
It's almost like I know someone who works as a paint chemist 😁
@@RepairGeek are you one by chance? This is. My first time in your channel so pardon me for being blonde here haha
@@johnbaum1000 i am not. I'm formally trained as a Auto/Diesel mechanic. Thanks for watching.
I used rust Bullet on my plow. then top coat of Rustoleum.. Holding out fine. That Rust Bullet is tough and hard.. And the only way to get it off your skin is to wear it off. I tried multiple solvents.. No go.. Used abrasive pad and hand cleaner.. Nice review as usual!
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this video and testing out these products. I’m not overly concerned about a piece getting a 90 or 180 degree bend in it. Like you said, there would be bigger problems than adhesion. Worried more about stopping the rust and the product staying on.
I use rust bullet. Kbs never lasted for me. I put rust bullet on a car over 15 years ago, 1 coat, over rust, and it never poked through. Still have the car. And the car stayed outside until about 6 years ago. Rust bullet is all I will buy! They earned my trust!
What state do you live in. ? I'm in northern Ohio where we get a ton of salt every winter
@@backwoodsblake I used this stuff when I lived in Michigan and now I’m in Pa and salt is used on the roads here. This stuff holds up!
@@zracer1099 sweet thanks. I'm selling my Tacoma this week that was fully por 15d but I'm looking to try something different, getting new vehicle this week too
Well done. I’ve had por15 peel from a couple applications. I’ve been using KBS now for a while. I have had no issues.
I’m excited to try out raptor liner on my JDM truck project in the future.
Thanks for the effort!!
@david beaumont - I have a 4WD 1996 Daihatsu Hijet on a cargo ship in the Pacific Ocean, due at my closest port in a few weeks. I'll be "painting" it inside and outside with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. I'll also be giving it the Surface Shield undercoating treatment every year to prevent the frame from rusting.
as a rust bullet automotive user, it seems to work well. research said to use por15 or rust bullet and the rust bullet was definitely cheaper.
Love these tests. Thanks for the effort that goes into making this video!
I have a love hate relationship with doing tests like this. I like shooting them but my channel is small enough that I can't guarantee a return in my investment for products. I have comparisons that I've shot that have taken 2 years to cover my costs for products let alone my time.
@@RepairGeek you should start a patreon to help cover the costs. I'm assuming thats how project farm can do what he does
@@shoes121255 project farm has guaranteed views because his channel is so large. He will cover costs in 2 hours.
@@RepairGeek thanks for your financial investments! Would you ever consider doing a test with rustmort?
@@johnbaum1000 no real need to. It's between 40-60% phosphoric acid just like the others tested here.
I mixed thermal beads with rust bullet and sprayed my floor, firewall, and ceiling after dry icing, wire-wheeling, and phos/prepping the surfaces. I cannot complain at all. It's all covered so the look isn't too important, it's held up well, and there is a 25f difference in the sun inside the car vs out. Couldn't be happier!
I am interested in what you did, but just looking up "thermal beads" doesn't quite look like something you would put in paint. Can you explain?
makes me feel more confident about using POR15 for my XJ's floor pans. in hindsight i would have went with your recommendation but there's no going back. thanks again for a great video
Take my word shit can the por15 and do yourself a favor
KBS Rust kit is my Go To! Hasn't let me down yet! AND I always wire brush everything first!
Thanks for all your efforts in testing these. Five Stars!
Thanks for the hard work you put in this. I dont like por 15 because of uv fading and also i find it to chip very easy. I have since switched to rust bullet.
I used chassis saver on a frame of a 1999 GMC truck that was rusty. I used a needle scaler , blew it off and coated it. I did try to take a screwdriver to it just to test adhesion and I couldn’t get it to peel at all. The reason I used chassis saver was because of the need to not really prep. It actually says it works better on rusted surfaces .
I have used POR 15 for decades, last year I used it and I had that same peeling problem with it peeling off, even with the prep I literally blew it all off with a pressure washer, peeped it again and used rust bullet and no problems. I have tried getting it replaced by POR15 with no luck. It definitely didn’t work like it did in the past.
I do wonder if they've changed the ingredients of POR15. I know its made from some nasty chemicals. So if theyve removed a certain chemical which made it work so well in the past that would make sense. I've got some tins that are almost 10 years old, still good. And I have zero complaints, it sticks to almost everything apart from nice shiny fresh steel, which it isnt meant for. So when I see comments hating on it it doesnt make sense to me. Its the most forgiving paint I've ever used on mildy rust parts (like cast nuckles, diffs etc)
Thank you so much for this. I am planning on coating an old trailer with a lot of surface rust with Raptor Liner. I was thinking of using Rust Kutter to prep first before applying the Raptor Liner after seeing your video on Rust Kutter. You mentioned in this video that you might do more videos with Raptor Liner. If one of the scenarios you try can be Rust Kutter & Raptor Liner, that would really be a big help.
I have a plan for the products that I showed here as well as the rust converters. They are going to complement each other. It's going to take me a serious amount of time to shoot that video. So you may see a gap in uploads from me. Like I said in the video, if using Raptor strip as much rust as possible. Raptor offers 3 different types of primer. If you strip down to bare metal use the acid etch. Over existing paint requires a different primer.
@@RepairGeek Can't wait to see what you come up with
@@RepairGeek Any idea when this will be coming out? I've got a trailer I'm currently working on. I just went at it with the grinder today, and my Rust Kutter will arrive tomorrow. I haven't decided what finish to use though... Paint, Rhino or Raptor liner, POR, etc.
@@drumsxo video is up check my most recent upload.
Most people don't know that POR-15 means Paint Over Rust 15th version. If there is no rust it won't stick. I sand blasted my frame used the silver base and painted the frame. Less than a year it all peeled off in huge chucks. Had to have the frame blasted again and had it powdercoated. It's now been 10 years and no peeling or other issues.
Love my KBS Rust Seal and Max Seal products!
Man I think you just saved me a ton load of money. I am in the process of treating and painting my chassis for my truck for rust and I had all the products you basically said were trash in my cart. I thank you so much for these videos.
This may help you as well: ua-cam.com/video/EXJgCyShOCw/v-deo.html
Thank you, I actually watched both parts after I sent the message. Thats actually quite a bit of work, def not going thru that. I just want the chassis to aesthetically look a bit better rather than treating the entire body for rust. Ive decided to to use the rust kutter and, kbs for the eye sore areas ( I really want something that is going to stick and adhere to the chassis) and lanolin for areas I cannot see or reach. Thanks again for the informative videos 👍🏽
One thing that needs to be mentioned about POR-15 is that it absolutely requires a top coat. They are abundantly clear about the fact it has poor UV resistance and will not survive if left exposed. That means the added expense and labor of a top coat has to be considered when comparing it. But if you're doing cavities or a floorpan, no big deal.
They aren't kidding either. I POR-15'd my 20 ft car trailer and didn't topcoat it. Within a year it was very chalky and you didn't want to sit on it or the black chalk would transfer to your clothes! I read the directions but just never got around to painting it.
It doesn’t have to be too coated. What they are very clear about, is that even though it will discolour with exposure to UV, it will still perform the same.
@@reefhog That's incorrect. It's not UV stable, meaning it degrades and flakes off without a top coat. The chalky discoloration is the first stage of it breaking down.
@@Aidencmz It’s not incorrect. The discolouring is cosmetic. You don’t know what you’re talking about.
I am about to start on 2 different projects. The first is a car and the 2nd is a bus. I was leaning towards POR 15 for the underside and Raptor for the inside. Now I'm just going to Raptor both sides. Great video, thanks for doing these tests.
I used chassis saver before. I got it at the local parts store. It recommended on the can to use chassis saver primer. The prime was sold at the parts store as well. But I had a large can then the one your showing. I put mine on primed metal that was new. And on some rusted metal. It did a good job. Just saying.
Very nice video. Thank you. I would love to see a long term study for these products in preventing the recurrence of rust.
Home depot sells metal prep for $17 full strength a gallon .. I use it all the time .
Excellent video! Appreciate your help!
very helpful information, appreciate the time you spend on these videos
I would bet the greater the flexibility of the coating, the less likely to suffer failure during heating/cooling cycle, as both steel and aluminum can expand and contract.
This is my method ive been doing undercarriage. Clean with phosphoric acid at 15% then epoxy primer and top epoxy coat or raptor .. best durabilitly so far.
I've used and sweared by Rust Bullet for years. It IS the best of all. They sell a black version too. POR 15 takes too much work to prep and costs more for a less stable product.
Does the black version contain the aluminum particles in the paint like the silver?
@@technicalitems731 The rust converter and seal is silver, the Black Shell can be applied over it, but I just overspray with any black paint, like Rustoleum, Krylon because I like the satin finish. You don't need to top coat though.
@@karlx-1 Nice, ill have to do this! Rust bullet silver, then any black paint over top of it. Would u consider adding PB Blaster Surface shield underneath too? to help prolong everything much longer? or no difference
@@jdmdang nope. Nothing else just RB and top it with paint, undercoat, bedliner, whatever you want.
Wow! Well done as always 👍🏻
Would have loved to see miracle paint as part of this test
I love the raptor liner, Ill be interested how it performs with rust prevention. I treat for rust and then protect with the raptor. Just did a bumper and got great results!
I used Raptor liner in the bed of my 1959 Apache! Super nice results’
Thanks for the vid! My experience aligns with your results, phosphoric acid based products work "better" than others I have tried, but still not a miracle product.
Thank you for your effort . Great informative test.
I was wanting to use one of these products on a old truck frame. I fluid film all my newer vehicles. This video sealed the deal in my mind. I'm just gona fluid film the older truck frame as well. To much hassle in all the prep work, and still seems to be a possibility that the opoxy will peal. Great video 👍
Would have been nice to see you paint that with some cheap rattle can paint too and some epoxy primer. Then leave it outside for a year and do another video.
Great idea
Thing is with a few of those paints they recommend using their rust reforming pre product. I’ve used almost all of those with and without pre coat and the cans directions and recommended process always works best.
What an under appreciated video! Great job man
This is an interesting test. Thanks for the effort and for sharing. I would just like to add one thing: Do not put these type of coatings on metal that has pitting from rust. Not without testing if it works. From my experience, the converter is not able to penetrate all the rust pores left in the pits after sanding the surface. This leads to rust reappearing over time.
Surface rust, like in this test, no problem as you said. :)
Thank you for this added tip!
What about cosmoline
Parks makes phosphoric acid by the quart . That’s what you need on steel that has all over rust. I just spray it on with an old spray bottle . In order for anything to stick long term you must remove all that surface rust and flake and the flake in particular. Wire wheels on a grinder work great then hit the pits with phosphoric acid. Sanding with flat sanders works ok too but all 3 dimensional flake or build up has to go.
For scale and flake on thick steel I rap on it with a cheap air chisel using the pointed tip. I blunt the point so it doesn’t want to cut hold it loosely and LET IT BOUNCE. Far better results than using my needle scaler and uses a lot less air.
NICELY DONE, THANK YOU.
Always great test videos 👍. That surface sheild is the truth 👌
I've done my Subaru strut towers and recently fj60 chassis with Eastwood rust platinum. It's great and you can actually just paint over it. I put some type of undercoating. I personally feel any these is a good rust saver.
I’m about to do my rear strut towers on my 03 wrx wagon
wow man, new sub here now. You taught me a lot. I really appreciate your effort into this.
Great video, love to see these tests. However eastwood does have a metal prep. I called their representatives when i tried the stuff out.
They said for bare metal:
Sand with 320 grit, then use their clean metal prep (essentially acetone they said) then apply the eastwood rust encapsulator
As for rusted and pitted metal:
Use their fast etch product which has that phosphoric acid you mentioned, then use their clean metal prep (acetone) , then encapsulate it
Did they mention anything about painting over existing paint? Have a flet bed and tool box with rust spots and don't want to completely remove the paint that is still good.
I’ve heard bad things about using bed liner as an undercoating because it traps moisture and rusts metal underneath the coat. Good video though! I’ve been searching for an undercoat
ua-cam.com/play/PLiBj_svGZOHO1UeoA3TeAQMzW5tsz6ujB.html
My dad sprayed some of the rustoleum bedliner in the front frame of his 24 ft. Enclosed trailer and doesn't seem too be showing rust yet. Granted that he did paint it on a dry sunny summer day.
The only real test I would like to see - how does these pieces of metal look after 1-2 years left outside.
Rustbullet can be sprayed or rolled on, if you are concerned with brush marks. Or use rustbullet blackshell over it.
Great test. I love this stuff. Thanks for making videos like this.
Thanks for doing this, I bought a small POR-15 kit and was concerned about the flexibility for my application. I have some surface rust on the springs of some coilovers that I want to coat. Might save the POR-15 and use the KBS or Chassis Saver (with prep) on the springs. I will definitely be getting a bottle of the Rust Kutter for when I do some bigger projects!
Unless you live out west por 15 doesn’t hold up lasted 3 years in the northeast
@@jeremyrock9305 Thinking about using POR 15 for my Tahoe. I'm in Denver and this undercoating stuff is all new to me. I don't know how you guys deal with this crap. Next time I buy a used truck I'm paying attention for rust
@@DJR5280 - I bought a used 4Runner a year ago and the frame is the first thing I looked at and probably viewed 19 rusted frames to find one that wasn't. If there is more than very mild surface corrosion, I don't bother looking at anything else. Frame corrosion is car cancer. It's disqualifying when I'm buying a used vehicle. I'll fix other stuff - cracked dash, trashed seats, a body with small dents, scratches or paint chips, but I am not doing a frame off restoration to fix a corroded frame.
Thank you very much for your work! I was thinking of doing this, but your video informs me that it’s not something I want to do. There is so much effort and expense involved for a small amount of comfort. The additional weight makes it even less appealing, because it affects both acceleration and mileage. If I see -10 dB change it would put me on the fence, -4 dB at highway speed doesn’t justify my cost and time.
If I’m setting up a car with a powerful high-end audio system, then it’s worth it. Such a car wouldn’t have driving performance and fuel economy as primary concerns. Unfortunately I don’t have such a car.
Great test just did rusty springs for an old bmw with por. So far so good.
f por
Long term what’s best undercarriage? And floor panels?
Another great video! Here is something I’ve been wondering, what neutralizes the road salt and or brine? Like, is there something I could siphon into my pressure washer when I wash under my truck at the end of the winter, then when it’s fully dry, follow up with a thorough coat of that lanolin film you like so much? Also, i wonder if you and project farm would team up? Would be great for coverage for your channels. Maybe on the salt neutralizer, get all myth busters? Love what your doing for all of us.
Tested salt washes already:ua-cam.com/video/OGts4eSg8Sw/v-deo.html I personally don't see a huge advantage with them. Either way with or without them my vehicles don't rust.
I would love to team up with project farm. Collaborations need to make sense for all involved. I would benefit a lot more from that sort of exposure than what he would.
@@RepairGeek wow, ok I’ll watch that. That’s a shame they don’t work, ive had it build up and look like toothpaste and not wash off. Thanks for replying!
I don't like that POR needs to be topcoat for UV resistance. Do most of the products listed require this?
What I've done with rust bullet is put the automotive paint on first and then put the rust bullet black shell over top and let me tell ya it is very very tough when it's done drying and it also leaves a very glossy finish with no brush marks. I used it on my 02 Toyota Tacoma and plan to do it to my 94 Toyota pickup
Rust bullet top coated with raptor liner 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
The best etch imo is Ospho. it just works with less coats than others for really bad rust. I think it all just phosphoric acid, smells like the same eggs to me, probably of different concentrations. In the military we used naval jelly. Follow the directions as you start using the higher concentrations. And the great news is it appears that the same stuff is sold in Home Depot and Lowes as Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep. Dont waste your money paying more for the same stuff elsewhere.
rust bullet does make an automotive sprayable version, and i think you can get it in black. you can also paint over it.
Thanks...I'm going to primer my van with Rust Bullet .
Maybe city camo ?
Good video, so im thinking for underneath clean/grind, metal prep, rust bullet then raptor liner. Should be a pretty strong mix.
Great review. I used to use POR quite a bit and used to get it like 30 years ago at the car shows and flea markets but that stuff is crazy expensive now. I wanted to try something different and heard about Rust Bullet and tried some 3 or 4 years ago. It's OK, but like you said, it was a big disappointment to see the brush marks after it dried and even after top coating it. I'll probably use KBS as it's cheaper than POR. The big thing I don't think you mentioned is that POR is UV sensitive and will break down if not top coated. It's basically a humidity activated urethane that was developed as a paint for bridges.
Chassis Saver is a similar moisture catalyzed urethane coating. It doesn't degrade its corrosion resistance after exposed to UV, but the color does fade from black to dark gray.
@@Liberty4Ever I would try either that or the KBS but I would never get that Rust Bullet again. It was kind of expensive at $55 a qt 4 years ago. Probably OK if you used it underneath of a driver to just stop rust but I had to sand the crap out of it and still had brush marks. At least the others go on smooth. Used maybe 1/8-1/4 of the can and thought I sealed it pretty well. Opened it a month ago and the whole can was solid as a rock.
@@vincemajestyk9497 - The moisture initiated urethane coatings start curing as soon as they're exposed to the air. Sometimes you can keep half a can if you pour a quarter inch of their compatible solvent (reducer) on top of the leftover material in the can and don't stir it. You should also use a piece of Saran wrap polyethylene film between the can and the lid to prevent the stuff from permanently sealing the can.
@@Liberty4Ever Funny you mention that. I did use saran wrap over the lid and had been doing that for years. Must have not sealed. A real bummer losing that much paint, even if it wasn't that great. That's a good tip about the reducer. I think I'll do that next time. Thanks!
@@vincemajestyk9497 - I think the Saran wrap is only useful to keep the polyurethane from permanently sealing the lid to the can. Polyurethane bonds very strongly to metal. It takes very little moisture to kick off the curing reaction. If you leave the lid off the can for a few minutes in humid conditions it's enough to start the curing process and a month later you have a solid chunk of polyurethane. I know that Monstaliner recommends opening the can just long enough to dip or pour out the material you need and then seal the can immediately to protect the contents from atmospheric humidity, even if you'll be using the rest in a few hours. Pouring a thin layer of reducer on top of the polyurethane in the can will protect it from the humidity in the air that's in the can, and it can be mixed with the polyurethane to thin it the next time you use it because even a very small amount of exposure to water in the atmosphere will slowly start to thicken the polyurethane. I plan on mixing and using entire gallons, and if I need a small amount for touch ups later, I'll buy a fresh quart. It's unlikely I'll need to use the leftovers within a month, and when I need the leftovers next year, they'll be solidified in the can. I probably missed my opportunity to use bed liner to "paint" my Hijet mini truck because it's arriving from Japan three months after I purchased it and that'll be at the start of winter, so I'll buy the polyurethane bed liner when I need it in the spring and not months before.
I just applied KBS on the frame and suspension of my new 2024 Toyota 4runner. I'm curious to see if it prevents rust over the next several rustbelt winters.
blistering at the welds ??
@@efil4kizum Welds are where to focus, that is always where the rust starts.
@@timalan7406 did you scuff sand that factory coating at all before application?
@@efil4kizum Yes, I used red Scotch-Brite.
Great video! I recently got my 68 Cougar back from the body shop. I've been wondering about the condition of the Cowl area since these cars are subsepticle to rust even though my body guy told me the cowl was solid. Unfortunately, I found a small leak on the driver's side and a few other pin holes. I know the ultimate fix is lower cowl replacement, which is very costly, and I think overkill for this situation. Before finding this video and some of your other great videos on the subject of rust, I initially was going to use POR15 rust treatment and POR15 patch (for the pin holes). However, after reading the instructions for the cleaner and prep, I don't think I can remove all of the chemicals out of the area before using POR15 rust treatment since it is difficult to get to. I'm wondering now if I should use something like Rust Kutter, POR15 patch and then topcoat with a good quality paint? So, would you be so kind to offer some advise?
Cuz mine is a very best rust inhibitor there is no question about it. But if not a homeowners project takes a pump that develops 5 to 6 thousand pounds of pressure. It never sets up and never gets hard it's always working and the oils in it seep in every crack and crevice. I've done it for years and always works. It takes about a third of a barrel to do one vehicle.
I too have seen the problem of POR15 peeling off in large sheets.
The difficult think with using these products is getting good coverage on the backside of panels.
I am sure there are tricks and techniques for doing that. I just haven't figured them out.
Unlike most phosphoric acid-based rust remover/converter products like Rust Kutter and Ospho, POR-15 and KBS claim that their metal prep products contain zinc phosphate as opposed to just phosphoric acid.
I don't know how important this is in practice when used to prep metals to be painted with these products, although zinc of course is the metal most commonly used in hot dip galvanization.
But I don't believe that phosphoric acid-based rust removers/converters generally contain zinc or zinc phosphate, so it might be better to stick to metal prep products that contain the latter when applying products like POR-15 or KBS Rust Seal.
I believe you did not put enough rust bullet on.. when you do it becomes very Smooth it’s the best product on the market!!
Great video, one thing you overlooked was that rust bullet automotive is not UV stable, and is intended to be overcoated. Their chassis black version is designed to be exposed. I have used Rust Bullet previously on vehicle restorations, and was curious as to how it compared to KBS that is a little cheaper. According to rust bullet, the silver isn't even supposed to be the top coat underneath the vehicle, due to reflected light.
So the black is the same product as the silver but contains uv or sunlight protection? Or is the silver better with a top coat of (what?) paint? Thanks
Based on your experience, do you think the Raptor would work well with a phosphoric acid rust converter? (I would like the sound deadening but I have some surface rust)
Nice review, thanks for the video.
Lowes sells a gallon of 30% phosphoric acid for $15
Would love to see these swatches that you coated hold up to UV light. As well as the respective UV Clear Coats from each Manufacturer. Maybe coat half of each with the Clear to see how much each one chalks out with time in the sun. Great Video.
I wanted to do that but unfortunately I have no way of accelerating UV exposure. The results from running that test would take me a good 6 months to get some sort of answer to.
Love those videos.
You mentioned raptor does bot make primers, there is actually a 2 part anticorrossive epoxy primer. Would be great to see how it works!
The eastwood is a copy of mastercoat permenant rust sealer. The paints that have aluminum powder are far superior and far outlast the others. The black urethanes are slightly permeable to water and will peel off in sheets like you demonstrated.
The mastercoat AG111 topcoat over the rust sealer is the longest lasting and most durable coating.
The funny thing is POR 15 is expensive and has tons of caveats. You can't paint over, it's not UV stable, and it's not watertight.
Exactly my experience. Peeling off in sheets by POR and Raptor. I've never seen or tried the other.
A bedliner isn't for rust protection. It is meant to be springy to keep impacts from doing damage to the substrate below. But those little air bubbles that give shock resistance are porous and sometimes let water vapor through.
One product worth a test would be Hirsch Miracle Paint.
The only thing I would recommend is that you show the actual testing as you're doing it. Similar to Project Farm.
Can you test Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint? I used that on an old f350 with little prep it lasted. It would be great to see what you think.
Thanks a lot 🤙
Thank you so much for your videos! This is really good information. I have an 04 mustang convertible that I have completed stripped the entire underneath of transmission, rear end, lines, etc. there is some decent rust in the rear half. (Trunk and rear bumper area). I plan to wire wheel the whole underside as best as I can. This car means a lot to me and I understand the best way to get rid of rust is to just cut it out. However for the most part I don’t believe the rust is that deep in most areas. Finally, Is there a product that you’d put as #1 for painting the entire underneath of this car? I was going to use por-15 however seeing chunks of pealing comments more frequently than not lately. Thank you so much. I don’t want to have to do all of this again haha
The POR-15 Metal Prep and perhaps some other competitors' versions supposedly has some zinc in it, which of course has anti-corrosion properties, in addition to the phosphoric acid, so it's supposed to convert remaining rust to zinc phosphate, not iron phosphate. I don't know the extent to which this is true or matters, but it's not just phosphoric acid, at least according to POR-15's description.
It certainly has zinc in it, it leaves a nice pearl effect on fresh steel (blue colours), check my rust repair video at 45:58
Seems that Raptor over a rust converter prepped surface is the way to go. Sound dampening and significant abrasion resistance? Sounds like a win-win.
Rust Converter or Encapsulator?
Glad I am a subscriber. Planning on preventing future rust on my new old Chevy which sat in a barn. My neighbor paint and body guy suggested Chassis Saver over POR 15 so I sprung for a quart and the corresponding reducer, I like to get the best bang for the buck, and checked out prices which are all comparable. While looking for Krud Cutter found Rust Cutter and the price was good. # x the phosphoric acid. Itll be my go to. Thanks! was shocked ad the way the Chassis Saver pealed away. Maybe that's why the tell you not to remove all the rust? Any thoughts about using an oil based top coat loke rustolium over Chassis Saver, if scuff sanded? T^hanks for you in depth assessment.
I just painted the floor of my 65 mustang in the Eastwood platinum. I agree the silver is a little harsh looking but I used a foam brush and didn't end up with brush marks like in your tests. Hopefully it holds up well but it's getting covered by Second Skin mats anyway so I'll never know.
How has it held up?
It’s under the carpet so I can’t really say
Thank you.
I have a pretty significant automotive rust repair in my near future. I have been watching your videos, and I think I know what products and tools I need to get everything down to bare metal. Is the best move at that point to repaint it with a product like this and THEN hit it with surface shield? Or just hit it with surface shield on the bare metal? Or something else? Thanks for posting these videos. They make this project seem doable.
Amazing thank you
Would it make a difference if I use an encapulator vs Suface shield? Can I use both? Which one should I use first?
I know you are suppose to top coat POR 15 but I would be interesting to see the UV resistance of all of these products without a top coat. I can tell you POR 15 does not fair well after a year in the sun. I am wondering if any of the others would be better.
I wanted to do that test but unfortunately I have no way of accelerating UV exposure.
my friend runs a small shop and he painted the roof of his rusty old 60s model shop truck with Rust Bullet that was left over. It's been sitting in the yard uncovered for 9 years now and is just beginning to show some hints rust around the edges again (drip rails and a seam). I personally LIKE the fact that Rust Bullet goes on thin even if it doesn't flow as well as the thick almost rubbery stuff some others have. If I ever have to replace it, I did once while doing a repair, it isn't as hard to remove the RB. It wont sand for shit though. It is very hard and don't think you will use it in lieu of fill primer even for small scratches or whatever. You will still have to spray some fill.
I had heard from somewhere that Eastwood was rebranded rust bullet? I take it you see a difference? Love the video content. Subscribed.
Where's the Flex Seal... I've seen the ads..... It has to be the savior for rust... LOL
What's best for a rusted engine block, still assembled, after a thermacure flush??
Also, have you seen/ used any Wurth rust encapsulation products??
I also like using engine block hi temp paints or hedder paints.
Por15 seems like most common ppl use, I like the results of Rust bullet, and he even says to add a top coat over top of it.
If anyone going this route, what top coat would u guys add to to it? to cover it up? then can u add another coat on top of that such as PB Surface shield
Have you ever used Xion Lab 2 in 1 rust converter & metal primer it is expensive but it is awesome to use. Wold be cool if you could make a video about this product 🤗
Great video! Thanks :)
Great video. If you are looking other products to compare, I saw a video a while back that had Mastercoat Rust Sealer as the best. And for a “spray paint” style product, Steel-it is going to be hard to beat based on the tests I’ve seen. This was the first time I’ve seen KBS tested so I may check it out. Would be neat to see long term durability, abrasion, and uv tests. Keep up the good work.
I don't know about the others, but POR-15 is not UV-resistant. It will quickly fade if exposed.
The guys put the KBS Rust Seal on their boat trailers and they are obviously submerged in salt water... Going on 15 years! And the protection is still like 98% PERFECT!!! VERY IMPRESSIVE STUFF.
I would recommend applying 2 coats of the KBS Rust Seal to underneath not exposed to UV light...
But if exposed to UV light I'd just do 1 coat of The KBS RUST SEAL for a Base coat and apply a coat of the KBS MAX SEAL
And the Krud Kutter outperformed the Rust Kutter... It finished 1st... Project Farm channel did the testing some years back
I truly appreciate your videos, I've actually watched all your rustproofing videos in one sitting tonight! Glad I did, didn't know Blaster made such product and it's available near me by the gallon! No other choice but to sub!
Quick question, I have a 2009 Crown Vic in eastern Canada. It was owned by an elderly couple and hasn't seen a lot of snow yet and the floor pans look brand new, so I want to keep it that way. The frame has some light surface rust, so I was wondering what your thoughts were on the following. The plan was to clean the rust with a wire wheel and paint it with por15. Seeing how it peels in large patches, I'm considering a different route. Would I be better off applying por15/kbs to the bare metal and then applying raptor liner to protect coating or is one product enough? Finally, since it's just surface rust, would you skip the wirewheel part?
Quick note, I only have access to raptor liner, regular asphalt undercoating (from canadian tire), por15, kbs and rustoleum up here. Thanks!
I have a metal spiral staircase that was primed from the factory but never painted. Lots of surface rust. Which product/procedure would you recommend
I like fluid film and woolwax the best
Guaranteed not ot flake or peel. And you won't get POR on any internal surface.
I dream of a galvanized chassis covered in black cosmoline. The vehicle frame would last forever